EP1000189B1 - Nähverfahren und nähmaschine die das freimachen einer ziehschnur aus einer durch eine nähnaht geformte passage ermöglicht - Google Patents

Nähverfahren und nähmaschine die das freimachen einer ziehschnur aus einer durch eine nähnaht geformte passage ermöglicht Download PDF

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Publication number
EP1000189B1
EP1000189B1 EP98937600A EP98937600A EP1000189B1 EP 1000189 B1 EP1000189 B1 EP 1000189B1 EP 98937600 A EP98937600 A EP 98937600A EP 98937600 A EP98937600 A EP 98937600A EP 1000189 B1 EP1000189 B1 EP 1000189B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
tension thread
sewing
picking
tension
machine
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP98937600A
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English (en)
French (fr)
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EP1000189A1 (de
Inventor
Christian Guilhem
Marc Guilhem
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Guilhem Christian
Guilhem Marc
Original Assignee
Guilhem Christian
Guilhem Marc
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Publication of EP1000189A1 publication Critical patent/EP1000189A1/de
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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B1/00—General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both
    • D05B1/08—General types of sewing apparatus or machines without mechanism for lateral movement of the needle or the work or both for making multi-thread seams
    • D05B1/18—Seams for protecting or securing edges
    • D05B1/20—Overedge seams
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B65/00—Devices for severing the needle or lower thread
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B29/00—Pressers; Presser feet
    • D05B29/06—Presser feet
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2303/00—Applied objects or articles
    • D05D2303/08—Cordage
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/08—Cutting the workpiece
    • D05D2305/10—Cutting the workpiece longitudinally

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a sewing method and a machine for sew for sewing, on a sewing piece such as a soft cover, one stitch sewing formed of threads, called auxiliary threads, of the type forming an extending passage according to the direction of sewing (overlock, zigzag, ...), with a thread, called tension thread, guided and positioned relative to the stitch in the passage simultaneously with stitching of auxiliary wires, so that this tension wire can slide longitudinally and / or laterally in this passage, the tension thread not being stitched by the auxiliary threads forming the stitch.
  • auxiliary threads of the type forming an extending passage according to the direction of sewing (overlock, zigzag, ...)
  • EP-0 223 312 and US-4 732 097 describe a method and a sewing machine allowing in particular to sew an overlock using threads auxiliaries, and to guide and set up a tension wire in a passage of this overlock, simultaneously and as the overlock is sewn.
  • the overlock must be sewn out of the sewing piece around the tension thread on corresponding lengths to said strands protruding from the tension wire to be left free, and we release and we cut off those unnecessary excess portions of overlock after sewing and release of the part from the machine.
  • these overlock operations is a waste of thread, time and manpower (which can take significant proportions in the context of large series productions work by this process and this machine)
  • the sewing of the excess portions of overlock without sewing piece corresponds to abnormal machine operation source of malfunction, interruption of production rates, and misalignment or even deterioration of the machine (in particular claws in direct contact with the foot in the absence of material).
  • the tension thread and overlock assembly cannot be guided, downstream of the stitching means, with the same precision as a sewing piece.
  • the passage for the tension wire can be formed (much less efficient but sufficient in certain applications where the tension wire does not undergo no or undergoes little tension) by a zigzag stitch.
  • tension wire thus covers any threadlike element (including cord, cord, cord, braid, loop %), elastic or not, distinct from the auxiliary threads used to form the stitch, which is guided and placed in the passage simultaneously with the stitching of the point of seam without being crossed by the auxiliary threads, so that it can slide longitudinally and / or laterally in this passage.
  • the invention therefore aims to propose a solution to the problems above, and aims to propose a sewing process allowing forming, at the start of the seam, and / or in the main part of the seam, and / or at the end of sewing, strands of tension thread clear of the passage formed by the stitch -in particular strands beyond beyond the ends of the passage formed by the stitch - in a simple, fast and reliable way.
  • the invention aims in particular to propose such a method which can be implemented fully automatically, under the control of a programmed control device (robot, automaton, computer system ...) without require human intervention.
  • the invention thus aims to allow the realization, in particular of fully automatic, strands protruding from a tension wire at the start and at the end of the seam at each end of a passage of a stitch, such as a overlock in which the tension thread is placed simultaneously with the stitching of the stitch, so that it can slide longitudinally and / or laterally.
  • the invention also aims to allow the realization, in particular of fully automatic, loops of the tension thread released from said passage partly running seam.
  • the invention aims in particular to propose such a method which authorizes the complete automation of an object wrapping process, such as a seat cover, by a flexible cover, as described by EP-0 223 312 and / or US-4 732 097.
  • the invention aims in this regard to allow productivity gains, savings in labor and raw materials.
  • the invention also aims to achieve the above goals in a simple and economical way using a simple and inexpensive modification brought to a known sewing machine, in particular an overlock machine as described by EP-0 223 312 and / or US-4 732 097.
  • the invention therefore also aims to propose a sewing machine allowing the implementation of a method according to the invention.
  • the invention aims more particularly to propose such a sewing machine obtainable with a simple modification to a known sewing machine, in particular an overlock machine as described by EP-0 223,312 and / or US-4,732,097, after its manufacture.
  • upstream and downstream are used in reference to the direction of sewing by the stitching means of the machine, and to the direction of drive of the part by these stitching means which is therefore driven upstream downstream.
  • the direction of sewing and training of the piece is assumed be horizontal, for the sake of clarity, although this provision, the most common in practice, is not strictly essential in the context of the invention.
  • transverse displacement designates any displacement relative to the direction of sewing and training, having at least one component in a transverse plane perpendicular to the sewing direction and drive by the stitching means.
  • lateral displacement we mean everything transverse displacement also having at least one horizontal component, i.e.
  • vertical displacement designates any displacement comprising at least one transverse component at least substantially perpendicular to the part to be sewn and to the work-holding plate, i.e. in a plane defined by the sewing direction and by the direction of movement of a needle.
  • a transverse displacement can therefore be a displacement lateral without vertical displacement, vertical displacement without lateral displacement, or a combination of lateral displacement and vertical displacement.
  • stitching and “stitched” and their derivatives are used, unless otherwise indicated, broadly to denote the formation of any stitch with threads, without implying that all threads actually cross the thickness of the sewn piece.
  • the expression “means of stitching” generally designates all means making it possible to achieve a point sewing (within the meaning of standard AFNOR NF G 05-002 whose terminology is adopted in the present application) with one or more sons, and includes in particular one or more needles and / or one or more hooks or loosers.
  • the invention therefore relates to a method of sewing, on a piece to be sewn and in a sewing direction, a stitch made up of threads, said auxiliary threads, using stitching means of a sewing machine, this point of sewing being of the type forming a passage extending in the direction of sewing, with a thread, called tension thread, guided and placed in this passage simultaneously when stitching the auxiliary wires, so that they can slide longitudinally and / or laterally in this passage, characterized in that it is moved transversely by relative to the stitching means, at least a portion of the tension thread extending to upstream immediately downstream of the stitching means, between a normal position for placing the tension wire in the passage and a release position for said portion of the tension wire where it is inclined relative to the direction of stitching of the stitch, and passes, opposite the stitching means, outside of the area of action of the stitching means and outside said passage, to allow in particular the sectioning independently of the auxiliary wires from the point of sewing and / or tension thread by at least one sectioning knife
  • said portion of tension wire extends upstream and at least immediately downstream of the stitching means, avoids, by this fact alone, almost any risk of blockage of the tension thread by the threads auxiliaries which cannot be stitched so as to pass through the thickness of the voltage.
  • the tension wire is clear of the passage and the action zone of the stitching means when it passes opposite and to the right of the stitching means. It is additionally possible to synchronize the stitching means and the displacement transverse of said portion of tension wire to prevent this displacement takes place simultaneously with a downward movement of a stitching needle.
  • sewing machines such as overcasters, overlockers, overlockers and shavers ... sewing on the edge of pieces include a work plate that extends laterally from a frame machine engine.
  • a first variant of the invention applicable especially to form protruding strands of the tension wire at the ends of sewing, advantageously and according to the invention, to pass from the normal position in the disengaged position, said portion of the tension thread is moved laterally to the side of a work-holding plate and opposite to a motor frame of the sewing machine.
  • a guide piece is moved transversely which is distinct from a pressing member.
  • This guide piece is for example formed of a guide eyelet, crossed by the tension wire, and arranged at the downstream outlet of the member upstream presser.
  • an upstream pressing member carrying means for guiding the wire tension and the workpiece is driven by a downstream drive member arranged immediately downstream of the stitching means.
  • the upstream pressing device is especially a crowbar and / or a rotary member (wheel, roller, roller ...) driven in rotation by a specific or free motor member in rotation about an axis transverse.
  • the downstream drive member is in particular a downstream presser foot and / or a downstream rotary member, or a downstream drive claw.
  • the upstream pressing member is moved laterally outside the area of action of the stitching means, and outside said passage.
  • the member is also moved upstream presser vertically and upwards to avoid, in release position, any contact of this upstream pressing member with the workpiece.
  • the invention provides for at least partially sewing while the pressing member upstream is released and is therefore no longer applied in a functional position on the part to be to sew. It turned out in practice that this is possible without any difficulty, thanks to the downstream drive member which can drive the workpiece and / or the auxiliary threads forming the stitch and / or the tension thread avoiding any malfunction, and in particular any jamming phenomenon.
  • an upstream pressing member can be moved to form strands protruding from the tension thread at the ends of the seam, and a separate guide piece can be moved laterally and / or vertically a pressing member (for example an eyelet) to form loops of the thread tension released from said passage in the running part of the seam.
  • one moves laterally said portion of the tension wire a sufficient distance to clear and move the tension wire laterally, on the one hand outside the area of action of the stitching means, and on the other hand outside the area of action of a first auxiliary wire cutting knife arranged downstream - in particular immediately downstream of the stitching means.
  • This first knife is used to cut the auxiliary threads from the stitch without the risk of cutting simultaneously the tension wire.
  • said portion is replaced tension thread in the normal position before operating the second knife sectioning.
  • a sewing machine any machine comprising at least one mechanism, called a sewing head, incorporating sewing means (stitching means, work-holding plate, drives, wire guides, ).
  • a sewing machine consists of a supporting or built structure, at least one sewing head mounted on the frame, drive motor means carried by the frame (in general at least one electric motor), and control means (pedal (s), button (s), automaton (s) or digital system (s) and / or computer (s) ...) carried by the frame.
  • the terms “sewing machine” can therefore designate either a sewing head insulated, i.e. a more complete set comprising at least one sewing head and other associated bodies as mentioned above.
  • the invention also extends to a sewing machine -in particular a traditional sewing machine modified after its manufacture - for setting work of a method according to the invention.
  • the invention therefore relates to a sewing machine comprising means for stitching at least one sewing point formed of auxiliary threads on a sewing piece, in a sewing direction, this stitch being of the type forming a passage extending in the direction of sewing, and means for guiding a wire, called tension wire, for its positioning in the passage simultaneously with the stitching of the auxiliary wires, so that this tension wire can slide longitudinally and / or laterally in this passage, characterized in that it comprises means, known as tension wire release means, to move transversely relative to the stitching means, at least one portion of the tension wire extending upstream and immediately downstream of the means of stitching, between a normal position for placing the tension thread in the passage, and a release position of said portion of the tension wire where it is inclined relative to the sewing direction and passes, opposite the means of stitching, outside the area of action of the stitching means and outside said passage, to allow in particular the sectioning independently of the wires auxiliary of the stitch and / or the tension thread by at least one knife sectioning arranged downstream of the stitch
  • the means of tension wire clearance are adapted to be able to move transversely to minus said portion of the tension thread during sewing of the stitch by the means of stitching.
  • the invention also advantageously relates to a machine comprising a motor frame and a work-holding plate extending generally over one side of the engine mount from the stitching means, characterized in that the tension wire release means are adapted to move laterally said portion of the tension wire on the side of the work-holding plate and opposite the engine mount, out of said passage, from the normal position to the release position.
  • the release means are adapted to move vertically, in particular upwards, said portion of the tensioning wire away from it upwards the piece to be sewn, beyond the area of action of the stitching means.
  • the invention also advantageously relates to a machine in which the stitching means comprise at least one needle, and comprising means for driving the sewing piece, characterized in that the means drive comprise at least one member, called downstream drive member, disposed immediately downstream of the needle, and in that the release means tension wire are adapted to transversely move at least a portion tension wire extending upstream from the downstream drive member.
  • the guide means of the tension wire comprise at least one upstream guide piece disposed at upstream of the stitching means and carried by support means suitable for ability to place guide piece in normal position where it guides tension thread in relation to the stitch, or in the thread release position tension in which it is moved transversely relative to the means of stitching, so that these means for supporting the upstream guide piece (s) act as means for releasing the tension wire.
  • the means of tension wire release include means adapted to be able transversely move at least one guide piece which is separate from a pressure member.
  • the means of tension wire release include at least one actuator to double action - notably a pneumatic cylinder or an electromagnet - allowing to transversely move the tension thread between the normal position and the position tension wire clearance, and vice versa.
  • the tension wire guide means comprise at least one guide piece lateral of the tension wire and of the means for supporting this guide part by relative to a frame of the machine, and the means for supporting this guide part are adapted to be able to place it in the normal position in which it guides the wire tension in relation to the stitch, or in the side release position of the tension wire in which it is moved laterally relative to the means of stitching, so that these means for supporting the guide piece act as tension wire release means.
  • the means for supporting an upstream guide part are adapted to ability to place guide piece in normal position where it guides tension thread in relation to the stitch, or in the vertical release position tension wire in which the guide piece is moved vertically, especially upwards, relative to the stitching means.
  • the invention also relates to a machine comprising means for guiding the tension thread formed and / or carried by a pressing member upstream drive of the sewing piece, and means for supporting the member upstream presser relative to a machine frame; suitable for applying, in active position, the upstream pressing member in contact with the workpiece, characterized in that the support means are adapted to be able to place the pressing member upstream in the tension wire release position in which the pressing member upstream and the tension wire guide means are moved laterally by relative to the stitching means, so that these means for supporting the member upstream presser acts as means for releasing the tension wire.
  • the actuator is mounted on the frame so that the actuating rod can exert, in the normal position, a pressing pressure on the arm in the direction of application of the upstream pressing member on the workpiece.
  • the connecting rod has a twist so as to generate, from a translational movement accompanied by a proper rotation of the actuation, movements of lateral displacement of the upstream pressing member by pivoting of the arm around the vertical axis, and of vertical displacement of the upstream pressing member by pivoting of the arm around the transverse horizontal axis.
  • the machine comprises a first knife for cutting the auxiliary wires, arranged downstream of the means of stitching, and said tension wire release means are adapted for move at least said portion of the tension thread laterally by a distance sufficient to clear the tension thread laterally from the first knife sectioning of auxiliary wires.
  • the machine comprises two wire cutting knives, the first disposed downstream of the means of stitching for cutting the auxiliary threads of the overlock, the second disposed at the downstream of the first at a distance corresponding to the length of a strand of wire tension, said overhang strand, to be left beyond a start end of the seam formed by the stitch on a next piece of sewing.
  • the first knife is disposed immediately downstream and near the downstream drive member.
  • the machine includes means for automatically guiding the workpiece by relative to the guide means and, where appropriate, to the knife (s) sectioning, and automatic control means of the means of release of the tension wire and, if necessary, of the knife (s) sectioning.
  • the guide means automatic sewing piece include a suitable gripper robot and programmed to move the piece to be sewn on a work holding plate of the machine as the seam is executed.
  • the means for automatically guiding the workpiece and the means for automatic control of the tension wire release means include a programmable digital system adapted and programmed to check, as and when sewing, the stitching means, the movements of the workpiece, the tension thread release means and the sectioning knife (s).
  • the execution of the seam according to the invention can be fully automatic and be part of an automatic dressing process objects such as seat upholstery.
  • the invention is more particularly and advantageously applicable to the execution of a stitch which is an overlock, in particular an overlock with one, two, three, four or five sewing threads (auxiliary threads).
  • the machine according to the invention is then advantageously an overlocker, in particular an overlocker stitcher.
  • the invention automatically allows sewing during disengage the sliding tension thread from the passage formed by the stitch, and put it back in normal position to form either loops of tension thread clear of the passage in the main part, i.e. the ends of the tension wire beyond the ends of the passage.
  • the loops in the running part allow by example the hanging of the tension wire on hooks or studs of an object to garnish and / or exert a tension in the running part of the edge of the piece.
  • the end strands provide traction on the tension wire and block the tension wire in the stretched state. It should be noted that the formation of these loops and / or these end strands do not deprive the tension wire of its sliding possibilities in the passage. Indeed, the invention makes it possible to prevent the tension wire from being crossed and blocked by the auxiliary sewing threads.
  • the invention further relates to a method and a machine. characterized in combination by all or some of the characteristics mentioned above or below.
  • the sewing machine according to the invention shown in the figures is an overlock sewing machine, i.e. a machine suitable for cutting the edge of a sewing piece 1 (flexible cover of fabric, leather, synthetic or other materials) using a side knife 2, and execute a overlock stitch 3 with auxiliary sewing threads 4.
  • auxiliary wires 4 we can use transparent nylon threads (330 denier) of small diameter or any other industrial sewing thread.
  • EP-0 223 312 and US-4 735 097 already describe the general characteristics of such a sewing machine and of the method of covering objects, such as seat upholstery, which can be implemented using such a machine. In consequence, only the characteristics specific to the invention object of the present request, will be detailed below.
  • the sewing machine includes stitching means 5, 6, 7, which in the example shown, are formed by a needle 5, a looper hook upper 6, and a lower hook 7. These means 5 to 7 for stitching allow make a three-thread overlock stitch.
  • the invention nevertheless also extends to any another overlock point, the machine also being equipped with stitching means corresponding, or more generally, to any stitch for making a longitudinal passage P in which a tension wire 8 distinct from the auxiliary wires (i.e. which is not one of the threads forming said stitch) can be introduced, this tension wire 8 being able to slide longitudinally and / or laterally in passage P.
  • the tension thread 8 can be formed of a nylon thread, or of a cord or cord, or an elastic or other thread.
  • the machine sewing also includes means 9 to 10 for driving the part 1 to be sewn in and through the stitching means 5 to 7.
  • the machine basically includes a motor frame 12 and a work holding plate 13 extending generally on one side engine mount 12 from the stitching means 5.
  • Means 9 to 11 drive drive part 1 in a sewing direction D which extends the along the side of the engine mount 12 from which the work plate 13 extends laterally.
  • the means 9 to 11 of drive comprise a set of claws motorized lower 9 (i.e.
  • the upstream pressing member 10 is, in the example depicted, a traditional crowbar.
  • the downstream drive member 11 shown is a motorized upper claw synchronized with part of the claws 9 lower disposed downstream of the stitching means 5 to 7. Alternatively no shown, the downstream drive member 11 can also be formed with a single foot presser which presses the piece 1 on the lower claws 9.
  • the side cutter 2 extends immediately upstream of the stitching means 5 to 7 for cutting or shaving the edge of the piece 1 before the execution of the overlock stitch.
  • the upstream pressing member 10 carries a guide piece 14 of the tension wire 8.
  • This guide piece 14 is, in the example shown, in the form of a bent tube section extending over the side of the presser foot 10 oriented towards the engine mount 12, so that the tension wire is immediately guided upstream of the stitching means 5 to 7 parallel to the sewing direction D, in the axis of the passage P produced by the overlock point.
  • Tension wire 8 is brought to the guide piece 14 from a reserve coil by at least one guide member 15 secured to the engine mount 12.
  • the machine also includes a first knife 16 of sectioning (for example a knife reference C-GEX T07, sold by the C-GEX SYSTEM'S (France)) disposed immediately downstream of the means 9 to 11 of training and means 5 to 7 of stitching, namely immediately downstream of the downstream drive member 11.
  • the machine also includes a second knife 17 (for example an offset knife sold by the company C-GEX SYSTEM'S (France)) sectioning arranged in the axis of the first knife 16 in the sewing direction D, downstream, at a distance d1 from the first knife 16 corresponding to the desired length for a protruding strand 18 of the tension 8 to be left free beyond an end 19 at the start of the overlock stitch 3.
  • a first knife 16 of sectioning for example a knife reference C-GEX T07, sold by the C-GEX SYSTEM'S (France)
  • the machine also includes a second knife 17 (for example an offset knife sold by the company C-GEX SYSTEM'S (France))
  • Each of the sectioning knives 16, 17 is motorized with using an actuating motor member 20, respectively 21, which can be a pneumatic cylinder, an electromagnet, or any other similar actuating member.
  • Each knife 16, 17 is for example constituted by a movable blade which can pivot about an axis parallel to the sewing direction D, and a fixed blade extending at level of the work-holding plate 13 in the transverse direction by crossing the sewing direction D.
  • the movable and fixed blades act in the manner of scissors for cutting the wires passing over the fixed blade, the movable blade being driven to pivot down.
  • the upstream pressing member 10 with the guide piece 14 is carried by support means 22, 23, 24 which comprise an arm 22 articulated at the frame 12 of the machine, an actuating member 23 with double action (i.e. can be controlled in two opposite directions) whose body 26 is carried by the frame 12, and having an actuating rod 25 movable in axial translation in one direction or in the other relative to the frame 12, and a connecting rod 24 connecting the arm 22 and the actuating rod 25.
  • the arm 22 extends generally parallel to the sewing direction D, above work-holder 13, at least substantially in a horizontal direction.
  • the downstream end 29 of the arm 22 is articulated to the frame 12 of the machine, by means of articulation, in a suitable manner so that the arm 22 can pivot around a vertical axis 27 and around an axis transverse horizontal 28.
  • the actuating member 23 is for example a jack double action tire whose body 26 is carried by the frame 12 according to a direction at least substantially vertical, slightly inclined downwards and towards upstream in the example shown.
  • the upstream end 30 of the arm 22 carries the member upstream presser 10 with the guide piece 14 of the tension wire 8.
  • the free end of the actuating rod 25 of the member actuator 23 is adapted to be able to exercise, in normal position, a pressing pressure on the arm 22 in the direction of application of the pressing member upstream 10 on the part 1 to be sewn, that is to say downwards and towards the work-holding plate 13.
  • the end of the actuating rod 25 indeed comes to bear against the arm 22 when the actuating rod 25, oriented downward relative to the body 26, is in the fully deployed state.
  • the end of the actuating rod 25 is advantageously formed of a flat 31 defining a vertical lateral face against which the articulated arm 22 abuts laterally. So the actuating rod 25 also limits the possibilities of pivoting of the arm 22, and therefore of the member upstream presser 10 horizontally to the frame 12.
  • the flat 31 also defines a shoulder which bears on the upper edge 20 of the arm 22 to apply the upstream pressing member vertically downwards as described above.
  • the connecting rod 24 has a twist in its direction longitudinal, so as to generate, from a translational movement accompanied by a proper rotation (around its axis of translation) of the rod actuation 25, lateral displacement movements of the pressing member upstream 10 by pivoting of the arm 22 around the vertical axis 27, and displacement vertical of the upstream pressing member 10 by pivoting of the arm 22 about the axis horizontal transverse 28.
  • the link 24 is connected to the arm 22 by a light 32 longitudinal formed in this rod 24, in which a slide 33 integral with the arm 22 can slide.
  • the slide 33 is for example simply consisting of a head screw passing through the lumen 32 and engaged in a thread corresponding arm 22.
  • the connecting rod 24 is also fixed integral with the actuating rod 25 by a collar 34 tightened by a screw.
  • actuating rod 25 turns on itself around its longitudinal axis.
  • This rotational movement clean, and the pivoting of the arm 22 around the vertical axis 27 may result from the torsion of the connecting rod 24 and / or be obtained by means 35, 36 specific guide in proper rotation of the actuating rod 25 during these translational movements.
  • a sleeve 35 is fixed secured to the actuating rod 25 by any appropriate means (keys, screws radial ...), this sleeve 35 carries at least one radial stud 51 extending in projection outwards and which cooperates with inclined bearing surfaces 52 of shapes suitable provided in a socket 36, itself carried by the frame 12 which it is united.
  • the actuating rod 25 and its sleeve 35 pass axially through the socket 36.
  • the stud 51 of the sleeve 35 and the bearing surfaces 52 of the socket 36 are adapted to cause a proper rotation of the rod 25 about its axis in a direction or in the other when the latter moves in translation, in one direction or the other.
  • the means 22, 23, 24 for supporting the pressing member upstream 10 act, with the guide piece 14, of wire release means of tension 8, and are adapted to move transversely, laterally, opposite of the engine mount 12, and vertically a portion 37 of the tension wire 8 which extends between the downstream drive member 11 and the guide piece 14.
  • This portion 37 of the tension wire is that which extends on the one hand immediately downstream of the means 5, 6, 7 stitching, to the downstream drive member 11, and immediately upstream means 5, 6, 7 for stitching, up to the guide piece 14.
  • this portion 37 of the tension wire is that which extends immediately downstream and towards upstream from the stitching means 5, 6, 7.
  • This portion 37 of the tension wire is that which passes through the action zone of the stitching means 5, 6, 7, and which is in sewing classes.
  • the means 14, 22, 23, 24 of release are adapted so that the guide piece 14 can be placed either in the normal position where it guides the wire tension 8 in the sewing direction D in the passage P as described above, either in the release position in which the portion 37 of the tension thread 8 is moved laterally and vertically upward relative to the means of stitching 5, 6, 7, and inclined relative to the sewing direction D to pass, in view of the stitching means 5, 6, 7, outside the area of action of the means 5, 6, 7 of stitching and outside the passage P formed by the overlock stitch.
  • Figures 1, 3 and 10 show the upstream pressing member 10 and the guide piece 14 in normal position, the tension thread 8 being normally engaged in passage P defined by the overlock 3 along the edge of the piece 1 to to sew. From this normal position, and even during sewing, i.e. without interruption of the stitching means 5 to 7, it is possible to place, by actuation of the jack 23, the upstream pressing member 10 and the guide piece 14 in the position release ( Figures 2, 4, 5 and 11). Therefore, the portion 37 of the tension wire 8 extending between the downstream drive member 11 and the guide piece 14 present a lateral and upward inclination with respect to the sewing direction D.
  • this provision in particular avoids the sting of the tension wire 8 by the needle 5 since the entire portion 37 of the tension thread 8 extending upstream at from the downstream drive member 11 is moved laterally and inclined by relative to the sewing direction D. The tension thread 8 is therefore not crossed by one auxiliary threads 4 of the seam.
  • Figure 5 shows the layout obtained after training a few additional overlock stitches, the intersection between the portion 37 of the thread of tension 8 and the seam of the overlock stitch 3 being moved downstream, the portion 37 tension wire being released laterally from the downstream drive member 11 and first sectioning knife 16.
  • the portion 37 of the tension thread 8 is released from this first knife 16 which, when is actuated as shown in figure 5, only cuts the overlock stitch 3, i.e. as the auxiliary threads 4, to form an end end 53 of the overlock stitch 3 for piece 1 to be sewn at the end of the seam, and a start end 19 of the stitch overlock 3 for the next sewing piece 1.
  • this overlock 3 can still be sewn on piece 1 on a certain length.
  • a few overlock stitches have been depicted on the piece 1, extended by a few overlock stitches stitched out of piece 1.
  • the upstream pressing member 10 can be kept in position free in the running part of the seam overlock (and not at the ends) then continue sewing overlock 3 on piece 1, then replace the upstream presser 10 in normal sewing position to continue sewing overlock 3.
  • a strand of tension thread 8 released from the overlock 3 in the running part that is to say a tension wire loop 8 which can be used for example for hanging and tension of part 1 on a support.
  • FIG. 6 a subsequent position is shown in which the upstream portion 37 of the tension thread 8 released outside the passage P of the overlock 3 is brought opposite and into the second cutting knife 17, then cut by this second knife 17.
  • the upstream pressing member 10 has previously been brought back and the guide piece 14 in normal position (by controlling the jack 23 in the direction of descent of the actuating rod 25).
  • the stitching means 5, 6, 7 are interrupted and the drive means 9, 10, 11.
  • the part 1 is then provided with a protruding strand 38 of the tension thread 8 which is left free outside the overlock 3 at the end sewing.
  • the length d2 of this protruding strand 38 depends on the length of the portion of tension wire 8 which has been scrolled downstream from and beyond the second sectioning knife 17.
  • the part 1 also includes a protruding strand 18 which was previously formed at the start of the seam, the length of which d1 depends on the distance between the second knife 17 and the first knife 16.
  • the second knife 17 is fixed on the machine so as to allow adjustments to the position of the second knife 17, and therefore of this length d1.
  • the second knife 17 is carried entirely (movable blade and fixed blade) by a frame 54 ( Figure 16) which is slidably mounted on a runner 55 extending parallel to the sewing direction D downstream from the engine mount 12 of the machine to which it is fixed.
  • a tightening button 56 to wheel locks the frame 54 in place on the slide 55 after adjustment.
  • the fixed blade of the knife 17 is formed by a plate 57 placed on the work-holding plate 13.
  • the frame 54 also advantageously carries a drive member actuation 21 of the knife 17.
  • the tension of the auxiliary thread 4 of the overlock 3 in particular at least the tension of the auxiliary thread 4 needle, and auxiliary thread 4 of upper hook.
  • the machine according to the invention is provided with a double-acting actuator, such as a jack tire 39 whose actuating rod carries at least one shim 40 adapted to be able to engage between the pressure washers adjusting the tension of the thread 4 of needle and upper hook ( Figure 1). In normal position, the wedge of thickness 40 is released out of these pressure washers, so that the tension wires and the one obtained in the traditional way by the settings made on the machine.
  • the actuator 23 for actuating the release means When the actuator 23 for actuating the release means is actuated in the direction of return of the guide piece 14 in the normal position, the jack 39 carrying the wedge 40 is simultaneously actuated to engage the wedge 40 thickness, in the pressure washers of the needle thread and the hook thread upper, and fully relax the auxiliary wires 4. In this way, the tension 8 exceeds the needle 5 towards the engine mount 12 or abuts against this needle 5 and will overtake it on its next ascent. This is to avoid the passage of the needle 5 through the tension thread 8 and therefore the blocking of this thread tension 8 on the part 1 which would hamper its possibilities of later sliding in the passage P of overlock 3.
  • the part 1 After sectioning of overlock stitch 3 by the first knife 16, and until the tensioning wire 8 is cut by the second knife 17, the part 1 is moved downstream so that a length corresponding to the sum d1 + d2 of the lengths of the protruding strands 18, 38 of the tension thread at the start and at the end of the seam be deployed and extend downstream from the first knife 16.
  • These movements of the part 1 on the work-holding plate 13 and relative to the machine can be obtained by means 41 to 44 for automatically guiding the sewing piece 1 (figure 17).
  • These means 41 to 44 for example consist of a gantry 41 extending in particular above the work-holding plate 13 and carrying a vertical column 42 at the lower end of which is fixed a tray 43 provided with means for gripping the part 1, the assembly being controlled in its movements by a 44 digital programmable system (PLC, system computer science).
  • PLC digital programmable system
  • the gantry 41 is adapted to allow movement in translation of the column 42 and of the plate 43 in the two horizontal directions.
  • the column 42 and the plate 43 are adapted so that the latter can on the one hand be controlled, relative to the work-holding plate 13, in proper rotation around a vertical axis, and on the other hand be controlled in upward or downward translations in the vertical direction.
  • the assembly therefore constitutes a suitable gripping robot and programmed to move part 1 on the work holding plate 13 of the machine to as you sew.
  • This robot is also suitable for taking a part 1 on a pile 58 of waiting sewing pieces, and engage it under the pressing device upstream 10 of the machine at the start of sewing.
  • This robot is also programmed to move piece 1 at the end of sewing by the distance d1 + d2, using the tension 8 in the second knife 17 as described above, then to place each piece sewn on a stack 59 of pieces sewn.
  • the digital system programmable 44 is also programmed to control the various organs 23, 39, and the general operation of the machine, in particular the drive means 9 to 11, and the stitching means 5 to 7.
  • the plate 43 is provided with means for gripping the parts 1 allowing to take one, and only one piece 1 from the stack 58 of pieces to sew, then release piece 1 on pile 59 after sewing.
  • These means of gripping can be done in any suitable way, depending on the nature of the parts 1, by suction cup (air suction), by fabric gripping claws (such as claws reference SCH 20 or ST 36 sold by SOMMER AUTOMATIC (Germany)), by repositionable self-adhesive, by means hooking type with buckles and claws (VELCRO, registered trademark), by static electricity, by pinching ...
  • the invention can be the subject of several variants with respect to to the embodiment described above.
  • the means of release are formed by a horizontal cylinder 45 whose body 46 is carried by the frame 12, and whose actuating rod 47 is connected to a guide eyelet 48 crossed by the tension wire 8.
  • This eyelet 48 is disposed, in the normal position, at the downstream outlet of the guide piece (tube) 14 carried by the upstream pressing member 10; The eyelet 48 is nevertheless provided upstream with the means 5, 6, 7 for stitching.
  • the eyelet 48 guide is thus itself a lateral guide piece of the tension wire 8 which is arranged downstream of the upstream pressing member 10 and of the guide piece 14 which it door, and upstream means 5, 6, 7 of stitching, so that this eyelet 48 of guide moves laterally the portion of the tension wire 8 extending between the member downstream drive 11 and the output of the guide piece 14 carried by the member upstream presser 10.
  • the jack 45 is adapted to be able to place the eyelet 48, either in normal position opposite the outlet of the guide piece 14, either in a laterally released position in which the eyelet 48 is laterally spread at the opposite of the frame 12 and beyond the upstream pressing member 10, to move laterally the portion 37 of tension wire 8 ( Figure 18).
  • the upstream pressing device 10 must have an appropriate shape to allow movement in translation transverse of the actuating rod 47 actuating the actuator 45 and the eyelet 48.
  • the upstream pressing member 10 is carried by a support arm 49 which must be positioned sufficiently upstream so that the eyelet 48 moves downstream of this support arm 49, the tension wire 8 not passing upstream of this arm 49 of support.
  • the organ upstream presser 10 is carried by a fixed support arm 49, by built protractor 12, and the articulated arm 22 carries a guide piece 61 in the form of a tube, similar to the guide piece 14 of the first variant, but which is dissociated from the member upstream presser 10.
  • the arm 22 is controlled in its movements by the jack 23 and the connecting rod 24 as described for the first variant.
  • the support arm 49 of the upstream pressing member 10 must then extend between the guide piece 61 and the engine mount 12, so that the guide piece 61 of the tension wire 8 can be move laterally freely relative to the upstream pressing member opposite the frame 12 as shown in FIG. 19.
  • the shape of the upstream pressing member 10 is slightly modified to extend further upstream of the side cutter 2 and laterally on the side of the frame 12 than in the embodiments previously described.
  • Figures 20 to 22 has the advantage additional to be able to avoid with certainty this stitching (crossed) of the tension 8 by needle 5 without requiring synchronization.
  • this variant one can pre-orient the loops released from passage P more or less vertically with respect to part 1 to be sewn.
  • an eyelet 48 for guiding the tension thread 8 is, as in the variant of FIG. 18, crossed by the tension wire 8 and arranged at downstream of the downstream outlet of the guide piece 14 carried by the upstream pressing member 10 and upstream of the means 5, 6, 7 for stitching.
  • This eyelet 48 is formed at the free end of a rod 63 articulated freely pivoting about a horizontal axis 64 parallel to the direction longitudinal stitching D, at the end 65 of a screw / nut system 66 carried by the actuating rod 67 of a first horizontal cylinder 68 with double action, the body of which 69 is fixed to the frame 12.
  • the screw / nut system 66 allows the length between the end 65 carrying the axis 64 of articulation of the rod 63, and a support arm 70 carried by the actuating rod 67.
  • the support arm 70 carries the body 71 of a second double-acting cylinder 72 whose actuating rod 73 is articulated to a rod 74 integral, in rotation about the axis 64, with the rod 63 carrying the eyelet 48.
  • the second cylinder 72 is therefore carried by the actuating rod 67 of the first cylinder 68.
  • the rod 74 extends upwards, at an angle of approximately 90 ° with the rod 63 carrying the guide eyelet 48.
  • the upper actuator 67 of the first cylinder 68 is retracted and the actuation rod 73 of the second cylinder 72 is deployed.
  • the rod 63 extends at least substantially horizontally, and the guide eyelet 48 and the tension thread 8 are in position normal sewing.
  • a loop 62 of tension wire 8 thus released from the passage P not passing under the needle 5 to form the loops 62, there is no risk of pricking the tension thread 8 and blocking it, regardless of when the first cylinder 68 is actuated.
  • the loops 62 thus formed extend at least substantially vertically upwards from part 1, and are thus pre-oriented. This variant is more particularly applicable in the case of a wire elastic tension 8.
  • the loops 62 regularly distributed along the edge of the part 1 allow to garnish and dress with this part 1 an object endowed with hooks or attachment studs, the part 1 being tensioned by the tension wire 8.
  • the tension wire guide piece 8 may be disposed between the support 49 of the upstream presser foot 10 and the engine mount 12, or immediately upstream of the upstream presser foot 10. It is possible to program a movement of upward movement of the upstream presser foot 10 simultaneously with the movement lateral of the guide piece which will then pass under this upstream presser foot 10. In this latter variant, it is however necessary to provide a first member actuator for displacements of the guide piece, and a second member actuation can be controlled by the digital system 44 to raise the upstream presser foot 10.
  • the machine according to the invention can be easily obtained by simple modification and addition to a traditional overlock sewing machine such as that described and represented in EP-0 223 312 and / or US-4 732 097. It suffices indeed to modify the support device for the upstream presser foot 10, and to add the downstream drive member 11 with its associated drive means, by coupling it to the drive means of the lower feed dogs 9.
  • the invention may be the subject of other variants of embodiment,
  • the invention is applicable with other sewing stitches than an overlock and therefore to other machines than overlockers, as soon as the seam forms a passage in which a tension thread can be inserted.

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Claims (27)

  1. Verfahren zum Nähen von aus Fäden, Hilfsfäden (4) genannt, bestehenden Stichen (3) auf einem zu nähenden Stück (1) und in einer Nährichtung mit Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) einer Nähmaschine, wobei diese Stiche (3) derart sind, dass sie eine Passage (P) bilden, die in der Nährichtung (D) verläuft, mit einem Faden, Spannfaden (8) genannt, der geführt und in dieser Passage (P) gleichzeitig mit dem Durchnähen der Hilfsfäden (4) so platziert wird, dass er in Längs- und/oder Seitenrichtung in dieser Passage (P) gleiten kann, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass relativ zu den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) wenigstens ein Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens (8), der von oberhalb bis unmittelbar unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) verläuft, zwischen einer Normalposition, in der der Spannfaden (8) in der Passage (P) platziert wird, und einer Position zum Lösen des genannten Abschnitts (37) des Spannfadens (8) quer verschoben wird, wo er relativ zur Nährichtung (D) der Stiche geneigt ist und gegenüber den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) über den Aktionsbereich der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) und über die Passage (P) hinaus passiert, um insbesondere ein unabhängiges Abschneiden der Hilfsfäden (4) der Stiche (3) und/oder des Spannfadens (8) mit wenigstens einem Schneidmesser (16, 17) zulässt, das unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) angeordnet ist, und/oder die Bildung von Schlaufen (62) des Spannfadens (8), die von der genannten Passage (P) während des Nähens gelöst werden.
  2. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass wenigstens der genannte Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens (8) während des Nähens der Stiche (3) von den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) verschoben wird.
  3. Verfahren nach Anspruch 1 oder 2, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass für den Übergang von der Normalposition zur Löseposition der genannte Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens (8) lateral zu der Seite einer Werkstückhalterplatte (13) und gegenüber einem Motorgestell (12) der Nähmaschine verschoben wird.
  4. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 3, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der genannte Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens für den Übergang von der Normalposition zur Löseposition vertikal dadurch verschoben wird, dass er von dem zu nähenden Stück (1) nach oben über den Wirkungsbereich der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) hinaus bewegt wird.
  5. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 4, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass zum Querverschieben des genannten Abschnitts (37) des Spannfadens wenigstens ein Führungsteil (14, 48) für den Spannfaden (8) quer verschoben wird, der oberhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) angeordnet ist.
  6. Verfahren nach Anspruch 5, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass wenigstens ein Führungsteil (48, 61) quer verschoben wird, der sich von einer Pressereinheit unterscheidet.
  7. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 6, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass eine der Maschine vorgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) quer verschoben wird, die ein Mittel (14) zum Führen des Spannfadens (8) trägt, und dadurch, dass das Teil (1) von einem nachgeschalteten Mitnahmemechanismus (11) bewegt wird, der unmittelbar unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) angeordnet ist.
  8. Verfahren nach Anspruch 7, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die nachgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) lateral so verschoben wird, dass sie den genannten Abschnitt (37) lateral über den Wirkungsbereich der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) und über die Passage (P) hinaus löst, und dadurch, dass die nachgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) ebenfalls vertikal und nach oben verschoben wird, um in der Löseposition jeglichen Kontakt dieser vorgeschalteten Pressereinheit (10) mit dem zu nähenden Teil (1) zu verhindern.
  9. Verfahren nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 8, um es zuzulassen, dass ein Spannfadenstrang, Verlängerungsstrang (18, 38) genannt, über ein vorderes Ende und über ein hinteres Ende der durch die Stiche (3) gebildeten Naht verläuft, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass am Ende des Nähens:
    der genannte Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens (8) lateral um einen Abstand verschoben wird, der ausreicht, um den Spannfaden (8) zu lösen und ihn lateral von einem ersten Schneidmesser (16) zum Schneiden der Hilfsfäden (4) weg zu bewegen, das sich unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) befindet;
    das Nähen der Stiche (3) so lange fortgesetzt wird, bis der Spannfaden (8) lateral relativ zu einem ersten nachgeschalteten Schneidmesser (16) gelöst wird;
    das erste Schneidmesser (16) betätigt wird, um die Hilfsfäden (4) der Stiche (3) abzuschneiden, und das Nähen von den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) unterbrochen wird;
    das Stück (1) in Abwärtsrichtung für eine Länge verschoben wird, die der Summe (d1 + d2) der Längen der Verlängerungsstränge (18, 38) des Spannfadens (8) entspricht, der am Anfang und am Ende des Nähens gebildet wird;
    der Teil des zu schneidenden Spannfadens (8) einbezogen wird, um den Verlängerungsstrang (38) am Ende des zu nähenden Stückes von dem Verlängerungsstrang (18) am Anfang eines nachfolgenden zu nähenden Stückes mit einem zweiten Messer (17) abzutrennen;
    das zweite Schneidmesser (17) betätigt wird; und
    die Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7), das Mittel (14) zum Führen des Spannfadens und der genannte Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens zum Aufnehmen und Nähen eines nächsten zu nähenden Stückes in eine Normalposition zurückkehren.
  10. Verfahren nach Anspruch 9, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der genannte Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens (8) in eine Normalposition zurückgebracht wird, bevor das zweite Schneidmesser (17) betätigt wird.
  11. Nähmaschine für die Implementation eines Verfahrens nach einem der Ansprüche 1 bis 10, umfassend Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) für wenigstens einen aus Hilfsnähten (4) gebildeten Stich (3) auf einem in einer Nährichtung (D) zu nähenden Teil (1), wobei diese(r) Stich(e) (3) derart ist/sind, dass er/sie eine Passage (P) bildet/n, die in der Nährichtung (D) verläuft, und Mittel (14, 48, 61) zum Führen eines Fadens, Spannfaden (8) genannt, um diesen in der Passage (P) gleichzeitig mit dem Durchnähen der Hilfsfäden (4) so zu platzieren, dass er in Längs- und/oder Seitenrichtung in dieser Passage (P) gleiten kann, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie Mittel umfasst, Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) genannt, um wenigstens einen Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens (8), der von oberhalb bis unmittelbar unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) verläuft, zwischen einer Normalposition, in der der Spannfaden (8) in der Passage (P) platziert wird, und einer Position zum Lösen des genannten Abschnitts (37) des Spannfadens (8) relativ zu den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) quer zu verschieben, wo Letzterer relativ zur Nährichtung (D) der Stiche geneigt ist und gegenüber den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) über den Aktionsbereich der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) und über die Passage (P) hinaus passiert, um insbesondere ein unabhängiges Abschneiden der Hilfsfäden (4) der Stiche (3) und/oder des Spannfadens (8) mit wenigstens einem Schneidmesser (16, 17) zuzulassen, das unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) angeordnet ist, und/oder Bilden von Schlaufen (62) des Spannfadens (8), die während des Nähens aus der Passage (P) heraus gelöst werden.
  12. Maschine nach Anspruch 11, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) so ausgelegt sind, dass sie wenigstens den genannten Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens (8) während des Nähens der Stiche (3) mit den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) quer verschieben können.
  13. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 11 und 12, umfassend ein Motorgestell (12) und eine Werkstückhalterplatte (13), die allgemein auf einer Seite des Motorgestells (12) von Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) ausgehend verlaufen, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) so ausgelegt sind, dass sie den genannten Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens lateral auf der Seite der Werkstückhalterplatte (13) und gegenüber dem Motorgestell (12) über die genannte Passage (P) hinaus von der normalen Position in die Löseposition verschieben.
  14. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 11 bis 13, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Lösemittel so gestaltet sind, dass sie den genannten Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens vertikal dadurch verschieben, dass dieser von dem zu nähenden Stück (1) weg nach oben über den Wirkungsbereich der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) hinaus bewegt wird.
  15. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 11. bis 14, wobei die Durchnähnüttel (5, 6, 7) wenigstens eine Nadel (5) umfassen und Mittel (9, 10, 11) zum Mitnehmen des zu nähenden Stückes beinhalten, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mitnahmemittel (9, 10, 11) wenigstens einen Mechnismus umfassen, nachgeschalteter Mitnahmemechanismus (11) genannt, der unmittelbar hinter der Nadel (5) angeordnet ist, und dadurch, dass die Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) so gestaltet sind, dass sie wenigstens einen Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens quer verschieben, der von dem nachgeschalteten Mitnahmemechanismus (11) nach oben verläuft.
  16. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 11 bis 15, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mittel (14, 48, 61) zum Führen des Spannfadens wenigstens einen vorgeschalteten Führungsteil (14, 48, 61) umfassen, der oberhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) angeordnet ist und auf Auflagemitteln ruht, die so gestaltet sind, dass sie diesen Führungsteil (14, 48, 61) in eine Normalposition bringen können, in der sie den Spannfaden (8) relativ zu den Stichen (3) führen, oder in eine Position zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8), in der er relativ zu den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) quer verschoben wird, so dass diese Auflagemittel des/der vorgeschalteten Führungsteils/-teile (14, 48, 61) als Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) wirken.
  17. Maschine nach Anspruch 16, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Lösemittel Mittel (45, 68, 72) umfassen, die so gestaltet sind, dass sie wenigstens einen Führungsteil (48, 61) quer verschieben können, der sich von einer Pressereinheit unterscheidet.
  18. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 16 und 17, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens wenigstens eine doppelt wirkende Betätigungseinheit (23, 45, 68, 72) umfassen, die es ermöglicht, den genannten Führungsteil (14, 48, 61) zwischen der Normalposition und der Position zum Lösen des Spannfadens und umgekehrt quer zu verschieben.
  19. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 11 bis 18, umfassend Mittel (14) zum Führen des Spannfadens, die von einer vorgeschalteten Pressereinheit (10) zum Mitnehmen des zu nähenden Stücks (1) gebildet und/oder gelagert werden, und Auflagemittel (22, 23, 24) für die vorgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) relativ zu einem Gestell (12) der Maschine, die so gestaltet sind, dass in einer aktiven Position die vorgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) in Kontakt mit dem zu nähenden Stück (1) gebracht wird, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Auflagemittel (22, 23, 24) so gestaltet sind, dass sie die vorgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) in die Position zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) bringen können, in der die vorgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) und das Mittel (14) zum Führen des Spannfadens lateral relativ zu den Durchnähmitteln (5, 6, 7) verschoben werden, so dass diese Auflagemittel (22, 23, 24) für die vorgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) als Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) dienen.
  20. Maschine nach Anspruch 19, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Auflagemittel (22, 23, 24) folgendes umfassen:
    einen Arm (22), der an einem nachgeschalteten Ende am Gestell (12) der Maschine so angelenkt ist, dass er um eine vertikale Achse (27) und um eine querverlaufende horizontale Achse (28) schwenken kann und die vorgeschaltete Pressereinheit (10) mit dem Mittel (14) zum Führen des Spannfadens an seinem oberen Ende lagert;
    eine doppelt wirkende Betätigungseinheit (23), auf der das Gestell (12) ruht und die einen Betätigungsstab (25) aufweist, der in Translationsrichtung beweglich ist;
    einen Schwingarm (24) für die Verbindung zwischen dem Arm (22) und dem Betätigungsstab (25);
       und dadurch, dass die Betätigungseinheit (23) auf dem Gestell (12) so montiert ist, dass der Betätigungsstab (25) in einer Normalposition Auflagedruck auf den Arm (22) in Applikationsrichtung der vorgeschalteten Pressereinheit (10) auf das zu nähende Stück (1) ausüben kann.
  21. Maschine nach Anspruch 20, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sich der Schwingarm (24) für die Verbindung verdrehen kann, um ausgehend von einer Translationsbewegung in Begleitung von einer Eigenrotation des Betätigungsstabes (25) laterale Verschiebungsbewegungen der vorgeschalteten Pressereinheit (10) durch die Schwenkung des Arms (22) um die vertikale Achse (27) und eine vertikale Verschiebung der vorgeschalteten Pressereinheit (10) durch Schwenken des Arms (22) um die querverlaufende horizontale Achse (28) zu erzeugen.
  22. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 11 bis 21, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie ein erstes Schneidmesser (16) zum Schneiden von Hilfsfäden (4) umfasst, das unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) angeordnet ist, und dadurch, dass die genannten Mittel (22, 23, 24) zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) so gestaltet sind, dass der genannte Abschnitt (37) des Spannfadens lateral von der Normalposition um einen Abstand verschoben wird, der ausreicht, um den Spannfaden (8) lateral von dem ersten Schneidmesser (16) zum Schneiden der Hilfsfäden (4) zu lösen.
  23. Maschine nach Anspruch 22, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie zwei Messer (16, 17) zum Schneiden von Fäden umfasst, wobei das erste Messer (16) unterhalb der Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7) angeordnet ist, um die Hilfsfäden (4) der Überenden abzuschneiden, wobei das zweite Messer (17) unterhalb des ersten (16) in einem Abstand angeordnet ist, der der Länge (d1) einer Strangs (18) des Spannfadens entspricht, Verlängerungsstrang genannt, die über einen Anfang der durch die Stiche (3) gebildeten Naht auf einem nächsten zu nähenden Stück hinaus laufen darf.
  24. Maschine nach den Ansprüchen 15 und 23, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das erste Messer (16) unmittelbar unterhalb und in der Nähe des nachgeschalteten Mitnahmemechanismus (11) angeordnet ist.
  25. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 11 bis 24, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie Mittel (41 bis 44) zum automatischen Führen des zu nähenden Stückes (1) relativ zu dem Mittel (14) zum Führen und ggf. relativ zu dem/den Schneidmesser(n) (16, 17) und dem Mittel (44) für die automatische Steuerung des Mittels zum Lösen des Spannfadens und ggf. des/der Messer(s) (16, 17) umfasst.
  26. Maschine nach Anspruch 25, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mittel (41 bis 44) zum automatischen Führen des zu nähenden Stückes (1) einen Greifroboter umfassen, der so gestaltet und programmiert ist, dass er das zu nähende Stück (1) auf eine Werkstückplatte (13) der Maschine während des Nähens verschiebt.
  27. Maschine nach einem der Ansprüche 25 und 26, dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die Mittel (41 bis 44) zum automatischen Führen des zu nähenden Stückes (1) und das Mittel (44) zum automatischen Steuern des Mittels zum Lösen des Spannfadens eine programmierbare numerische Steuerung (44) umfassen, die so gestaltet und programmiert ist, dass sie während des Nähens die Durchnähmittel (5, 6, 7), die Verschiebungen des zu nähenden Stückes (1), das Mittel zum Lösen des Spannfadens (8) und das/die Schneidmesser (16, 17) steuert.
EP98937600A 1997-07-15 1998-07-09 Nähverfahren und nähmaschine die das freimachen einer ziehschnur aus einer durch eine nähnaht geformte passage ermöglicht Expired - Lifetime EP1000189B1 (de)

Applications Claiming Priority (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR9708952A FR2766213B1 (fr) 1997-07-15 1997-07-15 Procede de couture et machine a coudre permettant de degager un fil de tension d'un passage forme par un point de couture
FR9708952 1997-07-15
PCT/FR1998/001491 WO1999004079A1 (fr) 1997-07-15 1998-07-09 Procede de couture et machine a coudre permettant de degager un fil de tension d'un passage forme par un point de couture

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP1000189A1 EP1000189A1 (de) 2000-05-17
EP1000189B1 true EP1000189B1 (de) 2002-03-20

Family

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EP98937600A Expired - Lifetime EP1000189B1 (de) 1997-07-15 1998-07-09 Nähverfahren und nähmaschine die das freimachen einer ziehschnur aus einer durch eine nähnaht geformte passage ermöglicht

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US (1) US6196148B1 (de)
EP (1) EP1000189B1 (de)
JP (1) JP4022043B2 (de)
AT (1) ATE214748T1 (de)
AU (1) AU8634098A (de)
CA (1) CA2295164C (de)
DE (1) DE69804316T2 (de)
DK (1) DK1000189T3 (de)
ES (1) ES2174464T3 (de)
FR (1) FR2766213B1 (de)
PT (1) PT1000189E (de)
WO (1) WO1999004079A1 (de)

Families Citing this family (8)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP4949690B2 (ja) * 2006-02-01 2012-06-13 ユニ・チャーム株式会社 シート状構造体の製造システム及び製造方法
JP4949691B2 (ja) * 2006-02-01 2012-06-13 ユニ・チャーム株式会社 シート状構造体の製造システム及び製造方法
CN105506868B (zh) * 2016-01-27 2018-02-02 浙江海森纺机科技有限公司 一种全电脑手套包缝机
CN105887338A (zh) * 2016-05-18 2016-08-24 远东服装（苏州）有限公司 一种带自动剪线装置的缝合压线机
CN108425186B (zh) * 2018-04-16 2024-01-12 深圳市远成缝纫机工业有限公司 电脑高头车
CN108677398B (zh) * 2018-05-31 2020-12-04 杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 一种缝纫机剪线控制方法和机构、及包缝机
CN108866846A (zh) * 2018-06-12 2018-11-23 杰克缝纫机股份有限公司 一种缝纫机剪线控制方法和机构、及包缝机
CN110670249B (zh) * 2019-10-12 2022-03-22 杰克科技股份有限公司 剪线抬压脚机构及包缝机

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US2419494A (en) * 1945-12-31 1947-04-22 Singer Mfg Co Presser device for sewing machines
US2581603A (en) * 1950-06-14 1952-01-08 Singer Mfg Co Presser foot for sewing machines
US3068819A (en) * 1958-10-21 1962-12-18 Rothenborg Specialmaskiner For Chain cutting apparatus
US3034460A (en) * 1960-10-20 1962-05-15 Merrow Sales Corp Sewing machines
US3547059A (en) * 1969-05-26 1970-12-15 Singer Co Pressure foot for sewing a coil-type zipper stringer
US3752097A (en) * 1972-04-14 1973-08-14 Usm Corp Fabric edge finishing machines
GB1488364A (en) * 1974-10-02 1977-10-12 Singer Co Presser device for overedge sewing machine
DE3003630C2 (de) * 1980-02-01 1983-03-10 Union Special Gmbh, 7000 Stuttgart Überwendlichnähmaschine mit Kordelführung
US4254719A (en) * 1980-05-01 1981-03-10 George Zawick Tape guiding accessory for sewing machines
FR2590284B1 (fr) 1985-11-20 1996-07-12 Guilhem Christian Procede de plissage d'une piece souple, application a l'habillage d'objets, moyens de mise en oeuvre et produits obtenus
JP2628387B2 (ja) * 1989-11-29 1997-07-09 ペガサスミシン製造株式会社 テープ付け空環縫込み装置

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
ES2174464T3 (es) 2002-11-01
PT1000189E (pt) 2002-07-31
US6196148B1 (en) 2001-03-06
AU8634098A (en) 1999-02-10
CA2295164C (fr) 2006-09-19
EP1000189A1 (de) 2000-05-17
DE69804316D1 (de) 2002-04-25
DK1000189T3 (da) 2002-07-08
ATE214748T1 (de) 2002-04-15
JP4022043B2 (ja) 2007-12-12
JP2001510085A (ja) 2001-07-31
WO1999004079A1 (fr) 1999-01-28
DE69804316T2 (de) 2002-11-07
FR2766213B1 (fr) 1999-09-10
FR2766213A1 (fr) 1999-01-22
CA2295164A1 (fr) 1999-01-28

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