EP0087327A1 - Apparatus for automatically hemming the free ends of tubular parts of clothes - Google Patents

Apparatus for automatically hemming the free ends of tubular parts of clothes Download PDF

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Publication number
EP0087327A1
EP0087327A1 EP83400085A EP83400085A EP0087327A1 EP 0087327 A1 EP0087327 A1 EP 0087327A1 EP 83400085 A EP83400085 A EP 83400085A EP 83400085 A EP83400085 A EP 83400085A EP 0087327 A1 EP0087327 A1 EP 0087327A1
Authority
EP
European Patent Office
Prior art keywords
cylinder
guide
needle
fabric
roller
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Granted
Application number
EP83400085A
Other languages
German (de)
French (fr)
Other versions
EP0087327B1 (en
Inventor
Michel Letard
Daniel Renouvin
Joseph Dupont
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AMF Inc
Original Assignee
AMF Inc
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by AMF Inc filed Critical AMF Inc
Publication of EP0087327A1 publication Critical patent/EP0087327A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of EP0087327B1 publication Critical patent/EP0087327B1/en
Expired legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05B—SEWING
    • D05B33/00—Devices incorporated in sewing machines for supplying or removing the work
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2207/00—Use of special elements
    • D05D2207/02—Pneumatic or hydraulic devices
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2207/00—Use of special elements
    • D05D2207/02—Pneumatic or hydraulic devices
    • D05D2207/04—Suction or blowing devices
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2209/00—Use of special materials
    • D05D2209/04—Use of special materials with high friction
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D05—SEWING; EMBROIDERING; TUFTING
    • D05D—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBCLASSES D05B AND D05C, RELATING TO SEWING, EMBROIDERING AND TUFTING
    • D05D2305/00—Operations on the work before or after sewing
    • D05D2305/02—Folding
    • D05D2305/04—Folding longitudinally to the sewing direction

Definitions

  • the subject of the invention is a device which is mounted on conventional sewing machines so that the hem which terminates the free ends of the tubular parts of the garments, such as the sleeves and the legs, can be executed automatically. for example.
  • a hem at the end of a tubular part is executed essentially manually in the sense that the worker who is responsible for this operation folds the free end of the fabric twice, engages the fold. inner end of the hem in a guide placed on a sewing machine in front of the presser foot, then it sews by guiding the folded end by hand, making sure to keep it in correct alignment with the needle and taking care to hold the terminal fold in the guide.
  • the main purpose of the invention is to considerably reduce this manual process and to provide a device capable of automatically executing the interior fold of the hem as well as the sewing of the hem.
  • a machine of this kind comprises a presser foot associated with a needle, a plate on which this presser foot applies the sewing fabric, a catching feed which advances the fabric under the presser foot.
  • Such a conventional machine also comprises a guide which causes the fabric to fold back and keeps it folded just in front of the needle during the advancement of the fabric. According to the invention, this conventional guide is not used.
  • a device comprises a first free rolling cylinder rotating around a axis perpendicular to the general plane of the hem seam to be executed, this cylinder being associated with a stop of the folded fabric and preferably having a circular groove in the plane of the hem seam; a second free tensioning cylinder in rotation is parallel to the first cylinder and it is movable in position between a first erasing position and a second tensioning position; a folding guide is supported between the first cylinder and the presser foot, this guide being movable between an erasing position and an activity position in which it gives rise to the second fold of the hem, before the needle in the direction of sewing.
  • the fabric under the presser foot there is a means of driving the fabric under the presser foot outside of the normal operation of the sewing machine.
  • the usual driving roller which exists on the machine by interposing on the motor shaft of this roller an appropriate means such as a free wheel associated with an auxiliary motor making it possible to rotate it alone without the machine works.
  • an air blowing pipe is placed between the guide cylinder and the tension cylinder and there is a supply of pressurized air with a valve capable of communicating this reserve with the tubing for a moment, after sewing the hem.
  • a tubular part 1 of a garment ends in a hem 2 constituted by a first fold 3 or outside fold and a second fold 4 or inside fold; then a needle 5 of a sewing machine designed for this purpose performs a stitching which combines the three thicknesses of the fabric and constitutes what is called here the sewing of the hem.
  • the fold 3 is made by hand, the fold 4 is primed by hand and then it is introduced by hand into a guide while the fabric is driven under the needle 5. This fabric is guided hand during the execution of the entire bite.
  • Guidance consists in keeping the outer fold 3 correctly formed, at a constant distance from the needle 5, and in ensuring the proper entry of the fabric into the guide for correct formation of the inner fold 4.
  • a hemming sewing machine comprises, in addition to the needle 5, a presser foot 6 which is raised and lowered; when it is lowered, it applies the fabric to be sewn onto a plate 7 with which is associated a driving roller 8. Below the latter is located, under the plate 7, a crazy roller 9 antagonistic to the driving roller 8. It does not is not necessary to further describe these well-known classical organs.
  • the device of the invention is mounted on any hemming sewing machine; it comprises a first cylinder 10 or guide cylinder, mounted to rotate freely in a bearing 11 fixed to the machine in front of the needle 5 in the direction of the pricking.
  • This cylinder 10 extends cantilevered towards the outside of the machine at the level of the plate 7, with its geometric axis of rotation perpendicular to the general plane of the hem seam which contains the needle 5.
  • the device of the invention also comprises a second cylinder 12 or tension cylinder which is mounted to rotate freely at the end of an arm 13 below the plate 7.
  • This arm 13 can pivot around a fixed pivot 14 machine. To execute its movements, it is articulated at one end of a jack 15 which is itself articulated by its opposite end on the sewing machine.
  • the tension cylinder 12 can be placed at a first erasing position shown in dashed lines in FIG. 1 and at a second so-called tensioning position shown in solid lines in the same FIG. 1.
  • the device of the invention also comprises a folding guide 16 better visible in FIG. 4 provided under its lower face at one of its ends with a rod 17 thanks to which it is supported in a bearing-18 fixed to the machine.
  • a boss 19 spaced from the rod 17 thanks to which it can be coupled to the rod of a jack 20.
  • the latter makes the folding guide 16 pivot between a first erasing position (visible on Fig . 5) and a second activity position (visible on Fig. 6).
  • This folding guide 16 has, above the rod 17 and the boss 19 in a plane which is substantially perpendicular to them, a folding lateral groove 21 which is located on an appropriate side of a body 22 terminated by a slightly domed upper face 23.
  • the folding groove 21 begins substantially opposite the location of the rod 17 and extends away from the latter and widening further to the opposite end 24 of the body 22. At this end 24, the face upper 23 is extended by a fin 25 which extends outwards, passing transversely above the folding groove 21 which it helps to limit.
  • the guide cylinder 10 comprises at its end close to the machine a shoulder which constitutes a stop 26, then an end portion 27 of short length with non-slip surface.
  • a surface is obtained by any suitable known means, for example by rubber bracelets 28, circular, partially housed in suitable grooves.
  • This extreme part 27 is located at right of the driving roller 8 and the idler roller 9 so as to ensure the tension and the guiding of the fabric during its passage under the presser foot 6 for the execution of the seam.
  • the mounting of the cylinder 10 and of the bearing 11 takes place at the level determined by this condition and by the very diameter of this. cylinder 10.
  • the cylinder 10 After its end part 27, the cylinder 10 has a groove 29 and then it extends with a diameter equal to that of this part 27 to its opposite end.
  • the folding guide 16 and the second tension cylinder 12 being supposed to be put in their erasing positions, the presser foot 6 being raised, a sleeve or a leg to be hemmed is threaded onto the cylinder 10 by performing only the outer fold 3 and the folded edge 3 is applied against the stop 26 (see FIG. 3).
  • this stop 26 could be a fixed stop, independent of the cylinder 10. But it is much preferable for it to be integral with it and for it to rotate with it.
  • auxiliary roller 30 mounted freely rotatable at the end of a cylinder 31 mounted on the machine using suitable supports 32. This roller 30 is moved away from the cylinder 10 by the retraction of the cylinder 31 before the fabric is put in place and then it is applied against the latter in line with the non-slip end portion 27 of cylinder 10.
  • the roller 30 has been voluntarily drawn with a withdrawal to reveal the fabric 1 and the fold 3 which is also drawn slightly open.
  • the fold 3 is crushed and the two thicknesses of the fabric touch each other under the effect of the tension created by the tensioning cylinder 12. The latter is put in its tension position as soon as the fabric has been put in place with its fold 3, as we have just explained.
  • the fold 4 does not yet exist, the free terminal edge 1A of the fabric 1 is found in the region of the groove 29 of the cylinder lo
  • the folding gulde 16 is set back relative to this free edge lA. It is supported by the bearing 18 in an intermediate region formed between the cylinder 10 and the stitching area defined by the presser foot 6 and the needle 5.
  • the bearing 18 is slightly inclined or, as a variant, the upper face 23 of the folding guide 16 is shaped so that the fin 25 is applied against the fabric 1 placed in a tension state.
  • the folding guide 16 is then pivoted by approximately 90 °, by means of the jack 20, clockwise when looking at FIGS. 5, 6, to put it in its operating position in which the groove 21 extends parallel to the folded edge 3, in a plane transverse to the groove 29 of the cylinder 10 in line with the stitching area.
  • the fin 25 meets the free edge lA of the fabric 1 and pushes it towards the fold 3, initiating the formation of the inner fold 4.
  • the free edge lA which was perpendicular to the cylinder 10 is obliquely approaching the fold 3.
  • the existence of the groove 29 facilitates this oblique setting of the free edge lA.
  • the fabric 1 When the fold 4 has been started as seen in FIG. 6, the fabric 1 is rotated over a length of a few centimeters around the cylinders 10, 12 and the roller 9, without lowering the presser foot 6 and without actuating the needle 5.
  • Any drive means acting on the fabric can be adopted. It is especially advantageous to use the driving roller 8 already provided for this purpose on the sewing machine. In order not to rotate this roller 8 from the engine of the machine, which would actuate the needle 5, we interpose a freewheel (not visible in the figures) on the shaft of the roller 8 and the latter is rotated by means of an auxiliary motor (not shown).
  • This tubing 33 has one end 34 open towards the inside of the sleeve or of the leg in the process of making the hem. Its opposite end is connected by a pipe 35 to a source 36 of pressurized air, at 8 bars for example.
  • a normally closed valve 37 is mounted on the pipe 35.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Sewing Machines And Sewing (AREA)

Abstract

Dispositif pour l'exécution automatique des ourlets aux extrémités libres des partie tubulaires des vétements. Un cylindre de guidage (10) avant une butée (26) et un cylindre de tension (12) pouvant être escamote sont montés sur une machine à coudre avec un guide replieur (16) qui est mobile entre une position d'effacement et une position d'activité, ainsi qu'une tubulure (33) raccordée à une source d'air comprimé d'éjection.Device for the automatic execution of hems at the free ends of the tubular parts of clothing. A guide cylinder (10) before a stop (26) and a retractable tension cylinder (12) are mounted on a sewing machine with a folding guide (16) which is movable between an erasing position and a position activity, as well as a tube (33) connected to a source of compressed ejection air.

Description

L'invention a pour objet un dispositif qui se monte sur les machines a coudre classiques pour qu'on puisse exécuter sur celles-ci de façon automatique l'ourlet qui termine les extrémités libres des parties tubulaires des vêtements, comme les manches et les jambes par exemple.The subject of the invention is a device which is mounted on conventional sewing machines so that the hem which terminates the free ends of the tubular parts of the garments, such as the sleeves and the legs, can be executed automatically. for example.

Jusqu'à présent un ourlet à l'extrémité d'une partie tubulaire s'exécute essentiellement de façon manuelle en ce sens que l'ouvrière qui est chargée de cette opération plie deux fois l'extrémité libre de l'étoffe, engage le pli terminal intérieur de l'ourlet dans un guide placé sur une machine à coudre en avant du pied-presseur, puis elle exécute une couture en guidant à la main l'extrémité repliée, en veillant à la maintenir en alignement correct avec l'aiguille et en veillant aussi à bien tenir dans le guide le pli terminal.Up to now, a hem at the end of a tubular part is executed essentially manually in the sense that the worker who is responsible for this operation folds the free end of the fabric twice, engages the fold. inner end of the hem in a guide placed on a sewing machine in front of the presser foot, then it sews by guiding the folded end by hand, making sure to keep it in correct alignment with the needle and taking care to hold the terminal fold in the guide.

L'invention a pour but principal de réduire considérablement ce processus manuel et d'apporter un dispositif capable d'exécuter automatiquement le pli intérieur de l'ourlet ainsi que la couture de l'ourlet.The main purpose of the invention is to considerably reduce this manual process and to provide a device capable of automatically executing the interior fold of the hem as well as the sewing of the hem.

Le but et les avantages de l'invention apparaîtront mieux au cours de la description détaillée que l'on donnera plus loin d'un exemple de réalisation.The object and the advantages of the invention will appear better during the detailed description which will be given below of an exemplary embodiment.

On atteint le but de l'invention grâce à un dispositif qui se monte sur toute machine à coudre prévue pour faire la couture des ourlets à l'extrémité libre des manches et des jambes des vêtements. Une machine de ce genre comprend un pied-presseur associé à une aiguille, une platine sur laquelle ce pied-presseur applique l'étoffe à coudre, un aalet entraîneur qui fait avancer l'étoffe sous le pied presseur. Une telle machine classique comprend encore un guide qui provoque le repli de l'étoffe et la maintient repliée juste en avant de l'aiguille pendant l'avance de l'étoffe. Selon l'invention ce guide classique n'est pas utilisé.The object of the invention is achieved by a device which can be mounted on any sewing machine provided for sewing the hems at the free end of the sleeves and legs of the garments. A machine of this kind comprises a presser foot associated with a needle, a plate on which this presser foot applies the sewing fabric, a catching feed which advances the fabric under the presser foot. Such a conventional machine also comprises a guide which causes the fabric to fold back and keeps it folded just in front of the needle during the advancement of the fabric. According to the invention, this conventional guide is not used.

Un dispositif conforme à l'invention comprend un premier cylindre de cuidage libre en rotation autour d'un axe perpendiculaire au plan général de la couture d'ourlet à exécuter, ce cylindre étant associé à une butée de l'étoffe pliée et présentant de préférence une gorge circulaire dans le plan de la couture d'ourlet; un second cylindre de tension libre en rotation est parallèle au premier cylindre et il est mobile en position entre une première position d'effacement et une seconde position de tension; un guide replieur est supporté entre le premier cylindre et le pied--presseur, ce guide étant déplaçable entre une position d'effacement et une position d'activité dans laquelle il donne naissance au second pli de l'ourlet, avant l'aiguille dans le sens de la couture.A device according to the invention comprises a first free rolling cylinder rotating around a axis perpendicular to the general plane of the hem seam to be executed, this cylinder being associated with a stop of the folded fabric and preferably having a circular groove in the plane of the hem seam; a second free tensioning cylinder in rotation is parallel to the first cylinder and it is movable in position between a first erasing position and a second tensioning position; a folding guide is supported between the first cylinder and the presser foot, this guide being movable between an erasing position and an activity position in which it gives rise to the second fold of the hem, before the needle in the direction of sewing.

De préférence, dans l'esprit de l'invention, il existe un moyen d'entraînement de l'étoffe sous le pied--presseur en dehors du fonctionnement normal de la machine à coudre. Il est avantageux d'utiliser à cette fin le galet entraîneur habituel qui existe sur la machine en intercalant sur l'arbre moteur de ce galet un moyen approprié tel qu'une roue libre associée à un moteur auxiliaire permettant de le faire tourner seul sans que la machine fonctionne.Preferably, in the spirit of the invention, there is a means of driving the fabric under the presser foot outside of the normal operation of the sewing machine. It is advantageous to use for this purpose the usual driving roller which exists on the machine by interposing on the motor shaft of this roller an appropriate means such as a free wheel associated with an auxiliary motor making it possible to rotate it alone without the machine works.

Selon un mode de réalisation préféré de l'invention, une tubulure de soufflage d'air est placée entre le cylindre de guidage et le cylindre de tension et il existe une réserve d'air sous pression avec une vanne capable de faire communiquer cette réserve avec la tubulure pendant un instant, après la couture de l'ourlet.According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, an air blowing pipe is placed between the guide cylinder and the tension cylinder and there is a supply of pressurized air with a valve capable of communicating this reserve with the tubing for a moment, after sewing the hem.

En décrivant un exemple de réalisation de l'invention, on se reportera aux dessins annexés dans lesquels :

  • - la figure 1 est une vue frontale d'une machine à coudre représentée partiellement équipée d'un dispositif automatique d'ourlet conforme à l'invention ,
  • - la figure 2 est une vue de côté de la machine de la figure 1 et du dispositif de l'invention ,
  • - la figure 3 est une vue de côté agrandie du cylindre de guidage-qui fait partie du dispositif ,
  • - la figure 4 est une vue en perspective du guide replieur qui fait partie du dispositif de l'invention ,
  • - les figures 5 et 6 sont des vues de dessus du cylindre de guidage et du guide replieur servant à expliquer leur fonctionnement ,
  • - la figure 7 montre schématiquement un ourlet pour définir les termes utilisés.
By describing an exemplary embodiment of the invention, reference will be made to the appended drawings in which:
  • FIG. 1 is a front view of a sewing machine shown partially equipped with an automatic hem device according to the invention,
  • FIG. 2 is a side view of the machine of FIG. 1 and of the device of the invention,
  • FIG. 3 is an enlarged side view of the guide cylinder which is part of the device,
  • FIG. 4 is a perspective view of the folding guide which is part of the device of the invention,
  • FIGS. 5 and 6 are top views of the guide cylinder and of the folding guide used to explain their operation,
  • - Figure 7 schematically shows a hem to define the terms used.

Dans ce qui suit on admet qu'une partie tubulaire 1 d'un vêtement se termine par un ourlet 2 constitué par un premier pli 3 ou pli extérieur et un second pli 4 ou pli intérieur; ensuite une aiguille 5 d'une machine à coudre conçue à cet effet effectue une piqûre qui réunit les trois épaisseurs de l'étoffe et constitue ce que l'on appelle ici la couture de l'ourlet. Jusqu'à présent, le pli 3 est fait à la main, le pli 4 est amorcé à la main puis il est introduit à la main dans un guide pendant que l'étoffe est entraînée sous l'aiguille 5. Cette étoffe est guidée à la main pendant l'exécution de toute la piqûre. Le guidage consiste à maintenir le pli extérieur 3 correctement formé, à distance constante de l'aiguille 5, et à assurer l'entrée convenable de l'étoffe dans le guide pour une formation correcte du pli intérieur 4.In what follows, it is assumed that a tubular part 1 of a garment ends in a hem 2 constituted by a first fold 3 or outside fold and a second fold 4 or inside fold; then a needle 5 of a sewing machine designed for this purpose performs a stitching which combines the three thicknesses of the fabric and constitutes what is called here the sewing of the hem. Until now, the fold 3 is made by hand, the fold 4 is primed by hand and then it is introduced by hand into a guide while the fabric is driven under the needle 5. This fabric is guided hand during the execution of the entire bite. Guidance consists in keeping the outer fold 3 correctly formed, at a constant distance from the needle 5, and in ensuring the proper entry of the fabric into the guide for correct formation of the inner fold 4.

Selon l'invention seul le pli extérieur 3 est exécuté manuellement avant la marche de la machine. Toutes les autres opérations s'exécutent automatiquement.According to the invention, only the outer ply 3 is executed manually before the machine starts. All other operations are performed automatically.

Une machine à coudre à ourler comprend, en plus de l'aiguille 5, un pied-presseur 6 qui se lève et qui s'abaisse; quand il est abaissé il applique l'étoffe à coudre sur une platine 7 à laquelle est associé un galet entraîneur 8. En dessous de ce dernier se trouve, sous la platine 7, un galet fou 9 antagoniste au galet entraîneur 8. Il n'est pas nécessaire de décrire davantage ces organes classiques bien connus.A hemming sewing machine comprises, in addition to the needle 5, a presser foot 6 which is raised and lowered; when it is lowered, it applies the fabric to be sewn onto a plate 7 with which is associated a driving roller 8. Below the latter is located, under the plate 7, a crazy roller 9 antagonistic to the driving roller 8. It does not is not necessary to further describe these well-known classical organs.

Le dispositif de l'invention se monte sur toute machine à coudre à ourler; il comprend un premier cylindre 10 ou cylindre de guidage, monté libre en rotation dans un palier 11 fixé à la machine en avant de l'aiguille 5 dans le sens de la piqûre. Ce cylindre 10 s'étend en porte à faux vers l'extérieur de la machine au niveau de la platine 7, avec son axe géométrique de rotation perpendiculaire au plan général de la couture d'ourlet qui contient l'aiguille 5.The device of the invention is mounted on any hemming sewing machine; it comprises a first cylinder 10 or guide cylinder, mounted to rotate freely in a bearing 11 fixed to the machine in front of the needle 5 in the direction of the pricking. This cylinder 10 extends cantilevered towards the outside of the machine at the level of the plate 7, with its geometric axis of rotation perpendicular to the general plane of the hem seam which contains the needle 5.

Le dispositif de l'invention comprend encore un second cylindre 12 ou cylindre de tension qui est monté libre en rotation à l'extrémité d'un bras 13 en dessous de la platine 7. Ce bras 13 peut pivoter autour d'un pivot 14 fixé à la machine. Pour exécuter ses mouvements, il est articulé à une extrémité d'un vérin 15 qui est lui-même articulé par son extrémité opposée sur la machine à coudre. Le cylindre de tension 12 peut être placé à une première position d'effacement représentée en trait mixte sur la figure 1 et à une seconde position dite de tension représentée en trait plein sur la même figure 1.The device of the invention also comprises a second cylinder 12 or tension cylinder which is mounted to rotate freely at the end of an arm 13 below the plate 7. This arm 13 can pivot around a fixed pivot 14 machine. To execute its movements, it is articulated at one end of a jack 15 which is itself articulated by its opposite end on the sewing machine. The tension cylinder 12 can be placed at a first erasing position shown in dashed lines in FIG. 1 and at a second so-called tensioning position shown in solid lines in the same FIG. 1.

Le dispositif de l'invention comprend aussi un guide replieur 16 mieux visible sur la fig. 4 pourvu sous sa face inférieure à une de ses extrémités d'une tige 17 grâce à laquelle il est supporté dans un palier-18 fixé à la machine. En outre, il a sous la même face inférieure un bossage 19 espacé de la tige 17 grâce auquel il peut être accouplé à la tige d'un vérin 20. Ce dernier fait pivoter le guide replieur 16 entre une première position d'effacement (visible sur la fig. 5) et une seconde position d'activité (visible sur la fic. 6). Ce guide replieur 16 présente au-dessus dela tige 17 et du bossage 19 dans un plan qui leur est substantiellement perpendiculaire une gorge latérale plieuse 21 qui se trouve sur un côté approprié d'un corps 22 terminé par une face supérieure 23 légèrement bombée. La gorge plieuse 21 commence sensiblement en regard de l'emplacement de tige 17 et s'étend en s'éloignant de cette dernière et en se creusant davantage jusqu'à l'extrémité opposée 24 du corps 22. A cette extrémité 24, la face supérieure 23 se prolonge par un aileron 25 qui s'étend vers l'extérieur, en passant transversalement au--dessus de la gorge plieuse 21 qu'il contribue à limiter.The device of the invention also comprises a folding guide 16 better visible in FIG. 4 provided under its lower face at one of its ends with a rod 17 thanks to which it is supported in a bearing-18 fixed to the machine. In addition, it has under the same lower face a boss 19 spaced from the rod 17 thanks to which it can be coupled to the rod of a jack 20. The latter makes the folding guide 16 pivot between a first erasing position (visible on Fig . 5) and a second activity position (visible on Fig. 6). This folding guide 16 has, above the rod 17 and the boss 19 in a plane which is substantially perpendicular to them, a folding lateral groove 21 which is located on an appropriate side of a body 22 terminated by a slightly domed upper face 23. The folding groove 21 begins substantially opposite the location of the rod 17 and extends away from the latter and widening further to the opposite end 24 of the body 22. At this end 24, the face upper 23 is extended by a fin 25 which extends outwards, passing transversely above the folding groove 21 which it helps to limit.

Le cylindre de guidage 10 comprend à son extrémité proche de la machine un épaulement qui constitue une butée 26, puis une partie extrême 27 de faible longueur à surface antidérapante. Une telle surface s'obtient par tout moyen connu approprié, par exemple par des bracelets en caoutchouc 28, circulaires, logés partiellement dans des gorges convenables. Cette partie extrême 27 est située au droit du galet entraîneur 8 et du galet fou 9 de façon à assurer la tension et le guidage de l'étoffe pendant son passage sous le pied presseur 6 pour l'exécution de la couture. Le montage du cylindre 10 et du palier 11 se fait au niveau déterminé par cette condition et par le diamètre même de ce. cylindre 10.The guide cylinder 10 comprises at its end close to the machine a shoulder which constitutes a stop 26, then an end portion 27 of short length with non-slip surface. Such a surface is obtained by any suitable known means, for example by rubber bracelets 28, circular, partially housed in suitable grooves. This extreme part 27 is located at right of the driving roller 8 and the idler roller 9 so as to ensure the tension and the guiding of the fabric during its passage under the presser foot 6 for the execution of the seam. The mounting of the cylinder 10 and of the bearing 11 takes place at the level determined by this condition and by the very diameter of this. cylinder 10.

Après sa partie extrême 27, le cylindre 10 a une gorge 29 puis il se prolonge avec un diamètre égal à celui de cette partie 27 jusqu'à son extrémité opposée.After its end part 27, the cylinder 10 has a groove 29 and then it extends with a diameter equal to that of this part 27 to its opposite end.

Quand on utilise le dispositif de l'invention, le guide replieur 16 et le second cylindre de tension 12 étant supposés être mis à leurs positions d'effacement, le pied presseur 6 étant relevé, on enfile une manche ou une jambe à ourler sur le cylindre 10 en effectuant seulement le pli extérieur 3 et on applique le bord replié 3 contre la butée 26 (voir la figure 3). On notera que cette butée 26 pourrait être une butée fixe, indépendante du cylindre 10. Mais il est bien préférable qu'elle fasse corps avec lui et qu'elle tourne avec lui.When using the device of the invention, the folding guide 16 and the second tension cylinder 12 being supposed to be put in their erasing positions, the presser foot 6 being raised, a sleeve or a leg to be hemmed is threaded onto the cylinder 10 by performing only the outer fold 3 and the folded edge 3 is applied against the stop 26 (see FIG. 3). It will be noted that this stop 26 could be a fixed stop, independent of the cylinder 10. But it is much preferable for it to be integral with it and for it to rotate with it.

Pour un meilleur guidage de l'étoffe pendant la couture, il est souhaitable aussi, bien que ce ne soit pas nécessaire dans toutes les circonstances, d'associer au cylindre lo un galet auxiliaire 30 monté libre en rotation à l'extrémité d'un vérin 31 monté sur la machine à l'aide de supports convenables 32. Ce galet 30 est éloigné du cylindre 10 par la rétraction du vérin 31 avant la mise en place de l'étoffe puis il est appliqué contre celle-ci au droit de la partie extrême 27 antidérapante du cylindre 10.For better guidance of the fabric during sewing, it is also desirable, although this is not necessary in all circumstances, to associate with the cylinder lo an auxiliary roller 30 mounted freely rotatable at the end of a cylinder 31 mounted on the machine using suitable supports 32. This roller 30 is moved away from the cylinder 10 by the retraction of the cylinder 31 before the fabric is put in place and then it is applied against the latter in line with the non-slip end portion 27 of cylinder 10.

Sur la figure 3, on a volontairement dessiné avec un retrait le galet 30 pour laisser voir l'étoffe 1 et le pli 3 qui est, lui aussi, dessiné légèrement ouvert. En réalité, le pli 3 est écrasé et les deux épaisseurs de l'étoffe se touchent sous l'effet de la tension que crée le cylindre tendeur 12. Celui-ci est mis à sa position de tension dès que l'étoffe a été mise en place avec son pli 3, comme on vient de l'expliquer.In FIG. 3, the roller 30 has been voluntarily drawn with a withdrawal to reveal the fabric 1 and the fold 3 which is also drawn slightly open. In reality, the fold 3 is crushed and the two thicknesses of the fabric touch each other under the effect of the tension created by the tensioning cylinder 12. The latter is put in its tension position as soon as the fabric has been put in place with its fold 3, as we have just explained.

Dans cet état du dispositif, le pli 4 n'existant pas encore, le bord libre terminal lA de l'étoffe 1 se trouve dans la région de la gorge 29 du cylindre lo Le gulde replieur 16 est en retrait par rapport à ce bord libre lA. Il est supporté par le palier 18 dans une région intermédiaire ménagée entre le cylindre 10 et la zone de piquage définie par le pied presseur 6 et l'aiguille 5.In this state of the device, the fold 4 does not yet exist, the free terminal edge 1A of the fabric 1 is found in the region of the groove 29 of the cylinder lo The folding gulde 16 is set back relative to this free edge lA. It is supported by the bearing 18 in an intermediate region formed between the cylinder 10 and the stitching area defined by the presser foot 6 and the needle 5.

Le palier 18 est légèrement incliné ou, en variante, la face supérieure 23 du guide replieur 16 est conformée pour que l'aileron 25 soit appliqué contre l'étoffe 1 mise en état de tension.The bearing 18 is slightly inclined or, as a variant, the upper face 23 of the folding guide 16 is shaped so that the fin 25 is applied against the fabric 1 placed in a tension state.

On fait alors pivoter de 90° environ le guide replieur 16, par l'intermédiaire du vérin 20, en sens horaire quand on regarde les figures 5, 6, pour le mettre dans sa position d'activité dans laquelle la gorge 21 s'étend parallèlement au bord plié 3, dans un plan transversal à la gorge 29 du cylindre 10 au droit de la zone de piquage. Pendant ce mouvement, l'aileron 25 rencontre le bord libre lA de l'étoffe 1 et le repousse vers le pli 3, en amorçant la formation du pli intérieur 4. Quand il est repoussé, le bord libre lA qui était perpendiculaire au cylindre 10 se met en oblique en se rapprochant du pli 3. L'existence de la gorge 29 facilite cette mise en oblique du bord libre lA.The folding guide 16 is then pivoted by approximately 90 °, by means of the jack 20, clockwise when looking at FIGS. 5, 6, to put it in its operating position in which the groove 21 extends parallel to the folded edge 3, in a plane transverse to the groove 29 of the cylinder 10 in line with the stitching area. During this movement, the fin 25 meets the free edge lA of the fabric 1 and pushes it towards the fold 3, initiating the formation of the inner fold 4. When it is pushed back, the free edge lA which was perpendicular to the cylinder 10 is obliquely approaching the fold 3. The existence of the groove 29 facilitates this oblique setting of the free edge lA.

On pourrait se dispenser de la gorge 29 si on prévoyait entre le cylindre 10 et le guide replieur 16 une distance assez importante pour que le bord libre lA possède assez de liberté, malgré la tension donnée par le cylindre tendeur 12, pour pouvoir se mettre en oblique.We could dispense with the groove 29 if there was provided between the cylinder 10 and the folding guide 16 a distance large enough that the free edge lA has enough freedom, despite the tension given by the tensioning cylinder 12, to be able to put in oblique.

Pour une plus grande compacité du dispositif, il est préférable de rapprocher le guide replieur 16 et le cylindre l0 et de prévoir sur ce dernier la gorge 29.For greater compactness of the device, it is preferable to bring the folding guide 16 and the cylinder 10 closer together and to provide the groove 29 on the latter.

Quand le pli 4 a été amorcé comme on le voit sur la figure 6, on fait tourner l'étoffe 1 sur une longueur de quelques centimètres autour des cylindres 10, 12 et du galet 9, sans abaisser le pied presseur 6 et sans actionner l'aiguille 5. Tout moyen d'entraînement agissant sur l'étoffel peut être adopté. Il est spécialement avantageux de se servir du galet entraîneur 8 déjà prévu à cet usage sur la machine à coudre. Pour ne pas faire tourner ce galet 8 à partir du moteur de la machine, ce qui actionnerait l'aiguille 5, on interpose une roue libre (non visible sur les figures) sur l'arbre du galet 8 et on fait tourner ce dernier au moyen d'un moteur auxiliaire (non représenté). Quand l'étoffe 1 a été déplacée en rotation sur quelques centimètres, le pli intérieur 4 a été formé correctement par la gorge 21. Dès que ce pli 4 dépasse l'aiguille 5, on abaisse le pied presseur 6 et on met en marche la machine qui effectue la couture de l'ourlet. Avant que le début de la couture atteigne le guide replieur 16, on remet celui-ci à sa position d'effacement et on coud encore sur quelques centimètres pour que les piqûres se recouvrent légèrement.When the fold 4 has been started as seen in FIG. 6, the fabric 1 is rotated over a length of a few centimeters around the cylinders 10, 12 and the roller 9, without lowering the presser foot 6 and without actuating the needle 5. Any drive means acting on the fabric can be adopted. It is especially advantageous to use the driving roller 8 already provided for this purpose on the sewing machine. In order not to rotate this roller 8 from the engine of the machine, which would actuate the needle 5, we interpose a freewheel (not visible in the figures) on the shaft of the roller 8 and the latter is rotated by means of an auxiliary motor (not shown). When the fabric 1 has been moved in rotation over a few centimeters, the inner fold 4 has been formed correctly by the groove 21. As soon as this fold 4 exceeds the needle 5, the presser foot 6 is lowered and the machine that sews the hem. Before the start of the seam reaches the folding guide 16, we return it to its erasing position and we sew again for a few centimeters so that the stitches overlap slightly.

On peut parfaire l'automaticité du dispositif de l'invention en installant sur la machine, entre les cylindres 10 et 12, une tubulure 33 de soufflage d'air disposée, de préférence, parallèlement à ces cylindres. Cette tubulure 33 a une extrémité 34 ouverte en direction de l'intérieur de la manche ou de la jambe en cours de confection d'ourlet. Son extrémité opposée est raccordée par un tuyau 35 à une source 36 d'air sous pression, à 8 bars par exemple. Une vanne 37 normalement fermée est montée sur le tuyau 35.One can perfect the automaticity of the device of the invention by installing on the machine, between the cylinders 10 and 12, an air blowing tube 33 arranged, preferably, parallel to these cylinders. This tubing 33 has one end 34 open towards the inside of the sleeve or of the leg in the process of making the hem. Its opposite end is connected by a pipe 35 to a source 36 of pressurized air, at 8 bars for example. A normally closed valve 37 is mounted on the pipe 35.

Quand la couture d'un ourlet est terminée, la manche ou la jambe a fait un tour complet sur elle-même. Ce mouvement de rotation a donné naissance à un étranglement avant son raccordement avec le reste du vêtement. Par conséquent, dès que le pied presseur 6 a été relevé, que le cylindre tendeur 12 a été remis à sa position d'effacement, l'ouverture pendant un bref instant de la vanne 37 produit un effet de chasse d'air comprimé qui éjecte la manche ou la jambe de la machine. Ceci suppose que l'aiguille 5 a été arrêtée au-dessus de l'étoffe 1 et que le fil a été coupé. Les machines à coudre actuelles sont équipées d'un coupe-fil et d'un organe de contrôle de la position de l'aiguille à l'arrêt. Ces deux moyens ne font donc pas partie du dispositif de l'invention.When the seam of a hem is finished, the sleeve or the leg has made a full turn on itself. This rotational movement gave rise to a constriction before it connected with the rest of the garment. Consequently, as soon as the presser foot 6 has been raised, that the tensioning cylinder 12 has been returned to its erasing position, the opening for a short time of the valve 37 produces a compressed air flushing effect which ejects the sleeve or leg of the machine. This assumes that needle 5 has been stopped above fabric 1 and that the thread has been cut. Current sewing machines are equipped with a thread cutter and with a control device for the position of the needle when stopped. These two means are therefore not part of the device of the invention.

Aussitôt après l'éjection, la machine est prête à recevoir une-nouvelle manche avec son pli extérieur 3 fait manuellement. Toutes les opérations qui suivent, décrites ci-dessus, s'exécutent automatiquement sous la commande et le contrôle de moyens connus en automatisme (détecteurs, arbre à came, programmateur, etc...). L'exécuticn automatique du pli intérieur 4 et de la couture d'ourlet laisse juste le temps de préparer la manche suivante avec son pli extérieur 3 pour sa mise en place aussitôt que le cycle automatique est terminé par l'éjection de la manche ourlée. De cette façon, il est possible de doubler la cadence de réalisation des ourlets à l'extrémité des manches et des jambes des vêtements.Immediately after ejection, the machine is ready to receive a new sleeve with its outer fold 3 made manually. All the operations which follow, described above, are carried out automatically under the command and the control of means known in automation (detectors, camshaft, programmer, etc ...). The automatic execution of the inner pleat 4 and the hem seam leaves just enough time to prepare the next sleeve with its outer pleat 3 for its implementation as soon as the automatic cycle is finished by ejecting the hemmed sleeve. In this way, it is possible to double the rate of production of the hems at the end of the sleeves and of the legs of the garments.

Claims (10)

1. Dispositif pour la couture d'un ourlet à l'extrémité d'une partie tubulaire en étoffe, destinée à équiper une machine à coudre ayant une aiguille (5), un pied presseur (6), un galet entraîneur (8), caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend un premier cylindre de guidage (10) monté en avant de l'aiguille (5) dans le sens de la couture et associé à une butée (26) de l'étoffe, un second cylindre tendeur (12) déplaçable entre une première position d'effacement et une seconde position de tension, un guide replieur (16) ayant une gorge latérale (21), ce guide (16) étant placé entre le pied presseur (6) et le cylindre (10) et étant déplaçable entre une position d'effacement et une position d'activité dans laquelle la gorge (21) donne naissance en avant de l'aiguille (5) à un pli intérieur (4) faisant partie de l'ourlet.1. Device for sewing a hem at the end of a tubular fabric part, intended to equip a sewing machine having a needle (5), a presser foot (6), a driving roller (8), characterized in that it comprises a first guide cylinder (10) mounted in front of the needle (5) in the sewing direction and associated with a stop (26) of the fabric, a second tensioning cylinder (12 ) movable between a first erasing position and a second tensioning position, a folding guide (16) having a lateral groove (21), this guide (16) being placed between the presser foot (6) and the cylinder (10) and being movable between an erasing position and an activity position in which the groove (21) gives rise in front of the needle (5) to an internal fold (4) forming part of the hem. 2. Dispositif selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que le premier cylindre de guidage (10) présente une gorge (29) se trouvant au droit de la gorge latérale (21) du guide replieur (16) quand celui-ci a été mis à sa position d'activité et au droit de la zone de piquage de la machine à coudre.2. Device according to claim 1 characterized in that the first guide cylinder (10) has a groove (29) located to the right of the lateral groove (21) of the folding guide (16) when it has been set its position of activity and in line with the stitching area of the sewing machine. 3. Dispositif selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que la butée (26) est constituée par un épaulement prévu sur le cylindre de guidage (10).3. Device according to claim 1 characterized in that the stop (26) is constituted by a shoulder provided on the guide cylinder (10). 4. Dispositif selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que le cylindre de guidage (10) présente au droit du galet entraîneur (8) de la machine à coudre une partie extrême (27) munie de moyens antidérapants (28).4. Device according to claim 1 characterized in that the guide cylinder (10) has the right of the drive roller (8) of the sewing machine an end part (27) provided with non-slip means (28). 5. Dispositif selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce que le guide replieur (16) comprend un corps (22) avec une face supérieure (23) prolongée par un aileron (25) qui s'étend transversalement à la gorge latérale (21) au-dessus de celle-ci.5. Device according to claim 1 characterized in that the folding guide (16) comprises a body (22) with an upper face (23) extended by a fin (25) which extends transversely to the lateral groove (21) at above it. 6._Dispositif selon la revendication 5 caractérisé en ce que l'aileron (25) est situé à une extrémité du corps (22) et le guide replieur (16) est muni sous sa face inférieure à son extrémité opposée d'une tige de pivotement (17).6._Device according to claim 5 characterized in that the fin (25) is located at one end of the body (22) and the folding guide (16) is provided under its lower face at its opposite end from a pivot rod (17). 7. Dispositif selon la revendication caractérisé en ce que le guide replieur (16) a sous sa facs inférieure un bossage (19) d'articulation d'un moyen de manoeuvre.7. Device according to claim characterized in that the folding guide (16) has in its lower facs a boss (19) for articulation of an operating means. 8. Dispositif selon la revendicatior. l caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une tubulure (33) de soufflage d'air raccordée par l'intermédiaire d'une vanne (37: à un réservoir d'air comprimé.8. Device according to the claim. l characterized in that it comprises a tube (33) for blowing air connected via a valve (37: to a reservoir of compressed air. 9. Dispositif selon la revendication 4 caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend un galet d'appui (30) disposé au droit de la partie extrême (27) du cylindre (10), ce galet (30) étant déplaçable entre une position d'appui contre ladite partie extrême (27) et une position d'éloignement de cette dernière.9. Device according to claim 4 characterized in that it comprises a support roller (30) disposed in line with the end part (27) of the cylinder (10), this roller (30) being movable between a position support against said end portion (27) and a position away from the latter. 10. Dispositif selon la revendication 1 caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend une roue libre montée sur l'arbre du galet entraîneur (8) et permettant l'entrainement en rotation de ce dernier pendant l'arrêt de l'aicuille (5).10. Device according to claim 1 characterized in that it comprises a free wheel mounted on the shaft of the driving roller (8) and allowing the latter to rotate during the stopping of the needle (5).
EP83400085A 1982-02-12 1983-01-13 Apparatus for automatically hemming the free ends of tubular parts of clothes Expired EP0087327B1 (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR8202343A FR2521604A1 (en) 1982-02-12 1982-02-12 DEVICE FOR AUTOMATICALLY EXECUTING GASKETS AT THE FREE END OF THE TUBULAR PARTS OF CLOTHES
FR8202343 1982-11-30

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EP0087327A1 true EP0087327A1 (en) 1983-08-31
EP0087327B1 EP0087327B1 (en) 1986-04-30

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US (1) US4473017A (en)
EP (1) EP0087327B1 (en)
JP (1) JPS58138480A (en)
DE (1) DE3363210D1 (en)
FR (1) FR2521604A1 (en)

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GB2209770A (en) * 1987-09-12 1989-05-24 Hams Corp Sewing threefold hem in trouser leg
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DE3363210D1 (en) 1986-06-05
JPS58138480A (en) 1983-08-17
EP0087327B1 (en) 1986-04-30
US4473017A (en) 1984-09-25
FR2521604A1 (en) 1983-08-19

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