CN115487092A - 一种隔离防晒霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种隔离防晒霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种隔离防晒霜,其配方配比的重量百分比为:A油相:防晒剂:30‑40%,润肤剂:10‑20%,皮肤调理剂:5‑10%,乳化剂:2‑8%,着色剂:0‑0.3%;B水相:溶剂:20‑25%,保湿剂:10‑15%,稳定剂:0‑2%,抗氧化剂:0‑1%;以上各原料重量百分比之和为100%。本发明的隔离防晒霜集隔离和防晒两种功能于一体,采用物理防晒剂,更加温和、无刺激,在不降低防晒效果的基础上,保持清爽不粘腻质感,并且能提亮修饰肤色,最大限度发挥保湿和防晒效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及化妆品领域,尤其涉及一种隔离防晒霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
防晒霜,是指添加了能阻隔或吸收紫外线的防晒剂来达到防止肌肤被晒黑、晒伤的化妆品。防晒产品中一般添加大量的化学和物理防晒剂以达到防晒效果。但大多数的化学防晒剂是有刺激和易光敏的物质,加入的浓度越高,引起过敏的可能性就越大。物理防晒剂主要是氧化锌、氧化钛等油脂成分,虽有温和无刺激等优点,但缺点是比较油腻,涂抹后容易产生起白情况,如果使用高防晒系数的物理防晒霜,同时不注意卸妆和使用的顺序很容易造成毛孔堵塞,甚至粉刺或者滋生暗疮。
隔离霜主要是为了保护皮肤,减轻不利因素对皮肤造成刺激。隔离霜对紫外线有隔离作用,实质就是防晒。隔离霜中所用的防晒剂和防晒霜是一样,通常分为化学防晒剂和物理防晒剂两类。但是隔离紫外线并不是隔离霜独特的功能,隔离霜的主要功能是帮助妆容更加细腻帖服,效果上更加侧重提亮和修饰肤色。正常情况下,先涂抹防晒霜,然后再涂抹隔离霜,容易增加妆容的厚重感,尤其是夏天会感到十分黏腻。
目前,市面上出现了隔离防晒二合一的产品,方便快捷,可以有效地减少化妆过程中的繁杂步骤,不用涂抹完防晒霜再涂一遍隔离霜,令妆容更加轻薄,但是这类隔离防晒二合一产品虽然有防晒效果,可是防晒指数低,不适合长时间在户外或长时间化妆的人使用。
发明内容
基于背景技术存在的问题,本发明提供了一种隔离防晒霜及其制备方法。本发明的隔离防晒霜集隔离和防晒两种功能于一体,采用物理防晒剂,在不降低防晒效果的基础上,保持清爽不粘腻质感,并且能提亮修饰肤色,最大限度发挥保湿和防晒效果。
本发明通过以下技术方案实施:
一种隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,其配方配比的重量百分比为:
A油相:
防晒剂:30-40%,
润肤剂:10-20%,
皮肤调理剂:5-10%,
乳化剂:2-8%,
着色剂:0.1-0.3%;
B水相:
溶剂:20-25%,
保湿剂:10-15%,
稳定剂:0.1-2%,
抗氧化剂:0.1-1%;
以上各原料重量百分比之和为100%。
进一步地,所述防晒剂为物理防晒剂,物理防晒剂包括疏水改性的二氧化钛和疏水改性的氧化锌;
其中,疏水改性的二氧化钛包括聚甘油-3聚二甲基硅羟乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/环五聚二甲基硅氧烷/氢氧化铝/硬脂酸/二氧化钛(SPD-T5)9-11%和氢氧化铝/硬脂酸/二氧化钛(MT-100TV)9-11%;
疏水改性的氧化锌包括环五聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油-3聚二甲基硅羟乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/三乙氧基甲硅烷基乙基聚二甲基硅氧乙基己基聚二甲基硅氧烷/氧化锌(SPD-Z5)7-10%和氢化聚二甲基硅氧烷/氧化锌(MZY-303S)5-8%。
二氧化钛和氧化锌是一种不溶的颗粒物,分散在化妆品的水相中,在皮肤涂抹过程中容易产生团聚降低防晒效果。疏水改性后的二氧化钛和氧化锌可以分散在化妆品的油相中,具有油包水的界面活性趋势。
进一步地,所述润肤剂包括环五聚二甲基硅氧烷(KF-995)9-16%和异壬酸异壬酯(ININ)1-4%。
环五聚二甲基硅氧烷(KF-995)为挥发性化妆品用硅油,具有清爽、滑爽的触感,可以使皮肤柔软,防止涂抹产品时出现“泛白”现象。
异壬酸异壬酯(ININ)具有独特的多甲基支链结构,丝般感觉,干爽和极度柔软的手感,极佳的润肤剂。对硅油相溶性佳,可解决硅油低温析出的问题。对着色剂有很好的分散能力,粘度低,肤感清爽,无油腻感。
进一步地,所述皮肤调理剂包括辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(BT-6035)2-4%、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物/聚二甲基硅氧烷/双丙甘醇/柠檬酸钠/生育酚(KSG-210)2-4%、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷倍半硅氧烷交联聚合物(KSP-101)1-3%和蚕丝粉0.1-0.3%。
辛基聚甲基硅氧烷(BT-6035)作皮肤调理剂和润滑剂使用,可以增加产品质感,使产品清爽并易于涂抹。
聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物/聚二甲基硅氧烷/双丙甘醇/柠檬酸钠/生育酚(KSG-210)是一种在硅弹性体基础上进行了亲水改性的新型油包水乳化剂,乳化能力较弱,但肤感丝滑不粘腻,稳定性极好,与有机硅相容性优异,具有独特的空间网络结构,可控的水分存储释放体系,可以速出水且水分释放连续,自然可控。
乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷倍半硅氧烷交联聚合物(KSP-101)是独创的复合型硅粉,光滑的硅树脂微球接枝包覆于柔软弹性的硅橡胶微球,如空气感般轻柔光滑触感,能吸收有机硅油兼有控油性,具有增稠特性和柔光效果。
环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和PEG/PPG-18/18聚二甲基硅氧烷(DOW5225CFormulation Aid)是一种高分子量聚醚硅油在环状硅油中的分散液,是环状硅油包水配方的专用分散剂,为润肤剂、保湿剂、防晒剂和着色剂提供出色的传递体系,形成稳定的硅油包水体系。
进一步地,所述着色剂包括CI 77492/三乙氧基辛基硅烷(Ti-K Yellow IronOxide AS)0.05-0.15%、CI 77491/三乙氧基辛基硅烷(Ti-K Red Iron Oxide AS)0.04-0.1%和CI 77499/三乙氧基辛基硅烷(Ti-K Black Iron Oxide AS)0.01-0.05%。
进一步地,所述溶剂为生产用水20-25%;
所述保湿剂包括甘油6-9%、丁二醇4-6%和1,2-己二醇0.1-1%;
所述稳定剂为硫酸镁0.1-2%;
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮0.1-1%。
一种隔离防晒霜及其制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
步骤S1、将A相原料加入油相锅,搅拌升温至85-90℃,均质5-8分钟,混合充分,保温备用;
步骤S2、将B相原料加入真空乳化锅中,搅拌升温至85-90℃,混合充分,保温备用;
步骤S3、将油相锅料体缓慢抽入真空乳化锅中,均质乳化5-8分钟,保温10分钟;
步骤S4、将真空乳化锅降至35-38℃,出料,静置;
步骤S5、检验合格后,灌装,包装,喷码;
步骤S6、抽检合格后,成品入库。
进一步地,步骤S1中的均质速度为1000-3000rpm,步骤S3中的均质速度为2500-3000rpm。
进一步地,隔离防晒霜的制备过程中应用一种乳化自动控制***,乳化自动控制***包含变频器、乳化主锅、油相锅出料电磁阀、主锅搅拌电机、均质电机、压力传感器、PLC控制模块;
所述乳化主锅包含锅体、高速均质器、搅拌桨、可升降锅盖、锅体加热夹层、主锅出料阀、温度传感器;
所述锅体加热夹层包含加热管、冷却水阀和出水阀;
所述锅体底部安装有温度传感器和高速均质器,高速均质器与均质电机固定连接,可升降锅盖上安装有加料口、真空压力表、压力阀、真空阀,主锅搅拌电机与搅拌桨连接,压力传感器、温度传感器与PLC控制模块输入端相连接,油相锅出料电磁阀、主锅出料阀、真空阀、加热管、冷却水阀、出水阀、变频器都与PLC控制模块输出端相连接,变频器与主锅搅拌电机、均质电机连接。
本发明的有益效果:
(1)本发明的隔离防晒霜为油包水体系,疏水改性的二氧化钛和疏水改性的氧化锌均匀分散在体系中,保证了产品的防晒效果,本发明油相中以环状挥发性硅油为主,既提供了硅油的滑爽肤感,又因为是挥发性硅油,硅油挥发后产品快速出水,不显黏腻,保证了产品的保湿性。
(2)本发明的隔离防晒霜中皮肤调理剂各组分起到了协同增效的作用,解决了纯物理防晒剂防晒霜油腻容易起白的问题;本发明的隔离防晒霜相较于添加了化学防晒剂的产品更加温和、无刺激,且本产品清爽不粘腻,上脸易推开不起白,可以提亮修饰肤色,同时本产品的SPF值在30以上,PFA值在11以上,可以满足日常使用。
具体实施方式
下面结合具体实施例对本发明的技术方案做进一步的详述,但本发明的保护范围并不仅限于以下实施例。
实施例中,所使用的实验方法如无特殊说明,均为常规方法,所用的试剂原料见表1。
表1试剂原料生产商及商品名
实施例1-5
一种隔离防晒霜,其配方配比的重量百分比如表2所示,并通过如下步骤制备获得:
步骤S1、将A相原料加入油相锅,搅拌升温至85-90℃,均质5-8分钟,均质速度为2000rpm,混合充分,保温备用;
步骤S2、将B相原料加入真空乳化锅中,搅拌升温至85-90℃,混合充分,保温备用;
步骤S3、将油相锅料体缓慢抽入真空乳化锅中,均质乳化5-8分钟,均质速度为3000rpm,保温10分钟;
步骤S4、将真空乳化锅降至35-38℃,出料,静置;
步骤S5、检验合格后,灌装,包装,喷码;
步骤S6、抽检合格后,成品入库。
表2实施例1-5中各组分及其重量百分比
对比例1-5
本发明中对比例与实施例1的唯一区别在于原料中的皮肤调理剂的组成和含量部分调整,具体见表3。
表3对比例1-5中各组分及其重量百分比
试验一感官肤感评价测试
采用双盲选随机对比测试,由10名肤感评价专家对实施例1-5和对比例1-5的防晒霜样品分别进行对比评分。分别取适量样品于左右手背涂抹,参考表4评分标准,对各阶段的感官肤感进行打分,扣除最大值和最小值,取均值。
表4感官评价指标细则
评价结果详见表5。
表5实施例1-5和对比例1-5的感官肤感评价结果
从表5结果可以看出,相对于实施例1,实施例2中降低防晒剂含量,样品各项性能评分变化并不大,实施例3中增加防晒剂含量,样品的铺展性、厚重感、爽滑感、分散性等指标评分明显降低,影响产品的使用感;实施例4中降低润肤剂含量,样品的铺展性、厚重感、爽滑感等指标评分明显降低,影响产品的使用感,实施例5中增加润肤剂含量,样品的各项性能评分变化不大。对比例1-5对皮肤调理剂的组成和含量进行了调整,各项性能评分明显降低,严重影响了产品的使用感。
试验二防晒效果测试
防晒指数(SPF)是指引起被晒化妆品防护的皮肤产生红斑所需要的MED与未被防护的皮肤产生红斑所需的MED之比,可如下表示:
其中,MED为最小红斑量,是指引起皮肤清晰可见的红斑,其范围达到的照射点大部分区域所需要的紫外线照射最低剂量或最短时间。
UVA防护指数(PFA)是指引起被防晒化妆品防护的皮肤产生黑化所需的MPPD与未被防护的皮肤产生黑化所需的MPPD之比,可如下表示:
其中,MPPD为最小持续性黑化量,是指辐照后2-4小时在整个照射部位皮肤上产生轻微黑化所需要的最小紫外线辐照剂量或最短辐照时间。
根据《化妆品安全技术规范》2015年版第八章人体功效评价检验方法中规定的方法,对实施例1-5和对比例1-5的防晒霜样品的SPF值和PFA值进行测定,具体结果见表6。
表6实施例1-5的SPF值和PFA值的测定结果
从表6结果可以看出,本发明实施例1-5样品的SPF值均在30以上,PFA值在11以上,可以满足日常使用。
试验三保湿效果测试
根据轻工行业标准《QB/T 4256-2011化妆品保湿功效评价指南》测定实施例1-5和对比例1-5的防晒霜样品的保湿效果,通过电容法皮肤水分测定仪每隔2h测定受试区域合对照区域皮肤水分含量,具体结果见表7。
表7实施例1-5和对比例1-5的保湿效果测试结果
从表7结果可以看出,8h后使用实施例1-5样品后,皮肤的水分含量仍能保持在50%左右,而使用对比例1-5样品8h后,皮肤的水分含量只保持在40%左右。
试验四皮肤斑贴实验
根据《化妆品安全技术规范》2015年版第七章人体皮肤斑贴试验中规定的方法,对实施例1-5的防晒霜样品进行测试,按表8标准观察皮肤反应,并记录观察结果。
表8皮肤封闭型斑贴试验皮肤反应分级标准
实验结果:通过皮肤斑贴实验,使用实施例1-5的防晒霜样品的志愿者在24小时后并未出现皮肤不良反应,说明实施例1-5的防晒霜样品使用安全。
通过试验一到四,结果表明,本发明的隔离防晒霜使用纯物理防晒剂,皮肤调理剂的协同增效作用,保证了产品的防晒效果的同时,能够保持清爽不粘腻质感,提高了用户的使用体验感。
在实施例1-5中的隔离防晒霜的制备过程中应用一种乳化自动控制***,乳化自动控制***包含变频器、乳化主锅、油相锅出料电磁阀、主锅搅拌电机、均质电机、压力传感器、PLC控制模块;
所述乳化主锅包含锅体、高速均质器、搅拌桨、可升降锅盖、锅体加热夹层、主锅出料阀、温度传感器;
所述锅体加热夹层包含加热管、冷却水阀和出水阀;
所述锅体底部安装有温度传感器和高速均质器,高速均质器与均质电机固定连接,可升降锅盖上安装有加料口、真空压力表、压力阀、真空阀,主锅搅拌电机与搅拌桨连接,压力传感器、温度传感器与PLC控制模块输入端相连接,油相锅出料电磁阀、主锅出料阀、真空阀、加热管、冷却水阀、出水阀、变频器都与PLC控制模块输出端相连接,变频器与主锅搅拌电机、均质电机连接。
上述发明的工作原理及有益效果:打开电源,将B水相原料通过加料口加入乳化主锅,设定搅拌速度、温度,时间、压力,启动搅拌程序,PLC控制模块发出信号给变频器,控制主锅搅拌电机工作,同时PLC控制模块发送加热指令给加热管进行加热,温度传感器实时反馈测量温度信号给PLC控制模块,PLC基于PID算法通过调节冷却水阀来控制温度范围;搅拌时间到达后,真空阀打开,待真空度达到设定值,关闭真空阀,油相锅出料电磁阀打开,吸入备用的A油相原料,随后关闭油相锅出料电磁阀,PLC控制模块发出信号给变频器,变频器控制均质电机工作,到达设定时间后,保温10分钟。工作过程中压力传感器实时反馈信号给所述PLC控制模块,PLC基于PID算法通过调节压力阀的开度来调节乳化主锅内压力维持在设定值,所有工序完成后,PLC控制模块发送信号给主锅出料阀,排出加工成品。
以实施例1隔离防晒霜的制备方法为基础,试验分析了使用本发明乳化自动控制***对隔离防晒霜挑起性和铺展性的影响,检测方案同试验一,检测结果见表9。
表9乳化自动控制***对隔离防晒霜挑起性和铺展性影响检测结果
乳化过程中自动压力控制减少了泡沫的产生,提高了产品的挑起性和铺展性,自动温度和自动吸料控制节省了人力成本,提高了工作效率,保证了产品的稳定性。
最后应说明的是:以上所述实施例仅表达了本发明的几种实施方式,并不用以限制本发明创造,对于本领域的普通技术人员来说,在不脱离本发明构思的前提下,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明创造的保护范围之内。因此,本发明专利的保护范围应以所附权利要求为准。
Claims (10)
1.一种隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,其配方配比的重量百分比为:
A油相:
防晒剂:30-40%,
润肤剂:10-20%,
皮肤调理剂:5-10%,
乳化剂:2-8%,
着色剂:0.1-0.3%;
B水相:
溶剂:20-25%,
保湿剂:10-15%,
稳定剂:0.1-2%,
抗氧化剂:0.1-1%;
以上各原料重量百分比之和为100%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,所述防晒剂为物理防晒剂,物理防晒剂包括疏水改性的二氧化钛和疏水改性的氧化锌;
其中,疏水改性的二氧化钛包括聚甘油-3聚二甲基硅羟乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/环五聚二甲基硅氧烷/氢氧化铝/硬脂酸/二氧化钛9-11%和氢氧化铝/硬脂酸/二氧化钛9-11%;
疏水改性的氧化锌包括环五聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甘油-3聚二甲基硅羟乙基聚二甲基硅氧烷/三乙氧基甲硅烷基乙基聚二甲基硅氧乙基己基聚二甲基硅氧烷/氧化锌7-10%和氢化聚二甲基硅氧烷/氧化锌5-8%。
3.根据权利要求1所述的隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,所述润肤剂包括环五聚二甲基硅氧烷9-16%和异壬酸异壬酯1-4%。
4.根据权利要求1所述的隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,所述皮肤调理剂包括辛基聚甲基硅氧烷2-4%、聚二甲基硅氧烷PEG-10/15交联聚合物/聚二甲基硅氧烷/双丙甘醇/柠檬酸钠/生育酚2-4%、乙烯基聚二甲基硅氧烷/聚甲基硅氧烷倍半硅氧烷交联聚合物1-3%和蚕丝粉0.1-0.3%。
5.根据权利要求1所述的隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,所述乳化剂为环五聚二甲基硅氧烷/PEG/PPG-18/18聚二甲基硅氧烷2-8%。
6.根据权利要求1所述的隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,所述着色剂包括CI 77492/三乙氧基辛基硅烷0.05-0.15%、CI 77491/三乙氧基辛基硅烷0.04-0.1%和CI 77499/三乙氧基辛基硅烷0.01-0.05%。
7.根据权利要求1所述的隔离防晒霜,其特征在于,所述溶剂为生产用水20-25%;
所述保湿剂包括甘油6-9%、丁二醇4-6%和1,2-己二醇0.1-1%;
所述稳定剂为硫酸镁0.1-2%;
所述抗氧化剂为对羟基苯乙酮0.1-1%。
8.一种隔离防晒霜的制备方法,其特征在于,包括以下步骤:
步骤S1、将A相原料加入油相锅,搅拌升温至85-90℃,均质5-8分钟,混合充分,保温备用;
步骤S2、将B相原料加入真空乳化锅中,搅拌升温至85-90℃,混合充分,保温备用;
步骤S3、将油相锅料体缓慢抽入真空乳化锅中,均质乳化5-8分钟,保温10分钟;
步骤S4、将真空乳化锅降至35-38℃,出料,静置;
步骤S5、检验合格后,灌装,包装,喷码;
步骤S6、抽检合格后,成品入库。
9.根据权利要求8所述的隔离防晒霜的制备方法,其特征在于,步骤S1中的均质速度为1000-3000rpm,步骤S3中的均质速度为2500-3000rpm。
10.根据权利要求8所述的隔离防晒霜的制备方法,其特征在于,隔离防晒霜的制备过程中应用一种乳化自动控制***,乳化自动控制***包含变频器、乳化主锅、油相锅出料电磁阀、主锅搅拌电机、均质电机、压力传感器、PLC控制模块;
所述乳化主锅包含锅体、高速均质器、搅拌桨、可升降锅盖、锅体加热夹层、主锅出料阀、温度传感器;
所述锅体加热夹层包含加热管、冷却水阀和出水阀;
所述锅体底部安装有温度传感器和高速均质器,高速均质器与均质电机固定连接,可升降锅盖上安装有加料口、真空压力表、压力阀、真空阀,主锅搅拌电机与搅拌桨连接,压力传感器、温度传感器与PLC控制模块输入端相连接,油相锅出料电磁阀、主锅出料阀、真空阀、加热管、冷却水阀、出水阀、变频器都与PLC控制模块输出端相连接,变频器与主锅搅拌电机、均质电机连接。
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