Classifications

• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
  • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
  • A61K8/06—Emulsions
  • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/34—Alcohols
  • A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
  • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
  • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
  • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
  • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
  • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
  • A61K8/86—Polyethers
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
  • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
  • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
  • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
  • A61K8/925—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of animal origin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
  • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/007—Preparations for dry skin
• • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
  • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
  • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
  • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
  • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations

Definitions

• the present invention relates to a composition in the form of an emulsion oil-in-water (O / W) with a high wax content, and its uses in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for the care, treatment and / or make-up of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and more particularly for the treatment of wrinkles and / or fine lines of the skin and / or for treatment and / or protection of dry skin.
• O / W emulsion oil-in-water
• the invention also relates to a process for the preparation of this composition according to which at least one step of the process is carried out using a mixer-extruder.
• waxes in cosmetic creams presented under form of emulsions intended for the care of human skin, in particular for anti-wrinkle effects brought by these waxes. Nevertheless, it is difficult to incorporate into these compositions a high percentage of waxes because waxes tend to thicken the emulsions enormously. Also, when you incorporate a strong percentage of waxes in an emulsion, it is very difficult to apply to the skin because it does not slip. In addition, there is a rough effect on the skin. The use of such an emulsion is therefore unacceptable for the user.
• HLB Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance or lipophilic balance
• the present invention therefore relates to a composition in the form of a oil-in-water emulsion comprising an oily phase dispersed in a aqueous phase, characterized in that it contains a mixture of at least two nonionic emulsifiers, said mixture being liquid at temperature ambient and having an HLB ranging from 6 to 13, and in that the oily phase contains at least 5% by weight of one or more waxes relative to the total weight of the composition, at least one wax being chosen from waxes having a starting melting point greater than or equal to 50 ° C.
• composition obtained although containing a high level of wax is fresh to the application.
• the Applicant has sought to avoid the use of ionic emulsifiers which can be irritating for certain skin types and in particular skin sensitive.
• the use of non-ionic emulsifiers poses difficulties since there is no liquid nonionic emulsifier at the ambient temperature and having an HLB ranging from 6 to 13, making it possible to reach the object of the invention.
• the applicant has therefore been led to use a mixture non-ionic emulsifiers, meeting the desired criteria.
• the mixture of nonionic emulsifiers used in the composition of the invention must be liquid at room temperature, that is to say at a temperature ranging from 15 ° C to 25 ° C, and having an HLB ranging from 6 to 13. It can include in particular (1) at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB equal to or greater than 13 and (2) at least one non-ionic emulsifier having an HLB equal to or less than 5. In addition, it may optionally comprise at least one co-emulsifier which may be particularly necessary if the emulsifiers (1) and (2) used are both solid, the co-emulsifier then being liquid and allowing to get a liquid mixture.
• the HLB of a mixture of emulsifiers corresponds to the average of the HLB of each of the emulsifiers constituting the mixture, account given the weight proportion of these emulsifiers.
• non-ionic emulsifiers of HLB equal to or less than 5, there may be mentioned for example polyol and fatty acid esters having an alkyl chain having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid esters and glycerin, glucose or sorbitol; oxyethylenated derivatives of esters of polyols and fatty acid having an alkyl chain having from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, comprising from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated groups, such as the complex of triisostearin (triester of glycerin and isostearic acid) and PEG-6; ethers polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol having an alkyl chain comprising of 12 with 22 carbon atoms, comprising from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated groups, such as oleyl ethers and in particular oleth-25 (25 oxyethylenated groups), and their mixtures.
• non-ionic emulsifiers of HLB equal to or less than 5, it is possible to use advantageously those which are liquid at room temperature, such as polyol fatty esters and fatty ethers, with branched or unsaturated chain comprising 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular sorbitan mono-isostearate like the product sold under the name "Arlacel 987" by the company ICI, the sorbitan mono / di-oleate as the product sold under the name “Arlacel 83 "by ICI, the triisostearin and PEG-6 complex as the product sold under the name "Labrafil isostearique" by the company Gattefossé, the decaglyceryl penta-isostearate such as the product sold under the name "Nikkol Decaglyn 5-IS” by the company Nikko Chemical, the dioleate of methylglucose as the product sold under the name "Isolan DO” by the Goldschmidt company.
• non-ionic emulsifiers of HLB equal to or greater than 13 there may be mentioned for example polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters having a chain alkyl containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, comprising from 5 to 100 and preferably 20 to 60 oxyethylenated groups, such as PEG-40 stearate; the polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol ethers having an alkyl chain comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, comprising from 5 to 100 and preferably from 10 to 30 oxyethylenated groups, such as ceteareth-25 or ceteth-25; the esters of sorbitan and fatty acid having an alkyl chain containing from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, comprising from 0 to 100 and preferably from 4 to 25 groups oxyethylenated, such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40 and Polysorbate 60; sugar and fatty acid esters having an alkyl chain having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as sucrose stearate; polyethylene
• non-ionic emulsifiers of HLB equal to or greater than 13
• those which are liquid at room temperature such as Polysorbate 20 as the product sold under the name “Tween 20” by ICI, Polysorbate 40 as the product sold under the name “Tween 40” by ICI, PEG-8 caprylic / capric glycerides such as product sold under the name "Labrasol” by the company Gattefossé, PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate as the product sold under the name "Glucamate SSE 20" by the company Amerchol.
• co-emulsifier there may be mentioned, for example, fatty alcohols comprising a branched or unsaturated chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as isostearic alcohol; fatty acids comprising a branched or unsaturated chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ricinoleic acid; the esters of polyol and branched fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as branched fatty esters of glyceryl or propylene glycol such as isostearate glyceryl or propylene glycol isostearate, and mixtures thereof.
• fatty alcohols comprising a branched or unsaturated chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as isostearic alcohol
• fatty acids comprising a branched or unsaturated chain having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as ricinoleic acid
• the esters of polyol and branched fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms such as branched fatty
• non-ionic emulsifiers liquid at room temperature and having an HLB of 6 to 13, usable in the composition according to the invention
• HLB 6 to 13
• the amount of mixture of emulsifiers (emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers) in the composition according to the invention generally ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight in active material and preferably from 1 to 25% by weight of active material per relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the proportion of each emulsifier can be easily determined by humans of the trade with a view to obtaining a mixture adapted to the criteria defined above.
• the quantity of nonionic emulsifiers without taking into account the co-emulsifier ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the composition of the invention contains in the oily phase, at least 5% in weight of one or more waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition.
• the oily phase cooled before mixing with the aqueous phase occurs advantageously in the form of a flexible paste.
• “dough flexible” a paste whose viscosity can be measured, as opposed to the structure solid of a stick or stick, whose viscosity cannot be measured.
• the viscosity dynamics of flexible dough at 25 ° C is generally between 3 and 35 Pa.s, measured with a CONTRAVES TV rotary viscometer equipped with a mobile "MS-r4" at the frequency of 60 Hz.
• mineral waxes such as microcrystalline waxes, paraffin, petrolatum, petroleum jelly, ozokerite, montan wax
• animal waxes such as beeswax, lanolin and its derivatives
• vegetable waxes such as Candellila, Ouricurry, Carnauba, Japanese wax
• At least one wax having a melting temperature is used beginning greater than or equal to 50 ° C, and better at least one wax whose starting melting temperature is above 65 ° C, such as Carnauba, certain polyethylene waxes and certain microcrystalline waxes such than the one sold by the company Tisco under the name “Tisco Wax 88" or the one sold by the company RMC under the name of "Feruwax 30540".
• starting melting temperature is meant herein describes the temperature at which a wax begins to melt. We can determine this temperature by ATD (differential thermal analysis) which allows the thermogram (or melting curve) of the wax in question to be obtained. The starting melting point corresponds to the temperature at which can observe a significant change in slope in the thermogram. Point for its part, represents the minimum point of said thermogram.
• ATD differential thermal analysis
• the amount of wax (es) in the composition of the invention is at least 5% and goes preferably from 5 to 30% and better still from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.
• the amount of oily phase in the composition of the invention generally goes from 10 to 70% and preferably from 20 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.
• This oily phase is used in such a quantity or else contains an amount of waxes such as the amount of waxes in the composition final is equal to or greater than 5%.
• the oily phase of the composition of the invention generally comprises, in addition to the wax (es), one or more fatty substances chosen from the oils of origin animal, vegetable oils, mineral oils, oils synthetic, fluorinated oils, silicone oils and in particular volatile silicone, silicone gums, silicone resins, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and silicone elastomers such as products sold under the name "KSG” by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name “Trefil” by the company Dow Corning or under the name "Gransil” by the General Electric company.
• fatty substances chosen from the oils of origin animal, vegetable oils, mineral oils, oils synthetic, fluorinated oils, silicone oils and in particular volatile silicone, silicone gums, silicone resins, fatty alcohols, fatty acids and silicone elastomers
• the composition of the invention can also contain one or more several fillers (powdery constituents) which can be chosen by example in the group formed by talc; micas of natural origin or synthetic; kaolin; zinc or titanium oxides; calcium carbonate; carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate; silica, especially silica spherical, the silica powder marketed under the name "Cab-O-Sil TS 530 "by the company Cabot, and silica microbeads such as those sold under the name SB150 by the company Myoshi; dioxide titanium; glass and ceramic balls sold by the company 3M under the trade name "Macrolite”; derived metal soaps of organic carboxylic acid having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; the powders of unexpanded synthetic polymers, such as powders polyethylene, polystyrene, polyesters, polyamides (e.g., poly
• acrylate copolymers for example microspheres microporous sold by Dow Corning under the name "Polytrap", polymethacrylic acids, polystyrene, teflon like the “Fluon”; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres in thermoplastic material prepared by known methods, such as those described in US-A-3 615 972 and EP-A-0 56219 and in particular the microspheres marketed under the trade name "Expancel” by the company Kemanord Plast or under the trade name "Micropearl F 80 ED” by Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, such as powders starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride, sold under the name "Dry-Flo” by the company National Starch; resin microbeads silicone such as those sold under the name "Tospearl” by the Toshiba Silicone company, and their mixtures.
• acrylate copolymers for example microsphere
• the loads can represent up to 20% by weight compared to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition.
• the aqueous phase of the composition of the invention represents at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and preferably from 50 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• composition according to the invention can be used in all fields where this type of dosage form is interesting, especially in the fields cosmetic and dermatological.
• it When it constitutes a cosmetic composition and / or dermatological, it advantageously contains a physiologically medium acceptable, i.e. compatible with the skin, mucous membranes, nails and / or the hair.
• compositions which are the subject of the invention find their application in a large number of treatments for the skin, mucous membranes (lips) and hair, including including the scalp, in particular for protection, care, cleaning and / or make-up of the skin and / or mucous membranes, for the protection, care and / or hair cleaning and / or for the therapeutic treatment of the skin, hair and / or mucous membranes.
• compositions according to the invention can for example be used as treatment, care, protection and / or cleansing products for the skin under in the form of creams or milks, or as make-up products (skin and lips) by incorporating fillers and / or coloring matters (pigments and / or dyes). They are particularly suitable for the treatment of wrinkles and / or fine lines of the skin and for the treatment and / or protection of dry skin.
• the subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above for the treatment, protection, care and / or cleansing of the skin, mucous membranes and / or hair, and / or for makeup of the skin and / or mucous membranes.
• composition as defined above for the treatment of wrinkles and / or fine lines of the skin.
• compositions as defined above for the manufacture of a dermatological composition intended for treatment and / or protection of dry skin.
• compositions of the invention may contain usual adjuvants in the cosmetic or dermatological field, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic active ingredients, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, solvents, sunscreens, dyes, agents basic or acidic and also lipid vesicles.
• adjuvants are used in the usual proportions in the cosmetic or dermatological field, and for example from 0.01 to 30% of the total weight of the composition, and they are, according to their nature, introduced into the aqueous phase or into the oily phase of the composition, or even in vesicles.
• These adjuvants and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property sought for composition.
• hydrophilic gelling agents such as carboxyvinyl polymers or carbomers and polyacrylamides.
• a polyacrylamide such as product marketed under the name Hostacerin AMPS by the company Hoechst.
• These gelling agents are used at concentrations ranging from 0.05 to 2%, preferably 0.1 to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• moisturizers such as polyols and in particular glycerin, ethylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propane-1,2 diol, diglycerin, sorbitol, polyethylene glycols and mixtures thereof.
• composition according to the invention can be advantageously prepared by using, for at least one step of the process, a kneading apparatus such as a cylinder mill with two cylinders rotating in opposite directions between which pass the dough or a screw mixer-extruder.
• a kneading apparatus such as a cylinder mill with two cylinders rotating in opposite directions between which pass the dough or a screw mixer-extruder.
• Another object of the invention is therefore a process for preparing a composition according to the invention, characterized in that at least one process step using a screw mixer-extruder.
• steps (2) and (3) are carried out in an apparatus mixture usually used by those skilled in the art, such as a stator rotor.
• the emulsifier used is a mixture nonionic emulsifiers, liquid at room temperature and having an HLB of 6 to 13, and the quantities used are such that the emulsion obtained comprises at least at least 5% of wax by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
• steps (2) and (3) above are also made in the screw mixer-extruder used for step (1).
• the mixture of emulsifiers and the aqueous phase are then introduced. in a part (or element) of the mixer-extruder where the temperature is close to room temperature.
• the different process steps can be carried out in one or more extruders arranged one after the other, and preferably in a single twin screw extruder.
• the elements of the screw mixer-extruder used are, from the first to the sixth element, brought respectively to the following temperatures: 20 ° C, 80 ° C, 60 ° C, 20 ° C, 20 ° C and 20 ° C.
• a cream is obtained which has a very light texture and which has good hydration qualities and is able to smooth the relief of the skin.

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• Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
• Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
• Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
• Public Health (AREA)
• General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
• Birds (AREA)
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• Dermatology (AREA)
• Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
• Zoology (AREA)
• Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
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• 1998
  • 1998-12-14 FR FR9815763A patent/FR2787025B1/fr not_active Expired - Fee Related
• 1999
  • 1999-10-26 ES ES99402659T patent/ES2162511T3/es not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1999-10-26 DE DE69900217T patent/DE69900217T2/de not_active Expired - Fee Related
  • 1999-10-26 EP EP99402659A patent/EP1013267B1/de not_active Expired - Lifetime
  • 1999-10-26 AT AT99402659T patent/ATE203896T1/de active
  • 1999-12-13 JP JP11353753A patent/JP2000178133A/ja not_active Withdrawn
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