CN115919687B - Moisturizing cleansing composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Moisturizing cleansing composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN115919687B
CN115919687B CN202211487160.4A CN202211487160A CN115919687B CN 115919687 B CN115919687 B CN 115919687B CN 202211487160 A CN202211487160 A CN 202211487160A CN 115919687 B CN115919687 B CN 115919687B
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cleansing composition
moisturizing
phase
emulsifier
sucrose laurate
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CN115919687A (en
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李卓林
周利斌
唐杰
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Guangzhou Qianrui Biotechnology Co ltd
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Guangzhou Qianrui Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • YGENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02ATECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE
    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
    • Y02A50/30Against vector-borne diseases, e.g. mosquito-borne, fly-borne, tick-borne or waterborne diseases whose impact is exacerbated by climate change

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Abstract

The invention relates to a moisturizing cleansing composition, a preparation method and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The invention provides a moisturizing cleansing composition which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.24 to 0.66 percent of chelating agent, 5.09 to 10.24 percent of humectant and 1.5 to 5 percent of emulsifying agent; the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA and octanoyl hydroxamic acid; the humectant comprises octylglycol; the emulsifier comprises sucrose laurate and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20. The cleansing composition provided by the invention is compounded with the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, can be synergistic, and has a remarkable cleansing effect on color cosmetics. And the cleansing composition is compounded with other components to inhibit bacteria, so that the cleansing composition has better mildness, can completely remove makeup, has small skin irritation and has a certain moisturizing effect.

Description

Moisturizing cleansing composition and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a moisturizing cleansing composition, a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
In order to achieve both freshness and transparent appearance (formula stability), the selection range of the emulsifier is relatively narrow, and the makeup removing force for oily makeup (such as lipstick, eye shadow and the like) is generally weak, so that the conditions of incomplete makeup removal and more residues are easy to occur. In addition, the main component of the makeup removing water system is free water, and compared with systems such as makeup removing oil/cream, makeup removing emulsion and the like, the environment with high water content is more beneficial to the growth and propagation of microorganisms. Thus, make-up remover formulations generally require higher amounts of preservative to be added, but at the same time this also results in relatively higher irritation, especially eye irritation.
The humectant which can be added in the cleansing water is usually polyalcohol, polysaccharide, amino acid and the like, and the humectant generally has better moisture absorption capacity and better moisture preservation effect in resident products. But has general water locking capability, and the components have strong water solubility, the application in the leaching products is easy to be washed in a large amount, so that the moisturizing effect is limited. However, if the moisture retention capacity in the cleansing water is insufficient, the skin is lack of water after long-term use, so that the skin is aged and lacks gloss.
Therefore, the cleansing product which can comprehensively remove the makeup and has small skin irritation and a certain moisturizing effect is prepared.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the problems in the prior art and provide a moisturizing cleansing composition, a preparation method and application thereof.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
The invention provides a moisturizing cleansing composition which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.24 to 0.66 percent of chelating agent, 5.09 to 10.24 percent of humectant and 1.5 to 5 percent of emulsifying agent; the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA and octanoyl hydroxamic acid; the humectant comprises octylglycol; the emulsifier comprises sucrose laurate and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20.
The cleansing composition provided by the invention is compounded with the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, can be synergistically enhanced, and has a remarkable cleansing effect on oily color cosmetics (such as lipstick, eye shadow, foundation make-up and the like) and aqueous color cosmetics. And the octanoyl hydroxamic acid, the octanoyl glycol and the EDTA disodium are compounded according to a proper proportion to perform bacteriostasis, so that the traditional preservative is replaced, the makeup removing composition has better mildness, can comprehensively remove makeup, has small skin irritation and has a certain moisturizing effect.
The sucrose laurate emulsifier is a natural sucrose-derived nonionic emulsifier (such as RYOTO TM SUGAR ESTER L-1695), has good skin adhesion property on hydrophilic and lipophilic ends, and is still mild, safe and non-irritating to sensitive eyes; in the makeup removing process, the longer fatty chain of the cleansing cream can be better dissolved with oily substances in the makeup, and the sucrose laurate has higher affinity with skin, can be dispersed and permeated along the skin more quickly, so that the effect of high-efficiency makeup dissolving is achieved; after cleansing and flushing, a thin water-locking film can be formed on the surface of the skin, so that the loss of percutaneous water is reduced. Cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 is a nonionic surfactant suitable for formulation of oil-in-water emulsifiers, such asCE 200F is a mild nonionic O/W emulsifier which is completely soluble in water, has strong emulsifying capacity and can enhance the cleansing power and the cleaning effect. The composition disclosed by the invention is prepared by compounding the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, can completely remove oily color cosmetics and aqueous color cosmetics, has small skin irritation, can form a thin water-locking film on the surface of skin after being used, and has a certain moisturizing property.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition, the moisturizing agent comprises 0.045-0.12% of octanediol, 0.045-0.12% of glycerol and 5-10% of 1, 3-propanediol by mass of the moisturizing cleansing composition.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition of the present invention, the chelating agent comprises 0.03 to 0.1% of disodium EDTA and 0.21 to 0.56% of octanoyl hydroxamic acid by mass of the moisturizing cleansing composition.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition of the present invention, the emulsifier comprises 1% to 3% of sucrose laurate and 0.5% to 2% of cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 by mass of the moisturizing cleansing composition.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition, the composition further comprises a solvent accounting for 84.1 to 93.17 percent of the composition.
The solvent is preferably water, and the cleansing water obtained from the moisturizing cleansing composition and the water has excellent moisturizing cleansing performance, good stability, no preservative and small skin irritation.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition of the present invention, the mass ratio of the sucrose laurate to the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 is (1-3): (0.5-2).
Preferably, the sucrose laurate is sold under the trade name RYOTO TM SUGAR ESTER L-1695; the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 has the trade name ofCE 200F。
Preferably, the moisturizing cleansing composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05% EDTA disodium, 0.28% octanoyl hydroxamic acid, 0.06% octanol glycol, 0.06% glycerol, 8%1, 3-propanediol, 2% sucrose laurate, 1% cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, balance water.
The invention further aims at providing a preparation method of the moisturizing cleansing composition, which comprises the following steps of:
(1) Mixing the EDTA disodium with a solvent, heating and preserving heat to obtain a phase A;
(2) Mixing octanoyl hydroxamic acid and humectant, adding emulsifier, heating, and stirring to obtain phase B;
(3) Adding phase B into phase A, stirring to transparent and clear, and cooling.
Because the sucrose laurate emulsifier is easy to agglomerate and difficult to dissolve in water at normal temperature, the invention solves the problem that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is difficult to dissolve in water by mixing the sucrose laurate emulsifier with humectant 1, 3-propanediol and emulsifier cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 and then heating. The moisturizing cleansing composition prepared by the invention has good stability, and solves the problem that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is difficult to dissolve in water.
As a preferred embodiment of the production method of the present invention, in the step (1), the heating temperature is 85 ℃ to 90 ℃.
As a preferred embodiment of the production method of the present invention, in the step (2), the heating temperature is 75 ℃ to 80 ℃.
It is still another object of the present invention to provide the use of the moisturizing cleansing composition in cosmetics.
The moisturizing cleansing composition can be compounded with common components in the field of cosmetics and can be widely applied to the field of cosmetics.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. The invention adopts the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 emulsifier to compound, so that the composition has excellent makeup removing capability. Sucrose laurate emulsifier (such as RYOTO TM SUGAR ESTER L-1695) has stronger cleansing power for lipstick, eye shadow, foundation and other oily color cosmetics; while cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 emulsifiers (e.g CE 200F) provides greater make-up removal for aqueous make-up such as eyeliner and provides better rinse results. The sucrose laurate emulsifier and the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 are combined according to a proper proportion to carry out synergistic interaction, so that the cleaning effect of the composition on different types of make-up is improved.
2. The composition adopts the sucrose laurate emulsifier which is a natural sucrose source and has low irritation, and is compounded with octanoyl hydroxamic acid, octanoyl glycol and EDTA disodium with antibacterial effect according to a proper proportion to perform antibacterial, so that the traditional preservative is replaced, and the mildness of the composition is further improved.
3. The sucrose laurate emulsifier is easy to agglomerate in water at normal temperature and is difficult to dissolve, and the preparation method can solve the problem that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is difficult to dissolve in water through a special solubilization process (after being mixed with 1, 3-propanediol and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 and heated to 75-80 ℃).
4. The composition can form a layer of film on skin after makeup removal and washing, provides a good moisturizing effect by reducing the loss of percutaneous moisture, and avoids the phenomena of easy drying, tightening and the like after makeup removal of common makeup removal water.
Detailed Description
For a better description of the objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to the following specific examples. It will be appreciated by persons skilled in the art that the specific embodiments described herein are for purposes of illustration only and are not intended to be limiting.
The test methods used in the examples are conventional methods unless otherwise specified; the materials, reagents and the like used, unless otherwise specified, are all commercially available.
Examples
The sucrose laurate emulsifier adopted in the examples and the comparative examples is sold under the trade name RYOTO TM SUGAR ESTER L-1695 and is purchased from Shanghai Daniel biological New Material technology Co., ltd; cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 under the trade nameCE 200F, available from wakame chemical (Shanghai) limited.
Examples 1-3 are all embodiments of the moisturizing cleansing composition of the present invention, and the composition ratios are shown in table 1.
The preparation method of the moisturizing cleansing composition of examples 1-3 comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing EDTA disodium and water, stirring uniformly, heating to 88 ℃, and preserving heat for 20 minutes to obtain a phase A;
(2) Pre-dissolving octanoyl hydroxamic acid, humectant octanol, glycerol and 1, 3-propanediol, uniformly mixing, sequentially adding emulsifying agents sucrose laurate and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, heating to 78 ℃, and uniformly stirring to obtain phase B;
(3) Slowly pouring the phase B into the phase A, and stirring until the phase B is transparent and clear; cooling to room temperature, filtering with filter cloth, and discharging.
Comparative examples 1 to 9 are all moisturizing cleansing compositions, and comparative examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 8 to 9 are the same as the preparation method of example 1, except for the content of the components. Comparative example 7 the procedure was the same as in example 1 except that the component content was different, and the heating temperature in step (2) of the production process was 74 ℃. The proportions of the components of comparative examples 1 to 9 are shown in Table 1.
Table 1 the component content/%of the moisturizing make-up removal compositions of the examples and comparative examples
Test examples
1. Safety test
1. Closed patch test
Test article: moisturizing cleansing compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9;
Negative control: water;
The subject: 50 women, 18-57 years old, meet the volunteer selection criteria of the subjects;
the testing method comprises the following steps: selecting a qualified patch tester, coating 0.03ml of a test object into the patch tester by a closed patch test method, applying a special adhesive tape for external use on the back of a subject, removing the test object after 24 hours, observing skin changes respectively after 0.5 hours, 24 hours and 48 hours after the patch test, and recording the results according to skin reaction grade standard in cosmetic safety technical Specification (2015 edition), wherein the detailed table 2 is shown.
Table 2 results of patch test for examples and comparative examples
From the data of 2, it can be seen that the components of the composition of the present invention are safe and non-irritating, comparative example 6 has no sucrose laurate, but contains 2% of methylparaben, and the use of the preservative methylparaben also has the greatest skin irritation and other subjects have no skin irritation.
2. Acute skin and eyes test for rabbit eyes
The testing method comprises the following steps: acute skin and acute eye tests were performed according to standard methods specified in cosmetic safety Specification (2015 edition), treatment group: examples 1-3, negative control: water; the test results are shown in Table 3 below.
TABLE 3 results of acute skin and acute eye tests for Rabbit eyes of examples 1-3
The data in Table 3 shows that the composition of the invention is safe and non-irritating, and shows that the composition of the invention adopts natural sucrose source food-grade emulsifier sucrose laurate (RYOTO TM SUGAR ESTER L-1695) with low irritation as a main component, and inhibits bacteria by compounding with octanoyl hydroxamic acid, octanoyl glycol and EDTA disodium according to a proper proportion, so that the mildness of the composition can be further improved by replacing the traditional preservative.
2. Cleansing effect test
The same amount of lipstick, eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara and foundation were applied to the same area of artificial leather, respectively, and after standing for 5 minutes, the test cotton balls were soaked with 1mL of makeup-removing water samples of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9, and the makeup-coated artificial leather was rubbed respectively (load 200 g, repeat 10 times). Recording the makeup removal condition of each product by each makeup remover sample to be detected, and scoring (0-10 points) the makeup remover samples, wherein the higher the score is, the stronger the makeup removal capability is.
120 Female volunteers (age 25-45 years) were randomly selected and divided into 12 groups of 10 persons each, and the makeup remover samples of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-9 were used. The evaluators respectively smear equal amounts of samples on the arms, score the freshness and the moistening degree of the samples in the smearing process (1-10 points, the higher the score is, the better the freshness or the moistening degree is represented), total the scores of the evaluators, calculate the average value, and the result is shown in table 4.
Table 4 cleansing effect and skin feel test results of examples and comparative examples
Table 4 shows that the compositions of examples 1-3 of the present invention are effective in removing lipsticks, foundations, eye shadows, eyeliners, mascaras, and have a good skin feel, and a refreshing and moisturizing effect. The invention is shown to be carried out by emulsifying agent sucrose laurate (RYOTO TM SUGAR ESTER L-1695) and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20%CE 200F) are combined according to a proper proportion to perform synergistic interaction, and the cleaning agent has excellent cleaning effect on different types of make-up.
While the compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2 were added with only one emulsifier, both the cleansing ability and the skin feel were poor. The emulsifier of comparative example 3 is glycerol triisostearate and has poor makeup removing effect. Comparative examples 4 and 5, which use the glyceryl triisostearate in combination with the emulsifier of the single component of the present invention, showed that the makeup removing effect was inferior to that of the examples, indicating that the emulsifier component of the present invention had excellent synergy and that the co-use was able to have a remarkable makeup removing effect. In comparative example 6, sucrose laurate emulsifier was not added, and the same amount of preservative was added, so that the skin irritation was large and the cleansing effect was poor. In comparative example 7, sucrose laurate was not completely dissolved, and the makeup removing power was insufficient. The comparative example 8 has a low content of cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 and the comparative example 9 has a low content of sucrose laurate, and the ratio therebetween is poor, resulting in a decrease in the makeup removing power of the comparative example 8 and the comparative example 9 and a deterioration in skin feel. The composition can achieve the antibacterial effect by adopting the moisturizing component and the emulsifier to be compounded under the condition of not adding the preservative, and has excellent makeup removing result.
3. Moisture effect test
Since water has a very high permittivity, the hydration level of the skin surface layer, i.e. the water content of the stratum corneum, can be measured by the permittivity, the CORNEOMETER-capacitance method is used for skin moisture detection. Skin moisture content is measured by using a skin moisture test probe Corneometer CM 825 of Germany CK company, the measurement process of skin moisture measurement is greatly influenced by ambient temperature and humidity, the ambient test condition is controlled to be 20 ℃ and 50% relative humidity, the moisture test probe is only required to be vertically pressed on the surface of the skin to be tested during the test, the top of the probe is pressed back for a certain distance, a spring is arranged in the probe to enable the top of the probe to keep 0.16N pressure on the surface of the skin, and the skin is tested under the normal room temperature condition (the temperature is 20 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40% -60%).
The specific detection method comprises the following steps: 140 skin-healthy female volunteers aged 20-50 were selected for testing, and were randomized into 14 groups of 10 persons each, using the products of examples 1-3, comparative examples 1-9, negative control (purified water), positive control (Bei Dema (BIODERMA) makeup remover), respectively. After the same simple cleaning and skin care, the 14 groups of test samples are respectively corresponding to 14 test samples in an environment with the temperature of 20+/-1 ℃ and the air humidity of about 50%, and the test samples are smeared on the inner side of the arm according to 1mg/cm 2. After the subject was allowed to sit still in a constant environment for 30 minutes, the blank values of the test sites were measured using a Corneometer, and 5 points were fixedly measured in a certain order using the area, and the average value thereof was obtained. Then, the special person takes charge of smearing the sample and starts timing, the change of the humidity measurement value is measured at each time according to the experimental design, and the change of the skin humidity measurement value in each group of proportion for 8 hours is tested and recorded by using a Corneometer CM 825.
Table 5 results of the moisturizing effect test of examples and comparative examples
The results in Table 5 show that the compositions of examples 1-3 of the present invention have good moisturizing effect, and indicate that the present invention can provide good moisturizing effect by reducing the loss of percutaneous moisture by compounding the sucrose laurate emulsifier with the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 emulsifier, and avoid the phenomena of easy drying, tightening, etc. after the makeup removing of common makeup removing water. The compositions of comparative examples 1 to 9 were inferior to examples 1 to 3 in moisturizing effect, indicating that the compositions of the present invention have excellent synergistic effect, and are capable of ensuring sufficient cleansing power while also having excellent moisturizing performance.
4. Appearance observation
Comparison of makeup remover of example 1 with comparative example 7: example 1 transparent, non-layered at room temperature 25 ℃; comparative example 7 was transparent at room temperature of 25 ℃, but the upper layer was oily substance, the lower layer was water, and the layers were separated.
The side surface shows that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is easy to agglomerate in water at normal temperature to cause difficult dissolution, and the problem that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is difficult to dissolve in water can be solved by a special solubilization process (mixing with 1, 3-propanediol and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 emulsifier and heating to 75-80 ℃).
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention and not for limiting the scope of the present invention, and although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or substituted equally without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims (4)

1. The moisturizing cleansing composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05-0.1% of EDTA disodium, 0.28-0.56% of octanoyl hydroxamic acid, 0.06-0.12% of octanol, 0.06-0.12% of glycerol, 8-10% of 1, 3-propanediol, 2-3% of sucrose laurate, 1-2% of cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20 and the balance of water;
The preparation method of the moisturizing cleansing composition comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing the EDTA disodium with water, heating and preserving heat to obtain a phase A;
(2) Mixing octanoyl hydroxamic acid, octanoyl glycol, glycerol and 1, 3-propylene glycol, adding sucrose laurate and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, heating, and stirring to obtain phase B;
(3) Adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring until the phase A is transparent and clear, and cooling to obtain the product;
in the step (2), the heating temperature is 75-80 ℃.
2. The method for preparing the moisturizing cleansing composition according to claim 1, comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing the EDTA disodium with water, heating and preserving heat to obtain a phase A;
(2) Mixing octanoyl hydroxamic acid, octanoyl glycol, glycerol and 1, 3-propylene glycol, adding sucrose laurate and cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, heating, and stirring to obtain phase B;
(3) Adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring until the phase A is transparent and clear, and cooling to obtain the product;
in the step (2), the heating temperature is 75-80 ℃.
3. The method according to claim 2, wherein in the step (1), the heating temperature is 85 ℃ to 90 ℃.
4. Use of the moisturizing cleansing composition of claim 1 in cosmetics.
CN202211487160.4A 2022-11-24 2022-11-24 Moisturizing cleansing composition and preparation method and application thereof Active CN115919687B (en)

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Citations (4)

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108030764A (en) * 2017-12-28 2018-05-15 花安堂生物科技集团有限公司 A kind of bilayer make up remover and preparation method thereof
CN108938464A (en) * 2018-07-25 2018-12-07 广州依露美化妆品有限公司 A kind of mild makeup remover of deep layer cleaning
CN112842921A (en) * 2021-01-18 2021-05-28 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 Multilayer cleansing lotion and preparation method thereof
CN113952255A (en) * 2021-11-25 2022-01-21 广州天然国度生物科技有限公司 Makeup removing emulsion, preparation method thereof and makeup removing wet tissue

Family Cites Families (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN106963665B (en) * 2017-04-06 2018-02-27 湖南御家化妆品制造有限公司 One group of moisturizing is combined and its is preparing the application of moisture-keeping cosmetics

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108030764A (en) * 2017-12-28 2018-05-15 花安堂生物科技集团有限公司 A kind of bilayer make up remover and preparation method thereof
CN108938464A (en) * 2018-07-25 2018-12-07 广州依露美化妆品有限公司 A kind of mild makeup remover of deep layer cleaning
CN112842921A (en) * 2021-01-18 2021-05-28 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 Multilayer cleansing lotion and preparation method thereof
CN113952255A (en) * 2021-11-25 2022-01-21 广州天然国度生物科技有限公司 Makeup removing emulsion, preparation method thereof and makeup removing wet tissue

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