CN115444802B - Jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion composition and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion composition and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN115444802B
CN115444802B CN202211079740.XA CN202211079740A CN115444802B CN 115444802 B CN115444802 B CN 115444802B CN 202211079740 A CN202211079740 A CN 202211079740A CN 115444802 B CN115444802 B CN 115444802B
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张荣钢
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Fuzhou Pingqing Daily Cosmetic Co ltd
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Abstract

The invention discloses a jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion composition and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The components of the composition comprise jasmine, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae and pollen Typhae. The composition has excellent moisturizing and skin-moistening effects through the synergistic effect of the components, and is fresh and not greasy in use without adding other moisturizing and skin-moistening components; the composition can effectively improve facial blood circulation, has good repairing effect, and has effect of uniformly brightening skin. The composition is used for preparing the moisturizing essence emulsion, has good effect of improving skin elasticity and has good moisturizing effect.

Description

Jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion composition and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and relates to a jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion composition and a preparation method thereof.
Background
Skin moisturization is the basis of skin care. There are many reasons for reducing the moisture content of skin, such as prolonged exposure to dry environments, ultraviolet radiation, excessive use of cleansing products, aging of cells due to aging, and the like. Along with the improvement of society and the improvement of living standard, the requirements of people on cosmetics are also higher and higher. In recent years, because natural functional components are still in favor of the cosmetic world, the addition of natural plant extracts with moisturizing or antioxidant effects to various skin care cosmetics is an important research direction of the current cosmetics.
Chinese patent CN 113520941A discloses a moisturizing repair composition and a preparation method thereof, wherein the moisturizing repair composition comprises, by weight: 0.08-0.2 part of hydrolyzed small-core fungus glue, 0.15-0.3 part of gluconolactone, 0.2-0.5 part of tocopheryl acetate, 0.3-0.6 part of dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, 0.3-0.6 part of allantoin, 0.4-0.7 part of discolor cinquefoil herb extract, 0.6-1 part of trehalose, 0.8-1.2 part of mirabilis jalapa extract, 1-1.5 part of polyglycerol 10 laurate, 2-4 parts of decyl glucoside, 7-12 parts of glycerin and 75-90 parts of deionized water. The moisturizing repair composition has good moisturizing and repair effects, can effectively repair skin barriers, can effectively relieve skin, repair the balance of elements inside and outside the skin, promote the skin to be free from external stimulation, and strengthen the self safety protection of the skin. However, the use of glycerin in the composition as an emollient has a somewhat sticky feel.
Chinese patent CN 104983632A discloses a plant skin care composition and cosmetic with moisturizing and skin elasticity improving effects, the composition comprises honeysuckle extract, jasmine extract, apple peel extract, wherein the compounding ratio of the honeysuckle extract, the jasmine extract and the apple peel extract is 3-5 by weight based on dry weight of honeysuckle, jasmine and apple peel as raw materials: 7-9: 0.5 to 1.5. The components in the composition act together to have good effects of moisturizing and improving skin elasticity, and can be applied to skin care cosmetics and washing cosmetics to enable the product to have the effects of relieving skin aging and reducing skin wrinkles. Although the composition has certain effects of moisturizing and improving skin elasticity through the combined action of three components of honeysuckle, jasmine and apple peel, the composition can keep certain effects only in a short time and has poor long-term effectiveness.
Therefore, it is necessary to explore a moisturizing composition with natural raw materials, good moisturizing effect and good skin elasticity improving effect and a preparation method thereof.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the problems existing in the prior art, the invention provides the jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion composition with natural raw materials, good moisturizing effect, good skin elasticity improving effect and good repairing effect and the preparation method thereof.
In order to achieve the above purpose, the technical scheme adopted by the invention is as follows:
first, a composition is provided comprising the following components: jasmine flower, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae, and pollen Typhae.
Further, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of jasmine flower, 1-2 parts of herba phyllanthi, 1.5-2.5 parts of fructus momordicae, 0.5-1.5 parts of semen katsumadai, 0.6-1.8 parts of herba violae and 0.5-1.5 parts of pollen typhae.
Preferably, the composition comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-3 parts of jasmine flower, 1.5-2 parts of herba phyllanthi, 1.5-2 parts of fructus momordicae, 0.8-1.3 parts of semen katsumadai, 1-1.5 parts of herba violae and 0.5-1 part of pollen typhae.
Further, the dosage ratio of the herba Lophatheri to the fructus momordicae is 1-2:1.5-2.5, the dosage ratio of the katsumadai seed to the viola yedoensis is 0.5-1.5:0.6-1.8.
Preferably, the dosage ratio of the herba Lophatheri to the fructus momordicae is 1.5-2:1.5-2, the dosage ratio of the katsumadai seed to the viola philippica is 0.8-1.3:1-1.5.
Secondly, a traditional Chinese medicine extract is provided, and the traditional Chinese medicine extract is obtained by extracting the composition.
Still further, there is provided an extraction method of the Chinese medicinal extract, comprising the steps of:
(1) Pulverizing flos Jasmini sambac, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae, and pollen Typhae, sieving with 80-100 mesh sieve to obtain Chinese medicinal powder;
(2) Mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1) according to a feed liquid ratio of 1g: adding 6-8mL into 20-30% ethanol, extracting at 40-50deg.C for 2-3 hr to obtain mixed solution;
(3) Carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution obtained in the step (2);
(4) Gradient eluting the mixed solution obtained after enzymolysis in the step (3) with ethanol, filtering the eluent, and concentrating to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine extract;
the enzyme used in the enzymolysis in the step (3) is one or more of cellulase, hemicellulase and pectase;
the gradient elution in the step (4) is to firstly use 20-30% ethanol for elution and discard the eluent; eluting with 40-45% ethanol, and discarding eluate; finally eluting with 70-80% ethanol, and collecting the eluate.
The percentages of ethanol present in the text are all percent by volume.
Finally, a moisturizing essence emulsion is provided, which comprises the traditional Chinese medicine extract.
Further, the components of the moisturizing milk also comprise one or more of a thickener, an emulsifier, a coemulsifier, a pH regulator, a preservative and deionized water.
Further, the thickener is one or two of carbomer and xanthan gum; the emulsifier is sorbitan stearate; the auxiliary emulsifier is cetostearyl alcohol; the pH regulator is triethanolamine; the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
Further, the traditional Chinese medicine extract accounts for 5-15% of the moisture-keeping essence milk in percentage by mass.
Further, the jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion provided by the invention comprises the following components in parts by weight:
5-15 parts of a traditional Chinese medicine extract; 0.3-0.5 parts of carbomer; 0.2-0.4 parts of xanthan gum; 3-7 parts of sorbitan stearate; 3-5 parts of cetostearyl alcohol; 0.2-0.4 part of triethanolamine; 0.8-1 part of phenoxyethanol; deionized water was added to 100 parts.
In the composition of the present invention:
jasmine flower has the effects of cold nature, light smell, flatulence elimination, pungent and sweet taste, warm nature, qi-flowing regulating, pain relieving, stomach warming, detumescence, detoxification, immunity system strengthening, and has good anti-inflammatory and detoxification effects on diarrhea, abdominal pain, conjunctivitis, sore toxin and the like.
Herba Lophatheri has effects of clearing heat and detoxicating, dispelling pathogenic wind and removing dampness, relieving pain, and promoting urination. Can be used for treating hepatitis, arthralgia, soreness of waist, leg pain, gastralgia, stranguria, pain due to urination, tinea pedis, edema, scrofula, tuberculosis, toothache, sore throat, common cold, infantile convulsion, infantile malnutrition, cough, food poisoning, falling injury, snake bite, and traumatic hemorrhage.
Momordica grosvenori is known as "Shen Xian Guo", cool in nature and sweet in taste. Enter lung and large intestine meridians. Has effects of clearing heat, moistening lung, relieving cough, relieving sore throat, and relaxing bowels. Clinically, it is mainly used for cough due to dryness of lung fire, pharyngalgia, aphonia, constipation due to dryness of intestine.
Semen Alpiniae has effects of warming middle energizer and eliminating dampness, activating qi-flowing and invigorating spleen, and can be used for treating inappetence, stomach and abdominal distention and pain, nausea and emesis. In Yun Dou kou from Ben Cao Jing Shu, pungent and energy-resolving stagnation, fragrant and energy-entering into the spleen, warm heat energy-dispelling cold and drying dampness, so it is also indicated for middle energizer and cold-guest middle energizer, heart-abdominal pain and vomiting due to middle cold.
Viola yedoensis makino: bitter and pungent in flavor and cold in nature. It enters heart and liver meridians. Has effects of clearing heat and detoxicating. Has effects in clearing away heat, relieving swelling, and relieving inflammation.
Pollen Typhae is dry pollen of Typha latifolia L, typha orientalis L or the same genus plant; harvesting yellow male inflorescences at the upper part of the cattail rods in summer, sun-drying, rolling, screening pollen, shearing male flowers, sun-drying to obtain pollen with male flowers, namely grass cattail pollen; sweet, calm, enter liver and pericardium meridians, and has the actions of stopping bleeding, resolving stasis and treating stranguria.
In some specific embodiments, a method for preparing a traditional Chinese medicine extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing flos Jasmini sambac, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae, and pollen Typhae, sieving with 80-100 mesh sieve to obtain Chinese medicinal powder;
(2) Mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1) according to a feed liquid ratio of 1g:7mL of the extract is added into 25% ethanol, and the extract is extracted for 2 hours at 50 ℃ to obtain a mixed solution;
(3) Carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution obtained in the step (2) by using cellulase and hemicellulase (the mass ratio of the cellulase to the hemicellulase is 1:1.5), wherein the mass ratio of the mixed solution to the total enzyme is 40:1, a step of;
(4) Gradient eluting the mixed solution obtained after enzymolysis in the step (3) with ethanol, filtering the eluent, and concentrating to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine extract;
the gradient elution is to firstly elute with 25% ethanol and discard the eluent; eluting with 40% ethanol, and discarding eluate; finally, eluting with 80% ethanol, and collecting the eluent.
A preparation process of jasmine moisturizing essence milk comprises the following steps:
(1) Adding deionized water into emulsifying pot, homogenizing, sprinkling carbomer and xanthan gum into water vortex, homogenizing, adding Chinese medicinal extract into the pot, stirring and heating to 70-80deg.C, and maintaining for 10min;
(2) Adding sorbitan stearate and cetostearyl alcohol into a pot, stirring and heating to 70-80 ℃ until the sorbitan stearate and the cetostearyl alcohol are completely dissolved;
(3) Pumping the materials in the pan into an emulsifying pan, homogenizing for 6-8min, stirring, and cooling;
(4) Cooling to 50 ℃, adding phenoxyethanol and triethanolamine into an emulsifying pot, and uniformly stirring;
(5) Stirring and cooling to 40 ℃ to obtain the moisturizing essence emulsion.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
(1) The composition has natural raw materials and wide sources, and is used for preparing the moisturizing emulsion without stimulation; the traditional Chinese medicine components in the composition have synergistic effect, have excellent moisturizing and skin-moisturizing effects, do not need to add other moisturizing and skin-moisturizing components, and have fresh and non-greasy use feeling;
(2) The composition can effectively improve the blood circulation of the face, has good repairing effect and has the effect of uniformly brightening the skin color;
(3) The composition has good effect of improving skin elasticity;
(4) The composition of the invention has good moisturizing effect.
Detailed Description
It is to be noted that the raw materials used in the present invention are all common commercial products, and the sources thereof are not particularly limited.
The extraction method of the traditional Chinese medicine extract comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing flos Jasmini sambac, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae, and pollen Typhae, sieving with 80-100 mesh sieve to obtain Chinese medicinal powder;
(2) Mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1) according to a feed liquid ratio of 1g:7mL of the extract is added into 25% ethanol, and the extract is extracted for 2 hours at 50 ℃ to obtain a mixed solution;
(3) Carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution obtained in the step (2) by using cellulase and hemicellulase (the mass ratio of the cellulase to the hemicellulase is 1:1.5), wherein the mass ratio of the mixed solution to the total enzyme is 40:1, a step of;
(4) Gradient eluting the mixed solution obtained after enzymolysis in the step (3) with ethanol, filtering the eluent, and concentrating to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine extract;
the gradient elution is to firstly elute with 25% ethanol and discard the eluent; eluting with 40% ethanol, and discarding eluate; finally, eluting with 80% ethanol, and collecting the eluent.
A preparation process of a jasmine moisturizing essence emulsion composition comprises the following steps:
(1) Adding deionized water into emulsifying pot, homogenizing, sprinkling carbomer and xanthan gum into water vortex, homogenizing, adding Chinese medicinal extract into the pot, stirring and heating to 70-80deg.C, and maintaining for 10min;
(2) Adding sorbitan stearate and cetostearyl alcohol into a pot, stirring and heating to 70-80 ℃ until the sorbitan stearate and the cetostearyl alcohol are completely dissolved;
(3) Pumping the materials in the pan into an emulsifying pan, homogenizing for 6-8min, stirring, and cooling;
(4) Cooling to 50 ℃, adding phenoxyethanol and triethanolamine into an emulsifying pot, and uniformly stirring;
(5) Stirring and cooling to 40 ℃ to obtain the moisturizing essence emulsion.
The preparation process of the traditional Chinese medicine extract and moisturizing essence emulsion composition of examples 1-5 is carried out in the above manner, and the preparation process of example 6 is different in that the mixed solution in the extraction method step (4) of the traditional Chinese medicine extract is eluted 3 times with 50% ethanol.
Examples 1 to 6
The formulations of the moisturizing cream of examples 1 to 6 are shown in Table 1:
TABLE 1
Sequence number Component (A) Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6
1 Jasmine flower 2.5 2 3 1 3 2.5
2 Herba Lophatheri 1.8 2 1.5 2 1 1.8
3 Momordica grosvenori 1.6 1.5 2 1.5 2.5 1.6
4 Semen Alpiniae 1 1.3 0.8 1.5 0.5 1
5 Viola philippica 1.2 1 1.5 0.6 1.8 1.2
6 Pollen Typhae 0.7 1 0.5 1.5 0.5 0.7
7 Deionized water To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100 To 100
8 Carbomer (carbomer) 5 5 5 5 5 5
9 Xanthan gum 1 1 1 1 1 1
10 Sorbitan stearate 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
11 Cetostearyl alcohol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8
12 Triethanolamine salt 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2
13 Phenoxyethanol 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15
Note that: in the above table, the sum of the parts by weight of the added water and the parts by weight of the other components is 100 parts.
Comparative examples 1 to 5
The formulas of the moisturizing cream of comparative examples 1 to 5 are shown in table 2:
TABLE 2
Figure BDA0003832476690000061
Figure BDA0003832476690000071
Note that: in the above table, the sum of the parts by weight of the added water and the parts by weight of the other components is 100 parts.
Effect tests were performed on the moisturizing cream prepared in examples 1 to 6 and comparative examples 1 to 5 above.
Skin moisturizing effect test
20 volunteers aged 20-65 years, with healthy skin and no history of cosmetic allergy were selected, and 11 samples were tested per person. Before the test, the left and right forearms were cleaned, the moisture was wiped clean, the skin temperature and humidity were equilibrated with the environment for at least 30min in a constant temperature and humidity chamber having a relative humidity of 50.+ -. 5%, 11 test areas of 3cm×3CM were drawn on the inner sides of the left and right forearms, the stratum corneum moisture content of the test site was measured using a CM825 skin moisture test probe, and the average value of 5 measurements was taken as the test value, and the result was expressed as the skin hydration (MMV) change rate. Then taking samples of examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-5 at a concentration of (2.0.+ -. 0.1) mg/cm 2 Is applied to the test site and MMV of the stratum corneum is measured in the same way for 3 hours. The MMV rate of change is calculated as:
skin hydration rate = { [ skin hydration (at test) -skin hydration (control) ]/skin hydration (control) } ×100%.
The skin stratum corneum hydration MMV was measured as shown in table 3, where the data is the mean of the test values for 20 volunteers.
TABLE 3 skin stratum corneum hydration MMV (a.u)
Time 0h (control) 3h
Example 1 21.67 38.65
Example 2 21.56 37.34
Example 3 21.34 37.83
Example 4 21.78 35.21
Example 5 21.48 35.69
Example 6 21.58 32.16
Comparative example 1 21.41 29.89
Comparative example 2 21.81 28.15
Comparative example 3 21.52 29.25
Comparative example 4 21.69 27.33
Comparative example 5 21.36 25.79
The skin stratum corneum hydration degree change rate was calculated according to table 3 to obtain table 4.
TABLE 4 skin hydration rate after 3h (%)
MMV change Rate%
Example 1 78.36%
Examples2 73.19%
Example 3 77.27%
Example 4 61.66%
Example 5 66.15%
Example 6 49.03%
Comparative example 1 39.61%
Comparative example 2 29.07%
Comparative example 3 35.92%
Comparative example 4 26.00%
Comparative example 5 20.74%
Skin elasticity test:
11 volunteers aged 30-35 years old, healthy skin, no cosmetic allergy history and close elastic parameter R2 (skin around eyes) were selected, and the moisturizing essence milk samples prepared in examples 1-6 and comparative examples 1-5 were applied respectively, and the corresponding samples were applied 2 times daily in the morning and evening, and each time was applied 2.0 mg.+ -. 0.1mg sample/cm 2 After continuous use for 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks and 4 weeks, the application sites of volunteers were washed at the same time every week, and the sites to be measured were measured using a skin elasticity tester Revisclometer RV600, respectively.
The skin elasticity value is the ratio of the rebound quantity of the skin without negative pressure to the maximum stretching quantity with negative pressure, and the closer the ratio is to 1, the better the skin elasticity is. The measurement is mainly performed on the skin at the position around the eyes, and the measured value at the position can more effectively describe the skin elasticity change. In the measurement, the same test point was measured 3 times each, and the average value of the points was obtained. Testing of the same volunteer was done by the same measurer.
The skin elasticity parameters have a number of ratios, indicating the ability of the skin to return to its original state after stretching, the closer the ratio is to 1, the better the skin elasticity. The test adopts the elasticity parameter R2 as an evaluation basis and is used for evaluating the change and influence of different samples on skin elasticity. Due to the varying degree of skin aging, different elastic characteristics are exhibited when measured by the instrument.
Skin elasticity values of 11 volunteers after applying 11 test samples for 1 week, 2 weeks, 3 weeks and 4 weeks, respectively, were determined and the average value was calculated. The test results are shown in Table 5.
TABLE 5 skin elasticity test results
Figure BDA0003832476690000091
In the above table, the elastic change rate = { [ R2 value after 4 weeks of sample application-R2 value before sample application (0 weeks) ]/R2 value before sample application } ×100%.
Finally, it should be noted that the above description is only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention, and not for limiting the scope of the present invention, and that the simple modification and equivalent substitution of the technical solution of the present invention can be made by those skilled in the art without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims (9)

1. A composition comprising the following components: jasmine flower, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae, and pollen Typhae;
the weight ratio of the herba Lophatheri to the fructus momordicae is 1-2:1.5-2.5, wherein the weight ratio of the katsumadai seed to the viola philippica is 0.5-1.5:0.6-1.8;
the extraction method of the composition comprises the following steps:
(1) Pulverizing flos Jasmini sambac, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae, and pollen Typhae, sieving with 80-100 mesh sieve to obtain Chinese medicinal powder;
(2) Mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1) according to a feed liquid ratio of 1g: adding 6-8mL into 20-30% ethanol, extracting at 40-50deg.C for 2-3 hr to obtain mixed solution;
(3) Carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution obtained in the step (2);
(4) Gradient eluting the mixed solution obtained after enzymolysis in the step (3) with ethanol, filtering the eluent, and concentrating to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine extract;
the enzyme used in the enzymolysis in the step (3) is one or more of cellulase, hemicellulase and pectase;
the gradient elution in the step (4) is to firstly use 20-30% ethanol for elution and discard the eluent; eluting with 40-45% ethanol, and discarding eluate; finally eluting with 70-80% ethanol, and collecting the eluate.
2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises the following components in parts by weight: 1-3 parts of jasmine flower, 1-2 parts of herba phyllanthi, 1.5-2.5 parts of fructus momordicae, 0.5-1.5 parts of semen katsumadai, 0.6-1.8 parts of herba violae and 0.5-1.5 parts of pollen typhae.
3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises the following components in parts by weight: 2-3 parts of jasmine flower, 1.5-2 parts of herba phyllanthi, 1.5-2 parts of fructus momordicae, 0.8-1.3 parts of semen katsumadai, 1-1.5 parts of herba violae and 0.5-1 part of pollen typhae.
4. The composition of claim 1, wherein the weight ratio of the phyllanthus emblica and the momordica grosvenori is 1.5-2:1.5-2, wherein the weight ratio of the katsumadai seed to the viola philippica is 0.8-1.3:1-1.5.
5. A traditional Chinese medicine extract, characterized in that it is obtained by extraction from the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4.
6. The method for extracting a Chinese medicinal extract according to claim 5, comprising the steps of:
(1) Pulverizing flos Jasmini sambac, herba Lophatheri, fructus Siraitiae Grosvenorii, semen Alpiniae Katsumadai, herba Violae, and pollen Typhae, sieving with 80-100 mesh sieve to obtain Chinese medicinal powder;
(2) Mixing the traditional Chinese medicine powder obtained in the step (1) according to a feed liquid ratio of 1g: adding 6-8mL into 20-30% ethanol, extracting at 40-50deg.C for 2-3 hr to obtain mixed solution;
(3) Carrying out enzymolysis on the mixed solution obtained in the step (2);
(4) Gradient eluting the mixed solution obtained after enzymolysis in the step (3) with ethanol, filtering the eluent, and concentrating to obtain a traditional Chinese medicine extract;
the enzyme used in the enzymolysis in the step (3) is one or more of cellulase, hemicellulase and pectase;
the gradient elution in the step (4) is to firstly use 20-30% ethanol for elution and discard the eluent; eluting with 40-45% ethanol, and discarding eluate; finally eluting with 70-80% ethanol, and collecting the eluate.
7. A moisturizing cream comprising the herbal extract of claim 6.
8. The moisturizing cream of claim 7, further comprising one or more of a thickener, an emulsifier, a co-emulsifier, a pH adjuster, a preservative, deionized water.
9. The moisturizing essence emulsion of claim 8, wherein the traditional Chinese medicine extract accounts for 5-15% of the moisturizing essence emulsion by mass.
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