CN116725924A - Light-streak repairing lip cream and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Light-streak repairing lip cream and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN116725924A CN116725924A CN202310881677.XA CN202310881677A CN116725924A CN 116725924 A CN116725924 A CN 116725924A CN 202310881677 A CN202310881677 A CN 202310881677A CN 116725924 A CN116725924 A CN 116725924A
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- Prior art keywords
- sucrose
- skin
- stirring
- emulsifier
- oil
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- QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N isooleic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC=CCCCCCCCCC(O)=O QXJSBBXBKPUZAA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 229910001220 stainless steel Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010935 stainless steel Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000528 statistical test Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- AWDRATDZQPNJFN-VAYUFCLWSA-N taurodeoxycholic acid Chemical compound C([C@H]1CC2)[C@H](O)CC[C@]1(C)[C@@H]1[C@@H]2[C@@H]2CC[C@H]([C@@H](CCC(=O)NCCS(O)(=O)=O)C)[C@@]2(C)[C@@H](O)C1 AWDRATDZQPNJFN-VAYUFCLWSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000010257 thawing Methods 0.000 description 1
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- 235000010384 tocopherol Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005809 transesterification reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N tricaprin Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC)COC(=O)CCCCCCCCC LADGBHLMCUINGV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N α-tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2O[C@@](CCC[C@H](C)CCC[C@H](C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-IEOSBIPESA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4906—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4913—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with one nitrogen as the only hetero atom having five membered rings, e.g. pyrrolidone carboxylic acid
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
- A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
- A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
- A61K2800/34—Free of silicones
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics in the light industry, and particularly relates to a light-pattern repairing lip cream and a preparation method thereof. The composition and weight ratio are, 40-80% of water phase composition, 1-5% of emulsifying agent and 15-55% of oil phase composition; the aqueous phase composition comprises a solvent, a humectant, a preservative and a skin conditioning agent; the emulsifier consists of a main emulsifier and an auxiliary emulsifier, wherein the main emulsifier is sucrose stearate, and is specifically one or more of sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose behenate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate and sucrose polyoleate; the auxiliary emulsifier is one or more of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, stearyl alcohol polyether-21, 18 acid/stearic acid and cetostearyl alcohol; the oil phase composition comprises grease, a thickener, an antioxidant and a skin conditioner.
Description
Technical field:
the invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics in the light industry, and particularly relates to a light-pattern repairing lip cream and a preparation method thereof.
The background technology is as follows:
the lips are very fragile due to the fact that the lips do not have horny layers, and are easily influenced by the environment, and the problems of dry lips, cracks, pigment deposition, deepening lips and the like can be caused by factors such as weather, food, beverage and the like.
The existing mode of covering the lips on the market mainly comprises physical covering, such as adding an organic silicon elastomer to fill the lips, so as to play a temporary repairing role, however, the silicon elastomer cannot be absorbed by skin, the lips are exposed after washing, and the fundamental problem of the lips is not changed in practical sense. The lip marks are generated in various ways, and the lip marks are gradually increased due to lack of moistening due to the fact that lips are dry; on the other hand, the loss of collagen can also cause the appearance of lip marks, so that the lips are gradually shrunken to show the lip marks, and the anti-aging effect of the lips can also improve the lip marks. From the above, it is clear that improvement of lips is feasible from the aspects of moisture retention, repair, anti-aging and the like.
The extract Luo Mu can fill certain moisture for skin, has strong water locking capacity, can maintain cellular enzymes, can avoid outflow of water in cells, has the effects of moisturizing and moistening, and often has a certain effect on dry skinned skin. The rich Luo Muzhong plant components can stimulate the metabolism of cells, promote the regeneration of the cells, make the skin more elastic and resist the damage and aging of the external environment. The density Luo Mu can also effectively keep sufficient moisture, keep cells active, strengthen cell elasticity, improve the water holding capacity of skin, reduce wrinkles, strengthen skin elasticity and delay skin aging.
Avocado oil, olive oil, phytosterol, butter fruit, cocoa seed fat, and plant squalane belong to vegetable oil or oil extracted from plants, and are effective in softening cutin, smoothing lip streak as lubricating and moisturizing agent of lip product, increasing skin respiration, preventing loss of moisture, softening cutin, and mixing with fibrous protein to lighten lip streak.
Dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is a palmitoylation derivative of amino acid-hydroxyproline, and can improve the absorptivity of lip skin to hydroxyproline after palmitoylation, and release hydroxyproline under the action of lipase, so that collagen synthesis is promoted, elasticity is improved, and lip skin is plumped.
Sucrose fatty acid esters are nonionic surfactants with a hydrophilic sucrose group and a lipophilic fatty acid group, known as sugar esters; the hydrophilic sucrose moiety has a firm and compact structure and combines excellent hydrophilicity with high oleophobicity. Therefore, a firm interface film can be formed at the oil-water interface. Is prepared by transesterification of C12-18 fatty acid methyl ester (stearic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid and lauric acid) and sucrose, and is natural and mild and does not contain polyethylene glycol. Sucrose esters can be used as emollients and moisturizers to achieve the moisturizing and moisturizing effects by forming a permeable sebum film similar to natural sebum on the skin surface; it hardly affects the natural sebum layer of the skin, and has the property of merging and increasing the natural sebum of the skin. Protecting sebum layer, helping to protect skin from dryness and losing elasticity, and ensuring defending function of skin. Sucrose esters do not affect the NMF (natural moisturizing factor) of the skin, but rather soften the skin, promote lubrication and provide a pleasant skin feel.
The invention comprises the following steps:
the invention provides a light-pattern repair lip cream and a preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the aim, the invention adopts the following technical proposal that the composition and the weight proportion are that 40 to 80 percent of water phase composition, 1 to 5 percent of emulsifying agent and 15 to 55 percent of oil phase composition;
the aqueous phase composition comprises a solvent, a humectant, a preservative and a skin conditioning agent;
the emulsifier consists of a main emulsifier and an auxiliary emulsifier, wherein the main emulsifier is sucrose stearate, and is specifically one or more of sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose behenate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate and sucrose polyoleate; the auxiliary emulsifier is one or more of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, stearyl alcohol polyether-21, 18 acid/stearic acid and cetostearyl alcohol;
the oil phase composition comprises grease, a thickener, an antioxidant and a skin conditioner.
The solvent is water.
The humectant is one or more of sodium hyaluronate and its derivatives (including sodium hyaluronate), allantoin, betaine, tremella polysaccharide, algal polysaccharide, D-panthenol, polyalcohol, allantoin, and urea.
The preservative is one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, pentanediol, propylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol and octanediol.
The skin conditioner in the water phase composition is one or more of citrus fruit extract, fructose and olive leaf extract.
The oil is one or more of avocado oil, olive oil, phytosterol, butter fruit, cocoa butter, small fruit coffee seed oil, white pool seed oil, plant squalane, jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, C10-18 fatty triglyceride, and hexyl decyl myristoyl methylaminopropionate.
The thickening agent is one or more of beeswax, stearic acid, cetostearyl alcohol, microcrystalline wax and synthetic wax.
The antioxidant is one or more of VE (tocopherol), VE acetate and oryzanol.
The skin conditioner in the oil phase composition is one or more of lipophilic Vitamin C (VCIP), 4-dipalmitoyl proline (DPHP) and hydroxypropyl dipalmitoyl amide (MEA).
The specific preparation method is that,
(1) Accurately weighing the water phase raw materials into a main pot, stirring at 20-30rpm, heating to 85 ℃, continuing stirring for 10-15 minutes, stirring until the water phase raw materials are completely dissolved, and preserving heat and stirring for 10 minutes;
(2) Adding the oil phase raw material and the emulsifier into an oil pan, stirring at 400-600rpm, heating to 70-75 ℃, and continuously stirring for 10-15 minutes until the oil phase raw material and the emulsifier are uniformly dispersed;
(3) Stirring the water phase at 20-30rpm, slowly pumping the oil pan raw material into the main pan, stirring at 20-30rpm, homogenizing at 3000rpm, and homogenizing for 3 min; after homogenization is completed, preserving heat and stirring for 10-15 minutes; then stirring and cooling to 60-65 ℃;
(4) Cooling the main pot to 40-45 ℃, adding the active substances and the preservative which are not resistant to high temperature into the main pot, stirring for 20-30rpm, homogenizing for 2500rpm, and homogenizing for 3 minutes; cooling to 30 ℃ with chilled water after homogenization is completed;
(5) Sampling and detecting, filtering and discharging by using 100-mesh filter cloth after the sample is qualified, wherein the discharging temperature is 30 ℃.
The invention has the beneficial effects that:
1. the invention has obvious effect of repairing the light streak (difference is visible to naked eyes in 24 hours and 3 days).
2. Compared with products with the same efficacy on the market, the invention adopts vegetable oil and plant-derived emulsifying agent, is mild and comfortable, and has almost no irritation to fragile lip products.
3. The invention does not contain polymer silicon polymers with physical filling effect such as organosilicon elastomer and the like, but solves the problem of lip marks from the aspect of moisturizing and promoting collagen.
Description of the drawings:
FIG. 1 is a negative control image of the chick embryo test of example 1.
FIG. 2 is a positive control image of the chick embryo test of example 1.
FIG. 3 is a test image of chick embryo 1 of example 1.
FIG. 4 is a test image of chick embryo 2 of example 1.
FIG. 5 is a test image of chick embryo 3 of example 1.
FIG. 6 is a test image of chick embryo 4 of example 1.
FIG. 7 is a test image of chick embryo 5 of example 1.
FIG. 8 is a test image of chick embryo 6 of example 1.
Fig. 9 is a comparison of lip texture improvement using example 1 for a 38 year old female (T0, T5min, T2h, T24 h).
Fig. 10 is a comparative graph of lip texture improvement using example 1 for a 30 year old female (T0, T5min, T2h, T24 h).
FIG. 11 is a comparison of lip texture improvement using example 1 for a 26 year old female (T0, T5min, T2h, T24 h).
Fig. 12 is a comparative graph of lip texture improvement using example 1 for a 49 year old female (initial T0 and D3 three days later).
Fig. 13 is a comparison of lips texture improvement using example 1 for a 48 year old female (initial T0 and D3 three days later).
Fig. 14 is a comparison of the improvement of lip texture for a 47 year old female using example 1 (initial T0 and D3 three days later).
Fig. 15 is a comparative graph of lip texture improvement using example 1 for a 41 year old female (initial T0 and D3 three days later).
The specific embodiment is as follows:
the formulations of examples 1-5 and comparative examples are shown in Table 1 below.
The preparation method comprises the following steps of,
(1) Pretreatment: and (3) placing the C-phase raw material into a stainless steel container, heating to 40-50 ℃ on a water bath kettle, and stirring until the C-phase raw material is uniformly dissolved for standby.
(2) Accurately weighing the phase A raw material into a main pot, stirring at 20-30rpm, heating to 85 ℃, continuously stirring for 10-15 minutes, and stirring until the raw material is completely dissolved. Then the mixture was stirred for 10 minutes with heat preservation.
(3) Adding the B phase raw material into an oil pot before emulsification, preserving the temperature at 70-75 ℃, stirring at 400-600rpm for 10min, and stirring until the B phase raw material is uniformly dispersed. Stirring the main pot at 20-30rpm, slowly pumping the oil pot raw material into the main pot, stirring at 20-30rpm after pumping, homogenizing at 3000rpm, and homogenizing for 3 min. After homogenization is completed, the mixture is stirred for 10 to 15 minutes under heat preservation. After the step is completed, the main pot is stirred and cooled to 60 ℃.
(4) When the temperature of the main pot is reduced to 40 ℃, adding the pre-dissolved C phase and D phase into the main pot, stirring for 20-30rpm, homogenizing for 1500rpm, and homogenizing for 3 minutes. After homogenization was completed, stirring was maintained at 20rpm, and cooling was performed to 30℃with chilled water.
(5) After the step is finished, sampling and detection are carried out, and after the sample is qualified, a 100-mesh filter cloth is used for filtering and discharging (the discharging temperature is 30 ℃).
The test results of examples 1-5 and comparative examples are as follows:
1. irritation test
Detecting items: cosmetic eye irritation/corrosiveness chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane test.
The detection basis is as follows: the national institute of the people's republic of China goes into the inspection and quarantine industry standard SN/T2329-2009, test of chick embryo chorioallantoic membrane for eye irritation/corrosiveness of cosmetics.
Test purpose: as an alternative to eye-irritating animal tests, related cosmetics and raw materials were tested for eye irritation/eye corrosiveness.
Experimental materials: chick embryo, grade Bai Laihang chick SPF fertilized chick embryo, purchased from Zhejiang Lihua agricultural technologies Co. Hatching conditions: incubation temperature: 37.5 ℃, relative humidity: 60 percent; the main reagent comprises: saline (colen), SDS (Sigma); the main instrument is as follows: incubator (Grumbach), and microscope (Leka).
The testing method comprises the following steps: the end point evaluation method is adopted for detection, and negative control is additionally arranged in the experiment: 0.9% sodium chloride solution, positive control: 1% SDS, using the reaction time method.
Experimental operation: CAM preparation: the 9-day-old chick embryo is checked by taking an egg, the eggshell of the air chamber part is stripped by dental saw tooth bent forceps, the white egg membrane is exposed, and the integrity of the egg membrane is not damaged by careful operation. A drop of 0.9% sodium chloride (NaCl) solution was dropped into the tube to wet the egg membrane, and the inner membrane was carefully removed with forceps to ensure that the vascular membrane was not damaged. At this point again the structure of the vascular system is observed and a determination is made as to its integrity and suitability for testing. Testing before experiments: taking 2 chick embryos, checking the reactivity of the chick embryos, and limiting the action time to be within 5 minutes. Pre-test: with 3 chick embryos, 0.3mL of the test object was taken, ensuring that at least 50% of the CAM surface was covered by the test object. Immediately after the test substance was applied, the CAM reaction was observed for 5min, and the observation was recorded. Determining whether the test object is suitable for the test by the method and determining that the formal test is carried out by adopting a reaction time method or an end point evaluation method.
Endpoint evaluation method: 0.3mL or 0.3g of the test object is used to act on the CAM, ensuring that at least 50% of the CAM surface is covered by the test object. After 3min of action, the CAM test was gently rinsed with physiological saline and the extent of each toxic effect change was observed about 30s after rinsing.
Reaction evaluation method: 0.3mL of the test object was applied to the CAM, ensuring that at least 50% of the CAM surface was covered by the test object. The CAM reaction was observed and the time to onset of each toxic effect was recorded over 5min of action. Each sample was provided with 6 chick embryos and 1 chick embryo for negative and positive controls.
Evaluation of results: end point score (ES), an experiment performed by the end point score, a score according to the degree of change in toxic effect, and an end point score (ES) calculated by using formula (1): the sum of the bleeding, coagulation and vascular thawing degree scores observed for es=6 chick embryos, when ES < =12, no/light stimulation, 12< ES <16, medium stimulation, ES > =16, strong stimulation/corrosiveness.
The value of the negative control IS less than 1 (is=0.00) and the value of the positive control IS 10 or more (is=14.70), the test condition meets the standard, and the result IS acceptable.
Table 1 ES scoring of samples of examples and comparative examples
Sample of | Example 1 | Example 2 | Example 3 | Example 4 | Example 5 | Comparative example |
ES scoring | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 | 3 | 8 |
Stimulation determination | No stimulation | No stimulation | No stimulation | No stimulation | No stimulation | Light thornExcitation device |
Es=0 for examples 1-4 is no stimulus, es=3 for example 5 also belongs to no stimulus, and es=8 in the comparative example belongs to light stimulus. This may be related to the greater amount of active added in example 5, and to the emulsifier class in the comparative example. But all fall within the ES <12 range of no/light irritation.
2. Human efficacy evaluation experiment
Number of test persons: 33 people
The method is based on the reference: the T/CAB 0152-2022 cosmetic has anti-wrinkle, tightening, moisturizing, oil control, repairing, nourishing and relieving effects; T/GDCA 009-2022 cosmetic repair efficacy human body evaluation method; T/TDCA 003-2021 cosmetic tightening efficacy test method.
The detection purpose is as follows: the effects of moisturizing, repairing, nourishing, compacting and anti-wrinkle (improving the texture of lips) of the product are comprehensively evaluated by using test products by a group of subjects and detecting and self-evaluating questionnaires by instruments, and the effects of lightening the lips and the complexion of lips are comprehensively evaluated.
The detection method comprises the following steps: the lips were selected to be dry in skin and had a marked visible dry/fine line, with poor barrier function, dark color, dark red, and 33 subjects of healthy women in China lacking in elasticity, ranging from 20 to 50 years of age. The moisture content of the skin cuticle, the skin percutaneous moisture loss value, the skin elasticity and the skin compactness of the subject are measured by adopting a front-back control method, subjective evaluation is carried out, and local and full-face photos are taken. The test results are compared by a statistical test method to judge whether the statistical difference exists.
Detection part:
(1) Moisture content of skin stratum corneum-lips
(2) Skin transdermal moisture loss value-lip
(3) Skin elasticity R2-lip
(4) Skin firmness F4-lip
(5) VISIA-CR lip skin glossiness parameter-full face photographing analysis lip
(6) Visia-CR perilabial skin glossiness parameter-full face photographing analysis perilabial
(7) PRIMOS lip texture area-lip
(8) PRIMOS lip texture volume-lip
(9) PRIMOS lip texture number-lip
(10) Self-assessment-lip, perilabial
Detection description:
1) The skin moisture content, skin moisture tester Corneometer CM825, the detection period is T0, T5min, T2h, T24h, D3 (T represents time, D represents days), the measurement area is lip, the test principle is based on the fact that the dielectric constant (< 7) of water (81) and other substances changes considerably, according to the difference of water content, the capacitance of the skin changes along with the change of the capacitance of the skin, and the capacitance of the skin is in the measuring range, so that the moisture content of the skin can be measured.
2) Skin percutaneous moisture loss: the test period of the test probe Tewameter TM Nano for the ultra-small skin moisture loss TEWL is T0, T5min, T2h, T24h and D3, the test part is a lip, and the test principle is from Fick's diffusion law:
dm/dt= -d·a·dp/dx, wherein dm/dt is the amount of water evaporated per hour, D is the usual, a is the area, dp/dx is the pressure difference mmHg between the upper and lower sensors.
3) Skin elasticity R2, skin compactness F4, skin elasticity tester Cutometer dual MPA580, test cycle is T0, T5min, T2h, T24h, D3, and the test position is the lip, and the test principle is based on suction and tensile principle, and the skin is sucked into a specific test probe to the negative pressure that produces on the skin surface that is tested, and the degree of skin suction into the test probe is through a noncontact optical test system measurement. The test probe includes a light emitter and receiver therein, the ratio of light (the ratio of emitted light to received light) being proportional to the depth of skin being sucked in, and then analyzed by MPA software to determine the elastic properties of the skin.
4) VISIA-CR lip skin glossiness parameter, lip circumference skin glossiness parameter, face image analyzer for test, test period is T0, T5min, T2h, T24h, D3, test part is full face photographing and lip circumference are analyzed. The VISIA-CR has a variety of light source modes: standard light, UV light, cross polarized light, parallel polarized light. Due to the use of multiple light sources, the visual-CR greatly enhances the visibility of the skin to be analyzed. The RBX technology special for Canfield corporation gathers a great deal of research experience of colorimetry, provides melanin and vascular conditions of the lower layer of skin for vast researchers, and is a brand new method for detecting, displaying and analyzing the lower layer of skin. A photographing process comprises a plurality of light source modes, and at most seven pictures can be obtained. The VISIA-CR instrument is provided with Mirror Photo Tools image management special software, and the shot images can be directly stored in a computer, so that the search and the image comparison are facilitated.
5) PRIMOS lip texture area, volume, number. The skin rapid optical imaging system PRIMOS-CR has test periods of T0, T5min, T2h, T24h and D3, the test part is a lip, and the test principle is a digital optical three-dimensional image analysis instrument developed on the basis of a digital microscopic fringe projector. Stripe light having a sinusoidal density at the time of testing is projected onto the skin or the surface of the object under test. The stripe light will be bent and deformed due to the uneven surface of the skin or the measured object, and the CCD camera placed at a specific angle will record the change at the same time. By testing the position change of the stripe light and the gray values of all image points, a digital three-dimensional image of the whole test skin surface or test object can be obtained. Different stripe lights can be selected for projection according to different testing tasks.
6) Self-evaluation: the "very disagreement" is classified as 1,2, 3, 4, 5, and "disagreement".
Experimental operation:
time T0: subject visit, the laboratory technician performs inquiry screening on the lip skin condition of the subject, and the subjects meeting the selection condition enter a group; cleaning lips and waiting: the subject cleans the lips with clear water and dries the skin with dry facial tissues and sits still in a laboratory at a temperature of 21+ -1deg.C and a humidity of 50+ -10% RH for 20min; lip skin basal value data acquisition of test subjects: a laboratory technician operates a Corneometer, tewameter TM Nano and PRIMOS-CR, cutometer, VISIA-CR instrument to determine the relevant index base value of the tested part of the subject; the subject received the product, test precautions, instructions for use of the product, and used the product once (thick lip and perilabial) under the direction of the laboratory technician; and reminds the subject not to drink water and touch the lips for 2 hours.
T5min: the subject was allowed to sit for 5min in a laboratory at 21.+ -. 1 ℃ and 50.+ -. 10% RH, and the relevant index was determined at the test site of the subject by a laboratory technician operating a Corneometer, tewameter TM Nano, PRIMOS-CR, cutometer, VISIA-CR instrument. Sitting still for 2 hours in a laboratory with a temperature of 21+/-1 ℃ and a humidity of 50+/-10% RH, and carrying out related index measurement on a tested part of a subject by a laboratory technician by operating Corneometer, tewameter TM Nano and PRIMOS-CR, cutometer, VISIA-CR instruments; the subject completed a self-assessment questionnaire; the subject left the laboratory and was reminded to use the product multiple times before the next return visit and applied thick before sleep.
T24h and D3: subject return visit: cleaning lips and waiting, the subject cleaning lips with clear water, wiping the lips with dry facial tissues, resting in a laboratory at a temperature of 21±1 ℃ and a humidity of 50±10%rh for 20min; the subject completed the self-assessment questionnaire at rest for 20min; a laboratory technician operates a Corneometer, tewameter TM Nano, PRIMOS-CR, cutometer, VISIA-CR instrument to perform a related index determination on a test site of a subject; the subject left the laboratory.
The data analysis method comprises the following steps: the statistical analysis software is SPSS. If the numerical value is normally distributed, adopting a T test method to carry out statistical analysis; if the numerical value is in non-normal distribution, adopting a rank sum test method to carry out statistical analysis; the statistical methods all use a two-tailed test with a test level α=0.05. The questionnaire result statistical method comprises the following steps: counting the number of people with score not less than 4; statistical analysis using binomial distribution with the expected value set to 0.5 and the significance level α=0.05, if the p value is less than 0.05, indicates a significant difference. The security evaluation adopts a statistical description method, and the adverse event degree and the duration of the adverse event are analyzed example by example. Wherein, improvement rate = (post-use test value-pre-use value)/post-use value × 100%
TABLE 2 results of moisture content in skin stratum corneum
Measurement value: the higher the moisture content value of the skin cuticle, the more moist the skin.
Interpretation of results: 5 minutes after the test product example 1 is used by the subject singly, the moisture content of the skin stratum corneum is obviously increased (p < 0.001) compared with a basal value, and the rising rate is 106.01%; the subject had a significant increase in skin stratum corneum moisture content (p < 0.001) from the basal value 2 hours after a single use of the test example 1 sample, at a rate of 113.43%; after 24 hours, the moisture content of the skin horny layer was significantly increased compared with the basal value (p < 0.001), and the increase rate was 34.59%. After 3 days, the moisture content of the skin horny layer was significantly increased compared with the basal value (p < 0.001), and the rate of increase was 53.93%. Example 5 compares to example 1 and is quite effective, with no significant increase due to doubling of the active; examples 2-4 have lower efficacy than examples 1 and 5, respectively, due to reduced active addition, while the comparative examples have the lowest improvement results due to the absence of efficacy active.
TABLE 3 skin percutaneous moisture loss value test results
Measurement value: the lower the percutaneous moisture loss value of the skin, the better the skin barrier function.
The results demonstrate that 5 minutes after the single use of the sample of example 1, there is no significant change in the skin transdermal moisture loss value (p.gtoreq.0.05) from the basal value; the skin water loss value is remarkably reduced (p < 0.001) compared with the basal value after being used for 2 hours and 24 hours, and the reduction rate is 3.48 percent and 6.58 percent. The subject used the example 1 sample continuously for 3 days, and the skin percutaneous water loss value was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the basal value, with a reduction rate of 13.83%. Example 5 data was slightly higher than example 1, and next examples 2-3, weaker than examples 1, 5, and lower than comparative examples, with no significant decrease in both 5min and 2 h. The percutaneous dehydration is a long-term process, and a certain time (more than or equal to 2 hours) is needed to achieve the effect.
TABLE 4 skin elasticity R2 test results
Measurement value: the higher the skin elasticity R2 value, the better the skin elasticity.
The results demonstrate that the subject has a significant increase in skin elasticity R2 (p < 0.001) from the basal value over 5 minutes with a single use of the test example 1 sample, at a rate of 42.82%; with 2 hours of use, the skin elasticity R2 is significantly increased compared with the basal value (p < 0.001), the rate of increase is 45.70%; with 24 hours, the skin elasticity R2 was significantly increased (p < 0.001) from the basal value, with an increase rate of 18.38%. After 3 days of use, the skin elasticity R2 increased significantly compared to the basal value (p < 0.001), with a rate of increase of 28.14%. Example 5 compares to example 1, with the results approaching, and the comparative example values are lower.
TABLE 5 skin firmness F4 test results
Measurement value: the lower the skin firmness F4 value, the tighter the skin.
The results explain that 5 minutes after the single use of the sample of example 1, the skin firmness F4 was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the basal value by 29.65%; after 2 hours, skin firmness F4 was significantly reduced compared to the basal value (p < 0.001), at a reduction rate of 33.10%; with 24 hours, the skin firmness F4 was significantly reduced compared to the basal value (p < 0.001), with a reduction rate of 15.99%. With 3 days of use, the skin firmness F4 was significantly reduced compared to the basal value (p < 0.001), with a reduction rate of 22.40%. Example 5 compares to example 1, with the results being close, with examples 2-4 being lower than examples 1, 5, and the comparative example being the lowest value.
TABLE 6VISIA-CR lip skin gloss parameter test results
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Measurement value: the higher the VISIA-CR lip skin gloss parameter value, the more shiny the skin.
The results demonstrate that the subject had a significant increase in the skin gloss parameter of the VISIA-CR lip (p < 0.001) from the basal value at a rate of 289.89% for a single use of the example 1 sample for 5 minutes; with 2 hours, the skin gloss parameter of the VISIA-CR lip was significantly increased (p < 0.001) from the basal value by 283.64%; the skin glossiness parameter of the VISIA-CR lip is obviously improved (p is more than or equal to 0.01 and less than or equal to 0.05) compared with the basal value after 24 hours, and the improvement rate is 52.51 percent. After 3 days, the skin gloss parameter of the VISIA-CR lip was significantly increased (0.01. Ltoreq.p < 0.05) compared to the basal value, with a rate of increase of 73.00%. This suggests that gloss has a timely effect, while the in vitro and in vivo environmental impact of the gloss receptor is reduced over time. Example 5 compared with example 1, example 5 has higher gloss, indicating that higher grease content increases gloss; the next is that examples 2-4 are lower than examples 1, 5, while the comparative example has the lowest value.
TABLE 7VISIA-CR perilabial skin gloss parameter test results
Measurement value: the higher the value of the ViSIA-CR perilabial skin gloss parameter, the more shiny the skin.
The results demonstrate that 5 minutes after a single use of the example 1 sample by the subject, the skin gloss parameter around the lip of the ViSIA-CR was significantly increased (p < 0.001) compared to the basal value, with a rate of increase of 200.97%; after 2 hours, the skin gloss parameter around the VISIA-CR lip was significantly increased (p < 0.001) from the basal value by 250.87%; the skin glossiness parameter around the VISIA-CR lip is obviously improved (p is more than or equal to 0.01 and less than or equal to 0.05) compared with the basic value after 24 hours, and the improvement rate is 51.62 percent. The skin glossiness parameter around the VISIA-CR lip is obviously improved (p is more than or equal to 0.001 and less than or equal to 0.01) compared with the basic value after 3 days, and the improvement rate is 118.61 percent. This suggests that gloss has a timely effect, while the in vitro and in vivo environmental impact of the gloss receptor is reduced over time. Example 5 compared with example 1, example 5 has higher gloss, indicating that higher grease content increases gloss; the next is that examples 2-4 are lower than examples 1, 5, while the comparative example has the lowest value.
TABLE 8PRIMOS lip texture area detection results
Measurement value: the lower the PRIMOS lip texture area value, the smaller the lip texture area.
The results demonstrate that the PRIMOS lip texture area was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the base value after 5 minutes of single use of the example 1 sample by the subject, at a rate of 8.13%; with 2 hours of use, PRIMOS lip texture area was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the base value, with a reduction of 5.45%; with 24 hours, PRIMOS lip texture area was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the base value, with a 9.51% reduction. After 3 days, the PRIMOS lip texture area was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the base value by 10.89%. Example 5 compares to example 1, with the results being close, with examples 2-4 being lower than examples 1, 5, and the comparative example being the lowest value.
TABLE 9PRIMOS lip texture volume detection results
Measurement value: the lower the PRIMOS lip texture volume value, the smaller the lip texture volume.
The results demonstrate that there was no significant change in PRIMOS lip texture volume from the basal value (p ≡0.05) 5 minutes after single use of the example 1 sample by the subject; after 2 hours of use, the PRIMOS lip texture volume has no significant change (p is more than or equal to 0.05) compared with a basic value; the PRIMOS lip texture volume was significantly reduced (0.001. Ltoreq.p < 0.01) from the base value at a reduction of 10.39% using 24 hours. The PRIMOS lip texture volume was significantly reduced (0.001. Ltoreq.p < 0.01) from the base value over 3 days, at a reduction of 10.62%. Example 5 compares to example 1, with the results being close, with examples 2-4 being lower than examples 1, 5, and the comparative example being the lowest value.
TABLE 10PRIMOS lip texture quantity detection results
Measurement value: the lower the PRIMOS lip texture number value, the lower the lip texture number.
The results demonstrate that subjects used the example 1 sample for 5 minutes at a single time, the PRIMOS lip texture number was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the basal value, with a reduction rate of 33.68%; after 2 hours, the PRIMOS lip texture number was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the base value, with a 32.18% reduction; after 24 hours, the PRIMOS lip texture number was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the base value, with a reduction of 27.67%. After 3 days, the PRIMOS lip texture number was significantly reduced (p < 0.001) from the base value by 35.41%. Example 5 compares to example 1, with the results being close, with examples 2-4 being lower than examples 1, 5, and the comparative example being the lowest value.
Table 11 subject self-evaluation
For example sample 1, 93.94% of the subjects considered the product to have a clear and well absorbed texture, considered the lips to be more elastic after use, considered the lips to be fuller and plump after use, 96.97% of the subjects considered the product to have an effect of improving gloss on the lips, 87.88% of the subjects considered the product to have a clear improvement on the lips, and 100% of the subjects considered the product to be mild and not irritating. Example 5 was less clear, probably due to higher grease content, and other efficacy evaluations were similar to example 1, followed by examples 2-3, with lower efficacy than examples 1, 5, but better skin feel clarity, better comparative clarity, but lower other efficacy data.
The foregoing is merely exemplary embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention, and all equivalent modifications made by the present invention or direct or indirect application in the relevant art are intended to be included in the scope of the present invention.
Claims (10)
1. The light-pattern repairing lip cream is characterized by comprising, by weight, 40-80% of a water phase composition, 1-5% of an emulsifying agent and 15-55% of an oil phase composition;
the aqueous phase composition comprises a solvent, a humectant, a preservative and a skin conditioning agent;
the emulsifier consists of a main emulsifier and an auxiliary emulsifier, wherein the main emulsifier is sucrose stearate, and is specifically one or more of sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose behenate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate and sucrose polyoleate; the auxiliary emulsifier is one or more of lecithin, hydrogenated lecithin, stearyl alcohol polyether-21, 18 acid/stearic acid and cetostearyl alcohol;
the oil phase composition comprises grease, a thickener, an antioxidant and a skin conditioner.
2. The light streak repair lip cream as in claim 1 wherein the solvent is water.
3. The light streak repair lip cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the humectant is one or more of sodium hyaluronate and its derivatives, allantoin, betaine, tremella polysaccharide, algal polysaccharide, D-panthenol, polyalcohol, allantoin, and urea.
4. The light streak repair lip cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the preservative is one or more of p-hydroxyacetophenone, 1, 2-hexanediol, pentanediol, propylene glycol, ethylhexyl glycerol, and octanediol.
5. The light streak repair lip cream as in claim 1 wherein the skin conditioning agent in the aqueous phase composition is one or more of citrus fruit extract, fructose, olive leaf extract.
6. The light streak repair lip cream of claim 1, wherein the lipid is one or more of avocado oil, olive oil, phytosterols, shea butter, cocoa butter, small fruit coffee seed oil, white pool seed oil, plant squalane, jojoba oil, caprylic/capric triglycerides, C10-18 triglycerides of fatty acids, hexyldecanol myristoyl methylaminopropionate.
7. The light streak repair lip cream as in claim 1 wherein the thickening agent is one or more of beeswax, stearic acid, cetostearyl alcohol, microcrystalline wax, synthetic wax.
8. The light streak repair lip cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the antioxidant is one or more of VE, VE acetate and oryzanol.
9. The light streak repair lip cream as claimed in claim 1, wherein the skin conditioning agent in the oil phase composition is one or more of lipophilic vitamin C, 4-dipalmitoyl proline, hydroxypropyl dipalmitoylamide.
10. A method for preparing the light streak repair lip cream according to claim 1, which is characterized in that the specific preparation method comprises the following steps of,
(1) Accurately weighing the water phase raw materials into a main pot, stirring at 20-30rpm, heating to 85 ℃, continuing stirring for 10-15 minutes, stirring until the water phase raw materials are completely dissolved, and preserving heat and stirring for 10 minutes;
(2) Adding the oil phase raw material and the emulsifier into an oil pan, stirring at 400-600rpm, heating to 70-75 ℃, and continuously stirring for 10-15 minutes until the oil phase raw material and the emulsifier are uniformly dispersed;
(3) Stirring the water phase at 20-30rpm, slowly pumping the oil pan raw material into the main pan, stirring at 20-30rpm, homogenizing at 3000rpm, and homogenizing for 3 min; after homogenization is completed, preserving heat and stirring for 10-15 minutes; then stirring and cooling to 60-65 ℃;
(4) Cooling the main pot to 40-45 ℃, adding the active substances and the preservative which are not resistant to high temperature into the main pot, stirring for 20-30rpm, homogenizing for 2500rpm, and homogenizing for 3 minutes; cooling to 30 ℃ with chilled water after homogenization is completed;
(5) Sampling and detecting, filtering and discharging by using 100-mesh filter cloth after the sample is qualified, wherein the discharging temperature is 30 ℃.
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