Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
  • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
  • A61K8/732—Starch; Amylose; Amylopectin; Derivatives thereof

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular of the skin and hair, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one starch betainate and at least one detergent surfactant, with a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials and a use for washing the skin or the hair.
• the hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light and the weather, and by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, bleaching, perms and / or dyes. .
• external atmospheric agents such as light and the weather
• mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, bleaching, perms and / or dyes.
• the hair is often difficult to disentangle or to comb and the hair, even abundant, hardly retains a hairstyle of good appearance due to the fact that the hair lacks vigor and nervousness.
• conditioning agents to the hair which facilitate the disentangling and combing of wet hair, ensuring good maintenance of the hairstyle and communicating to them, after drying, the body, the swelling and elasticity.
• cationic starches can be used which facilitate the disentangling of wet hair, which improve its softness and which, when dried, give them good properties of nervousness, hold, volume without touching or greasy appearance.
• repeated applications of these conditioning agents cause a rough feel of the hair and sometimes a lack of shine.
• the Applicant has surprisingly discovered that these unwanted effects can be avoided by using at least one starch betainate combined with at least one detergent surfactant.
• starch betainates are new polymers described in patent application WO 00/15669 from the company Raisio Chemicals OY and in the article "Preparation of starch betainate: a novel cationic starch derivative". They are only known in the field of papermaking and have never been used in cosmetics.
• the subject of the present invention is therefore a composition for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and in particular of the skin and hair, comprising in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one starch betainate and at least one detergent surfactant.
• Another subject of the invention consists in a cosmetic treatment process for keratin materials using the composition according to the invention.
• composition according to the invention for washing the skin or the hair.
• Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow.
• the composition for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least one starch betainate corresponding to the following formula:
• St represents a polymeric structure of starch, and at least one detergent surfactant, the total amount of detergent surfactant (s) being greater than or equal to 3%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium means a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, hair, nails, eyelashes and eyebrows, lips and any other area of the body and of the face, but also of odor, of pleasant appearance and touch.
• the starch molecules can come from all vegetable sources of starch such as, in particular corn, potato, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. Potato starch is preferred.
• starch betainates which can be used according to the present invention, as well as their preparation, are described in particular in the application.
• WO 00/15669 and in the article "Preparation of starch betainate: a novel cationic starch derivative". They are prepared from natural products, namely a starch as described above and betaine.
• the starch betainates can be used in a concentration of between 0.01 and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.05 and 10% by weight, better still between 0.1 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight. of composition.
• the detergent surfactants can be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants or a mixture of these.
• anionic surfactants which can be used, alone or in mixtures, in the context of the present invention, there may be mentioned in particular the salts, in particular the alkali metal salts such as the sodium salts, the ammonium salts, the salts of amines, amino alcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts, for example, magnesium, of the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkyl phosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, ⁇ -olefin sulfonates, paraffin-tallow onates; alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfoacetates;
• C 6 -C 24 alkyl esters and of polyglycoside-carboxylic acids such as alkyl glucoside-citrates, alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates, and alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates; alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl group of all these compounds having from 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
• anionic surfactants which can still be used, mention may also be made of acyl lactylates, the acyl group of which contains from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.
• uronic alkyl-D-galactoside acids and their salts as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24 ) ether carboxylic acids, aryl (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl acids 6 - C 24 ) polyoxyalkylenated ether-carboxyls, (C 6 - C 24 ) amidoether polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and mixtures thereof.
• anionic surfactants mentioned above, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulfates, of alkyl ether sulfates and of alkyl ether carboxylates, and their mixtures.
• Non-ionic surfactants are also compounds well known per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of
• Surfactants "by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178). Thus, they can in particular be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C 1 -C 20 ) alkyl phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 2 to 30.
• copolymers of ethylene and propylene oxide may also cite copolymers of ethylene and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and.
• polyethoxylated fatty amines preferably having 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide
• ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide
• sucrose fatty acid esters polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C 6 -C 24 ) alkyl polyglycosides, N-alkyl (C 6 -C 24 ) glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as that the oxides of alkyl (C 10 -
• Ci 4 amines or oxides of N-acyl (C 1 oC 1 ) aminopropylmorpholine; and their mixtures.
• alkyl (C 6 -C 2 4) polyglycosides use is preferably made of alkyl (C 6 -C 2 4) polyglycosides.
• the amphoteric surfactants suitable in the present invention, can in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, in which the aliphatic group is a straight or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing, at least one water-soluble anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group; Mention may also be made of (C 3 -C 20 ) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 6 -C 8 ) -betaines or (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 6 -C 8 ) sulfobetaines
• amine derivatives include the products commer- clauses under the name MIRANOL, as described in patents US 2,528,378 and US 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982 , under the names Amphocarboxy-glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (2) and (3): R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N + (R 3 ) (R 4 ) (CH 2 COO-) (2) in which:
• R 2 represents an alkyl group derived from an acid R 2 -COOH present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,
• R 3 represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and R 4 represents a carboxymethyl group
• B represents -CH 2 CH 2 OX '
• X ' represents the group -CH 2 CH 2 -COOH or a hydrogen atom
• Y' represents -COOH or the group -CH 2 -CHOH-SO 3 H
• R 2 represents an alkyl group of an acid R g -COOH present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C 17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C 17 group .
• cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrated by the company RHODIA.
• amphoteric surfactants use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20 ) alkyl amidoalkyl (C 6 -C 8 ) betaines, alkylamphodiacetates and their mixtures.
• the detergent surfactants described above can be used alone or in mixtures and their total amount is greater than or equal to 3% by weight, preferably between 3% and 30% by weight. weight, better still between 3% to 25% by weight and at best between 3% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium may consist solely of water or of a mixture of water and a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a lower C 4 -C 4 alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol. , tert-butanol, n-butanol; alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.
• a cosmetically acceptable solvent such as a lower C 4 -C 4 alcohol, such as ethanol, isopropanol. , tert-butanol, n-butanol
• alkylene glycols such as propylene glycol, glycol ethers.
• the cosmetic treatment composition of the invention can also comprise at least one cationic polymer different from the starch betainate above.
• cationic polymer any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable into cationic groups.
• the cationic polymers which can be used in accordance with the present invention can be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in French patent applications FR-A- 2 270 846, 2 383 660, 2 598 611, 2 470 596 and 2 519 863.
• the preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary amino groups , tertiary and / or quaternary can either be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.
• the cationic polymers used generally have a number average molecular mass of between 500 and 5.10 6 approximately, and preferably between 10 3 and 3.10 6 approximately.
• cationic polymers mention may more particularly be made of polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type. These are known products.
• polymers of the polyamine, polyaminoamide, quaternary polyammonium type which can be used in the composition of the present invention, are those described in French patents Nos . 2 505 348 or 2 542 997.
• R 3 identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group
• A identical or different, represent an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
• R 4 , R 5 , R 6 identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
• R, and R 2 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group;
• X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.
• the copolymers of family (1) can also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl groups (Cr -C 4 ), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, from vinyllactams such as la.vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolacta . me, vinyl esters.
• Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,131,576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl-trimethylammonium, of methacrylarnidopropyl-trimethylammonium, of dimethyldiallylammonium.
• guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups Use is made, for example, of guar gums modified with a salt, for example chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium.
• a salt for example chloride
• Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names of JAGUAR ® Cl 3 S, JAGUAR ® C 15, JAGUAR ® C 17 or JAGUAR ® Cl 62 by the company MEYHALL.
• Water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked with an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-halide of alkyl or also with an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, d 'an epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mol per amino group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamide
• Polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents Mention may be made, for example, of the adipic acid / diakylaminohydroxyalkyldialky-lene-triamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl, propyl group and the alkylene group comprises from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes the ethylene group.
• Such polymers are described in particular in French patent 1,583,363.
• These derivatives include in particular polymers, adipic acid / dimethyl-diethylenetriamine sold under the name "CARTARETINE ® F, F4 or F8" by Sandoz.
• the polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 atoms of carbon.
• the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between
• Polymers of this type are sold in particular under the name "Hercosett ® 57” by the company Hercules Inc. or else under the name of "PD 170” or “Delsette ® 101” by the company Hercules in the case of the copolymer of adipic acid / epoxypropyl-diethylene-triamine.
• R 12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group
• R 10 and R u independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (Cj-), or then R 10 and R n can denote, jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl
• Y " is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, piiosphate.
• R 10 and R n independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
• R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or. lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 , together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or alternatively R 13 , R 14 , R 15 and R 16 represent a linear or branched CC 6 ⁇ alkyl group, substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-OR ⁇ -D or -CO group -NH-R ⁇ -D where R 17 is an alkylene group and D a quaternary ammonium group; Ai and Bj represent polymethylenic groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain,
• X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid
• AR 13 and R 15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; moreover, if A, denotes a linear alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group or branched, saturated or unsaturated, B, can also denote a group:
• D denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas:
• x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or else the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -SS-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.
• X " is an anion such as chloride or bromide.
• These polymers have a number average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.
• R l 9 R 2 , R 3 and R 4 which are identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms approximately, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20 approximately and, X " is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.
• CFA hexadimethrin chloride
• R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, ⁇ -hydroxyethyl, ⁇ -hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2 ) group p OH, where p is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R 18 , R 19 , R 20 and R 21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or are whole numbers between 1 and 6, q is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, X " denotes an anion such as a halide,
• A denotes a radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -.
• Patent Application EP-122 324 Such compounds are described in Patent Application EP-122 324. These include among them, for example the products "Mirapol ®
• Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat ® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company
• This dispersion is sold under the name Salcare ® SC 92 by Allied Colloids.
• a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names Salcare ® SC 95 and Salcare ® SC 96 by Allied Colloids.
• cationic polymers which can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives.
• cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride, sold under the names MERQUAT 100, MERQUAT ® 550 and MERQUAT ® S by the company CALGON, cationic polysaccharides such as guar gums modified with a salt of 2,3-epoxypropyl-trimethylammonium, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole and their mixtures.
• quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name "JR 400" by the company UNION CARBIDE CORPORATION
• cationic cyclopolymers in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chlor
• compositions according to the invention can also comprise one or more amphoteric polymers.
• one can particularly include acrylic acid copolymers / chloride dialkyldiallylammonium such as Merquat ® 100 sold by Calgon.
• the cationic polymer (s) can represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.01 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.
• the pH of the compositions of the invention is between 4 and 8, preferably between 5 and 7.
• compositions according to the invention may also contain additives such as natural or synthetic polymeric thickeners, anionic, amphoteric, zwitteronic, nonionic or cationic, associative or not, non-polymeric thickeners such as acids or electrolytes, nacrants , opacifiers, organic solvents, perfumes, mineral, vegetable and / or synthetic oils, fatty acid esters, dyes, volatile or non-volatile silicones, organomodified or not, cyclic or acyclic, branched or not, mineral or organic particles, preservatives, pH stabilizers.
• additives such as natural or synthetic polymeric thickeners, anionic, amphoteric, zwitteronic, nonionic or cationic, associative or not, non-polymeric thickeners such as acids or electrolytes, nacrants , opacifiers, organic solvents, perfumes, mineral, vegetable and / or synthetic oils, fatty acid esters, dyes, volatile or non-vola
• additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• compositions can be in the form of fluid or thickened liquids, gels, creams, foams, W / O, O / W emulsions or multiple emulsions.
• They can be used, for example, as shampoos, rinsed or leave-in care, deep care masks, lotions or creams for treating the scalp and skin, make-up removers.
• the present invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials which consists in applying to the keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as described above, and optionally in rinsing after a possible pause time.
• a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials which consists in applying to the keratin materials an effective amount of a composition as described above, and optionally in rinsing after a possible pause time.
• a shampoo according to the invention was prepared from the following ingredients:
• the hair After rinsing, the hair is soft, smooth and easy to disentangle.
• a shampoo according to the invention was prepared from the following ingredients:
• a shampoo according to the invention was prepared from the following ingredients:
• the hair After rinsing, the hair is soft, smooth and easy to disentangle.

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• 2000
  • 2000-07-21 FR FR0009611A patent/FR2811895B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 2001
  • 2001-07-12 AU AU2001278529A patent/AU2001278529A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-07-12 US US10/333,208 patent/US20040037794A1/en not_active Abandoned
  • 2001-07-12 WO PCT/FR2001/002266 patent/WO2002007684A1/fr not_active Application Discontinuation
  • 2001-07-12 EP EP01956595A patent/EP1301162A1/de not_active Withdrawn
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