CN115400067A - Skin whitening composition - Google Patents
Skin whitening composition Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN115400067A CN115400067A CN202211206137.3A CN202211206137A CN115400067A CN 115400067 A CN115400067 A CN 115400067A CN 202211206137 A CN202211206137 A CN 202211206137A CN 115400067 A CN115400067 A CN 115400067A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- whitening
- skin
- acid
- whitening composition
- composition
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Pending
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- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 191
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 106
- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N hydroquinone O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 39
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 31
- 239000000284 extract Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 29
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 26
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- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N p-hydroxyphenyl beta-D-alloside Natural products OC1C(O)C(O)C(CO)OC1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 19
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- AFSDNFLWKVMVRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ellagic acid Chemical group OC1=C(O)C(OC2=O)=C3C4=C2C=C(O)C(O)=C4OC(=O)C3=C1 AFSDNFLWKVMVRB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 12
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- 239000003906 humectant Substances 0.000 claims description 6
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- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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Classifications
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
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- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/817—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
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- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
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- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
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Abstract
Disclosed is a whitening composition for skin. The whitening composition comprises the following components: whitening active substance comprising Galla chinensis extract, glycyrrhizinic acid or its liposoluble derivatives, arbutin or folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae extract, and Olea europaea leaf extract; a whitening compound comprising a composition of ellagic acid and nicotinamide; an antioxidant; exfoliating material; a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine comprising polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 for encapsulating the whitening active and the whitening compound. The polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 wraps the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds, can effectively protect the activities of the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds, has excellent intersolubility with cell membranes, and can enable the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds to better reach cells, so that tyrosinase is inhibited, and whitening is promoted.
Description
Technical Field
The application belongs to the technical field of daily cosmetics, and particularly relates to a whitening composition for skin.
Background
The skin is easily irradiated with ultraviolet rays, thereby causing skin damage. Melanin (Melanin) is mainly produced by melanocytes (melanocytes) in the basal layer of the epidermis of human skin, and it reduces the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin. The content and distribution of melanin determine the color of the skin. In the prior art, in order to prevent skin from becoming black, spots, freckles, etc., and to maintain the original whiteness of the skin, whitening cosmetics containing various whitening agents such as hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, etc., have been proposed. However, if these substances are mixed in a large amount, problems may occur in the sense of use and safety. Such as hydroquinone, is very irritating to the skin; kojic acid is easy to discolor and has certain irritation to skin; the whitening cosmetic has the advantages of high concentration, high irritation, low transdermal absorption efficiency and unobvious whitening effect.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the present application provides a whitening composition for skin, aiming at solving the problems of skin inflammation and allergy.
In a first aspect, the present application provides a whitening composition for skin, comprising the following components:
whitening active substances including Galla chinensis extract, glycyrrhizinic acid or its liposoluble derivatives, arbutin or folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae extract, and Olea europaea leaf extract;
a whitening compound comprising a composition of ellagic acid and nicotinamide;
an antioxidant;
exfoliating material;
a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine comprising polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 for encapsulating the whitening active and the whitening compound.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, a whitening composition comprises the following components in mass percent:
0.04-30% of whitening active substance;
0.11-30% of whitening compound;
0.1% -30% of antioxidant;
0.1-5% of exfoliating substances;
the balance being a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine.
According to an aspect of the present application, the whitening composition comprises 0.01-10% of galla chinensis extract.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the whitening composition comprises 0.01-10% glycyrrhetinic acid or its fat-soluble derivatives.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the whitening composition includes 0.01% -5% arbutin or arbutin leaf extract.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the whitening composition comprises 0.01% -5% olive leaf extract.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the whitening composition comprises 0.01% -20% ellagic acid.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the whitening composition comprises 0.1% -10% niacinamide.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the antioxidant is selected from 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbic acid or combinations thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the exfoliating substance is selected from hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, azelaic acid, salicylic acid, lactobionic acid or combinations thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the whitening composition further comprises an additional organic encapsulating agent selected from lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, chitosan, hydroxyethyl chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl chitosan, cyclodextrin, maltodextrin, gum arabic or a combination thereof. .
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the whitening composition further comprises a solvent selected from organic alcohols, water, vegetable fats and oils, or a combination thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the vegetable fat is selected from jojoba oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grape seed oil, shea butter, meadowfoam seed oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, palm oil, squalane, cocoa butter, jojoba fat, glycolipids, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco-caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleic/linoleic/linolenic polyglyceryl esters and dioctyldodecanol dimer linoleate or combinations thereof;
according to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the organic alcohol is selected from the group consisting of methyl propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, ethyl hexyl glycerol, or combinations thereof.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the whitening composition further comprises at least one of a humectant, a thickener, an emulsifier, a neutralizer and a preservative.
According to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the humectant is selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, octylene glycol, and sodium hyaluronate, or a combination thereof;
according to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the thickener is selected from carbomers, acrylic acid cross-linked polymers with C10-C30 alkanol acrylates, xanthan gum or combinations thereof;
according to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the vegetable emulsifier is selected from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl 2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl 6-polyricinoleate, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate and sucrose cocoate or combinations thereof;
according to an embodiment of one aspect of the present application, the neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or a combination thereof;
according to an embodiment of one aspect of the application, the preservative is selected from phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-anisic acid, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, or a combination thereof.
Compared with the prior art, the application has at least the following beneficial effects:
according to the skin whitening composition, the Chinese gall extract, the glycyrrhetinic acid or the fat-soluble derivatives thereof, the arbutin-containing composition and the olive leaf extract can be used for realizing synergistic interaction, inhibiting the proliferation of skin melanocytes and reducing the generation amount of the melanocytes; compared with the existing combination of any Chinese gall extract, glycyrrhetinic acid or fat-soluble derivatives thereof and arbutin-containing composition matched with other extracts, the concentration of the composition can be lower, and the composition has better whitening effect; the whitening compound can be used together with whitening active substances to improve the whitening effect; the exfoliating substance can make the whitening compound and the whitening active substance act on the skin more effectively, and inhibit melanocyte and tyrosinase; the antioxidant can prevent sebum and the like on the surface of the skin from being oxidized, and the whitening effect is achieved together; the polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 wraps the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds, can effectively protect the activities of the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds, has excellent intersolubility with cell membranes, can enable the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds to better act on cells, achieves the effects of inhibiting tyrosinase and the like, and thus promotes whitening.
Detailed Description
In order to make the application purpose, technical solution and beneficial technical effects of the present application clearer, the present application is further described in detail with reference to the following embodiments. It should be understood that the embodiments described in this specification are only for the purpose of explaining the present application and are not intended to limit the present application.
For the sake of brevity, only some numerical ranges are explicitly disclosed herein. However, any lower limit may be combined with any upper limit to form ranges not explicitly recited; and any lower limit may be combined with any other lower limit to form a range not explicitly recited, and any upper limit may be combined with any other upper limit to form a range not explicitly recited. Also, although not explicitly recited, each point or individual numerical value between the endpoints of a range is encompassed within that range. Thus, each point or individual value can form a range not explicitly recited as its own lower or upper limit in combination with any other point or individual value or in combination with other lower or upper limits.
In the description of the present application, it is to be noted that, unless otherwise specified, "above" and "below" are inclusive of the present number, and "plural" of "one or more" means two or more.
The above summary of the present application is not intended to describe each disclosed embodiment or every implementation of the present application. The following description more particularly exemplifies illustrative embodiments. At various points throughout this application, guidance is provided through a list of embodiments that can be used in various combinations. In each instance, the list is merely a representative group and should not be construed as exhaustive.
It is a desire of many people who love beauty to have fair skin, but with the gradual increase of living standard, various skin problems such as dark yellow skin, dryness and oxidative aging of skin appear.
At present, whitening products on the market can be simply classified into artificially synthesized products and plant extracted products according to sources. The synthetic ingredients are generally low in cost and have the defect of relatively single effect; the natural ingredients extracted from plants are relatively safe, and have the defects that the whitening effect is not ideal enough, and the natural ingredients are difficult to be effectively absorbed by skin, so that the whitening effect is influenced.
The inventor researches that the skin whitening and skin care can be realized from the following ways: (1) Reducing the number of melanocytes produced by inhibiting the proliferation of skin melanocytes; (2) The biosynthesis of melanin is reduced by inhibiting the catalytic activity of tyrosinase, a key enzyme for skin melanin generation, so that the purpose of whitening is achieved; (3) Through sun protection, the damage of ultraviolet rays in sunlight to the skin (sunburn and sunburn) is prevented, and skin aging is slowed down; (4) Is prepared by removing oxygen free radicals from skin, reducing melanogenesis and reducing skin aging by using antioxidant.
Through further research of the inventor, the inventor finds that the lipid polymer of phosphorylcholine wraps the whitening active substance and the whitening compound, so that the effect of the phosphorylcholine on skin can be improved, and whitening is enhanced; in addition, the gallnut extract, the glycyrrhetinic acid or the fat-soluble derivatives thereof, the arbutin-containing composition and the olive leaf extract can be synergistic, inhibit the catalytic activity of tyrosinase, which is a key enzyme for inhibiting the proliferation of skin melanocytes and the generation of skin melanin, and can also achieve the sunscreen effect by combining with ellagic acid and nicotinamide.
Skin whitening composition
In one aspect, the embodiment of the present application provides a whitening composition for skin, comprising the following components:
whitening active substances including Galla chinensis extract, glycyrrhizinic acid or its liposoluble derivatives, arbutin or folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae extract, and Olea europaea leaf extract;
a whitening compound comprising a composition of ellagic acid and nicotinamide;
an antioxidant;
exfoliating material;
a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine comprising polyquaternium-51 for encapsulating the whitening active substance and the whitening-like compound.
According to the embodiment of the application, the Chinese gall extract, the glycyrrhetinic acid or the fat-soluble derivatives thereof, the arbutin-containing composition and the olive leaf extract can be used for realizing synergistic effect, inhibiting the proliferation of skin melanocytes and reducing the generation amount of the melanocytes; compared with the existing combination of any Chinese gall extract, glycyrrhetinic acid or fat-soluble derivatives thereof and arbutin-containing composition matched with other extracts, the addition concentration of the composition can be lower, and the composition has better whitening effect; the whitening compound can be used together with whitening active substances to improve the whitening effect; the exfoliating substance can make the whitening compound and the whitening active substance act on the skin more effectively and inhibit melanocytes and tyrosinase; the antioxidant can prevent sebum and the like on the surface of the skin from being oxidized, and the whitening effect is achieved together; the polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 can wrap whitening active substances and whitening compounds, can effectively protect the activities of the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds, has excellent intersolubility with cell membranes, can enable the whitening active substances and the whitening compounds to better act on cells, and achieves the effects of inhibiting tyrosinase and the like and promoting whitening.
The polyquaternium-51 has very similar components and characteristics with human cell membranes, has super-strong moisturizing function, and has the following whitening mechanism:
1. the polyquaternium-51 can form nano micelles with cell membrane-like structures, encapsulate various nutrients which are difficult to pass through skin barriers, such as whitening active substances, nuclear whitening compounds, enhance the permeability of the active ingredients to the skin cuticle, prevent the oxidative deterioration of various active factors such as vitamin C, vitamin E, amino acid and superoxide dismutase (SOD), achieve deep and durable skin care, strengthen the nutrition of the skin, improve the skin and enhance the whitening effect.
2. The polyquaternium-51 can form a stable hydrated gel film on the surface of skin, and a second protective and water-retaining barrier is formed on the skin's own epidermal barrier, so that the skin is kept moist and elastic, and the skin is lightened to be dark yellow and dry, thereby improving the whitening effect.
3. The polyquaternium-51 can relieve the irritation of a surfactant, the surfactant is an important component in cleaning cosmetics used by people in daily life, and the surfactant can also cause certain irritation to the skin while removing dirt on the surface of the skin, weaken the natural protective barrier of the skin and cause the dry and crumbly skin. The simulated cell membrane structure of the polyquaternium-51 can alleviate and inhibit the stimulation of the surfactant to the skin, recover the activity of the surface cells of the skin, effectively repair the damaged protective barrier and enable the skin to be always bright and moist. The whitening composition for skin has high efficiency of skin permeation; is mild and non-irritating; the whitening way of the skin is various; raw materials and whitening composition are easy to store.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition for skin is in a liquid state, and the polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 may act as a surfactant or emulsifier to facilitate dissolution of other components in the solvent.
In some embodiments, where the anti-inflammatory and soothing composition for skin is in a solid state, the polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 may be deposited, coated or otherwise attached to at least a portion of the surface of the particles of the other component to facilitate penetration and interaction of the other component with the skin during use.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition comprises the following components in mass percent:
0.04-30% of whitening active substance;
0.11-30% of whitening compound;
0.1% -30% of antioxidant;
0.1-5% of exfoliating substances;
the balance being a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine.
According to the embodiment of the application, the lipid polymer of the whitening active substance, the whitening compound, the antioxidant, the exfoliating substance and the balance of phosphorylcholine has more excellent whitening and skin-care effects in the mass ratio; the whitening composition has high cooperativity and systematicness, so that the synergistic effect can be achieved. In addition, with the action of antioxidant, oxygen free radicals in skin are removed, melanogenesis is slowed down, and skin aging is slowed down.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition comprises 0.01-10% of gallnut extract.
According to the embodiment of the application, the gallnut (GALLA RHOIS) extract has an astringent effect and an antibacterial effect, the gallnut contains tannic acid and has the function of precipitating protein, and after the ulcer surface and the mucous membrane of the skin are contacted with the gallnut, tissue protein is coagulated to form a protective film, so that the gallnut has an astringent effect, and the effects of resisting inflammation, lightening spots and whitening can be achieved.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition comprises 0.01-10% glycyrrhetinic acid or its lipid soluble derivatives.
In some embodiments, the glycyrrhetinic acid or lipid soluble derivative thereof is selected from glycyrrhetinic acid, stearyl glycyrrhetinate. Glycyrrhetinic acid or its fat-soluble derivatives have antiinflammatory, antiallergic, and bacteria reproduction inhibiting effects, and can be used in cosmetics for regulating skin immunity, enhancing skin disease resistance, whitening skin, eliminating inflammation, preventing allergy, and cleaning skin.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition comprises 0.01% -5% arbutin or bearberry leaf extract.
According to the embodiment of the present application, arbutin or arbutin leaf extract may contain arbutin, which may be selected from alpha-arbutin, or other arbutins (such as beta-arbutin), and alpha-arbutin is safer and more stable. Alpha-arbutin is often used as a whitening functional component in the cosmetic industry to inhibit the activity of the neuraminidase, however, alpha-arbutin has poor permeability and insufficient whitening effect, and is often used in combination with other components, such as a lipid polymer of phosphorylcholine, to promote the permeability of alpha-arbutin, so that the whitening effect is better achieved.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition comprises 0.01% -5% olive leaf extract.
According to the embodiment of the application, the olive leaf extract has a very strong activation effect on macrophage activity, one effect of the macrophages in the cortex is to phagocytize melanin, so that the olive leaf extract has a whitening effect on the skin, and the olive leaf extract has strong antioxidant and antibacterial properties in combination with the inhibition of the activity of B-16 melanocyte, and can be used for whitening cosmetics.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition comprises 0.01% -20% ellagic acid.
According to the embodiment of the application, ellagic acid (Ellagic acid) is a polyphenol dilactone, is a dimeric derivative of gallic acid, is a natural polyphenol component, has a scavenging effect on oxygen free radicals and hydroxyl groups, has higher capacity of scavenging the free radicals than sesamol, olive leaf extract, xanthophyll, proanthocyanidin and other antioxidants, and can achieve the effects of whitening, freckle lightening, oxidation resistance and brightening.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition comprises 0.1% -10% niacinamide.
According to the embodiment of the present application, the amount of nicotinamide added is 0.1% to 10%, preferably 0.5% to 8%, more preferably 0.5% to 7%, even more preferably 1% to 6%, and even more preferably 2% to 5% by mass of the whitening composition. If the addition amount of nicotinamide is less than 0.1%, the exfoliation of melanin-containing keratinocytes cannot be promoted, and the transfer of melanin to epidermal cells cannot be reduced; if the amount of nicotinamide added is more than 20%, not only the exfoliation of melanin keratinocytes is not further increased, but also the stability of the product is affected.
The whitening mechanism of niacinamide in the present document mainly embodies the following aspects: 1. nicotinamide can act on melanin already produced, reducing its transfer to the surface cells. Since only melanin is transferred to keratinocytes, it darkens the skin. Nicotinamide can act on the generated melanin, and effectively inhibits the transfer of 35 to 40 percent of the melanin from melanocytes to keratinocytes, thereby reducing pigmentation.
2. Nicotinamide can accelerate metabolism and promote the exfoliation of melanocytes containing melanin. The nicotinamide has small molecules, can be directly absorbed by cells, can keep the energy balance of the skin, can recover the energy of the cells and accelerate the synthesis of collagen, thereby avoiding the hyperpigmentation of the melanin caused by low oil content and thin cuticle of the skin.
Thus, the effects of niacinamide in the present invention are mainly to accelerate metabolism, promote the exfoliation of melanin-containing keratinocytes, reduce the transfer of melanin to epidermal cells, and promote the synthesis of epidermal proteins.
The whitening composition may contain Galla chinensis extract, glycyrrhizinic acid or its liposoluble derivatives, arbutin or folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae extract, olea europaea leaf extract, and ellagic acid in an amount of as low as 0.01% independently; on one hand, the skin activity can be improved by improving the skin immunity, and the dark yellow and dry skin can be relieved, so that a better whitening effect is achieved; on the other hand, under the action of low content of active substances, good whitening effect can still be achieved.
In some embodiments, the antioxidant is selected from 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucoside, ascorbic acid, or combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, the exfoliating substance is selected from hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, azelaic acid, salicylic acid, lactobionic acid, or combinations thereof.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition further comprises an additional organic encapsulating agent selected from lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, chitosan, hydroxyethyl chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl chitosan, cyclodextrin, maltodextrin, gum arabic or a combination thereof. . The chitosan may be chitosan. The organic coating agent can be microscopically acted with the polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 to realize the mutual solubility of insoluble substances in the whitening composition, and simultaneously, the absorption and application of the skin are promoted to achieve better permeation-promoting and whitening effects.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition for skin further comprises a solvent selected from organic alcohol, water, vegetable oil or a combination thereof. The whitening composition can be used in a water-soluble medium and an oil-soluble medium, has high compatibility and has more common use scenes.
In some embodiments, the vegetable oil is selected from jojoba oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grape seed oil, shea butter, meadowfoam seed oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, palm oil, squalane, cocoa butter, jojoba fat, glycolipids, octyldodecanol, caprylic capric triglyceride, coco-caprylic capric triglyceride, oleic/linoleic/linolenic polyglycerides and dioctyldodecanol dimer linoleate, or a combination thereof.
According to the embodiments of the present application, the vegetable oil or fat can ensure safety, moisture, fluidity, and homogeneity of the whitening composition for skin, and can ensure the moisturizing effect thereof. Wherein, the grape seed oil, the coconut oil and the sunflower seed oil also have antioxidant effect, can improve the repairing effect on chapped skin, and reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays.
In some embodiments, the organic alcohol is selected from methyl propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, octyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, or a combination thereof. The whitening composition for skin is dissolved in the above organic alcohol, and has good intersolubility and improved moisturizing effect.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition for skin further comprises: at least one of a humectant, a thickener, an emulsifier, a neutralizer, and a preservative. Any one or more additives can be added to the skin whitening composition to achieve corresponding functions and improve the using effect of the composition.
In some embodiments, the humectant is selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, and sodium hyaluronate, or a combination thereof. The above moisturizer can enhance the moisturizing effect of the whitening composition for skin, and is well mixed with each component.
In some embodiments, the thickening agent is selected from carbomers, acrylic polymers crosslinked with C10-C30 alkanol acrylate, xanthan gum, or combinations thereof. The above thickener has important effects on thickening, stability and rheology of a whitening composition for skin; by using the thickeners in different weight ratios, the whitening composition for skin can be in a liquid state, a paste state, or a gel state to be suitable for different scenes. The whitening composition has good thickness and excellent spreadability and ductility due to the adoption of the thickening agent in a proper proportion.
In some embodiments, the plant emulsifier is selected from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl 2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl 6-polyricinoleate, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate and sucrose cocoate or combinations thereof. The plant emulsifier is plant-derived, green and safe, has no stimulation to skin, is suitable for sensitive muscle user groups, and has good anti-allergy and relieving effects. The polyglycerol stearate can form a lamellar liquid crystal type colloid network structure in an emulsification system, and the stability of the emulsification system is improved. The polyglycerol-3 diisostearate and the polyglycerol 2-dipolyhydroxystearate have stronger emulsifying capacity, can wrap more water phase by less oil phase, has good dispersibility and stability, and has better compatibility with various water-in-oil system emulsifiers.
In some embodiments, the neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or a combination thereof. By adding the neutralizing agent, the pH of the skin whitening composition can be controlled to be more suitable for the skin of different users.
In some embodiments, the preservative is selected from phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-anisic acid, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerin, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, or combinations thereof. The preservative is well compatible with other substances, and the shelf life of the whitening composition for skin can be prolonged by adding the preservative.
The whitening composition according to the present application may further include one or a combination of two or more of a radical scavenger, a chelating agent, an antioxidant, a film forming agent, a stabilizer, a fragrance, and a pigment, preferably, the stabilizer includes one or a combination of two or more of sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, and magnesium sulfate, and the chelating agent includes EDTA-2Na and/or EDTA-4Na.
In some embodiments, the whitening composition may further comprise a skin immune enhancing agent of natural origin, such as sodium hyaluronate, bisabolol, cucumber fruit extract, bergamot extract, cornflower extract, or a combination thereof. The skin immunity promoter is healthy and safe, and can improve skin immunity. In addition, the carboxymethyl B-glucan salt may be carboxymethyl B-glucan sodium, carboxymethyl B-glucan potassium or the like.
The invention also provides an application of the whitening composition in a skin care product, preferably, the skin care product comprises an aqueous skin care product, a gel skin care product, an emulsion skin care product, an essence skin care product or a cream skin care product.
The water-based skin care product comprises: whitening water, whitening composition liquid, whitening mask, etc.; the gel-type skin care product comprises: whitening compositions, whitening gels, whitening gel-like sleep masks, and the like; the emulsion type skin care product comprises: whitening lotions and the like; the cream type skin care product includes: whitening cream, etc.
The present invention also provides a method for preparing a whitening composition according to the present invention, comprising the step of mixing the components of the whitening composition.
Examples
The present disclosure is more particularly described in the following examples that are intended as illustrations only, since various modifications and changes within the scope of the present disclosure will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Unless otherwise indicated, all parts, percentages, and ratios reported in the following examples are on a weight basis, and all reagents used in the examples are commercially available or synthesized according to conventional methods and can be used directly without further treatment, and the equipment used in the examples is commercially available.
Examples and comparative examples
The embodiment of the application provides a whitening composition for skin, which comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
whitening active substance comprising Galla chinensis extract, glycyrrhizinic acid or its liposoluble derivatives, arbutin or folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae extract, and Olea europaea leaf extract;
a whitening compound comprising a composition of ellagic acid and nicotinamide;
an antioxidant;
a exfoliating material;
a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine comprising polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 for encapsulating the whitening active and the whitening compound. The preparation method of the whitening composition for skin comprises the following steps: the above raw materials are mixed and prepared into a uniform state. The specific components of each component are shown in table 1.
The contents of the components of the comparative examples are shown in Table 2, and the preparation method is the same as in the examples.
Table 1 examples the components of the whitening composition and their contents.
Table 2 components and their contents of the whitening composition of the comparative example.
Test section
1) And (3) whitening test: inhibition of tyrosinase activity
The principle is as follows: tyrosinase is a key enzyme in skin melanin biosynthesis and acts on dopa to form dopaquinone, which spontaneously undergoes a series of reactions, eventually forming melanin. Tyrosinase catalyzes the conversion of dopa to dopaquinone in a phosphoric acid solution at pH6.8, and the absorbance can be measured at 475nm of a spectrophotometer. The material with tyrosinase activity inhibiting effect can reduce conversion of dopa to dopaquinone, thereby reducing light absorption value. The inhibition of tyrosinase activity by the starting material was evaluated based on the change in absorbance.
The instrument comprises the following steps: analytical balance: sensory 0.1mg, test tube: one, 10mL specification, adjustable pipette: capacity 1.00mL, uv-vis spectrophotometer.
Reagent:
unless otherwise stated, the solvents used are analytically pure, water, primary water in accordance with the provisions of GB/T6682.
Na 2 HPO 4 ·12H 2 O
Citric acid monohydrate
(1) Adding 0.2mol/L of Na 2 HPO 4 ·12H 2 O,14.33g is dissolved in 200mL of water and stirred by a glass rod until the O is dissolved;
(2) 0.1mol/L citric acid monohydrate, 2.1g are dissolved in 100mL water and stirred by a glass rod until the citric acid monohydrate is dissolved;
(3) 0.2mol/L Na of disodium hydrogenphosphate-citric acid buffer solution with pH of 6.8 2 HPO 4 ·12H 2 O154.5 mL: 45.5mL of 0.1mol/L citric acid monohydrate was added to prepare 200mL of disodium hydrogen phosphate-citric acid buffer
Tyrosinase (b): the activity is more than or equal to 1000unit/mg solid
Levodopa: the purity is more than or equal to 98 percent
Tyrosinase solution: the solution was prepared at 100u/mL using a disodium hydrogen phosphate-citric acid buffer solution (pH 6.8) and used for clinical application.
Levodopa solution: 1mg/mL is prepared by using a pH6.8 disodium hydrogen phosphate-citric acid buffer solution, and the mixture is stored in a dark place.
Positive control: kojic acid with purity not less than 98.5%.
The experimental method comprises the following steps: the positive control was diluted with disodium phosphate-citric acid buffer ph6.8 to: a series of concentration gradients of 1mg/mL, 0.2mg/mL, 0.04mg/mL, 0.008mg/mL were used to validate the assay system.
Treating a test object: the test substance is diluted into a multi-concentration sample by using a disodium hydrogen phosphate-citric acid buffer solution.
Referring to table 3, using 10mL test tubes to set up sample tubes (T), sample background (T0), enzyme reaction tubes (C) and solvent background (C0), 3 parallel tubes were set up for each sample tube (T) of each concentration tested, and 3 parallel tubes were also set up for enzyme reaction tubes (C). 1mL of sample solution with the same concentration is added into the sample tube (T) and the sample background (T0), and 1mL of disodium hydrogen phosphate-citric acid buffer solution is added into the enzyme reaction tube (C) and the solvent background (C0). 0.5mL of tyrosinase solution was added to each of the sample tube (T) and the enzyme reaction tube (C), the sample background (T0) and the solvent background (C0) were replaced with 0.5mL of disodium hydrogen phosphate-citric acid buffer, the samples and tyrosinase were mixed well, and incubated in a 37 ℃ water bath for 10 minutes. And sequentially adding 2mL of levodopa solution into each tube, controlling the reaction time of each tube to be 5 minutes, immediately transferring each tube of reaction solution into a cuvette, and measuring the light absorption value at 475 nm.
Table 3 sample addition.
And (4) calculating a result: calculation of tyrosinase inhibition:
inhibition rate: (%) = [1- (T-T0)/(C-C0) ]. Times.100%
Wherein T is the light absorption value of the sample tube, namely the light absorption value of the solution after the sample reacts with tyrosinase;
t0 is the background light absorption value of the sample; the light absorption value of the enzyme reaction tube is averaged for 3 times, namely the light absorption value of the reaction of tyrosinase and dopa when no sample is added; c0 is the background light absorption value of the solvent.
Table 4 comparative example is compared to 6 example samples for inhibition of tyrosinase.
From the results in table 4, it can be seen that the examples have better inhibition effect on tyrosinase, reaching 80% or more, than the comparative examples, which have poorer inhibition effect.
2) Chick embryo chorioallantoic Membrane test results
Basic principle of the test: the chorioallantoic membrane (CAM) is a respiratory membrane that surrounds the chick embryo. Because the surface blood vessels of the chick embryo allantoic membrane are rich and can be regarded as a complete organism, the test utilizes the characteristics of complete, clear and transparent blood vessel systems of chorioallantoic membrane in the middle stage of hatched chick embryos, a certain amount of tested substances are directly contacted with the chick embryo allantoic membrane, the change of toxicity effect indexes (such as bleeding, blood coagulation and blood vessel melting) of the chorioallantoic membrane is observed after the action is carried out for a specified time, the score is given, and the mathematical average value is calculated for evaluating the eye irritation of the tested substances.
Test method and procedure
1. CAM preparation
Removing eggshell from the top of the air chamber of a 9-day-old chick embryo, adding a proper amount of normal saline on the egg membrane, taking out the chick embryo, carefully peeling off the egg membrane by using medical elbow forceps, exposing the allantoic membrane, and observing the integrity of the allantoic membrane.
2. Positive/negative control
Before the main test, a negative control test and a positive control test are performed. Negative control adopts 0.9% sodium chloride solution; the positive control was selected from the substance capable of producing a severe reaction, 1% SDS, 0.1mol/L sodium hydroxide.
3. Observing the test object and calculating and scoring
In the case of the official test, 6 chick embryos per test subject were used. Sucking or weighing 0.3ml or 0.3g of sample on allantoic membrane, covering the surface as much as possible, observing the variation degree of each toxic effect under a stereoscopic microscope immediately after exposing for 5min (if the sample is solid, after contacting for 3min, the sample is washed out with physiological saline gently), observing and recording the time or degree from the test start to the appearance of each bleeding, blood coagulation and vascular thawing, and carrying out irritation scoring by adopting a time assessment method and an end point scoring method.
And, the score range is set to 0-10, 10 is the safest, and 0 is the most irritating.
And (3) detecting results: the safety of the example 1 group was 10 points, the irritation of the comparative example group was high, the irritation was about 7 points, and the irritation of the comparative example was higher than that of the examples because the ratio of the single components was too high to be stacked.
3) Test of whitening Effect
1. Experimental method
260 subjects with dull facial complexion were screened, and 20 subjects per group were tested using the whitening compositions of examples 1-7 of the present invention and the whitening compositions of comparative examples 1-6, respectively. Before trial use of the product, the facial skin is subjected to melanin and color difference data acquisition and facial image analysis test, the data is used as the background value of the skin, and the product is continuously used for 4 weeks. Data were collected at week 1, week 2, and week 4, respectively, and all data were averaged. The skin color difference test probe and the multifunctional skin test system (CL 400 and MPA6, german CK) and the skin red melanin tester and the test probe (Mexameter MX18, germany CK company) are utilized to evaluate the changes of the skin brightness (brightness) and the skin melanin content before and after the cosmetic (and the cosmetic functional ingredients) is used by a subject, so that the whitening effect of the cosmetic (or the functional ingredients) is determined.
2. Evaluation index
2.1 Melanin content MI value of skin
Based on the principle of spectral absorption (RGB), the content of melanin in the skin is determined by measuring the amount of radiation after illumination of a specific wavelength on the skin of a human body. The measuring range of the instrument is 0-999, and the higher the measuring value is, the higher the content of melanin in the skin is.
2.2 skin Brightness L value
The lightness L value is used to characterize white balance, and the larger the L value, the more white the color is, and conversely, the more black the color is.
3. Test results
3.1 Melanin content MI value of skin
ΔMI=Tn-T0
Wherein Tn is the value of the melanin content in the test area over time;
t0-initial value of melanin content in the test area.
T0 and Tn represent melanin in unit area; the larger the value, the darker the skin color.
Table 5 results of one month skin melanin MI values test using the whitening composition.
In table 5, n =0, 1,2, 3.
As can be seen from table 1, the skin melanin Δ MI values tended to decrease after the subjects used the whitening compositions of examples 1-7 within 4 weeks of the test period. And the delta MI at week 1, week 2 and week 4 was higher than the whitening compositions of comparative examples 1-6, the skin melanin was significantly reduced. Also, the Δ MI values of the whitening composition of the present invention were significantly superior to those of comparative examples 8 to 12. Compared to the delta MI values of comparative examples 1-12,
the Δ MI of examples 1-7 exhibited synergistic effects.
3.2 skin Brightness L value
ΔL*=tn-t0
In the formula, t n is the time variation value of the brightness of the tested area;
t 0-the starting value of the brightness of the tested area.
TABLE 6 statistical results of skin brightness L before and after use of test products
In table 6, n =0, 1,2, 3.
As can be seen from table 6, the skin brightness Δ L values of the subjects showed an increasing tendency after the whitening compositions of the present invention were used in the test of 4 weeks, and were significantly different from the whitening compositions of comparative examples 1 to 6 in all of the 1 st, 2 nd and 4 th weeks. In addition, the skin brightness Δ L value of the whitening composition of the present invention is significantly superior to that of the comparative example. Therefore, it was demonstrated that the whitening composition of the present invention has the effect of improving skin brightness.
In addition, during the use test period, the test population is revisited, and the population using the whitening composition of the embodiment 1-6 of the invention has no adverse phenomena such as stimulation, allergy and the like in the use process. After the whitening composition is used for 4 weeks, the skin is transparent, the brightness is improved, and the spots are lightened, which shows that the whitening composition has a good whitening effect.
4) Patch test
1. Experimental method
1.1 test materials
The test substance: whitening compositions of examples 1-7
Negative control: blank control
A spot tester: shanghai sanitation Material works Ltd. +140801
Testing the instrument: quantitative piston gun (Microman M100+ GILSON LCO 5239), single channel liquid transfer device (Transferpette +08N 33275)
2. Test method
Subject: a total of 30 subjects; the minimum age is 21 years, the maximum age is 35 years; mean age 29 ± 5.4 year old volunteers met the enrollment criteria.
The spot-sticking test method comprises the following steps: selecting a qualified spot tester, placing 0.020-0.025g (essence) of a tested object in the spot tester by a closed spot patch test method, externally applying a medical adhesive tape to the back of the tested object, removing the tested object after 24 hours, observing skin reactions respectively at 0.5, 24 and 48 hours after the spot patch is removed, and recording the result according to the skin reaction grading standard in the technical Specification for cosmetic safety.
3. Basis of examination
The fifth part of the technical Specification for cosmetic safety, namely the classification standard of adverse skin reactions in a human skin closed patch test, shows the detection results in Table 5.
The specific reaction degree is classified into grades:
1. negative reaction;
2. and (3) suspicious reaction: only faint erythema;
3. weak positive reaction (erythema reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, and possibly papules;
4. strong positive reaction (herpes reaction): erythema, infiltration, edema, papules, herpes, reactions that may be beyond the test area;
5. very strong positive reaction (fusogenic herpes reaction): erythema, severe infiltration, edema, fusional herpes, and response beyond the test area.
Table 7 closed patch test results for human skin of whitening compositions of examples 1-6
From the above conclusion of table 6 it can be seen that: the result of the human skin closed patch test shows that 0 of 30 persons has positive reaction, and the tested substance does not cause adverse skin reaction to the batch of tested persons according to the technical Specification for cosmetic safety. It is demonstrated that the whitening composition prepared using the whitening composition of the present invention has less irritation.
While the invention has been described with reference to specific embodiments, the scope of the invention is not limited thereto, and those skilled in the art can easily conceive various equivalent modifications or substitutions within the technical scope of the invention. Therefore, the protection scope of the present application shall be subject to the protection scope of the claims.
Claims (10)
1. A whitening composition for skin comprising the following components:
whitening active substance comprising Galla chinensis extract, glycyrrhizinic acid or its liposoluble derivatives, arbutin or folium Vaccinii Vitis-idaeae extract, and Olea europaea leaf extract;
a whitening compound comprising a composition of ellagic acid and nicotinamide;
an antioxidant;
exfoliating material;
a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine comprising polyquaternary ammonium salt-51 for encapsulating the whitening active and the whitening compound.
2. Whitening composition for the skin according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises, in mass percentages:
0.04 to 30 percent of whitening active substance;
0.11-30% of whitening compound;
0.1% -30% of antioxidant;
0.1-5% of exfoliating substances;
the balance being a lipopolymer of phosphorylcholine.
3. Whitening composition for the skin according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises 0.01-10% of an extract of Galla rhois; and/or the presence of a gas in the gas,
the whitening composition comprises 0.01-10% glycyrrhetinic acid or its liposoluble derivatives; and/or the presence of a gas in the gas,
the whitening composition comprises 0.01% -5% of arbutin or bearberry leaf extract; and/or the presence of a gas in the gas,
the whitening composition comprises 0.01% -5% of olive leaf extract.
4. Whitening composition for the skin according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises 0.01% -20% ellagic acid; and/or the presence of a gas in the gas,
the whitening composition comprises 0.1% -10% niacinamide.
5. Whitening composition for skin according to claim 1 or 2,
the antioxidant is selected from 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbic acid or a combination thereof; and/or the presence of a gas in the atmosphere,
the exfoliating substance is selected from hydroxyethylpiperazine ethanesulfonic acid, azelaic acid, salicylic acid, lactobionic acid or combinations thereof.
6. The whitening composition for skin according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising an additional organic encapsulating agent selected from lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, chitosan, hydroxyethyl chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, hydroxypropyl chitosan, cyclodextrin, maltodextrin, gum arabic or a combination thereof.
7. The whitening composition for skin according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising a solvent selected from organic alcohols, water, vegetable oils or combinations thereof.
8. A whitening composition for skin according to claim 7, characterized in that the vegetable oil or fat is selected from jojoba oil, sunflower seed oil, castor oil, coconut oil, grape seed oil, shea butter, meadowfoam seed oil, macadamia nut oil, olive oil, palm oil, squalane, cocoa butter, jojoba fat, glycolipids, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, coco-caprylic/capric triglyceride, oleic/linoleic/linolenic polyglycerides and dioctyldodecanol dilinoleate or a combination thereof;
the organic alcohol is selected from the group consisting of methyl propylene glycol, 1, 3-propanediol, 1, 3-butanediol, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, octyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, or combinations thereof.
9. The whitening composition for skin according to claim 1 or 2, further comprising at least one of a humectant, a thickener, an emulsifier, a neutralizer and a preservative.
10. Whitening composition for skin according to claim 9,
the humectant is selected from glycerin, butylene glycol, 1, 3-propylene glycol, 1, 2-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, and sodium hyaluronate, or a combination thereof;
the thickening agent is selected from carbomer, acrylic acid cross-linked polymer with C10-C30 alkanol acrylate, xanthan gum or combination thereof;
the plant emulsifier is selected from polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, polyglyceryl 2-dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 isostearate, polyglyceryl 4-isostearate, polyglyceryl 3-polyricinoleate, polyglyceryl 6-polyricinoleate, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan oleate and sucrose cocoate or a combination thereof;
the neutralizing agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or a combination thereof;
the preservative is selected from phenoxyethanol, p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-pentanediol, 1, 2-hexanediol, p-anisic acid, caprylyl glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, caprylyl hydroxamic acid, or combinations thereof.
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WO2016166038A1 (en) * | 2015-04-16 | 2016-10-20 | Symrise Ag | Whitening compositions |
CN108324676A (en) * | 2018-04-28 | 2018-07-27 | 广东巴松那生物科技有限公司 | A kind of promotion of compacting, anti-aging face cream and preparation method thereof |
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