CN117442537A

CN117442537A - Anti-wrinkle essence

Info

Publication number: CN117442537A
Application number: CN202210840131.5A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 周建萍; 舒鹏
Original assignee: Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co ltd
Current assignee: Shenzhen Hujia Technology Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-07-18
Filing date: 2022-07-18
Publication date: 2024-01-26

Abstract

The invention provides a cosmetic composition, an anti-wrinkle essence, comprising: an oil phase and an aqueous phase containing a polyol; the weight part of the polyol in the water phase is not less than 10%; a soothing component configured as bisabolol, madecassoside, inositol glycerophosphate choline salt, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, elaeagnus pungens extract, oxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, ginger root extract, shea butter extract, ringer (CARDIOSPERMUM HALICACABUM) flower/leaf/vine extract, and combinations thereof. The active ingredients for inhibiting inflammatory mediators are matched to have more excellent inhibition effect on the irritation caused by the polyalcohol.

Description

Anti-wrinkle essence

Technical Field

The invention relates to the field of anti-wrinkle formulas, in particular to anti-wrinkle essence.

Background

Many of the existing essence on the market are added with peptide in the formula to improve the anti-wrinkle effect of the product. The peptides comprise multiple types, and different types of peptides play a role in resisting wrinkle through different mechanisms, so that most of essences are products matched by the multiple peptides.

Through observation and research by the inventor, the following defects exist in the prior art:

the peptide raw material added into the essence can generate a stimulating sensation when the raw material is high, and the skin feel is poor. It was found that this is due to excessive polyols in the formulation. Firstly, some of the polyol is added to the formulation of most products as a solvent, and secondly, the addition of the peptide material inevitably brings the polyol into the formulation, especially at higher amounts of peptide material. This results in a very high polyol ratio in the higher peptide containing concentrate.

Typically, not too much polyol is added to the cosmetic formulation. Because the polyalcohol has stronger water absorption, the polyalcohol can provide the skin with the functions of water locking and moisture retention. However, when the amount of the polyhydric alcohol added is too high, not only a sticky moist feeling is brought, but also the polyhydric alcohol with too high concentration can generate irritation, and the moisture absorption of the polyhydric alcohol is too good, so that the water content of the skin cuticle can be directly absorbed from the skin, and the skin barrier is damaged.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to solve the technical problems:

how to reduce irritation caused by high levels of polyols.

The technical means for solving the technical problems are as follows:

the invention provides a cosmetic composition, which is characterized by comprising the following components:

a cosmetic composition comprising:

an oil phase and an aqueous phase containing a polyol;

the weight part of the polyol in the water phase is not less than 10%;

a soothing component configured as bisabolol, madecassoside, inositol glycerophosphate choline salt, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, elaeagnus pungens extract, oxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, ginger root extract, shea butter extract, ringer (CARDIOSPERMUM HALICACABUM) flower/leaf/vine extract, and combinations thereof.

Optionally, the soothing component is configured as 0.005 to 0.5% madecassoside by weight.

Optionally, the soothing component is configured as 0.05 to 0.3% madecassoside by weight.

Alternatively, the polyol is configured to be 10 to 20% by weight.

Optionally, the polyol is configured to be 15-20% by weight.

Optionally, the oil phase is configured to be 5-25% by weight.

The polyalcohol such as glycerin has stronger water absorption as a humectant and has the effect of locking water and keeping moisture for skin, but the polyalcohol can bring sticky moist feel, and the content of the polyalcohol added into the cosmetics is not high. When the weight part of the oil is adjusted to be 5-25%, the oil film feel caused by the oil can be reduced, and the oil can be balanced with a large amount of polyol in the formula in skin feel, so that the oil can be used favorably.

Optionally, the oil phase is configured to be 5-15% by weight.

The invention also provides an external skin preparation using any of the cosmetic compositions.

The beneficial effects are that:

in response to the problem of irritation in products containing high levels of peptides, the inventors found that this is due to the excessive levels of polyols, and have unexpectedly found during the course of the study: compared with other soothing components, the active component for inhibiting inflammatory mediators has more effective stimulation inhibition on the stimulation source of the polyol, and particularly has good stimulation inhibition effect when the content of the polyol is high.

The inventors have also found that, in the case of a product containing a high content of peptide, too much polyol causes a problem of sticky skin feel in addition to the irritation, and have found that the problem of sticky skin feel caused by polyol can be improved when the weight part of oil in the product is controlled to be in the range of 5 to 25%.

The invention adds various peptides, and the total content of peptides is very high, which not only ensures the obvious anti-wrinkle effect, but also effectively solves the problem of irritation and skin feel in the high peptide product, improves the anti-wrinkle effect and overcomes the defects of the existing product.

Detailed Description

For the purpose of making the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the embodiments of the present invention more clear, the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present invention will be clearly and completely described below, and it is obvious that the described embodiments are not all embodiments.

Elements and features described in one embodiment of the invention may be combined with elements and features shown in one or more other embodiments. It should be noted that the illustration and description of components and processes known to those of ordinary skill in the art, which are not relevant to the present invention, have been omitted for clarity.

Definition:

herein, the term "not higher than" means: including cases of less than and equal to.

Herein, the term "not lower" means: including greater than and equal to.

In this context, all parts by weight herein are based on the total weight of the composition of the invention, unless otherwise indicated.

In this context, all ranges defined refer to: including each specific range within a given range as well as combinations of sub-ranges between the given ranges. For example, a range of 1 to 5 specifically includes 1,2, 3, 4 and 5, and also includes sub-ranges such as 2 to 5, 3 to 5, 2 to 3, 2 to 4, 1 to 4, etc.

In this context, the range of ratios refers to: including each specific ratio within a given range and combinations of sub-ranges between the given ranges.

The invention is that

a cosmetic composition comprising:

an oil phase and an aqueous phase containing a polyol;

the weight part of the polyol in the water phase is not less than 10%;

Alternatively, the polyol is configured to be 10 to 20% by weight.

Optionally, the polyol is configured to be 15-20% by weight.

Optionally, the oil phase is configured to be 5-25% by weight.

Optionally, the oil phase is configured to be 5-15% by weight.

The invention also provides an external skin preparation using any of the cosmetic compositions. The external preparation comprises toner, eye cream, nourishing cream, massage cream, face cleansing foam, face cleansing water, skin lotion, skin cream, body essence, shampoo, hair conditioner, bath lotion, essence or facial mask or other external skin preparations.

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may include/may include the following:

polyhydric alcohol

Optionally, the polyol is not more than 20% by weight.

Optionally, the polyol is 10-20% by weight.

The invention is not limited in any way by the specific kind of polyol, and can be reasonably selected according to practical situations when the invention is implemented.

Optionally, the polyol includes 1, 2-hexanediol, glycerol, and 1, 2-pentanediol, and combinations thereof.

Optionally, the polyol comprises: 0.8% of 1, 2-hexanediol, 2% of 1, 2-pentanediol and glycerin.

Soothing component

Optionally, the weight portion of the relieving component is 0.005-0.5%.

Optionally, the weight portion of the relieving component is 0.05 to 0.3 percent.

The soothing component is an active component for inhibiting inflammatory mediators.

The invention does not limit the specific kind of the active ingredients for inhibiting inflammatory mediators, and can be routinely selected according to practical situations when the invention is implemented.

Optionally, the soothing component comprises bisabolol, madecassoside, inositol glycerophosphate choline salt, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, elaeagnus pungens extract, oxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, ginger root extract, shea butter extract, ringer (CARDIOSPERMUM HALICACABUM) flower/leaf/vine extract, and combinations thereof.

In one embodiment, the soothing component is configured to be 0.105% madecassoside by weight.

Oil content

Optionally, the oil content is 5-25% by weight.

In one embodiment, the oil content is 6% by weight.

The invention does not limit the specific types of oil content, and can be reasonably selected according to actual conditions when the invention is implemented.

In one embodiment, the oil comprises coco-caprylate/caprate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, isononyl isononanoate, avocado (PERSEA GRATISSIMA) oil, squalane, monkey (ADANSONIA DIGITATA) seed oil, berm hard walnut (SCLEROCARYA BIRREA) seed oil, and combinations thereof.

In one embodiment, the oil comprises 2% coco-caprylate/caprate, 2% caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1% white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 1% isononyl isononanoate, by weight.

Preservative agent

Optionally, the preservative is 0.01-3% by weight.

The invention does not limit the specific type of preservative, and can be reasonably selected according to actual conditions when the invention is implemented.

In one embodiment, the preservative comprises 0.4% hydroxyacetophenone by weight.

Thickening agent

Optionally, the weight portion of the thickener is 0.005-2%.

The invention does not limit the specific kind of the thickener, and can be reasonably selected according to actual conditions when the invention is implemented.

Optionally, the thickener comprises xanthan gum, polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, carbomer, ammonium polyacryldimethyltaurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/behenate polyether-25 methacrylate crosslinked polymer, sodium acrylate copolymer, and combinations thereof.

Alternatively, the thickener comprises 0.05% by weight of xanthan gum, 0.2% of polyacrylate crosslinked polymer-6 and 0.05% of hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.

Film forming agent

Optionally, the film forming agent accounts for 0.005-2% by weight.

The invention does not limit the specific types of the film forming agents, and the film forming agents can be reasonably selected according to actual conditions when the invention is implemented.

Optionally, the film former comprises a sclerotium (SCLEROTIUM ROLFSSII) gum, an acrylic/C10-30 alkanol acrylate cross-linked polymer, a castor oil/IPDI copolymer, and combinations thereof.

Optionally, the film former comprises 0.03% by weight castor oil/IPDI copolymer.

PH regulator

Optionally, the weight portion of the pH regulator is 0.001-2%.

The invention does not limit the specific kind of the pH regulator, and can be reasonably selected according to actual conditions when the invention is implemented.

Optionally, the pH adjuster includes citric acid and sodium citrate.

Optionally, the pH adjuster is 0.25% by weight.

Optionally, the pH adjuster comprises 0.2% citric acid and 0.05% sodium citrate by weight.

Peptides

Optionally, the peptide is 5-35% by weight.

The invention is not limited in any way by the specific kind of peptide, and can be reasonably selected according to practical situations when the invention is implemented.

Alternatively, the peptide is selected from the group consisting of dipeptidyl diamino Ding Xianbian amide diacetate, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, acetyl octapeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, acetyl pentapeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, acetyl hexapeptide-3, acetyl hexapeptide-1, and combinations thereof.

Alternatively, the peptide is 20% by weight.

Alternatively, the peptides include, in parts by weight, 5% dipeptide diamino Ding Xianbian base amid diacetate, 2% palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7 and palmitoyl tripeptide-1, 3% acetyl octapeptide-3 and 10% palmitoyl tripeptide-5.

Active material

Optionally, the active is 0.01-10% by weight.

The invention does not limit the specific kind of the active substance, and the active substance can be reasonably selected according to the actual situation when the invention is implemented.

Optionally, the active is selected from arbutin, 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ergothioneine, ectoine, sodium hyaluronate, retinol and its derivatives, plant extracts, licoflavone compounds, and combinations thereof. .

Alternatively, the active is 2.2% by weight.

The preparation method of the invention

The preparation method of the cosmetic composition comprises the following steps:

adding solvent, preservative and thickener into main pot, heating and homogenizing for 10-30 min at 70-85 deg.C, cooling and stirring to 50 deg.C, adding pH regulator and pre-mixed active matter, continuously stirring for several min until uniformity, sequentially adding polypeptide components, continuously stirring for several min until uniformity, completely mixing oil, adding into main pot, continuously stirring for 3-10 min, cooling to 35 min, defoaming and filtering, and discharging.

Example 1

Experimental examples 1 to 2 and comparative examples 1 to 2 were set. The difference is that:

experimental example 1 includes: about 5% polyol, 0.105% madecassoside by weight.

Comparative example 1 includes: about 5% polyol, 0.105% 4-t-butylcyclohexanol in parts by weight.

Comparative example 2 includes: about 5% polyol, by weight, without soothing ingredients.

Experimental example 2 includes: about 15% polyol, 0.105% madecassoside by weight.

Comparative example 3 includes: about 15% by weight of polyol, 4-t-butylcyclohexanol.

Comparative example 4 includes: about 15% polyol, by weight, without soothing ingredients.

The specific formulations of experimental example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 2 are shown in table 1, and the specific formulations of experimental example 2 and comparative examples 3 to 4 are shown in table 2.

TABLE 1

TABLE 2

30 subjects are selected, the ages are 24-52 years, and the selected area is not more than 50mm ² A suitable test device with a depth of about 1mm is prepared by adding a test object into the test device in a closed patch test method in a dosage of 0.020-0.025 ml (g), applying the test device to the back of a subject, removing the test object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions after 0.5, 24 and 48 hours respectively, and recording the results according to the skin reaction grading standard in cosmetic safety technical specification 2015 not less than, wherein the skin reaction grading standard of the skin patch test is shown in Table 3, and the test results are shown in tables 4-9.

TABLE 3 Table 3

TABLE 4 Table 4

TABLE 5

TABLE 6

TABLE 7

TABLE 8

TABLE 9

As can be seen from the results of tables 4 to 9, in example 1 and comparative examples 1 and 2, the content of the polyol is small, and both example 1 and comparative example 1 can effectively suppress the generation of the stimulus response except for comparative example 2 having no relaxing ingredient. While only example 2 still performed better when the amount of polyol was increased (due to the increased peptide content), different numbers of stimulus responders appeared in the subjects to which comparative example 3 and comparative example 4 were administered.

The results show that the known soothing ingredients are effective in suppressing irritation and that the madecassoside has a better soothing effect when the amount of polyol is greater, given the lower amount of polyol in the formulation.

Example 2

Experimental example 3 and comparative example 5 were set up, with the difference that:

experimental example 3 includes about 5% by weight of polyol, 25% by weight of oil, 4% by weight of coco-caprylate/caprate, 8% by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6% by weight of white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 7% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

Comparative example 5 includes about 5% polyol by weight, 30% oil by weight, 6% coco-caprylate/caprate by weight, 8% caprylic/capric triglyceride by weight, 7% white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, 9% isononyl isononanoate by weight.

The specific formulations of experimental example 3 and comparative example 5 are shown in table 10.

Table 10

Experimental example 3 and comparative example 5 were applied to subjects, respectively, and subjects were allowed to evaluate some skin feel dimension of the product after using the product. The number of subjects was 60.

Evaluation index: a score of 1 is "very unsatisfactory"; 2 is divided into "acceptable"; 3 is classified as "more satisfactory"; 4 is classified as "very satisfactory".

The evaluation results of experimental example 3 are shown in table 11, and the evaluation results of comparative example 5 are shown in table 12.

TABLE 11

Table 12

After selecting 33 subjects, a proper amount of the products of example 3 and comparative example 5 were applied to the face, and the moisture content of the skin horny layer was measured by a skin moisture tester, and the measurement results are shown in Table 13.

TABLE 13

	Experimental example 3	Comparative example 5
			Basic value (mean)	45.7	43.5
After 28 days of application (mean value)	55.9	53.2
			Difference value	10.2	9.7

From the results in tables 11 to 13, it can be seen that the evaluation of the test subjects was equivalent to that of the test example 3 and the comparative example 5 in the formulation having a polyol content of 5%. The water content data of the horny layer of each of the experimental example 3 and the comparative example 5 was about 10.

Therefore, when the content of the polyhydric alcohol is low, the effect of adjusting the water-oil ratio is not significant for the skin feel and the adjustment of the water content of the horny layer.

Example 3

Experimental example 4 and comparative example 6 were set. The difference is that:

experimental example 4 includes about 15 parts by weight of polyol, 25% by weight of oil, 4% by weight of coco-caprylate/caprate, 8% by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 6% by weight of white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 7% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

Comparative example 6 included about 15 parts by weight of polyol, 30% by weight of oil, 6% coco-caprylate/caprate, 8% caprylic/capric triglyceride, 7% white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, 9% isononyl isononanoate, by weight.

The specific formulations of experimental example 4 and comparative example 6 are shown in table 14.

TABLE 14

Subject skin feel questionnaires were conducted and stratum corneum water content data were collected for experimental example 4 and comparative example 6 according to the method described in example 2, and the detection results are shown in tables 15 to 17.

TABLE 15

Table 16

TABLE 17

	Experimental example 4	Comparative example 6
			Basic value	34.8	38.7
After 28 days of using the product	64.2	47.5
			Difference value	29.4	8.8

From the results in tables 15 to 17, it can be seen that. When the formulation contains about 15% by weight of the polyol, the subject can obviously feel differences in terms of ductility, sticky feel, moist feel, etc. of the product when adjusting the water-to-oil ratio, specifically, when the oil content in the formulation is respectively configured to 25% and 30% (i.e., experimental example 4 and comparative example 6).

Therefore, when the weight part of the polyol in the formula is higher, the skin feel of the product can be effectively regulated by adjusting the water-oil ratio, and the water content of the horny layer is influenced.

Example 4

Experimental examples 5 to 7 and comparative example 7 were set. The difference is that:

comparative example 7 included about 15 parts by weight of polyol, 1% by weight of oil, and 1% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

Experimental example 5 includes about 15 parts by weight of polyol, 6% by weight of oil, 2% by weight of coco-caprylate/caprate, 2% by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 1% by weight of white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 1% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

Experimental example 6 includes about 15 parts by weight of polyol, 10% by weight of oil, 3% by weight of coco-caprylate/caprate, 3% by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 2% by weight of white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 2% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

Experimental example 7 includes about 15 parts by weight of polyol, 15% by weight of oil, 3% by weight of coco-caprylate/caprate, 5% by weight of caprylic/capric triglyceride, 4% by weight of white pool (LIMNANTHES ALBA) seed oil, and 3% by weight of isononyl isononanoate.

The specific components are shown in Table 18.

TABLE 18

To further determine the minimum amount of oil added, example 4 will set the proportions of oil to 1%, 6%, 10%, 15%, respectively, and the statistical results are shown in tables 19 to 23. Test examples 5 to 7 and comparative example 7 were subjected to a subject skin touch survey and stratum corneum water content data were collected according to the method described in example 2, and the test results are shown in tables 19 to 23.

TABLE 19

Table 20

Table 21

Table 22

Table 23

	Comparative example 7	Experimental example 5	Experimental example 6	Experimental example 7
					Basic value	37.9	35.7	33.5	30.5
After 28 days of using the product	42.5	67.9	68.8	69.4
					Difference value	4.6	32.2	35.3	38.9

As can be seen from the results in tables 19 to 23, the skin feel evaluation of the subjects, particularly the extensibility, the sticky feel and the moist feel, was very satisfactory when the oil content in the formulation was 6 to 25%. The skin feel evaluation was good, the improvement in the results of the water content of the horny layer was very remarkable, and the oil content was too low in comparative example 7 (Table 22), so that both the skin feel and the water content were not good.

The examples in which the oil content was 6%, 10% and 15% showed better moisture content in the skin stratum corneum than the examples in which the oil content was 25%. The less the oil content by weight, the more moist the product, the stronger the ability to help the skin retain water.

All other embodiments, which can be made by a person skilled in the art based on the embodiments of the invention without any inventive effort, are intended to fall within the scope of the invention.

Modifications of the technical solutions described in the above embodiments or equivalent substitutions of some technical features thereof may be made by those skilled in the art; these modifications or substitutions do not depart from the essence of the corresponding technical solutions from the protection scope of the technical solutions of the embodiments of the present disclosure.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition comprising:

an oil phase and an aqueous phase containing a polyol;

the weight part of the polyol in the water phase is not less than 10%;

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said soothing component is configured as 0.005-0.5% by weight of madecassoside.

3. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said soothing ingredient is configured as 0.05-0.3% by weight of madecassoside.

4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol is present in an amount of 10 to 20% by weight.

5. The composition of claim 1, wherein the polyol is configured to be 15-20% by weight.

6. The composition of claim 1, wherein the oil phase is configured to be 5-25% by weight.

7. The composition of claim 1, wherein the oil phase is configured to be 5-15% by weight.

8. A skin preparation for external use, characterized by comprising the composition according to claims 1 to 7.