CN115702027A

CN115702027A - Long wear lip cosmetic system and top coat

Info

Publication number: CN115702027A
Application number: CN202180045056.7A
Authority: CN
Inventors: S·N·马丁内斯; N·A·戈梅斯; P·帕特尔
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 2020-06-24
Filing date: 2021-06-08
Publication date: 2023-02-14
Also published as: EP4171754A1; WO2021262430A1

Abstract

A cosmetic system is disclosed that includes a lip base coat composition including at least one first silicone film former, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil, and a top coat composition including at least one second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil carrier. Methods and topcoats are also provided.

Description

Long wear lip cosmetic system and coating

Cross Reference to Related Applications

This application claims priority from U.S. patent application No. 16/910,729, filed 24/6/2020. The present application also claims priority from french patent application No. 2008405 filed on 8/10/2020.

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a topcoat composition for long wearing lip compositions comprising at least one silicone film former, and to cosmetic systems, kits and methods for treating, making up and enhancing the appearance of lips, comprising a topcoat composition applied over a basecoat composition.

Background

Many cosmetic compositions, including pigmented cosmetics such as lipstick or lip gloss, have been formulated in an attempt to provide long wear upon application. Unfortunately, many of these compositions do not typically simultaneously have good long-wear/transfer resistance and high gloss.

For example, with respect to lip compositions, commercial products containing silicone resins, such as MQ resins, are known. Such products are known to provide good long-life/transfer resistance.

Sometimes, a second composition (topcoat) is applied separately to such products to improve the undesirable properties of the composition, making the product acceptable to the consumer. However, topcoat compositions tend to reduce the long wear/transfer resistance of the lip composition, making long wear/transfer resistant compositions less acceptable to consumers and less acceptable for their intended purposes.

Thus, there remains a need for improved lip compositions and systems that have improved cosmetic properties upon application, particularly good transfer resistance, feel and shine characteristics.

Accordingly, one aspect of the present invention is a topcoat composition for long wear lip compositions that provides or maintains good cosmetic properties, such as good transfer resistance, feel and gloss properties, when applied to the long wear lip composition.

Disclosure of Invention

In one aspect, the present invention relates to a cosmetic system comprising (1) a lip base coat composition comprising at least one first silicone film former, colorant, and volatile hydrocarbon oil, and (2) a top coat composition comprising at least one second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil carrier.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to a method of making up the lips. The method includes applying a first composition including at least one first silicone film former, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil to the lips to form a base coat. After a waiting period, a second composition comprising at least one second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil carrier is applied to form a top coat over the basecoat.

In another aspect, the present invention relates to a topcoat composition for use on the lips, wherein the topcoat consists essentially of from about 15 wt% to about 30 wt% of at least one silicone film former; from about 60% to about 85% of a non-volatile silicone oil; and from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of one or more cosmetic additives, wherein the at least one silicone film former and the one or more cosmetic additives are dispersed or dissolved in the non-volatile silicone oil.

Detailed Description

According to the present invention, the term "anhydrous" refers to a composition that does not contain any water, i.e. a composition in which the water that may be present comes only from the water of crystallization or from the adsorbed water of the starting material. In any case, less than about 2% water by weight, such as less than about 1% water, such as less than about 0.5% water, such as less than about 0.1% water.

All ingredient percentages herein are listed on an active basis unless otherwise indicated. Further, all percentages of ingredients are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

As used herein, the expression "at least one" means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.

Other than in the operating examples, or where otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients and/or reaction conditions are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about" and are intended to be within 15%, such as within 10%, of the indicated number. For example, about 10% means 8.5% to 11.5%, such as 9% to 11%.

As used herein, a "film former" or "film-forming polymer" or "film-forming resin" means a polymer or resin that leaves a film on a substrate to which it is applied, for example, after a solvent accompanying the film former has evaporated, absorbed into the substrate, and/or dissipated on the substrate.

As used herein, "transfer resistance" refers to the quality exhibited by a composition that is not readily removed by contact with another material (e.g., glass, clothing, or skin), such as when eating or drinking. Transfer resistance can be assessed by any method known in the art for assessing transfer resistance. For example, the transfer resistance of the composition can be assessed by a "kiss" test. The "kiss" test may involve applying the composition to human keratin materials, such as hair, skin or lips, and then wiping the material, such as a sheet of paper, over the hair, skin or lips after a certain amount of time has elapsed after application, such as 2 minutes after application. Similarly, transfer resistance of the composition can be assessed by the amount of product transferred from the user to any other substrate, such as from the individual's hair, skin or lips to a collar when the garment is worn after a specified time has expired after the composition is applied to the hair, skin or lips. The amount of composition transferred to the substrate (e.g., collar or paper) can then be evaluated and compared. For example, the composition may be transfer resistant if a majority of the product is left on the hair, skin, or lips of the user. In addition, the amount transferred can be compared to the amount transferred for other compositions (e.g., commercially available compositions). In preferred embodiments of the invention, little or no transfer of the composition from the hair, skin or lips to the substrate occurs.

As used herein, a "long-wear" composition refers to a composition in which the color remains the same or substantially the same as when applied, as viewed by the naked eye, after an extended period of time. Long-term durability can be assessed by any method known in the art for assessing these properties. For example, longevity can be assessed by a test that involves applying the composition to human hair, skin, or lips and assessing the color of the composition after an extended period of time. For example, the color of the composition can be evaluated immediately after application to the hair, skin, or lips, and then these characteristics can be evaluated and compared after a certain time. In addition, these properties can be evaluated relative to other compositions (e.g., commercially available compositions). With respect to lip compositions, "long-wear" generally means that the composition remains on the lips for at least about 4 hours up to about 24 hours, and remains dark even after eating.

By "liquid" or "liquid cosmetic" or "liquid lipstick" or "liquid composition" is meant a composition having a fixed volume that flows to cover the bottom and takes the shape of the portion of the container it fills and is slightly compressible.

As used herein, "tack" refers to adhesion between two substances. For example, the greater the adhesion between two substances, the greater the adhesion between the substances. To quantify "stickiness," it is useful to determine the IUPAC defined "work of adhesion" associated with two substances. Generally, work of adhesion measures the amount of work required to separate two substances. Thus, the greater the work of adhesion associated with two substances, the greater the adhesion between the substances, meaning the greater the tack between the two substances.

The work of adhesion, and thus the tack, can be quantified using acceptable techniques and methods commonly used to measure adhesion, as well as the techniques and methods described so far.

"substituted" as used herein means containing at least one substituent. Non-limiting examples of the substituent include atoms such as oxygen atom and nitrogen atom, and functional groups such as amine group, ether group, alkoxy group, acyloxyalkyl group, oxyalkylene group, polyoxyalkylene group, carboxylic acid group, amine group, amide group, halogen-containing group, ester group, thiol group, sulfonate group, thiosulfate group, siloxane group and polysiloxane group. The substituents may be further substituted.

As used herein, "substantially free" means that, although it is preferred that certain components are not present in the composition in amounts, very small amounts of the certain components may be present in the compositions of the present invention, provided that such amounts do not substantially affect at least one, and preferably most, of the advantageous properties of the conditioning compositions of the present invention. In certain embodiments, "substantially free" refers to less than about 2% of a defined ingredient, such as less than about 1%, for example less than about 0.5% of an ingredient.

"about" refers to, for example, a concentration of an ingredient, and refers to within 10% to 15% of the indicated number.

Numerical ranges are inclusive of the endpoints and intended to include all combinations and subcombinations. For example, about 5%, 10%, or 15% to about 20%, 50%, or 60% means about 5% to about 20%, about 5% to about 50%, about 5% to about 60%, about 10% to about 20%, about 10% to about 50%, about 10% to about 60%, about 15% to about 20%, about 15% to about 50%, or about 15% to about 60%.

All concentrations in this specification are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

"Keratin material" includes keratin-containing materials such as hair, skin, eyebrows, lips, and nails.

As used herein, "volatile" refers to a flash point of less than about 100 ℃.

As used herein, "non-volatile" means having a flash point greater than about 100 ℃.

As used herein, "active basis" means that only a particular component of an ingredient is considered (e.g., in a composition) and other chemically unrelated components that may also be present in the same material source for that particular component are ignored.

The compositions and methods of the present invention may comprise, consist of, or consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any additional or optional ingredients, components, or limitations described or otherwise useful herein.

Primer coating composition

In accordance with an embodiment of the present invention, a long wearing lip composition is provided that includes at least one silicone film former. Preferably, the silicone film former is selected from the group consisting of: silicone resins, polyorganosiloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. The basecoat composition of the present invention may be in any form, liquid or non-liquid (semi-solid, soft solid, etc.). For example, it may be a paste, solid, gel or cream. It may be an emulsion, such as an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, such as an oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion or a water-in-oil-in-water-in-oil emulsion, or a solid, rigid or soft gel. The compositions of the invention may, for example, comprise an external or continuous fatty phase. The composition may also be a molding composition or cast into a rod or tray.

In certain notable embodiments, the primer layer is a liquid. In certain other notable embodiments, the base coat is a solution or dispersion including at least one silicone film former and at least one colorant in a volatile hydrocarbon oil.

Silicone resin

According to a preferred embodiment, the long wearing lip composition of the present invention comprises at least one silicone resin. Examples of suitable silicone resins include those described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 5,505,937, U.S. Pat. No. 5,911,974, U.S. Pat. No. 5,965,112, U.S. Pat. No. 5,985,298, U.S. Pat. No. 6,074,654, U.S. Pat. No. 6,780,422, U.S. Pat. No. 6,908,621, the disclosures of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

According to a preferred embodiment, the long wearing lip composition comprises a silicate resin. One non-limiting example of a siloxysilicate according to the present invention is trimethylsiloxysilicate, which may be represented by the following formula:

[(CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO] _x (SiO _4/2 ) _y

wherein x andy may be, for example, in the range of 50 to 80. Such siloxysilicates are available under the trade name Resin

Commercially available from General Electric (General Electric), dow Corning (Dow Corning), german Waters (Wacker), milliken (Milliken), silver color (Siltech), grant Industries (Grant Industries), mylar graphics (Momentive), and Shin-Etsu Silicones (Shin-Etsu Silicones).

According to a preferred embodiment, the long-wearing lip composition comprises a silsesquioxane resin, such as a polypropylsilsesquioxane resin.

Silsesquioxane resins are a particular form of silicone resin. The silicone resin nomenclature is referred to in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature, wherein the silicone resin is described in terms of the various monomeric siloxane units that make up the polymer. Each letter of "MDTQ" represents a different type of cell. When the film-forming resin consists essentially of trifunctional units (or T units), it is commonly referred to as a silsesquioxane resin, which is described, for example, in US 2006/0292096, which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Examples of silsesquioxane resins useful in the present invention are alkyl silsesquioxane resins that are of the general formula R ¹ _n SiO _(4-n)/2 Wherein each R1 is a propyl group, wherein greater than 80 mole% of R1 represents a C3-C10 alkyl group, n is a value of 1.0 to 1.4, and greater than 60 mole% of the copolymer comprises R ¹ SiO _3/2 And (4) units. Since each R1 is a propyl group, these polymers are referred to as polypropylsilsesquioxane resins or "t-propyl" silsesquioxane resins. These resins and methods of making them are described, for example, in US8,586,013, 2012/0301415, 2007/0093619, and 2006/0292096, all of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

Non-limiting examples of polypropylsilsesquioxane resins suitable for use in the present invention canAvailable as Dow Corning 670 Fluid or Dow Corning 680 Fluid from Dow Corning. These dow corning resins have the general formula R _n SiO _(4-n)/2 Wherein R is independently selected from a hydrogen atom and a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing 3 carbon atoms, wherein greater than 80 mole% of R is propyl, n has a value of 1.0 to 1.4, and greater than 60 mole% of the copolymer comprises RSiO _3/2 And having a hydroxyl or alkoxy content of from 0.2 to 10 wt%, for example from 1 to 4 wt%, preferably from 5 to 10 wt%, more preferably from 6 to 8 wt%. Preferably, the polypropylsilsesquioxane resin has a molecular weight of about 5000 to about 30,000 and a Tg of about-5 ℃ to about 5 ℃.

According to a preferred embodiment, the long wearing lip composition contains at least one silicone resin selected from the group consisting of: siloxysilicate resins, silsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof.

The at least one silicone resin is preferably present in the long wearing lip composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 5% to about 30% by weight, preferably from about 10% to about 25% by weight, and preferably from about 15% to about 20% by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, all weights based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

Volatile hydrocarbon oil

The basecoat composition includes at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil. As used herein, the term "oil" refers to oil at atmospheric pressure (1.013 xlO) ⁵ Pa) a non-aqueous compound having a melting point below about 25 ℃. The oil is generally immiscible with water, where "immiscible" means that the same amount of water and oil is mixed and, after mixing (e.g., rayneri 550rpm for 10 minutes), under normal temperature and pressure conditions, does not produce a stable solution comprising only one phase.

Oils typically include hydrophobic moieties, such as hydrophobic moieties that meet one or more of the following three criteria: (a) A carbon chain having at least six carbons, wherein none of the six carbons is a carbonyl carbon or has a hydrophilic moiety (defined below) directly bonded thereto; (b) has two or more alkylsiloxy groups; or (c) has two or more oxypropylene groups in sequence. The hydrophobic moiety may comprise a linear, cyclic, aromatic, saturated or unsaturated group. The hydrophobic compound is not amphiphilic in certain embodiments, and therefore, hydrophilic moieties, such as anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, or nonionic groups, which are polar, are not included in this embodiment, including sulfate, sulfonate, carboxylate, phosphate, phosphonate, ammonium (including monoalkylammonium, dialkylammonium, and trialkylammonium species), pyridinium, imidazolinium, amidinium, poly (ethyleneiminium), ammonium alkylsulfonate, ammonium alkylcarboxylate, amphoacetate, and poly (ethyleneoxy) sulfonyl moieties. In certain embodiments, the oil does not include a hydroxyl moiety. In certain embodiments, the oil is not surface active, i.e., does not reduce the surface tension of water to less than 50 dynes/cm when added to water at a 1% by weight concentration.

Examples of suitable volatile hydrocarbon oils include, for example, volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, especially branched C ₈ To C ₁₆ Alkanes, e.g. C ₈ To C ₁₆ Isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and oils such as those sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl, C ₈ To C ₁₆ Branched esters such as isohexyl or isodecyl neopentanoate, alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon-based oil has a flash point of at least 40 ℃.

Examples of volatile hydrocarbon-based oils include, but are not limited to, those given in table 1 below.

TABLE 1

Compound (I)	Flash Point (. Degree.C.)
		Isododecane	43
Isohexadecane	102
		Propylene glycol n-butyl ether	60
3-Ethoxypropionic acid ethyl ester	58
		Propylene glycol methyl ether acetate	46
Isopar L (isoparaffin C) ₁₁ -C ₁₃ )	62
		Isopar H (isoparaffin C) ₁₁ -C ₁₂ )	56

In addition to the volatile hydrocarbon oil, the primer layer may optionally include one or more volatile silicone oils. The volatile silicone oil, if present, may be chosen from linear or cyclic silicone oils, for example those having a viscosity at room temperature of less than or equal to 6cSt and having 2 to 7 silicon atoms, optionally substituted by alkyl or alkoxy groups of 1 to 10 carbon atoms.

Examples of suitable volatile silicone oils include, but are not limited to, those listed in table 2 below.

TABLE 2

According to certain embodiments, the one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils are present in a weight concentration greater than the weight concentration of the one or more volatile silicone oils. According to certain other embodiments, the one or more volatile hydrocarbon oils are present in a concentration of at least 2 to about 10 times the weight of the one or more volatile silicone oils.

The at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil is typically present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 5% to about 50% by weight; for example, from about 10 wt% to about 45 wt%; for example, from about 15 to about 40 weight percent, all weights based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

The at least one volatile silicone oil, if present, is typically present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 1% to about 25% by weight; for example, from about 2 wt% to about 15 wt%; for example, from about 3 wt% to about 10 wt%, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

According to a notable embodiment, the basecoat composition of the present invention may comprise at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer. The polyorganosiloxane copolymers useful in the present invention are preferably polymers (homo-or copolymers) having at least one moiety comprising: at least one polyorganosiloxane group consisting of 1 to about 1000 organosiloxane units in the chain of the moiety or in grafted form and at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions. Non-limiting examples of polyorganosiloxane copolymers are disclosed, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 8,945,525, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Other polyorganosiloxane copolymers that may be used in the long wearing lip compositions of the present invention include those described in U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,874,069, 5,919,441, 6,051,216, and 5,981,680, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

Preferred polyorganosiloxane copolymers for use in the present invention comprise at least one polyorganosiloxane copolymer selected from formula (III):

and moieties of formula (IV)

Wherein:

(a)R ¹ 、R ² 、R ³ and R ⁴ The same or different and may be selected from the group consisting of: methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, siloxane chains, and phenyl;

(b) X is a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 30 carbons;

(c) Y is selected from the group consisting of: a linear or branched alkylene group having 1 to 40 carbons;

(d) m is a number between 1 and 700;

(e) n is a number from 1 to 500.

Particularly preferred polyorganosiloxane copolymers useful in the present invention are available from Dow Corning under the trade name DC

And DC

Commercially available, they are designated nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer by INCI.

Preferably, the polyorganosiloxane copolymer is present in the long-wear lip composition of the present invention in an amount of from about 2% to about 35%, preferably from about 5% to about 30%, and preferably from about 7% to about 20%, by weight, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, all weights based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

According to a preferred embodiment, the long wearing lip composition may further comprise at least one silicone elastomer. Preferably, the silicone elastomer is a non-emulsifying silicone elastomer. "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers which are free of hydrophilic chains, in particular polyalkylene oxide (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene) or polyglyceryl units. Thus, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a silicone elastomer free of polyoxyalkylene units and polyglyceryl units.

Suitable examples of non-emulsifying elastomers are described in US8,637,057, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference in its entirety.

Other suitable examples of non-emulsifying elastomers that may be used in the present invention include, but are not limited to, those sold by shiner corporation under the names KSG-6, KSG-15, KSG-16, KSG-18, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43 and KSG-44, those sold by Dow Corning corporation under the names DC 9040, DC 9041, DC 9509, DC 9505 and DC 9506, and those sold by Momentive Performance Materials (Momentol) under the name SFE 839.

The silicone elastomer is preferably in the form of a gel or powder.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone elastomer particles are delivered in the form of a gel formed by an elastomeric organopolysiloxane comprised in at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are generally non-spherical particles. A non-limiting example of a silicone elastomer useful in the present invention is a dimethicone cross polymer gel (a blend of dimethicone cross polymer in solvent) having a viscosity number of from about 150 to about 700mm ² S, from about 200 to about 650mm ² S and from about 300 to about 600mm ² And/s, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

Particularly useful herein are blends of high molecular weight silicone elastomers in volatile solvents such as silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.

Specific examples of suitable silicone elastomer gels include DC EL-8040 ID (INCI name: isododecane (and) dimethicone crosspolymer) and DC EL-9140 DM (INCI name: dimethicone (and) dimethicone crosspolymer), supplied by Dow Corning.

Non-limiting examples of silicone elastomers and their compositions are disclosed in, for example, U.S.8,637,057 and US/20150174048, both of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety.

While not wishing to be bound by any particular theory, it is believed that the silicone elastomer thickens the composition, increases the cushioning (sponge-like) effect, and/or improves the application characteristics of the long-wearing lip composition. Moreover, it provides a very soft feel and/or a matting effect after application.

Preferably, the silicone elastomer is present in an amount of from 1% to 30%, preferably from about 1.5% to about 20%, and preferably from 2% to 10% by weight of the active material (dry matter), relative to the total weight of the long-wear lip composition, including all ranges and subranges therebetween.

In addition, the basecoat composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one cosmetically acceptable colorant, such as a pigment or dye. Examples of suitable pigments include, but are not limited to, inorganic pigments, organic pigments, lakes, pearlescent pigments, iridescent or optically variable pigments, and mixtures thereof. Pigments are understood to mean inorganic or organic, white or colored particles. Within the scope of the present invention, the pigment may optionally be surface treated, but is not limited to treatments such as silicones, perfluorochemicals, lecithin and amino acids.

Representative examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of: rutile or anatase titanium dioxide, which is encoded in the color index under reference number CI 77,891; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides, encoded with reference numbers CI 77,499, 77,492 and 77,491; manganese violet (CI 77,742); ultramarine blue (CI 77, 007); chromium oxide (CI 77,288); chromium hydrate (CI 77,289); and iron blue (CI 77, 510) and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of organic pigments and lakes useful in the present invention include, but are not limited to, D & C Red No. 19 (CI 45,170), D & C Red No. 9 (CI 15,585), D & C Red No. 21 (CI 45,380), D & C orange No. 4 (CI 15,510), D & C orange No. 5 (CI 45,370), D & C Red No. 27 (CI 45,410), D & C Red No. 13 (CI 15,630), D & C Red No. 7 (CI 15,850), D & C Red No. 6 (CI 15,850), D & C yellow No. 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Red No. 36 (CI 12,085), D & C orange No. 10 (CI 45,425), D & C yellow No. 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Red No. 30 (CI 73,360), D & C Red No. 3 (CI 45,430), and carmine-based dyes or lakes and mixtures thereof.

Representative examples of pearlescent pigments useful in the present invention include those selected from the group consisting of: white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium dioxide, bismuth oxychloride, titanium oxychloride; colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxide, titanium mica with ferric blue, chromium oxide, and the like; titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above type; and those based on bismuth oxychloride; and mixtures thereof.

The precise amount and type of colorant used in the compositions of the present invention will depend on the color, intensity and use of the cosmetic composition and will therefore be determined by those skilled in the art of cosmetic formulation. However, one preferred amount of colorant for use in the present invention is from about 0.5% to about 15%, from about 1.5% to about 12%, and from about 2% to about 10%, by weight of the composition.

The basecoat composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one filler. Fillers useful in the compositions of the present invention include, for example, silica powder; talc; polyamide particles, in particular those sold under the name Orgasol by the company Atochem (Atochem); polyethylene powder; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those sold under the name Polytrap by dow corning company based on ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymers; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres, in particular those sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord platt or Micropearl F80 ED by the company Matsumoto, japan; powders of natural organic materials such as crosslinked or non-crosslinked corn Starch, wheat Starch or rice Starch, such as Starch crosslinked with octenyl succinic anhydride sold under the name Dry-Flo by National Starch company (National Starch); silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by Toshiba Silicone corporation (Toshiba Silicone); clays (hectorite, bentonite, laponite, saponite, etc.); and mixtures thereof.

Fillers may be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 50% by weight, such as from 0.5% to about 30% by weight, such as from about 1% to about 20% by weight, all weights being based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

The basecoat composition of the present invention may optionally further comprise at least one silica aerogel. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel methods in a liquid medium, followed by drying, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the most common one being supercritical CO ₂ . By this type of drying, shrinkage of the pores and material can be avoided. Generally, silica aerogels have been disclosed in U.S. Pat. No. 9,320,689, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the present invention, mention may be made, by way of example, of those whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a particle size of from 600 to 800m, produced by Dow Corning, under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: silylated silica) ² Specific surface area per unit mass of/g.

Mention may also be made of the compounds marketed by the company Cabot (Cabot) under the AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203,

AEROGELs sold by Aerogel MT 1100, ENOVA Aerogel MT 1200.

In particular, aerogels sold under the name VM-2270 (INCI name: silylated silica), produced by Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of from 5 to 15 microns and from 600 to 800m, can be used ² Specific surface area per unit mass of/g.

Silica aerogel particles can be used in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from 0.1 wt% to about 8 wt%, preferably from 0.25 wt% to 6 wt%, and preferably from 0.5 wt% to 4 wt%, including all ranges and subranges therebetween, all weights based on the weight of the composition as a whole.

According to a preferred embodiment, the basecoat composition of the present invention may comprise at least one wax. For the purposes of the present invention, a wax is a lipophilic fatty compound (similar to those described above for "oil"), except that it is solid at room temperature (25 ℃), has a reversible solid/liquid state change (i.e., the state of the material can change based on temperature), has a melting point greater than 45 ℃, preferably greater than 55 ℃, more preferably between about 65 ℃ and about 120 ℃, and has an anisotropic crystalline structure in the solid state. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a Differential Scanning Calorimeter (DSC) such as the one sold under the name DSC 30 by Mettler. For waxes derived from petroleum, such as microcrystalline waxes, the melting point can be measured according to drop ASTM method D-127.

Waxes may generally be those used in cosmetics. The waxes may be of natural origin, such as beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, japan wax, cork fibre wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin wax, montan wax, microcrystalline wax, lanolin wax, montan wax, ozokerite wax and hydrogenated oils, such as hydrogenated jojoba oil.

The waxes may also be of synthetic origin, such as polyethylene waxes derived from the polymerization of ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides that are solid at 40 ℃.

Specific waxes include, for example, polyethylene waxes, such as those sold under the trade name Performalene 500-L polyethylene (New Phase Technology), and polymethylene waxes, such as those sold under the trade name Cirebelle 303 (Sasol).

Specific waxes include, for example, silicone waxes such as polypropylsilsesquioxane waxes substituted with alkyl units having at least 30 carbons. Polypropylene-based silsesquioxane waxes are generally disclosed in patent publications WO2005/100444 and U.S.8,586,013, the entire contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety. A particularly preferred polypropylsilylsilsesquioxane wax for use in the present invention is a C30-45 alkyldimethylsilylpolylsilylsesquioxane available from Dow Corning under the trade name SW-8005 C30 resin wax.

The basecoat composition of the present invention may also optionally include at least one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable additional additive such as thickeners, plasticizers, antioxidants, essential oils, botanical extracts, fragrances, preservatives, fragrances, pasty fatty substances, neutralizers and polymers, as well as cosmetically and/or dermatologically active agents such as emollients, humectants, vitamins, essential fatty acids, and pharmaceuticals.

According to certain embodiments, the basecoat compositions of the present disclosure may include a volatile hydrocarbon oil at a concentration of from about 20 wt.%, 30 wt.%, or 40 wt.% to about 65 wt.%, 75 wt.%, or 85 wt.%; at least one silicone resin at a concentration of about 5, 10, or 15 to about 25, 35, or 45 weight percent; a colorant at a concentration of about 1%, 2%, or 5% to about 5%, 10%, or 20% by weight; and an optional filler at a concentration of about 2 wt%, 3 wt%, or 5 wt% to about 6 wt%, 10 wt%, or 20 wt%. In certain of these embodiments, the primer layer is substantially free of one or more of the following: silicone oils, water, waxes, and non-volatile hydrocarbon oils.

Topcoat compositions

According to the present invention, a topcoat composition is provided that includes at least one film former and a non-volatile oil carrier. According to certain embodiments, the topcoat composition consists essentially of at least one silicone resin and at least one non-volatile oil, such as a non-volatile silicone oil. Preferably, the topcoat composition does not inhibit transfer resistance of the long wear lip composition when the topcoat composition is applied to the long wear lip composition, such as a basecoat as described herein.

Silicone resins useful in the topcoat are those described above with reference to the basecoat. However, the base coat and top coat need not include any or all of the same silicone resin. According to certain embodiments, the silicone resin is selected from the group consisting of: siloxysilicate resins, silsesquioxane resins, and mixtures thereof. In certain embodiments, the silicone resin comprises or consists of a siloxysilicate resin, such as trimethylsiloxysilicate.

The weight concentration of the one or more silicone resins in the topcoat may be at least about 10 weight percent, such as at least greater than 15 weight percent. According to certain embodiments, the weight concentration of the one or more silicone resins is from about 15 weight percent or 20 weight percent to about 25 weight percent or 30 weight percent.

Non-volatile carrier

The non-volatile oily vehicle comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of one or more non-volatile oils. The terms "oil" and "non-volatile" are as described above. According to certain embodiments, the non-volatile oil has a composition at 25 ℃ and atmospheric pressure that is non-zero and less than 0.02mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10" ³ Vapor pressure of mmHg (0.13 Pa).

The non-volatile oil carrier may include a relatively low concentration of a volatile oil, such as a volatile silicone oil. In certain embodiments, the concentration of volatile oil in the topcoat layer is less than the concentration of non-volatile oil. For example, the non-volatile oil carrier can have at most 40%, such as at most 30%, such as at most 20%, such as at most 10%, such as at most 5%, such as at most 1%, of volatile oil, as measured relative to the weight concentration of the total oil in the non-volatile oil carrier.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-volatile oil is a high viscosity oil, which is a silicone oil and/or a hydrocarbon oil. By "high viscosity" is meant an oil having a viscosity of greater than 100cSt, particularly greater than 250cSt, at 25 ℃. Most particularly, the non-volatile oil is selected from silicone oils. Such oils are described, for example, in US 2011/0293550 and US 2004/0126350, both of which are incorporated herein by reference.

In particular, the non-volatile silicone oils useful in the present invention preferably have a viscosity at 25 ℃ ranging from 9cSt to 800 000cSt, preferably less than or equal to 600 000cSt and preferably less than or equal to 500 000cSt. The viscosity of these silicone oils can be measured according to the standard ASTM D-445.

According to certain embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil is a non-phenylated silicone oil. The expression "non-phenylated silicone oil" or "non-phenylated silicone oil" means a silicone oil having no phenyl substituent.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-phenylated linear silicone oil. Representative examples of such non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxane; an alkyl dimethicone; a vinylmethylmethylsilicone; and silicones modified with optionally fluorinated aliphatic groups or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups.

Non-limiting examples of suitable non-volatile silicone oils include Polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having linear or cyclic silicone chains, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, especially cyclomethicones (cyclomethicones), such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (CTFA denominated "dimethicones") which comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent or terminal to the silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; a dimethicone; and a dimethicone fluid having a viscosity of from about 300cPs at 25 ℃ to about 1500cPs at 25 ℃. Particularly useful dimethicone fluids have a viscosity of from about 350cPs at 25 ℃ to about 1000cPs at 25 ℃.

Specific examples of high viscosity silicone oils suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, those available from Dow Corning

A silicone fluid.

If present, the at least one non-volatile silicone oil is preferably present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 2% to about 30% by weight, including from about 4% to about 25% by weight, and typically from about 6% to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, including all ranges and subranges within these ranges.

The non-volatile non-phenylated silicone oil is preferably chosen from dimethicone oils, preferably chosen from Polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); an alkyl dimethicone.

"Dimethicone" (INCI name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name).

PDMS may comprise alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendant and/or terminal to the silicone chain, each of these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, for example cetyl dimethicone, available under the trade name ABIL WAX 9801 from high schmidt (Evonik Goldschmidt) in germany.

PDMS may include aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol, and/or amine groups.

Polyalkylmethylsiloxanes, such as cetyl dimethicone, commercially available under the trade name ABIL WAX 9801 from Gaschmidt, germany, or polyalkylmethylsiloxanes optionally substituted with fluorinated groups, such as polymethyltrifluoropropyldimethicone.

The non-phenylated linear silicone oil may be chosen in particular from silicones of formula (I):

wherein: the R groups together or independently are alkyl, vinyl, amino or hydroxy groups containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

x is an alkyl, hydroxyl or amine group containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms, n and p are integers selected to have a fluid compound, in particular a viscosity of 9 centistokes (cSt) (9 xlOW/s) to 800 000cSt at 25 ℃.

According to particular embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil comprises, consists essentially of, or consists of a polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of from about 100cSt to about 5000 cSt.

According to other embodiments, the non-volatile silicone oil comprises at least one non-volatile phenylated silicone oil.

The expression "phenylated silicone oil" or "phenyl silicone oil" means a silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.

Such phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. Such oils are in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the name PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 cosmetic fluids (chemical name: 1,3, 5-trimethyl-1, 3, 5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane; sold by Dow Corning under the name Dow Corning 554 cosmetic fluids. D) phenyl silicone oils correspond to the following formula (TV):

wherein Me represents a methyl group, y is 1 to 1,000, X represents-CH 2-CH (CH) ₃ ) (Ph), e), the phenyl silicone oil corresponding to the following formula (V):

wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents the group-OSiMe ₃ And y is 0 or in a range between 1 and 1000, and z is in a range between 1 and 1000. In particular, y and z are such that compound (V) is a non-volatile oil.

As preferred non-volatile silicone oils, there may be mentioned by way of example phenyltrimethicones, tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxanes, diphenylsilylphenylphenyltrimethicones, diphenylsilylphenyldimethicones, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxanes, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the topcoat includes from about 15 wt% to about 30 wt% of a second silicone film former and from about 60 wt% to about 85 wt% of one or more non-volatile silicone oils.

Additional ingredients

According to certain embodiments, the topcoat composition may comprise additional ingredients, such as preservatives, natural extracts, colorants, waxes, polymers, vitamins, antioxidants, skin benefit agents, and the like. The concentration of these other ingredients may be, for example, less than about 20 wt%, such as less than about 10 wt%, such as less than about 5 wt%. According to certain embodiments, the topcoat composition comprises from about 0.001%, 0.005%, or 0.1% to about 0.5%, 1%, 2%, 5%, or 10% of a cosmetic additive, such as an additive selected from the group consisting of: vitamins, antioxidants, natural extracts, polymers or colorants.

According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition is substantially free of one or more, or even all, of: non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile oils, waxes, colorants, C2 to C4 monohydric alcohols, glycols, and water. According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition is substantially free of polydiglycerol adipate and/or non-volatile phenylated silicone oil. According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition is substantially free of colorants.

According to certain other embodiments, the topcoat composition for use on the lips consists essentially of from about 15 wt.% to about 30 wt.% of at least one silicone film former; from about 65% to about 85% by weight of a non-volatile silicone oil; and from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of one or more cosmetic additives, wherein the at least one silicone film former and the one or more cosmetic additives are dispersed or dissolved in the non-volatile silicone oil. The topcoat may be substantially free of one or more of the following: colorants, hydrocarbon oils, water, waxes and phenylated silicone oils, polydiglycerides of polyadipic acid and/or volatile oils.

According to a preferred embodiment, the base coat and the top coat are contained in a cosmetic system or "kit". Thus, in certain embodiments, the kit comprises (1) an extended wear lip composition comprising at least one silicone film former, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil; and (2) a topcoat composition comprising at least one second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil carrier.

According to a preferred embodiment, a method is provided for enhancing the appearance of lips comprising applying to the lips a long wearing lip composition comprising at least one silicone film former, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil to form a base coat, and after a waiting period, e.g., sufficient to dry the base coat or allow a sufficient amount of the volatile oil to evaporate; (2) A (topcoat) composition comprising at least one second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil vehicle is applied to form a topcoat over the basecoat.

Preferably, the topcoat composition does not inhibit transfer resistance of the long wear lip composition when the topcoat composition is applied to the long wear lip composition.

The compositions and methods of the present invention may "comprise," consist of, "or" consist essentially of the identified ingredients and process steps. For purposes of the compositions and methods of the present invention, wherein the present invention "consists essentially of defined ingredients and/or process steps, the only" basic and novel property "of such compositions and/or methods is transfer resistance. Furthermore, given that other transfer-resistance enhancing agents or promoters (e.g., additional film forming agents) may be added to the methods and compositions of the present invention in the context of the present invention, the "material effect" on the basic and novel properties of the present invention may only be an adverse effect. That is, because positive effects on transfer resistance (such as those effected by additional film formers) are within the scope of the present invention, only ingredients that have a material adverse effect on transfer resistance will be relevant in determining whether a composition or method is "consisting essentially of" the desired elements.

Without wishing to be bound by theory, applicants believe that the cosmetic system of the present invention is surprisingly able to provide long-lasting body and long-lasting high gloss due to the choice of ingredients. It is believed that the volatile hydrocarbon oil of the basecoat rapidly evaporates, causing the basecoat film former to cure. The non-volatile silicone in the topcoat plasticizes the silicone film former in both the basecoat and the topcoat and forms a durable gloss without damaging the underlying basecoat.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numbers expressing quantities of ingredients, reaction conditions, and so forth used in the specification and claims are to be understood as being modified in all instances by the term "about. Accordingly, unless indicated to the contrary, the numerical parameters set forth in the following specification and attached claims are approximations that may vary depending upon the desired properties sought to be obtained by the present invention.

Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. Any numerical value, however, inherently contains certain errors necessarily resulting from the standard deviation found in their respective testing measurements. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting its scope. Percentages are given on a weight basis.

Examples of the invention

The invention will be better understood by the following examples. These examples are merely non-limiting and illustrative, and the scope of the invention is defined by the claims.

Example 1 compositions according to the invention

The following table shows the base coat and top coat in accordance with examples of the present invention.

Example 2-exemplary Process for preparing the composition of the invention

The basecoat composition is prepared by conventional techniques, such as by: by adding optional fillers to a vessel at room temperature and homogenizing, adding pigment (colorant), homogenizing, adding copolymer such as nylon-611/dimethicone polymer, homogenizing and applying vacuum, adding silicone resin and isododecane at elevated temperature such as 80 ℃, homogenizing, adding additional filler, homogenizing and allowing to cool.

The topcoat composition was prepared by charging a container with dimethicone and adding vitamin E (additional ingredient) under vortex shear; the trimethylsiloxysilicate is added slowly, the mixing speed is increased, and mixing is carried out while the temperature is kept below 35 ℃ until the trimethylsiloxysilicate is sufficiently dispersed.

EXAMPLE 3 durability test

The base coat and top coat in accordance with example 1 were tested together as a cosmetic system. The base coat and top coat were applied to 134 women in a manner consistent with the invention described herein.

After application of the cosmetic system, the female product was asked whether it lasted 16 hours (yes or no). The answer was yes for 107 women (80%). This is surprisingly high, especially for glossy products.

Claims

1. A cosmetic system, comprising:

a lip base coating composition comprising at least one first silicone film former, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil; and

a topcoat composition comprising at least one second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil carrier.

2. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the base coat is a liquid lipstick comprising from about 20% to about 85% of the volatile hydrocarbon oil, from about 5% to about 45% of the first silicone film former, from about 1% to about 20% of the colorant, and wherein the base coat is substantially free of wax, water, and non-volatile oils.

3. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the topcoat consists essentially of the second silicone film former and a non-volatile silicone.

4. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the topcoat comprises at least about 10 wt% of the second silicone film former.

5. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the topcoat comprises from about 15 wt% to about 30 wt% of the second silicone film former.

6. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the topcoat comprises from about 15 wt% to about 25 wt% of the second silicone film former.

7. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the topcoat comprises from about 15 wt% to about 30 wt% of the second silicone film former and from about 65 wt% to about 85 wt% of one or more non-volatile silicone oils.

8. The cosmetic system of claim 7 wherein the second silicone film former comprises trimethylsiloxysilicate.

9. The cosmetic system of claim 7 wherein the one or more non-volatile oils is a non-phenylated silicone oil.

10. The cosmetic system of claim 9 wherein the non-phenylated silicone oil comprises polydimethylsiloxane.

11. The cosmetic system of claim 1, wherein the topcoat layer comprises one or more non-volatile oils and optionally one or more volatile oils, and wherein the concentration of optional one or more volatile oils in the topcoat layer is less than the concentration of the one or more non-volatile oils in the topcoat layer.

12. The cosmetic system of claim 1 wherein the top coat is substantially free of colorants.

13. A method of making up the lips comprising:

will comprise at least one first

A first composition of a silicone film former, a colorant, and a volatile hydrocarbon oil is applied to the lips to form a base coat;

after a waiting period, a second composition comprising at least one second silicone film former in a non-volatile oil carrier is applied to form a top coat over the base coat.

14. A topcoat composition for use on the lips, wherein the topcoat consists essentially of:

about 15% to about 30% by weight of at least one silicone film former;

from about 60% to about 85% of a non-volatile silicone oil; and

from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of one or more cosmetic additives, wherein the at least one silicone film former and the one or more cosmetic additives are dispersed or dissolved in a non-volatile silicone oil carrier.