CN1222080A - Cosmetic compsns. - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition- in the form of a waterinoil emulsion comprising: (a) continuous oil phase and. (b) discontinuous aqueous phase comprising (i) water; (ii) acidic skin care active which is insoluble in said aqueous phase; and (iii) nonionic surfaictanit selected from polyoxyethylenepolyoxypropylene ethers of C4C22 alcohols. aind mixtures thereof. The compositions of the invention provide increased product stability and improved acidic skin care active solubility.

Description

Cosmetic composition

Invention field

The present invention relates to cosmetic composition, more specifically, relate to painted foundation cream make-up composition and covering agent.

Background of invention

Foundation compositions can impose on face and health other position so that the colour of skin and quality evenly and cover pore, defective, microgroove etc.Also can use foundation compositions and make skin moisturizing, balance skin oiliness and protection antagonism sunlight, the adverse effect of wind and adverse circumstances are provided.The general type that cosmetic composition obtains is liquid state or emulsifiable paste shape suspension, emulsion, gel, compacting powder or anhydrous oil or waxiness compositions.At US-A-3,444,291, US-A-4,486,405, US-A-4,804,532, US-A-3,978,207, US-A-4,659,562, US-A-5,143,722 and the X IV that the people showed an I.F.S.C.C. conference such as Nakamura preprint collection, Barcelona, 1986, Vol.I has the description of such cosmetic makeup compositions among the 51-63 (1986).

The foundation compositions of water-in-oil emulsion form is for the public knows, and they can provide good covering effect and good skin impression, persistency and outward appearance are provided.Simultaneously, be desirable to provide a kind of active foundation compositions of topical anti-acne that has.Many compound known are arranged, when the part is applied to skin, show the anti-acne characteristic.It is normally used that to have the active cutin solubilising reagent of anti-acne be salicylic acid.Because salicylic acid can not be dissolved in the water substantially, so be difficult to it is incorporated into the aqueous phase of emulsion compositions.When salicylic acid is carried from the oil phase that contains pigment of foundation compositions emulsion, because the particularly iron oxide type pigment reaction of salicylic acid and pigment can cause fading of compositions.Therefore wish to carry salicylic acid from aqueous phase with soluble form.

In addition, because acidic skin nursing agent (when having the free acid of high concentration in solution) activity under low pH condition is the highest, wish under the pH condition that mainly exists, to carry nursing agent from aqueous phase with protonated form.

Done the aqueous phase of much attempting salicylic acid is incorporated into emulsion compositions.For example, disclose a kind of make-up composition of emulsion form among the WO 95/04517, it contains a kind of acid anti-acne active matter that is dissolved in aqueous phase and is dispersed in a kind of pigment in the oil phase or the mixture of several pigment.PVP is disclosed as chelating agent to strengthen salicylic dissolubility.But hope can further improve salicylic acid and other acidic skin is nursed the dissolubility of active matter at the aqueous phase of emulsion compositions.The dissolubility of improving active matter can increase the content of aqueous phase water and reduce the content of aqueous phase alcoholic solvent.

Therefore, main purpose of the present invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition, and it comprises a kind of aqueous solution with the deliquescent acidic skin nursing of improved active matter active matter.

It also is one object of the present invention that a kind of cosmetic composition with improved products stability is provided.

Another object of the present invention provides a kind of cosmetic composition, has improved control oiliness and improved outward appearance when being applied to it on skin.

Summary of the invention

According to an aspect of the present invention, provide a kind of cosmetic composition of water-in-oil emulsion form, it comprises:

(a) successive oil phase and;

(b) discontinuous water, it comprises:

(ⅰ) water

(ⅱ) acidic skin that is insoluble to described water is nursed active matter; With

(ⅲ) non-ionic surface active agent is selected from polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide ether of C4-C22 alcohol and composition thereof.

Cosmetic composition of the present invention provides the improved dissolubility and the improved products stability of skin care active thing.

All content and ratio are all based on the gross weight of compositions, except as otherwise noted.The all average by weight basis of chain length and extent of alkoxylation is represented.

Detailed Description Of The Invention

Cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises water, oil phase and is selected from the non-ionic surface active agent of the polyethylene glycol oxide of C4-C22 alcohol-polypropylene oxide ether and composition thereof, and wherein water comprises the water or the water-alcohol solution of acidic skin care active matter.Compositions is the water-in-oil emulsion form.

Acidic skin nursing active matter

The present composition comprises a kind of acidic skin nursing active matter.

Term used herein " acidic skin nursing active matter " refers to any skin care active thing that contains acid functional group (for example hydroxyl, sulfonic group) that is insoluble in the water.Term used herein " insoluble " refers to, and under pH3 and 25 ℃ of conditions, is lower than 0.2% acidic skin nursing active matter and is dissolved in aqueous phase.It should be noted that phrase used herein " is insoluble to water " and refers to, when the polyethylene glycol oxide that does not have C4-C22 alcohol at aqueous phase-polypropylene oxide ether, acidic skin nursing active matter is insoluble to water.

Suitable acidity nursing active matter can be selected from hydroxy carboxylic acid.Hydroxy carboxylic acid used herein can be selected from hydroxyl monocarboxylic acid and hydroxydicarboxylic acid and composition thereof.Hydroxy carboxylic acid can be with the form of free acid, lactone or salt, or exists with stereoisomer such as D, L, DL and mesomeric form.Lactone both can be that intermolecular lactone also can be the intramolecularly lactone, and still the most common is the intramolecularly lactone of circulus, and it forms after removing one or more hydrones between hydroxyl and hydroxy-acid group.Because hydroxy carboxylic acid is Organic substance in essence, they can form salt or complex with inorganic or organic base such as ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide or triethanolamine reaction.The optional monobasic hydroxy-acid of hydroxy carboxylic acid that is fit to from following chemical constitution:

R ₁(CR ₂OH) _m(CH ₂) _nCOOH is R wherein ₁, R ₂Be H, alkyl, aralkyl or aryl, can be saturated or unsaturated, straight chain, side chain or annular, have 1 to 25 carbon atom; M=1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8 or 9; N=0 or be no more than 23 number; As long as work as R ₁During=H, n=6 or be no more than 23 number.

Represent R ₁And R ₂Typical alkyl, aralkyl and aryl comprise methyl, ethyl, propyl group, isopropyl, benzyl and phenyl.R ₁(R ₂) and (CH ₂) _nHydrogen atom can be by non-sense element such as F, CL, Br, I, S or as C ₁-C ₉The group of saturated or undersaturated low alkyl group or alkoxyl replaces.Representational monobasic hydroxy-acid is a phenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid (mandelic acid), phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid, 3-phenyl 2 hydroxy propanoic acid (phenyl-lactic acid), 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxy valeric acid, 2,3,4,5, the 6-hexonic acid, 2-hydroxy-dodecanoic acid (α hydroxylauric acid), 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxy enanthic acid, diphenyl 2-hydroxyacetic acid (diphenylglycollic acid), the 4-hydroxymandelic acid, the 4-chloro mandelic acid, the 3-hydroxybutyric acid, 4-hydroxyl butanols, the 2-hydroxycaproic acid, the 5-hydroxy-dodecanoic acid, sabinic acid, the 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, juniperic acid, 2-hydroxy-4-methyl valeric acid, 3-hydroxyl-4-methoxyl group mandelic acid, 4-hydroxyl-3-methoxyl group mandelic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methyl butanoic acid, 3-(2-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid, 3-(4-hydroxyphenyl) lactic acid, six hydrogen mandelic acid, 3-hydroxy-3-methyl valeric acid, the 4-hydroxydecanoic acid, 5-hydroxydecanoic acid and aleuritic acid.

The another kind of hydroxy acid that is applicable to this is the hydroxyl binary acid of following formula:

HOOC (CHOH) _m(CH ₂) _nCOOH is m=1 wherein, and 2,3,4,5,6,7,8, or 9; N=0 or be no more than 23 integer.

The hydrogen that is connected on the carbon atom of (CHOH) group can replace by non-sense element such as F, Cl, Br, I, S or as the group of saturated or unsaturated low alkyl group of C1-C9 or alkoxyl.

Representational hydroxy-dicarboxylic acid has 2-hydroxymalonic acid. (hydroxymalonic acid), 2-hydroxyl butanediol (malic acid), erythrose diacid (erythraric acid) and 2,3-dyhydrobutanedioic acid (tartaric acid), arabinose diacid (arabiraric acid), ribose diacid (ribaric acid), xylose diacid (xylaric acid) and lyxose diacid (lyxaric acid), glucaric acid (saccharic acid), galactosaccharic acid (glactaric acid), mannosaccharic acid (mannaric acid), gulose diacid (gularic acid), allaric acid, altrose diacid (altraric acid), idosaccharic acid (idaric acid) and talomucic acid (talaricacid).

The mixture of hydroxy acid also can be used for this compositions.Adopt hydroxy acid here from the angle that reduces wrinkle and improvement dermal sensation and outward appearance.

Here other hydroxy acid of Shi Yonging comprises salicylic acid, tretinoin and Azelaic Acid.

The preferred acidic skin care activity composition that is applicable to this is salicylic acid and Azelaic Acid and composition thereof, especially salicylic acid.Salicylic acid is as the keratin-dissolving active component of this compositions.

The content of acidic skin care active component be composition weight about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3%.

The acidic skin care active component dissolves at aqueous phase, and water can contain alcohol, for example is the solution based on C2-C6 alcohol, two pure and mild many alcohol, and preferred alcohol is selected from ethanol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol and its mixture.Alcohol preferably is present in the compositions with about 1% to about 20% content, and more preferably about 8% or still less, especially be about 4% or still less.In especially preferred embodiment, compositions is substantially free of alcohol, that is to say alcohol only account for composition weight about 1% or still less.

Said composition preferably contains has an appointment 5% to about 80%, more preferably from about 30% to about 70% heavy water.

The solution of final skin care activity composition preferably has under the room temperature (25 ℃) less than the pH value of about pKa+1, and wherein pKa is the logarithm acidity constant of protonated fully skin care activity composition.In preferred embodiments, the pH of final solution is less than about pKa.

Therefore, the logarithm acidity constant is defined by following balance

H ⁺+ H _N-1A=H _nA is H wherein _nA is fully protonated acid, and n is the proton number in the protonated fully acid, H _N-1A is the conjugate base corresponding to the acid of loss proton.

Therefore this equilibrated acidity constant (Kn) is: $\frac{\[H_{n}A\]}{\[H^{+}\]\[H_{n-1}A\]}$

And pK _a=log ₁₀K _n

For the purpose of this description, acidity constant is that zero condition is given a definition 25 ℃ and ionic strength.Desirable literature value under the possible situation (seeing " stability constant of metal-ionic complex ", SpecialPublication No.25, chemistry meeting, London); When query occurring, use glass electrode by these values of potentiometric determination.

The pKa of acidic skin care active component used herein is preferably about 1 to about 5.5, and more preferably from about 2 to about 4.5, particularly about 2 to about 4.0.

It is about 6 that water pH is lower than, and more preferably from about 2 to about 5, particularly about 2.5 to about 4.Less than about 5 o'clock, there was not acid labile substances in preferred water, as polyacrylic acid or polymethylacrylic acid or ester at pH value.

In water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention, water exists with the discontinuous phase that drips shape.

The polyethylene glycol oxide of C4-C22 alcohol-polypropylene oxide ether

Second necessary component in the present composition is non-ionic surface active agent, is selected from polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide ether of C4-C22 alcohol and composition thereof.Non-ionic surface active agent is nursed the solubilizing agent of active matter here as acidic skin in the discontinuous aqueous phase.Polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide the ether of suitable C4-C22 alcohol used herein comprises the chemical compound with following general formula:

Wherein x is about 1 to about 35, is preferably about 1 to about 10; Y is about 1 to about 45, is preferably about 1 to about 30; R is C4-C22 alkyl group or its mixture of straight or branched.In an embodiment preferred, (x+y) more than or equal to 5, be preferably greater than or equal 10, more preferably greater than or equal 15.The ratio of x:y is about 1: 1 to 1: 10.

The example of suitable R group comprises cetyl, butyl, stearyl, cetearyl, decyl, lauryl and myristyl in the following formula.

The example of the polyethylene glycol oxide of appropriate C 4-C22 alcohol-polypropylene oxide ether comprises (using the CTFA name) PPG-4-Ceteth-1, PPG-4-Ceteth-5, PPG-4-Ceteth-10, PPG-4-Ceteth-20, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-8-Ceteth-1, PPG-8-Ceteth-2, PPG-8-Ceteth-5, PPG-8-Ceteth-10, PPG-8-Ceteth-20, PPG-2-Buteth-3, PPG-2-Buteth-5, PPG-5-Buteth-7, PPG-9-Buteth-12, PPG-28-Buteth-35, PPG-12-Buteth-16, PPG-15-Buteth-20, PPG-20-Buteth-30, PPG-24-Buteth-27, PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-33-Buteth-45, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, PPG-4-Ceteareth-12, PPG-10-Ceteareth-20, PPG-2-Deceth-10, PPG-4-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-4, PPG-6-Deceth-9, PPG-8-Deceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-4, PPG-2-Isodeceth-6, PPG-2-Isodeceth-9, PPG-2-Isodeceth-12, PPG-3-Isodeceth-1, PPG-4-Laureth-5, PPG-4-Laureth-2, PPG-4-Laureth-7, PPG-5-Laureth-5, PPG-25-Laureth-25, PPG-3-Myreth-11, PPG-3-Myreth-3 and PPG-9-Steareth-3.

Preferred polyethylene glycol oxide used herein-polypropylene oxide ether is the ether with C8-C16 alcohol of formula I structure, and wherein x is 2 to 12, and y is 10 to 30, and the ratio of x: y is about 1: 2 to about 1: 8.

Here polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide the ether of the especially preferred C4-C22 alcohol that uses is those above-mentioned materials with formula I structure, and wherein R is a cetyl, and x is about 4 to about 8, and y is about 15 to about 25, and the ratio of x: y is about 1: 3 to about 1: 5.From improving the deliquescent angle of acidic skin nursing active matter, especially preferred ether is PPG-5-Ceteth-20, can buy by trade name Procetyl AWS.

Oil phase

The present composition is that the form with water-in-oil emulsion exists.Oil phase can comprise silicone oil, non-silicone oil organic oil or its mixture.

In preferred embodiments, oil phase comprises the mixture of Y 7175 and non-volatile polysiloxanes.Polysiloxanes is used to provide the skin condition performance here.The content of polysiloxane fluid is about 1% to about 50% weight.The Y 7175 that is fit to comprises ring-type and the poly-organopolysiloxane of line style volatility.Here predicate " non-volatile " is meant that its vapour pressure is not higher than the material of 0.1mm Hg under an atmospheric pressure and 25 ℃ of conditions.Here term " volatility " is meant and is not nonvolatile material, or its vapour pressure is higher than the material of 0.1mm Hg under the same conditions.

At people's such as Todd " used for cosmetic Y 7175 fluid ", can find description among the 91 Cosmetics andTioletries 27-32 (1976) about various Y 7175s.

Preferred cyclic polysiloxanes comprises and contains about 9 silicon atoms of average about 3-, preferably contains the ring-type dimethyl siloxane chain of about 4-5 silicon atom.Preferred straight chain polysiloxanes comprises the polydimethylsiloxane that contains about 9 silicon atoms of average about 3-.The straight chain Y 7175 generally has the viscosity less than about 5 centistokes (25 ℃), and the ring-type material has the viscosity less than about 10 centistokes.The example that is applicable to silicone oil of the present invention comprises: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow Corning345 and Dow Corning 200 (being made by Dow Corning Corporation): Silicone 7207 and Silicone7158 (being made by Union Carbide Corporation), SF:202 (being made by General Electric Co. Limited) and SWS-03314 (being made by Stauffer chemical company).

The vapour pressure of non-volatile polysiloxanes as defined above, in the time of 25 ℃, 10 the average viscosities of preferably having an appointment to about 100,000 centipoises, more preferably from about 100 to about 10,000 centipoises, further preferred about 500 average viscosities to about 6000 centipoises.Yet can also use more low viscous fixedness polysiloxanes regulator.Can measure viscosity by means of the glass capillary tube viscometer that the method for testing CTM0004 of Dow Corning Corporation on the 20th provided by July in 1970.

The fixedness polysiloxane fluid that is applicable to this comprises polysiloxanes that poly-alkylsiloxane, poly-aryl siloxanes, polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane, amino-functional replace, polyether siloxane copolymer and composition thereof.Being used for polysiloxanes of the present invention can comprise as methyl, hydroxyl, oxirane, expoxy propane base, amino and carboxyl substituted and/or end-blocking with any amount of structure division, as long as this material still is applicable to the topical cosmetic product.Yet, can use other polyorganosiloxane fluid of skin adjusting function.Operable nonvolatile poly-alkylsiloxane liquid comprises for example polydimethylsiloxane.These polysiloxanes are can be by the Viscasil that obtains as General Electric Co. Limited (RTM) series and Dow Corning 200 series of products that obtained by Dow Corning Corporation.Be preferably about 10 mm at 25 ℃ range of viscosities ²S ^-1To about 100,000mm ²S ^-1Operable polyoxyethylene alkyl aryl radical siloxane liquid also comprises for example PSI.These polysiloxanes are can be by SF1075 aminomethyl phenyl liquid that obtains as General Electric Co. Limited or the 556 cosmetics-stage fluids that obtained by DOW CORNING.Operable polyether siloxane copolymer comprises as a kind of dimethyl polysiloxane of poly(propylene oxide) modification (as DowCorning DC-1248), can also use the mixture of oxirane or oxirane and expoxy propane to carry out described modification.

The document of describing the polyorganosiloxane fluid that is fit to comprises that the patent USA of Green authorized the patent USA 3964500 of Drakoff on June 22nd, 2826551,1976; The patent USA436837 of Pader; Patent GBA 849433 with Woolston.In addition, 1984 " polysiloxane compound " by PetrarchSystems Inc. classification provides the inventory of (but being not whole) on a large scale of the polyorganosiloxane fluid that is fit to.

The preferred nonvolatile polysiloxanes that is applicable to this comprises poly-diorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers, and it contains at least one poly-diorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment.Poly-diorganosiloxane segment has general formula:

R _bThe siloxane unit of SiO (4-b)/2, wherein b is about 0 to about 3 value, each silicon has average about 2 R bases all siloxane units in copolymer, and R is selected from methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl and a kind ofly make described polyoxyalkylene chain paragraph key be incorporated into bilvalent radical on the poly-diorganosiloxane segment.The polyoxyalkylene segment has at least about 500, preferably form to the polyoxyethylene units of about 100% (mole) to the polypropylene oxide unit of about 50% (mole) and about 50 at least about 1000 mean molecule quantity and by about 0, at least one end of described polyoxyalkylene segment is grafted onto or the covalent bond form is bonded on the described poly-diorganosiloxane segment directly or indirectly, and any end that is not bonded to the described polyoxyalkylene segment on the described poly-diorganosiloxane segment all uses a kind of END CAPPED GROUP next saturated; The weight ratio of poly-diorganosiloxane segment and polyoxyalkylene segment is about 2 to about 8 in the described copolymer.This base polymer has been described among the USA4268499.

What be applicable to this is poly dimethyl polysiloxanes-polyoxyalkylene copolymers that following formula is represented:

R wherein ¹Be selected from the C1-C5 alkyl, be preferably methyl; Z is about 1 to 4; The selection of x and y is that to make the weight ratio of poly-diorganosiloxane segment and polyoxyalkylene segment be about 2 to about 8, mol ratio a: (a+b) be about 0.5 to about 1, and R is the chain END CAPPED GROUP, particularly is selected from hydrogen; Hydroxyl; Alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl group, butyl, benzyl; Aryl such as phenyl; Alkoxyl such as methoxyl group, ethyoxyl, propoxyl group, butoxy; Benzyloxy; Aryloxy group such as phenoxy group; Alkenyloxy such as ethyleneoxy and propenyloxy group; Acyloxy such as acetoxyl group, acryloxy and propionyloxy and amino as dimethylamino.

The copolymer that more preferably has the poly-diorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene of following general formula used herein:

Wherein x, y and R are as defined above.

Segmental quantity and mean molecule quantity should make the poly-diorganosiloxane segment in the copolymer and the weight ratio of polyoxyalkylene segment be preferably about 2.5 to about 4.0 in the copolymer.

The copolymer that is fit to is the commercially available Wacker-Chemie company limited that originates from, address Geschaftsbereich S, the commodity of Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 are called the product of Belsil (RTM) and originate from the Th.Goldschmidt company limited, address Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip, Middlesex, the commodity of HA40YL are called the product of Abil (RTM).What be applicable to this particularly preferably is Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183, DC 3225C, DC 5200, Abil We09 and Abil EM90.Here the CTFA name of preferred polysiloxanes is called dimethyl polysiloxane copolymerization polyol.

Compositions of the present invention preferably contains about 1% to about 50% silicone oil phase of composition weight.Silicone oil preferably contain mutually silicone oil phase weight about 0.01% to about non-volatile polysiloxanes of 25%, more preferably about 0.05% to about 10%.Silicone oil preferably contains mutually has an appointment 75% to about 99.99%, more preferably from about 90% to about 99.95% heavy Y 7175.

The oil phase of water-in-oil emulsion of the present invention also can contain one or more non-silicone organic oils, as from mineral, plant, the oil of animal, fat and wax, fatty acid ester, aliphatic alcohol, natural or the artificial oil of selecting in fatty acid and their mixture, these components are used to obtain the softening agent cosmetic properties.Be appreciated that oil phase for example can contain, at most about 25%, preferred at most only 10% oil phase solubility emulsifying agent compositions.Consider that from the angle of decision oil phase amount these components are not considered to oil phase component.

The organic oil that is applicable to this for example comprises, the C that optional hydroxyl replaces ₈-C ₅₀Unsaturated fatty acid and ester thereof, C ₈-C ₃₀The C of satisfied fatty acid ₁-C ₂₄Ester such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate and Wickenol 142 (Wickenol142), Cera Flava, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohol such as the pure and mild spermol of docosane, hydrocarbon such as mineral oil, vaseline and squalane, fat dehydration Pyrusussuriensis sugar ester is (referring to the US-A-3988255 that authorized on October 26th, 1976, Seiden,), lanoline and lanolin derivative, triglyceride of animal and vegetable such as almond oil, Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen, wheat germ oil, Semen Lini oil, simmondsia belongs to oil, japanese plum seed oil, Oleum Juglandis, the Petiolus Trachycarpi fruit oil, pistachio nut oil, Oleum sesami, Oleum Brassicae campestris, cade oil, Semen Maydis oil, peach kernel oil, poppy seed oil, Oleum Pini, Oleum Ricini, Oleum Glycines, American Avocado Tree oil, safflower oil, Oleum Cocois, hazelnut oil, olive oil, Oleum Vitis viniferae, Adeps Bovis seu Bubali resin, the C of sal fat and Oleum Helianthi and dimerization and trimer acid ₁-C ₂₄Ester, as the dimeric dibasic acid diisopropyl ester, malic acid two iso stearyl esters, dimeric dibasic acid two different stearyl esters, trimer acid three different stearyl esters.In the said components, it is highly preferred that mineral oil, vaseline, unsaturated fatty acid and ester thereof and their mixture.

Non-essential component

Except polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide alcohol ether, the present composition also can comprise solubilizing agent in addition.Here the other solubilizing agent of Shi Yonging is selected from the solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine, and HLB is preferably greater than about 18 non-ionic surface active agent and its mixture based on Polyethylene Glycol greater than about 15.The preferred content of other here solubilizing agent be composition weight about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, especially about 0.5% to about 2%.

Here the solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine of Shi Yonging comprises polyvinyl pyrrolidone or C1-C4 alkyl polyvinyl pyrrolidone, its molecular weight (all sticking) about 1,500 to about 1,500,000, preferred about 3,000 to about 700,000, more preferably from about 5,000 to about 100,000.Suitable example based on the solubilizing agent of ketopyrrolidine is polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP) (or claiming povidone) and butylation polyvinyl pyrrolidone.Here most preferred solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine is a polyvinyl pyrrolidone.PYP can be commercial with Luviskol (RTM) trade name from BASF Corp.Here preferred PVP solubilizing agent is the Luviskol K17 of viscosity-average molecular weight about 9,000.Other is applicable to that this solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine comprises C1-C18 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl ketopyrrolidine, as the lauryl ketopyrrolidine.

Content based on the solubilizing agent of ketopyrrolidine in the said composition is about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 5%, especially about 0.5% to about 2% of composition weight.The acidic skin care active component is about 10: 1 to about 1: 10 with weight ratio based on the solubilizing agent of ketopyrrolidine, preferred about 5: 1 to about 1: 5.

Also comprise about 0.01% to about 5% heavy auxiliary acid or its salt in the preferred embodiment of the invention, this acid or salt are less than or equal to water soluble under the situation of pKa value of respective acids (as citric acid, boric acid) and salt and its mixture at pH value.From helping the dissolved angle of acidic skin care active component, it is useful that these materials are used in combination with complexant based on ketopyrrolidine.From this viewpoint, particularly preferably be the sodium salt of citric acid.In preferred embodiments, the dissolubility of acid or its salt is at least 5% weight by weight (25 ℃).

Here embodiment preferred comprises the mixture of a kind of colorant or colorant.A feature of the present composition is that colorant and anti-acne activating agent have excellent overall compatibility and colour stability.Here the colorant of Shi Yonging can be organic and/or inorganic.The term colorant also comprises low color or glossy material, as unglazed dressing agent and light scattering agent.The example of the colorant that is fit to has iron oxides, rutile titanium dioxide, anatase titania, ferrum oxide, ferrous oxide, chromium oxide, chromic oxide gel, manganese violet, acyl glutamic acid iron oxides, ultramarine blue, D ﹠amp; C dyestuff, carmine and composition thereof.The type that depends on cosmetic composition, foundation cream or kermes in this way, the coloring material for mixing thing can be used usually.

Foundation compositions also can comprise at least a unglazed dressing agent.The effect of unglazed dressing agent is to cover skin defect and reduce light.As Silicon stone beadlet, Muscovitum, Talcum, polyethylene that Silicon stone, hydration Silicon stone, siloxane treated are crossed, titanium dioxide, bentonite, hectorite, Kaolin, Chalk, kieselguhr, attapulgite zinc oxide etc. can use the inorganic reagent that allows in these class cosmetics (promptly be included in the third edition " CTFA used for cosmetic composition dictionary " those).Useful especially unglazed dressing agent is the low gloss colorant, and as phthalandione Muscovitum (with the Muscovitum of titanium dioxide parcel), it is wrapped up by barium sulfate again.Be used as in the inorganic component of unglazed dressing agent, low gloss colorant, Talcum, polyethylene, hydration silicon close, Kaolin, titanium dioxide and composition thereof are especially preferred.Here the material as scattering diluent of Shi Yonging also can be described to the inorganic spherical material, and it is to have about at the most 100 microns, and preferred about 5 to about 50 microns particle diameter, as the spherical silica grain.

The example of other colorant comprises the color lake of organic toner, as FD﹠amp; Red No. 7 calcium color lakes of C and FD﹠amp; The yellow No. 5 aluminum color lakes of C, D﹠amp; Red No. 9 barium color lakes of C and D﹠amp; Red No. 30 of C.

Consider that from the angle of humidification, skin feel, skin appearance and the emulsion compatibility preferred colorant used herein is treated colorant.Can use such as the chemical compound of aminoacid as lysine, polysiloxanes, lauroyl, collagen protein, polyethylene, lecithin and ester oil and handle colorant.Most preferred colorant is the colorant that polysiloxanes is handled.

The colorant that highly preferred colorant used herein is wrapped up by the organosilicon component, the organosilicon component is selected from poly-organopolysiloxane or silane, wherein the potential hydrogen content of Bao Guo colorant is that every gram occlusion pigment is lower than about 2.0, preferably be lower than about 1.0, more preferably less than about 0.5, especially be lower than about 0.1mlH ₂The colorant that is preferred for here is a particle form.Colorant is introduced in the oil-continuous phase in this compositions.The integument that uses can pass through covalent bond, physical absorption or adhesive attraction, and preferably covalent bond is bonded to the colorant surface.Here the function of integument is hydrophobic modified to colorant, make it in the emulsion of polysiloxanes Bao Shui continuous silicone mutually in for " wettable ".Also can adopt occlusion pigment here from the angle that reduces hydrogen burst size and improvement product stability.

Do not wish bound by theory,, can enter oil phase by the emulsion interface from the hydrion of water although think that colorant is present in the oil phase of water-in-oil emulsion, there they can with the reaction of colorant integument, for example produce hydrogen.But, be lower than about 2ml H by using potential hydrogen content ₂The colorant of the organosilicon parcel of/g occlusion pigment can reduce the hydrogen growing amount.

Here use the potential hydrogen content of following test determines occlusion pigment:

The occlusion pigment dispersion that will contain the colorant of 20g parcel places the flask of magnetic stirring, and the alcoholic solution of 100ml 2% potassium hydroxide is at room temperature added, and stirs simultaneously.The hydrogen of emitting is collected in second flask of (25 ℃, 1 atmospheric pressure) under ambient temperature and the pressure.Can measure the hydrogen volume of release like this.

Many kinds of organosilicon components can be used for handling the colorant here.Here the poly-organopolysiloxane of Shi Yonging is selected from:

(A) material of following formula:

(R ¹) ₃SiO-(Si (R ²R ³) O) _p-Si (R ²R ³) OA ₂Wherein P is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, A ₂Be hydrogen or C ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl, R ¹Be C ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl, preferable methyl, R ²And R ³Be selected from C separately ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl and phenyl, preferably R wherein ²And R ³All be methyl, or R wherein ²Be methyl and R ³Be phenyl; Or

(B) material of following formula:

(R ¹) ₃SiO (Si (R ²) (H)-O) i-Si (R ¹) ₃Wherein i is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, wherein R ¹And R ²Definition in the cotype (A).

In preferred embodiments, the organosilicon component is selected from silane.Silane can be selected from the material of following formula:

(C) A ₁SiX ₁X ₂X ₃Wherein A is C ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl, X ₁, X ₂And X ₃C respectively does for oneself ₁-C ₄Alkoxyl, preferred methoxy or ethoxy, or halogen, preferred chlorine.

When the colorant here during, obtained the colorant of following formula (1) with the silane treatment of above-mentioned formula (C):

P-O-Si (OH) (A)-[O-Si (OH) (A)-] 0-100-OH wherein P be the atom on colorant surface, each A is the alkyl or the alkenyl of 30 carbon atoms at the most.Except the polysiloxane chain that stretches out from the colorant surface, the polysiloxane chain shown in a large amount of adjacent formulas (1) can by oxygen atom crosslinked be formed up to many 100 repetitions-Si (OP)-the unitary polysiloxane chain of O-along the stretching, extension of colorant surface.The example of the alkyl of linearity or branching has methyl, ethyl, propyl group, butyl, amyl group, hexyl, heptyl, octyl group etc. until octadecyl." alkenyl " comprises the carbochain with one or more pair key; The example of this class group comprises the residue of vinyl, acrylic, acryloyl group, methyl propionyl acidic group and unsaturated fatty acid, as oleic acid residue (C ₁₇-C ₃₃-), linoleic acid residue (C ₁₇-H ₃₁)-and linolenic acid residue (C ₁₇H ₂₉-).

When the colorant is here handled with the poly-organopolysiloxane of formula (A), obtained the colorant of following formula (2):

P-O-(Si (R ²R ³) O) _p-Si (R ¹) ₃(2) wherein P is 1-1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, R ¹, R ²And R ³Suc as formula definition in (A), P is the atom on colorant surface.

When the colorant is here handled with the poly-organopolysiloxane of following formula (B), obtained the colorant of following formula (3):

(R ¹) ₃SiO-[Si (R ²) (OP)-O-] _p-Si (R ¹) ₃(3) wherein each P is the atom on colorant surface, and p is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, R ¹And R ²As definition in the following formula (B), wherein each at the most the unitary chain of 100 repetitions (Si-O) be connected to the colorant surface by oxygen atom.

By colorant (or mixture of two or more colorants) being become dry and finely divided form, and add organosilicon component and mixing in mixer, colorant is wrapped.Organosilicon integument preferred content be organosilicon occlusion pigment weight about 0.01% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 4%, especially about 0.5% to about 2%.

From reducing the angle of hydrogen burst size and raising product stability, most preferred occlusion pigment is Cardre 70429.

The total concentration of occlusion pigment can be composition total weight about 0.1 to about 25%, preferred about 1 to about 15%, more preferably from about 8% to about 12%, concrete concentration depends in a way and is used for foundation cream or kermes to reach the special color material mixture of required tone.Preferred compositions contains about 2% to about 20% heavy titanium dioxide, most preferably from about 5% to about 10% heavy titanium dioxide.

The highly preferred composition of the compositions here is wetting agent or wetting agent mixture.Wetting agent here or wetting agent mixture be about 30% with the heavy about 0.1%-of compositions, preferably about 1%-25%, the amount that is more preferably about 1%-about 10% exist.The wetting agent that is fit to is selected from glycerol and has 300 at 25 degrees centigrade, 000-1,100, the polymethyl acid glyceride lubricant of the combined water of the proportion of the viscosity of 000m centipoise, 1-1.2g/ml (25 degrees centigrade), pH, the 33-58% of 5.0-5.5 and the free water yield of 5-20%.

Wetting agent to small part can be sneaked in the oil phase of water-in-oil emulsion.Based on compositions, oil phase preferably contains has an appointment 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably 0.1% wetting agent to about 3% (weight).Wetting agent can add in the oil phase with the form with a kind of graininess oleophylic or hydrophobic carrier mixtures of material.

Polymethyl acid glyceride wetting agent with desired properties is that the trade mark that Guardian chemical company produces is the product of " Lubrajel "." Lubrajel " series products that is labeled as " Lubrajel DV ", " LubrajelMS " and " Lubrajel CG " is that institute is preferred among the present invention.The gellant of selling with these trade marks contains 1% propylene glycol of having an appointment.

Other wetting agent that is fit to comprises sorbitol, panthenol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butanediol, hexanediol, oxyalkylated glucosan derivative, as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, glucose ether, and composition thereof.

The panthenol humidizer can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2; 4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-amide dimethyl butyrate), DL-panthenol, calcium pantothenate, royal jelly, pantethine (panthetine), pantetheine, pantoyl benzyl ethyl ether, pangamic acid, pyridoxin, pantoyl lactose and vitamin B complex.

Here preferred humectants is a glycerol.The chemical name of glycerol is 1,2, the 3-glycerol, and it is a commercial product.

Here the compositions preferred ingredients is the polyol ester skin conditioning agent except organic amphiphilic surfactant.

Compositions of the present invention preferably comprises about 0.01% to about 20%, and more preferably from about 0.1% to about 15%, especially preferred about 1% to about 10% heavy polyol ester.Level of polyol ester be preferably oil content weight in the compositions about 1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 5% to about 20%.

Here the preferred polyol ester that uses is the liquid or liquable polyol carboxylate of non-occlusive.This polyol ester is derived with one or more hydroxy-acid groups or part by a kind of polyhydric alcohol group or part.In other words, these esters comprise a part and an one or more part of being come by carboxylic acid derivatives of being come by polyol derivative.These carboxylates also can come from carboxylic acid derivatives.These carboxylates also can be described to liquid fat acid polyol resin, because for the expert of those technical fields, term carboxylic acid and fatty acid normally can exchange use.

The preferred liquid polyol polyester that uses contains certain polyhydric alcohol among the present invention, particularly by the sugar of at least four fatty acid group esterifications or sugar alcohol.Correspondingly, but the polyhydric alcohol raw material must have the hydroxyl of at least four esterifications.The example of preferred polyhydric alcohols is a sugar, comprises monosaccharide and disaccharidase and sugar alcohol.The example that contains the monosaccharide of four hydroxyls is xylose and arabinose, and the sugar alcohol that five hydroxyls are arranged of being derived and by xylose, i.e. xylitol.The monosaccharide erythrose is unsuitable for the present invention and uses, because it only contains 3 hydroxyls, but the sugar alcohol that contains four hydroxyls of deriving and from erythrose, promptly erithritol can use.The suitable monosaccharide that contains five hydroxyls is galactose, fructose and sorbose.The sugar alcohol that contains 6 hydroxyls from sucrose and glucose and sorbose hydrolyzate are derived and as sorbitol, also is well suited for.The example of available disaccharidase polyhydric alcohol comprises maltose, lactose and sucrose, and all these is the disaccharidase polyhydric alcohol that contains eight hydroxyls.

The polyhydric alcohol that is used for preparing the polyester that uses in the present invention preferably is selected from erithritol, xylitol, sorbitol, dextrose plus saccharose.Particularly preferably be sucrose.

Polyhydric alcohol raw material with at least four hydroxyls is to have at least four hydroxyls to be contained about 8 ester fat acid esterizations to about 22 carbon atoms.That the example of this class fatty acid comprises is sad, decanol, lauric acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, Palmic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, castor oil acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, eleostearic acid, arachidic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid.These fatty acids can be derived by natural or synthetic fatty acid, and they are saturable or undersaturated, comprise position isomer and geometric isomer.But for the preferred herein liquid polyester that uses is provided, the about at least 50% heavy fatty acid that adds in the polyester molecule should be undersaturated, and oleic acid, linoleic acid and composition thereof are particularly preferred.

The fatty polyol polyester that can use in the present invention must comprise at least four fatty acid ester group.Though all hydroxyls of polyhydric alcohol needn't be by fatty acid esterification, preferably polyester comprises and is no more than two nonesterified hydroxyls.Most preferably, all hydroxyls of polyhydric alcohol are all by fatty acid esterification, and promptly polyol moiety is esterified substantially fully.The fatty acid of esterification polyol molecule can be identical or blended, but as above-mentioned, have a considerable amount of unsaturated acids ester groups to exist to guarantee that this polyester is a liquid form.

For above-mentioned viewpoint is described, sucrose fat three esters are not suitable for this, because it does not contain four required fatty acid ester group.Sucrose-fatty four esters are fit to, but are not preferred, because it has the hydroxyl more than two esterification.Sucrose-fatty six esters are preferred, because it has no more than two nonesterified hydroxyl.All hydroxyls are comprised the substituted fatty acid octaester of liquid sucrose in the highly preferred molecule by fatty acid-esterified chemical compound.

Below be to be applicable to the non-limitative example that contains the concrete fatty polyol polyester of at least four fatty acid ester group of the present invention: four oleic acid glucose esters, the glucose tetra-ester of soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid (unsaturation), mannose four esters of mixed soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid, oleic galactose four esters, linoleic arabinose four esters, four linoleic acid xylose esters, five oleic acid gala sugar esters, four oleic acid sorbitol esters, sorbitol six esters of undersaturated soy(a)-bean oil fatty acid, the five oleic acid esters of xylitol, four oleic acid sucrose ester, five oleic acid sucrose ester, six oleic acid sucrose ester, seven oleic acid sucrose ester, eight oleic acid sucrose ester, and composition thereof.

As noted above, highly preferred polyol fatty acid ester be those wherein fatty acid contain the ester of about 14 to 18 carbon atoms.

Here the complete fusing point of preferred liquid polyol polyester is lower than about 30 ℃, preferably is lower than about 27.5 ℃, and more preferably is lower than about 25 ℃.Here Bao Dao complete fusing point is to be recorded by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC).

Be fit to that the fatty polyol polyester can be by prepared in various methods as used herein, these methods are thoroughly cookedly to know to those experts in this technical field.These methods comprise: the transesterification of carrying out with polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid methyl ester, ethyl ester or the glyceride of various catalysts; The acylation that polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid acyl chlorides carry out; The acylation that polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid anhydride carry out; The acylation that polyhydric alcohol and fatty acid carry out itself.See and licensed to the U.S.P.No.2 of Jandacek, 831,854 on January 25th, 1977; With the U.S.P.No.4 that licensed to Jandacek on January 25th, 1977,005,196.

Cosmetic composition of the present invention also can contain crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate of a kind of graininess or methacrylate copolymer.This copolymer is used in particular for reducing light and the control oiliness helps to provide effective humidification benefit simultaneously.Crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is preferably copolymer point formation, and it has homodisperse and is trapped in the interior at least a active component of copolymer dot matrix.Alternative plan is that hydrophobic polymer can adopt porous particle shape, its surface area (N ₂-BET) about 50 to 500m ²/ g, preferred 100 to 300m ²/ g scope and absorption active component is within it arranged.

Crosslinked hydrophobic polymer amount is for about 0.1% to about 10% (weight) during use, and preferably described polymer sneaked in the outer oil phase that contains polysiloxanes.One or more or its mixture in wetting agent, softening agent, humidizer and the sunscreen that active component can be the oil that is fit to skin, be fit to skin.Polymer masses is a powder-type, and described powder is particulate mixed system.The powder particle system forms dot matrix, and this dot matrix comprises the gathering groups of average diameter less than the aggregation and the fused aggregation system of average diameter in about 200 to 1200 micrometer ranges of about 1 micron unit grain, the fused unit grain of average diameter in about 20 to 100 micrometer ranges.

The powder material of the present invention that can be used as the carrier of active component can broadly be described as crosslinked " absorbing the back " hydrophobic polymer dot matrix.Preferably wrapped up and be dispersed with the active component of a kind of solid, liquid or gas form in this powder.Dot matrix is granule shape and constitutes free-pouring dispersed solids granule when the carrying active material.This dot matrix can contain the active material of scheduled volume.The polymer architecture formula is as follows: Wherein X is 80: 20 with the ratio of Y, and R ' is-CH ₂CH ₂-and R " be-(CH ₂) ₁₁CH ₃

Hydrophobic polymer is highly cross-linked polymer, particularly highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer.(USA) make and sell with trade mark POLYTRAP (RTM) by Midland, close supporting root by Dow Corning Corporation for this material.It is that a kind of ultralight free-flow white lead is last and this granule can absorb a large amount of lipophile liquids and some water seeking liquid keeps the free flowing powder characteristic simultaneously.Mealy structure is made up of the dot matrix less than 1 micron unit grain, and described unit grain is melt into 20 to 100 microns aggregation and this aggregation loosely and is gathered into and is of a size of about 200 to about 1200 microns bulky grain or gathering groups.This polymer powder can contain nearly its heavy 4 times liquid, emulsion, dispersion or fused solid.

Can utilize a rustless steel mixing container and a spoon to realize that active substance is adsorbed onto on the polymer powder, wherein active substance be added in the powder and active substance is called in the polymer powder lightly with spoon.Low viscous liquid can be by adding this liquid in the sealable container that fills this polymer and this material that rolls is absorbed till reaching evenly.Also can use more complicated mixing apparatus such as ribbon blender or double cone mixer.The preferred active component that is applicable to this is a glycerol.The gentle dose of weight ratio with carrier is about 1: 4 to about 3: 1.

Microsponges 5647 also is suitable as highly cross-linked polymethacrylate copolymer.Its adopts the spheric crosslinked hydrophobic polymer particle type that is generally, its aperture be 0.01 to about 0.05 μ m and surface area be 200-300m ²/ g.And it preferably is loaded with the wetting agent of above-mentioned amount.

Compositions of the present invention also can contain hydrophilic gellant, and described gelling dosage is preferably about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.02% to about 2%, and particularly 0.02% to about 0.5%.Gellant preferably has at least about 4000mPaS, more preferably at least about 10, and 000mPaS and particularly at least 50, the viscosity of 000mPaS (1% aqueous solution, 20 ℃, Brookfield RVT).

The hydrophilic gelling agent that is fit to generally can be described as water-soluble or the molten polymer of glue controlling the water circulation, and comprises cellulose ether (for example hydroxyethyl-cellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl emthylcellulose), polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum and xanthan gum.

Acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate and the carboxy vinyl polymer sold with trade mark Carbopol resin by B.F.Goodrich company belong to suitable hydrophilic gelling agent.These resins mainly are made up of the water-soluble crosslinked acrylate copolymer of polyalkenyl polyethers of colloid, and described cross linked polymer is crosslinked as polyene propyl group sucrose or polyene propyl group tetramethylolmethane with the cross-linking agent of 0.75%-2.00%.Example comprises Carbopol 934, and Carbopol 940, and Carbopol 950, and Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981.Carbopol 934 is with the crosslinked acrylic acid water-soluble polymer of about 1% polyene propyl group sucrose ether, and described sucrose ether has on average about 5.8 pi-allyls of each sucrose molecule.Be applicable to this crosslinked acrylate copolymer that also has hydrophobically modified, described polymer has amphipathic, and (CTFA is by name: Acrylates/10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer) sell with trade name Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 for it.The mixture of the crosslinked acrylate copolymer of acrylate copolymer that the polyalkenyl polyethers is crosslinked and hydrophobically modified is also applicable to this.Other is applicable to that this gellant is oily gellant, as trihydroxy stearin and hydroxy stearic acid magnalium.The gellant here is particularly conducive to provides the fabulous room temperature and the stability of intensification.

The nertralizer that contains the acidic-group of the hydrophilic gelling agent here that is suitable for neutralizing comprises sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

The cosmetic composition here can contain softening agent in addition.The softening agent that is fit to compositions of the present invention comprises natural and synthetic oils, and described grease separation is from mineral oil, vegetable oil and animal oil, fat and cured, fatty acid ester, aliphatic alcohol, aklylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and ester, fatty acid and composition thereof.

The softening agent that is applicable to this comprises C8-C50 unsaturated fatty acid and the ester thereof that for example nonessential hydroxyl replaces; the C1-C24 ester such as the isopropyl myristate of C8-C30 satisfied fatty acid; the hexadecylic acid cetyl ester; with dodecyl tetradecylic acid octyl group ester (Wickenol 142); Cera Flava; saturated and undersaturated aliphatic alcohol such as docosanol and hexadecanol; hydrocarbon such as mineral oil; oil and isotriacontane; fat Isosorbide Dinitrate (authorizing the United States Patent (USP) 3988255 of Seiden referring on October 26th, 1976); lanoline and lanolin derivative such as lanolin alcohol; ethoxylation; hydroxylated and acetylizad lanoline; cholesterol and derivant thereof, animal and plant triglyceride such as almond oil; Oleum Arachidis hypogaeae semen; wheat germ oil; Semen Lini oil; simmondsia oil; Apricot kernel oil; walnut oil; palm kernel oil; pistachio nut oil; Oleum sesami; rapeseed oil; cade oil; Semen Maydis oil; Semen Persicae oil; poppy seed oil; Oleum Pini; Oleum Ricini; Oleum Glycines; American Avocado Tree oil; safflower oil; Oleum Cocois; hazelnut oil; olive oil; Semen Vitis viniferae oil and sunflower seed oil; and the C1-C24 ester of dimeric dibasic acid and trimer acid such as dimeric dibasic acid diisopropyl ester; two different stearic malates; two different stearic dimeric dibasic acid esters and three different stearic trimerization acid esters.

Preferred softening agent is selected from hydro carbons such as 2-Methylpentadecane, mineral oil, vaseline and isotriacontane, lanolin alcohol and stearyl alcohol.These softening agents can use separately or use and about 1% amount to about 30% (weight) that can the compositions gross weight is present in the compositions of the present invention with form of mixtures, preferably with the about 5% amount existence to about 15% (weight).

Compositions also can contain other material on demand, as spice, sunscreen, preservative agent, electrolyte, as sodium chloride, protein, antioxidant, chelating agen and water-in-oil emulsifier.

The another kind of nonessential composition of cosmetic composition is one or more ultraviolet absorbers.The ultraviolet absorber that often is called sunscreen can exist based on the concentration of compositions gross weight about 1% to about 12% (weight).Ultraviolet absorber preferably accounts for about 2% to about 8% (weight).Ultraviolet absorber more preferably can about 4% concentration to about 6% (weight) be present in the compositions.Be applicable in this ultraviolet absorber preferred especially benzophenone-3, octyldimethyl PABA (Padimate O), Parsol MCX and composition thereof.

Here a kind of nonessential still preferred composition is one or more other chelating agen.Chelating agen is preferably to be present in the compositions based on compositions gross weight about 0.02% concentration to about 0.10% (weight).Chelating agen is preferably to exist based on the concentration of compositions gross weight about 0.03% to about 0.07% (weight).Can be comprised in one of chelating agen in the compositions is tetrasodium ethylenediamine tetraacetate.

The another kind of nonessential still preferred composition of cosmetic composition is one or more preservative agents.Based on the compositions gross weight, preservative agent concentration is about 0.05% to about 0.8% (weight) in the background color compositions, and preferred about 0.1% to about 0.3% (weight).The preservative agent that is applicable to this comprises sodium benzoate and propyl p-hydroxybenzoate and composition thereof.

All the other compositions of compositions of the present invention are deionized water.Said composition preferably contains the 20%-that has an appointment oil phase about 95%, more preferably from about 30%-about 70% (weight) and about 5% to about 80%, more preferably from about 30% to about 70% heavy water.

Forms such as cosmetic composition of the present invention can foundation cream, kermes, covering agent, moulding powder are preferably with the form of foundation cream and covering agent.

Following table has illustrated the embodiment of cosmetic composition of the present invention.

	Ⅰ/％	Ⅱ/％	Ⅲ/％	Ⅳ/％	Ⅴ/％	Ⅵ％
							A
SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 [DC 21330] 1	?15.2	?16.0	?14.8	?15.3	?15.7	????18.8
							SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330/dimethicone polyol [90: 10] [DC3225C] 1	?15.0	?10.0	?18.5	?15.2	?17.25	????8.0
SEFA?Cottonate 2	2.0	?4.0	?0.0	?0.0	?0.0	????0.0
							Microsponge 1	3.0	?0.5	?0.75	?0.75	?1.0	????0.0
B
							Muscovitum	0.1	?0.15	?0.1	?0.12	?0.1	????0.0
Titanium dioxide (Cardre 70429) 3	8.25	?6.0	?14.2	?7.85	?8.5	????8.5
							Zinc oxide	0.4	?6.0	?0.0	?2.0	?0.0	????4.0
C
							DryFlow 1	0.0	?2.5	?0.0	?2.0	?1.5	????3.5
D
							Iron oxide yellow	0.55	?0.6	?0.49	?2.0	?0.58	????2.1
Iron oxide red	0.3	?2.0	?0.28	?0.24	?0.4	????0.9
							Iron black	0.1	?0.08	?0.05	?0.12	?0.15	????0.6
E
							Durachem 8	?0.1	?0.1	?0.0	?0.1	?0.1	????0.0
Waxenol 9	?0.3	?0.0	?0.3	?0.3	?0.3	????0.0

Last table is continuous

	Ⅰ/％	Ⅱ/％	Ⅲ/％	Ⅳ/％	Ⅴ/％	Ⅵ％
							F
SILIBIONE OIL 70047 V20 DC-21330 DC21330 [DC 21330] 1	1	?1.5	???1	?1.2	?1	????0.0
							Thixin?R 4	0.3	?0.3	?0.3	?0.3	?0.3	????0.0
Propyl p-hydroxybenzoate	0.0	?0.2	?0.1	?0.15	?0.0	????0.0
							G
Brassylic acid second diester	0.1	?0.0	?0.1	?0.0	?0.1	????0.1
							The rose water concentrated solution	0.0	?0.0	?0.0	?0.0	?0.0	????0.001
H
							Ethanol	4	?0	?2	?0	?5	????4
Polyvinyl pyrrolidone [Luviskol K 17] 5	1	?1.8	?0.8	?1.5	?1.2	????1.0
							Salicylic acid	0.2	?2	?1.5	?1	?1	????0.5
Dipropylene glycol	0	?12	?11	?0	?11	????0
							Glycerol	6	?10	?9.5	?12.5	?3	????5.0
Carbowax?400(PEG?8) 6	0.3	?0.5	?18	?0	?0	????0
							Procetyl?AWS 7	3.0	?5.0	?0.5	?3.0	?3.0	????3.0
Glycyrrhizic acid	0	?0	?0.1	?0.5	?0	????0
							Ⅰ
Deionized water	To 100
							Na 4?EDTA	0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1	?0.1	????0.1
Sodium citrate	0.3	?0.25	?0.25	?0.32	?0.3	????1.0
							Sodium chloride	0.3	?0.3	?0.3	?0.3	?0.3	????0.3
Citric acid	1.0	?0	?0.5	?0	?1.0	????0
							Methyl parahydroxybenzoate	0.2	?0	?0.1	?0.05	?0	????0
J
							Zinc oxide	0	?0.4	?0	??0	?0	????0.45

1. Dow Corning Corporation's supply, Avco House South, supply 3.Cardre company of Castle S2. P﹠G supplies 4. trihydroxy tristerins, NL Chemicals supply, Wycoff Milse Road, Highstown, the supply of NJ 085205. BASF Corp, Earl Road, Cheadle Hulme, Cheadle, Cheshire, the supply of SK86QB6. Union Carbide Corporation, 39 Old Ridgebury Road, the supply of Danbury7.Croda Chemicals company limited, Cowick Hall, Snaith, Goole, NorthHumberside, DN149AA8.Rose Chemicals supply 9.Aston Chemicals supply, Weltech Centre, Ridgeway, Welwyn Garden City, Herts AL 72AA

Be prepared as follows the prescription of routine I to VI.The various components of listing in the table have been divided into several groups, and according to follow procedure, the component in every group mixed earlier before being added to other group component.

The first step is mixed stir about 15 minutes until evenly by shear-mixed with each component of A phase.Mix by high speed shear, B phase material is added among the A gradually, and batch of material was mixed 30 minutes.Add the C phase, about 15 minutes of the gained mixture of milling.

Add the D phase component then, and the gained mixture of milling is until disperseing fully.

In batch of material, add waxiness E phase then, under agitation batch of material is heated to 85 ℃, under agitation be cooled to 50 ℃ then until the wax fusing.In batch of material, add F phase pre-composition then, and homogenized 10 minutes.Stir down batch of material is cooled to room temperature.In batch of material, add the G phase, and batch of material was homogenized 10 minutes.

Be prepared as follows water.Mix the I phase component until dissolving.H mutually in each component except that ethanol under high speed shear, mix until dissolving.Cooling H phase also adds ethanol.Agitating solution is until clarification.With the phase I join H mutually in and mix, under agitation add phase J subsequently.

At last water is slowly added in the oil phase, under stirring at low speed, homogenize simultaneously.After all waters have added, to batch of material in addition about 5 minutes of high shear force to increase the viscosity of final products.

The cosmetic composition of gained can have been packed.

Cosmetic composition among the embodiment has embodied anti-acne effectiveness, improved products stability and improved salicylic acid dissolubility.

Claims (34)

1. the cosmetic composition of a water-in-oil emulsion form, it comprises:

(a) successive oil phase and;

(b) discontinuous water, it comprises:

(ⅰ) water

(ⅱ) acidic skin that is insoluble to described water is nursed active matter; With

(ⅲ) non-ionic surface active agent is selected from polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide ether of C4-C22 alcohol and composition thereof.

2. the cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein non-ionic surface active agent is selected from the polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide ether of C4-C22 alcohol, and it has following general formula:

Wherein x is about 1 to about 35, is preferably about 1 to about 10; Y is about 1 to about 45, is preferably about 1 to about 30; R is C4-C22 alkyl group or its mixture of straight or branched.

3. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 1 or 2, wherein non-ionic surface active agent is selected from the polyethylene glycol oxide-polypropylene oxide ether of spermol.

4. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 3, wherein the pH value of water is about 6 or lower, is preferably about 1 to about 5.5, more preferably about 2 to about 5, especially is about 2.5 to about 4.

5. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 4, wherein acidic skin nursing active matter is selected from salicylic acid, Azelaic Acid, tretinoin, lactic acid, glycolic, acetone acid and composition thereof.

6. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 5, wherein acidic skin nursing active matter is a salicylic acid.

7. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 6, said composition comprises about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 3% heavy acidic skin nursing active matter.

8. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 7, said composition comprises about 0.1% to about 15%, preferred about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5% heavy non-ionic surface active agent.

9. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 8, said composition also comprises about 0.1% to about 30%, preferred about 0.1% in addition to about 25%, more preferably from about 1% to about 15% heavy colorant.

10. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 9, wherein colorant is selected from the colorant that is wrapped up by the organosilicon component, organosilicon is selected from poly-organopolysiloxane or silane, or its mixture, and wherein the remaining hydride amount of occlusion pigment is measured as with potential hydrogen content and is lower than about 2.0mlH ₂/ g occlusion pigment.

11. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 10, the described poly-organopolysiloxane that wherein is used for described colorant is selected from

(A) material of following formula:

(R ¹) ₃SiO-(Si (R ²R ³) O) p-Si (R ²R ³) OA ₂Wherein p is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, A ₂Be hydrogen or C ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl, R ¹Be C ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl, preferable methyl, R ²And R ³Be selected from C separately ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl and phenyl, preferably R wherein ²And R ³All be methyl, or R wherein ²Be methyl and R ³Be phenyl; Or

(B) material of following formula:

(R ¹) ₃SiO (Si (R ²) (H)-O) i-Si (R ¹) ₃Wherein i is 1 to 1000, and is preferred 1 to 100, wherein R ¹And R ²Definition in the cotype (A).

12. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 10, wherein silane is selected from the material of following formula:

(C)

A ₁SiX ₁X ₂X ₃Wherein A is C ₁-C ₃₀Alkyl or alkenyl, X ₁, X ₂And X ₃C respectively does for oneself ₁-C ₄Alkoxyl, preferred methoxy or ethoxy, or halogen, preferred chlorine.

13. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 10 to 12, wherein colorant chosen from Fe oxide and titanium dioxide and composition thereof.

14. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 13, said composition also contains in addition has an appointment 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 2% is heavy based on the solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine.

15. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 14, wherein the solubilizing agent based on ketopyrrolidine is a polyvinyl pyrrolidone.

16. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 1 to 15, said composition also contains 0.01% to about 5% heavy citric acid or its salt of having an appointment in addition.

17. according to each skin care compositions and methods in the claim 1 to 16, said composition contains the liquid polyol carboxylate that accounts for composition weight about 0.01% to about 20%, this ester has polyol moiety and at least 4 carboxylic moiety, wherein polyol moiety is selected from sugar or the sugar alcohol with about 4 to 8 hydroxyls, wherein each carboxylic moiety has about 8 to 22 carbon atoms, and the complete fusing point of wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate is lower than about 30 ℃.

18. according to the compositions of claim 17, wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate contains no more than about 2 free hydroxyl.

19. according to the compositions of claim 17 or 18, wherein said carboxylic moiety contains has an appointment 14 to about 18 carbon atoms.

20. according to each compositions in the claim 17 to 19, wherein said polyol moiety is selected from erithritol, xylitol, sorbitol, glucose, sucrose and composition thereof.

21. according to each compositions in the claim 17 to 20, wherein said polyol moiety is a sucrose.

22. according to each compositions in the claim 17 to 21, the complete fusing point of wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate is lower than about 27.5 ℃.

23. according to each compositions in the claim 17 to 22, the complete fusing point of wherein said liquid polyol carboxylic acid polyester is lower than about 25 ℃.

24. according to each compositions in the claim 17 to 23, wherein said liquid polyol carboxylate is selected from five oleic acid sucrose ester, six oleic acid sucrose ester, seven oleic acid sucrose ester, eight oleic acid sucrose ester, and composition thereof.

25. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 10 to 13, wherein the content of residual hydride in the occlusion pigment characterizes with potential hydrogen, is lower than approximately 1.0, more preferably less than about 0.5, especially is lower than about 0.1ml H ₂/ g occlusion pigment.

26. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 25, wherein the pH value of water is about 1 to about 5.5, preferred about 2 to about 5, especially is about 2.5 to about 4.

27. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 26, comprise about 1% to about 50% heavy volatile silicone oils, be selected from Y 7175, non-volatile polysiloxanes and composition thereof.

28. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 27, wherein volatile silicone oils be selected from 25 ℃ of viscosity less than the poly-organopolysiloxane of the ring-type of about 10 centistokes, 25 ℃ of viscosity less than poly-organopolysiloxane of straight chain of about 5 centistokes and composition thereof.

29. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 28, wherein volatile silicone oils is selected from and contains average about 3 to about 9, preferred about 4 to the annular dimethyl polysiloxane of about 5 silicon atoms and contain the average about 3 straight chain polydimethylsiloxane to about 9 silicon atoms.

30. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 29, wherein poly-diorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers is the dimethicone polyol.

31. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 30, said composition comprises about 0.1% in addition to about 30%, preferred about 1% to about 10% heavy wetting agent.

32. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 31, wherein wetting agent is a glycerol.

33. according to the cosmetic composition of claim 27, said composition comprises about 0.1% to about 10%, preferred about 2% to about 5% heavy non-volatile polysiloxanes.

34. according to each cosmetic composition in the claim 1 to 33, said composition comprises about 20% to about 95%, preferred about 30% to about 70% heavy oil phase and about 5% to about 80%, preferred about 30% to about 70% heavy water.