EP0997140A1 - Skin and/or hair whitening composition - Google Patents

Skin and/or hair whitening composition Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0997140A1
EP0997140A1 EP99402163A EP99402163A EP0997140A1 EP 0997140 A1 EP0997140 A1 EP 0997140A1 EP 99402163 A EP99402163 A EP 99402163A EP 99402163 A EP99402163 A EP 99402163A EP 0997140 A1 EP0997140 A1 EP 0997140A1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
composition according
extract
skin
salicylic acid
hair
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EP99402163A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0997140B1 (en
Inventor
Philippe Touzan
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LOreal SA
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LOreal SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/066—Multiple emulsions, e.g. water-in-oil-in-water
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/368—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof with carboxyl groups directly bound to carbon atoms of aromatic rings
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/69—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing fluorine
    • A61K8/70—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing fluorine containing perfluoro groups, e.g. perfluoroethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
    • A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. containing, in combination, at least one mulberry extract or a substance active isolated from such an extract, at least one extract of skullcap, or a active substance isolated from such an extract, and at least one acid derivative salicylic.
  • the invention also relates to the use of said composition by topical application to the skin of the face and / or body, in order to bleach or depigment the skin, depigment the hair and / or hair, or to treat pigment spots on the skin.
  • the color of human skin is a function of various factors and in particular seasons of the year, race and gender, and it is mainly determined by the nature and concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. In addition, at different times in their lives, some people see appear on the skin and more especially on the hands, more spots dark and / or more colored, giving the skin heterogeneity. These spots are also due to a high concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin.
  • Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine: oxygen oxydo-reductase EC 1.14.18.1) is the essential enzyme involved in this sequence of reactions. In particular, it catalyzes the reaction to transform tyrosine into Dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) thanks to its hydroxylase activity and the reaction of transformation of Dopa into dopaquinone thanks to its oxidase activity. This tyrosinase only works when it is matured under the action of certain biological factors.
  • a substance is recognized as depigmenting if it acts directly on the vitality of epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis takes place and / or if it interferes with one of the stages of the biosynthesis of melanin either inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis either by intercalating as a structural analogue of one of the chemical compounds in the chain synthesis of melanin, a chain which can then be blocked and thus ensure the depigmentation.
  • the substances most used as depigmenters are more particularly hydroquinone and its derivatives, in particular its ethers such as monomethyl ether and hydroquinone monoethyl ether.
  • hydroquinone and its derivatives in particular its ethers such as monomethyl ether and hydroquinone monoethyl ether.
  • Hydroquinone is a particularly irritating and cytotoxic compound for the melanocyte, whose replacement, total or partial, has been envisaged by many authors.
  • patent EP-A-0 747 043 describes the use of alkylated derivatives salicylic acid as inhibitors of tyrosinase activity, in a whitening or depigmenting composition.
  • US-A-5,580,549 also describes the use of alkylated and alkoxylated derivatives of salicylic acid to high concentrations or in combination with other depigmenters, to treat dyschromia.
  • document JP06-107,532 relates to a cosmetic composition to prevent and treat age spots by inhibiting melanogenesis, which composition contains from 0.001 to 20% by weight of one or more extracts, including a root extract of Scutellaria baicalensis (skullcap) and a extract of mulberry bark, and 0.001 to 30% by weight of a UV absorber and / or of a agent diffusing UV rays.
  • a cosmetic composition to prevent and treat age spots by inhibiting melanogenesis, which composition contains from 0.001 to 20% by weight of one or more extracts, including a root extract of Scutellaria baicalensis (skullcap) and a extract of mulberry bark, and 0.001 to 30% by weight of a UV absorber and / or of a agent diffusing UV rays.
  • the radical R contains at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • He is by example formed from a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms.
  • the salicylic acid derivative is chosen from acid salicylic and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic and n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acids and it is in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.
  • mineral bases such as metal hydroxides alkaline (sodium and potassium hydroxides) or ammonium hydroxides or, better still, organic bases.
  • amphoteric bases are used for the salification of the derivatives salicylic acid, that is to say bases having both groups anionic and cationic functional.
  • amphoteric bases can be primary organic amines, secondary, tertiary or cyclic, and more especially amino acids.
  • AT an example of amphoteric bases, mention may be made of glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxy-methylaminomethane (TRISTA), triethanolamine.
  • TMSTA trihydroxy-methylaminomethane
  • the composition according to the invention contains a mulberry extract, advantageously an extract of Morus alba root, or a substance isolated from such an extract, preferably a kuwanone or a derivative of this one.
  • a mulberry extract advantageously an extract of Morus alba root, or a substance isolated from such an extract, preferably a kuwanone or a derivative of this one.
  • the composition also contains an extract of skullcap, advantageously a root extract of Scutellaria baicalensis, or a substance isolated from a such extract, preferably ba ⁇ caline.
  • an extract of skullcap advantageously a root extract of Scutellaria baicalensis, or a substance isolated from a such extract, preferably ba ⁇ caline.
  • the extracts mentioned above can be prepared by extraction using an aqueous, alcoholic or organic solvent, according to any extraction method known to those skilled in the art
  • aqueous solvent any solvent constituted wholly or partly of water. Mention may thus be made of water itself, hydroalcoholic solvents in all proportion or the solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol in any proportion.
  • plant extracts obtained by extraction using a hydroalcoholic solvent advantageously extracts with 0.5-1.5% active ingredient in 50% water and 48.5-49.5% butylene glycol.
  • steps to promote conservation and / or stabilization may be added without changing the very nature of the extract.
  • the extract obtained can be lyophilized by all conventional methods of lyophilization. A powder is thus obtained which can be used directly or mixed well in a suitable solvent before use.
  • the amount of salicylic acid derivative and extracts of mulberry and skullcap contained in the composition according to the invention is obviously a function of the desired bleaching or depigmentation effect and may therefore vary to a large extent.
  • the composition according to the invention contains from 0.1 to 5% by weight, advantageously from 1 to 2% by weight, salicylic acid derivative; and from 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, of each of the extracts of mulberry and skullcap, by relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention is suitable for topical use and therefore contains a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, the hairs or the hair.
  • composition according to the invention can be in any form galenics normally used for topical application, especially under form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, of an oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil or multiple, of an aqueous or oily gel, of a product liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous, of an oil dispersion in a phase aqueous using spherules, these spherules possibly being nanoparticles polymers such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type.
  • This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream white or colored, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, dough, foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin or on hair in aerosol form. It can also be in the form solid, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a product care and / or as a make-up product. It can also be under a form of shampoo or conditioner.
  • the composition according to the invention can also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, odor absorbers and coloring matter.
  • the quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in areas considered, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
  • These adjuvants depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, in the aqueous phase, in the lipid vesicles and / or in nanoparticles.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Oils, emulsifiers and the coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration.
  • the emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • mineral oils oil petroleum jelly
  • vegetable oils avocado oil, soybean oil
  • oils of animal origin lanolin
  • synthetic oils perhydrosqualene
  • oils silicone cyclomethicone
  • fluorinated oils perfluoropolyethers
  • fatty alcohols cetyl alcohol
  • fatty acids fatty acids
  • waxes carnauba wax, ozokerite
  • emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, it is possible to quote for example fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-20 stearate, and fatty acid and glycerin esters such as stearate glyceryl.
  • hydrophilic gelling agents mention may in particular be made of polymers carboxyvinyls (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.
  • active agents it is possible in particular to use polyols, vitamins, agents keratolytics and / or scaling agents, anti-inflammatory agents, agents soothing and their mixtures.
  • depigmenting agents such as kojic acid or hydroquinone and its derivatives, which allows the latter to be used in doses lower.
  • at least some of the assets may be incorporated into spherules, in particular ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and / or nanospheres), so that the mutually incompatible assets are isolated from each other in the composition.
  • UV filters with lipophilic property can also be used in these compositions or hydrophilic, such as benzene 1,4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic) acid, 2-ethylhexyl ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ , - ⁇ -diphenylacrylate or octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate and / or titanium and zinc oxides.
  • hydrophilic such as benzene 1,4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic) acid, 2-ethylhexyl ⁇ -cyano- ⁇ , - ⁇ -diphenylacrylate or octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate and / or titanium and zinc oxides.
  • compositions constitute in particular protection, treatment creams or care for the face, for the hands or for the body, body milks of protection or care, lotions, gels or foams for care or treatment of the skin, cleansing or disinfecting lotions, compositions for bath, foundations and tinted creams.
  • the composition contains pigments.
  • composition defined above can be used to depigment and / or whiten human skin and / or remove pigmentation spots on the skin and / or depigment the hair and / or hair or to inhibit tyrosinase activity and / or the synthesis of melanin.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for depigmentation and / or bleaching of human skin, body hair and / or hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin, the hairs and / or hair a composition according to the invention.
  • composition was prepared: AT - Glucate SS [Amerchol] (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1.5% Fatty alcohols 4% Cyclomethicone 5% 0.5% n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid Octocrylene (Uvinul N539) 2% Preservatives 0.1% Perfume 0.2% B - Water qs 100 Glycerin 3% Glucamate SSE-20 [Amerchol] (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1.5% Preservatives 0.5% VS - Water 15% Xanthan gum 0.1% Hydroalcoholic extract of Mulberry Roots (1% active ingredient) 1% Skullcap hydroalcoholic extract (1% active ingredient) 1% D - Sepigel 305 (Seppic) 1%
  • Phase A is heated to 75 ° C until perfect solubilization, as well as the phase B.
  • Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring, until obtaining of a fine and regular emulsion.
  • Phase C is homogenized with stirring in water at 40 ° C then introduced with stirring at 40 ° C to the mixture A + B.
  • the phase D is introduced at 40 ° C. and dispersed with stirring.
  • the fluid obtained is cooled with stirring.
  • a fluid emulsion with depigmenting property is obtained.
  • the depigmenting activity of the composition according to Example 1 was brought into play. evidence on a human skin model kept alive.
  • human skin of phototype IV is obtained in plastic surgery.
  • the skin fragments are maintained in survival ex vivo by organ culture, that is to say that they are placed in inserts suspended above culture wells and maintained in survival using the culture medium deposited at the bottom of the wells.
  • the culture medium is renewed three times a week.
  • an untreated skin fragment is also maintained surviving under the same conditions.
  • basal cells keratinocytes and melanocytes
  • melanin grains After 21 days, a quantitative assessment of the percentage of basal cells (keratinocytes and melanocytes) containing melanin grains is produced histologically under an optical microscope, on five fields, at 40 magnification, after coloring with hemalun-eosin (Fontana method).
  • the composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the number of highly pigmented cells, increase the number of cells moderately pigmented and thus obtain a melanin inhibition rate of 16%.

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Abstract

A cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:in combination, at least one extract of mulberry or an active substance isolated from the extract, at least one extract of skullcap or an active substance isolated from the extract and at least one salicylic acid derivative or salt thereof.

Description

L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique renfermant, en association, au moins un extrait de mûrier ou une substance active isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, au moins un extrait de scutellaire, ou une substance active isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, et au moins un dérivé d'acide salicylique. L'invention se rapporte également à l'utilisation de ladite composition par application topique sur la peau du visage et/ou du corps, dans le but de blanchir ou de dépigmenter la peau, de dépigmenter les poils et/ou les cheveux, ou de traiter les taches pigmentaires de la peau.The invention relates to a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. containing, in combination, at least one mulberry extract or a substance active isolated from such an extract, at least one extract of skullcap, or a active substance isolated from such an extract, and at least one acid derivative salicylic. The invention also relates to the use of said composition by topical application to the skin of the face and / or body, in order to bleach or depigment the skin, depigment the hair and / or hair, or to treat pigment spots on the skin.

La couleur de la peau humaine est fonction de différents facteurs et notamment des saisons de l'année, de la race et du sexe, et elle est principalement déterminée par la nature et la concentration de mélanine produite par les mélanocytes. En outre, à différentes périodes de leur vie, certaines personnes voient apparaítre sur la peau et plus spécialement sur les mains, des taches plus foncées et/ou plus colorées, conférant à la peau une hétérogénéité. Ces taches sont dues aussi à une concentration importante de mélanine dans les kératinocytes situés à la surface de la peau.The color of human skin is a function of various factors and in particular seasons of the year, race and gender, and it is mainly determined by the nature and concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. In addition, at different times in their lives, some people see appear on the skin and more especially on the hands, more spots dark and / or more colored, giving the skin heterogeneity. These spots are also due to a high concentration of melanin in the keratinocytes located on the surface of the skin.

De la même manière, la couleur des poils et des cheveux est due à la mélanine, lorsque les poils ou les cheveux sont foncés, certaines personnes désirent voir ceux-ci plus clairs. Ceci est particulièrement intéressant pour les poils qui sont moins visibles lorsqu'ils sont clairs que lorsqu'ils sont foncés.In the same way, the color of the hairs and the hair is due to the melanin, when the hair is dark, some people want to see these more clear. This is particularly interesting for hairs which are less visible when they are clear than when they are dark.

Le mécanisme de formation de la pigmentation de la peau, des poils et des cheveux, c'est-à-dire de la formation de la mélanine, est particulièrement complexe et fait intervenir schématiquement les principales étapes suivantes : Tyrosine ---> Dopa ---> Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Mélanine The mechanism of formation of the pigmentation of the skin, of the hairs and of the hair, that is to say of the formation of melanin, is particularly complex and schematically involves the following main stages: Tyrosine ---> Dopa ---> Dopaquinone ---> Dopachrome ---> Melanin

La tyrosinase (monophénol dihydroxyl phénylalanine : oxygen oxydo-reductase EC 1.14.18.1) est l'enzyme essentielle intervenant dans cette suite de réactions. Elle catalyse notamment la réaction de transformation de la tyrosine en Dopa (dihydroxyphénylalanine) grâce à son activité hydroxylase et la réaction de transformation de la Dopa en dopaquinone grâce à son activité oxydase. Cette tyrosinase n'agit que lorsqu'elle est à l'état de maturation sous l'action de certains facteurs biologiques. Tyrosinase (monophenol dihydroxyl phenylalanine: oxygen oxydo-reductase EC 1.14.18.1) is the essential enzyme involved in this sequence of reactions. In particular, it catalyzes the reaction to transform tyrosine into Dopa (dihydroxyphenylalanine) thanks to its hydroxylase activity and the reaction of transformation of Dopa into dopaquinone thanks to its oxidase activity. This tyrosinase only works when it is matured under the action of certain biological factors.

Une substance est reconnue comme dépigmentante si elle agit directement sur la vitalité des mélanocytes épidermiques où se déroule la mélanogénèse et/ou si elle interfère avec une des étapes de la biosynthèse de la mélanine soit en inhibant une des enzymes impliquées dans la mélanogénèse soit en s'intercalant comme analogue structural d'un des composés chimiques de la chaíne de synthèse de la mélanine, chaíne qui peut alors être bloquée et ainsi assurer la dépigmentation.A substance is recognized as depigmenting if it acts directly on the vitality of epidermal melanocytes where melanogenesis takes place and / or if it interferes with one of the stages of the biosynthesis of melanin either inhibiting one of the enzymes involved in melanogenesis either by intercalating as a structural analogue of one of the chemical compounds in the chain synthesis of melanin, a chain which can then be blocked and thus ensure the depigmentation.

Les substances les plus utilisées en tant que dépigmentants sont plus particulièrement l'hydroquinone et ses dérivés, en particulier ses éthers tels que le monométhyléther et le monoéthyléther d'hydroquinone. Ces composés, bien qu'ils présentent une efficacité certaine, ne sont malheureusement pas exempts d'effets secondaires du fait de leur toxicité, ce qui peut rendre leur emploi délicat, voire dangereux. Cette toxicité provient de ce qu'ils interviennent sur des mécanismes fondamentaux de la mélanogénèse en tuant des cellules qui risquent alors de perturber leur environnement biologique et qui par conséquent obligent la peau à les évacuer en produisant des toxines.The substances most used as depigmenters are more particularly hydroquinone and its derivatives, in particular its ethers such as monomethyl ether and hydroquinone monoethyl ether. These compounds, well that they have a certain effectiveness, are unfortunately not exempt side effects due to their toxicity, which can make their use delicate, even dangerous. This toxicity comes from the fact that they intervene on fundamental mechanisms of melanogenesis by killing cells that then risk disturbing their biological environment and which consequently force the skin to evacuate them, producing toxins.

Ainsi, l'hydroquinone est un composé particulièrement irritant et cytotoxique pour le mélanocyte, dont le remplacement, total ou partiel a été envisagé par de nombreux auteurs.Hydroquinone is a particularly irritating and cytotoxic compound for the melanocyte, whose replacement, total or partial, has been envisaged by many authors.

On a ainsi cherché des substances qui n'interviennent pas dans le mécanisme de la mélanogénèse mais qui agissent en amont sur la tyrosinase en empêchant son activation et sont de ce fait beaucoup moins toxiques.We looked for substances that do not intervene in the mechanism of melanogenesis but which act upstream on tyrosinase by preventing its activation and are therefore much less toxic.

L'utilisation de substances dépigmentantes topiques inoffensives présentant une bonne efficacité est tout particulièrement recherchée en vue de traiter les hyperpigmentations régionales par hyperactivité mélanocytaire telles que les mélasmas idiopathiques, survenant lors de la grossesse ("masque de grossesse" ou chloasma) ou d'une contraception oestro-progestative, les hyperpigmentations localisées par hyperactivité et prolifération mélanocytaire bénigne, telles que les taches pigmentaires séniles dites lentigo actiniques, les hyperpigmentations ou dépigmentations accidentelles, éventuellement dues à la photosensibilisation ou à la cicatrisation post-lésionnelle, ainsi que certaines leucodermies, telles que le vitiligo. Pour ces dernières (les cicatrisations pouvant aboutir à une cicatrice donnant à la peau un aspect plus blanc et les leucodermies), à défaut de pouvoir repigmenter la peau lésée, on achève de dépigmenter les zones de peau normale résiduelle pour donner à l'ensemble de la peau une teinte blanche homogène.The use of harmless topical depigmenting substances with good efficacy is particularly sought in order to treat regional hyperpigmentations by melanocyte hyperactivity such as idiopathic melasmas, occurring during pregnancy ("pregnancy mask" or chloasma) or estrogen-progestogen contraception, hyperpigmentation localized by hyperactivity and benign melanocyte proliferation, such as senile pigment spots called actinic lentigo, hyperpigmentation or accidental depigmentations, possibly due to photosensitization or post-lesion healing, as well as certain leukoderma, such as vitiligo. For the latter (scarring which can lead to a scar giving the skin a whiter appearance and leukoderma), in the absence of power repigment the damaged skin, we finish depigmenting the skin areas normal residual to give the whole skin a white tint homogeneous.

Aussi, il a été proposé divers agents blanchissants de la peau humaine, des poils et/ou des cheveux n'ayant pas les inconvénients des composés connus, c'est-à-dire qui sont non irritants, non toxiques et/ou non allergisants pour la peau et stables dans une composition.Also, various bleaching agents for human skin, hair have been proposed. and / or hair not having the drawbacks of the known compounds, that is to say which are non-irritant, non-toxic and / or non-allergenic to the skin and stable in a composition.

Par exemple, le brevet EP-A-0 747 043 décrit l'utilisation de dérivés alkylés d'acide salicylique en tant qu'inhibiteurs de l'activité de la tyrosinase, dans une composition blanchissante ou dépigmentante. Le document US-A-5 580 549 décrit également l'utilisation de dérivés alkylés et alcoxylés de l'acide salicylique à fortes concentrations ou en association avec d'autres dépigmentants, pour traiter la dyschromie.For example, patent EP-A-0 747 043 describes the use of alkylated derivatives salicylic acid as inhibitors of tyrosinase activity, in a whitening or depigmenting composition. US-A-5,580,549 also describes the use of alkylated and alkoxylated derivatives of salicylic acid to high concentrations or in combination with other depigmenters, to treat dyschromia.

On connaít en outre de C.A. Essential Oils, Cosmetics, vol. 88, 1978, page 227, abrégé 88:65874z ou JP-A-50 135 236 des compositions cosmétiques dépigmentantes comprenant, à titre de principes actifs, des composés inhibant l'activité de la tyrosinase, issus d'extraits d'écorce des rejets ou des racines de mûrier, ou sohakuhi. Le document EP-A-0 296 923 divulgue également une composition à activité dépigmentante comprenant un extrait de mûrier, ou une substance active isolée à partir d'un tel extrait.We also know of CA Essential Oils, Cosmetics, vol. 88, 1978, page 227, abstract 88: 65874z or JP-A-50 135 236 cosmetic depigmenting compositions comprising, as active principles, compounds inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, derived from extracts of the bark of suckers or mulberry roots, or sohakuhi. Document EP-A-0 296 923 also discloses a composition with depigmenting activity comprising a mulberry extract, or an active substance isolated from such an extract.

De son côté, le document JP06-107 532 concerne une composition cosmétique pour prévenir et traiter les taches pigmentaires en inhibant la mélanogénèse, laquelle composition renferme de 0,001 à 20% en poids d'un ou plusieurs extraits, dont un extrait de racine de Scutellaria baicalensis (scutellaire) et un extrait d'écorce de mûrier, et 0,001 à 30% en poids d'un absorbeur UV et/ou d'un agent diffusant les rayons UV.For its part, document JP06-107,532 relates to a cosmetic composition to prevent and treat age spots by inhibiting melanogenesis, which composition contains from 0.001 to 20% by weight of one or more extracts, including a root extract of Scutellaria baicalensis (skullcap) and a extract of mulberry bark, and 0.001 to 30% by weight of a UV absorber and / or of a agent diffusing UV rays.

Il subsiste toutefois le besoin d'une composition dépigmentante ou blanchissante qui, tout en étant bien tolérée, soit plus efficace que les compositions mentionnées ci-dessus.However, the need remains for a depigmenting or whitening composition. which, while being well tolerated, is more effective than the compositions mentioned above.

Or, la Demanderesse a découvert que l'association d'extraits de mûrier et de scutellaire avec des dérivés d'acide salicylique potentialisait, de manière surprenante, l'efficacité de ces composés. En d'autres termes, ces trois composés, utilisés en combinaison, renforcent mutuellement leurs effets pour produire un effet de synergie dans le blanchiment ou la dépigmentation de la peau, des poils ou des cheveux.However, the Applicant has discovered that the combination of mulberry extracts and skullcap with salicylic acid derivatives potentiated, so surprisingly, the effectiveness of these compounds. In other words, these three compounds, used in combination, mutually enhance their effects for produce a synergistic effect in the whitening or depigmentation of the skin, hair or hair.

Aussi, la présente invention a pour objet une composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique renfermant, en association, au moins un extrait de mûrier ou une substance active isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, au moins un extrait de scutellaire, ou une substance active isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, et au moins un dérivé d'acide salicylique de formule (I) ou un sel d'un tel dérivé :

Figure 00040001
dans laquelle :

  • R représente un atome d'hydrogène ou une chaíne aliphatique, alcoxy, ester ou cétoxy, saturée ou insaturée, linéaire, ramifiée ou cyclisée, ces chaínes comportant de 2 à 22 atomes de carbone et pouvant être substituées par au moins un substituant choisi parmi les atomes d'halogène, le groupement trifluorométhyle, les groupements hydroxyle sous forme libre ou estérifiée par un acide ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ou bien par une fonction carboxyle, libre ou estérifiée par un alcool inférieur ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ; et
  • R' représente un groupement hydroxyle ou une fonction ester de formule :
    Figure 00040002
    où R1 est un groupement aliphatique saturé ou insaturé ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone.
    • Also, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition containing, in combination, at least one mulberry extract or an active substance isolated from such an extract, at least one skullcap extract, or an active substance. isolated from such an extract, and at least one salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) or a salt of such a derivative:
    Figure 00040001
    in which :
  • R represents a hydrogen atom or an aliphatic, alkoxy, ester or ketoxy chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclized, these chains comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms and which can be substituted by at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms, the trifluoromethyl group, the hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or else by a carboxyl function, free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms ; and
  • R 'represents a hydroxyl group or an ester function of formula:
    Figure 00040002
    where R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

    • De préférence, le radical R comporte au moins 4 atomes de carbone. Il est par exemple formé d'un radical alkyle ou alcoxy linéaire saturé ayant de 4 à 11 atomes de carbone. Preferably, the radical R contains at least 4 carbon atoms. He is by example formed from a saturated linear alkyl or alkoxy radical having from 4 to 11 carbon atoms.

    De façon avantageuse, le dérivé de l'acide salicylique est choisi parmi l'acide salicylique et les acides n-octanoyl-5-salicylique, n-décanoyl-5-salicylique et n-dodécanoyl-5-salicylique et il s'agit en particulier de l'acide n-octanoyl-5-salicylique.Advantageously, the salicylic acid derivative is chosen from acid salicylic and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic and n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acids and it is in particular n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

    Il peut s'agir également des sels de ces acides, et en particulier des sels obtenus par salification avec une base.It can also be the salts of these acids, and in particular the salts obtained by salification with a base.

    Comme bases susceptibles de salifier les dérivés de l'acide salicylique selon l'invention, on peut citer les bases minérales comme les hydroxydes de métaux alcalins (hydroxydes de sodium et de potassium) ou les hydroxydes d'ammonium ou, mieux encore, les bases organiques.As bases capable of salifying the derivatives of salicylic acid according to the invention, mention may be made of mineral bases such as metal hydroxides alkaline (sodium and potassium hydroxides) or ammonium hydroxides or, better still, organic bases.

    De préférence, on utilise des bases amphotères pour la salification des dérivés de l'acide salicylique, c'est-à-dire des bases ayant à la fois des groupements fonctionnels anioniques et cationiques.Preferably, amphoteric bases are used for the salification of the derivatives salicylic acid, that is to say bases having both groups anionic and cationic functional.

    Les bases amphotères peuvent être des amines organiques primaires, secondaires, tertiaires ou cycliques, et plus spécialement des acides aminés. A titre d'exemple de bases amphotères, on peut citer la glycine, la lysine, l'arginine, la taurine, l'histidine, l'alanine, la valine, la cystéïne, la trihydroxy-méthylaminométhane (TRISTA), la triéthanolamine. Ces bases sont utilisées en quantités suffisantes pour amener le pH de l'émulsion entre 5 et 7 et donc proche de celui de la peau. Il s'ensuit une grande compatibilité de la composition selon l'invention vis-à-vis de la peau.The amphoteric bases can be primary organic amines, secondary, tertiary or cyclic, and more especially amino acids. AT As an example of amphoteric bases, mention may be made of glycine, lysine, arginine, taurine, histidine, alanine, valine, cysteine, trihydroxy-methylaminomethane (TRISTA), triethanolamine. These bases are used in sufficient quantities to bring the pH of the emulsion between 5 and 7 and therefore close from that of the skin. It follows a great compatibility of the composition according to the invention with respect to the skin.

    Outre le dérivé d'acide salicylique précité, la composition selon l'invention renferme un extrait de mûrier, avantageusement un extrait de racine de Morus alba, ou une substance isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, de préférence une kuwanone ou un dérivé de celle-ci. Des procédés pour isoler la kuwanone E sont par exemple décrits dans Chemical Abstracts, vol. 89, 1978, abrégé 89:211925f et dans Heterocycles, vol. 9, n° 9, 1978.In addition to the abovementioned salicylic acid derivative, the composition according to the invention contains a mulberry extract, advantageously an extract of Morus alba root, or a substance isolated from such an extract, preferably a kuwanone or a derivative of this one. Methods for isolating kuwanone E are for example described in Chemical Abstracts , vol. 89, 1978, abstract 89: 211925f and in Heterocycles , vol. 9, no. 9, 1978.

    La composition contient également un extrait de scutellaire, avantageusement un extrait de racine de Scutellaria baicalensis, ou une substance isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, de préférence de la baïcaline. The composition also contains an extract of skullcap, advantageously a root extract of Scutellaria baicalensis, or a substance isolated from a such extract, preferably baïcaline.

    Les extraits mentionnés ci-dessus peuvent être préparés par extraction à l'aide d'un solvant aqueux, alcoolique ou organique, suivant toute méthode d'extraction connue de l'homme du métierThe extracts mentioned above can be prepared by extraction using an aqueous, alcoholic or organic solvent, according to any extraction method known to those skilled in the art

    Par solvant aqueux on entend tout solvant constitué totalement ou pour part d'eau. On peut citer ainsi l'eau elle-même, les solvants hydroalcooliques en toute proportion ou encore les solvants constitués d'eau et d'un composé comme le propylène glycol ou le butylène glycol en toute proportion.By aqueous solvent is meant any solvent constituted wholly or partly of water. Mention may thus be made of water itself, hydroalcoholic solvents in all proportion or the solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol in any proportion.

    Parmi les solvants alcooliques on peut citer notamment l'éthanol.Mention may in particular be made, among alcoholic solvents, of ethanol.

    On préfère, dans cette invention, utiliser des extraits de plantes obtenus par extraction à l'aide d'un solvant hydroalcoolique, avantageusement des extraits à 0,5-1,5% de matière active dans 50% d'eau et 48,5-49,5% de butylène glycol.It is preferred, in this invention, to use plant extracts obtained by extraction using a hydroalcoholic solvent, advantageously extracts with 0.5-1.5% active ingredient in 50% water and 48.5-49.5% butylene glycol.

    Quel que soit le mode de préparation utilisé selon l'invention, des étapes subséquentes visant à favoriser la conservation et/ou la stabilisation peuvent être ajoutées sans pour cela modifier la nature même de l'extrait. Ainsi, par exemple l'extrait obtenu peut être lyophilisé par toutes méthodes classiques de lyophilisation. On obtient ainsi une poudre qui peut être utilisée directement ou bien mélangée dans un solvant approprié avant utilisation.Whatever the method of preparation used according to the invention, steps to promote conservation and / or stabilization may be added without changing the very nature of the extract. So for example the extract obtained can be lyophilized by all conventional methods of lyophilization. A powder is thus obtained which can be used directly or mixed well in a suitable solvent before use.

    La quantité de dérivé d'acide salicylique et d'extraits de mûrier et de scutellaire contenue dans la composition selon l'invention est bien évidemment fonction de l'effet de blanchiment ou de dépigmentation recherché et pourra de ce fait varier dans une large mesure. Dans une forme d'exécution préférée, la composition selon l'invention renferme de 0,1 à 5% en poids, avantageusement de 1 à 2% en poids, de dérivé d'acide salicylique ; et de 0,1 à 20% en poids, avantageusement de 0,5 à 1,5% en poids, de chacun des extraits de mûrier et de scutellaire, par rapport au poids total de la composition.The amount of salicylic acid derivative and extracts of mulberry and skullcap contained in the composition according to the invention is obviously a function of the desired bleaching or depigmentation effect and may therefore vary to a large extent. In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention contains from 0.1 to 5% by weight, advantageously from 1 to 2% by weight, salicylic acid derivative; and from 0.1 to 20% by weight, advantageously from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight, of each of the extracts of mulberry and skullcap, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

    La composition selon l'invention est appropriée à une utilisation topique et contient donc un milieu cosmétiquement ou dermatologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire compatible avec la peau, les poils ou les cheveux.The composition according to the invention is suitable for topical use and therefore contains a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, the hairs or the hair.

    La composition selon l'invention peut se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques normalement utilisées pour une application topique, notamment sous forme d'une solution aqueuse, hydroalcoolique ou huileuse, d'une émulsion huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile ou multiple, d'un gel aqueux ou huileux, d'un produit anhydre liquide, pâteux ou solide, d'une dispersion d'huile dans une phase aqueuse à l'aide de sphérules, ces sphérules pouvant être des nanoparticules polymériques telles que des nanosphères et des nanocapsules ou, mieux, des vésicules lipidiques de type ionique et/ou non-ionique.The composition according to the invention can be in any form galenics normally used for topical application, especially under form of an aqueous, hydroalcoholic or oily solution, of an oil-in-water emulsion or water-in-oil or multiple, of an aqueous or oily gel, of a product liquid, pasty or solid anhydrous, of an oil dispersion in a phase aqueous using spherules, these spherules possibly being nanoparticles polymers such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, lipid vesicles of ionic and / or nonionic type.

    Cette composition peut être plus ou moins fluide et avoir l'aspect d'une crème blanche ou colorée, d'une pommade, d'un lait, d'une lotion, d'un sérum, d'une pâte, d'une mousse. Elle peut éventuellement être appliquée sur la peau ou sur les cheveux sous forme d'aérosol. Elle peut également se présenter sous forme solide, et par exemple sous forme de stick. Elle peut être utilisée comme produit de soin et/ou comme produit de maquillage. Elle peut également être sous une forme de shampooing ou d'après-shampooing.This composition can be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream white or colored, ointment, milk, lotion, serum, dough, foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin or on hair in aerosol form. It can also be in the form solid, and for example in the form of a stick. It can be used as a product care and / or as a make-up product. It can also be under a form of shampoo or conditioner.

    De façon connue, la composition selon l'invention peut contenir également les adjuvants habituels dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique, tels que des gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, des actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, des conservateurs, des antioxydants, des solvants, des parfums, des charges, des filtres, des pigments, des absorbeurs d'odeur et des matières colorantes. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans les domaines considérés, et par exemple de 0,01 à 20 % du poids total de la composition. Ces adjuvants, selon leur nature, peuvent être introduits dans la phase grasse, dans la phase aqueuse, dans les vésicules lipidiques et/ou dans les nanoparticules.In known manner, the composition according to the invention can also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, pigments, odor absorbers and coloring matter. The quantities of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in areas considered, for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, in the aqueous phase, in the lipid vesicles and / or in nanoparticles.

    Bien entendu, il sera évident pour l'homme du métier que les composés, actifs ou non actifs, éventuellement ajoutés à la composition seront choisis de manière à ne pas contrevenir au but poursuivi par la présente invention.Of course, it will be obvious to those skilled in the art that the compounds, active or not active, possibly added to the composition will be chosen so as to not to contravene the aim pursued by the present invention.

    Lorsque la composition selon l'invention est une émulsion, la proportion de la phase grasse peut aller de 5 à 80 % en poids, et de préférence de 5 à 50 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les huiles, les émulsionnants et les coémulsionnants utilisés dans la composition sous forme d'émulsion sont choisis parmi ceux classiquement utilisés dans le domaine considéré. L'émulsionnant et le coémulsionnant sont présents, dans la composition, en une proportion allant de 0,3 à 30 % en poids, et de préférence de 0,5 à 20 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. When the composition according to the invention is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Oils, emulsifiers and the coemulsifiers used in the composition in the form of an emulsion are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier and the coemulsifier are present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

    Comme huiles utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer les huiles minérales (huile de vaseline), les huiles d'origine végétale (huile d'avocat, huile de soja), les huiles d'origine animale (lanoline), les huiles de synthèse (perhydrosqualène), les huiles siliconées (cyclométhicone) et les huiles fluorées (perfluoropolyéthers). On peut aussi utiliser comme matières grasses des alcools gras (alcool cétylique), des acides gras, des cires (cire de carnauba, ozokérite).As oils which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (oil petroleum jelly), vegetable oils (avocado oil, soybean oil), oils of animal origin (lanolin), synthetic oils (perhydrosqualene), oils silicone (cyclomethicone) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). We can also use fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol), fatty acids, waxes (carnauba wax, ozokerite).

    Comme émulsionnants et coémulsionnants utilisables dans l'invention, on peut citer par exemple les esters d'acide gras et de polyéthylène glycol tels que le stéarate de PEG-20, et les esters d'acide gras et de glycérine tels que le stéarate de glycéryle.As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers which can be used in the invention, it is possible to quote for example fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol such as PEG-20 stearate, and fatty acid and glycerin esters such as stearate glyceryl.

    Comme gélifiants hydrophiles, on peut citer en particulier les polymères carboxyvinyliques (carbomer), les copolymères acryliques tels que les copolymères d'acrylates/alkylacrylates, les polyacrylamides, les polysaccharides, les gommes naturelles et les argiles, et, comme gélifiants lipophiles, on peut citer les argiles modifiées comme les bentones, les sels métalliques d'acides gras, la silice hydrophobe et les polyéthylènes.As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of polymers carboxyvinyls (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as acrylate / alkylacrylate copolymers, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.

    Comme actifs, on peut utiliser notamment les polyols, les vitamines, les agents kératolytiques et/ou desquamants, les agents anti-inflammatoires, les agents apaisants et leurs mélanges. On peut également ajouter à la composition selon l'invention d'autres agents dépigmentants, tels que l'acide kojique ou l'hydroquinone et ses dérivés, ce qui permet d'utiliser ces derniers à des doses moins élevées. En cas d'incompatibilité, certains au moins des actifs peuvent être incorporés dans des sphérules, notamment des vésicules ioniques ou non-ioniques et/ou des nanoparticules (nanocapsules et/ou nanosphères), de manière à ce que les actifs incompatibles entre eux soient isolés les uns des autres dans la composition.As active agents, it is possible in particular to use polyols, vitamins, agents keratolytics and / or scaling agents, anti-inflammatory agents, agents soothing and their mixtures. We can also add to the composition according to the invention of other depigmenting agents, such as kojic acid or hydroquinone and its derivatives, which allows the latter to be used in doses lower. In the event of incompatibility, at least some of the assets may be incorporated into spherules, in particular ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or nanoparticles (nanocapsules and / or nanospheres), so that the mutually incompatible assets are isolated from each other in the composition.

    On peut aussi utiliser dans ces compositions des filtres UV à propriété lipophile ou hydrophile, tels que l'acide benzène 1,4-di(3-méthylidène-10-camphosulfonique), l'α-cyano-β,-β-diphénylacrylate de 2-éthylhexyle ou octocrylène, le butyl méthoxydibenzoylméthane, l'octyl méthoxycinnamate et/ou les oxydes de titane et de zinc.UV filters with lipophilic property can also be used in these compositions or hydrophilic, such as benzene 1,4-di (3-methylidene-10-camphosulfonic) acid, 2-ethylhexyl α-cyano-β, -β-diphenylacrylate or octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate and / or titanium and zinc oxides.

    Ces compositions constituent notamment des crèmes de protection, de traitement ou de soin pour le visage, pour les mains ou pour le corps, des laits corporels de protection ou de soin, des lotions, gels ou mousses pour le soin ou le traitement de la peau, des lotions de nettoyage ou de désinfection, des compositions pour le bain, des fonds de teint et des crèmes teintées. Dans ces derniers cas, la composition contient des pigments.These compositions constitute in particular protection, treatment creams or care for the face, for the hands or for the body, body milks of protection or care, lotions, gels or foams for care or treatment of the skin, cleansing or disinfecting lotions, compositions for bath, foundations and tinted creams. In these latter cases, the composition contains pigments.

    La composition définie ci-dessus peut être utilisée pour dépigmenter et/ou blanchir la peau humaine et/ou enlever les taches pigmentaires de la peau et/ou dépigmenter les poils et/ou les cheveux ou pour inhiber l'activité de la tyrosinase et/ou la synthèse de la mélanine.The composition defined above can be used to depigment and / or whiten human skin and / or remove pigmentation spots on the skin and / or depigment the hair and / or hair or to inhibit tyrosinase activity and / or the synthesis of melanin.

    Aussi, l'invention se rapporte également à un procédé cosmétique de dépigmentation et/ou blanchiment de la peau humaine, des poils et/ou des cheveux, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer sur la peau, les poils et/ou les cheveux une composition selon l'invention.Also, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for depigmentation and / or bleaching of human skin, body hair and / or hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the skin, the hairs and / or hair a composition according to the invention.

    L'invention va maintenant être illustrée à l'aide des exemples qui suivent. Les concentrations sont données en pourcentage en poids.The invention will now be illustrated by means of the following examples. The concentrations are given as a percentage by weight.

    Exemple 1 - Préparation d'une compositionExample 1 - Preparation of a composition

    On a préparé la composition suivante : A - Glucate SS [Amerchol] (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1,5% Alcools gras 4% Cyclométhicone 5% Acide n-octanoyl 5-salicylique 0,5% Octocrylène (Uvinul N539) 2% Conservateurs 0,1% Parfum 0,2% B - Eau qsp 100 Glycérine 3% Glucamate SSE-20 [Amerchol] (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1,5% Conservateurs 0,5% C - Eau 15% Gomme de xanthanne 0,1% Extrait hydroalcoolique de Racines de Mûrier (à 1 % de matière active) 1% Extrait hydroalcoolique de scutellaire (à 1 % de matière active) 1% D - Sepigel 305 (Seppic) 1% The following composition was prepared: AT - Glucate SS [Amerchol] (Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1.5% Fatty alcohols 4% Cyclomethicone 5% 0.5% n-octanoyl 5-salicylic acid Octocrylene (Uvinul N539) 2% Preservatives 0.1% Perfume 0.2% B - Water qs 100 Glycerin 3% Glucamate SSE-20 [Amerchol] (PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate) 1.5% Preservatives 0.5% VS - Water 15% Xanthan gum 0.1% Hydroalcoholic extract of Mulberry Roots (1% active ingredient) 1% Skullcap hydroalcoholic extract (1% active ingredient) 1% D - Sepigel 305 (Seppic) 1%

    La phase A est chauffée à 75°C jusqu'à parfaite solubilisation, ainsi que la phase B. La phase A est introduite dans la phase B sous agitation, jusqu'à obtention d'une émulsion fine et régulière. La phase C est homogénéisée sous agitation dans l'eau à 40°C puis introduite sous agitation à 40°C au mélange A + B. La phase D est introduite à 40°C et dispersée sous agitation.Phase A is heated to 75 ° C until perfect solubilization, as well as the phase B. Phase A is introduced into phase B with stirring, until obtaining of a fine and regular emulsion. Phase C is homogenized with stirring in water at 40 ° C then introduced with stirring at 40 ° C to the mixture A + B. The phase D is introduced at 40 ° C. and dispersed with stirring.

    Le fluide obtenu est refroidi sous agitation.The fluid obtained is cooled with stirring.

    On obtient une émulsion fluide à propriété dépigmentante.A fluid emulsion with depigmenting property is obtained.

    Exemple 2 - Evaluation de l'effet dépigmentant de la composition de l'Exemple 1Example 2 - Evaluation of the depigmenting effect of the composition of Example 1

    L'activité dépigmentante de la composition selon l'Exemple 1 a été mise en évidence sur un modèle de peau humaine maintenue en survie.The depigmenting activity of the composition according to Example 1 was brought into play. evidence on a human skin model kept alive.

    Pour ce faire, une peau humaine de phototype IV est obtenue en chirurgie plastique. Les fragments de peau sont maintenus en survie ex vivo par culture d'organe, c'est-à-dire qu'ils sont placés dans des inserts mis en suspension au-dessus de puits de culture et maintenus en survie à l'aide du milieu de culture déposé au fond des puits. Le milieu de culture est renouvelé trois fois par semaine.To do this, human skin of phototype IV is obtained in plastic surgery. The skin fragments are maintained in survival ex vivo by organ culture, that is to say that they are placed in inserts suspended above culture wells and maintained in survival using the culture medium deposited at the bottom of the wells. The culture medium is renewed three times a week.

    Les produits ci-dessous sont appliqués une fois par jour sur les fragments ci-dessus, à raison de 2 mg/cm2 de peau, cinq jours par semaine, pendant 21 jours :

  • Produit A l'excipient
  • Produit B l'excipient + 0,5 % d'acide n-octanoyl-5-salicylique
  • Produit C l'excipient + 1 % d'extraits végétaux (Mûrier + scutellaire)
  • Produit D l'excipient + 0,5 % d'acide n-octanoyl-5-salicylique + 1 % d'extraits
  • végétaux (composition selon l'Exemple 1)
    • The products below are applied once a day to the above fragments, at a rate of 2 mg / cm 2 of skin, five days a week, for 21 days:
  • Product With excipient
  • Product B excipient + 0.5% n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid
  • Product C excipient + 1% plant extracts (Mulberry + skullcap)
  • Product D excipient + 0.5% n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid + 1% extracts
  • plants (composition according to Example 1)

    • A titre de comparaison, un fragment de peau non traitée est également maintenu en survie dans les mêmes conditions.For comparison, an untreated skin fragment is also maintained surviving under the same conditions.

    Après 21 jours, une évaluation quantitative du pourcentage de cellules basales (kératinocytes et mélanocytes) renfermant des grains de mélanine est réalisée histologiquement au microscope optique, sur cinq champs, au grossissement 40, après coloration à l'hemalun-éosine (méthode Fontana).After 21 days, a quantitative assessment of the percentage of basal cells (keratinocytes and melanocytes) containing melanin grains is produced histologically under an optical microscope, on five fields, at 40 magnification, after coloring with hemalun-eosin (Fontana method).

    Trois catégories de cellules sont dénombrées :

  • Score 1 : cellules faiblement pigmentées ou non pigmentées
  • Score 2 : cellules moyennement pigmentées, c'est-à-dire présentant une charge modérée en mélanine (grains de mélanine épars, dépôt non homogène)
  • Score 3 : cellules fortement pigmentées, c'est-à-dire présentant une charge importante en mélanine (dépôt homogène recouvrant plus de la moitié du cytoplasme des cellules).
    • Three categories of cells are counted:
  • Score 1: weakly pigmented or non-pigmented cells
  • Score 2: moderately pigmented cells, i.e. cells with a moderate melanin load (scattered melanin grains, non-homogeneous deposit)
  • Score 3: highly pigmented cells, that is to say having a high melanin load (homogeneous deposit covering more than half of the cytoplasm of the cells).

    • Les résultats sont rassemblés dans le Tableau 1 suivant.

    Figure 00110001
    The results are collated in Table 1 below.
    Figure 00110001

    Un indice de mélanine est calculé à partir de ce dénombrement suivant la formule IM = 1 x (Score 1) + 2 x (Score 2) + 3 x (Score 3). A melanin index is calculated from this count according to the formula MI = 1 x (Score 1) + 2 x (Score 2) + 3 x (Score 3).

    A partir de cet indice, il est possible de calculer un pourcentage d'inhibition de mélanine : % d'inhibition = IM (Te) - IM (Tr)IM (Te) x 100 où :

    IM (Te)
    désigne l'Indice de Mélanine de la peau non traitée
    IM (Tr)
    désigne l'Indice de Mélanine de la peau traitée avec le produit A, B, C ou D testé
    From this index, it is possible to calculate a percentage of melanin inhibition: % inhibition = IM (Te) - IM (Tr) IM (Te) x 100 or :
    IM (Te)
    denotes the Melanin Index of untreated skin
    IM (Tr)
    denotes the Melanin Index of the skin treated with the product A, B, C or D tested

    Les résultats sont rassemblés dans le Tableau 2 suivant.

    Figure 00120001
    The results are collated in the following Table 2.
    Figure 00120001

    Il n'y a pas de différence notable entre la peau non traitée et la peau traitée avec les produits A, B et C.There is no noticeable difference between untreated skin and skin treated with products A, B and C.

    Par contre, par rapport à la peau non traitée ou à la peau traitée avec les produits A, B et C, la composition selon l'invention permet de diminuer significativement le nombre de cellules fortement pigmentées, d'augmenter le nombre de cellules moyennement pigmentées et d'obtenir ainsi un taux d'inhibition de la mélanine de 16%.By cons, compared to untreated skin or skin treated with the products A, B and C, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce the number of highly pigmented cells, increase the number of cells moderately pigmented and thus obtain a melanin inhibition rate of 16%.

    Claims (15)

    Composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique renfermant, en association, au moins un extrait de mûrier ou une substance active isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, au moins un extrait de scutellaire, ou une substance active isolée à partir d'un tel extrait, et au moins un dérivé d'acide salicylique de formule (I) ou un sel d'un tel dérivé :
    Figure 00130001
    dans laquelle : R représente un atome d'hydrogène ou une chaíne aliphatique alcoxy, ester ou cétoxy, saturée ou insaturée, linéaire, ramifiée ou cyclisée, ces chaínes comportant de 2 à 22 atomes de carbone et pouvant être substituées par au moins un substituant choisi parmi les atomes d'halogène, le groupement trifluorométhyle, les groupements hydroxyle sous forme libre ou estérifiée par un acide ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ou bien par une fonction carboxyle, libre ou estérifiée par un alcool inférieur ayant de 1 à 6 atomes de carbone ; et R' représente un groupement hydroxyle ou une fonction ester de formule :
    Figure 00130002
    où R1 est un groupement aliphatique saturé ou insaturé ayant de 1 à 18 atomes de carbone.         Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition containing, in combination, at least one mulberry extract or an active substance isolated from such an extract, at least one skullcap extract, or an active substance isolated from such an extract, and at least one salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) or a salt of such a derivative:
    Figure 00130001
    in which : R represents a hydrogen atom or an aliphatic alkoxy, ester or ketoxy chain, saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclized, these chains comprising from 2 to 22 carbon atoms and which can be substituted by at least one substituent chosen from atoms halogen, the trifluoromethyl group, the hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified by an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or else by a carboxyl function, free or esterified by a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; and R 'represents a hydroxyl group or an ester function of formula:
    Figure 00130002
    where R 1 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.     Composition selon la revendication 1, caractérisée en ce que le dérivé d'acide salicylique est choisi parmi les acides salicylique, n-octanoyl-5-salicylique, n-décanoyl-5-salicylique et n-dodécanoyl-5-salicylique. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the acid derivative salicylic acid is chosen from salicylic acid, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid, n-decanoyl-5-salicylic acid and n-dodecanoyl-5-salicylic acid. Composition selon la revendication 1 ou 2, caractérisée en ce que le dérivé d'acide salicylique est l'acide n-octanoyl-5 salicylique.Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the derivative salicylic acid is n-octanoyl-5 salicylic acid. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit dérivé d'acide salicylique ou son sel est présent en une concentration allant de 0,1 à 5 % en poids, et de préférence en une concentration de 1 à 2% en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said salicylic acid derivative or its salt is present in a concentration ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and preferably in a concentration of 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'au moins l'un desdits extraits est un extrait hydroalcoolique.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that at least one of said extracts is a hydroalcoholic extract. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait de mûrier est un extrait de racine de Morus alba.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said mulberry extract is an extract of Morus root alba. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce que ledit extrait de scutellaire est un extrait de racine de Scutellaria baïcalensis.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said skullcap extract is an extract of root of Scutellaria baïcalensis. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle renferme de 0,1 à 20% en poids de chacun desdits extraits, et de préférence de 0,5 à 1,5% en poids de chacun desdits extraits, par rapport au poids total de la composition.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains from 0.1 to 20% by weight of each of the said extracts, and preferably from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight of each of said extracts, by relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisée en ce que ladite substance active isolée à partir de l'extrait de scutellaire est la baïcaline.Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that said active substance isolated from skullcap extract is the baïcaline. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 7 et 9, caractérisée en ce que ladite substance isolée à partir de l'extrait de mûrier est une kuwanone ou un dérivé de celle-ci.Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7 and 9, characterized in that said substance isolated from mulberry extract is a kuwanone or a derivative thereof. Composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient un milieu cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable.Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable. Utilisation cosmétique d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes pour dépigmenter et/ou blanchir la peau humaine et/ou enlever les taches pigmentaires de la peau et/ou dépigmenter les poils et/ou les cheveux.Cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of previous claims for depigmenting and / or bleaching human skin and / or remove pigment spots from the skin and / or depigment the hairs and / or hair. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications précédentes pour la fabrication d'une préparation destinée à dépigmenter et/ou blanchir la peau humaine et/ou enlever les taches pigmentaires de la peau et/ou dépigmenter les poils et/ou les cheveux.Use of a composition according to any one of the claims for the manufacture of a preparation intended to depigment and / or whiten human skin and / or remove pigmentation spots on the skin and / or depigment the hairs and / or hair. Utilisation d'une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11 pour la fabrication d'une préparation destinée à inhiber l'activité de la tyrosinase et/ou la synthèse de la mélanine.Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for the manufacture of a preparation intended to inhibit the activity of tyrosinase and / or melanin synthesis. Procédé cosmétique de dépigmentation et/ou blanchiment de la peau humaine, des poils et/ou des cheveux, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à appliquer sur la peau, les poils et/ou les cheveux une composition selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 11.Cosmetic process for depigmentation and / or skin whitening human, body hair and / or hair, characterized in that it consists in applying on the skin, hair and / or hair, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.
    EP99402163A 1998-10-12 1999-08-30 Skin and/or hair whitening composition Expired - Lifetime EP0997140B1 (en)

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    US8772252B2 (en) 2011-01-27 2014-07-08 New York University Coumarin compounds as melanogenesis modifiers and uses thereof
    WO2019068824A1 (en) * 2017-10-06 2019-04-11 Plant Advanced Technologies Pat Root extracts from plants of the morus genus and uses of same
    FR3072025A1 (en) * 2017-10-06 2019-04-12 Plant Advanced Technologies Pat RACINARY EXTRACTS OF MORUS PLANTS AND USES THEREOF
    CN111201028A (en) * 2017-10-06 2020-05-26 普兰特先进技术公司 Root extract of Morus plant and its application
    US11311593B2 (en) 2017-10-06 2022-04-26 Plant Advanced Technologies Pat Root extracts from plants of the Morus genus and uses of same
    EP4072510A4 (en) * 2019-12-09 2023-09-06 L'oreal Composition for brightening and/or whitening keratin materials

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    DE69900081D1 (en) 2001-05-17
    US6348204B1 (en) 2002-02-19
    CN1261528A (en) 2000-08-02
    JP3638832B2 (en) 2005-04-13
    EP0997140B1 (en) 2001-04-11
    DE69900081T2 (en) 2001-08-02
    CA2286409C (en) 2006-05-16
    JP2000119127A (en) 2000-04-25
    FR2784294B1 (en) 2000-11-17
    FR2784294A1 (en) 2000-04-14
    ATE200419T1 (en) 2001-04-15
    ES2157684T3 (en) 2001-08-16
    TW529956B (en) 2003-05-01
    CA2286409A1 (en) 2000-04-12
    KR20000028982A (en) 2000-05-25
    KR100345096B1 (en) 2002-07-24
    CN1217644C (en) 2005-09-07

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