EP0937801B1 - Manufacturing process of reinforcing textile for stiffening garment fabrics, reinforcing textile, and applications - Google Patents

Manufacturing process of reinforcing textile for stiffening garment fabrics, reinforcing textile, and applications Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0937801B1
EP0937801B1 EP99400381A EP99400381A EP0937801B1 EP 0937801 B1 EP0937801 B1 EP 0937801B1 EP 99400381 A EP99400381 A EP 99400381A EP 99400381 A EP99400381 A EP 99400381A EP 0937801 B1 EP0937801 B1 EP 0937801B1
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
textile support
support according
textile
layer
stitches
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
EP99400381A
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German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0937801A1 (en
Inventor
Pierrot Groshens
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Lainiere de Picardie BC SAS
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Publication of EP0937801A1 publication Critical patent/EP0937801A1/en
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Publication of EP0937801B1 publication Critical patent/EP0937801B1/en
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Classifications

    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04HMAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/52Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by applying or inserting filamentary binding elements
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41WEARING APPAREL
    • A41DOUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D27/00Details of garments or of their making
    • A41D27/02Linings
    • A41D27/06Stiffening-pieces
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B21/00Warp knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B21/14Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes
    • D04B21/16Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads
    • D04B21/165Fabrics characterised by the incorporation by knitting, in one or more thread, fleece, or fabric layers, of reinforcing, binding, or decorative threads; Fabrics incorporating small auxiliary elements, e.g. for decorative purposes incorporating synthetic threads with yarns stitched through one or more layers or tows, e.g. stitch-bonded fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04HMAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/45Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by forming intermeshing loops or stitches from some of the fibres
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04HMAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H13/00Other non-woven fabrics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/04Heat-responsive characteristics
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/45Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/45Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
    • Y10T442/456Including additional strand inserted within knit fabric
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/45Knit fabric is characterized by a particular or differential knit pattern other than open knit fabric or a fabric in which the strand denier is specified
    • Y10T442/456Including additional strand inserted within knit fabric
    • Y10T442/463Warp knit insert strand
    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y10TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC
    • Y10TTECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER US CLASSIFICATION
    • Y10T442/00Fabric [woven, knitted, or nonwoven textile or cloth, etc.]
    • Y10T442/40Knit fabric [i.e., knit strand or strip material]
    • Y10T442/494Including a nonwoven fabric layer other than paper

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a textile support for reinforcing clothing or pieces of clothing.
  • the invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a support. textile, as well as its applications.
  • Textile reinforcement supports are intended to give clothing on which they are fixed, the touch, the flexibility, and the nervousness sought.
  • US-A-5,065,599 describes a textile support of the knitted or knitted type halftone comprising sections of embossed wire and having the function of facilitating hanging an icing wire.
  • This document does not relate to a fabric covering comprising a layer of nonwoven in order to meet the requirements in terms of weight and volume.
  • US-A-3,992,904 describes a nonwoven fabric obtained by sewing-knitting comprising a layer of fibers and a knitted fabric.
  • the textile described in this document is a ready-made fabric, so it is not suitable for strengthening clothing.
  • patent FR-A-2,645,180 describes a product comprising a layer of non-woven textile, a weft, a knitted thread ensuring the connection of the weft with the layer of nonwoven fabric and a layer of iron-on adhesive.
  • the invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks.
  • a textile support for strengthening a garment or pieces of clothing in the form of a textile layer nonwoven reinforced with one or more knitted fabrics, the stitches of the or knitwear with yarn over at least two columns of stitches.
  • the throws are made on each row of sts.
  • they are made on a row of meshes out of two, or still on a row of stitches on three or four, or even more.
  • the textile support of the invention further comprises, short weft threads, unwinding in the direction of throws.
  • the short weft threads do not participate in the formation of the mesh and have for function, in particular, to increase the stability of the support.
  • the textile support of the invention further includes a second knitted fabric, the stitches of the second fabric also showing yarn over at least two columns of mesh.
  • This second knit is preferably superimposed on the first knit and has for function including increasing the volume of the textile support.
  • This second knitting is made from yarns of compositions and / or titrations identical or different from those used for the first knitting.
  • the second knit has the same or different yarns than the first knitting.
  • the first knitted yarn knitted fabric has throws in two mesh columns while the second knitted yarn knit has thrown on three columns of mesh.
  • the knitting is made from synthetic or artificial textured yarns.
  • Textured synthetic yarns include, for example, multifilament yarns.
  • the number and the strand titration of the filaments are generally chosen depending on resilience or elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support.
  • unit strand titration of filaments can be between 1 decitex and 35 decitex.
  • the multifilament yarns can comprise from 6 to 150 filaments.
  • Textured yarns include, for example, polyamide yarns, in particular of polyamide 6 or 6.6, polyester, viscose, as well as the derivatives and / or mixtures of these products.
  • Texturing is obtained using, for example, a conventional technique of texturing by false twist or an air texturing technique.
  • the density of the knit is generally chosen according to the flexibility that we want to give the textile support and the titration of the yarns used.
  • the density of meshes is thus between 2 meshes per cm and 20 meshes per cm.
  • the invention also relates to the applications of the textile support of the invention, in particular for the interlining of garments or pieces of clothing, such as jackets, breastplates, pants, ties, shirts or the like, as well as clothes or pieces of clothing comprising at least one textile support according to the invention.
  • FIGS. 1 to 5 represent views schematic in elevation and flat of different embodiments of the textile support of the invention.
  • the textile support 1 intended for the reinforcement of garments or pieces of clothing has a layer of non-woven fabric 2.
  • This layer 2 mainly has the role of giving the textile support 1 a significant volume in relation to its weight.
  • the binding may consist, for example, of a thermal binding, in particular a binding or hot pre-binding.
  • the binding may also consist of a needling or pre-needling.
  • the binding can be carried out by water jets or by an agent chemical.
  • Tying and pre-tying techniques are generally chosen according to the nature of the fibers or filaments used for the non-woven textile layer.
  • the nonwoven textile layer 2 is made from fibers or filaments natural continuous, such as cellulose or wool, from fibers or filaments synthetic continuous materials such as polyamide or polyester, or from fibers or continuous artificial filaments, such as viscose, as well as derivatives and / or mixtures of these products.
  • the fibers or filaments used for the production of the non-woven textile layer 2 for example, have a titration greater than 1 decitex.
  • the non-woven textile layer 2 is produced at from microfibers or microfilaments with a titer of less than 1 decitex.
  • the nonwoven fabric layer 2 generally has a grammage varying from 15 to 100 g / m 2 .
  • This layer of nonwoven fabric 2 is reinforced by a knitted fabric 3 having for the function, in particular, of reinforcing the cohesion of the nonwoven textile web, and provide elasticity both in the weft direction and in the direction chain.
  • Knitting 3 is a knitted fabric, having yarns 4 on at least two 5 mesh columns.
  • Throws are obtained by passing the knitting threads over needles different from the trade, to each row of meshes (or to a determined number of rows of stitches).
  • the throws 4 are made on two 5 mesh columns. It is also possible to make the throws on three, four or more columns of stitches, such as shown in figure 3.
  • the throws 4 are produced on each row 6 of stitches ( Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5).
  • the throws 4 are produced on a row 6 of out of two stitches ( Figure 1).
  • the textile support 1 of the invention further comprises short weft son 7, unwinding in the sense of throws.
  • the short weft 7 is made from mono- or multifilament, flat or textured, natural, synthetic or artificial, such as those described previously.
  • the textile support 1 of the invention comprises two knitted yarn knits, each with yarns on at least two columns of mesh.
  • a first knitted 8 with knitted stitches is produced, presenting throws 9 out of three 5 columns of stitches, each row 6 of stitches.
  • first knit 8 is superimposed a second knit 10 with knitted stitches, with throws 11 on two columns 5 of mesh, each row 6 of sts.
  • the textile support of the invention comprises a iron-on adhesive material.
  • the fusible material constitutes a adhesive layer and is selected from any of those commonly used to laminate reinforcing fabrics to textiles before receiving them.
  • These subtances can be in the form of powder or paste.
  • the methods coating techniques can be used, for example coating methods by screen printing type.
  • the adhesive layer can be deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile, as dots, double dots, or lines.
  • nonwoven fabrics are themselves known. Any of them can be used for make the nonwoven textile layer 2 of the textile support of the invention.
  • Layer 2 can have a binding or pre-binding, as has been described previously. This binding or pre-binding can be carried out by the methods described above, for example by making a non-woven textile layer weakly needled or pre-needled.
  • This type of nonwoven fabric 2 is fed with a type of loom "RACHEL” or "MALI” type.
  • the layer is deposited between the needle bed and the felling plate nonwoven 2.
  • a needle cooperates in known manner with bars passettes for knitting.
  • the layer of nonwoven fabric 2 is pierced by the needles of the trade and is therefore maintained by knitting.
  • the sons of knitting undergo a retraction which causes a reduction in the dimensions of the textile support produced.
  • This shrinkage treatment is to impart crimp and volume, as well as an elastic capacity, with textile support.
  • the shrinkage decreases the dimensions of the layer of nonwoven fabric, in it giving a volume greater than that which it had initially.
  • This mode combination of a non-woven tablecloth and a retractable knitted yarn allows to obtain a textile support having good nervousness both in the warp and weft direction, while retaining extensibility determined by the conditions of the withdrawal treatment.
  • the rate of elongation of the knitted yarns, after treatment of retraction varies from 4 to 20%.
  • the retraction of the knitting yarns decreases the width and length of the layer of nonwoven fabric 2, it therefore increases its average thickness compressed during knitting and thereby its volume, forcing the fibers to a crimping effect under the action of retraction.
  • the knitting fibers are shrunk, for example with a process classic shrinking by hot water, steam or hot air.
  • the textile support is then subjected to conventional finishing operations, the shrinkage that may occur during these finishing operations.
  • thermoadhesive on the textile support is then optionally deposited thermoadhesive on the textile support.
  • This coating is preferably a coating by points, carried out for example with an engraving cylinder of the type serigraphy.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Laminated Bodies (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Tubular Articles Or Embedded Moulded Articles (AREA)

Abstract

The garment interlining fabric (1) has a non woven layer (2) reinforced by one or more knitted layers (2) with floating stitches (3) in floats (4) extending over two or more wales (5). The floats (4) are formed in each row (6) of stitches, or one row in two or more. Each float (4) covers two wales (5) or three or four wales or more. The fabric has a number of short wefts, along the line of the floats, and form part of the stitches. The wefts are mono- or multi filaments, smooth or textured, of natural or synthetic or artificial fibers. A second knitted layer, with floating stitches, has the floats covering at least two wales, placed over the first knitted layer. The yarns in the second knitted layer have a composition and/or thickness which is the same as or different from the yarns in the first knitted layer. The floats in the second layer are the same as or differ from those in the first layer. Textured yarns are of unified multi filaments of 1-35 decitex with 6-150 filaments. The non woven layer (2) is of fibers or continuous filaments of natural materials such as wool or cellulose, synthetic or artificial fibers. The fibers or filaments for the non woven layer (2) have a thickness ≥ 1 decitex, or they are micro fibers or micro filaments with a thickness of ≤ 1 decitex. The non woven layer (2) has a weight of 15-100 g/m<2>. The knitted layers have a stitch density of 2-20 stitches/cm. The knitted yarns are treated in a shrinking stage with a stretch of 4-20% after shrinking. The fabric surface is treated with a heat-setting adhesive. The adhesive is deposited in dots, double dots or lines. An Independent claim is included for a manufacturing process where a non woven layer is reinforced with warp knitting to give at least one knitted layer (3) with floating stitches covering at least two wales. The combined fabric (1) is shrunk, and a heat-setting adhesive is applied to at least one surface.

Description

L'invention se rapporte à un support textile pour le renforcement de vêtements ou de pièces de vêtement.The invention relates to a textile support for reinforcing clothing or pieces of clothing.

L'invention se rapporte également à un procédé de fabrication d'un tel support textile, ainsi qu'à ses applications.The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing such a support. textile, as well as its applications.

Les supports textiles de renforcement sont destinés à donner aux vêtements sur lesquels ils sont fixés, le toucher, la souplesse, et la nervosité recherchés.Textile reinforcement supports are intended to give clothing on which they are fixed, the touch, the flexibility, and the nervousness sought.

US-A-5 065 599 décrit un support textile de type tricot maille ou tricot maille tramée comportant des tronçons de fil en relief et ayant pour fonction de faciliter l'accrochage d'un fil de glaçage.US-A-5,065,599 describes a textile support of the knitted or knitted type halftone comprising sections of embossed wire and having the function of facilitating hanging an icing wire.

Ce document ne concerne pas un textile d'entoilage comportant une couche de non tissé dans le but de répondre aux exigences en terme de poids et de volume.This document does not relate to a fabric covering comprising a layer of nonwoven in order to meet the requirements in terms of weight and volume.

US-A-3 992 904 décrit un textile non tissé obtenu par couture-tricotage comprenant une couche de fibres et un tricot.US-A-3,992,904 describes a nonwoven fabric obtained by sewing-knitting comprising a layer of fibers and a knitted fabric.

Le textile décrit dans ce document est un tissu de confection, il n'est donc pas adapté pour le renforcement de vêtements.The textile described in this document is a ready-made fabric, so it is not suitable for strengthening clothing.

Différentes propositions ont déjà été faites pour réaliser des supports textiles thermocollants destinés à l'entoilage et incorporant une couche de textile non-tissé.Different proposals have already been made to make textile supports fusible sheets intended for interlining and incorporating a layer of nonwoven fabric.

Par exemple, le brevet FR-A-2 645 180 décrit un produit comportant une couche de textile non-tissé, une trame, un fil tricoté assurant la liaison de la trame avec la couche de textile non-tissé et une couche d'adhésif thermocollant.For example, patent FR-A-2,645,180 describes a product comprising a layer of non-woven textile, a weft, a knitted thread ensuring the connection of the weft with the layer of nonwoven fabric and a layer of iron-on adhesive.

Un produit similaire est décrit dans EP 0 369 046 A.A similar product is described in EP 0 369 046 A.

Les produits proposés jusqu'à ce jour ne permettent cependant pas dans tous les cas, de répondre aux exigences en termes de poids qui doit être faible, de volume qui, au contraire, doit être important, de nervosité, d'élasticité et de stabilité dimensionnelle. The products offered to date do not however allow in all the cases, to meet the requirements in terms of weight which must be low, of volume which, on the contrary, must be significant, of nervousness, elasticity and dimensional stability.

L'invention vise donc à remédier à ces inconvénients.The invention therefore aims to remedy these drawbacks.

A cet effet, elle propose un support textile pour le renforcement d'un vêtement ou de pièces de vêtement, se présentant sous la forme d'une couche de textile non-tissé renforcé par un ou plusieurs tricots à mailles jetées, les mailles du ou des tricots présentant des jetés sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles.To this end, it offers a textile support for strengthening a garment or pieces of clothing, in the form of a textile layer nonwoven reinforced with one or more knitted fabrics, the stitches of the or knitwear with yarn over at least two columns of stitches.

Selon d'autres caractéristiques, les jetés sont réalisés sur chaque rangée de mailles. En variante, ils sont réalisés sur une rangée de mailles sur deux, ou encore sur une rangée de mailles sur trois ou quatre, voire plus.According to other characteristics, the throws are made on each row of sts. As a variant, they are made on a row of meshes out of two, or still on a row of stitches on three or four, or even more.

Selon une forme d'exécution, le support textile de l'invention comprend, de plus, des fils de trame courte, se dévidant dans le sens des jetés.According to one embodiment, the textile support of the invention further comprises, short weft threads, unwinding in the direction of throws.

Les fils de trame courte ne participent pas à la formation de la maille et ont pour fonction, notamment, d'augmenter la stabilité du support.The short weft threads do not participate in the formation of the mesh and have for function, in particular, to increase the stability of the support.

Selon encore une autre forme d'exécution, le support textile de l'invention comprend de plus un second tricot à mailles jetées, les mailles du second tricot présentant également des jetés sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles.According to yet another embodiment, the textile support of the invention further includes a second knitted fabric, the stitches of the second fabric also showing yarn over at least two columns of mesh.

Ce second tricot est, de préférence, superposé au premier tricot et a pour fonction notamment d'augmenter le volume du support textile.This second knit is preferably superimposed on the first knit and has for function including increasing the volume of the textile support.

Ce second tricot est réalisé à partir de fils de compositions et/ou de titrages identiques ou différents de ceux utilisés pour le premier tricot.This second knitting is made from yarns of compositions and / or titrations identical or different from those used for the first knitting.

Le second tricot présente des jetés identiques ou différents de ceux du premier tricot.The second knit has the same or different yarns than the first knitting.

Par exemple, le premier tricot à mailles jetées présente des jetés sur deux colonnes de mailles tandis que le second tricot à mailles jetées présente des jetés sur trois colonnes de mailles.For example, the first knitted yarn knitted fabric has throws in two mesh columns while the second knitted yarn knit has thrown on three columns of mesh.

Le tricot est réalisé à partir de fils synthétiques ou artificiels texturés.The knitting is made from synthetic or artificial textured yarns.

Les fils synthétiques texturés comprennent par exemple les fils multifilaments. Textured synthetic yarns include, for example, multifilament yarns.

Le nombre et le titrage au brin unitaire des filaments sont généralement choisis en fonction de la résilience ou de l'élasticité, du volume et de la souplesse souhaités pour le support textile. Par exemple, le titrage au brin unitaire des filaments peut être compris entre 1 décitex et 35 décitex.The number and the strand titration of the filaments are generally chosen depending on resilience or elasticity, volume and flexibility desired for the textile support. For example, unit strand titration of filaments can be between 1 decitex and 35 decitex.

Les fils multifilaments peuvent comprendre de 6 à 150 filaments.The multifilament yarns can comprise from 6 to 150 filaments.

Les fils texturés comprennent par exemple les fils de polyamide, notamment de polyamide 6 ou 6.6, de polyester, de viscose, ainsi que les dérivés et/ou mélanges de ces produits.Textured yarns include, for example, polyamide yarns, in particular of polyamide 6 or 6.6, polyester, viscose, as well as the derivatives and / or mixtures of these products.

La texturation est obtenue en utilisant, par exemple, une technique classique de texturation par fausse torsion ou une technique de texturation par air.Texturing is obtained using, for example, a conventional technique of texturing by false twist or an air texturing technique.

La densité du tricot est généralement choisie en fonction de la souplesse que l'on souhaite conférer au support textile et du titrage des fils utilisés. La densité de mailles est ainsi comprise entre 2 mailles par cm et 20 mailles par cm.The density of the knit is generally chosen according to the flexibility that we want to give the textile support and the titration of the yarns used. The density of meshes is thus between 2 meshes per cm and 20 meshes per cm.

L'invention vise également un procédé de fabrication d'un support textile destiné au renforcement de vêtements ou de pièces de vêtement du type dans lequel :

  • on constitue une nappe de textile non-tissé,
  • on renforce sur un métier de type "chaíne" la cohésion de la nappe de textile non-tissé avec au moins un tricot à mailles jetées, les mailles du tricot présentant des jetés sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles,
  • on procède au finissage du support textile ainsi obtenu, au cours duquel le tricot maille subit une rétraction,
  • éventuellement, on réalise le dépôt d'une couche de matière thermoadhésive sur au moins l'une des faces du support textile.
The invention also relates to a method of manufacturing a textile support intended for reinforcing garments or pieces of garment of the type in which:
  • a nonwoven fabric is formed,
  • the cohesion of the nonwoven fabric ply is reinforced on a “chain” type loom with at least one knitted fabric, the knitted stitches having yarn over at least two columns of stitches,
  • the textile support thus obtained is finished, during which the knitted fabric undergoes a retraction,
  • optionally, a layer of thermoadhesive material is deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile support.

L'invention vise également les applications du support textile de l'invention, notamment pour l'entoilage de vêtements ou de pièces de vêtement, tels que vestes, plastrons, pantalons, cravates, chemises ou analogue, ainsi que les vêtements ou pièces de vêtement comportant au moins un support textile selon l'invention.The invention also relates to the applications of the textile support of the invention, in particular for the interlining of garments or pieces of clothing, such as jackets, breastplates, pants, ties, shirts or the like, as well as clothes or pieces of clothing comprising at least one textile support according to the invention.

L'invention sera bien comprise dans la description qui suit, faite en référence aux figures annexées dans lesquelles les figures 1 à 5 représentent des vues schématiques en élévation et à plat de différents modes de réalisation du support textile de l'invention.The invention will be clearly understood in the description which follows, given with reference to the appended figures in which FIGS. 1 to 5 represent views schematic in elevation and flat of different embodiments of the textile support of the invention.

En se référant maintenant aux figures, le support textile 1 destiné au renforcement de vêtements ou pièces de vêtement comporte une couche de textile non-tissé 2.Referring now to the figures, the textile support 1 intended for the reinforcement of garments or pieces of clothing has a layer of non-woven fabric 2.

Cette couche 2 a principalement pour rôle de donner au support textile 1 un volume important par rapport à son poids.This layer 2 mainly has the role of giving the textile support 1 a significant volume in relation to its weight.

Elle est réalisée à partir d'une nappe peu compactée de fibres ou de filaments continus et subit éventuellement un liage minimum pour donner une cohésion aux fibres.It is made from a sheet of little compacted fibers or filaments continuous and possibly undergoes minimum binding to give cohesion with fibers.

Le liage peut consister par exemple en un liage thermique, notamment un liage ou pré-liage à chaud. Le liage peut également consister en un aiguilletage ou pré-aiguilletage.The binding may consist, for example, of a thermal binding, in particular a binding or hot pre-binding. The binding may also consist of a needling or pre-needling.

Alternativement, le liage peut être réalisé par jets d'eau ou par un agent chimique.Alternatively, the binding can be carried out by water jets or by an agent chemical.

Les techniques de liage et de pré-liage sont en général choisies en fonction de la nature des fibres ou filaments utilisés pour la couche de textile non-tissé.Tying and pre-tying techniques are generally chosen according to the nature of the fibers or filaments used for the non-woven textile layer.

La couche de textile non-tissé 2 est réalisée à partir de fibres ou filaments continus naturels, tels que cellulose ou laine, à partir de fibres ou filaments continus synthétiques tels que polyamide ou polyester, ou à partir de fibres ou filaments continus artificiels, tels que viscose, ainsi que les dérivés et/ou mélanges de ces produits.The nonwoven textile layer 2 is made from fibers or filaments natural continuous, such as cellulose or wool, from fibers or filaments synthetic continuous materials such as polyamide or polyester, or from fibers or continuous artificial filaments, such as viscose, as well as derivatives and / or mixtures of these products.

Les fibres ou filaments utilisés pour la réalisation de la couche de textile non-tissé 2 possèdent par exemple un titrage supérieur à 1 décitex.The fibers or filaments used for the production of the non-woven textile layer 2, for example, have a titration greater than 1 decitex.

Selon un autre mode d'exécution, la couche de textile non-tissé 2 est réalisée à partir de microfibres ou de microfilaments d'un titrage inférieur à 1 décitex.According to another embodiment, the non-woven textile layer 2 is produced at from microfibers or microfilaments with a titer of less than 1 decitex.

La couche de textile non-tissé 2 possède généralement un grammage variant de 15 à 100 g/m2. The nonwoven fabric layer 2 generally has a grammage varying from 15 to 100 g / m 2 .

Cette couche de textile non-tissé 2 est renforcée par un tricot maille 3 ayant pour fonction, notamment, de renforcer la cohésion de la nappe du textile non-tissé, et de procurer une élasticité à la fois dans le sens trame et dans le sens chaíne.This layer of nonwoven fabric 2 is reinforced by a knitted fabric 3 having for the function, in particular, of reinforcing the cohesion of the nonwoven textile web, and provide elasticity both in the weft direction and in the direction chain.

Le tricot 3 est un tricot à mailles jetées, présentant des jetés 4 sur au moins deux colonnes 5 de mailles.Knitting 3 is a knitted fabric, having yarns 4 on at least two 5 mesh columns.

Les jetés sont obtenus par le passage des fils de tricotage sur des aiguilles différentes du métier, à chaque rangée de mailles (ou à un nombre déterminé de rangées de mailles).Throws are obtained by passing the knitting threads over needles different from the trade, to each row of meshes (or to a determined number of rows of stitches).

Sur les modes d'exécution représentés sur les figures 1, 2 et 4, les jetés 4 sont réalisés sur deux colonnes 5 de mailles. Il est également envisageable de réaliser les jetés sur trois, quatre ou plus colonnes de mailles, tel que représenté sur la figure 3.On the embodiments represented in FIGS. 1, 2 and 4, the throws 4 are made on two 5 mesh columns. It is also possible to make the throws on three, four or more columns of stitches, such as shown in figure 3.

Selon un mode d'exécution de l'invention, les jetés 4 sont réalisés sur chaque rangée 6 de mailles (figures 2, 3, 4 et 5).According to one embodiment of the invention, the throws 4 are produced on each row 6 of stitches (Figures 2, 3, 4 and 5).

Selon un autre mode d'exécution, les jetés 4 sont réalisés sur une rangée 6 de mailles sur deux (figure 1).According to another embodiment, the throws 4 are produced on a row 6 of out of two stitches (Figure 1).

Il est également envisageable de réaliser un tricot présentant des jetés sur une rangée 6 de mailles sur trois ou quatre, voire plus.It is also conceivable to make a knitted fabric having throws on a row 6 of stitches out of three, four or more.

Sur le mode d'exécution représenté sur la figure 4, le support textile 1 de l'invention comprend de plus des fils de trame courte 7, se dévidant dans le sens des jetés.In the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, the textile support 1 of the invention further comprises short weft son 7, unwinding in the sense of throws.

Sur la figure 4, les fils de trame courte 7 se dévident sur deux colonnes 5 de mailles.In FIG. 4, the short weft yarns 7 unwind on two columns 5 of sts.

Il est également envisageable de disposer des fils de trame courte se dévidant sur trois, quatre ou plus colonnes de mailles. It is also possible to have short weft yarns unwinding on three, four or more columns of mesh.

La trame courte 7 est réalisée à partir de fils mono- ou multifilaments, plats ou texturés, naturels, synthétiques ou artificiels, tels que ceux décrits précédemment.The short weft 7 is made from mono- or multifilament, flat or textured, natural, synthetic or artificial, such as those described previously.

Sur le mode d'exécution représenté sur la figure 5, le support textile 1 de l'invention comprend deux tricots à mailles jetées, chacun présentant des jetés sur au moins deux colonnes de mailles.In the embodiment shown in FIG. 5, the textile support 1 of the invention comprises two knitted yarn knits, each with yarns on at least two columns of mesh.

Un premier tricot 8 à mailles jetées est réalisé, présentant des jetés 9 sur trois colonnes 5 de mailles, chaque rangée 6 de mailles.A first knitted 8 with knitted stitches is produced, presenting throws 9 out of three 5 columns of stitches, each row 6 of stitches.

A ce premier tricot 8 est superposé un second tricot 10 à mailles jetées, présentant des jetés 11 sur deux colonnes 5 de mailles, chaque rangée 6 de mailles.On this first knit 8 is superimposed a second knit 10 with knitted stitches, with throws 11 on two columns 5 of mesh, each row 6 of sts.

Selon un mode d'exécution, le support textile de l'invention comprend une matière adhésive thermocollante. La matière thermocollante constitue une couche d'adhésif et est choisie parmi l'une quelconque de celles couramment utilisées pour assurer le contrecollage des tissus de renfort sur les textiles devant les recevoir.According to one embodiment, the textile support of the invention comprises a iron-on adhesive material. The fusible material constitutes a adhesive layer and is selected from any of those commonly used to laminate reinforcing fabrics to textiles before receiving them.

Elle est par exemple à base de polymères vinyliques, de polyoléfine, de polyamide, de polyéthylène haute et basse densité, de copolyester, de copolyamide, etc.It is for example based on vinyl polymers, polyolefin, polyamide, high and low density polyethylene, copolyester, copolyamide, etc.

Ces subtances peuvent être sous forme de poudre ou de pâte. Les méthodes habituelles d'enduction sont utilisables, par exemple les méthodes d'enduction par impression de type sérigraphie.These subtances can be in the form of powder or paste. The methods coating techniques can be used, for example coating methods by screen printing type.

La couche adhésive peut être déposée sur l'une au moins des faces du textile, sous forme de points, de doubles points ou de lignes.The adhesive layer can be deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile, as dots, double dots, or lines.

Selon le procédé de l'invention, on constitue tout d'abord une couche de textile non-tissé 2.According to the process of the invention, first of all a textile layer is formed. nonwoven 2.

De nombreuses méthodes de fabrication de nappes textiles non-tissées sont en elles-mêmes connues. L'une quelconque d'entre elles peut être utilisée pour réaliser la couche de textile non-tissé 2 du support textile de l'invention. Many methods of making nonwoven fabrics are themselves known. Any of them can be used for make the nonwoven textile layer 2 of the textile support of the invention.

La couche 2 peut présenter un liage ou pré-liage, ainsi qu'il a été décrit précédemment. Ce liage ou pré-liage peut être réalisé par les méthodes décrites plus haut, par exemple en réalisant une couche textile non-tissée faiblement aiguilletée ou pré-aiguilletée.Layer 2 can have a binding or pre-binding, as has been described previously. This binding or pre-binding can be carried out by the methods described above, for example by making a non-woven textile layer weakly needled or pre-needled.

On alimente avec cette couche de textile non-tissé 2 un métier de type "RACHEL" ou de type "MALI".This type of nonwoven fabric 2 is fed with a type of loom "RACHEL" or "MALI" type.

Le fonctionnement de ces types de métier est connu en lui-même. Généralement, on dépose entre la fonture et la plaque d'abattage la couche non-tissée 2. Une aiguille coopère de manière connue avec des barres à passettes pour réaliser le tricot.The operation of these types of profession is known in itself. Generally, the layer is deposited between the needle bed and the felling plate nonwoven 2. A needle cooperates in known manner with bars passettes for knitting.

Ainsi, la couche de textile non-tissé 2 est transpercée par les aiguilles du métier et se trouve donc maintenue par le tricot.Thus, the layer of nonwoven fabric 2 is pierced by the needles of the trade and is therefore maintained by knitting.

Postérieurement à cette association et selon une variante d'exécution, les fils du tricot subissent une rétraction qui entraíne une diminution des dimensions du support textile réalisé.After this association and according to an alternative embodiment, the sons of knitting undergo a retraction which causes a reduction in the dimensions of the textile support produced.

Ce traitement de rétraction a pour but de conférer une frisure et un volume, ainsi qu'une capacité élastique, au support textile.The purpose of this shrinkage treatment is to impart crimp and volume, as well as an elastic capacity, with textile support.

La rétraction diminue les dimensions de la couche de textile non-tissé, en lui donnant un volume supérieur à celui qu'elle avait initialement. Ce mode d'association d'une nappe non-tissée et d'un fil tricoté rétractable permet d'obtenir un support textile possédant une bonne nervosité à la fois dans le sens chaíne et dans le sens trame, tout en conservant une extensibilité déterminée par les conditions du traitement de rétraction.The shrinkage decreases the dimensions of the layer of nonwoven fabric, in it giving a volume greater than that which it had initially. This mode combination of a non-woven tablecloth and a retractable knitted yarn allows to obtain a textile support having good nervousness both in the warp and weft direction, while retaining extensibility determined by the conditions of the withdrawal treatment.

De préférence, le taux d'allongement des fils du tricot, après traitement de rétraction, varie de 4 à 20 %.Preferably, the rate of elongation of the knitted yarns, after treatment of retraction, varies from 4 to 20%.

La rétraction des fils du tricot diminuant la largeur et la longueur de la couche de textile non-tissé 2, elle augmente donc son épaisseur moyenne comprimée lors du tricotage et par là son volume, en obligeant les fibres à un effet de frisure sous l'action de la rétraction. The retraction of the knitting yarns decreases the width and length of the layer of nonwoven fabric 2, it therefore increases its average thickness compressed during knitting and thereby its volume, forcing the fibers to a crimping effect under the action of retraction.

La rétraction des fibres du tricot est produite, par exemple avec un procédé classique de rétraction par eau chaude, vapeur d'eau ou air chaud.The knitting fibers are shrunk, for example with a process classic shrinking by hot water, steam or hot air.

Toutefois, d'autres moyens peuvent être envisagés pour produire cette rétraction.However, other means can be envisaged to produce this retraction.

Le support textile est alors soumis aux opérations classiques de finissage, la rétraction pouvant se produire au cours de ces opérations de finissage.The textile support is then subjected to conventional finishing operations, the shrinkage that may occur during these finishing operations.

On réalise ensuite éventuellement le dépôt d'une couche d'enduction thermoadhésive sur le support textile. Cette enduction est de préférence une enduction par points, réalisée par exemple avec un cylindre de gravure du type sérigraphie.A coating layer is then optionally deposited thermoadhesive on the textile support. This coating is preferably a coating by points, carried out for example with an engraving cylinder of the type serigraphy.

Claims (29)

  1. A method of manufacturing a textile support (1) intended for reinforcing garments or pieces of garment, of the type in which
    a layer of non-woven textile (2) is made up, characterised in that
    the cohesion of the layer of non-woven textile is reinforced, on a loom of the "warp" type, with at least one warp knit fabric (3, 8, 10) having laps over at least two columns of stitches;
    the textile support (1) thus obtained is finished, during which the fabric (3, 8, 10) undergoes shrinking;
    and, possibly, a layer of thermoadhesive material is deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile support (1).
  2. A method of manufacturing a textile support according to Claim 1, characterised in that the laps (4, 9, 11) are made on each row (6) of stitches.
  3. A method of manufacturing a textile support according to Claim 1, characterised in that the laps (4, 9, 11) are made on one row (6) of stitches out of two, or more.
  4. A method of manufacturing a textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the laps (4, 9, 11) are made on two columns (5) of stitches.
  5. A method of manufacturing a textile support according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterised in that the laps (4, 9, 11) are made on three or four columns (5) of stitches, or more.
  6. A textile support (1) produced according to a manufacturing method of one of Claims 1 to 5 for reinforcing a garment or pieces of garment in the form of a layer of non-woven textile (2) characterised in that it is reinforced by one or more warp knit fabrics (3, 8, 10), the stitches of the fabric or fabrics having laps (4, 9, 11) on at least two columns (5) of stitches.
  7. A textile support according to Claim 6, characterised in that it also comprises short weft threads (7), paid out in the direction of the laps, without participating in the formation of the stitch.
  8. A textile support according to Claim 7, characterised in that the short weft (7) is produced using mono- or multifilament threads, flat or textured, natural, synthetic or artificial.
  9. A textile support according to any one of Claims 6 to 8, characterised in that it comprises a second warp knit fabric (10), the stitches of the second fabric (10) having laps (11) on at least two columns (5) of stitches.
  10. A textile support according to Claim 9, characterised in that the second fabric (10) is superimposed on the first fabric (8).
  11. A textile support according to Claim 9 or 10, characterised in that the second fabric (10) is produced from threads with a composition and/or numbering identical to or different from those of the first fabric (8).
  12. A textile support according to any one of Claims 9 to 11, characterised in that the second fabric (10) has laps identical to or different from those of the first fabric (8) .
  13. A textile support according to any one of Claims 6 to 12, characterised in that the fabric (3, 8, 10) is produced from textured synthetic or artificial threads.
  14. A textile support according to Claim 13, characterised in that the textured threads comprise multifilament threads.
  15. A textile support according to Claim 14, characterised in that the multifilament threads have a numbering per unit strand varying between 1 decitex and 35 decitex.
  16. A textile support according to Claim 14 or 15, characterised in that the multifilament threads comprise from 6 to 150 filaments.
  17. A textile support according to any one of Claims 13 to 16, characterised in that the threads comprise threads of polyamide, in particular polyamide 6 or 6.6, polyester, viscose or derivatives and/or mixtures of these products.
  18. A textile support according to any one of Claims 6 to 17, characterised in that the layer of non-woven textile (2) is produced from continuous, natural, synthetic or artificial fibres or filaments.
  19. A textile support according to Claim 18, characterised in that the layer of non-woven textile (2) is produced from wool, cellulose, viscose, polyamide, polyester or derivatives and/or mixtures of these.
  20. A textile support according to Claim 18 or 19, characterised in that the fibres or filaments used for producing the layer of non-woven textile (2) have a numbering greater than 1 decitex.
  21. A textile support according to Claim 18 or 19, characterised in that the layer of non-woven textile (2) is produced from microfibres or microfilaments with a numbering less than 1 decitex.
  22. A textile support according to any one of Claims 18 to 21, characterised in that the layer of non-woven textile (2) has a weight varying from 15 to 100 g/m2.
  23. A textile support according to any one of Claims 19 to 22, characterised in that the density of stitches in the fabric (3, 8, 10) is between 2 stitches per cm and 20 stitches per cm.
  24. A textile support according to any one of Claims 6 to 23, characterised in that the threads of the fabric (3, 8, 10) have a degree of elongation, after shrinking, varying between 4 and 20%.
  25. A textile support according to any one of Claims 6 to 24, characterised in that it comprises a thermal-bonding adhesive material.
  26. A textile support according to Claim 25, characterised in that the adhesive material is based on polyvinyl polymers or based on polyamide, polyolefin, high and low density polyethylene, copolyester or copolyamide.
  27. A textile support according to Claim 25 or 26, characterised in that the adhesive material is deposited on at least one of the faces of the textile support (1) in the form of dots, double dots or lines.
  28. Application of a textile support according to any one of Claims 6 to 27 for the interlining of garments or pieces of garment, such as jackets, shirt fronts, trousers, ties, shirts or the like.
  29. A garment or piece of garment, characterised in that it comprises at least one textile support (1) according to any one of Claims 6 to 27.
EP99400381A 1998-02-20 1999-02-17 Manufacturing process of reinforcing textile for stiffening garment fabrics, reinforcing textile, and applications Expired - Lifetime EP0937801B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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FR9802080 1998-02-20
FR9802080A FR2775300B1 (en) 1998-02-20 1998-02-20 TEXTILE SUPPORT FOR THE REINFORCEMENT OF A GARMENT OR PARTS OF GARMENT, METHOD OF MANUFACTURING SUCH A TEXTILE SUPPORT, ITS APPLICATIONS

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EP0937801B1 true EP0937801B1 (en) 2003-12-17

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EP (1) EP0937801B1 (en)
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CN (1) CN1291244A (en)
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CA (1) CA2262270A1 (en)
DE (1) DE69913586T2 (en)
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PL (1) PL189693B1 (en)
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CA2262270A1 (en) 1999-08-20
BR9907996A (en) 2000-10-24
ES2212482T3 (en) 2004-07-16
AU2524999A (en) 1999-09-06
PL189693B1 (en) 2005-09-30
FR2775300A1 (en) 1999-08-27
KR20010041106A (en) 2001-05-15
DE69913586T2 (en) 2004-09-30
DE69913586D1 (en) 2004-01-29
ATE256778T1 (en) 2004-01-15
CN1291244A (en) 2001-04-11
EP0937801A1 (en) 1999-08-25
TR200002401T2 (en) 2001-01-22
US6281150B1 (en) 2001-08-28
ZA991317B (en) 1999-08-19
FR2775300B1 (en) 2000-04-21
WO1999042645A1 (en) 1999-08-26

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