EP0318439B1

EP0318439B1 - Template for making patterns for cutting clothes and the like

Info

Publication number: EP0318439B1
Application number: EP88830490A
Authority: EP
Inventors: Alberto Cosenza
Original assignee: Individual
Current assignee: Individual
Priority date: 1987-11-24
Filing date: 1988-11-17
Publication date: 1993-05-19
Anticipated expiration: 2008-11-17
Also published as: IT8722747A0; IT1223453B; DE3881168D1; EP0318439A1

Description

The present invention relates to a template for quickly and easily making patterns for cutting clothes in general.
As is known,great problems are encountered in making patterns or "tracks" for man and woman clothes.
According to prior methods, these cutting patterns, depending on the user's size, are made based on the breast circumference in order to make the several cloth parts.
This method,however, can not be fitted to all of the user's sizes :infact the breast circumference frequently changes from person to person and the breast circumference based method will be effective for those persons having a regular breast circumference;for example, a person having a small thorax circumference has a shoulder and arm correspondingly small, whereas in a person having a great breast circumference the shoulder and arm size can not be precisely deduced from that circumference and, if this size would be deduced from the breast size, then the cloth would have excessively great shoulders and arms with respect to the actual size of the person.
The GB-A-2 151 126 document discloses a template for making the cutting patterns of clothes having substantially the features of the pre-characterizing portion of the main claim.
Thus, the task of the present invention is to provide a solution of the above mentioned problem, by designing a new cloth template which affords the possibility of calculating with a great accuracy the size of the sevaral cloth parts starting from the thorax circumference.
Within the scope of the above mentioned task, a main object of the present invention is to provide such a cloth cutting template affording the possibility of automatically deriving the depth of the so-called "pinces" or folds to be made at the breast level, after having set the difference between the breast and thorax, since,as is further known, these pinces are exclusively used for forming the breast cups, depending on the breast volume, and do not affect the cutting patterns of the other parts of the cloth.
Infact,according to the present invention, the depth of the pinces is not calculated as a portion of the user circumference,as is made in the conventional methods,which methods for example,in the case of a person with a great size but a small breast circumference, or of a person with a small size but a great breast circumference,would provide completely erroneous calculation data.
On the contrary,by using the cloth template according to the present invention, the difference between the thorax circumference and the breast circumference is exclusively used for setting the pince depth and the width of the front piece or portion of a woman cloth,whereas do not depend on the mentioned difference the measurements of the cloth rear piece and of all of the other cloth portions,such as the sleeve and neck width and the like.
According to one aspect of the present invention, the above mentioned task and objects,as well as yet other objects,which will become more apparent hereinafter,are achieved by a template for making cutting patterns for cloth and the like, having the features of the characterizing portion of the main claim.
Further characteristics and advantages of the present invention will become more apparent hereinafter from the following detailed description of a preferred,though not exclusive embodiment,of a cloth cutting template according to the present invention,which is illustrated,by way of an indicative but not limitative example,in the figures of the accompanying drawings,where:

figure 1 is a schematic front view of the cloth template according to the invention,taken from its front face having the word "front",and arranged to perform the first cloth cutting steps,in order to make the cloth front portion;
figure 2 shows the template arranged as an extension of the cloth front portion;
figure 3 and figure 4 show two subsequent operating steps for making the front portion of the cloth;
figure 5 shows the end operating step for making the cloth front portion;
figure 6 shows the template as seen from its rear face with the word " rear" arranged for making the rear portion of the cloth;
figures 7 and 8 show the subject template arranged for making the rear portion of the cloth;
figure 9 show a pattern or "track" for making a cloth front portion or piece,without "pinces" or folds,with breast difference;
and
figure 10 shows the subject template with associated scales for making the front sleeve recesses,without pinces with breast difference.

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT

With reference to the figures of the accompanying drawings,the cloth template adapted to quickly and easily make cutting patterns for cutting clothes in general,consists of a rectangular plate like element,indicated overally at the reference number 1, which is advantageously made of a rigid plastics material.
The plate like element 1 has a front face having the word "FRONT",indicated overally at the reference number 1a,on which there are formed a plurality of suitably arranged notches,of elongated shape.
More specifically,there are provided notches 2,3 and 4 which have a curved shape and are provided for making the front side of the cloth sleeve,depending on the possible user size,and a notch or cut 5 which,on one of the curved sides,is provided with notches for making the user thorax profile.
The notch or cut out 6,on one of its side is provided with cuts off for making the under-sleeve piece,indicated at 6a,as well as with a portion 6b for making the neck piece.
The other side of the notch 6 affords the possibility of patterning the oversleeve portion,at one end for the rear side and,at the other end,for the front side.
Over the region therein there is formed the thorax notch 5,there is provided a further notch 7,for making the side curved portions,and thereabove there is provided a further V-shaped notch 8,provided with cuts out 8a for making the cloth shoulder portion,and with cuts out 8a for making the cloth sleeve.
Above the notch 8 there is provided a further notch 9,for making the breast difference, which is provided with cuts out 9a,thereat there is indicated the breast difference,and with cuts out 9b,thereat there are indicated the several cloth sizes.
At a corner of the template, there are provided,on two adjoining sides, the notches 10 for making the cloth neck whereas,at an intermediate portion of a side, there are provided notches 11 indicating the several sizes for making the sleeve.
On the opposite side there are provided further notches 12,related to the waist-pelvis circumference,and on the adjoining side there are provided notches 13 related to the sleeve sizes.
On the template reverse side,indicated at 1b,and related to the cloth rear,on one of the sides of the cut 5 there are provided the notches 5a,related to the thorax,whereas,on the notches 2,3 and 4 there are provided signs for making the rear sleeve turn.
Moreover,at the cut or notch 3,at its intermediate portion 3a,there are provided signs relating to trousers front recesses.
At the left edge there are provided further notches 20,related to the size of the trousers,whereas, on the top edge,there are formed notches 21,related to the several scrotch sizes,notches 22 related to the fold,as well as notches 23 for the neck turn.
Moreover,one of the sides of the cut 8 is provided with notches 8b related to the cloth shoulder.
For making the cloth,as is shown in figure 1,the cloth front piece or portion is made by applying the plate like element 1 on a paper piece,so as to expose the template front portion 1a,marked by "FRONT".
At the left top corner of the cloth template there is drawn a right angle and,by means of the notches 10,related to the neck turn,and the notches 9b,related to the pince of the breast difference,the several sizes are marked.
On the scale related to the breast difference 9a,there is marked the number which corresponds to the breast difference,by extending the marking line up to the end of the scale.
Then,as shown in figure 2,the plate like element is abutted against the paper piece so as to cause the arrow of the scale 9b,related to the breast difference,to correspond with the start of the previously made line,related to the breast difference,up to the end portion of said scale.
On the breast difference scale,on the shoulder scale 8a and on the thorax scale there is marked the corresponding size.
As shown in figure 3,in order to define the pattern of the sleeve turn,the template is abutted with the notch 2,3 or 4 arranged thereat the sleeve turn is marked,so as to arrange the numbers corresponding to the size at the two ends,that is at the shoulder and side.
Then,as shown in figure 5,the two neck turn marks are joined,by arranging the template notch where there is written "neck turn ,"so as to provide a round neck turn and then,the pattern is marked as shown in the figure.
The subsequent step further provides for the use of the plate like element in order to complete the pattern of the front piece of the cloth.
Like steps are carried out for patterning the rear portion or piece of the cloth,as is shown in fig.6;in fact,the plate like element is abutted against the paper piece with the face 1b exposed;then a right angle is drawn,by using the top right corner of the template,and there are marked the scale 23,related to the neck turn,the scale 5a,related to the thorax,and the scale 8a related to the shoulder,by marking the respective sizes,which corresponds to the semicircumference of the thorax.
In order to form the sleeve turn,as shown in figure 7,the template is abutted with the notch thereat there is indicated the sleeve turn,so that the numbers corresponding to the sizes are arranged at the two ends, that is at the shoulder and at the side.
Then,as is shown in figure 8,the two signs or marks of the neck turn are joined,by locating the template notch thereat there is written "neck turn".
As shown in figures 9 and 10,it is possible to make the pattern of a front portion without pinces with breast difference,by using to that end of the notches 30 provided on the front portion of the plate like element,at the end portions of the notches 2,3 and 4.
From the above disclosure,it should be apparent that the invention fully achieves the intended task and objects.
In particular the fact is to be pointed out that the above disclosed cloth template affords the possibility of simplifying and automatizing all of the operations related to the patterning of a cloth,by providing a cloth pattern of high accuracy which can be fitted to all of the user sizes.
While the invention has been disclosed and illustrated with reference to a preferred embodiment thereof,it should be apparent that the disclosed embodiment is susceptible to several modifications and variations,all of which will come within the scope and spirit of the appended claims.

Claims

Template for making the cutting patterns of clothes and the like, comprising a rectangular rigid plate-like element (1) provided with a plurality of shaped notches (2, 3, 4) for making the cloth sleeve turn depending on a wearer s size, characterized in that said notches are designed, arranged and sized based on the cloth wearer breast difference, defined as the difference of the semicircumference at the breast level and the semi circumference at the thorax level of said cloth wearer, said sleeve turn notches including three curved adjoining notches (2, 3, 4) for tracing the front side of said sleeve turn.
A template according to Claim 1, characterized in that it is provided with a curved-side center cut out (25) formed, on one of the curved sides thereof, with notches related to the user's thorax size.
A template according to Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises, on its front face, a curved-side cut out (6) having, on one of the curved sides thereof, a portion (6b) related to the patterning of the neck turn and a portion (6a) related to the undersleeve piece, with corresponding sizes, the other curved side of said cut-out being related to the oversleeve piece.
A template according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a V-shaped cut (8) having first notches (8a) for making the cloth shoulder and second notches (8b) for making the cloth sleeve.
A template according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a cut (9) having third notches (9a) related to the breast difference and fourth notches (9b) related to the wearer's sizes.
A template according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises on its front face, at its perimetrical edges, notches (10) related to the neck turn, notches related to the sleeve, notches (11) related to the waist semicircumference and notches (12) related to the pelvis.
A template according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, at the ends of the cuts related to the front sleeve turn, notches related to the breast difference, and notches related to the wearers size for making cloth front pieces without pinces.
A template according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, on its rear face, notches (5a) arranged on one of the sides of the cut (5) related to the torax, as well as, on other cuts (2, 3, 4), notches related to the rear sleeve turn.
A template according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that a portion of a cut (3) related to the rear turn sleeve is adapted to define the front recess of trousers.
A template according to one or more of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, on its perimetrical edges, notches (21, 22, 23) related to trousers size, scrotch size, fold size , neck turn size and waist and pelvis semicircumference.