CN114959995B - 一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法 - Google Patents

一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法 Download PDF

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CN114959995B
CN114959995B CN202210627816.1A CN202210627816A CN114959995B CN 114959995 B CN114959995 B CN 114959995B CN 202210627816 A CN202210627816 A CN 202210627816A CN 114959995 B CN114959995 B CN 114959995B
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yarn
wool
polyester
polyvinyl alcohol
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CN114959995A (zh
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梅立花
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Jiangsu Dongtu Textile Co ltd
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Abstract

本申请涉及面料技术领域，具体公开了一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，所述制备方法，具体包括以下制备步骤：先采用羊毛与涤纶梳理成毛条染色后混纺得到毛涤混纺纱，再以毛涤混纺纱作为外层包覆纱，氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术制得单纱，最后单纱加捻后采用平纹组织织造得到毛涤高支单经单纬面料；另外，在单纱中可以添加改性聚乙烯醇纤维，制得面料后再通过退维工艺清除；本申请还可以对制得的面料进行后处理。上述方案制备方法简单，制备成本低，制得的面料呢面细洁，弹性优良，手感丝滑，具有抗皱、抗菌、透气、轻薄柔软的优点，且吸湿排汗效果优异。

Description

一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法
技术领域
本申请涉及面料技术领域，更具体地说，它涉及一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法。
背景技术
随着经济与科技的高速发展，人类的生活水平不断提高，对于着装的要求越来越严格。为了迎合消费者的需求，纺织面料的发展呈现出“原料多元化、结构轻薄化、风格潮流化、使用功能化”的趋势。单经单纬产品以其风格新颖、呢面细腻、手感柔和、纹路清晰、立体感强的特点受到消费者的喜爱。
单经单纬产品采用单纱织造，单纱有突出的风格及成本优势，性价比高，但与股线相比，存在纱线强力均匀度不够好，条干不均匀，毛羽较多，织造效率不高等问题。且相关技术中，毛纺单纱作经纱，考虑织造批量化生产的可行性，纱支一般在40/1以下，呢面的细致度、薄度都受到限制。因此，如何增强单纱的强度，减少条干不均度和毛羽，提高纱线支数，是目前单经单纬面料亟需解决的问题。
发明内容
为了解决现有的单经单纬面料中存在的单纱强力差、条干不均匀、毛羽多、支数低等问题，本申请提供了一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法。
本申请提供了一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，采用如下的技术方案：一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，具体包括以下制备步骤：
S1、采用羊毛与涤纶梳理成毛条染色后，按照混纺比(60/40)-(70/30)进行混纺得到毛涤混纺纱；
S2、将S1得到的毛涤混纺纱作为外层包覆纱，氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术，控制氨涤弹力包芯纱的牵伸倍数为2.5-3.5倍，制得(44-50)/1的单纱；
S3、将S2所得的单纱进行加捻，捻度设定为1000-1200捻/米，随后采用平纹组织织造得到毛涤高支单经单纬面料。
通过采用上述技术方案，在制备过程中，通过控制毛涤的混纺比、氨涤弹力包芯纱的牵伸倍数、单纱的支数、单纱的捻度等工艺参数，使制得的面料透气轻薄，具有优异的抗皱性能。
另外通过采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术，降低了单纱的毛羽数量、毛羽长度和条干不匀度，提高了单纱的强力、断裂伸长率等力学性能，进而提高了单纱的织造效率，使最终制得的面料具有良好的力学性能。
优选的，所述步骤S1中的羊毛为细度65-75s的美利奴羊毛，涤纶为细度1.5-3D的涤纶长丝；进一步优选，羊毛为细度70s的美利奴羊毛，涤纶为细度2.2D的涤纶长丝。
优选的，所述步骤S2中的氨涤弹力包芯纱的细度为30D/30D。
通过采用上述技术方案，美利奴羊毛具有良好的弹性和生物可降解性，且透气性、吸湿性与透湿性优异，选用美利奴羊毛与涤纶的混纺纱作为外层包覆纱，使制得的面料的透气性、吸湿性得到了极大的提高。同时，氨涤弹力包芯纱具有强度高、弹性好、耐热性好、耐磨性好、耐光性好、耐腐蚀等优点，以氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，使制得的面料具有穿着舒适、手感柔软的优势，且易洗快干，保形性好。
另外，通过控制羊毛、涤纶以及氨涤弹力包芯纱的细度，使制得的纱线具有吸湿透气性能的同时，还具有良好的力学性能。其中选用70s的美利奴羊毛、2.2D的涤纶长丝、30D/30D的氨涤弹力包芯纱，所制得的单纱的综合性能最佳。
优选的，所述步骤S2中的单纱还包括原料改性聚乙烯醇纤维，所述改性聚乙烯醇纤维的细度为1-5D。
优选的，所述改性聚乙烯醇纤维，包括以下重量份的原料：70-90份聚乙烯醇纤维、10-20份改性剂、5-10份壳聚糖。所述的改性剂为苹果酸、柠檬酸、山梨酸中的至少一种。
优选的，所述改性剂由质量比(3-7):5:(2-6)的苹果酸、柠檬酸、山梨酸复配而得。
优选的，所述改性聚乙烯醇纤维，由以下方法制得：
先将改性剂与壳聚糖混合形成涂层液，再将涂层液均匀涂覆到聚乙烯醇纤维的表面，涂覆速度为40-50m/min；最后将涂层后的聚乙烯醇纤维置于真空烘箱中，在40-60℃下烘干30-60min，制得改性聚乙烯醇纤维。
通过采用上述技术方案，将苹果酸、柠檬酸、山梨酸三者复配后作为改性剂，复配物中的羧基与聚乙烯醇纤维的羟基会发生酯化反应，经酯化改性后的聚乙烯醇纤维由于引入了水溶性的阴离子基团酯基，使得改性聚乙烯醇纤维在水中的溶解温度降低。
另外，壳聚糖具有良好的吸附性、成膜性，添加壳聚糖与改性剂混合后形成涂层整理液，可以使苹果酸、柠檬酸和山梨酸更好地接枝到聚乙烯醇纤维的表面，形成光滑致密的涂层结构，从而进一步提高改性聚乙烯醇的水溶性，并增强聚乙烯醇纤维的力学性能，提高聚乙烯醇纤维的织造效率。
优选的，所述毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，具体包括以下制备步骤：
S1、采用羊毛与涤纶梳理成毛条染色后，按照混纺比(60/40)-(70/30)进行混纺得到毛涤混纺纱；
S2、将S1得到的毛涤混纺纱作为外层包覆纱，氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术，控制氨涤弹力包芯纱的牵伸倍数为2.5-3.5倍，制得纱线；再将纱线与改性聚乙烯醇纤维按(80/20)-(90/10)的比例混纺，得到(44-50)/1的单纱；
S3、将S2所得的单纱进行加捻，捻度设定为1000-1200捻/米，随后采用平纹组织织造得到坯布；
S4、坯布在温度为30-40℃下进行退维，时间为10-30min，经循环清水冲洗2次，将改性聚乙烯醇纤维退除干净，得到毛涤高支单经单纬面料。
通过采用上述技术方案，在单纱中添加改性聚乙烯醇纤维，改性聚乙烯醇纤维作为伴纺纤维，能够显著提高纱线强力，改善单纱可纺性能，进而提高单纱的可纺支数。同时通过控制退维温度和退维时间，能够使制得面料中的改性聚乙烯醇纤维退除干净，使制得的面料更加透气轻薄。本申请选用改性聚乙烯醇纤维，能够有效避免由于退维温度过高对羊毛造成损伤，保证最终制得的面料的综合性能优异。
优选的，所述毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，还包括后处理工序，具体操作如下：
采用二浸二轧的方式，将整理液涂布到毛涤高支单经单纬面料上，随后经洗呢、烘干、刷剪毛、电压、罐蒸即得。
优选的，所述整理液，包括以下重量份的原料：2-6份抗菌剂、1-4份抗静电剂、1-2份柔顺剂、1-3份防缩剂、0.6-1份分散剂、1-3份渗透剂。
通过采用上述技术方案，在整理液中添加抗菌剂、抗静电剂、柔顺剂、防缩剂、分散剂、渗透剂等原料，使制得的面料具有抗菌、抗静电、不易起球等优异性能，进一步优化了面料的综合性能。同时面料经洗呢、烘干、刷剪毛、电压、罐蒸等工序进一步处理，使所得面料蓬松，手感丝滑，提高了舒适感。
优选的，所述抗菌剂由质量比(4-7):(1-3):(8-12)的纳米银、黄连素、石榴皮提取液混合复配而得。
通过采用上述技术方案，采用纳米银、黄连素、石榴皮提取液三者复配作为抗菌剂，三者复配具有显著的协同抗菌效果，使制得的面料对多种致病微生物都具有强烈的抑制和杀灭作用。同时纳米银的添加，也可以起到抗静电的作用，使得面料不易起静电、起球。
优选的，所述抗静电剂为纳米铜、纳米镍中的至少一种。
优选的，所述柔顺剂为茶树油。
优选的，所述防缩剂为荷叶提取物。
优选的，所述分散剂为吐温。
优选的，所述渗透剂为脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚。
综上所述，本申请具有以下有益效果：
1.本申请以氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，羊毛与涤纶的混纺纱作为外层包覆纱制得单纱，使制得面料的吸湿透气性得到提高，同时采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术，使制得的单纱条干均匀，力学性能好，进而提高单纱的织造效率。在单纱中添加改性聚乙烯醇纤维，改性聚乙烯醇纤维作为伴纺纤维，避免由于退维温度过高对羊毛造成损伤，提高了单纱的强力，改善了单纱的可纺性能，提高单纱的可纺支数。经退维后所制得的面料的单纱支数更高，进一步增强了面料的吸湿透气性能。另外，通过后处理工序，使得面料具有抗菌、抗静电、不起球等优异性能。
2.本申请的制备方法简单，制备成本低，制得的高支单经单纬面料，呢面细洁，弹性优良，手感丝滑，具有优异的抗皱、透气吸湿等性能，且面料的克重可以控制在200-250克/米之间，面料轻薄，提高了穿着舒适感。
具体实施方式
以下结合实施例对本申请作进一步详细说明。
制备例1-3提供了改性聚乙烯醇纤维及其制备方法，以下以制备例1为例进行说明。
制备例1
改性聚乙烯醇纤维包括以下原料：70kg聚乙烯醇纤维、10kg改性剂、5kg壳聚糖。改性剂由质量比3:5:2的苹果酸、柠檬酸、山梨酸复配而得。
改性聚乙烯醇纤维由以下方法制得：
先将改性剂与壳聚糖混合形成涂层液，再将涂层液均匀涂覆到聚乙烯醇纤维的表面，涂覆速度约为40m/min；最后将涂层后的聚乙烯醇纤维置于真空烘箱中，在60℃下烘干30min，制得改性聚乙烯醇纤维。
制备例2、3，同制备例1，不同之处仅在于：原料选用重量不同，以及制备过程中的工艺参数不同，具体见表1。
表1：
实施例1-9提供了一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，以下以实施例1为例进行说明。
实施例1
一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，具体包括以下制备步骤：
S1、采用65s美利奴羊毛与1.5D涤纶长丝梳理成毛条染色后，按照混纺比60/40进行混纺得到毛涤混纺纱；
S2、将S1得到的毛涤混纺纱作为外层包覆纱，30D/30D氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术，控制氨涤弹力包芯纱的牵伸倍数为2.5倍，制得44/1的单纱；
S3、将S2所得的单纱进行加捻，捻度设定为1200捻/米，随后采用平纹组织织造得到毛涤高支单经单纬面料。
实施例2、3，同实施例1，不同之处仅在于：原料选用细度不同，以及制备过程中的工艺参数不同，具体见表2。
表2：
实施例4
一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，具体包括以下制备步骤：
S1、采用70s美利奴羊毛与2.2D涤纶长丝梳理成毛条染色后，按照混纺比65/35进行混纺得到毛涤混纺纱；
S2、将S1得到的毛涤混纺纱作为外层包覆纱，30D/30D氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术，控制氨涤弹力包芯纱的牵伸倍数为2.8倍，制得纱线；再将纱线与制备1中的改性聚乙烯醇纤维按80/20混纺比进行混纺，得到44/1的单纱；
S3、将S2所得的单纱进行加捻，捻度设定为1080捻/米，随后采用平纹组织织造得到坯布；
S4、坯布在温度为40℃下进行退维，时间为10min，经循环清水冲洗2次，将改性聚乙烯醇纤维退除干净，得到毛涤高支单经单纬面料。
实施例5、6，同实施例4，不同之处仅在于：原料改性聚乙烯醇纤维的具体选用不同，以及制备过程中的部分工艺参数不同，具体见表3。
表3：
实施例 实施例4 实施例5 实施例6
改性聚乙烯醇纤维 制备例1 制备例2 制备例3
混纺比 80/20 85/15 90/10
单纱支数 44/1 45/1 50/1
退维温度/℃ 40 35 30
退维时间/min 10 28 40
实施例7
一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，具体包括以下制备步骤：
称取2kg抗菌剂、1kg抗静电剂、1kg柔顺剂、1kg防缩剂、0.6kg份分散剂、1kg渗透剂均匀混合后得到整理液；采用二浸二轧的方式，将整理液涂布到实施例5得到的毛涤高支单经单纬面料上，随后经洗呢、烘干、刷剪毛、电压、罐蒸即得到后处理的面料。
实施例8、9，同实施例7，不同之处仅在于：整理液原料选用重量不同，具体见表4。
表4：
为了验证本申请提供的一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的性能，申请人设置了对比例1-10，其中：对比例1，同实施例1，不同之处在于：采用细度为60D氨纶代替30D/30D氨涤弹力包芯纱作为单纱的芯纱；采用普通环锭纺技术代替紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术制得单纱。
对比例2，同实施例4，不同之处仅在于：制备1中不添加壳聚糖。
对比例3，同实施例4，不同之处仅在于：制备1中的改性剂改为10kg苹果酸。
对比例4，同实施例4，不同之处仅在于：制备1中的改性剂改为10kg柠檬酸。
对比例5，同实施例4，不同之处仅在于：制备1中的改性剂改为10kg山梨酸。
对比例6，同实施例7，不同之处在于：抗菌剂改为2kg纳米银。
对比例7，同实施例7，不同之处在于：抗菌剂改为2kg黄连素。
对比例8，同实施例7，不同之处在于：抗菌剂改为2kg石榴皮提取液。
对比例9，同实施例7，不同之处在于：抗静电剂改为1kg纳米铜。
对比例10，同实施例7，不同之处在于：抗静电剂改为1kg纳米镍。
分别检测本申请实施例1-9和对比例1-10中的单纱和毛涤高支单经单纬面料的主要性能，得出如下结果参数，具体见表5：
测试单纱的条干不均度参照国标GB/T 3292.1-2008；
测试单纱的拉伸断裂性能参照国标GB/T 3916-1999；
测试面料的撕破性能参照国标GB/T 3917.1-2009；
测试面料的折皱回复角度参照国标GB/T 3819-1997；
测试面料的透气性参照国标GB/T 12704.1-2009；
测试面料的吸湿速干性能参照国标GB/T 21655.1-2008；
测试面料的抗菌性参照国标GB/T 20944.2-2007；
测试面料的抗静电性参照国标GB/T 24249-2009。
表5：
由上述表5显示数据可知：本申请实施例1-9中制得的单纱的条干不均度小，且拉伸断裂性能优异；最终制得的面料具有良好的吸湿透气性，抗菌抗静电性能显著，同时面料的力学性能和抗皱性能也得到了提高。
由实施例1和对比例1可知：本申请实施例1选用30D/30D氨涤包芯弹力纱作为芯纱，并采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术制得单纱，较对比例1选用60D氨纶作为芯纱，并采用普通环锭纺技术制得单纱；前者所得单纱的条干不均度明显降低，纱线光洁，纱线断裂强力增强15％，织造效率提高15％，在织造中磨擦不易产生毛粒，减少30％的修布工时；所制得的面料具有良好的力学性能和抗皱性能。
由实施例6和对比例2可知：本申请实施例6添加壳聚糖与改性剂相结合对聚乙烯醇纤维进行改性，较对比例2单独使用改性剂对聚乙烯醇纤维进行改性，实施例6所得面料的透气吸湿性以及力学性能得到了增强。
由实施例6和对比例3-5可知：本申请实施例6选用苹果酸、柠檬酸、山梨酸复配物作为改性剂，较对比例3-5中分别单独选用苹果酸、柠檬酸或山梨酸作为改性剂添加到涂层液中，实施例6所得面料的透气性和力学性能明显得到改善。
由实施例7和对比例6-8可知：本申请实施例7选用纳米银、黄连素与石榴皮提取液的复配物作为抗菌剂，较对比例6-8中分别单独选用纳米银、黄连素或石榴皮提取液作为抗菌剂添加到整理液中，实施例7所得的面料的抑菌率较高，抗菌效果明显，同时面料的抗静电性能也得到提高。
由实施例7和对比例9、10可知，本申请实施例7选用纳米铜和纳米镍的复配物作为抗静电剂，较对比例9、10中分别单独选用纳米铜、纳米镍做抗静电剂添加到整理液中，实施例7所得面料的抗静电性能更好，改善了面料易起静电、起球的现象。
本具体实施例仅仅是对本申请的解释，其并不是对本申请的限制，本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改，但只要在本申请的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。

Claims (3)

1.一种毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，其特征在于，具体包括以下制备步骤：
S1、采用羊毛与涤纶梳理成毛条染色后，按照混纺比（60/40）-（70/30）进行混纺得到毛涤混纺纱；
S2、将S1得到的毛涤混纺纱作为外层包覆纱，氨涤弹力包芯纱作为芯纱，采用紧密赛络菲尔纺纱技术，控制氨涤弹力包芯纱的牵伸倍数为2.5-3.5倍，制得纱线；再将纱线与改性聚乙烯醇纤维按（80/20）-（90/10）的比例混纺，得到（44-50）/1的单纱；
S3、将S2所得的单纱进行加捻，捻度设定为1000-1200捻/米，随后采用平纹组织织造得到坯布；
S4、坯布在温度为30-40℃下进行退维，时间为10-30min，经循环清水冲洗2次，将改性聚乙烯醇纤维退除干净，得到毛涤高支单经单纬面料；
所述步骤S1中的羊毛为细度65-75s的美利奴羊毛，涤纶为细度1.5-3D的涤纶长丝；
所述步骤S2中的氨涤弹力包芯纱的细度为30D/30D；
所述改性聚乙烯醇纤维的细度为1-5D；
所述改性聚乙烯醇纤维，包括以下重量份的原料：70-90份聚乙烯醇纤维、10-20份改性剂、5-10份壳聚糖；
所述改性聚乙烯醇纤维，由以下方法制得：先将改性剂与壳聚糖混合形成涂层液，再将涂层液均匀涂覆到聚乙烯醇纤维的表面，涂覆速度为40-50m/min；最后将涂层后的聚乙烯醇纤维置于真空烘箱中，在40-60℃下烘干30-60min，制得改性聚乙烯醇纤维；
所述改性剂由质量比（3-7）:5:（2-6）的苹果酸、柠檬酸、山梨酸复配而得。
2.根据权利要求1所述的毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，其特征在于，还包括后处理工序，具体操作如下：
采用二浸二轧的方式，将整理液涂布到毛涤高支单经单纬面料上，随后经洗呢、烘干、刷剪毛、电压、罐蒸即得。
3.根据权利要求2所述的毛涤高支单经单纬面料的制备方法，其特征在于，所述整理液，包括以下重量份的原料：2-6份抗菌剂、1-4份抗静电剂、1-2份柔顺剂、1-3份防缩剂、0.6-1份分散剂、1-3份渗透剂。
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