EP1249227A1 - Composition anti-rides a effet immédiat a base de dispersion aqueuse d'au moins une charge minérale. - Google Patents
Composition anti-rides a effet immédiat a base de dispersion aqueuse d'au moins une charge minérale. Download PDFInfo
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- EP1249227A1 EP1249227A1 EP02290860A EP02290860A EP1249227A1 EP 1249227 A1 EP1249227 A1 EP 1249227A1 EP 02290860 A EP02290860 A EP 02290860A EP 02290860 A EP02290860 A EP 02290860A EP 1249227 A1 EP1249227 A1 EP 1249227A1
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- EP
- European Patent Office
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- composition according
- chosen
- weight
- colloidal particles
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B82—NANOTECHNOLOGY
- B82Y—SPECIFIC USES OR APPLICATIONS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MEASUREMENT OR ANALYSIS OF NANOSTRUCTURES; MANUFACTURE OR TREATMENT OF NANOSTRUCTURES
- B82Y5/00—Nanobiotechnology or nanomedicine, e.g. protein engineering or drug delivery
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
- A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
Definitions
- the invention relates to a cosmetic composition with an effect immediate anti-wrinkle containing, in an aqueous medium physiologically acceptable an effective amount of at least one mineral filler in the form of dispersed colloidal particles in an aqueous medium.
- the present invention also relates to the use in and / or for the preparation of a dermatological composition, of at least one mineral filler as a tensioning agent for tensioning and smooth the skin in order to immediately reduce wrinkles and / or wrinkles.
- tightening agent we mean, within the meaning of the request, a compound capable of having an apparent tightening effect, i.e. to smooth the skin and reduce or even disappear so immediate wrinkles and fine lines.
- the main clinical signs of skin aging include the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, increasing with age. We see in particularly a disorganization of the "grain" of the skin, that is to say that the micro-relief is less regular and has a character anisotropic.
- compositions generally contain, as agent tensor, substances of natural origin, such as derivatives vegetables, eggs, milk or animals.
- substances of natural origin such as derivatives vegetables, eggs, milk or animals.
- the demand WO-98/29091 discloses use as an agent tensor of a polymer system with physico-chemical properties specific and comprising at least one polymer of natural origin, such as a soy protein extract or derived from chitin or keratin.
- the request WO 96/19180 describes compositions firming agents comprising a film-forming agent containing minus a plant polysaccharide and hydrolyzed casein as tensing active ingredients.
- the use of substances of natural origin is limited by the risks of encephalopathy bovine spongiform.
- the tightening effect provided by these substances is not very important qualitatively, and quantitatively it has low remanence.
- compositions with a tightening effect of the prior art use synthetic polymers.
- a composition with a tightening effect comprising an aqueous dispersion of a polymer system containing at least one polymer of synthetic origin, chosen from different types of polyurethanes, polyureas, polymers or acrylic copolymers, isophthalic acid polymers sulfonated and mixtures thereof.
- the cosmetic feel of these compositions is however not satisfactory.
- European patent application EP-1038519-A1 describes the use as a tightening agent in and / or for the manufacture of an anti-wrinkle composition, of at least one polymer grafted silicone comprising a polysiloxane portion and a position consisting of an organic non-silicone chain, one of the two portions constituting the main chain and the other being grafted on said main chain.
- silicone polymers do not have no satisfactory anti-wrinkle effect when formulated as an emulsion.
- the present invention is precisely aimed at satisfying such a need.
- composition cosmetic gives this composition, after application to the skin, excellent instant smoothing power of the layer superficial skin when these fillers are in the form of colloidal particles in stable dispersion in an aqueous medium.
- These charges in the form of colloidal particles can therefore be used as tensioning agents in compositions anti-wrinkle with immediate effect.
- colloidal particles is meant, within the meaning of the request, particles having a size of the order of a few tens of nanometers.
- silica is a material widely used in the cosmetic industry. It brings softness, dullness to formulations. It is also used in combination with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide for to form complex particles having sunscreen effects. For these applications, silica is very often in the form pulverulent, and a large range in terms of size particles are available from 1 to 100 ⁇ m. However, it is much less usual or even exceptional to use colloidal particles.
- European patent application EP-1008334-A2 describes the use and preparation at acid pH, of mixed silicates as as tensing agents to stretch the skin and smooth it in view immediately reduce wrinkles and / or fine lines on the skin, mixed silicates being in the form of medium-sized particles ranging from 15 to 1000 nm giving colloidal solutions.
- the fillers other than mixed silicates and above all, the tensor effect and the smoothing power are attributed to the chemical nature of the silicates mixed and not to particle size.
- the present invention therefore relates to a composition cosmetic with immediate anti-wrinkle effect containing, in a medium physiologically acceptable, an effective amount of at least a mineral filler excluding any mixed silicate, characterized in that the mineral filler is in the form of colloidal particles such as at least 70% by number have a diameter ranging from 0.1 to 100 nm, and preferably from 3 to 30 nm, in dispersion in an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic medium.
- physiologically acceptable medium is meant, at sense of demand, a non-toxic environment likely to be applied to the skin (including the inside of the eyelids) or human lips.
- aqueous medium is meant, in the sense of demand, also a medium containing only water than a medium comprising water and a water-soluble solvent such as an alcohol lower having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a glycol.
- effective quantity is meant, in the sense of demand, a sufficient quantity to achieve the desired goal, i.e. a tightening effect and instant smoothing power. This quantity depends on the mineral filler dispersion used and others compounds of the composition.
- diameter is meant, in the sense of the request, the diameter medium in number.
- the granulometry is determined using a granulometer Brookhaven Instrument Particle Size Analyzer 90 Plus Corporation.
- Colloidal particles are generally present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and preferably from 3 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Colloidal particles of mineral filler usable according to the invention are preferably non-gelling.
- non-gelling particles is meant, within the meaning of the request, that at a concentration greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in an aqueous, alcoholic or hydroalcoholic medium, the viscosity of the solutions of colloidal particles in said medium is less than 0.05 Pa.s for a shear rate of 10 s -1 , the measurement being carried out at 25 ° C using a Rheostress RS150 rheometer from Haake in cone-plane configuration , the measuring cone having a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 2 °.
- Colloidal particles of mineral filler usable according to the invention are generally chosen from particles colloidal silica, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulfate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, colloidal particles of platinum, mixed colloidal particles such as titanium dioxides coated one or many times, such as silica-coated titanium dioxide.
- composition according to the invention Preferably used in the composition according to the invention of colloidal silicas.
- colloidal silicas is meant, within the meaning of the request, colloidal particles of silica dispersed in a medium aqueous, hydroalcoholic, alcoholic.
- colloidal silicas which can be used in the composition according to the invention, there may be mentioned for example those sold by the company Catalysts and Chemicals under the names Cosmo S-40 and Cosmo S-50.
- composition according to the invention may comprise only one aqueous phase, then in the form of serum or gel, for example.
- composition according to the invention can also comprise a oily phase containing at least one oil.
- Hydrocarbon oil means in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly ester, ether, fluorinated, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
- the oily phase can also comprise other fatty substances, such as for example fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; natural waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, Carnauba or Candellila wax, paraffin, lignite or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C 1-4 -alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the trade names KSG® by the company Shin-Etsu, TREFIL®, BY29® and EPSX® by the company Dow Corning, or under the name GRANSIL® by the company Grant Industries.
- fatty substances can be chosen in various ways by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of consistency or texture, desired.
- the pH of the composition preferably ranges from 5 to 8, and better from 6 to 7. It can be adjusted by adding acid, such as for example hydrochloric acid or citric acid.
- compositions according to the invention can be presented under all dosage forms conventionally used for a topical application and in particular in the form of solutions aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily, oil-in-water emulsions (O / W), or water-in-oil (W / O), or multiple as per example of water-in-oil-in-water (W / O / W) emulsions, of gels aqueous or oily, liquid, pasty or anhydrous products solids, or dispersions of a fatty phase in a phase aqueous in the presence of spherules, these spherules possibly being polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules, or ionic lipid vesicles and / or non-ionic.
- These compositions are prepared according to the methods usual.
- compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white cream or colored, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, dough, foam.
- They can optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. They can also be in the form solid, and for example in the form of a stick.
- the composition according to the invention is a water-in-oil (W / O), or oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil-in -water (W / O / W).
- W / O water-in-oil
- W / O / W oil-in-water
- W / O / W water-in-oil-in -water
- Such a composition is preferably free of low molecular weight polyol, that is to say C 1 -C 5 .
- polyols are in particular glycerin and propylene glycol.
- the proportion of the oily phase in the emulsion can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.
- Oils, emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the cosmetic field or dermatology.
- the emulsifier and co-emulsifier are generally present in the composition, in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the emulsion can, in addition, contain lipid vesicles.
- Emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric emulsifiers, anionic, cationic or nonionic, used alone or in combination mixed. Emulsifiers are selected appropriately depending on the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W).
- Emulsions may also contain surfactants emulsifiers.
- emulsifying surfactants usable for the preparation of W / O emulsions for example, alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, glycerol or sugars; the silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the names DC 5225 C® or DC 3225C® by the company Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid® by Dow Corning, and Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90® by Goldschmidt.
- the silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the names DC 5225 C® or DC 3225C® by the company Dow Corning, and al
- non-ionic emulsifiers such as esters of fatty acids and glycerol oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated) may be mentioned, for example, as emulsifiers; esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and sorbitan; esters of oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated) fatty acids; ethers of oxyalkylenated fatty alcohols (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate.
- the cosmetic composition or the invention may also contain usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field or dermatological, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, filters lipophilic or hydrophilic sunscreen, bactericides, absorbers odor, dyestuffs, salts, polymers.
- adjuvants in the cosmetic field or dermatological, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, fragrances, fillers, filters lipophilic or hydrophilic sunscreen, bactericides, absorbers odor, dyestuffs, salts, polymers.
- the quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition.
- These adjuvants according to their nature, can be introduced in the fatty phase, in the aqueous phase and / or in the lipid
- fillers that can be used in the composition of the invention, there may be mentioned for example, in addition to the pigments, fibers; talc; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL® by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; the microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / methacrylate copolymer lauryle sold by Dow Corning under the name POLYTRAP®; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular, microspheres marketed under the name EXPANCEL® by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED® by the company Matsumoto; powders of organic materials natural such as corn, wheat or rice starches, cross-linked or not, such as anhydride crosslinked starch powders octenylsuccinate, sold under the name DRY-FLO® by the company National Starch; resin microbeads silicone such as those marketed under the name TOSPEARL®
- hydrophilic gelling agents mention may, for example, be made of carboxyvinyl polymers such as marketed products under the names CARBOPOL® (CTFA name: carbomer) by Goodrich, acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkylacrylates, polyacrylamides and by example the mixture sold under the name SEPIGEL®, the polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane acid sulfonic crosslinked or not, and neutralized or not, such as produces the product marketed by the company Hoechst under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide), polysaccharides such that cellulose derivatives and in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, natural gums like xanthan gum, and clays.
- lipophilic gelling agents of clays. modified such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, polymers and copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and anhydride maleic like the products marketed under STABILEZE® names by ISP (CTFA name: PVM / MA Decadiene Crosspolymer), and polyethylenes.
- active agents mention may be made in particular of all active agents known for their activity on aging skin, such as keratolytic agents or prodesquamants, for example ⁇ -hydroxy acids like glycolic, lactic, malic acids, citric, tartaric, mandelic, and their derivatives; ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives; ⁇ -keto acids like ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; ⁇ -keto acids ; retinoids such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (palmitate), retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives.
- keratolytic agents or prodesquamants for example ⁇ -hydroxy acids like glycolic, lactic, malic acids, citric, tartaric, mandelic, and their derivatives; ⁇ -hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives; ⁇ -keto acids like ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives; ⁇ -keto acids ; retinoids such as retinol (
- vitamins such as for example vitamins B3 or PP (niacinamide), B5 (panthenol), E (tocopherol), K1, and derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters; anti-free radical agents; sun filters; moisturizers such as polyols; ceramides; and the especially organic tensor polymers such as latexes, protein hydrolysates and chitin derivatives; DHEA and its derivatives such as alpha-hydroxy-DHEA; coenzyme Q10, whitening and depigmenting agents such as kojic acid, derivatives of para-aminophenols, arbutin and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
- vitamins B3 or PP niacinamide
- B5 panthenol
- E tocopherol
- K1 derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters
- anti-free radical agents sun filters
- moisturizers such as polyols
- ceramides and the especially organic tensor polymers
- the composition of the invention may understand all the UVA and UVB filters usable in the field cosmetic.
- titanium oxides amorphous or crystallized titanium dioxide in rutile form and / or anatase
- zinc, iron, zirconium, cerium or their mixtures can be in the form of particles with a micrometric or nanometric size (nano-pigments).
- nano-pigments the average sizes of particles range, for example, from 5 to 100 nm. We use preferably in the composition of the invention of the nanopigments.
- 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate marketed under the name PARSOL MCX® by the company Hoffmann-Laroche
- 1,4-benzene acid [di (3-methylidenecampho-10-sulfonic)] sold under the name MEXORYL SX® by the company Chimex
- 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone marketed under the name UVINUL M40® by the company BASF
- 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5 sulfonic acid marketed under the name EUSOLEX 232® by the company Merck, and their mixtures.
- the amount of active ingredients depends on the desired end use. It can range, for example, from 0.001 to 30% by weight, from preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
- the invention allows the smoothing of the skin and the blurring of fine lines and wrinkles on the skin.
- the subject of the invention is therefore also, a method of treatment cosmetic to stretch the skin and smooth it in order to soften immediately wrinkles and / or fine lines, characterized in that apply to the skin a composition as defined above.
- the invention also relates to a treatment method cosmetic of wrinkled skin consisting in applying to it a composition as defined above, in an amount effective to immediately reduce wrinkles or fine lines by effect tensor.
- Another subject of the invention is the use of a quantity effective of at least one mineral filler, as defined previously as a tightening agent in and / or for the preparation of a cosmetic composition.
- An anti-aging serum is prepared from the ingredients indicated in Table 2.
- the principle of the method consists in measuring the length of a test tube of stratum corneum isolated from a skin human from surgery, before and after treatment with the compositions to be tested.
- test tube is placed between the two jaws of the device, one of which is fixed and the other movable, in an atmosphere at 30 ° C and with 40% relative humidity.
- test piece is relaxed and then the composition to be tested is applied to the stratum corneum 2 mg / cm 2 . After 15 minutes of drying, the above steps are again implemented to determine the length L1 of the test piece after treatment.
- this percentage must be negative and the tensor effect is all the more important as the value absolute the percentage of retraction is high.
- Creams and serums, anti-wrinkle influence of the absence of glycerin
- Two anti-wrinkle sera S1 and S2 were also prepared, each also containing 15% of colloidal silica, from the ingredients indicated in table 4, the S1 serum containing 5% by weight of glycerin and the S2 serum being free.
- the immediate anti-wrinkle character is highlighted, by extensometer measurement of the percentage of retraction of a isolated stratum corneum test tube, as in example 2.
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Abstract
Description
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène ;
- les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol® 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité ;
- les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R1COOR2 et R1OR2 dans laquelle R1 représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaíne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarate d'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle ;
- les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que le Parléam® (de chez Nippon Gel Fats) ;
- les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique), l'octyldodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ou l'alcool linoléique ;
- les alcools gras alcoylés et notamment éthoxylés tels que l'oleth-12;
- les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912. Comme huiles fluorées, on peut citer aussi le perfluorométhylcyclopentane et le perfluoro-1,3 diméthylcyclohexane, vendus sous les dénominations de "FLUTEC PC1®" et "FLUTEC PC3®" par la Société BNFL Fluorochemicals ; le perfluoro-1,2-diméthylcyclobutane ; les perfluoroalcanes tels que le dodécafluoropentane et le tétradécafluorohexane, vendus sous les dénominations de "PF 5050®" et "PF 5060®" par la Société 3M, ou encore le bromoperfluorooctyle vendu sous la dénomination "FORALKYL®" par la Société Atochem ; le nonafluoro-méthoxybutane vendu sous la dénomination "MSX 4518®" par la Société 3M et le nonafluoroéthoxyisobutane ; les dérivés de perfluoromorpholine, tels que la 4-trifluorométhyl perfluoromorpholine vendue sous la dénomination "PF 5052®" par la Société 3M ;
- les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaíne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopoly-diméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que la cyclohexasiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaíne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényldiméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthyl-siloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes ;
- leurs mélanges.
- la 2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-éthylhexyl-1'-oxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazine commercialisé par la société BASF sous la dénomination UVINUL T150®, et
- le dioctyl butamido triazone commercialisé par la société Sigma 3V sous la dénomination UVASORB HEB®, et
- la 2,4-dihydroxybenzophénone (benzophénone-1),
- la 2,2',4,4'-tétra-hydroxybenzophénone (benzophénone-2),
- la 2-hydroxy-4-méthoxy-benzophénone (benzophénone-3), commercialisé sous la dénomination UVINUL M40® par la société BASF,
- l'acide 2-hydroxy-4-méthoxy-benzophénone-5-sulfonique (benzophénone-4) ainsi que sa forme sulfonate (benzophénone-5), commercialisé par la société BASF sous la dénomination UVINUL MS40®,
- la 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-diméthoxy-benzophénone (benzophénone-6),
- la 5-chloro-2-hydroxybenzophénone (benzophénone-7),
- la 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-méthoxy-benzophénone (benzophénone-8),
- le sel disodique du diacide 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-diméthoxybenzophénone-5,5'-disulfonique (benzophénone-9),
- la 2-hydroxy-4-méthoxy-4'-méthyl-benzophénone (benzophénone-10),
- la benzophénone-11,
- la 2-hydroxy-4-(octyloxy)benzophénone (benzophénone-12) ;
- le 2-[1-[3-[1,3,3,3-tétraméthyl-1-[(triméthylsilyl)oxy]-disiloxanyl]propyl]-1 H-benzimidazol-2-yl]-benzoxazole,
- le 2-[1-[3-[1,3,3,3-tétraméthyl-1-[(triméthylsilyl)oxy]-disiloxanyl]propyl]-1 H-benzimidazol-2-yl]-benzothiazole,
- le 2-[1-(3-trimethylsilanyl-propyl)-1H-benzimidazol-2-yl]-benzoxazole,
- le 6-méthoxy-1,1'-bis-(3-triméthylsilanyl-propyl)-1H,1'H-[2,2'] bibenzimidazolyl-benzoxazole,
- le 2-[1-(3-trimethylsilanyl-propyl)-1H-benzimidazol-2-yl]-benzothiazole, qui sont décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A-1 028 120 ;
- On chauffe la phase B à 75°C environ et on y incorpore l'ammonium poly acryl diméthylamide (Hostacerin AMPS®).
- On agite jusqu'à obtention d'un gel homogène.
- Puis on chauffe la phase A à environ 75°C.
- On réalise l'émulsion sous agitation en incorporant la phase A dans la phase B.
- On ajoute ensuite la phase C, toujours sous agitation.
- Puis, on incorpore à une température allant de 40 à 45°C la phase D et on maintient l'agitation jusqu'à refroidissement complet.
- On chauffe la phase A à environ 75°C et on disperse la gomme de xanthane et le polymère (PVM/MA Decadiene Crosspolymer) sous agitation.
- Puis on ajoute la phase B sous agitation.
- A 40°C, on ajoute la phase C.
- Puis on incorpore la phase D et on maintient l'agitation jusqu'à refroidissement complet.
- sur des modèles humains : on prend en photo les modèles avant l'application de tout produit, puis après avoir appliqué une émulsion contenant 7% (en matière active) de silice colloïdale et l'on compare les clichés. On constate une nette diminution de la visibilité des rides (particulièrement la patte d'oie et sous les yeux),
- par mesure à l'extensomètre; le pourcentage de rétraction de l'éprouvette de stratum corneum est de -1.3+/-0.5 pour la crème de l'exemple 1 et de - 2.2%/-0.4 pour le sérum de l'exemple 2.
Compositions | % de rétraction d'une éprouvette de stratum cornéum isolé |
Crème C1 (avec glycérine) | -1,15 ± 0,21 |
Crème C2 (sans glycérine) | -2,16 ± 0,42 |
Sérum S1 (avec glycérine) | -1,08 ± 0,35 |
Sérum S2 (sans glycérine) | -2,50 ± 0,35 |
Claims (27)
- Composition cosmétique à effet anti-rides immédiat contenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, une quantité efficace d'au moins une charge minérale à l'exclusion de tout silicate mixte, caractérisée en ce que la charge minérale est sous forme de particules colloïdales telles que 70 % en nombre au moins ont un diamètre allant de 0,1 à 100 nm, en dispersion dans un milieu aqueux, alcoolique ou hydroalcoolique.
- Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce qu'au moins 70% en nombre des particules ont un diamètre allant de 3 à 30 nm.
- Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que les particules colloïdales sont présentes dans la composition en une quantité de matière active allant de 0,5 à 15% en poids, et de préférence de 3 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
- Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisé en ce que les particules colloïdales de charge minérale sont choisies parmi les particules colloïdales de silice, d'oxyde de cérium, d'oxyde de zirconium, d'alumine, de carbonate de calcium, de sulfate de baryum, de sulfate de calcium, d'oxyde de zinc et de dioxyde de titane, les particules colloïdales de platine, les particules colloïdales mixtes.
- Composition selon la revendication 4, caractérisée en ce que les particules colloïdales sont des silices colloïdales.
- Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend une phase huileuse contenant au moins une huile choisie parmi les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées, les huiles de silicone, les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, les alcools gras alcoylés et notamment éthoxylés.
- Composition selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce que la phase huileuse comprend également des corps gras choisis parmi les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, les cires naturelles comme les cires d'abeille, de Carnauba ou de paraffine, les cires synthétiques, les gommes et les élastomères de silicone.
- Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle a un pH allant de 5 à 8 et de préférence de 6 à 7.
- Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous la forme d'une solution aqueuse, hydroalcoolique ou huileuse, ou d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau (H/E) ou eau-dans-huile (E/H) ou encore d'une émulsion multiple, ou d'un gel aqueux ou huileux, ou d'un produit anhydre liquide, pâteux ou solide, ou d'une dispersion d'une phase grasse dans une phase aqueuse en présence de nanoparticules polymériques, telles que les nanocapsules ou nanosphères ou en présence de vésicules lipidiques de type ionique et/ou non ionique.
- Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 8, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous la forme d'une crème, d'une pommade, d'un lait, d'une lotion, d'un sérum, d'une pâte, d'une mousse, d'une composition pour aérosol, ou sous forme de stick.
- Composition selon la revendication 9, caractérisée en ce que la composition se présente sous forme d'une émulsion eau-dans-huile (E/H) ou huile-dans-eau (H/E), ou eau-dans-huile-dans-eau (E/H/E).
- Composition selon la revendication 11, caractérisée en ce qu'elle est exempte de glycérine et de propylène glycol.
- Composition selon la revendication 11 ou 12, caractérisée en ce que la phase huileuse représente de 5 à 80% en poids, et de préférence de 5 à 50% en poids du poids total de la composition.
- Composition selon l'une des revendications 11 à 13, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend au moins un émulsionnant choisi parmi les émulsionnants amphotères, anioniques, cationiques ou non ioniques, utilisés seuls ou en mélange.
- Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend un ou plusieurs adjuvants choisis parmi les gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les conservateurs, les antioxydants, les solvants, les parfums, les charges, les filtres solaires lipophiles ou hydrophiles, les bactéricides, les absorbeurs d'odeur, les matières colorantes, les sels et les polymères, l'adjuvant étant présent à raison de 0,01 à 30% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
- Composition selon la revendication 15, caractérisée en ce que les gélifiants hydrophiles sont choisis parmi les polymères carboxyvinyliques, les copolymères acryliques, les polyacrylamides, les polymères et copolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido-2-méthylpropane sulfonique, les polysaccharides et les gommes naturelles.
- Composition selon la revendication 15, caractérisée en ce que les gélifiants lipophiles sont choisis parmi les argiles modifiées, les sels métalliques d'acides gras, les polymères et copolymères de méthyl vinyl éther et d'anhydride maléique, et les polyéthylènes.
- Composition selon la revendication 15, caractérisée en ce que les actifs sont choisis parmi les actifs agissant contre le vieillissement de la peau, les vitamines B3, B5, E, K1 et leurs dérivés, et en particulier les esters, les agents anti-radicaux libres, les filtres solaires, les agents hydratants, les céramides, les polymères tenseurs notamment organiques, la DHEA et ses dérivés, la coenzyme Q10, les agents blanchissants et dépigmentants, et leurs mélanges.
- Composition selon la revendication 18, caractérisée en ce que les actifs agissant contre le vieillissement de la peau sont choisis parmi les agents kératolytiques, les α-hydroxy-acides, les α-céto-acides, les β-céto-acides et les rétinoïdes.
- Composition selon la revendication 18 ou 19, caractérisée en ce que les actifs sont présents à raison de 0,001 à 30% en poids, de préférence de 0,05 à 20% en poids, et mieux de 0,5 à 15% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
- Composition selon la revendication 15, caractérisée en ce que les charges sont choisies parmi les pigments, les fibres, le talc, les particules de polyamide, les microsphères à base de copolymères acryliques, les poudres expansées telles que les microsphères creuses, les poudres de matériaux organiques naturels, les microbilles de résine de silicone, les charges étant présentes dans la composition à raison de 0 à 20% en poids, et de préférence de 1 à 10% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition.
- Composition selon la revendication 18, caractérisée en ce que les filtres solaires sont choisis parmi les filtres UVA, les filtres UVB, les filtres physiques et leurs mélanges.
- Procédé de traitement cosmétique pour tendre la peau et la lisser en vue d'atténuer immédiatement les rides et/ou ridules, caractérisé en ce que l'on applique sur la peau une composition telle que définie selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 22.
- Procédé de traitement cosmétique d'une peau ridée consistant à appliquer sur celle-ci une composition telle que définie selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 22, en une quantité efficace pour estomper immédiatement la ride ou la ridule par effet tenseur.
- Utilisation d'au moins une charge minérale, à l'exclusion de tout silicate mixte, sous forme de particules colloïdales en dispersion dans un milieu aqueux, alcoolique ou hydroalcoolique dans et/ou pour la préparation d'une composition cosmétique, comme agent tenseur pour tendre la peau et la lisser en vue d'atténuer immédiatement les rides et/ou ridules.
- Utilisation selon la revendication précédente, caractérisée en ce que la charge minérale se présente sous forme de particules colloïdales telles que 70 % en nombre au moins ont un diamètre allant de 3 à 30 nm, en dispersion dans un milieu aqueux, alcoolique ou hydroalcoolique.
- Utilisation selon la revendication 25 ou 26, caractérisée en ce que les particules colloïdales sont des silices colloïdales.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0104743 | 2001-04-06 | ||
FR0104743A FR2823113B1 (fr) | 2001-04-06 | 2001-04-06 | Composition cosmetique anti-rides a effet immediat a base de dispersion aqueuse d'au moins une charge minerale |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
EP1249227A1 true EP1249227A1 (fr) | 2002-10-16 |
EP1249227B1 EP1249227B1 (fr) | 2004-08-04 |
Family
ID=8862059
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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EP02290860A Expired - Lifetime EP1249227B1 (fr) | 2001-04-06 | 2002-04-05 | Composition anti-rides a effet immédiat a base de dispersion aqueuse d'au moins une charge minérale. |
Country Status (8)
Country | Link |
---|---|
US (1) | US6896889B2 (fr) |
EP (1) | EP1249227B1 (fr) |
JP (1) | JP2002326923A (fr) |
CN (1) | CN1389197A (fr) |
CA (1) | CA2380676A1 (fr) |
DE (1) | DE60200846T2 (fr) |
ES (1) | ES2225736T3 (fr) |
FR (1) | FR2823113B1 (fr) |
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FR2894809A1 (fr) * | 2005-12-15 | 2007-06-22 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules colloidales de charge minerale et des fibres |
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- 2002-04-05 ES ES02290860T patent/ES2225736T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
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Cited By (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO2006128780A1 (fr) * | 2005-06-03 | 2006-12-07 | Beiersdorf Ag | Preparations cosmetiques presentant une certaine teneur en extrait aqueux d'anis et en matieres de charge |
FR2894809A1 (fr) * | 2005-12-15 | 2007-06-22 | Oreal | Composition cosmetique comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules colloidales de charge minerale et des fibres |
EP1810658A2 (fr) * | 2005-12-15 | 2007-07-25 | L'Oréal | Composition cosmétique comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules colloïdales de charge minérale et des fibres |
EP1810658A3 (fr) * | 2005-12-15 | 2008-12-24 | L'Oréal | Composition cosmétique comprenant une dispersion aqueuse de particules colloïdales de charge minérale et des fibres |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
US20030007985A1 (en) | 2003-01-09 |
CA2380676A1 (fr) | 2002-10-06 |
CN1389197A (zh) | 2003-01-08 |
JP2002326923A (ja) | 2002-11-15 |
DE60200846D1 (de) | 2004-09-09 |
EP1249227B1 (fr) | 2004-08-04 |
ES2225736T3 (es) | 2005-03-16 |
FR2823113A1 (fr) | 2002-10-11 |
US6896889B2 (en) | 2005-05-24 |
DE60200846T2 (de) | 2005-08-18 |
FR2823113B1 (fr) | 2005-12-16 |
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