CN114929185A - 水包油型乳化组合物 - Google Patents
水包油型乳化组合物 Download PDFInfo
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- CN114929185A CN114929185A CN202180008571.8A CN202180008571A CN114929185A CN 114929185 A CN114929185 A CN 114929185A CN 202180008571 A CN202180008571 A CN 202180008571A CN 114929185 A CN114929185 A CN 114929185A
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- oil
- acid
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- water
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明所要解决的课题是,改善在水相中包含大量的保湿剂和三甲基甘氨酸的水包油型乳化组合物的稳定性。一种水包油型乳化组合物,其特征在于,包含保湿剂/(水+保湿剂)为0.3~0.7的水相、在组合物中为20~50质量%的油相、能够形成水包油型乳化组合物的非离子性表面活性剂、在组合物中为1.5质量%以上的三甲基甘氨酸、和HLB为18以上的非离子系表面活性剂。
Description
相关申请
本发明基于日本专利申请:特愿2020-003184号(2020年1月10日申请)的优先权主张,本申请的全部记载内容通过引用而并入本书中进行记载。
技术领域
本发明涉及水包油型乳化组合物、特别是在水相中包含大量的保湿剂和三甲基甘氨酸的水包油型乳化组合物的稳定性的改良。
背景技术
将皮肤保湿对于特别是在干燥气氛下将皮肤保持健全而言是重要的,在皮肤化妆料中,一直以来以甘油、丁二醇、双丙甘醇为首,混配有山梨糖醇、透明质酸等保水性高的成分。
此外,由在皮肤上形成油性被膜而抑制水分的挥发的、所谓闭塞(occlusion)效果带来的保湿也是有效的,也往往使以保湿作为目的之一的化妆料为水包油型乳化物的形态。
另一方面,上述甘油等多元醇虽然刚应用于皮肤后的保湿力充分,但是具有保湿效果不持久的倾向。在这点上,三甲基甘氨酸具有干燥时的优异的保水性,通过两者的协作作用而可以期待长时间的保湿效果。
现有技术文献
专利文献
专利文献1:日本专利第4827433号
专利文献2:日本专利第4679350号
发明内容
发明所要解决的课题
然而,根据本发明人等的研究,明确了如果将使三甲基甘氨酸在水相中大量混配了保湿剂的体系中共存而成的组合物为水包油型乳化组合物,则乳化稳定性大幅降低。
特别是该倾向在水相中混配了盐型药剂的情况下变得显著。
本发明是鉴于上述现有技术的课题而提出的,其所要解决的课题是改善在水相中包含大量的保湿剂和三甲基甘氨酸的水包油型乳化组合物的稳定性。
用于解决课题的手段
为了解决上述课题,本发明人等进行了研究,结果发现通过与适于所谓水包油型乳化组合物的表面活性剂一起,使用HLB为18以上的表面活性剂,从而在包含大量的保湿剂和三甲基甘氨酸的水相中稳定地分散油相。
即,本发明涉及的水包油型乳化组合物,其特征在于,包含
保湿剂/(水+保湿剂)为0.3~0.7的水相、
在组合物中为20~50质量%的油相、
能够形成水包油型乳化组合物的非离子性表面活性剂、
在组合物中为1.5质量%以上的三甲基甘氨酸、和
HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂。
此外,在上述组合物中,进一步包含水溶性有机酸盐是适合的。
此外,在上述组合物中,HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂在组合物中为0.1~3质量%是适合的。
此外,在上述组合物中,三甲基甘氨酸为5质量%以下是适合的。
发明的效果
本发明如上述那样通过包含HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂,从而能够在混配了大量的保湿剂和三甲基甘氨酸的水相中稳定性好地分散/混配油相。
在本发明中,由保湿剂和三甲基甘氨酸引起的油相分散性的不稳定化特别是在包含水溶性有机酸盐的情况下显著确认到,即使在这样的体系中,上述HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂也有效地起作用。
具体实施方式
以下,对本发明的适合的实施方式进行说明。
[保湿剂]
作为在本发明中适合使用的保湿剂,可举出水溶性的多元醇、氧化烯衍生物、糖、糖醇等。
作为多元醇,可举出例如,聚乙二醇、1,2-丙二醇、1,3-丙二醇、1,2-丁二醇、1,3-丁二醇、1,4-丁二醇、2,3-丁二醇等2元醇、甘油等3元醇。
作为氧化烯衍生物,可举出例如,POE(9)POP(2)二甲基醚、POE(14)POP(7)二甲基醚、POE(10)POP(10)二甲基醚、POE(6)POP(14)二甲基醚、POE(15)POP(5)二甲基醚、POE(25)POP(25)二甲基醚、POE(7)POP(12)二甲基醚、POE(22)POP(40)二甲基醚、POE(35)POP(40)二甲基醚、POE(50)POP(40)二甲基醚、POE(55)POP(30)二甲基醚、POE(30)POP(34)二甲基醚、POE(25)POP(30)二甲基醚、POE(27)POP(14)二甲基醚、POE(55)POP(28)二甲基醚、POE(36)POP(41)二甲基醚、POE(7)POP(12)二甲基醚、POE(17)POP(4)二甲基醚等。
作为其它保湿剂,可举出例如,木糖醇、山梨糖醇、麦芽糖醇、硫酸软骨素、透明质酸、硫酸粘液素(ムコイチン硫酸)、卡洛宁酸(カロニン酸)、缺端胶原、乳酸钠、胆汁酸盐、dl-吡咯烷酮羧酸盐、短链可溶性胶原、双甘油(EO)PO加成物、刺梨提取物、蓍提取物、草木犀提取物等。
在本发明中保湿剂以保湿剂/(水+保湿剂)的质量比计优选为0.3~0.7。如果小于0.3则不易发生由三甲基甘氨酸引起的乳化不稳定化,不易发挥本发明的有效性。如果超过0.7,则通过HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂也不易获得充分的稳定性改善效果。
[油相]
在本发明的组合物中适合混配油分,形成水包油型乳化组合物的分散油相。
作为该油分,没有特别限制,可以使用极性油、非极性油等。
作为极性油,可以适合使用肉豆蔻酸异丙酯、辛酸鲸蜡基酯、肉豆蔻酸辛基十二烷基酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、硬脂酸丁酯、月桂酸己酯、肉豆蔻酸肉豆蔻基酯、油酸癸酯、二甲基辛酸己基癸基酯、乳酸鲸蜡基酯、乳酸肉豆蔻基酯、乙酰化羊毛脂、硬脂酸异鲸蜡基酯、异硬脂酸异鲸蜡基酯、二-2-乙基己酸乙二醇酯、二季戊四醇脂肪酸酯、单异硬脂酸N-烷基二醇酯、二癸酸新戊二醇酯、二-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、三-2-乙基己酸三羟甲基丙烷、三异硬脂酸三羟甲基丙烷、四-2-乙基己酸季戊四醇酯、三-2-乙基己酸甘油酯、三辛酸甘油酯、三异棕榈酸甘油酯、三异硬脂酸三羟甲基丙烷、2-乙基己酸鲸蜡基酯、棕榈酸2-乙基己基酯、三肉豆蔻酸甘油酯、三-2-庚基十一烷酸甘油酯、油酸油基酯、乙酰甘油酯、棕榈酸2-庚基十一烷基酯、己二酸二异丁酯、己二酸二-2-庚基十一烷基酯、月桂酸乙酯、癸二酸二-2-乙基己基酯、肉豆蔻酸2-己基癸基酯、棕榈酸2-己基癸基酯、己二酸2-己基癸基酯、癸二酸二异丙酯、琥珀酸2-乙基己基酯、柠檬酸三乙酯等酯油。
在使用了极性油的情况下,组合物粘度被抑制得较低,可以获得近似于皮肤护理组合物、特别是美容液、乳液的使用感(水润感、没有发粘等)。
作为非极性油,可以适合使用链状聚硅氧烷(例如,二甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、二苯基聚硅氧烷等);环状聚硅氧烷(例如,八甲基环四硅氧烷、十甲基环五硅氧烷、十二甲基环六硅氧烷等)、各种改性聚硅氧烷(氨基改性聚硅氧烷、聚醚改性聚硅氧烷、烷基改性聚硅氧烷、氟改性聚硅氧烷等)、丙烯酸系有机硅类等,并且粘度小于100mPa·s的物质。
其中,可以特别适合使用甲基聚硅氧烷、甲基苯基聚硅氧烷、液体石蜡。
在使用了非极性油的情况下,由于为较高粘度,因此可以获得近似于凝胶状皮肤护理组合物的使用感。
在本发明中,可以混配例如,紫外线吸收剂、油溶性抗氧化剂等功能性油分。
作为紫外线吸收剂,没有特别限定,可以使用在化妆料中通用的物质。可例示例如,苯甲酸衍生物、水杨酸衍生物、肉桂酸衍生物、二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物、β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物、二苯甲酮衍生物、亚苄基樟脑衍生物、苯基苯并咪唑衍生物、三嗪衍生物、苯基苯并***衍生物、邻氨基苯甲酰衍生物(アントラニル誘導体)、咪唑啉衍生物、亚苄基丙二酸酯衍生物、4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物等。以下列举具体例和商品名等,但本发明不限定于它们。
作为苯甲酸衍生物,可例示对-氨基苯甲酸(PABA)乙酯、二羟丙基PABA乙酯、二甲基PABA乙基己酯(例如“エスカロール507”,ISP社)、甘油PABA酯、PEG-25-PABA(例如“ユビナールP25”,BASF社)、二乙基氨基羟基苯甲酰苯甲酸己酯(例如“ユビナールAプラス”)等。
作为水杨酸衍生物,可例示胡莫柳酯(“ユーソレックス(Eusolex)HMS”,ロナ/EMインダストリーズ社)、水杨酸乙基己酯(例如“ネオ·ヘリオパン(NeoHeliopan)OS”,ハーマン·アンド·レイマー社)、双丙甘醇水杨酸酯(例如“ディピサル(Dipsal)”,スケル社)、TEA水杨酸酯(例如“ネオ·ヘリオパンTS”,ハーマン·アンド·レイマー社)等。
作为肉桂酸衍生物,可例示甲氧基肉桂酸辛酯或甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己基酯(例如“パルソールMCX”,ホフマン-ラ·ロシュ社)、甲氧基肉桂酸异丙酯、甲氧基肉桂酸异戊酯(例如“ネオ·ヘリオパンE1000”,ハーマン·アンド·レイマー社)、西诺沙酯、DEA甲氧基肉桂酸酯、甲基肉桂酸二异丙酯、甘油-乙基己酸酯-二甲氧基肉桂酸酯、二-(2-乙基己基)-4’-甲氧基亚苄基丙二酸酯等。
作为二苯甲酰甲烷衍生物,可例示4-叔丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷(例如“パルソール1789”)等。
作为β,β-二苯基丙烯酸酯衍生物,可例示奥克立林(例如“ユビナールN539”,BASF社)等。
作为二苯甲酮衍生物,可例示二苯甲酮-1(例如“ユビナール400”,BASF社)、二苯甲酮-2(例如“ユビナールD50”,BASF社)、二苯甲酮-3或羟苯甲酮(例如“ユビナールM40”,BASF社)、二苯甲酮-4(例如“ユビナールMS40”,BASF社)、二苯甲酮-5、二苯甲酮-6(例如“ヘリソーブ(Helisorb)11”,ノルクアイ社)、二苯甲酮-8(例如“スペクトラ-ソーブ(Spectra-Sorb)UV-24”,アメリカン·シアナミド社)、二苯甲酮-9(例如“ユビナールDS-49”,BASF社)、二苯甲酮-12等。
作为亚苄基樟脑衍生物,可例示3-亚苄基樟脑(例如“メギゾリル(Mexoryl)SD”,シメックス社)、4-甲基亚苄基樟脑、亚苄基樟脑磺酸(例如“メギゾリルSL”,シメックス社)、甲基硫酸樟脑苄烷铵(例如“メギゾリルSO”,シメックス社)、对苯二亚甲基二樟脑磺酸(例如“メギゾリルSX”,シメックス社)、聚丙烯酰胺甲基亚苄基樟脑(例如“メギゾリルSW”,シメックス社)等。
作为苯基苯并咪唑衍生物,可例示苯基苯并咪唑磺酸(例如“ユーソレックス232”,メルク社)、苯基二苯并咪唑四磺酸二钠(例如“ネオ·ヘリオパンAP”,ハーマン·アンド·レイマー社)等。
作为三嗪衍生物,可例示双乙基己基氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三嗪、茴香三嗪(例如“チノソーブ(Tinosorb)S”,チバ·スペシャリティー·ケミカルズ社)、乙基己基三嗪酮(例如“ユビナールT150”,BASF社)、二乙基己基丁酰胺基三嗪酮(例如“ユバソーブ(Uvasorb)HEB”,シグマ3V社)、2,4,6-三(二异丁基-4’-氨基亚苄基丙二酸酯)均三嗪等。
作为苯基苯并***衍生物,可例示甲酚曲唑三硅氧烷(例如“シラトリゾール(Silatrizole)”,ローディア·シミー社)、亚甲基双(苯并***基四甲基丁基苯酚)(例如“チノソーブM”,チバ·スペシャリティー·ケミカルズ社)等。
作为邻氨基苯甲酰衍生物,可例示邻氨基苯甲酸薄荷酯(例如“ネオ·ヘリオパンMA”,ハーマン·アンド·レイマー社)等。
作为咪唑啉衍生物,可例示乙基己基二甲氧基亚苄基二氧代咪唑啉丙酸酯等。
作为亚苄基丙二酸酯衍生物,可例示具有亚苄基丙二酸酯官能团的聚有机硅氧烷(例如,聚硅氧烷-15;“パルソールSLX”,DSMニュートリションジャパン社)等。
作为4,4-二芳基丁二烯衍生物,可例示1,1-二羧基(2,2’-二甲基丙基)-4,4-二苯基丁二烯等。
其中,优选二乙基氨基羟基苯甲酰苯甲酸己酯、4-叔丁基-4’-甲氧基二苯甲酰甲烷、奥克立林、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、聚硅氧烷-15、羟苯甲酮、甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己基酯、双乙基己基氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三嗪、亚甲基双苯并***基四甲基丁基苯酚、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、乙基己基三嗪酮,特别是可以适合使用甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己基酯、双乙基己基氧基苯酚甲氧基苯基三嗪、亚甲基双苯并***基四甲基丁基苯酚、苯基苯并咪唑磺酸、乙基己基三嗪酮。
作为油溶性抗氧化剂,可举出例如,类胡萝卜素、具有抗氧化作用的油溶性维生素等。
作为类胡萝卜素,可举出海葵赤醇(アクチニオエリスロール)、虾青素、红木素、角黄素、辣椒红、辣椒玉红素、β-8’-阿朴-胡萝卜醛(阿朴胡萝卜醛)、β-12’-阿朴-胡萝卜醛、α-胡萝卜素、β-胡萝卜素、“胡萝卜素”(α-和β-胡萝卜素类的混合物)、γ-胡萝卜素、β-隐黄质、海胆酮、叶黄素、番茄红素、紫黄质、玉米黄质等。
作为具有抗氧化作用的油溶性维生素,可以举出维生素E、类视黄醇、抗坏血酸的油溶性衍生物等。
作为维生素E,没有特别限定,可举出例如,选自由生育酚及其衍生物构成的化合物组、以及由生育三烯酚及其衍生物构成的化合物组中的物质。它们可以单独使用,也可以并用多个。此外可以组合使用从由生育酚及其衍生物构成的化合物组和由生育三烯酚及其衍生物构成的化合物组分别选择的物质。
作为类视黄醇,可以举出视黄醇、3-氢视黄醇、视黄醛、3-氢视黄醛、视黄酸、3-脱氢视黄酸、维生素A乙酸酯等维生素A类;α,β,γ-胡萝卜素、β-隐黄质、海胆酮等类胡萝卜素、叶黄素等前维生素A类。
作为抗坏血酸的油溶化衍生物,可举出硬脂酸L-抗坏血酸酯、四异棕榈酸L-抗坏血酸酯、棕榈酸L-抗坏血酸酯、棕榈酸异抗坏血酸酯、四异棕榈酸异抗坏血酸酯、二油酸抗坏血酸酯等维生素C的脂肪酸酯类、二棕榈酸吡哆素、三棕榈酸吡哆素、二月桂酸吡哆素、二辛酸吡哆素等维生素B6的脂肪酸酯类等。
可以适合使用上述油溶性抗氧化剂之中的、生育酚乙酸酯、视黄醇乙酸酯、视黄醇、视黄醇棕榈酸酯。
在本发明涉及的化妆料中,油分在被内包于水包油型乳化粒子的状态下分散在水性介质中。该水包油型乳化粒子可以为微乳(粒径为100纳米以下,热力学稳定的乳液)。
此外,本发明中的油分的混配量相对于化妆料总量为20~50质量%,更优选为20-40质量%。
[非离子性表面活性剂]
在本发明中,作为能够调制水包油型乳化组合物的非离子性表面活性剂,可以单独使用,或也可以以多个亲油性非离子性表面活性剂、亲水性表面活性剂的混合物的形式使用。
在使用混合物的情况下,各非离子性表面活性剂的HLB优选为2~17.5左右,其加权平均HLB优选为2~12左右。
作为亲油性非离子性表面活性剂,可举出例如,失水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯类(例如,失水山梨糖醇单油酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单异硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单棕榈酸酯、失水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯、失水山梨糖醇倍半油酸酯、失水山梨糖醇三油酸酯、五-2-乙基己酸二甘油失水山梨糖醇酯、四-2-乙基己酸二甘油失水山梨糖醇酯等);甘油聚甘油脂肪酸类(例如,单棉籽油脂肪酸甘油酯、单芥酸甘油酯、倍半油酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油酯、α,α’-油酸焦谷氨酸甘油酯、单硬脂酸甘油苹果酸酯等);丙二醇脂肪酸酯类(例如,单硬脂酸丙二醇酯等);氢化蓖麻油衍生物;甘油烷基醚等。
作为亲水性非离子性表面活性剂,可举出例如,POE-失水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯类(例如,POE-失水山梨糖醇单油酸酯、POE-失水山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯、POE-失水山梨糖醇单油酸酯、POE-失水山梨糖醇四油酸酯等);POE山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯类(例如,POE-山梨糖醇单月桂酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇单油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇五油酸酯、POE-山梨糖醇单硬脂酸酯等);POE-甘油脂肪酸酯类(例如,POE-甘油单硬脂酸酯、POE-甘油单异硬脂酸酯、POE-甘油三异硬脂酸酯等POE-单油酸酯等);POE-脂肪酸酯类(例如,POE-二硬脂酸酯、POE-单二油酸酯、二硬脂酸乙二醇酯等);POE-烷基醚类(例如,POE-月桂基醚、POE-油基醚、POE-硬脂基醚、POE-山基醚、POE-2-辛基十二烷基醚、POE-胆甾烷醇醚等);プルロニック(注册商标)型类(例如,プルロニック(注册商标)等);POE/POP-烷基醚类(例如,POE/POP-鲸蜡基醚、POE/POP-2-癸基十四烷基醚、POE/POP-单丁基醚、POE/POP-氢化羊毛脂、POE/POP-甘油醚等);四POE/四POP-乙二胺缩合物类(例如,テトロニック等);POE-蓖麻油氢化蓖麻油衍生物(例如,POE-蓖麻油、POE-氢化蓖麻油、POE-氢化蓖麻油单异硬脂酸酯、POE-氢化蓖麻油三异硬脂酸酯、POE-氢化蓖麻油单焦谷氨酸单异硬脂酸二酯、POE-氢化蓖麻油马来酸等);POE-蜂蜡/羊毛脂衍生物(例如,POE-山梨糖醇蜂蜡等);链烷醇酰胺(例如,椰油脂肪酸二乙醇酰胺、月桂酸单乙醇酰胺、脂肪酸异丙醇酰胺等);POE-丙二醇脂肪酸酯;POE-烷基胺;POE-脂肪酸酰胺;蔗糖脂肪酸酯;烷基乙氧基二甲基氧化胺;三油基磷酸等。
[三甲基甘氨酸]
适合用于本发明的三甲基甘氨酸具有N,N,N-三甲基甘氨酸的结构,特别是在干燥环境下也显示强的吸湿性。
在本发明中,为了使三甲基甘氨酸的保湿性充分地发挥,优选为在组合物中为1.5质量%以上的混配。
[HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂]
作为HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂,优选为POE加成单烷基醚,适合使用例如硬脂酸PEG-100(HLB:约19)等。
[水溶性有机酸盐]
作为在本发明中适合使用的水溶性有机酸盐,可例示凝血酸甲基酰胺盐酸盐、4-甲氧基水杨酸钾盐等。
[其它成分]
作为天然的水溶性高分子,可举出例如,植物系高分子(例如,***胶、黄蓍胶、半乳聚糖、刺槐豆胶、瓜尔胶、罗望子胶、角豆胶、刺梧桐树胶、角叉菜聚糖、果胶、榅桲籽(榅桲)、海藻胶(褐藻提取物)、淀粉(米、玉米、马铃薯、小麦)、甘草酸);微生物系高分子(例如,黄原酸胶、葡聚糖、琥珀酰葡聚糖、普鲁兰糖等);动物系高分子(例如,胶原、酪蛋白、白蛋白、明胶等)等。
作为半合成的水溶性高分子,可举出例如,淀粉系高分子(例如,羧基甲基淀粉、甲基羟基丙基淀粉等);纤维素系高分子(甲基纤维素、乙基纤维素、甲基羟基丙基纤维素、羟基乙基纤维素、纤维素硫酸钠、羟基丙基纤维素、羧基甲基纤维素、羧基甲基纤维素钠、结晶纤维素、纤维素末等);藻酸系高分子(例如,藻酸钠、藻酸丙二醇酯等)等。
作为合成的水溶性高分子,可举出例如,乙烯基系高分子(例如,聚乙烯醇、聚乙烯基甲基醚、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮、羧基乙烯基聚合物等);聚氧乙烯系高分子(例如,聚乙二醇20,000、40,000、60,000等);丙烯酸系高分子(例如,聚丙烯酸钠、聚丙烯酸乙酯、聚丙烯酰胺等);聚乙烯亚胺;阳离子聚合物、和它们的共聚物、交联聚合物((丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP)共聚物、(二甲基丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸Na)交联聚合物等)等。
作为除上述水溶性高分子以外的增稠剂,可举出例如,糊精、果胶酸钠、花生酸钠、二烷基二甲基铵硫酸纤维素、硅酸铝镁、膨润土、锂蒙脱石、硅酸A1Mg(ビーガム)、合成锂皂石、硅酸酐等。
作为单糖,可举出例如,三碳糖(例如,D-甘油醛、二羟基丙酮等);四碳糖(例如,D-赤藓糖、D-赤藓酮糖、D-苏糖等);五碳糖(例如,L-***糖、D-木糖、L-来苏糖、D-***糖、D-核糖、D-核酮糖、D-木酮糖、L-木酮糖等);六碳糖(例如,D-葡萄糖、D-塔罗糖、D-阿洛酮糖、D-半乳糖、D-果糖、L-半乳糖、L-甘露糖、D-塔格糖等);七碳糖(例如,庚醛糖、庚酮糖等);八碳糖(例如,辛酮糖等);脱氧糖(例如,2-脱氧-D-核糖、6-脱氧-L-半乳糖、6-脱氧-L-甘露糖等);氨基糖(例如,D-葡糖胺、D-半乳糖胺、唾液酸、氨基糖醛酸、胞壁酸等);糖醛酸(例如,D-葡糖醛酸、D-甘露糖醛酸、L-古洛糖醛酸、D-半乳糖醛酸、L-艾杜糖醛酸等)等。
作为寡糖,可举出例如,蔗糖、龙胆三糖、伞形糖、乳糖、车前三糖、异剪秋罗糖类、α,α-海藻糖、棉子糖、剪秋罗糖类、石耳素、水苏糖毛蕊花糖类等。
作为氨基酸,可举出例如,中性氨基酸(例如,苏氨酸、半胱氨酸等);碱性氨基酸(例如,羟基赖氨酸等)等。此外,作为氨基酸衍生物,可举出例如,酰基肌氨酸钠(月桂酰肌氨酸钠)、酰基谷氨酸盐、酰基β-丙氨酸钠、谷胱甘肽、吡咯烷酮羧酸等。
作为有机胺,可举出例如,单乙醇胺、二乙醇胺、三乙醇胺、吗啉、三异丙醇胺、2-氨基-2-甲基-1,3-丙烷二醇、2-氨基-2-甲基-1-丙醇等。
作为多价螯合剂,可举出例如,1-羟基乙烷-1,1-二膦酸、1-羟基乙烷-1,1-二膦酸四钠盐、乙二胺四乙酸二钠、乙二胺四乙酸三钠、乙二胺四乙酸四钠、柠檬酸钠、多磷酸钠、偏磷酸钠、葡糖酸、磷酸、柠檬酸、抗坏血酸、琥珀酸、乙二胺四乙酸、乙二胺羟基乙基三乙酸3钠等。
作为抗氧化助剂,可举出例如,磷酸、柠檬酸、抗坏血酸、马来酸、丙二酸、琥珀酸、富马酸、脑磷脂、六偏磷酸酯、肌醇六磷酸、乙二胺四乙酸等。
作为其它能够混配的成分,可举出例如,防腐剂(对羟基苯甲酸乙酯、对羟基苯甲酸丁酯等);美白剂(例如,胎盘提取物、虎耳草提取物、熊果苷等);血液循环促进剂(烟酸、烟酸苄酯、生育酚烟酸酯、烟酸β-丁氧基酯、米诺地尔或其相关体、γ-谷维素、烷氧基羰基吡啶N-氧化物、卡普氯铵、和乙酰胆碱或其衍生物等);各种提取物(例如,姜、黄柏、黄连、紫草、桦树、枇杷、胡萝卜、芦荟、锦葵、鸢尾、葡萄、丝瓜、百合、藏红花、川芎、生姜、小连翘、红芒柄花、大蒜、辣椒、陈皮、当归、牡丹、海藻等)、活化剂(例如,泛醇乙基醚、烟酰胺、生物素、泛酸、蜂王浆、胆固醇衍生物等);抗脂溢剂(例如,吡哆素类、二甲噻蒽等)等。
本发明的化妆料能够广泛应用于被应用于外皮的化妆品、药品、和准药品。其剂型为水包油型乳化系(乳液、霜、化妆水等),能够将一般的水包油型乳化组合物的制造方法适用于具体的混配成分的内容,以所希望的形态来制造本发明的化妆料。
以下,对本发明的适合的实施例进行说明。
首先,在具体的实施例的说明之前,对其评价方法进行说明。
[硬度]
在25℃下,用レオテック社制流变仪(压敏轴8φ,针入速度2cm/分钟,针入度3mm)测定了调制出的水包油型霜化妆料的硬度。
[乳化粒径]
用***工业显微镜BX51(オリンパス株式会社制)观察调制出的水包油型霜化妆料,通过目视测定了乳化粒径。
[乳化稳定性]
将制剂填充于玻璃瓶,判定在50℃下静置了4周或在60℃下静置了15天时的外观(乳状液分层的有无)。
A:未确认到乳状液分层、分离。
C:确认到乳状液分层、分离。
[熔点]
通过差示扫描量热计,进行了α-凝胶的熔点的测定。
[粘度]
将调制出的试样在50℃下静置了3周后,立即通过BL型粘度计(转子No.3,12转)测定了粘度(mPa·s)。
[使用性(涂抹后的湿润感的持续)]
专业评审员10名将试样涂抹于面部,对涂抹后的湿润感的持续进行了评价。
A:评审员10名中8名以上回答在对肌肤涂抹后湿润感长时间持续。
B:评审员10名中7名以下回答对肌肤涂抹后湿润感长时间持续。
[制造方法]
混合包含保湿剂/三甲基甘氨酸的水相。将加热混合了的油相缓慢添加到上述水相中,施加高剪切力,从而整理乳化粒子,一边搅拌一边冷却,制造出作为水包油型乳化化妆料的霜。
首先,本发明人等对大量的保湿剂、三甲基甘氨酸对水包油型乳化组合物的影响进行了研究。
将结果示于以下表1中。
[表1]
如表1试验例1-1所示那样,在水相中混配了大量的保湿剂的情况下,如果不添加三甲基甘氨酸,则对乳化性、乳化稳定性没有特别影响。
然而,如试验例1-2、1-3所示那样如果混配三甲基甘氨酸,则乳化稳定性显著降低。
关于该现象,本发明人等进一步进行了研究。
将结果示于表2中。
[表2]
如表2试验例2-1所示那样,如果使表面活性剂的加权平均HLB为亲水性侧,则乳化稳定性稍微改善,但硬度的降低显著。这可以认为是通过由组合物中的高级醇(山醇和硬脂醇)和非离子性表面活性剂形成的、所谓α-凝胶而产生硬度,如果为亲水性侧则对该α-凝胶形成产生障碍从而硬度降低。
另一方面,如果使表面活性剂的加权平均HLB为亲油性侧(试验例2-2、2-3),则虽然组合物硬度都令人满意,但是乳化稳定性显著降低了。
与此相对,如试验例2-4所示那样,如果使用HLB为18以上的硬脂酸PEG-100(HLB约19),则获得了硬度和乳化稳定性都令人满意的水包油型乳化组合物。
将对这点进一步详细地进行了研究的结果示于以下表3中。
[表3]
首先,在未混配三甲基甘氨酸的状态下即使使用能够获得良好的组合物硬度、乳化稳定性的表面活性剂,如果混配三甲基甘氨酸则乳化稳定性也降低(试验例3-1)。
三甲基甘氨酸也作为保湿剂起作用,但即使置换成作为相同保湿剂的赤藓醇(试验例3-2)、或置换成作为水溶性有机酸盐的4-甲氧基水杨酸钾盐(试验例3-3),也特别是对乳化稳定性未确认到影响。
这样,可以认为本发明人等发现了的、三甲基甘氨酸和高浓度的保湿剂引起的乳化组合物的不稳定化为极其特殊的作用。
关于其详细,目前不清楚的点也多,但可以认为通过三甲基甘氨酸的保水作用而表面活性剂的亲水基的水合状态受到影响,因此如硬脂酸PEG-100那样,在分子结构上亲水基极其大的HLB为18以上的表面活性剂被牢固地固定于水相,从而乳化稳定性提高。
需要说明的是,通常,HLB为18以上的表面活性剂与其说作为乳化剂不如说作为增溶剂起作用,对于水包油型乳化组合物的形成不一定有效,此外虽然对于硬脂酸PEG-40(HLB为17.5前后)发生硬度降低(上述试验例2-1),但是对于硬脂酸PEG-100,硬度降低被抑制,同时乳化稳定性提高也必须被关注。
进一步本发明人等对三甲基甘氨酸、硬脂酸PEG-100的混配量进行了研究。将结果示于表4中。
[表4]
由表4明确了,通过硬脂酸PEG-100的共存而乳化状态、稳定性都提高,进一步详细的研究的结果是,硬脂酸PEG-100的混配量为0.1~5质量%,此外三甲基甘氨酸的混配量直至5质量%左右为止发挥效果。
如果一并考虑三甲基甘氨酸的作为保湿剂的效果,则优选在组合物中为1.5质量%以上,如果考虑稳定性则优选为5质量%以下。
本发明人等对水与保湿剂的混配比率、其它表面活性剂也进行了研究。
将结果示于表5中。
[表5]
由表5明确可知,如果保湿剂/(水+保湿剂)为0.3以下(试验例5-1)则即使加入三甲基甘氨酸也对乳化稳定性没有影响。
此外,表面活性剂即使为在上述表4中研究了的硬脂酸PEG100以外的表面活性剂(异硬脂酸PEG-60甘油酯),只要HLB为18以上,就获得乳化稳定性(试验例5-2)。如试验例5-3那样硬脂酸PEG100的含量即使为0.5质量%,乳化稳定性也良好。
Claims (4)
1.一种水包油型乳化组合物,其特征在于,包含
保湿剂/(水+保湿剂)为0.3~0.7的水相、
在组合物中为20~50质量%的油相、
能够形成水包油型乳化组合物的非离子性表面活性剂、
在组合物中为1.5质量%以上的三甲基甘氨酸、和
HLB为18以上的非离子系表面活性剂。
2.一种水包油型乳化组合物,其特征在于,在权利要求1所述的化妆料中,进一步包含水溶性有机酸盐。
3.一种水包油型乳化组合物,其特征在于,在权利要求1或2所述的化妆料中,HLB为18以上的非离子性表面活性剂在组合物中为0.1~3质量%。
4.一种水包油型乳化组合物,其特征在于,在权利要求1~3中任一项所述的化妆料中,三甲基甘氨酸为5质量%以下。
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