CN115919687A - Moisturizing makeup removing composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Moisturizing makeup removing composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN115919687A
CN115919687A CN202211487160.4A CN202211487160A CN115919687A CN 115919687 A CN115919687 A CN 115919687A CN 202211487160 A CN202211487160 A CN 202211487160A CN 115919687 A CN115919687 A CN 115919687A
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moisturizing
makeup
emulsifier
removing composition
ceteareth
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CN115919687B (en
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李卓林
周利斌
唐杰
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Guangzhou Qianrui Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • Y02TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
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    • Y02A50/00TECHNOLOGIES FOR ADAPTATION TO CLIMATE CHANGE in human health protection, e.g. against extreme weather
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Abstract

The invention relates to a moisturizing makeup removing composition and a preparation method and application thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The moisturizing makeup removing composition provided by the invention comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.24 to 0.66 percent of chelating agent, 5.09 to 10.24 percent of humectant and 1.5 to 5 percent of emulsifier; the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA and caprylyl hydroximic acid; the humectant comprises caprylyl glycol; the emulsifier includes sucrose laurate and ceteareth-20. The makeup removing composition disclosed by the invention is compounded by the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the ceteareth-20, so that the synergistic effect can be realized, and the makeup removing composition has a remarkable cleaning effect on makeup. And the makeup remover composition is compounded with other components for bacteriostasis to replace the traditional preservative, so that the makeup remover composition has better mildness, can completely remove makeup, has small irritation to skin and has a certain moisturizing effect.

Description

Moisturizing and makeup removing composition as well as preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and particularly relates to a moisturizing makeup removing composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
In order to take account of both the freshness and the transparent appearance (formula stability), the selection range of the emulsifier is relatively narrow, and the makeup removing force of oily makeup (such as lipstick, eye shadow and the like) is generally weak, so that the situations of incomplete makeup removal and more residues are easy to occur. In addition, the makeup removing water system mainly comprises free water, and compared with systems such as makeup removing oil/cream and makeup removing milk, the environment with high water content is more beneficial to the growth and the propagation of microorganisms. Thus, cleansing water formulations generally require higher amounts of preservative added, but at the same time this also results in relatively higher irritation, especially eye irritation.
The moisturizers which can be added into the makeup removing water are usually polyhydric alcohols, polysaccharides, amino acids and the like, and generally have good moisture absorption capacity and good moisturizing effect in resident products. But the water-locking capacity of the components is general, and the components have strong water solubility, so that the components are easy to be washed in a large amount when being applied to rinsing products, thereby causing the limited moisturizing effect. If the moisture retention capacity of the makeup remover is insufficient, the skin is lack of water after long-term use, so that the skin is aged and lacks luster.
Therefore, the preparation of the makeup remover product which can remove the makeup comprehensively and has small skin irritation and certain moisturizing effect is of great significance.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the problems in the prior art and provides a moisturizing makeup removing composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
The invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
the invention provides a moisturizing makeup removing composition which comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.24 to 0.66 percent of chelating agent, 5.09 to 10.24 percent of humectant and 1.5 to 5 percent of emulsifier; the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA and caprylyl hydroximic acid; the humectant comprises caprylyl glycol; the emulsifier includes sucrose laurate and ceteareth-20.
The makeup removing composition disclosed by the invention is compounded by the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the cetostearyl alcohol polyether-20, so that the synergistic effect can be realized, and the makeup removing composition has a remarkable cleaning effect on oil-based makeup (such as lipstick, eye shadow, foundation make-up and the like) and water-based makeup. And the caprylyl hydroximic acid, the caprylyl glycol and the EDTA disodium are compounded according to a proper proportion for bacteriostasis, so that the makeup removing composition replaces the traditional preservative, has better mildness, can remove makeup comprehensively, has small irritation to skin and has a certain moisturizing effect.
The sucrose laurate emulsifier is a natural sucrose-derived nonionic emulsifier (e.g., RYOTO) TM SURAR ESTER L-1695), the hydrophilic and lipophilic ends of which have good skin-adhering properties, remain mild, safe and non-irritating to sensitive eyes; in the makeup removing process, the longer fatty chain can be better dissolved with oily substances in makeup, and the sucrose laurate has higher affinity with the skin and can be more quickly dispersed and permeated along the skin, so that the effect of high-efficiency makeup dissolving is achieved; after makeup removal and washing, a light and thin water-locking film can be formed on the surface of the skin, and the water loss in the skin is reduced. Ceteareth-20 is a non-ionic surfactant suitable for formulating oil-in-water type emulsifiers, such as
Figure BDA0003961499640000021
CE 200F is a mild nonionic O/W emulsifier, is completely soluble in water, has strong emulsifying power, and can enhance makeup removing effect and cleaning effect. The composition provided by the invention is prepared by compounding the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the ceteareth-20, can be used for completely removing oily color cosmetics and aqueous color cosmetics, has small skin irritation, can form a light and thin water-locking film on the surface of skin after being used, and has a certain moisturizing property.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition, the moisturizing agent comprises 0.045-0.12% of octanediol, 0.045-0.12% of glycerin and 5-10% of 1,3-propylene glycol by weight of the moisturizing cleansing composition.
As a preferable embodiment of the moisturizing and cleansing composition, the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA (0.03-0.1 wt%) and caprylhydroxamic acid (0.21-0.56 wt%) of the moisturizing and cleansing composition.
As a preferable embodiment of the moisturizing and makeup removing composition, the emulsifier comprises 1-3% of sucrose laurate and 0.5-2% of ceteareth-20 by mass of the moisturizing and makeup removing composition.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition, the moisturizing cleansing composition further comprises a solvent accounting for 84.1-93.17% of the mass of the moisturizing cleansing composition.
The solvent is preferably water, and the makeup remover obtained by the moisturizing makeup remover composition and the water has excellent moisturizing makeup remover performance, good stability, no preservative and small irritation to skin.
As a preferred embodiment of the moisturizing cleansing composition, the mass ratio of the sucrose laurate to the ceteareth-20 is (1-3): (0.5-2).
Preferably, the sucrose laurate is under the trade name RYOTO TM SURAR ESTER L-1695; the ceteareth-20 is sold under the trade name
Figure BDA0003961499640000022
CE 200F。
Preferably, the moisturizing and cleansing composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05% of disodium EDTA, 0.28% of caprylhydroxamic acid, 0.06% of caprylyl glycol, 0.06% of glycerin, 8% of 1, 3-propanediol, 2% of sucrose laurate, 1% of ceteareth-20, and the balance water.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the moisturizing and makeup removing composition, which comprises the following steps:
(1) Mixing the EDTA disodium and a solvent, heating and preserving heat to obtain a phase A;
(2) Mixing the octanoyl hydroximic acid and the humectant uniformly, adding the emulsifier, heating and stirring uniformly to obtain a phase B;
(3) Adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring until the mixture is transparent and clear, and cooling to obtain the final product.
Because the sucrose laurate emulsifier is easy to agglomerate and difficult to dissolve in water at normal temperature, the sucrose laurate emulsifier is mixed with the humectant 1,3-propylene glycol and the emulsifier ceteareth-20 and then heated, so that the problem that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is difficult to dissolve in water is solved. The moisturizing and makeup removing composition prepared by the invention has good stability, and solves the problem that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is difficult to dissolve in water.
As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, in the step (1), the heating temperature is 85 ℃ to 90 ℃.
As a preferred embodiment of the preparation method of the present invention, in the step (2), the heating temperature is 75 ℃ to 80 ℃.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a use of the moisturizing makeup remover composition in cosmetics.
The moisturizing and cleansing composition can be compounded with common components in the field of cosmetics, and can be widely applied to the field of cosmetics.
The invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the composition is compounded by adopting the sucrose laurate emulsifier and the ceteareth-20 emulsifier, so that the composition has excellent makeup removing capability. Sucrose laurate emulsifiers (e.g., RYOTO) TM SURAR ESTER L-1695) has stronger makeup removing effect on oil color cosmetics such as lipstick, eye shadow, foundation make-up, etc.; and ceteareth-20 emulsifiers (e.g., sodium cetyl stearyl alcohol)
Figure BDA0003961499640000031
CE 200F) is more effective in removing makeup from aqueous color cosmetics such as eyeliner and provides better rinsing effect. The sucrose laurate emulsifier and the ceteareth-20 are combined according to a proper proportion for synergistic interaction, so that the cleaning effect of the composition on different types of color cosmetics is improved.
2. The composition provided by the invention selects the sucrose laurate emulsifier with low irritation and natural sucrose source, and is compounded with caprylyl hydroxamic acid, caprylyl glycol and EDTA disodium with an antibacterial effect according to a proper proportion for bacteriostasis, so that the traditional preservative is replaced for addition, and the mildness of the composition is further improved.
3. The sucrose laurate emulsifier is easy to agglomerate in water at normal temperature and is difficult to dissolve, and the preparation method can solve the problem of difficult dissolution in water by a special solubilization process (mixing the sucrose laurate emulsifier with 1,3-propylene glycol and ceteareth-20 and then heating the mixture to 75-80 ℃).
4. The composition can form a layer of film on the skin after makeup removal and washing, provides a better moisturizing effect by reducing the water loss through skin, and avoids the phenomena of easy drying, tightness and the like after the makeup removal by common makeup removing water.
Detailed Description
To better illustrate the objects, aspects and advantages of the present invention, the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples. It will be understood by those skilled in the art that the specific embodiments described herein are merely illustrative of the invention and are not intended to limit the invention.
The test methods used in the examples are all conventional methods unless otherwise specified; the materials, reagents and the like used are commercially available unless otherwise specified.
Examples
The sucrose laurate emulsifier used in the examples and comparative examples of the present invention is sold under the trade name RYOTO TM SURAR ESTER L-1695, available from SANDOL BIO NEW MATERIAL TECHNOLOGY CO.; ceteareth-20 is available under the trade name ceteareth-20
Figure BDA0003961499640000041
CE 200F, available from Wavor chemical (Shanghai) Inc.
Examples 1-3 are embodiments of the moisturizing makeup remover composition of the present invention, with the component ratios shown in table 1.
The moisturizing makeup remover compositions of examples 1-3 were prepared by the following method:
(1) Mixing EDTA disodium and water, stirring uniformly, heating to 88 ℃, and preserving heat for 20 minutes to obtain phase A;
(2) Pre-dissolving caprylyl hydroximic acid, humectant capryl glycol, glycerin and 1,3-propylene glycol, mixing uniformly, sequentially adding emulsifier sucrose laurate and cetostearyl polyether-20, heating to 78 deg.C, and stirring uniformly to obtain phase B;
(3) Slowly pouring the phase B into the phase A, and stirring to be in a transparent and clear state; cooling to room temperature, filtering with filter cloth, and discharging.
Comparative examples 1 to 9 are each a moisturizing makeup remover composition, and comparative examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 8 to 9 are the same as those of example 1 except for the difference in the content of the components. Comparative example 7 the heating temperature in step (2) of the preparation method was 74 c, except that the contents of the components were different, and the rest was the same as in example 1. The component proportions of comparative examples 1 to 9 are shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 component contents/% of moisturizing makeup-removing compositions of examples and comparative examples
Figure BDA0003961499640000051
Test examples
1. Safety test
1. Closed patch test
The test substance: moisturizing makeup remover compositions of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9;
negative control: water;
subject: 50 women, age 18-57 years, were eligible for volunteer enrollment by the subject;
the test method comprises the following steps: selecting a qualified spot tester, coating 0.03ml of a test object in the spot tester by a closed spot test method, externally applying a special adhesive tape to the back of the test object, removing the test object after 24 hours, observing skin changes at 0.5h, 24h and 48h after the spot test, recording results according to skin reaction level standards in technical Specification for cosmetic safety (2015 edition), and details in Table 2.
Table 2 test results of patches for examples and comparative examples
Figure BDA0003961499640000061
/>
Figure BDA0003961499640000071
From the data of 2, it can be seen that the components of the composition of the present invention are safe and non-irritating, comparative example 6 contains no sucrose laurate, but contains 2% methylparaben, with the preservative methylparaben being the most irritating to the skin, and the other test substances being non-irritating to the skin.
2. Rabbit eye acute skin and acute eye test
The test method comprises the following steps: acute skin urgency was tested according to standard procedures specified in the technical specifications for cosmetic safety (2015 edition), treatment groups: examples 1-3, negative control: water; the test results are shown in Table 3 below.
TABLE 3 Rabbit eye acute skin urgency eye test results of examples 1-3
Figure BDA0003961499640000081
The data in Table 3 show that the compositions of the present invention are safe and non-irritating, indicating that the compositions of the present invention employ the food grade emulsifier sucrose laurate (RYOTO) which is a source of natural sucrose having low irritation TM SUGAR ESTER L-1695), and is compounded with caprylyl hydroximic acid, caprylyl glycol and EDTA disodium according to a proper proportion for bacteriostasis, and replaces the traditional preservative for addition, so that the mildness of the composition can be further improved.
2. Makeup removal effect test
The same type of lipstick, eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara, and foundation were applied to the same area of artificial leather, respectively, and after standing for 5min, the test cotton ball was soaked with 1mL of the cleansing water samples of examples 1 to 3 and comparative examples 1 to 9, and the artificial leather coated with the color cosmetic product was wiped off (load 200 g, repeat 10 times), respectively. And recording the makeup removing condition of each makeup removing water sample to be detected on each product, and scoring (0-10 points), wherein the higher the score is, the stronger the makeup removing capability is.
120 female volunteers (age 25-45 years) were randomly selected and divided into 12 groups of 10 persons each, corresponding to the cleansing water samples of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-9, and subjected to the use test. The evaluators apply equal amount of samples on the arms respectively, and score the refreshing degree and the moistening degree in the application process of the samples (1-10 points, the higher the score is, the better the refreshing degree or the moistening degree is), and calculate the average value by summing up the scores of all the evaluators, and the result is shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 cleansing effect and skin feel test results of examples and comparative examples
Figure BDA0003961499640000091
The data in Table 4 show that the compositions of examples 1-3 of the present invention provide effective removal of lipstick, foundation, eye shadow, eyeliner, mascara, and provide good skin feel, freshness and moisturization. Shows that the invention adopts the emulsifier sucrose laurate (RYOTO) TM SURAR ESTER L-1695) and ceteareth-20 (
Figure BDA0003961499640000101
CE 200F) are combined according to a proper proportion to perform synergistic interaction, and the cleaning agent has excellent cleaning effect on different types of color cosmetics.
While the compositions of comparative examples 1 and 2, which contain only one emulsifier, are poor in makeup removal ability and skin feel. The emulsifier of comparative example 3 was glycerol triisostearate, which was poor in makeup removal effect. The comparative examples 4 and 5 adopt the glycerol triisostearate to be compounded with the emulsifier with single component, and the makeup removing effect is inferior to that of the examples, which shows that the emulsifier component has excellent synergistic effect and can have obvious makeup removing effect when being matched with the emulsifier component. In comparative example 6, the sucrose laurate emulsifier was not added, and the same amount of the preservative was added, so that the skin irritation was large and the makeup removing effect was poor. In comparative example 7, sucrose laurate was not completely dissolved and the makeup removing ability was insufficient. The lower ceteareth-20 content in comparative example 8 and the lower sucrose laurate content in comparative example 9 resulted in poor formulation between the two, resulting in reduced make-up removal and poor skin feel in comparative example 8 and comparative example 9. The composition disclosed by the invention can achieve a bacteriostatic effect by compounding the moisturizing component and the emulsifier without adding a preservative, and has an excellent makeup removing result.
3. Test of moisturizing Effect
Because water has high permittivity, the hydration degree of the skin surface layer, namely the water content of the stratum corneum can be measured by the permittivity, and therefore, the skin moisture detection is carried out by a CORNEOMETER-capacitance method. A skin moisture tester CM825 of German CK company is used for measuring the moisture content of skin, the measurement process of a skin moisture measurement value is greatly influenced by the ambient temperature and the ambient humidity, the ambient test condition is controlled to be 20 ℃ and 50% relative humidity, the moisture tester probe is vertically pressed on the surface of the skin to be tested during the test, the top of the probe is pressed back for a certain distance, a spring is arranged in the probe to ensure that the top of the probe keeps 0.16N of pressure and presses on the surface of the skin, and the skin moisture tester can test the skin moisture content under the normal room temperature condition (the temperature is 20 ℃ and the relative humidity is 40% -60%).
The specific detection method comprises the following steps: 140 healthy skin female volunteers aged 20-50 years were selected for testing, randomly divided into 14 groups of 10 persons each, using the products of examples 1-3 and comparative examples 1-9, negative control (purified water), and positive control (Bei Dema (BIODERMA) cleansing water), respectively. In the environment with the temperature of 20 +/-1 ℃ and the air humidity of about 50 percent, after the same simple cleaning and skin care, 14 groups respectively correspond to 14 test samples according to the proportion of 1mg/cm 2 The test specimen was applied to the inside of the arm. After the subject was rested in a constant environment for 30 minutes, the test site blank value was measured using a Corneometer, and 5 points were fixedly measured using the area in a certain order to obtain an average value thereof. Then a specially-assigned person is responsible for smearing the sample, timing is started, the change of the humidity measurement value is measured at each time according to the design of the experiment, and the change of the skin humidity measurement value within 8h of each combination ratio is tested and recorded by using a Corneometer CM 825.
Table 5 moisturizing effect test results of examples and comparative examples
Figure BDA0003961499640000111
The results in Table 5 show that the compositions of examples 1 to 3 of the present invention have a good moisturizing effect, which indicates that the combination of sucrose laurate emulsifier and ceteareth-20 emulsifier in the present invention can provide a good moisturizing effect by reducing the loss of moisture through skin, and avoid the phenomena of easy drying and tightening after makeup removal with common makeup remover water. The moisturizing effects of the compositions of comparative examples 1-9 are all inferior to those of examples 1-3, indicating that the compositions of the present invention have excellent synergistic effects and excellent moisturizing properties while ensuring sufficient cleansing power.
4. Appearance observation
Comparing the makeup remover of example 1 with that of comparative example 7: example 1 normal temperature 25 ℃, transparent and not layering; comparative example 7 was transparent at 25 ℃ at room temperature, but the upper layer was oily and the lower layer was water, and the layers were separated.
The side shows that the sucrose laurate emulsifier is easy to agglomerate in water at normal temperature and is difficult to dissolve, and the problem of difficult dissolution in water can be solved by a special solubilization process (mixing the sucrose laurate emulsifier with 1,3-propylene glycol and ceteareth-20 emulsifier and heating to 75-80 ℃).
Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only used for illustrating the technical solutions of the present invention and not for limiting the protection scope of the present invention, and although the present invention is described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that modifications or equivalent substitutions can be made on the technical solutions of the present invention without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solutions of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The moisturizing and makeup removing composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.24 to 0.66 percent of chelating agent, 5.09 to 10.24 percent of humectant and 1.5 to 5 percent of emulsifier; the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA and caprylyl hydroximic acid; the humectant comprises caprylyl glycol; the emulsifier includes sucrose laurate and ceteareth-20.
2. The moisturizing cleansing composition of claim 1, wherein the moisturizing agent further comprises glycerin and 1,3-propanediol.
3. The moisturizing makeup removing composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the humectant comprises 0.045% to 0.12% of caprylyl glycol and 0.045% to 0.12% of glycerin and 5% to 10% of 1,3-propylene glycol by mass of the moisturizing makeup removing composition; the chelating agent comprises disodium EDTA which accounts for 0.03-0.1% of the weight of the moisturizing and cleansing composition and 0.21-0.56% of caprylhydroxamic acid.
4. The moisturizing makeup-removing composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises a solvent in an amount of 84.1% to 93.17% by mass thereof.
5. The moisturizing and makeup-removing composition according to claim 1, wherein the emulsifier comprises sucrose laurate in an amount of 1-3% and ceteareth-20 in an amount of 0.5-2% by weight of the moisturizing and makeup-removing composition.
6. The moisturizing makeup-removing composition according to claim 1, wherein the mass ratio of sucrose laurate to ceteareth-20 is (1-3): (0.5-2).
7. A process for preparing a moisturizing makeup-removing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by comprising the steps of:
(1) Mixing the EDTA disodium and a solvent, heating, and keeping the temperature to obtain a phase A;
(2) Mixing the octanoyl hydroximic acid and the humectant uniformly, adding the emulsifier, heating and stirring uniformly to obtain a phase B;
(3) Adding the phase B into the phase A, stirring until the mixture is transparent and clear, and cooling to obtain the final product.
8. The method according to claim 7, wherein the heating temperature in the step (1) is 85 ℃ to 90 ℃.
9. The method according to claim 7, wherein the heating temperature in the step (2) is 75 ℃ to 80 ℃.
10. Use of the moisturizing and cleansing composition according to any of claims 1 to 6 in cosmetics.
CN202211487160.4A 2022-11-24 2022-11-24 Moisturizing cleansing composition and preparation method and application thereof Active CN115919687B (en)

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Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN108030764A (en) * 2017-12-28 2018-05-15 花安堂生物科技集团有限公司 A kind of bilayer make up remover and preparation method thereof
CN108938464A (en) * 2018-07-25 2018-12-07 广州依露美化妆品有限公司 A kind of mild makeup remover of deep layer cleaning
US20190282487A1 (en) * 2017-04-06 2019-09-19 Hunan Yujia Cosmetics Manufacturing Co., Ltd. Moisturizing composition and application thereof in preparation of moisturizing cosmetic product
CN112842921A (en) * 2021-01-18 2021-05-28 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 Multilayer cleansing lotion and preparation method thereof
CN113952255A (en) * 2021-11-25 2022-01-21 广州天然国度生物科技有限公司 Makeup removing emulsion, preparation method thereof and makeup removing wet tissue

Patent Citations (5)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20190282487A1 (en) * 2017-04-06 2019-09-19 Hunan Yujia Cosmetics Manufacturing Co., Ltd. Moisturizing composition and application thereof in preparation of moisturizing cosmetic product
CN108030764A (en) * 2017-12-28 2018-05-15 花安堂生物科技集团有限公司 A kind of bilayer make up remover and preparation method thereof
CN108938464A (en) * 2018-07-25 2018-12-07 广州依露美化妆品有限公司 A kind of mild makeup remover of deep layer cleaning
CN112842921A (en) * 2021-01-18 2021-05-28 广州艾蓓生物科技有限公司 Multilayer cleansing lotion and preparation method thereof
CN113952255A (en) * 2021-11-25 2022-01-21 广州天然国度生物科技有限公司 Makeup removing emulsion, preparation method thereof and makeup removing wet tissue

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