CN1265025A

CN1265025A - Cosmetic compsn. containing whitening agent and exfoliant

Info

Publication number: CN1265025A
Application number: CN98807488A
Authority: CN
Inventors: Y·勒博伊; J·M·威尔莫特; G·麦穆达尔; A·施杰帕诺斯基
Original assignee: Mary Kay Co Ltd
Current assignee: Mary Kay Co Ltd; Kay Mary Inc
Priority date: 1997-06-20
Filing date: 1998-06-15
Publication date: 2000-08-30
Also published as: EA200000045A1; KR20010014048A; BR9810062A; WO1998058628A1; AU8144698A; EP1006995A1; SK173699A3; JP2002507202A

Abstract

The present invention relates to a stabilized cosmetic composition useful in the lightening or whitening of skin. The composition contains a stabilized active ingredient for whitening along with an alpha hydroxy acid. The present invention is also a method of improving skin tone, moisturization and skin firmness through the use of the stabilized cosmetic composition and a moisture source.

Description

The cosmetic composition that comprises brightening agent and remover

The present invention relates to comprise the cosmetic composition of transmission system, these transmission systems are transferred to the skin active agent beauty treatment on the cuticular effective site by new mode.The present composition especially (but not exclusively) can be used as cosmetic composition.The present invention also comprises a kind of stable anhydrous transmission system that is used for water soluble acid.At last, the present invention relates to a kind of method that improves skin color, humidification and skin firmness.

Used many cosmetic compositions and skin whitening composition to reduce skin pigment deposit and raising skin color.These compositionss comprise kojic acid and derivant thereof.

Many other chemicals have tangible physiological action to skin.Class in these skin activity chemical compounds is that molecular weight is lower, for example has 10 or the αQiang Jisuosuan of carbon atom still less.These acid of so-called " alpha-hydroxy acid " have many effects to skin.Alpha-hydroxy acid (being called " AHA ' s ") but humidification dry skin and improve various diseases comprises acne, psoriasis and other dermatosis.AHA also can bring back to life skin effectively.According to concentration of using and time length, they can cause or stimulate and peel off the removal of organized layer (outer cutin), and stimulate the renewal of new skin layer, can obviously improve the outward appearance of skin like this.

Some AHA that has been used to produce these effects is the simplest alpha-hydroxy acid, that is, and and lactic acid and glycolic, citric acid and malic acid.These acid are also referred to as " fruit acid ", because they are present in the fruit, and are present in the Caulis Sacchari sinensis under the situation of glycolic.Known or proposed many other AHA or suitable α keto acid and analog can be used for bringing back to life skin or producing useful skin function.Some beta hydroxy acid also is useful as salicylic skin performance.People's such as Yu United States Patent (USP) 5091171 discloses some " skin acid ", incorporates it into the present invention as a reference at this.

Valuable AHA is very hydrophilic, soluble in water usually, and under the situation of lactic acid, (about 16.8 ℃) become liquid about room temperature.This hydrophilic is not often allowed with common hydrophobic cosmetics.The no aqueous nature of these cosmetics means, a spot of active hydrophilic agent may be because chemistry or physical-chemical in conjunction with losing its activity, or can not be transferred to skin surface to tell in suitable hydrophilic or aqueous environment as AHA.

In addition, the preferred ambient of these reagent is obvious acidity, and this condition is difficult to produce on the skin surface of handling with anhydrous or hydrophobic basically cosmetics.For product used in everyday, avoid stimulating having special meaning.

Have been found that if, be used in combination, can improve whitening effect as alpha-hydroxy acid (more specifically, lactic acid) with the brightening agent and the remover of kojic acid and so on.

Some further feature of the present invention provides in the following description, and some can obviously obtain or derive from the present invention from this description.Method that feature of the present invention can provide especially by claims and compound mode realize and reach.

According to the present invention, in this general description one concrete aspect, following content is wherein disclosed:

A kind of cosmetic composition of local application comprises:

A) be selected from kojic acid and derivant thereof, ascorbic acid and derivant thereof (comprising Magnesium ascorbate), hydroquinone, Arctostaphylos ura-ursi extract, Radix Glycyrrhizae extract, mulberry extract, arbutin, and composition thereof brightening agent;

B) be selected from lactic acid, glycolic, malic acid, citric acid and salicylic remover;

C) be used to carry the adsorbent or the absorbent granules carrier of the q.s of remover; With

D) base material of cosmetics, described base material have the film former of q.s to produce required cosmetics film when being administered to cosmetic composition on the skin.

Following content is also disclosed:

A kind of stable Lightening compositions, comprise be selected from kojic acid and derivant, ascorbic acid and derivant thereof (comprising Magnesium ascorbate), hydroquinone, Arctostaphylos ura-ursi extract, Radix Glycyrrhizae extract, mulberry extract, arbutin, and composition thereof brightening agent; With the gellant that is selected from castor oil derivative, siloxane polymer, siloxanes natural gum, bentonite and styrene/ethylene/propylene-based block copolymer.

Following content is also disclosed:

A kind of bright skin method comprises:

Water is administered on the surface of skin, the cosmetic composition that will comprise following material then is administered on the skin:

At last, following content is disclosed:

A kind of hydrophobic, anhydrous cosmetic composition basically of local application comprise:

A) be selected from the brightening agent of kojic acid, ascorbic acid and composition thereof;

B) lactic acid remover;

C) be selected from the age resister of vitamin A palmitate and vitamin A and derivant thereof;

D) be used to carry the adsorbent or the absorbent granules carrier of the q.s of remover; With

E) base material of cosmetics, described base material have the film former of q.s to produce required cosmetics film when being administered to cosmetic composition on the skin.

Others part of the present invention provides in following description, and part can obviously obtain from this description, maybe can know from implementing the present invention.Various key elements that purpose of the present invention and feature can provide by claims and compound mode realize or reach.

Present more detailed description various embodiments of the present invention and realization one or more modes of the present invention.Illustrative, the indefiniteness embodiment of these preferred embodiments of the present invention have also been described in addition.

The preferred embodiments of the invention relate to new cosmetic composition, wherein comprise stable Lightening compositions, remover and age resister to improve the skin whitening effect.

Brightening agent can include, but is not limited to kojic acid and derivant, ascorbic acid and derivant thereof (comprising Magnesium ascorbate), hydroquinone, Arctostaphylos ura-ursi extract, Radix Glycyrrhizae extract, mulberry extract, arbutin, and composition thereof brightening agent.Other brightening agent obviously is that cosmetics allotment teacher is known.Being preferred for brightening agent of the present invention is kojic acid and derivant and ascorbic acid and derivant thereof.

Brightening agent of the present invention is preferably stablized with anhydrous gellant.This anhydrous gellant of the present invention includes, but is not limited to castor oil derivative, for example trihydroxy glycerol three stearic acid, siloxane polymer, siloxanes natural gum, bentonite and styrene/ethylene/propylene-based block copolymer.If gellant comprises metal ion, should at first handle in case the reaction between metal ion and the active component with suitable chelating agen.Suitable chelating agen be in the cosmetics allotment field those of skill in the art understand fully.

Use gellant that water soluble acid stably is included in the anhydrous transmission system of the present invention.

The amount of brightening agent of the present invention preferably accounts for about 0.10-10.0% weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, more preferably from about 0.50-5.0% weight, most preferably from about 1.0-3.0% weight.Brightening agent can with mix with gellant before base material of cosmetics combines, or brightening agent and gellant are added in the base material of cosmetics in proper order.

Remover can be used in the compositions of the present invention.Remover not only can improve brightening/bright skin performance of brightening agent, but also can improve the overall visual and the sensation of skin.Cosmetic composition of the present invention can use the remover of alpha-hydroxy acid and so on, i.e. lactic acid and glycolic, citric acid and malic acid.Known many other can be used for AHA of the present invention or suitable α keto acid and analog, comprise some beta hydroxy acid, as salicylic acid.Being preferred for remover of the present invention is lactic acid.

Adsorbing agent carrier can be used for the present invention.According to the present invention; can adopt various materials as carrier; they can be with skin activity composition or reagent, and for example the remover of 'alpha '-hydroxy acids and so on is transferred on the skin with the activating agent form, and protecting these active component to leave simultaneously may be with other cosmetic composition of its deactivation.The suitable carriers material includes, but is not limited to polymer organic microsphere and inorganic particle.Some the commercially available microspheroidal powder that can be used for preparing cosmetics of the present invention comprises organic polymer material, as polyethylene, polypropylene and copolymer thereof, polyurethane, polyester, polyamide, polymethyl methacrylate, nylon, ethylene acrylate copolymer and polyvinylene base co-polymer.For the present invention, any basically nontoxic, nonirritating, compatible organic polymer material of beauty treatment all can use, as long as they can provide gratifying adsorbent or absorbent form, and also compatible with anhydrous excipient.

Some example of inorganic particle comprise Talcum, clay, organo-clay, Kaolin, Muscovitum, calcium salicylate and various metal (as, calcium and magnesium) various carbonate.

Although carrier can effectively play a role when greater particle size, carrier granular should be too not big, or they are too obvious concerning user as the component of compositions, otherwise can make cosmetics produce granule coarse or chiltern sense rather than smooth feeling.Therefore, at least 80% granule preferably is no more than 50 microns, more preferably no more than 20 microns.These granules should be too not little yet, or be absorbed in the sebaceous gland, and are undesirable although this can accept, and it is too little to offer the reservoir volume of " passenger " skin active agent.As long as can produce gratifying beauty treatment sensation when sprawling, these carrier granulars should be bigger, can discharge active component by the granule interior space from the surface or by surperficial perforate like this.Preferably, the diameter of at least 80% carrier granular is above 10 microns.Granule at least 80%, particularly preferred scope are the 10-20 micron, more preferably the 10-15 micron.Useful mean diameter is the 12-20 micron.

Porous carrier particle is particularly preferred, wherein is absorbed in intragranular liquid phase and occupies, and the particle space of 10-90% for example, rather than keep on particle surface simply.

Can comprise with the absorbent base material of local transmission skin active agent or skin activity solution as carrier and to account for the about 0.1-40.0% of cosmetic composition weight, preferred about 5.0-20.0%, the porous synthetic organic polymer microsphere of 6.5-10.0% more preferably from about, the acceptable polyamide of for example improving looks is as nylon 12.Handle carrying AHA or other skin hydrophilic active agent, the organic polymer microsphere can be given consumer's prescription with required organoleptic properties, as emulsus, powdery and thread quality.If discharge AHA or other skin active agent, the organic polymer microsphere can be used for absorbing skin oil, and this helps to control the discharge of oil.

In compositions of the present invention, the suitable example that can be transferred to the skin active agent on the skin includes, but is not limited to:

Anesthetis is as benzylalcohol, lignocaine and menthol;

Astringent is as Radix Hamamelidis Mollis, benzoic acid and aluminum salt or aluminum/zirconates;

Keratolytic is as resorcinol, salicylic acid, ascorbic acid and acetic acid;

Remover is as lactic acid, glycolic and other α or beta hydroxy acid;

Vasoconstrictor is as the phenyl adrenaline hydrochloride;

Outer analgesic, example hydrochloric acid pyribenzamine and Camphora;

Fire retardant is as the salt of enoxolone, α bisabolol;

Salicyclic acid derivatives and ibuprofen;

Anti-allergic agent is as allantoin, protein, trimethyl glycine, glycine, ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, sodium lactate;

Bleach, for example magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, hydrogen peroxide, kojic acid and hydroquinone;

The agent that reduces fat is as caffeine, aminophylline and other xanthine bases;

Chromogenesis promoter is as dihydroxy acetone; Substance having sun-screening function is as diethanolamine p-methoxycinnamic acid ester, glyceryl aminobenzoate, 2-hydroxyl-4-methoxyl group-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2-Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid;

Humidizer and wetting agent are as pantothenylol lacto phenyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid's salt, and Polyethylene Glycol (the about 40-10000 dalton of molecular weight), propylene glycol/glycol copolymer, glycerol, the poly-glycerine based polyalcohol, single-, two-, three-or polysaccharide or reduction single-, two-, three-or the polysaccharide or derivatives thereof, propylene glycol, the daltonian polypropylene glycol of the about 100-10000 of molecular weight, moisture absorption aminoacid, peptide and polypeptide or derivatives thereof, the glucose in urine aminoglycan, the amide of α and beta hydroxy acid or ester, the ethoxylated derivative of glycerol, propylene glycol, butanols or amylalcohol, inositol and choline chloride;

Nutrient is as vitamin C, vitamin B, folic acid and various mineral, as calcium, magnesium, ferrum, zinc, manganese, selenium and phosphorus.

If humidizer directly adds in the cosmetic composition, it most preferably adds the oxidation with the active brightening agent of acid-resistance in particulate vector.Be equal to other criterion of previous example and this paper, suggestion adds other skin active agent that is applicable to the present composition.OTC separate edition and Physician ' sDesk Reference have listed some this class reagent, incorporate it into the present invention as a reference at this.People's such as Schaefer United States Patent (USP) 5292512 discloses some this class reagent and other reagent, also incorporates it into the present invention as a reference at this.

Most preferably being used for skin active agent of the present invention is remover, as alpha-hydroxy acid, and lactic acid especially.

One or more skin active agents (comprising remover) account for about 0.01-20.0% weight of cosmetic composition of the present invention, and this point can add in the preferred embodiment of the present composition.More preferably, the addition of these reagent is about 0.5-8.0%, is more preferably about 1.0-5.0%.Can add other activating agent of significant proportion, this depends on their activity.

Although some skin active agent has various performances, as enough low fusing point, this make them can directly be absorbed or be adsorbed onto among the carrier substrate or on, but other skin active agent then at room temperature is a crystalline state, therefore preferably these activating agents is dissolved in the suitable hydrophilic solvent system.This dicyandiamide solution also should preferably have very little to anhydrous basically base material or not have affinity.This for solvent and skin activity solution thereof are kept among the carrier or on and the predetermined function that keeps skin active agent be important.In addition, this solvent suitably thickness further to help the migration of delaying skin activating agent from carrier.Also have, this solvent should be inert or inactive in the function aspects of skin active agent, or can not have a negative impact to it at least.

The liquid hydrophilic solvent of some kind or decentralized photo medium can be separately or as additive be used in combination with help one or more skin active agents are carried on the particulate vector or among, they comprise water, pure and mild ether.

The alcohol of suitable species comprise list with following structural formula-, two-, three-or polyhydroxy-alcohol:

Wherein R is H, CH ₃, or comprise saturated, unsaturated, the ring-type or the branched alkyl of 1-20 carbon atom; X is 0-1000000; Y is 0-100; Z is 0-10; And

R ¹Be H, CH ₃, O-CH ₃, O-CH ₂-CH ₃

The suitable example of these chemical compounds comprises glycerol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propanol, isopropyl alcohol, butanols, isobutanol, amylalcohol, isoamyl alcohol, neopentyl alcohol, diglycerol, polyglycereol, sorbitol, Polyethylene Glycol, polyhydric alcohol.

Suitable ether comprises the ether that does not replace and replace, as UCON ^Fluid (Union CarbideCorp.) or DOWANOL ^Fluid (Dow Chemical) or CARBITOL ^And CELLOSOLVE ^Solvent (Union Carbide).

In principle, suitable heavy-gravity, hydrophilic solvent or solvent mixture can according to skin active agent about 99: 1-1: 99 ratio is used.But select physics or the physical-chemical characteristic of preferred ratio to utilize solvent, the activity form transmission skin active agent in like this can liquid phase is absorbed to be absorbed the agent carrier granule.For this reason, although the solvent of less ratio may be favourable in some cases, preferably more a high proportion of solvent.The example of preferred proportion is about 1: 1-1: 20 parts of agent/solvent (weight base).Although these ratios are effectively for the iuntercellular activating agent, more effective iuntercellular activating agent can be than small scale (for example, about 1: 99-1: 20 parts of agent/solvent) exist as hydrophilic or water-soluble hormones (as, corticosteroid).The preferred solvent that is used for skin active agent (as, alpha-hydroxy acid (AHA)) is a glycerol.The viscosity of solvent help AHA kept among may carrier or on, its hydrophilic can make moisture of skin will dissolve AHA and pull out or be pulled away from microparticle simultaneously.

Said composition also preferably comprises age resister, as vitamin A palmitate or retinol derivant, especially retinoic acid.Age resister can improve the elasticity of skin and reduce the formation of fine wrinkle.The amount of age resister in cosmetic composition of the present invention is about 0.20-10.0% weight, more preferably from about 1.0-6.0% weight, most preferably from about 1.5-2.5% weight.

Base material of cosmetics can be aqueous or anhydrous.The suitable cosmetics base material is that those skilled in the art understand fully.Although can use aqueous base, preferred anhydrous hydrophobic base material.If the use aqueous base, those skilled in the art just should reduce as far as possible base material moisture with may oxidation contacting between the activating agent of degradation.

Preferred essentially no water base material can produce medium or the excipient that is used for the dispersed activity agent, and this medium can be liquid or semisolid, for example required beauty treatment performance is given the dispersant or the solvent of other beauty treatment composition of said composition.Therefore this anhydrous base material can comprise volatility hydrophobic cosmetics solvent more or less, wherein optional gellant is disperseed to produce required denseness.

Whitening cosmetic compositions of the present invention preferably with contain water source (the most common, humidifying composite) and be used in combination.This humidizer preferably was administered on the skin surface before using this whitening cosmetic compositions.But this is optional.

Except various active component, whitening cosmetic compositions of the present invention can comprise various products or processing aid.Adding these materials is that those skilled in the art understand easily, although the various additives of following description, this description also is not used in qualification.

Preferably, the invention provides a kind of film former to help particulate vector is adhered on the skin, and help to form the obstructive isolation layer with moisturize on the skin surface or near gathering.Film forming is meant, forms successive basically gas producing formation on skin surface.Obstructive is meant, places isolation layer on skin surface, and described isolation layer can block or delay volatile material basically from the loss of skin surface and they are assembled on the upper strata of skin.For the present invention, secluding film is preferably hydrophobic.

Can be separately or the cosmetics film former of some suitable species that is used in combination include, but is not limited to metallic soap, wax and film forming emollient.Some indefiniteness example of every kind of cosmetics film former is described now.Other is that those skilled in the art are known.

Metallic soap is the utility that can help to adhere to and promote to form hydrophobic film.The metallic soap gellant can be alkaline-earth metal or the aluminum alkanoate with 6-20 carbon atom, for example laruate of calcium, magnesium, zinc, aluminum or lithium, oleate or stearate or its mixture.The cosmetics metallic soap, for example Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt can be according to accounting for the about 1.0-5.0% of composition weight, and preferred about 3.0% ratio is used.Metallic soap can be used as ion gellant, adhesion promoter and hydrophobic film and forms auxiliary agent.

Other useful film former is a wax.Many suitable waxes of making present composition film former are that cosmetic field is known.Usually, these materials have formula R-X, and wherein R is C ₈-C _1000000Saturated, unsaturated, ring-type of long-chain or branched alkyl, X is-H ,-OR ¹Or-C-OR ¹¹, R wherein ¹Be H or C ₁-C ₂₄Saturated, unsaturated, ring-type or branched alkyl; R ¹¹For H maybe can form single-, two-, three-or the list of polyester-, two-, three-or the residue of polyol.

The fusing point of preferred wax is above 100 °F.Can use various materials, as glycerol wax ester, Cera Flava, ceresine, Brazil wax, candelilla wax and other acceptable wax of improving looks.

According to the present invention, total wax content of 0-10.0% is fit to the gratifying cosmetics of allotment.Preferably, total wax content is no more than 5.0%, more preferably no more than 3.0%.Suitable wax is, for example three behenic acid glyceride, ceresine, microwax, and its usage ratio is about 0.00-5.00%, preferably about 0.1-1.5%.More preferably, use the wax of about 0.25-0.5%, as three behenic acid glyceride and the ceresine that a higher proportion (about 1-2%) arranged.

According to cosmetic composition of the present invention, low wax content has the advantage that produces low sagging and high mobility.The useful function of wax is for adhering to, giving product with emulsus sense, film forming and increase viscosity.

Other useful film former is an emollient.These materials are liquid under 32-100 temperature usually.Can be used for emollient of the present invention and have following structural formula C _nH _(2n+2-x), wherein n is 6 to 100 ten thousand integer, and x is 0 or is no more than the even number of n, and can comprise saturated, unsaturated, side chain and cyclic hydrocarbon chain.Its example comprises: mineral oil, vaseline, PERMETHYL  fluid and polybutene.

That other useful film forming emollient comprises is single-, two-, three-or the list of polyol-, two-, three-or highly branched chain ,-cyclic ,-saturated or-undersaturated Arrcostab or ether, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyhydric alcohol.The example of these emollient includes, but is not limited to vegetable oil, for example soybean oil, babassu oil, Oleum Ricini, Oleum Gossypii semen, Chinese tallowtree seed oil, two joint shepherd's purse oil, perilla oil, Denmark's rapeseed oil, Testa oryzae oil, Petiolus Trachycarpi oil, palm kernel oil, olive oil, Semen Lini oil, cocos nucifera oil, Oleum helianthi, safflower oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen and Semen Maydis oil.Preferred saturated and polyunsaturated vegetable oil has the fatty acid component of 6-24 carbon atom.

Other suitable skin moistening film former comprises the ester with following structural formula:

R wherein ₁And R ₂Be saturated, unsaturated, side chain or cyclic alkyl, and be 0-about 20 with 2-24 carbon atom.

The new cosmetic composition of the present invention also can comprise silicone material to produce auxiliary film forming ability to a certain degree.Suitable silicone material is preferably water insoluble, comprises the many alkylsiloxanes of ring dimethyl polysiloxane, polyaryl siloxanes, many alkylaryls siloxanes, polysiloxanes natural gum, amino-functional polysiloxanes and polyether siloxane copolymer.United States Patent (USP) 4788006,4341799,4152416,3964500,3208911,4364837 and 4465619 has directly provided other suitable silicone material, incorporates it into the present invention as a reference at this.

Another kind of suitable secondary film formers comprises the material that forms by the monomeric polyreaction of following formula alkylene oxide:

Wherein n is the integer of 0-about 3.

These materials can be homopolymer or two or more monomeric copolymers.The example of homopolymer comprises poly(propylene oxide) and polybutylene oxide.Usually, the molecular weight of these materials is 100-10000 dalton.In addition, these materials can carry out condensation with list or multi-hydroxy alkyl alcohol, as UCON  fluid (from Union Carbide Corp.).

Film former can be used in combination to reach ideal aesthstic performance in final preparation separately or with other film former.The preferable range of film former is the 1-99% of composition weight, more preferably 1-50%.

The suitable non-membrane that hardens into can be according to about 0.5-5.0% as dimethyl polysiloxane, preferably about 0.6-1.5%, and more preferably from about 1.0% ratio is used.Its preferred function comprises film forming, Derma-Guard or water proof layer forming agent, lubricated and thread emollient.

Can use the film reinforcing agent, the Muscovitum handled of aluminium myristate for example, its ratio accounts for about 4.0-20.0% of composition weight, preferably about 5.0-8.0%, more preferably 6.5%.Preferred film reinforcing agent function comprises skin adherence, give compositions with emulsus and thread sense and promote the formation of hydrophobic film.

Although can strong cohesive property can be introduced in the anhydrous cosmetic composition by adding wax shape film former, too high wax content causes occurring sagging and the non-required sense of being clamminess when applied cosmetics, and causes cosmetics to be difficult to remove.

In order to address this problem, the present invention also provides a kind of new film forming system, wherein comprise the particulate mineral gellant (as, bentonite base gellant) of higher proportion and metallic soap gellant (as, Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt), use the only wax of less ratio (if any) simultaneously.

If this film system is used for comprising the cosmetic composition of microsphere, can obtains having excellent spreadability and not have viscosity or the good no moisture film of sagging.These ideal performances seem from the unique combination of " ball bearing " type greasy property of the skin adherence performance of metallic soap and microsphere.

In one embodiment of the invention, the carrying of lactic acid and so on AHA is by being dissolved in AHA in the glycerol, then the dissolved AHA of glycerol is absorbed on porous microsphere body or the thin polymer beads and realizes.This system is used for the hydrophobic environment, and wherein AHA can keep being stored in the porous microsphere body.In the time of on being administered to skin, because cosmetics are frictions or massage on the skin, so the microsphere skin surface that just nuzzles up, contact with moisture, discharge hydrophilic AHA-glycerol system by little porous polymer particles.

In case discharge, the microsphere that can get hollow has up till now slowed down the oil impregnate tendency with oil suction.

AHA preferably is carried on carrier granular in liquid medium, on the porous nylon granule, this liquid medium enough thickness AHA is anchored in the particulate hole in when allotment.Lactic acid is 16.8 ℃ of fusings, and need not any auxiliary agent just can absorb in the porous carrier particle on fusing point, that is, (for example, near 1: 1 weight) microsphere and lactic acid mixes, and is absorbed up to lactic acid with proper ratio.By stirring, promptly mix, have enough little particle diameter to be included in the fine powder in the carrier hole by use, can be similar with other acid, be carried on the carrier granular as the mixture of various fruit acid.

Long-term (in several weeks, for example 6 weeks or more) regularly (for example, every day) use after the cosmetic composition of the present invention, the bright skin or the whitening effect that are produced by the whitening cosmetic compositions begin to become obvious.

The preferred hydrophobic excipient that is used for activating agent carrying microsphere is a silicone gel, and this gel preferably uses the volatile siloxane solvent, allocates as dimethyl polysiloxane.Preferred gellant is trihydroxy glycerol three stearic acid.

Volatile solvent can be used as the hydrophobic excipient as ring dimethyl polysiloxane (preferred pentamer form), for example is used for paste-to-powder composition.Its proper ratio is about 20.0-70.0% of composition weight, preferably about 30-40%, more preferably from about 33.0%.Volatile solvent evaporates rapidly when using as wetting agent simultaneously.This paper is following to describe some other volatile siloxane solvent.

Being suitable for the gellant of making volatile solvent, is about 1.0-15.0% as the bentonitic amount of quatermium-18, more preferably from about 3-10%, more preferably from about 5.0-6.0%.But the gellant physics mode is stablized said composition and is used as pigment suspension body excipient, if there is pigment, but also oil suction and minimizing gloss.

In some prescription, can use wetting agent.If use the wetting agent of anhydro sorbitol isostearate and so on, its amount is about 1.0-10.0% of composition weight so, preferably about 3.5-4.5%, more preferably from about 4.0%.Preferred wetting agent can increase the capacity of solid matter, and produces hydrophobic film.

In suitable cosmetics, except AHA support powder (as, polymethyl methacrylate), can use the synthetic polymer microsphere, its ratio is about 8.0-20.0% of composition weight, preferably about 10.0-15.0%, more preferably from about 12.0%.This additional polymer microsphere produces " ball bearing " sense as sensitizer when using, use with solvent evaporation after produce soft dry sensation.Other effect comprises astigmatism and gives product with the powdery sense.

Butyrous low voc solvent ester, as different n-nonanoic acid second nonyl ester because volatility and to the molecular weight control of dicyandiamide solution and useful, its amount is about 1.0-10.0% weight of solvent, preferably about 4.0-6.0%, more preferably from about 5.0%.Preferred solvent also can be used as the lipophilic emollient, helps the dissolving of various compositions, and miscible with volatile vehicle solvent (as, dimethyl polysiloxane).

One or more oil-soluble humidizers can be used for increasing humidity, and as lauryl PCA, its amount accounts for about 0.4-2.5% of composition weight, and preferred about 0.5%; Or the cetyl dimethyl polysiloxane, its ratio is about 1.0-5.0%.The cetyl dimethyl polysiloxane can produce bright dry sensation, and helps film forming.

Humidizer can add in the cosmetic composition of the present invention, if but add, preferably it is carried on the porous microsphere body and is dispersed in the compositions.Except the adding humidizer, or in conjunction with adding humidizer, humidizer can be administered on the skin before using whitening cosmetic of the present invention.

Whitening cosmetic of the present invention is preferably in the existence of water and uses down.Moisture is to be used for skin hydration.Suitable water source comprises and specially adding with hydration skin, or the accidental liquid water that adds (for example, just after bathing or shower).Hydration can be by using humidizer or other aqueous phase composition is realized.

Kaolin or other oil absorber can be according to the about 0.50-3.0% that accounts for composition weight, preferably about 0.7-1.5%, and more preferably from about 1.0% ratio is used.Preferred oil absorber effect comprises skin oil, skin adherence, astigmatism and the opacification of hyperabsorption.

Can use to account for the about 0.10-5.0% of composition weight, preferably about 0.3-1.0%, more preferably from about 0.50% opacifying agent covers and helps to cover skin defect as titanium dioxide to produce.

The volatility polar activator solvent that is used for gellant can be according to accounting for the about 0.75-3.0% of composition weight as hexanediol, preferably is lower than approximately 2.0%, uses more preferably no more than about 1.0% ratio.This can be used as binding agent plasticizer, solvent and softening agent, can produce moisture-proof and oxidative resistance simultaneously.

For example can use, the antiseptic of 0.1-0.3% weight, as methyl parahydroxybenzoate or propyl ester, this is that those skilled in the art are known.

Can use other optional member, known as those skilled in the art, comprise pigment and spice.Some other optional member is: linoleic acid ester of vitamin e, its ratio are about 0.10%, as auxiliary humidizer; Vitamin e acetate, about 0.10%, as free radical agent for capturing and antioxidant; Retinyl palmitate, about 0.1%, as the derivant of tretinoin to reduce fine rule; Ceramide, be lower than about 0.3%, as the firm agent of skin; Sphingolipid is lower than approximately 0.3%, firmly acts on as skin.Sphingolipid also can be used for improving the isolation performance of skin to increase the infiltration of humidity and minimizing pungent.

A kind of ring dimethyl polysiloxane chemical compound that is preferred for cosmetic composition of the present invention has structural formula-[R ₁R ₂SiO] _n-, R wherein ₁And R ₂Be respectively have a 1-4 carbon atom have or do not have a substituent low alkyl group, described substituent group is selected from halogen, hydroxyl, carboxyl or methoxyl group, and n is 3-6; These chemical compounds can be cyclic.Used volatility ring dimethyl polysiloxane solvent can be single a kind of or its mixture in the aforesaid compound, and these chemical compounds can be homopolymer, wherein all n monomeric unit is all similar, or heteropolymer, and wherein these monomeric units are different.Some preferably encircles dimethyl polysiloxane is dimethyl polysiloxane, and especially wherein n is 4 or 5, and R ₁And R ₂Be respectively the homopolymer of methyl, as Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

According to the final products compositions, for example the characteristic of lotion, powder, mastic, rod can be used other optional member, and this is that those skilled in the art are known, and its consumption also is that those skilled in the art are known.These compositions include, but is not limited to spice, colorant, pigment, antiseptic, wetting agent, oil absorber, opacifying agent and antioxidant.

Following examples are used to illustrate the present invention.Because these embodiment only are used for explanation, therefore the invention is not restricted to this.

Embodiment 1

According to following part by weight, following material is mixed, prepare the ascorbic acid dry mixture.

W/w% ascorbic acid 3.00 Dodecanoic acid, zinc salts 3.00 Kaolin 1.00 Silicon stones 0.20 barium sulfate 3.80

11.00％

Embodiment 2

Use the dry mixture of embodiment 1,, following ingredients listed mixed prepare cosmetic composition according to giving ratio.Said composition is administered on the skin to improve skin color and blast.

The w/w% dimethyl polysiloxane, the different nonyl ester 5.00 lauryl PCA of 350Visc. 1.00 anhydro sorbitol isostearates 4.00 different n-nonanoic acids 0.50 cetyl dimethyl polysiloxane 2.13 three behenic acid glyceride 0.32 ceresine 1.43 microwaxes 0.32 propylparaben 0.10 methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.30 ring dimethyl polysiloxane 33.50 PA-12s/lactic acid (30%) 3.33 ascorbic acid dry mixture 11.00 PA-12 6.67PMMA pearls 12.00 thixotropic gel RCM (three hydroxyl first glycerine stearic acid) 16.00 Vitamin E linoleates 0.50 tocopherol acetate 0.50 retinyl palmitate 0.10Parsol MCX 0.50 lavender 0.30 hydrophobic sphingolipid 0.50

100％

Embodiment 3

According to following part by weight, following material is mixed to prepare the kojic acid dry mixture.

W/w% Dodecanoic acid, zinc salt 1.00 Cab-O-sils 0.41 barium sulfate 2.07EDTA disodium 0.10FD ﹠ amp; C Red 40 0.01FD ﹠ amp; C Yellow #5 0.02 titanium dioxide 1.00 methyl p-hydroxybenzoates 0.30 propylparaben 0.10 sodium lactate, 100% 1.05 kojic acid 1.00

7.06％

Embodiment 4

Use the kojic acid dry mixture of embodiment 3,, following ingredients listed mixed prepare cosmetic composition according to giving ratio.Said composition is administered on the skin to improve skin color and blast.

The w/w% dimethyl polysiloxane. 5.00 cetyl dimethyl polysiloxanes, 10.00 three behenic acid glyceride, 0.38 paraffin, 1.72 microwaxes, 0.38 ring dimethyl polysiloxane, 17.37 kojic acid dry mixtures, 7.05 lactic acid/glycerine/nylon 10.00 PA-12 4.00PMMA pearls 11.00 three hydroxyl first glycerine stearic acid (5.45%)/31.00 ring dimethyl polysiloxane tocopherol 0.20 tocopherol acetate 0.50 retinyl palmitate 0.10 ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate 0.50 lavender 0.30 hydrophobic sphingolipid 0.50

100％

Embodiment 5

Use 3 groups of 20 women to test the whitening effect of the present composition.The group member is 35-60 year, and must satisfy Fitzpatrick skin classification I-III.These group members are got rid of with revising Glogau classification I or IV.

The classification of Fitzpatrick skin

I always burns easily; Tanning never

II always burns easily; Tanning hardly

The III moderate is burnt; Tanning gradually

IV is minimum to burn; Always easy tanning

V seldom burns; A large amount of tannings

VI never burns; Degree of depth pigmentation

Modification Glogau classification

I gentleness: no cutin product or scar; Seldom wrinkling

II is moderate: early stage photochemistry keratose-light yellow skin; Decolouring; Wrinkling in early days-the parallel line of laughing at

III is morning: photochemistry keratose-obvious yellow skin; Because telangiectasis and wrinkling-static; Moderate photochemistry scar

IV is serious: the photochemistry keratose; Skin carcinoma has appearred; Wrinkling-because photochemistry, gravity and the former thereby more cutis laxa of kinetics; Serious acne scar

Test period was 13 weeks, and wherein these three groups are all used following material:

I?VISIBLE?ACTION?SKIN?REVEALING?LOTION

II follows VISIBLE ACTION SKINREVEALING LOTION  according to anhydrous cosmetic composition of the present invention

III follows the body care moisturizing lotion according to anhydrous cosmetic composition of the present invention

VTSIBLE?ACTION?SKIN?REVEALING?LOTION

As seen acting on skin exposure lotion is a kind of humidizer, is mixed and made into according to giving ratio (percetage by weight) by following composition.

2.0% acetyl group lanoline

4.0% stearyl alcohol and ceteareth 20

2.5% stearyl alcohol

5.0% PPG-14 butyl ether

1.0% acetic acid cetyl ester, acidylate

0.25% dimethyl polysiloxane

70.5% water

3.0％ Methyl?Gluceth-10

0.25% xanthan gum

3.0% water

3.0% lactic acid, 88%

3.0% sodium lactate

0.20% butyl carbamic acid iodine propyl diester

0.20% DMDM hydantoin

The Actiphylte of 0.08% SEN CHA

0.20% Semen Tritici aestivi-Fructus Hordei Vulgaris-Semen sojae atricolor-Semen setariae

0.50% Palmic acid retinyl ester

0.25% spice

0.06% bisabolol

According to anhydrous cosmetic of the present invention

According to cosmetic composition of the present invention is a kind of skin whitening or cosmetic composition.This anhydrous composition comprises the various compositions of following percetage by weight:

5.0% dimethyl polysiloxane

10.0% cetyl dimethyl polysiloxane

0.38% 3 behenic acid glyceride

1.72% paraffin

0.38% microwax

10.4% ring dimethyl polysiloxane

6.97% ring dimethyl polysiloxane

1.05% sodium lactate

The dry mixture of 6.0% kojic acid

10.0% lactic mixt

4.0% nylon 12

11.0% PMMA pearl

31.0% thixotropic gel RCM

0.2% tocopherol

0.5% tocopherol acetas

0.1% Palmic acid retinyl ester

0.5% ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate

0.3% Garden lavender

0.5% hydrophobic sphingolipid

On the uniformity of skin color, improve 20-35% according to compositions of the present invention, on skin elasticity, improve 30-35%, on the skin firmness, improve 50-60%, on wrinkle of skin, reduce 30-80%, on the skin transparency, improve 30-40%, on fine rule, reduce 30-40%, on skin coarseness, reduce 40-50%, and on total skin condition, improve 20-30%.

Although below described and enclosed illustrative embodiment of the present invention, it will of course be appreciated that those skilled in the art obviously can carry out various improvement.

Claims

1. the cosmetic composition of a local application comprises:

A) be selected from kojic acid and derivant thereof, ascorbic acid and derivant thereof, comprise Magnesium ascorbate, hydroquinone, Arctostaphylos ura-ursi extract, Radix Glycyrrhizae extract, mulberry extract, arbutin, and composition thereof brightening agent;

D) base material of cosmetics, described base material have the film former of q.s to produce required cosmetics film when being administered to described cosmetic composition on the skin.

2. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein said base material of cosmetics is a kind of hydrophobic, anhydrous base material of cosmetics basically.

3. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 1, it also comprises a kind of age resister that is selected from vitamin A palmitate and retinol and derivant thereof.

4. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein said compositions also comprises a kind of anhydrous gellant.

5. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 4, wherein said anhydrous gellant is selected from castor oil derivative, siloxane polymer, siloxanes natural gum, bentonite and styrene/ethylene/propylene-based block copolymer.

6. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 5, wherein said anhydrous gellant is the trihydroxy tristerin.

7. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 2, wherein said hydrophobic phase base material of cosmetics comprises one or more solvent esters that are selected from glycerol polar solvent, siloxane solvent and composition thereof.

8. stable Lightening compositions comprises:

Be selected from kojic acid and derivant thereof, ascorbic acid and derivant thereof (comprising Magnesium ascorbate), hydroquinone, Arctostaphylos ura-ursi extract, Radix Glycyrrhizae extract, mulberry extract, arbutin, and composition thereof brightening agent; With

Be selected from the gellant of castor oil derivative, siloxane polymer, siloxanes natural gum, bentonite and styrene/ethylene/propylene-based block copolymer.

9. cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, wherein said brightening agent is selected from kojic acid, ascorbic acid and composition thereof, and described anhydrous gellant is selected from the trihydroxy tristerin.

10. the method for a bright skin comprises:

Some water are administered on the surface of skin, then a kind of cosmetic composition that comprises following material are administered on the described skin:

11. according to the method for claim 10, wherein said base material of cosmetics is a kind of hydrophobic, anhydrous base material of cosmetics basically.

12. according to the method for claim 10, wherein said whitening cosmetic also comprises a kind of age resister that is selected from vitamin A palmitate and retinol and derivant thereof.

13. according to the method for claim 11, wherein said Lightening compositions also comprises a kind of anhydrous gellant.

14. according to the method for claim 13, wherein said anhydrous gellant is selected from castor oil derivative, siloxane polymer, siloxanes natural gum, bentonite and styrene/ethylene/propylene-based block copolymer.

15. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein said anhydrous gellant is the trihydroxy tristerin.

16. according to the method for claim 11, wherein said hydrophobic phase base material of cosmetics comprises one or more solvent esters that are selected from glycerol polar solvent, siloxane solvent and composition thereof.

17. hydrophobic, the anhydrous cosmetic composition basically of a local application comprise:

B) lactic acid remover;

C) be selected from the age resister of vitamin A palmitate and retinol and derivant thereof;