EP1631163B1 - Method for setting a stone in a metal element - Google Patents

Method for setting a stone in a metal element Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1631163B1
EP1631163B1 EP04767285A EP04767285A EP1631163B1 EP 1631163 B1 EP1631163 B1 EP 1631163B1 EP 04767285 A EP04767285 A EP 04767285A EP 04767285 A EP04767285 A EP 04767285A EP 1631163 B1 EP1631163 B1 EP 1631163B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
stone
tool
stones
metal
metal part
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Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
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EP04767285A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP1631163A2 (en
Inventor
Pierre Espinosa
Grigor Topalian
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Lyon Serti
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Lyon Serti
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Publication of EP1631163A2 publication Critical patent/EP1631163A2/en
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Publication of EP1631163B1 publication Critical patent/EP1631163B1/en
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
Expired - Lifetime legal-status Critical Current

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A44—HABERDASHERY; JEWELLERY
    • A44C—PERSONAL ADORNMENTS, e.g. JEWELLERY; COINS
    • A44C17/00—Gems or the like
    • A44C17/04—Setting gems in jewellery; Setting-tools
    • A44C17/043—Setting-tools

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of crimping a stone in a metal element.
  • Another disadvantage of this method is that it allows crimping stones only on elements of metals such as gold or silver that is to say metals with a certain ductility.
  • Another disadvantage of current crimping process is that, in the case of paving, that is to say, a multitude of stones crimped next to each other on the surface of a jewel or a watch, the zone of metal which is delimited by the stones constitutes an area which appears as dark and does not contribute to emphasize the stones.
  • An object of the invention is therefore to provide a method for crimping stones in a piece of hard metal, such as for example titanium.
  • Another object of the invention is to provide a crimping process for enhancing crimped stones.
  • this method of crimping stones in a piece of metal is in accordance with claim 1.
  • the method according to the invention thus makes it possible to crimp parts on an extremely hard metal thanks to the perpendicular action of a tool to deform the metal and form a lip.
  • the impression forming a lip and the multitude of impressions made with the tool between the stones have several convergent facets to a point capable of reflecting light, which gives the crimp according to the invention an additional visual appeal.
  • the application of the tool is done manually.
  • the application of the tool is done mechanically.
  • the invention also relates to a product according to claim 4.
  • the surface of the metal part delimited by several stones is in its entirety imprinted impressions.
  • FIGS 1 to 3 represent the different stages of implementation of this process
  • Figure 4 represents, in a view from above, a product obtained by this process
  • Figures 5 to 8 show several possible embodiments of tool for implementing the method according to the invention, the tool of Figures 5 to 8 not part of the invention.
  • the figure 1 shows, in section, a piece of metal 1 having a hole 2 as is well known in crimping techniques.
  • This hole 2 comprises, on the side of the surface of the metal piece 1, a conical seat 3 and a cylindrical portion 3. It may be noted that the conical seat 3 on which a stone will rest is at a very close distance from the surface of the metal part 1, this distance may be from 0.1 to 0.2 millimeters.
  • the figure 2 represents the stone 5 placed in the hole 2 before the crimping step has begun. We can see on the figure 2 the approach of a tool 6 in a direction perpendicular to the surface of the metal part 1.
  • the tool applied to the surface of the metal part 1 can be seen.
  • the material is pushed back on either side of the tip of the tool 6 and the constituent material the piece of metal 1 is moved to form a lip 8 on the laminate 9 of the stone 5 previously inserted into the hole.
  • This lip 8 thus makes it possible to immobilize the stone 5 in its hole.
  • the next step of the method consists in forming, with the tool 6, new impressions 11 on the surface of the metal part 1, delimited by the stones 5.
  • these imprints 11 have facets, in this case four facets.
  • the footprints 11 located adjacent to the stones retain them, the other footprints 11 having the function of returning the light.
  • FIGS 5 to 8 represent several possible forms of the tool. However, all these forms have in common the characteristic that the end of the tool consists of a tip 12 at its end. This tip 12 applied perpendicularly to the surface of the metal makes it possible to push the metal even the hardest to form a lip 8.
  • the figure 5 represents a tool whose end is pyramidal, which is not part of the invention.
  • the figure 6 represents a tool whose end is tetrahedral, which is not part of the invention.
  • the figure 7 represents a tool whose end is conical, which is not part of the invention.
  • figure 8 represents a tool whose end has four facets, which is not part of the invention.
  • the process thus described has many advantages. It makes it possible to crimp stones on an extremely hard metal, such as titanium, since the tool which is used to deform the metal and to constitute a lip resting on the laminate of the stone, acts perpendicular to the surface of the metal. piece of metal intended to receive the stones.
  • the fact that the tool has an end that will give the impression a smooth surface allows an additional effect insofar as the footprint that ensures the retention of the stone also performs a reflection of light.
  • Another advantage of the method according to the invention lies in the fact that it can crimp stones on an inner surface or a left surface.
  • the surface crimped by the process according to the invention has a continuous appearance which makes crimped stones appear as aligned in rows and columns.

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  • Adornments (AREA)
  • Processing Of Stones Or Stones Resemblance Materials (AREA)
  • Physical Vapour Deposition (AREA)
  • Ceramic Products (AREA)
  • Die Bonding (AREA)
  • Inorganic Insulating Materials (AREA)

Abstract

The method involves drilling holes (2) in a metal piece (1) and placing a stone (5) in each hole. A tool (6) is applied perpendicular to a surface of the piece and proximate to a periphery of the hole for forcing a rim (8) of the piece on a girdle (9) of the stone. An impression comprising a facet is printed on surface of the piece, where the facet reflects light and the surface is defined between adjoining stones. Independent claims are also included for the following: (a) a tool implementing a stone setting method (b) a product such as jewel or clock piece comprising a metal piece.

Description

La présente invention concerne un procédé de sertissage d'une pierre dans un élément de métal.The present invention relates to a method of crimping a stone in a metal element.

Dans le domaine de la bijouterie et de l'horlogerie, il est bien connu de sertir des pierres précieuses sur un élément de métal.In the field of jewelery and watchmaking, it is well known to crimp precious stones on a metal element.

Selon un procédé classique, un opérateur vient appliquer une onglette, de manière oblique, à la surface d'une pièce de métal pour le déformer. En agissant de la sorte, le métal se déforme pour former un collet qui vient recouvrir la périphérie de la pierre et immobilise celle-ci sur l'élément de métal. Ce procédé est notamment décrit dans les documents EP 1 048 241 et US 3 548 471 .According to a conventional method, an operator comes to apply a tab, obliquely, to the surface of a piece of metal to deform. By acting in this way, the metal deforms to form a collar that covers the periphery of the stone and immobilizes it on the metal element. This process is described in particular in the documents EP 1 048 241 and US 3,548,471 .

Ce procédé est satisfaisant à ceci près que la déformation du métal peut se traduire par la formation de bavures qui nuisent au caractère de lissé du bijou ainsi obtenu.This method is satisfactory except that the deformation of the metal can result in the formation of burrs that interfere with the smoothing character of the jewel thus obtained.

Un autre inconvénient de ce procédé est qu'il ne permet de sertir des pierres que sur des éléments de métaux tels que l'or ou l'argent c'est-à-dire des métaux présentant une certaine ductilité.Another disadvantage of this method is that it allows crimping stones only on elements of metals such as gold or silver that is to say metals with a certain ductility.

En effet, lorsqu'il s'agit d'appliquer ce procédé à des métaux durs, tel que du titane, on constate que l'action de l'onglette agissant obliquement par rapport à la surface de la pièce de métal ne permet pas de un collet car le métal se casse en formant un copeau. Les documents US 4 648 248 et US755 654 décrivent des procédés de sertissage de pierres sur une pièce dans lesquels on applique un outil perpendiculairement à la pièce.Indeed, when it comes to applying this process to hard metals, such as titanium, it is found that the action of the nail acting obliquely to the surface of the metal part does not allow a collar because the metal breaks in a chip. The documents US 4,648,248 and US755 654 describe methods of crimping stones on a workpiece in which a tool is applied perpendicularly to the workpiece.

Un autre inconvénient de procédé de sertissage actuel tient au fait que, dans le cas de pavage, c'est-à-dire de multitude de pierres serties les unes à côté des autres sur la surface d'un bijou ou d'une montre, la zone de métal qui est délimitée par les pierres constitue une zone qui apparaît comme sombre et ne contribue pas à mettre en valeur les pierres.Another disadvantage of current crimping process is that, in the case of paving, that is to say, a multitude of stones crimped next to each other on the surface of a jewel or a watch, the zone of metal which is delimited by the stones constitutes an area which appears as dark and does not contribute to emphasize the stones.

Un but de l'invention est donc de proposer un procédé permettant de sertir des pierres dans une pièce de métal dur, tel que par exemple du titane.An object of the invention is therefore to provide a method for crimping stones in a piece of hard metal, such as for example titanium.

Un autre but de l'invention est de proposer un procédé de sertissage permettant de valoriser les pierres serties.Another object of the invention is to provide a crimping process for enhancing crimped stones.

Selon l'invention, ce procédé de sertissage de pierres dans une pièce de métal est conforme à la revendication 1.According to the invention, this method of crimping stones in a piece of metal is in accordance with claim 1.

Le procédé selon l'invention permet donc de sertir des pièces sur un métal extrêmement dur grâce à l'action perpendiculaire d'un outil pour déformer le métal et former une lèvre. De plus, l'empreinte formant une lèvre et la multitude d'empreintes réalisées avec l'outil entre les pierres présentent plusieurs facettes convergentes vers une pointe susceptibles de réfléchir la lumière, ce qui confère au sertissage selon l'invention un attrait visuel supplémentaire.The method according to the invention thus makes it possible to crimp parts on an extremely hard metal thanks to the perpendicular action of a tool to deform the metal and form a lip. In addition, the impression forming a lip and the multitude of impressions made with the tool between the stones have several convergent facets to a point capable of reflecting light, which gives the crimp according to the invention an additional visual appeal.

Selon une possibilité, l'application de l'outil se fait manuellement.According to one possibility, the application of the tool is done manually.

Selon une autre possibilité, l'application de l'outil se fait mécaniquement.According to another possibility, the application of the tool is done mechanically.

L'invention concerne également un produit conforme à la revendication 4.The invention also relates to a product according to claim 4.

De préférence, la surface de la pièce de métal délimitée par plusieurs pierres est dans sa totalité imprimée d'empreintes.Preferably, the surface of the metal part delimited by several stones is in its entirety imprinted impressions.

Pour sa bonne compréhension, l'invention est décrite en référence au dessin ci annexé représentant, à titre d'exemple non limitatif, une possibilité de mise en oeuvre du procédé selon l'invention.For a good understanding, the invention is described with reference to the accompanying drawing showing, by way of non-limiting example, a possibility of implementing the method according to the invention.

Figures 1 à 3 représentent les différentes étapes de mise en ouvre de ce procédé, Figures 1 to 3 represent the different stages of implementation of this process,

Figure 4 représente, en vue de dessus, un produit obtenu par ce procédé, Figure 4 represents, in a view from above, a product obtained by this process,

Figures 5 à 8 montrent plusieurs formes de réalisation possibles d'outil permettant de mettre en oeuvre le procédé selon l'invention, l'outil des figures 5 à 8 ne faisant pas partie de l'invention. Figures 5 to 8 show several possible embodiments of tool for implementing the method according to the invention, the tool of Figures 5 to 8 not part of the invention.

La figure 1 montre, en coupe, une pièce de métal 1 présentant un trou 2 comme cela est bien connu dans les techniques de sertissage. Ce trou 2 comprend, du côté de la surface de la pièce de métal 1, une assise conique 3 et une partie cylindrique 3. On peut noter que l'assise conique 3 sur laquelle une pierre va reposer se situe à une distance très proche de la surface de la pièce de métal 1, cette distance pouvant être de 0, 1 à 0,2 millimètre.The figure 1 shows, in section, a piece of metal 1 having a hole 2 as is well known in crimping techniques. This hole 2 comprises, on the side of the surface of the metal piece 1, a conical seat 3 and a cylindrical portion 3. It may be noted that the conical seat 3 on which a stone will rest is at a very close distance from the surface of the metal part 1, this distance may be from 0.1 to 0.2 millimeters.

. La figure 2 représente la pierre 5 mise en place dans le trou 2 avant que l'étape de sertissage n'ait débuté. On peut voir sur la figure 2 l'approche d'un outil 6 dans une direction perpendiculaire à la surface de la pièce de métal 1.. The figure 2 represents the stone 5 placed in the hole 2 before the crimping step has begun. We can see on the figure 2 the approach of a tool 6 in a direction perpendicular to the surface of the metal part 1.

En se reportant à la figure 3, on peut voir l'outil appliqué sur la surface de la pièce de métal 1. Au cours de cette application de l'outil, la matière est repoussée de part et d'autre de la pointe de l'outil 6 et la matière constituant la pièce de métal 1 est donc déplacée pour former une lèvre 8 sur le feuilletis 9 de la pierre 5 préalablement inséré dans le trou. Cette lèvre 8 permet donc d'immobiliser la pierre 5 dans son trou.Referring to the figure 3 the tool applied to the surface of the metal part 1 can be seen. During this application of the tool, the material is pushed back on either side of the tip of the tool 6 and the constituent material the piece of metal 1 is moved to form a lip 8 on the laminate 9 of the stone 5 previously inserted into the hole. This lip 8 thus makes it possible to immobilize the stone 5 in its hole.

L'étape suivante du procédé consiste à former, avec l'outil 6, de nouvelles empreintes 11 sur la surface de la pièce de métal 1, délimitée par les pierres 5.The next step of the method consists in forming, with the tool 6, new impressions 11 on the surface of the metal part 1, delimited by the stones 5.

Lorsque l'on se réfère à la figure 4, on peut voir la multitude d'empreintes 11 réalisées sur les surfaces inter pierres. Dans l'exemple de réalisation représenté, ces empreintes 11 présentent des facettes, en l'occurrence quatre facettes. Les empreintes 11 situées de manière adjacente aux pierres permettent de retenir celles-ci, les autres empreintes 11 ayant pour fonction de renvoyer la lumière.When referring to the figure 4 , one can see the multitude of footprints 11 made on the surfaces between stones. In the exemplary embodiment shown, these imprints 11 have facets, in this case four facets. The footprints 11 located adjacent to the stones retain them, the other footprints 11 having the function of returning the light.

Les figures 5 à 8 représentent plusieurs formes possibles de l'outil. Ces formes ont toutefois toutes comme point commun la caractéristique selon laquelle l'extrémité de l'outil est constituée d'une pointe 12 à son extrémité. Cette pointe 12 appliquée perpendiculairement à la surface du métal permet de repousser le métal même le plus dur pour former une lèvre 8.The Figures 5 to 8 represent several possible forms of the tool. However, all these forms have in common the characteristic that the end of the tool consists of a tip 12 at its end. This tip 12 applied perpendicularly to the surface of the metal makes it possible to push the metal even the hardest to form a lip 8.

La figure 5 représente un outil dont l'extrémité est pyramidale, ce qui ne fait pas partie de l'invention.The figure 5 represents a tool whose end is pyramidal, which is not part of the invention.

La figure 6 représente un outil dont l'extrémité est tétraédrique, ce qui ne fait pas partie de l'invention.The figure 6 represents a tool whose end is tetrahedral, which is not part of the invention.

La figure 7 représente un outil dont l'extrémité est conique, ce qui ne fait pas partie de l'invention.The figure 7 represents a tool whose end is conical, which is not part of the invention.

Et la figure 8 représente un outil dont l'extrémité présente quatre facettes, ce qui ne fait pas partie de l'invention.And the figure 8 represents a tool whose end has four facets, which is not part of the invention.

Le procédé, ainsi décrit, présente de nombreux avantages. II permet de sertir des pierres sur un métal extrêmement dur, tel que du titane, puisque l'outil qui est utilisé pour déformer le métal et pour constituer une lèvre venant en appui sur le feuilletis de la pierre, agit perpendiculairement à la surface de la pièce de métal destinée à recevoir les pierres.The process thus described has many advantages. It makes it possible to crimp stones on an extremely hard metal, such as titanium, since the tool which is used to deform the metal and to constitute a lip resting on the laminate of the stone, acts perpendicular to the surface of the metal. piece of metal intended to receive the stones.

En outre, le fait que l'outil présente une extrémité qui va conférer à l'empreinte une surface lisse permet un effet supplémentaire dans la mesure où l'empreinte qui assure la retenue de la pierre réalise également une réflexion de la lumière.In addition, the fact that the tool has an end that will give the impression a smooth surface allows an additional effect insofar as the footprint that ensures the retention of the stone also performs a reflection of light.

En multipliant les empreintes de ce type entre les pierres, il est ainsi créé une zone réfléchissante entre les pierres qui valorisent la luminosité de ces dernières. La zone sombre qui existe dans le cas du pavage réalisé selon les techniques classiques, grâce à l'invention disparaît au profit d'une zone réfléchissant la lumière.By multiplying the footprints of this type between the stones, it is thus created a reflective zone between the stones that enhance the brightness of the latter. The dark zone that exists in the case of paving carried out according to conventional techniques, thanks to the invention disappears in favor of a light reflecting zone.

Enfin, l'action de l'outil ne produit pas de bavure de telle sorte que le bijou ou la pièce d'horlogerie sertie de cette manière présente une grande douceur.Finally, the action of the tool does not produce a burr so that the jewel or the timepiece set in this way has a great softness.

Un autre avantage du procédé selon l'invention réside dans le fait qu'il permet de sertir des pierres sur une surface intérieure ou une surface gauche.Another advantage of the method according to the invention lies in the fact that it can crimp stones on an inner surface or a left surface.

Enfin, la surface sertie par le procédé selon l'invention présente un aspect continu qui fait que les pierres serties apparaissent comme alignées en rangées et colonnesFinally, the surface crimped by the process according to the invention has a continuous appearance which makes crimped stones appear as aligned in rows and columns.

Comme il va de soi, l'invention n'est pas limitée à la forme de réalisation décrite ci-dessus à titre d'exemple. Elle en embrasse au contraire toutes les formes de réalisation dans le cadre des revendications annexées.It goes without saying that the invention is not limited to the embodiment described above by way of example. On the contrary, it embraces all the embodiments within the scope of the appended claims.

Ainsi, d'autres formes d'outils pourraient être envisagées dans le cadre des revendications annexées. Il est bien entendu évident que tous types de pierre précieuse, semi précieuse ou synthétique peuvent être sertis selon ce procédé.Thus, other forms of tools could be envisaged in the context of the appended claims. It is, of course, obvious that all types of gemstone, semi precious or synthetic can be crimped according to this process.

On comprend également que, si ce procédé est particulièrement adapté au sertissage sur des métaux durs tels que le titane, il peut également être mis en oeuvre sur des métaux tels que or, argent ou acier.It is also understood that while this method is particularly suitable for crimping on hard metals such as titanium, it can also be used on metals such as gold, silver or steel.

Claims (5)

  1. A method for setting stones in a metal part (1), each stone (5) having a girdle (9), the method comprising the steps of:
    - piercing holes (2) in the metal part (1), each hole (2) being capable of receiving a stone,
    - setting a stone (5) in place in each hole (2),
    - applying a tool (6) at the surface of the part, in proximity to the periphery of each hole (2), and perpendicularly to the surface of the part, in order to push back a metal lip (8) onto the girdle (9) of the stone and form an imprint (11) on the surface of the metal part,
    characterized in that a tool (6) is used, having at its end several facets converging towards a tip (12) and in that a multitude of imprints are further made with the tool (6) on the surface of the metal part, delimited by the stones, the imprints each having several convergent facets ending with a tip (12), which may reflect light.
  2. The method according to claim 1, characterized in that the application of the tool is accomplished manually.
  3. The method according to claim 2, characterized in that the application of the tool is accomplished mechanically.
  4. A product such as a jewel or a timepiece comprising a metal part (1) on which stones (5) are arranged each having a girdle, the product having around each stone (5) at least one imprint forming a lip covering the girdle (9) of the stone (5), characterized in that it has, on the surface of the part, delimited by the stones, a multitude of imprints, the imprints each having several convergent facets, ending with a tip (12), printed in the surface of the metal part (1), able to reflect light.
  5. The product according to 4, characterized in that the surface of the metal part (1) delimited by several stones (5) is printed with imprints (11) in its totality.
EP04767285A 2003-06-11 2004-06-08 Method for setting a stone in a metal element Expired - Lifetime EP1631163B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR0307013A FR2855947B1 (en) 2003-06-11 2003-06-11 METHOD FOR CRIMPING A STONE IN A METAL ELEMENT
PCT/FR2004/001419 WO2004110200A2 (en) 2003-06-11 2004-06-08 Method for setting a stone in a metal element

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1631163A2 EP1631163A2 (en) 2006-03-08
EP1631163B1 true EP1631163B1 (en) 2012-03-21

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EP04767285A Expired - Lifetime EP1631163B1 (en) 2003-06-11 2004-06-08 Method for setting a stone in a metal element

Country Status (14)

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US (1) US20060123846A1 (en)
EP (1) EP1631163B1 (en)
JP (1) JP4842808B2 (en)
CN (1) CN1802113A (en)
AT (1) ATE549954T1 (en)
AU (1) AU2004246840B2 (en)
CA (1) CA2527818C (en)
EA (1) EA007233B1 (en)
ES (1) ES2384171T3 (en)
FR (1) FR2855947B1 (en)
PT (1) PT1631163E (en)
UA (1) UA87457C2 (en)
WO (1) WO2004110200A2 (en)
ZA (1) ZA200509862B (en)

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JP2010005346A (en) * 2008-06-30 2010-01-14 Tsutsumi Jewely Co Ltd Gem mounting structure of ornament
JP2010119699A (en) * 2008-11-20 2010-06-03 Tsutsumi Jewely Co Ltd Gem mounting structure of ornament
WO2012107209A1 (en) * 2011-02-08 2012-08-16 W D'or Brillantschmuck Gmbh Jewelry article having a jewel element and method for producing such a jewelry article
CN102845944B (en) * 2012-08-29 2015-08-19 恒信玺利实业股份有限公司 A kind of method for embedding of gem ornament
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CN107230565A (en) * 2017-06-29 2017-10-03 宁波公牛电器有限公司 A kind of mosaic texture and switch and socket
JP2021115075A (en) * 2020-01-22 2021-08-10 株式会社アズホーム Jewelry printing plate

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AU2004246840A1 (en) 2004-12-23
EA007233B1 (en) 2006-08-25
WO2004110200A3 (en) 2005-03-24
JP4842808B2 (en) 2011-12-21
ZA200509862B (en) 2006-12-27
ES2384171T3 (en) 2012-07-02
FR2855947A1 (en) 2004-12-17
US20060123846A1 (en) 2006-06-15
CN1802113A (en) 2006-07-12
JP2006527043A (en) 2006-11-30
FR2855947B1 (en) 2005-07-22
AU2004246840B2 (en) 2009-02-19
UA87457C2 (en) 2009-07-27
ATE549954T1 (en) 2012-04-15
EA200501939A1 (en) 2006-04-28
CA2527818A1 (en) 2004-12-23
EP1631163A2 (en) 2006-03-08
PT1631163E (en) 2012-06-20
CA2527818C (en) 2013-04-16
WO2004110200A2 (en) 2004-12-23

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