EP0128844A2 - Method of manufacturing a jacket - Google Patents

Method of manufacturing a jacket Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0128844A2
EP0128844A2 EP84420099A EP84420099A EP0128844A2 EP 0128844 A2 EP0128844 A2 EP 0128844A2 EP 84420099 A EP84420099 A EP 84420099A EP 84420099 A EP84420099 A EP 84420099A EP 0128844 A2 EP0128844 A2 EP 0128844A2
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EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
jacket
making
forming
seams
facings
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EP84420099A
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German (de)
French (fr)
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EP0128844A3 (en
Inventor
Théophile Zilli
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Individual
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Individual
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Publication date
Application filed by Individual filed Critical Individual
Publication of EP0128844A2 publication Critical patent/EP0128844A2/en
Publication of EP0128844A3 publication Critical patent/EP0128844A3/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/02—Jackets

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a method of making a jacket allowing to save on the footage required for cutting and on the number of cutting and mounting operations.
  • a jacket mainly comprises four pairs (right and left) of pieces of fabric to constitute the body (back, sides, fronts, facings), two pairs of pieces of fabric to constitute the sleeves, and a collar.
  • a seam is made in the middle of the back, a seam on each side, a chest clip on each front and a seam to assemble the facing.
  • the sleeves are made up of two pieces joined by two seams: the groove seam and the elbow seam.
  • the collar consists of an assembly of canvas, felt and fabric.
  • Cutting a plaid jacket, or having horizontal patterns involves additional operations. Since the patterns have to be matched between the different pieces, the following operations are carried out: adjustment of the facing, pockets and sleeves.
  • the jackets are cut into mattresses and the adjustments are made in a unitary fashion, hence an operation of labeling the elements of the same jacket and sorting operations to distribute the pieces on the different specialized stations.
  • French Patent No. 1,405,234 describes a cutting process in which the body, with the exception of the facings, is produced in a single piece without seams; however, a jacket with such a cut without darts does not have a traditional line and is not aesthetic.
  • US Patent 1,646,274 describes a method of producing a jacket from a piece forming the central part of the body in which clips are provided. However, on this piece must be fixed the facings forming the lapels and fronts of the garment.
  • the present invention aims to remedy these drawbacks.
  • the manufacturing process it relates to in which the body of the jacket is made from a single piece of fabric or skin, comprising cut or uncut pliers, consists of providing, on the lateral edges of the part, two parts forming the facings, folding these parts against the main part and securing them to the latter by seams in a sheath for the formation of the cuffs and fronts.
  • This technique allows you to make a jacket by assembling a minimum of pieces of fabric and therefore with a minimum of seams.
  • this process eliminates the additional operations on unlined or half-lined jackets, while benefiting from a good finish. inside the garment.
  • Figure 1 of the drawing shows a piece of fabric (6) flat, intended to form the body of a double-breasted jacket. At the level of its two side edges, this piece of fabric has two parts (5). It should be noted that the edge of the part (6) corresponding to the lower edge of the garment is rectilinear, as are the outer edges of the two parts (5) forming facings, which are perpendicular to the aforementioned lower edge.
  • the piece of fabric (6) includes cutouts corresponding to the neckline, armholes, as well as cutouts (4) corresponding to the upper part of the neck.
  • the part (6) has pliers which can be uncut, such as pliers (1) or cut like pliers (2).
  • the pliers (1) and (2) are sewn, and the parts (5) being fabricated in the conventional manner, are folded along the line (3) and sewn in a sheath to obtain the lapel, front and preform the hem of the bottom of the jacket.
  • a seam is made in the area of the piece corresponding to the middle of the back.
  • the clips (1) are removed and seams are provided in their place. It is also possible to remove the pliers (1) and equip the body of the jacket with an apparent martingale, or an internal elastic allowing the extent of the fabric to be absorbed.
  • the jacket is made of a fabric with squares or horizontal patterns
  • the bottom of the pattern which forms a straight line, is arranged according to a reference of the horizontal pattern.
  • the part (10), intended for producing the body of a straight type jacket, differs from that (6) described above only in terms of the shape of the side parts forming facings, in which transverse clips are provided ( 7).
  • the part (10) can be associated with parts (8) intended to form patch pockets, one of the edges of which is caught in a seam of the clamp (2).
  • the latter technique can, of course, just as easily be applied to the part (6) intended to form a crossed jacket.
  • FIG. 3 represents a part (12) from which a sleeve is made. After having been folded back on itself, this sleeve is closed by two seams connecting, on the one hand, the two very long edges and, on the other hand, the two edges delimiting a V-shaped slot.
  • the collar is produced in a single piece (15) which, after interlining, is folded along the line (13) and closed by a sheath seam at the two end edges (14).
  • the collar is assembled after the shoulders have been assembled, by a seam at the neck, back and front.
  • the invention brings a great improvement to the existing technique by providing a method of manufacturing an economical jacket, simple to implement and providing excellent results since avoiding errors as much as possible. operator appreciation.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Prostheses (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)

Abstract

Method of manufacturing a jacket of the single-breasted or double- breasted type, in which the body of the jacket is made from a single piece (6) of fabric or of skin, comprising cut-out darts (2) or non- cut-out darts (1). This method consists in arranging, on the lateral edges of the piece, two portions (5) forming the facings, in folding these portions over against the main piece, and in joining them to the latter by means of flat fell seams, with a view to forming the lapels and the fronts. <IMAGE>

Description

La présente invention concerne un procédé de confection d'un veston parmettant de faire des économies sur le métrage nécessaire à la coupe et sur le nombre d'opérations de coupe et de montage.The present invention relates to a method of making a jacket allowing to save on the footage required for cutting and on the number of cutting and mounting operations.

Généralement, un veston comporte principalement quatre paires (droite et gauche) de pièces de tissu pour constituer le corps (dos, côtés, devants, parmentures), deux paires de pièces de tissu pour constituer les manches, .et un col. Pour assembler les différentes pièces du corps, on fait une couture au milieu du dos, une couture sur chaque côté, une pince de poitrine sur chaque devant et une couture d'assemblage de la parmenture. Les manches sont constituées par l'assemblage de deux morceaux par deux coutures : la couture de saignée et la couture du coude. Le col est constitué par un assemblage de toile, feutre et tissu .Generally, a jacket mainly comprises four pairs (right and left) of pieces of fabric to constitute the body (back, sides, fronts, facings), two pairs of pieces of fabric to constitute the sleeves, and a collar. To assemble the different parts of the body, a seam is made in the middle of the back, a seam on each side, a chest clip on each front and a seam to assemble the facing. The sleeves are made up of two pieces joined by two seams: the groove seam and the elbow seam. The collar consists of an assembly of canvas, felt and fabric.

La coupe d'un veston à carreaux, ou ayant des motifs horizontaux, comporte des opérations supplémentaires. Les motifs devant être accordés entre les différentes pièces, on procède aux opérations suivantes : réglage des parmentures, des poches et des manches. Les vestons sont coupés en matelas et les règlages sont effectués de façon unitaire, d'où une opération d'étiquetage des éléments d'un même veston et des opérations de tri pour répartir les pièces sur les différents postes spécialisés.Cutting a plaid jacket, or having horizontal patterns, involves additional operations. Since the patterns have to be matched between the different pieces, the following operations are carried out: adjustment of the facing, pockets and sleeves. The jackets are cut into mattresses and the adjustments are made in a unitary fashion, hence an operation of labeling the elements of the same jacket and sorting operations to distribute the pieces on the different specialized stations.

Les vestons non doublés ou doublés mi-corps ont des coutures visibles et, de ce fait, demandent des opérations supplémentaires pour l'esthétique.Unlined or mid-lined jackets have visible seams and, therefore, require additional operations for aesthetics.

Le brevet français n° 1 405 234 décrit un procédé de coupe dans lequel le corps, à l'exception des parmentures, est réalisé en une seule pièce sans coutures ; cependant, un veston ayant une telle coupe sans pinces n'a pas une ligne traditionnelle et n'est pas esthétique.French Patent No. 1,405,234 describes a cutting process in which the body, with the exception of the facings, is produced in a single piece without seams; however, a jacket with such a cut without darts does not have a traditional line and is not aesthetic.

Le brevet US 1 646 274 décrit un procédé de réalisation d'un veston à partir d'une pièce formant la partie centrale du corps dans laquelle sont ménagées des pinces. Toutefois, sur cette pièce doivent être fixées les parmentures formant les revers et les devants du vêtement.US Patent 1,646,274 describes a method of producing a jacket from a piece forming the central part of the body in which clips are provided. However, on this piece must be fixed the facings forming the lapels and fronts of the garment.

La présente invention vise à remédier à ces inconvénients.The present invention aims to remedy these drawbacks.

A cet effet, le procédé de confection qu'elle concerne dans lequel le corps du veston est réalisé à partir d'une pièce unique de tissu ou de peau, comportant des pinces coupées ou non coupées, consiste à ménager, sur les bords latéraux de la pièce, deux parties formant les parmentures, à replier ces parties contre la pièce principale et à les solidariser à celle-ci par des coutures en fourreau en vue de la formation des revers et des devants.To this end, the manufacturing process it relates to in which the body of the jacket is made from a single piece of fabric or skin, comprising cut or uncut pliers, consists of providing, on the lateral edges of the part, two parts forming the facings, folding these parts against the main part and securing them to the latter by seams in a sheath for the formation of the cuffs and fronts.

Cette technique permet de réaliser un veston par assemblage d'un minimum de morceaux de tissu et donc avec un minimum de coutures.This technique allows you to make a jacket by assembling a minimum of pieces of fabric and therefore with a minimum of seams.

Il en résulte donc une économie de main-d'oeuvre, et une économie de tissu importante, notamment dans le cas de vestons à carreaux ou à motifs horizontaux, dans lesquels le procédé supprime les nombreux réglages nécessaires pour accorder les carreaux ou les motifs horizontaux ainsi que les opérations de tri qui en découlent.This therefore results in a saving of manpower, and a significant saving of fabric, in particular in the case of jackets with squares or with horizontal patterns, in which the process eliminates the numerous adjustments necessary for tuning the tiles or the horizontal patterns. as well as the resulting sorting operations.

En outre, compte tenu du nombre très limité des coutures mises en oeuvre pour la réalisation du veston, ce procédé permet de supprimer les opérations supplémentaires sur les vestons non doublés ou doublés à mi-corps, tout en bénéficiant d'une bonne finition de l'intérieur du vêtement.In addition, given the very limited number of seams used to make the jacket, this process eliminates the additional operations on unlined or half-lined jackets, while benefiting from a good finish. inside the garment.

En ce qui concerne la présentation extérieure du vêtement, elle est excellente même lorsque celui-ci est réalisé en un tissu très léger, compte tenu de la technique selon laquelle sont réalisées les parmentures.Regarding the external presentation of the garment, it is excellent even when it is made of a very light fabric, taking into account the technique according to which the facings are made.

De toute façon, l'invention sera bien comprise à l'aide de la description qui suit, en référence au dessin schématique annexé représentant, à titre d'exemples non limitatifs, deux formes d'exécution de ce veston : .

  • Figure 1 est une vue à plat de la pièce destinée à former le corps d'un veston croisé;
  • Figure 2 est une vue à plat de la pièce destinée à former le corps d'un veston de type droit ;
  • Figure 3 est une vue à plat d'une pièce destinée à former une manche d'un veston adaptable sur les corps de figures 1 ou 2 ;
  • Figure 4 est une vue à plat de la pièce destinée à former le col d'un veston adaptable sur le corps représenté aux figures 1 ou 2.
In any case, the invention will be clearly understood with the aid of the description which follows, with reference to the appended schematic drawing representing, by way of nonlimiting examples, two embodiments of this jacket:.
  • Figure 1 is a flat view of the part intended to form the body of a crossed jacket;
  • Figure 2 is a flat view of the part intended to form the body of a straight type jacket;
  • Figure 3 is a flat view of a part intended to form a sleeve of a jacket adaptable to the bodies of Figures 1 or 2;
  • Figure 4 is a flat view of the part intended to form the neck of a jacket adaptable to the body shown in Figures 1 or 2.

La figure 1 du dessin représente une pièce de tissu (6) à plat, destinée à former le corps d'un veston croisé. Au niveau de ses deux bords latéraux, cette pièce de tissu comporte deux parties (5). Il est à noter que le bord de la pièce (6) correspondant au bord inférieur du vêtement est rectiligne, de même que les bords extérieurs des deux parties (5) formant parmentures, qui sont perpendiculaires au bord inférieur précité.Figure 1 of the drawing shows a piece of fabric (6) flat, intended to form the body of a double-breasted jacket. At the level of its two side edges, this piece of fabric has two parts (5). It should be noted that the edge of the part (6) corresponding to the lower edge of the garment is rectilinear, as are the outer edges of the two parts (5) forming facings, which are perpendicular to the aforementioned lower edge.

La pièce de tissu (6) comprend des découpes correspondant à l'encolure, aux emmanchures, ainsi que des découpes (4) correspondant à la partie supérieure du col. En outre, la pièce (6) présente des pinces qui peuvent être non coupées, comme les pinces (1) ou coupées comme les pinces (2). Pour former le corps, il est procédé à la couture des pinces (1) et (2), et les parties (5) étant entoilées de façon classique, sont repliées selon la ligne (3) et cousues en fourreau permettant d'obtenir les revers, les devants et de réaliser le préformage de l'ourlet du bas du veston.The piece of fabric (6) includes cutouts corresponding to the neckline, armholes, as well as cutouts (4) corresponding to the upper part of the neck. In addition, the part (6) has pliers which can be uncut, such as pliers (1) or cut like pliers (2). To form the body, the pliers (1) and (2) are sewn, and the parts (5) being fabricated in the conventional manner, are folded along the line (3) and sewn in a sheath to obtain the lapel, front and preform the hem of the bottom of the jacket.

Il est à noter que, pour réaliser un veston avec une fente au milieu du dos, il est procédé à une couture dans la zone de la pièce correspondant au milieu du dos. Pour réaliser un veston avec deux fentes latérales, les pinces (1) sont supprimées et des coutures sont ménagées à leur place. Il est également possible de supprimer les pinces (1) et d'équiper le corps du veston d'une martingale apparente, ou d'un élastique intérieur permettant d'absorber l'ampleur du tissu.It should be noted that, to make a jacket with a slit in the middle of the back, a seam is made in the area of the piece corresponding to the middle of the back. To make a jacket with two side slits, the clips (1) are removed and seams are provided in their place. It is also possible to remove the pliers (1) and equip the body of the jacket with an apparent martingale, or an internal elastic allowing the extent of the fabric to be absorbed.

Si le veston est réalisé dans un tissu à carreaux ou à motifs horizontaux, le bas du patron, qui forme une ligne droite, est disposé suivant une référence du motif horizontal.If the jacket is made of a fabric with squares or horizontal patterns, the bottom of the pattern, which forms a straight line, is arranged according to a reference of the horizontal pattern.

La pièce (10), destinée à la réalisation du corps d'un veston de type droit, ne diffère de celle (6) décrite précédemment qu'au niveau de la forme des parties latérales formant parmentures, dans lesquelles sont ménagées des pinces transversales (7).The part (10), intended for producing the body of a straight type jacket, differs from that (6) described above only in terms of the shape of the side parts forming facings, in which transverse clips are provided ( 7).

En outre, il est montré sur la figure 2 que la pièce (10) peut être associée à des pièces (8) destinées à former des poches plaquées dont un des bords est pris dans une couture de la pince (2). Cette dernière technique peut, bien entendu, tout aussi bien être appliquée à la pièce (6) destinée à former un veston croisé.In addition, it is shown in FIG. 2 that the part (10) can be associated with parts (8) intended to form patch pockets, one of the edges of which is caught in a seam of the clamp (2). The latter technique can, of course, just as easily be applied to the part (6) intended to form a crossed jacket.

Pour réaliser un veston non doublé, ou doublé à mi-corps, de type croisé ou droit, il est procédé comme précédemment, mais les pinces (1) et (2) ne sont pas coupées, mais seulement pointées, cousues et couchées. Le doublage partiel de la veste est alors effectué de façon classique.To make an unlined or half-lined jacket, of the crossed or straight type, it is carried out as above, but the pliers (1) and (2) are not cut, but only pointed, sewn and laid. The partial doubling of the jacket is then carried out in a classic way.

La figure 3 représente une pièce (12) à partir de laquelle est réalisée une manche. Après avoir été repliée sur elle-même, cette manche est fermée par deux coutures reliant, d'une part, les deux bords de grande longueur et, d'autre part, les deux bords délimitant une fente en V.FIG. 3 represents a part (12) from which a sleeve is made. After having been folded back on itself, this sleeve is closed by two seams connecting, on the one hand, the two very long edges and, on the other hand, the two edges delimiting a V-shaped slot.

Il est à noter que, dans le cas de la réalisation d'un veston, à motifs géométriques, il est possible de repérer ceux-ci à l'aide de lignes, respectivement (9) sur la pièce (10) de figure 2 et (11) sur la pièce (12) de figure 3, en coupant la pièce (12) après positionnement de la ligne (11) sur le même motif que la ligne (9).It should be noted that, in the case of the production of a jacket, with geometric patterns, it is possible to identify these by means of lines, respectively (9) on the part (10) of FIG. 2 and (11) on the part (12) of Figure 3, by cutting the part (12) after positioning the line (11) on the same pattern as the line (9).

Pour sa part, le col est réalisé en une seule pièce (15) qui, après entoilage, est pliée suivant la ligne (13) et fermée par une couture en fourreau au niveau des deux bords d'extrémités (14). Le montage du col est effectué après l'assemblage des épaules, par une couture au niveau de l'encolure, dos et devant.For its part, the collar is produced in a single piece (15) which, after interlining, is folded along the line (13) and closed by a sheath seam at the two end edges (14). The collar is assembled after the shoulders have been assembled, by a seam at the neck, back and front.

Comme il ressort de ce qui précède, l'invention apporte une grande amélioration à la technique existante en fournissant un procédé de fabrication d'un veston économique, simple de mise en oeuvre et fournissant d'excellents résultats puisqu'évitant au maximum les erreurs d'appréciation de l'opérateur.As is apparent from the above, the invention brings a great improvement to the existing technique by providing a method of manufacturing an economical jacket, simple to implement and providing excellent results since avoiding errors as much as possible. operator appreciation.

Claims (7)

1. - Procédé de confection d'un veston de type droit ou croisé, dans lequel le corps du veston est réalisé à partir d'une pièce unique (6, 10) de tissu ou de peau comportant des pinces coupées (2) ou non coupées (1), caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à ménager, sur les bords latéraux de la pièce, deux parties (5) formant les parmentures, à replier ces parties contre la pièce principale, et à les solidariser à celle-ci par des coutures en foureau, en vue de la formation des revers et des devants.1. - Method for making a straight or crossed type jacket, in which the body of the jacket is made from a single piece (6, 10) of fabric or skin comprising cut pliers (2) or not cut (1), characterized in that it consists in providing, on the lateral edges of the part, two parts (5) forming the facings, folding these parts against the main part, and securing them thereto by seams in the fork, for the formation of the cuffs and the fronts. 2. - Procédé de confection d'un veston selon la revendication 1, caractérisé en ce que, dans le cas de la réalisation d'un veston de type droit, il consiste à ménager dans chaque partie formant parmenture, au moins une pince transversale (7).2. - A method of making a jacket according to claim 1, characterized in that, in the case of the production of a straight type jacket, it consists in providing in each part forming facing, at least one transverse clamp ( 7). 3. - Procédé de confection d'un veston selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et 2, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à découper le bord de la pièce unique (6, 10) formant le corps du veston selon une ligne droite, sur toute la largeur de la partie ne comportant pas les parties latérales formant les parmentures.3. - A method of making a jacket according to any one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that it consists in cutting the edge of the single piece (6, 10) forming the body of the jacket in a straight line , over the entire width of the part not including the lateral parts forming the facings. 4. - Procédé de confection d'un veston selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 et 3, caractérisé en ce que, dans le cas de la réalisation d'un veston de type croisé, il consiste à découper le bord extérieur de chaque partie latérale (5) selon une ligne droite perpendiculaire à la ligne droite formant le bord inférieur du corps du veston.4. - A method of making a jacket according to any one of claims 1 and 3, characterized in that, in the case of the production of a jacket of the crossed type, it consists in cutting the outer edge of each part lateral (5) along a straight line perpendicular to the straight line forming the lower edge of the body of the jacket. 5. - Procédé de confection d'un veston selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à réaliser une couture dans la partie centrale de la pièce principale correspondant au milieu du dos, afin de ménager une fente.5. - A method of making a jacket according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it consists in making a seam in the central part of the main piece corresponding to the middle of the back, in order to provide a slot. 6. - Procédé de confection d'un veston selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce qu'il consiste à réaliser deux coutures symétriques par rapport à l'axe longitudinal du dos, afin de ménager deux fentes latérales.6. - A method of making a jacket according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it consists in making two symmetrical seams with respect to the longitudinal axis of the back, in order to provide two lateral slits. 7. - Procédé de confection d'un veston selon l'une quelconque des revendications 1 à 6, caractérisé en ce que, dans le cas où le veston comporte des poches plaquées (8), il consiste à fixer un bord de chaque poche dans la couture d'une pince de côté (2).7. - A method of making a jacket according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that, in the case where the jacket has patch pockets (8), it consists in fixing an edge of each pocket in sewing side pliers (2).
EP84420099A 1983-06-09 1984-06-08 Method of manufacturing a jacket Withdrawn EP0128844A3 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8309776 1983-06-09
FR8309776A FR2547172B1 (en) 1983-06-09 1983-06-09 ECONOMICAL PROCESS FOR MAKING A JACKET

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
EP0128844A2 true EP0128844A2 (en) 1984-12-19
EP0128844A3 EP0128844A3 (en) 1987-10-28

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EP84420099A Withdrawn EP0128844A3 (en) 1983-06-09 1984-06-08 Method of manufacturing a jacket

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FR (1) FR2547172B1 (en)

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1646274A (en) * 1927-05-28 1927-10-18 David S Gross Coat
US1900678A (en) * 1931-09-11 1933-03-07 Wester Stefan One-piece coat
FR1187341A (en) * 1957-11-29 1959-09-09 Improvements to clothing such as pants and jackets or similar articles of clothing

Family Cites Families (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR1087180A (en) * 1953-11-16 1955-02-22 One-piece hunting jacket with pivot sleeve also one-piece
FR1366488A (en) * 1963-08-20 1964-07-10 Confezioni Caesar Sas Di Lambe Process for making a collar, in particular for jackets and overcoats, from a single piece of fabric folded over on itself and collar obtained by the process
US3396407A (en) * 1966-07-19 1968-08-13 Abramson Davis Coat collar construction
US4208742A (en) * 1978-10-02 1980-06-24 Maos Andreas M Coat construction with seamless shoulders

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US1646274A (en) * 1927-05-28 1927-10-18 David S Gross Coat
US1900678A (en) * 1931-09-11 1933-03-07 Wester Stefan One-piece coat
FR1187341A (en) * 1957-11-29 1959-09-09 Improvements to clothing such as pants and jackets or similar articles of clothing

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Publication number Publication date
EP0128844A3 (en) 1987-10-28
FR2547172B1 (en) 1988-08-26
FR2547172A1 (en) 1984-12-14

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