CN114617778A - Natural liquid crystal structure composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Natural liquid crystal structure composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN114617778A
CN114617778A CN202111104611.7A CN202111104611A CN114617778A CN 114617778 A CN114617778 A CN 114617778A CN 202111104611 A CN202111104611 A CN 202111104611A CN 114617778 A CN114617778 A CN 114617778A
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liquid crystal
phase
crystal structure
natural liquid
emulsifier
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CN114617778B (en
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杨一帆
莫美玲
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Zhongshan Zhongyan Cosmetic Co ltd
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Zhongshan Zhongyan Cosmetic Co ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0295Liquid crystals
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
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  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Crystallography & Structural Chemistry (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

The invention relates to the field of A61K8/9789, in particular to a natural liquid crystal structure composition and a preparation method and application thereof, wherein the natural liquid crystal structure composition comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of phase A, 8-15 parts of phase B and 70-100 parts of phase C; the preparation raw materials of the phase A at least comprise: a first emulsifier, a skin care agent, a second emulsifier; the first emulsifier is a polyglycerol derivative, and the average polymerization degree of the polyglycerol derivative is 2-10; the preparation raw materials of the B phase at least comprise: a moistening agent; the preparation raw materials of the phase C at least comprise: humectant, bacteriostatic agent, pH regulator and water. The composition has a natural liquid crystal structure, is stable in liquid crystal structure, is not interfered by polar or non-polar surfactants, temperature and liquid level changes, and has good high temperature resistance and low temperature resistance.

Description

Natural liquid crystal structure composition and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the field of A61K8/9789, in particular to a natural liquid crystal structure composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
The liquid crystal structure has good fluidity and film forming property, so that the liquid crystal structure is widely used in an emulsification system of cosmetics and has various effects of good moisturizing performance, enhancement of active ingredient permeation, repair of skin barrier layers and the like. However, since the formation of the liquid crystal structure is influenced by various factors, such as the polarity of the oil phase of the emulsion, the high molecular weight polysaccharide in the water phase, the polymer, and the stability at high and low temperatures, it is a very difficult task to formulate a stable liquid crystal system, and the influence of various factors needs to be considered at the same time.
CN110974742A discloses a moisturizing and repairing hand cream with a liquid crystal structure and a preparation method thereof, which has moisturizing and repairing effects, but has poor skin permeability, and is easy to rub mud on the surface and not to absorb the mud.
CN111297699A discloses a moisturizing body lotion with a good liquid crystal structure and a preparation method thereof, wherein polymers such as polyglyceryl ether are adopted to endow the moisturizing property and the stability of the composition, however, the introduction of the polymers brings instability of the liquid crystal structure.
Aiming at the problems in the prior art, the composition disclosed by the invention can form a stable liquid crystal structure under the conditions of different types of grease, polymers and polysaccharides and even high electrolyte content, so that the development difficulty of a liquid crystal emulsification system is greatly simplified.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention provides a natural liquid crystal structure composition, which is prepared from the following raw materials in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of phase A, 8-15 parts of phase B and 70-100 parts of phase C;
the preparation raw materials of the phase A at least comprise: a first emulsifier, a skin care agent, a second emulsifier; the first emulsifier is a polyglycerol derivative, and the average polymerization degree of the polyglycerol derivative is 2-10;
the preparation raw materials of the phase B at least comprise: a humectant;
the preparation raw materials of the phase C at least comprise: humectant, bacteriostatic agent, pH regulator and water.
As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the first emulsifier to the skin care agent to the second emulsifier is (1-2): (2-6): (1.8-3).
As a preferred embodiment, the saponification value of the polyglycerol derivative is 100-170 mgKOH/g.
The saponification number refers to the number of milligrams of potassium hydroxide consumed by the alkaline hydrolysis of 1g of oil and fat, and indirectly represents the relative molecular mass of the polyglycerol derivative. The applicant found that when the saponification value of the polyglycerol derivative is 100-170mgKOH/g, the prepared composition has good refreshing and moisturizing effects, is not greasy, and has stable liquid crystal structure, presumably because the appropriate relative molecular mass can achieve the effects of partial skin infiltration and partial skin surface remaining as a film.
Preferably, the polyglycerol derivative includes at least one of a polyglycerol-2 derivative, a polyglycerol-3 derivative, a polyglycerol-6 derivative and a polyglycerol-10 derivative.
Preferably, the polyglycerin derivative includes at least one of polyglycerin-2 diisostearate, polyglycerin-2 triisostearate, polyglycerin-2 oleate, polyglycerin-2 dipolyhydroxystearate, polyglycerin-3 diisostearate, polyglycerin-3 methylglucdistearate, polyglycerin-6 didecanoate, polyglycerin-6 octanoate, polyglycerin-6 laurate, polyglycerin-6 octastearate, polyglycerin-10 pentastearate, polyglycerin-10 myristostearate, polyglycerin-10 oleate, and polyglycerin-10 laurate.
In order to achieve better water-oil balance effect, it is further preferable that the polyglycerol derivative is polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, the saponification value is 140-170mgKOH/g, the HLB value is 6-8, and the polyglycerol derivative is purchased from Wuhanxin Jiali Biotechnology Co., Ltd.
In a preferred embodiment, the skin-care agent has 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
Preferably, the skin care agent comprises at least one of hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol, hydrogenated castor oil, stearyl stearate, stearyl behenate and behenyl behenate.
Further preferably, the skin care agent is hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol.
The applicant has found that the stability of the liquid crystal structure of the composition is greatly improved when hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol is added, and the original liquid crystal structure can be stably kept when the hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol is faced with emulsifiers with different polarities and non-polarities. Hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol is a natural fatty alcohol with the carbon number between 14 and 22, and the applicant speculates that the compounding of carbon chains with different lengths and the winding of the carbon chains in three-dimensional space greatly enhance the three-dimensional stability of a liquid crystal structure, and the hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol can also show certain shrinkage and expansion stress when facing oils with different polarities so as to strengthen the stability of the structure of the hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol.
As a preferred embodiment, the relative molecular mass of the second emulsifier is 300-900.
Preferably, the second emulsifier comprises a glyceride derivative.
Preferably, the glyceride derivative includes at least one of glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl trioleate and glyceryl tristearate.
In order to enhance the stability of the liquid crystal structure at different liquid levels, it is further preferred that the glyceride derivative is glycerol monooleate.
As a preferred embodiment, the second emulsifier further comprises sodium stearoyl glutamate and/or sodium stearoyl lactylate.
The applicant finds that when anionic emulsifiers with different gradients and relative molecular masses are matched with each other, the stability of the liquid crystal structure at different interfaces and the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance at different temperatures can be remarkably improved, and the application range of the composition is greatly expanded.
The present invention is not particularly limited to the humectant, which may be selected from at least one of polydimethylsiloxane, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and isohexadecane, but is not limited thereto.
As a preferred embodiment, the humectant comprises at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, carbomer, trehalose, D-panthenol, squalane.
In a preferred embodiment, the bacteriostatic agent comprises at least one of magnesium sulfate, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, paraben, and sorbic acid.
The present invention is not particularly limited to the pH adjuster, which may be at least one selected from the group consisting of disodium EDTA, tetrasodium EDTA, citric acid, and sodium citrate.
As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the humectant, the bacteriostatic agent, the pH regulator and the water is (7-9): (0.8-1.3): (0.05-0.2): (70-90).
The second aspect of the present invention provides a method for preparing a natural liquid crystal structure composition, comprising the steps of: (1) adding the preparation raw materials of the phase A and the phase B into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to prepare a premix; (2) adding water into an emulsifying pot, adding the premixed humectant into the emulsifying pot, heating, adding the premix, starting homogenizing, cooling, adding the bacteriostatic agent and the pH regulator, stirring uniformly, and discharging.
The third aspect of the invention provides an application of the natural liquid crystal structure composition in skin care emulsion, skin care essence, skin care water, skin care mask liquid, skin care cream, skin care eye cream, hand cream, skin care body lotion, skin care spray, sun cream, sun spray and skin care sleeping mask.
Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1. the composition has a natural liquid crystal structure, is stable in liquid crystal structure, is not interfered by polar or non-polar surfactants, temperature and liquid level change, and has good high temperature resistance and low temperature resistance.
2. The composition disclosed by the invention is good in moisturizing effect, high in water replenishing rate, better in long-acting moisturizing effect and fresh and non-greasy in use feeling through human body tests.
3. The composition has wide application area and can be widely added into various skin care products.
Detailed Description
Example 1
In a first aspect of this embodiment, a natural liquid crystal structure composition is provided, which comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 7.7 parts of phase A, 10 parts of phase B and 82.3 parts of phase C;
the preparation raw materials of the phase A comprise: a first emulsifier, a skin care agent, a second emulsifier;
the preparation raw materials of the phase B comprise: a humectant;
the preparation raw materials of the phase C comprise: humectant, bacteriostatic agent, pH regulator and water.
The first emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, the saponification value is 140-170mgKOH/g, the HLB value is 6-8, and the emulsifier is purchased from Wuhanxin Jiali biological science and technology Co.
The skin care agent is hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol, purchased from Beijing lingbao technologies, Inc.
The second emulsifier glyceryl monooleate and sodium stearyl glutamate are compounded according to the weight ratio of 1: 0.1.
The weight ratio of the first emulsifier to the skin care agent to the second emulsifier is 1.5: 4: 2.2
The moistening agent is compounded by polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic capric triglyceride in a weight ratio of 1: 4.
The humectant is compounded by xanthan gum, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate in a weight ratio of 0.5:8: 0.1.
The bacteriostatic agent is prepared by compounding magnesium sulfate, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin according to the weight ratio of 3:8: 1.
The pH regulator is EDTA disodium.
The weight ratio of the humectant to the bacteriostatic agent to the pH regulator to the water is 8.6: 1.2: 0.1: 72.4.
in a second aspect, this embodiment provides a method for preparing a natural liquid crystal composition, comprising the steps of: (1) adding the preparation raw materials of the phase A and the phase B into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃ to prepare a premix; (2) adding water into an emulsifying pot, adding the premixed humectant into the emulsifying pot, heating to 75 ℃, adding the premix, starting homogenizing at 3000rpm for 10 minutes, cooling to 40 ℃, adding the bacteriostatic agent and the pH regulator, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides a natural liquid crystal structure composition for use in a hand cream.
Example 2
In a first aspect of this embodiment, a natural liquid crystal structure composition is provided, which comprises the following raw materials in parts by weight: 7.5 parts of phase A, 10 parts of phase B and 82.5 parts of phase C;
the preparation raw materials of the phase A comprise: a first emulsifier, a skin care agent, a second emulsifier;
the preparation raw materials of the B phase comprise: a humectant;
the preparation raw materials of the C phase comprise: humectant, bacteriostatic agent, pH regulator and water.
The first emulsifier is polyglycerol-10 pentastearate, the saponification value is 140-170mgKOH/g, the HLB value is 6-8, and the emulsifier is purchased from Wuhanxin Jiali biological science and technology Co.
The skin care agent is hydrogenated rapeseed oleyl alcohol.
The second emulsifier is composed of glyceryl monooleate and sodium stearoyl lactylate in a weight ratio of 4: 1.
The weight ratio of the first emulsifier to the skin care agent to the second emulsifier is 1: 4: 2.5.
the moistening agent is compounded by polydimethylsiloxane and caprylic capric triglyceride in a weight ratio of 1: 4.
The polydimethylsiloxane was purchased from dow chemistry.
The humectant is compounded by xanthan gum, glycerin and sodium hyaluronate in a weight ratio of 0.5:8: 0.1.
The bacteriostatic agent is prepared by compounding magnesium sulfate, phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin according to the weight ratio of 3:8: 1.
The pH regulator is EDTA disodium.
The weight ratio of the humectant to the bacteriostatic agent to the pH regulator to the water is 8.6: 1.2: 0.1: 72.4.
in a second aspect, this embodiment provides a method for preparing a natural liquid crystal composition, comprising the steps of: (1) adding the preparation raw materials of the phase A and the phase B into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to 75 ℃ to prepare a premix; (2) adding water into an emulsifying pot, adding the premixed humectant into the emulsifying pot, heating to 75 ℃, adding the premix, starting homogenizing at 3000rpm for 10 minutes, cooling to 40 ℃, adding the bacteriostatic agent and the pH regulator, uniformly stirring, and discharging.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides a natural liquid crystal structure composition for use in a hand cream.
Comparative example 1
This comparative example provides, in a first aspect, a natural liquid crystal structured composition, as in example 1, except that the skin care agent is cetearyl alcohol.
In a second aspect, this comparative example provides a process for preparing a natural liquid crystal structured composition, the specific embodiment of which is the same as in example 1.
In a third aspect of this comparative example, there is provided the use of a natural liquid crystal structured composition in a hand cream.
Comparative example 2
This comparative example provides in a first aspect a natural liquid crystalline structured composition, according to the same embodiment as example 1, except that the second emulsifier is glycerol monooleate.
The second aspect of this comparative example provides a method for preparing a natural liquid crystal structure composition, the detailed embodiment is the same as example 1.
In a third aspect of the present comparative example, there is provided the use of a natural liquid crystal structure composition in a hand cream.
Performance testing
The stability test method comprises the following steps: the same mass of the compositions of the examples and comparative examples were placed in an environment of-18 deg.C, 5 deg.C, 48 deg.C for 30 days and 8 cycles of 24 hours each at-8 deg.C, -40 deg.C, respectively, and the appearance of the compositions was observed.
Figure BDA0003271628200000061
Moisture retention test method:
1. 30 subjects were selected and randomized into two groups, one group of 15 tested for the example 1 formulation and one group of 15 tested for the comparative example 1 formulation.
2. Before the test, the testee needs to clean the inner side of the front arm with water, wipe the inner side clean with dry facial tissue, sit still for 30min in a room with the relative humidity of 50% at 25 ℃, cannot drink water and keep relaxed.
3. After cleaning and drying, the inner side of the front arm is divided into 3 test areas on average, and the moisture basic value W1 of the skin of the three test areas is recorded by a skin tester respectively. The skin tester is purchased from Beijing Hongmai commercial LLC of Derma-Expert MC 760.
4. The composition of the example and the comparative example, namely the size of soybean, is uniformly and clockwise painted on three test areas in a circle mode, the moisture value W2 of the skin of the three test areas is recorded at 30 minutes, 2 hours and 4 hours after the painting, and the water supplement rate is (W2-W1)/W1 x 100%.
Figure BDA0003271628200000062

Claims (10)

1. The natural liquid crystal structure composition is characterized by comprising the following preparation raw materials in parts by weight: 5-10 parts of phase A, 8-15 parts of phase B and 70-100 parts of phase C;
the preparation raw materials of the phase A at least comprise: a first emulsifier, a skin care agent, a second emulsifier; the first emulsifier is a polyglycerol derivative, and the average polymerization degree of the polyglycerol derivative is 2-10;
the preparation raw materials of the B phase at least comprise: a moistening agent;
the preparation raw materials of the phase C at least comprise: humectant, bacteriostatic agent, pH regulator and water.
2. The natural liquid crystal composition as defined in claim 1, wherein the saponification value of the polyglycerol derivative is 100-170 mgKOH/g.
3. The natural liquid crystal structure composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, wherein the skin-care agent has 14 to 22 carbon atoms.
4. The natural liquid crystal structure composition as described in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the relative molecular mass of the second emulsifier is 300-900.
5. A natural liquid crystal structure composition according to any of claims 1 to 4, wherein the second emulsifier comprises a glyceride derivative.
6. The natural liquid crystal structured composition of claim 5, wherein said glyceride derivative comprises at least one of glyceryl monooleate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl trioleate, and glyceryl tristearate.
7. The natural liquid crystal structured composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the humectant comprises at least one of glycerin, propylene glycol, sodium hyaluronate, xanthan gum, carbomer, trehalose, D-panthenol, and squalane.
8. The natural liquid crystal structure composition of any one of claims 1-7, wherein the bacteriostatic agent comprises at least one of magnesium sulfate, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol, hexylene glycol, paraben, sorbic acid.
9. A method for preparing a natural liquid crystal structuring composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising the steps of: (1) adding the preparation raw materials of the phase A and the phase B into an oil phase pot, stirring and heating to prepare a premix; (2) adding water into an emulsifying pot, adding the premixed humectant into the emulsifying pot, heating, adding the premix, starting homogenizing, cooling, adding the bacteriostatic agent and the pH regulator, stirring uniformly, and discharging.
10. Use of a natural liquid crystal structure composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 in skin care lotions, skin care essences, skin lotions, skin mask liquids, skin care creams, skin care eye creams, hand creams, skin care body lotions, skin care sprays, sun creams, sun sprays, skin care sleep masks.
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CN115887304A (en) * 2022-12-20 2023-04-04 科乐美(广州)生物科技有限公司 Emulsifier composition, skin cream containing emulsifier composition and preparation method of skin cream
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