CN114533613A - Whitening cosmetic composition and preparation method and application thereof - Google Patents

Whitening cosmetic composition and preparation method and application thereof Download PDF

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CN114533613A
CN114533613A CN202210168774.XA CN202210168774A CN114533613A CN 114533613 A CN114533613 A CN 114533613A CN 202210168774 A CN202210168774 A CN 202210168774A CN 114533613 A CN114533613 A CN 114533613A
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phase
extract
cosmetic composition
whitening cosmetic
skin
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吴艳清
巫小武
黄艺伟
蓝萍
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Xiamen Golden Biotechnology Co ltd
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Xiamen Golden Biotechnology Co ltd
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    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/602Glycosides, e.g. rutin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
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    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
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    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
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    • A61K8/735Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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    • A61K8/81Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/817Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by a single or double bond to nitrogen or by a heterocyclic ring containing nitrogen; Compositions or derivatives of such polymers, e.g. vinylimidazol, vinylcaprolactame, allylamines (Polyquaternium 6)
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    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
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Abstract

The invention relates to a whitening cosmetic composition and a preparation method thereof, wherein the whitening cosmetic composition is prepared from three systems including an A phase, a B phase and a C phase according to mass percentage, wherein the A phase, the B phase and the C phase are as follows: the phase A comprises the following components: 0.05-0.2% of allantoin; 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate; 1-5% of butanediol; 0.01-0.05% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.01-0.05% of citric acid; 1-5% of nicotinamide; 0.5-5% of raspberry ketone glucoside; 1-5% of tremella polysaccharide; 1-5% of saccharide isomerate; 1-5% of beta-glucan; 0.1-2% of astaxanthin; 1-5% of plant extract. The whitening cosmetic composition provided by the invention can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, remove free radicals, prevent the formation of melanin, has a whitening effect on formed UV erythema and UV pigmentation, and has a good market prospect.

Description

Whitening cosmetic composition and preparation method and application thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a whitening cosmetic composition and a preparation method and application thereof.
Background
Whitening is a topic which is unchanged from ancient times, people in Egyptian have used whitening cosmetics as early as 3500 years ago, and the Tang Dynasty Sun Simiao invention in China has a special whitening formula. The whitening effect has become one of the main effects of Chinese cosmetics, and the importance of having fair, clean and transparent skin for new-generation consumers is seen.
The difference in skin color is not related to the number of melanocytes, but is determined by the melanogenesis ability of melanocytes. The amount, type, and distribution of melanin plays a decisive role in the color of the skin. Melanocytes, which are one of the important constituent cells of the skin, exist in the basal layer of the epidermis and form skin color by synthesizing melanin. Melanin can absorb and dissipate 99.9% of ultraviolet ray, and protect body from damage of ultraviolet ray. Ultraviolet rays can cause skin to generate ROS active oxygen free radicals, induce melanocytes to generate more melanin to resist ultraviolet rays so as to protect the body, and finally cause the skin to turn black, thus affecting the beauty of the skin.
Patent application CN113425651A discloses a cosmetic composition with whitening effect, which comprises the following components by mass percent: nicotinamide: 0.1-5%; tocopherol/tocopherols: 0.002-0.5%; sucrose dilaurate, pea extract: 0.002-5%; cosmetic adjuvant matrix: 90 to 99.9 percent. The scheme utilizes the synergistic effect of the nicotinamide, the tocopherol/tocopherol, the sucrose dilaurate and the pea extract, and has the effects of inhibiting the synthesis of melanin and melanosome, inhibiting the migration of the melanosome, resisting the damage of free radicals to skin by oxidation, resisting the ultraviolet injury, comprehensively protecting light, strengthening skin barrier and the like, so that the skin can be efficiently, uniformly and brightly lightened, and the skin is refined and perfect. However, this protocol has a poor effect on already formed melanin, e.g. no significant effect on erythema generated after UV exposure.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to overcome the defects of the prior art and provide a whitening cosmetic composition which achieves the whitening effect by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and removing free radicals to inhibit melanin, and is particularly suitable for removing erythema generated after UV (ultraviolet) exposure.
The physiological process of melanin is that melanocytes produce melanin, which is transferred to keratinocytes through dendrites of melanocytes and then continuously transferred to the stratum corneum to form the skin color. The mechanism of melanin generation is that under the external stimulation or normal physiological condition, tyrosine is gradually changed into dopa, dopaquinone, dopachrome, dihydroxyindole or dihydroxyindole carboxylic acid through catalytic oxidation, and finally melanin is formed. Tyrosinase plays a crucial role in the process, and the activity of the tyrosinase is in a positive relationship with the amount of melanin. Meanwhile, superoxide anion free radicals are required to participate in the process of catalyzing and oxidizing tyrosine by tyrosinase, so that the invention mainly inhibits melanin by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase and eliminating the free radicals, can prevent the formation of the melanin, and has whitening effect on formed UV erythema and UV pigmentation.
The specific scheme is as follows:
the whitening cosmetic composition is prepared from three systems including an A phase system, a B phase system and a C phase system according to mass percentage, wherein:
the phase A comprises the following components: 0.05-0.2% of allantoin; 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate; 1-5% of butanediol; 0.01-0.05% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.01-0.05% of citric acid; 1-5% of nicotinamide; 0.5-5% of raspberry ketone glucoside; 1-5% of tremella polysaccharide; 1-5% of saccharide isomerate; 1-5% of beta-glucan; 0.1-2% of astaxanthin; 1-5% of plant extract;
the phase B comprises the following components: 1-5% of jojoba seed oil; 1-5% of volatile silicone oil; 0.8-1.2% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.1-0.3% of sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer;
the phase C comprises the following components: 0.5-1% of preservative and 0.05-0.2% of bisabolol; 0.01-0.1% of essence; 0-0.001% of a coloring agent;
the balance being water.
Further, the phase A comprises the following components: 0.1-0.2% of allantoin; 0.03-0.08% of sodium hyaluronate; 2-4% of butanediol; 0.02-0.04% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.01-0.03% of citric acid; 2-5% of nicotinamide; 1-4% of raspberry ketone glucoside; 1-5% of tremella polysaccharide; 1-5% of saccharide isomerate; 1-5% of beta-glucan; 0.1-2% of astaxanthin; 1-5% of plant extract.
Further, the phase B comprises the following components: 2-4% of jojoba seed oil; 2-4% of volatile silicone oil; 0.8-1.2% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.1-0.3% of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
Further, the phase C comprises the following components: 0.5-1% of preservative and 0.1-0.2% of bisabolol; 0.01-0.1% of essence; 0.0002 to 0.001 percent of colorant.
Further, the plant extract is at least one of centella extract, giant knotweed root extract, scutellaria root extract, tea extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, chamomile flower extract and rosemary leaf extract; preferably, the mixture of centella asiatica extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and rosemary leaf extract, or the mixture of centella asiatica extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, rosemary leaf extract, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, scutellaria baicalensis root extract, tea leaf extract and chamomile flower extract.
Further, the phase A is a water phase, the phase B is an oil phase, the phase A is added into the phase B to form emulsification, and the phase C is added to obtain the whitening cosmetic composition, wherein the whitening cosmetic composition is cream-shaped, and the skin feel is fresh and not greasy.
The invention also provides a preparation method of the whitening cosmetic composition, which comprises the following steps:
obtaining a phase A system: adding water, allantoin and sodium hyaluronate in the phase A material into a container, heating, stirring and dissolving completely, then cooling, adding the phase A residue material, and stirring uniformly to obtain a phase A system;
obtaining a B phase system: adding the phase B material into an emulsifying pot, and stirring until the material body is uniformly dispersed to obtain a phase B system;
and adding the phase A system into the phase B system under a vacuum condition, homogenizing, uniformly stirring, then adding the phase C material, homogenizing, and uniformly stirring to obtain the whitening cosmetic composition.
Further, in the step of obtaining the phase A system, the heating temperature is 80-90 ℃;
optionally, the homogenization treatment time is 5-10 minutes.
Optionally, adding the phase A system into the phase B system under vacuum condition, after homogenizing treatment, cooling the system to below 45 ℃, and then adding the phase C material.
Further, filtering, namely adding the phase A system into the phase B system under a vacuum condition, homogenizing, uniformly stirring, then adding the phase C material, homogenizing, uniformly stirring, and then filtering to obtain the whitening cosmetic composition; preferably, the filtration is performed by using a filter screen, and the pore size of the filter screen is 250-350 meshes.
The invention also protects the application of the whitening cosmetic composition in the field of cosmetics.
Has the advantages that:
the formula of the invention is nicotinamide, raspberry ketone glucoside, astaxanthin, bisabolol, centella asiatica extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and rosemary leaf extract to achieve the effects of whitening and brightening the skin. Specifically, the method comprises the following steps:
nicotinamide acts on produced melanin, accelerates metabolism of skin cells, promotes the shedding of melanin-containing keratinocytes, participates in the transportation of melanosomes, and reduces the migration of melanosomes to surface cells, thereby realizing the speckle-lightening and whitening effects.
Raspberry ketone glucoside can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, is an excellent nitric oxide trapping agent, reduces activity of melanocytes, and reduces melanin generation; eliminating nitric oxide, active oxygen, free radical, etc. in skin, preventing skin aging, and generating wrinkle; reducing erythema and pigmentation of skin after UV irradiation, relieving red swelling after summer illumination, and regulating skin inflammation.
Astaxanthin has strong antioxidation effect, and can effectively inhibit free radicals, inhibit melanin generation, remove wrinkles, recover skin elasticity, and improve skin smoothness.
The bisabolol has good compatibility with skin, is suitable for allergic skin, and has effects of diminishing inflammation and relieving itching; also has skin whitening and antiaging effects.
Further, the present invention contains plant extracts, preferably centella asiatica extract + glycyrrhiza glabra root extract + rosemary leaf extract, wherein:
the centella asiatica (CENTELLA ASIATICA) extract can tighten the junction between epidermis and dermis, soften skin, promote collagen formation in dermis, tighten skin, and increase hydration of stratum corneum. Functionally, it can promote blood circulation; improving acne skin; preventing pigmentation; promoting the generation of collagen of the skin, improving the elasticity of the skin and delaying the aging of the skin; the post-basking repair after uv irradiation has been demonstrated to have significant effects.
The extract of Glycyrrhiza GLABRA (Glycyrrhiza GLABRA) root can inhibit tyrosinase activity and dopachrome interconversion and DHICA oxidase activity, is a rapid, high-efficiency, green cosmetic additive for whitening and removing speckle, has oxygen radical scavenging ability similar to SOD (superoxide dismutase), and has oxygen radical resisting ability similar to vitamin E.
The extract of rosemary (Rosmarinus OFFICINALIS) leaf contains rosmarinic acid. It has strong antioxidant activity, which is stronger than vitamin E, caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, folic acid, etc. It can effectively remove active oxygen in environmental pollution, inhibit melanin formation, and has excellent whitening and moisturizing effects. The rosmarinic acid also has strong anti-inflammatory activity, and has the functions of protecting skin, strengthening skin and promoting blood circulation. The whitening skin care product has the effects of inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, eliminating free radicals, inhibiting melanin, enhancing skin barrier and promoting skin blood microcirculation to achieve the whitening effect.
Furthermore, the invention adopts the salt intolerance of the acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer and the volatile silicone oil to mix in the aspect of skin feel, so that fresh and non-greasy skin feel can be provided, and the product is fresh and non-greasy although the texture is cream.
Finally, the invention adopts cold-blending emulsification (namely emulsification at normal temperature without heating emulsification) in the process, thereby greatly shortening the production time and improving the production efficiency.
Drawings
In order to illustrate the technical solution of the present invention more clearly, the drawings will be briefly described below, and it is apparent that the drawings in the following description relate only to some embodiments of the present invention and are not intended to limit the present invention.
FIG. 1 is a graph of melanin signal intensity provided by one embodiment of the present invention;
fig. 2 is a graph of whitening effect according to an embodiment of the present invention;
FIG. 3 is a photograph of an experiment of zebra fish according to an embodiment of the present invention;
fig. 4 is a graph showing the results of the UV irradiation whitening test according to an embodiment of the present invention.
Detailed Description
Definitions for some of the terms used in the present invention are given below, and other terms not described have definitions and meanings known in the art:
in the invention, the main effects of the main raw materials are as follows:
the sodium hyaluronate has excellent moisturizing and lubricating properties, is commonly called as 'natural moisturizing factor', has 1000 times of water locking capacity and has excellent moisturizing performance. The low molecular weight can permeate into dermis of skin, supplement HA content in vivo, regulate skin metabolism, promote blood microcirculation, moisten skin, smooth, fine and tender, help to repair damage of epidermis, eliminate oxygen free radical generated by sun, and delay skin aging.
Allantoin has effects of protecting tissue, making it hydrophilic, absorbing water, preventing water from diffusing, and moistening skin; it has effects in promoting tissue growth and cell metabolism, softening cutin, softening skin, removing wrinkle, and improving skin elasticity.
Niacinamide, also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinamide, is one of the most stable vitamins, and is stable to light, heat, oxidation and reducing agents, and can inhibit melanin from reaching the skin surface and protect the skin from more uv damage; furthermore, according to the British Journal of Dermatology in 2000, external use of niacinamide has been shown to increase the levels of skin ceramide (ceramide) and free fatty acids (free fatty acid), prevent the skin from losing water, stimulate the microcirculation of the dermis layer, and be biodegradable. Nicotinamide acts on produced melanin, accelerates metabolism of skin cells, promotes the shedding of melanin-containing keratinocytes, participates in the transportation of melanosomes, and reduces the migration of melanosomes to surface cells, thereby realizing the speckle-lightening and whitening effects.
Raspberry ketone glucoside can effectively inhibit tyrosinase activity, is an excellent nitric oxide trapping agent, reduces activity of melanocytes, and reduces melanin generation; eliminating nitric oxide, active oxygen, free radical, etc. in skin, preventing skin aging, and generating wrinkle; reducing erythema and pigmentation of skin after UV irradiation, relieving red swelling after summer illumination, and regulating skin inflammation.
Astaxanthin has strong antioxidation effect, and can effectively inhibit free radicals, inhibit melanin generation, remove wrinkles, recover skin elasticity, and improve skin smoothness.
The tremella polysaccharide is a main active ingredient in tremella, and is a heteropolysaccharide separated and purified from tremella sporophore and tremella cell submerged fermentation spore. Has certain ability of eliminating hydroxyl free radicals, excellent moisturizing effect, and can improve skin texture, reduce skin roughness and increase skin elasticity.
The beta-glucan has good film forming property, can help the skin to keep moisture, and has the beauty of invisible skin. It has antioxidant effect, and can remarkably reduce skin wrinkle and improve skin elasticity; tolerance to protect skin from ultraviolet rays and external stimuli; the beta-glucan can also endow the product with good use skin feel and increase the active transdermal absorption.
Saccharide isomerate, a natural humectant extracted from the glycerosucrose complex, assists in the incorporation of water into keratin in the stratum corneum to achieve a moisturizing effect. A very good water-retaining agent and emollient has the functions of repairing epidermal cells and improving the skin moisturizing capability, and the isomerized D-glucan manufactured by a biochemical technology has a composition structure similar to the human cuticle, can be combined with epsilon-amino acid functional groups when being used on the skin, is firmly combined like a magnet, and can maintain the water magnetic field capability of the skin for a long time.
Jojoba (Simmondsia CHINENSIS) seed oil is easily absorbed by skin, can be mixed with sebum, can supplement ester lost from skin, and improve luster, and the formed oil film can control water loss without greasy feeling after use.
The bisabolol has good compatibility with skin, is suitable for allergic skin, and has effects of diminishing inflammation and relieving itching; also has skin whitening and antiaging effects.
The centella asiatica (CENTELLA ASIATICA) extract can tighten the junction between epidermis and dermis, soften skin, promote collagen formation in dermis, tighten skin, and increase hydration of stratum corneum. Functionally, it can promote blood circulation; improving acne skin; preventing pigmentation; promoting the generation of collagen of the skin, improving the elasticity of the skin and delaying the aging of the skin; the post-basking repair after uv irradiation has been demonstrated to have significant effects.
The extract of rhizoma Polygoni Cuspidati (Polygonum CUSPIDATUM) root has good inhibition effect on B-16 melanocyte activity, and has effect in promoting macrophage activity, and in cell culture, the macrophage can phagocytize melanin, so as to reduce melanin content and achieve whitening effect.
The extract of root of Scutellaria BAICALENSIS (Scutellaria BAICALENSIS) has effects of inhibiting elastase, promoting interferon secretion, and scavenging free radicals, and has effects of increasing skin metabolism, skin elasticity and resisting wrinkle; the Scutellariae radix extract can improve sebum composition, and make skin soft and moist; it also has effects in inhibiting dermatitis and preventing and treating histamine-releasing allergy.
The tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract contains tea polyphenols as main ingredient, and has effects of inhibiting lipid peroxidation and scavenging free radicals to improve skin cell membrane stability and delay aging. It can enter human body cells from skin, clear or alleviate secondary pigment deposition, thereby alleviating skin aging.
The extract of Glycyrrhiza GLABRA (Glycyrrhiza GLABRA) root can inhibit tyrosinase activity and dopachrome interconversion and DHICA oxidase activity, is a rapid, high-efficiency, green cosmetic additive for whitening and removing speckle, has oxygen radical scavenging ability similar to SOD (superoxide dismutase), and has oxygen radical resisting ability similar to vitamin E.
Flos Matricariae Chamomillae (Chamomilla RECUTITA) extract has effects of relieving skin, resisting skin sensitivity, resisting inflammation, resisting bacteria, and resisting oxidation. Its soothing and deep moisturizing effects can play a role in quickly relieving skin problems. The chamomile extract contains flavonoid compounds, amino acids and other components, can well play a moisturizing effect, can regulate the water-oil balance of skin to a certain degree, and can reduce the generation of acnes, resist oxidation and slow down skin aging due to the anti-inflammatory effect of the chamomile extract.
The extract of rosemary (Rosmarinus OFFICINALIS) leaf contains rosmarinic acid. It has strong antioxidant activity, which is stronger than vitamin E, caffeic acid, chlorogenic acid, folic acid, etc. It can effectively remove active oxygen in environmental pollution, inhibit melanin formation, and has excellent whitening and moisturizing effects. The rosmarinic acid also has strong anti-inflammatory activity, and has the functions of protecting skin, strengthening skin and promoting blood circulation.
Preservative: the preservative in the present invention may be any preservative material commonly used in the art, such as phenoxyethanol.
Colorant: the coloring agent in the present invention may be optionally added, and when it is necessary to add, a coloring agent commonly used in the art, for example: CI 14700 or CI 19140.
Preferably, the skin whitening cream simultaneously adopts niacinamide, raspberry ketone glucoside, astaxanthin, bisabolol, asiatic pennywort herb extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and rosemary leaf extract, and sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, tremella polysaccharide, beta-glucan, saccharide isomerate, POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM (Polygonum CUSPIDATUM) root extract, SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS (Scutellaria BAICALENSIS) root extract, tea (CAMELLIA SINENSIS) leaf extract and chamomile (CHAMOMILLA RECUTITA) flower extract have an auxiliary effect on the skin, so that a better whitening effect is achieved.
Preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in more detail below. While the following describes preferred embodiments of the present invention, it should be understood that the present invention may be embodied in various forms and should not be limited by the embodiments set forth herein. The examples do not specify particular techniques or conditions, and are performed according to the techniques or conditions described in the literature in the art or according to the product specifications. The reagents or instruments used are not indicated by the manufacturer, and are all conventional products commercially available. In the following examples, "%" means weight percent, unless otherwise specified.
Example 1
A whitening cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate; 3% of butanediol; 2% of beta-glucan; 0.1 percent of allantoin; 2% of nicotinamide; raspberry ketone glucoside 0.5%; 0.02% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.03 percent of citric acid; 2% of tremella polysaccharide; saccharide isomer 2%; 5% of plant extract; 3% of volatile silicone oil; jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil 3%; 1% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.2 percent of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; 0.1% of bisabolol; 0.1% of essence; 2% of astaxanthin; preservative 0.8%, CI 147000.0003%; CI 191400.0001%; the balance being water.
Specifically, the plant extract is prepared by mixing an asiatic pennywort herb extract, a glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and a rosemary leaf extract according to the mass ratio of 1:1:1, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
The preparation method comprises the following steps:
1. cleaning and disinfecting production equipment and tools;
2. adding the B-phase material into an emulsifying pot, and stirring until the material body is uniformly dispersed;
3. adding water, allantoin and sodium hyaluronate in the phase A material into a water kettle, heating to 85 ℃, stirring and dissolving completely, cooling to below 45 ℃, adding the phase A residue material, and stirring uniformly;
4. starting vacuum, pumping the phase A material into the phase B of the emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 10 minutes, uniformly stirring, adding the phase C material into the emulsifying pot, homogenizing for 5 minutes, and uniformly stirring;
5. sampling and detecting, and filtering and discharging qualified products.
Example 2
A whitening cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate; 3% of butanediol; 2% of beta-glucan; 0.1 percent of allantoin; 2% of nicotinamide; raspberry ketone glucoside 2%; 0.02% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.03 percent of citric acid; 2% of tremella polysaccharide; saccharide isomer 2%; 5% of plant extract; 3% of volatile silicone oil; jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil 3%; 1% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.2 percent of sodium acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl sodium taurate copolymer; 0.1% of bisabolol; 0.1% of essence; 2% of astaxanthin; preservative 0.8%, CI 147000.0003%; CI 191400.0001%; the balance being water.
Specifically, the plant extract is prepared by mixing an asiatic pennywort herb extract, a glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and a rosemary leaf extract according to the mass ratio of 1:1:1, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol.
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Example 3
A whitening cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate; 3% of butanediol; 2% of beta-glucan; 0.1 percent of allantoin; 2% of nicotinamide; raspberry ketone glucoside 5%; 0.02% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.03 percent of citric acid; 2% of tremella polysaccharide; saccharide isomer 2%; 5% of plant extract; 3% of volatile silicone oil; jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil 3%; 1% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.2 percent of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; 0.1% of bisabolol; 0.1 percent of essence; 2% of astaxanthin; preservative 0.8%, CI 147000.0003%; CI 191400.0001%; the balance being water.
Specifically, the plant extract is prepared by mixing an asiatic pennywort herb extract, a glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and a rosemary leaf extract according to the mass ratio of 1:1:1, and the preservative is phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, and the volume ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the caprylyl glycol is 1: 5.
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Example 4
A whitening cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate; 3% of butanediol; 2% of beta-glucan; 0.1 percent of allantoin; 2% of nicotinamide; raspberry ketone glucoside 1%; 0.02% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.03 percent of citric acid; 2% of tremella polysaccharide; saccharide isomer 2%; 5% of plant extract; 3% of volatile silicone oil; jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil 3%; 1% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.2 percent of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; 0.1% of bisabolol; 0.1% of essence; 2% of astaxanthin; preservative 0.8%, CI 147000.0003%; CI 191400.0001%; the balance being water.
Specifically, the plant extract is prepared by mixing centella extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, rosemary leaf extract, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, scutellaria baicalensis root extract, tea extract and chamomile flower extract, wherein the extracts are mixed by mass, the preservative is phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol, and the volume ratio of the phenoxyethanol to the caprylyl glycol is 1: 5.
The preparation method is the same as example 1.
Evaluation of the effects:
(1) zebra fish whitening evaluation experiment
The main contents of the experiment are as follows:
zebrafish strain: wild type AB strain
Evaluation indexes are as follows: quantification of melanin in the head
The administration mode comprises the following steps: dissolving in water, and directly administering, i.e. dissolving the pelvic ketonic glucoside in water to prepare aqueous solutions with different concentrations.
The administration period is as follows: 6hpf-48hpf
The analysis method comprises the following steps: ImageJ background removal analysis for OD value
The specific method comprises the following steps: 30 fishes per well in a six-well plate, adding the test substances with different concentrations into the six-well plate in a volume of 3ml, incubating 6hpf-48hpf at 28 ℃ in a dark place, and observing the melanin distribution of the zebra fishes.
The experimental results are shown in fig. 1 and fig. 2, wherein the ordinate in fig. 1 is the OD value, and the whitening effect in fig. 2 is calculated in the following manner: experimental group melanin signal intensity/normal control group melanin signal intensity 100%.
As can be seen from FIGS. 1 and 2, the signal intensity of melanin gradually decreases when the addition amount of raspberry ketone glucoside increases, and when the addition amount of raspberry ketone glucoside is 10mg/ml, the signal intensity of melanin is close to 0, and the whitening effect is 99%.
Fig. 3 shows experimental photos of zebra fish in the experimental process, and it can be seen from the experimental photos of zebra fish that the content of melanin in zebra fish is reduced remarkably after the addition amount of raspberry ketone glucoside is gradually increased. When the concentration of raspberry ketoside is 10mg/ml, the zebrafish melanin is basically completely disappeared.
(2) Zebra fish safety evaluation experiment
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
1. adding 30 fishes per hole in a six-hole plate, adding the test substances with different concentrations into the six-hole plate in a volume of 3ml, incubating for 48 hours at 28 ℃ in a dark place, and observing the development condition of the zebra fishes. The test substances tested were: dissolving the test substances into water, and preparing into water solutions with different concentrations for testing.
2. If dysplasia or death is found, the tested substance with the concentration has strong toxicity to the zebra fish, and is not suitable for testing, and the tested concentration needs dilution treatment.
The experimental results are as follows:
abnormality or death still does not occur when the highest test concentration of the raspberry glycoside is 10 mg/ml; the highest safe concentration of the phenethyl resorcinol is 0.75 mg/ml; the highest safe concentration of B-arbutin is 3 mg/ml.
Therefore, the raspberry glycoside is safer and milder while whitening, and the safe concentration of phenethyl resorcinol, B-arbutin and the like is reduced, so that the use risk exists.
(3) Test for relieving UV irradiation and whitening
The experimental method comprises the following steps:
1. the test includes the test of inhibiting ultraviolet erythema, inhibiting ultraviolet pigmentation and whitening effect.
2. 20 volunteers were recruited and UV irradiated using the samples prepared in examples 1, 3, 4, and a control group of arbutin (3 mg/ml aqueous solution of arbutin was used as the control group). The skin was scored for erythema and pigmentation and the whitening effect was evaluated. The results are shown in FIG. 4.
In fig. 4, a represents UV erythema test, B represents UV pigmentation, and C represents the whitening effective population ratio.
The scoring method is as follows:
1) judging erythema: clear 2, clear 1.5, unclear 1, unclear 0.5, no erythema 0;
2) pigmentation criteria:
high 4, medium 3, low 2, low 1, no 0.
As can be seen from fig. 4: by using the sample prepared by the embodiment of the invention, the erythema generated after UV exposure is unclear, only slight color number deposition is generated, and the proportion of effective whitening people reaches 90 percent.
Comparative example 1
Preparing raw materials according to the following proportions: 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate; 3% of butanediol; 2% of beta-glucan; 0.1 percent of allantoin; 2% of nicotinamide; raspberry ketone glucoside 0.5%; 0.02% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.03 percent of citric acid; 2% of tremella polysaccharide; saccharide isomer 2%; 5% of plant extract; 3% of volatile silicone oil; jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil 3%; 1% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.1% of bisabolol; 0.1% of essence; 2% of astaxanthin; 0.8% of preservative, CI 147000.0003%; CI 191400.0001%; the balance being water.
Preparation method referring to example 1, it was found that the cream made according to this embodiment could not achieve the texture and skin feel of the product prepared in example 1, and at the same time, the product was unstable and water-melting occurred during the storage.
Comparative example 2
Preparing raw materials according to the following proportions: 0.05% of sodium hyaluronate; 3% of butanediol; 2% of beta-glucan; 0.1 percent of allantoin; 2% of nicotinamide; raspberry ketone glucoside 0.3%; 0.02% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.03 percent of citric acid; 2% of tremella polysaccharide; saccharide isomer 2%; 5% of plant extract; 3% of volatile silicone oil; jojoba (SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS) seed oil 3%; 0.5% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.1 percent of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer; 0.1% of bisabolol; 0.1% of essence; 2% of astaxanthin; preservative 0.8%, CI 147000.0003%; CI 191400.0001%; the balance being water.
Preparation method referring to example 1, it is found that the cream prepared by the scheme can not achieve the texture and skin feel of the product prepared in example 1, and the whitening effect is inferior to that of example 1; meanwhile, the product stability is inferior to that of the product in the example 1 and is superior to that of the product in the comparative example 1.
The preferred embodiments of the present invention have been described in detail, however, the present invention is not limited to the specific details of the above embodiments, and various simple modifications may be made to the technical solution of the present invention within the technical idea of the present invention, and these simple modifications are within the protective scope of the present invention.
It should be noted that the various features described in the above embodiments may be combined in any suitable manner without departing from the scope of the invention. The invention is not described in detail in order to avoid unnecessary repetition.
In addition, any combination of the various embodiments of the present invention is also possible, and the same should be considered as the disclosure of the present invention as long as it does not depart from the spirit of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. A whitening cosmetic composition characterized by: the whitening cosmetic composition is prepared from three systems including an A phase, a B phase and a C phase, and the whitening cosmetic composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass:
the phase A comprises the following components: 0.05-0.2% of allantoin; 0.01-0.1% of sodium hyaluronate; 1-5% of butanediol; 0.01-0.05% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.01-0.05% of citric acid; 1-5% of nicotinamide; 0.5-5% of raspberry ketone glucoside; 1-5% of tremella polysaccharide; 1-5% of saccharide isomerate; 1-5% of beta-glucan; 0.1-2% of astaxanthin; 1-5% of plant extract;
the phase B comprises the following components: 1-5% of jojoba seed oil; 1-5% of volatile silicone oil; 0.8-1.2% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.1-0.3% of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer;
the phase C comprises the following components: 0.5-1% of preservative and 0.05-0.2% of bisabolol; 0.01-0.1% of essence; 0-0.001% of a coloring agent;
the balance being water.
2. The whitening cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein: the phase A comprises the following components: 0.1-0.2% of allantoin; 0.03-0.08% of sodium hyaluronate; 2-4% of butanediol; 0.02-0.04% of sodium glucoheptonate; 0.01-0.03% of citric acid; 2-5% of nicotinamide; 1-4% of raspberry ketone glucoside; 1-5% of tremella polysaccharide; 1-5% of saccharide isomerate; 1-5% of beta-glucan; 0.1-2% of astaxanthin; 1-5% of plant extract.
3. The whitening cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein: the phase B comprises the following components: 2-4% of jojoba seed oil; 2-4% of volatile silicone oil; 0.8-1.2% of acryloyl dimethyl ammonium taurate/VP copolymer; 0.1-0.3% of sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer.
4. The whitening cosmetic composition of claim 1, wherein: the phase C comprises the following components: 0.5-1% of preservative and 0.1-0.2% of bisabolol; 0.01-0.1% of essence; 0.0002 to 0.001 percent of colorant.
5. The whitening cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein: the plant extract is at least one of centella extract, giant knotweed rhizome extract, scutellaria root extract, tea extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, chamomile flower extract and rosemary leaf extract; preferably, the mixture of centella asiatica extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract and rosemary leaf extract, or the mixture of centella asiatica extract, glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, rosemary leaf extract, polygonum cuspidatum root extract, scutellaria baicalensis root extract, tea leaf extract and chamomile flower extract.
6. The whitening cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein: the phase A is a water phase, the phase B is an oil phase, the phase A is added into the phase B to form emulsification, and the phase C is added to obtain the whitening cosmetic composition, wherein the whitening cosmetic composition is cream and has fresh and non-greasy skin feel.
7. A method for preparing the whitening cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein: the method comprises the following steps:
obtaining a phase A system: adding water, allantoin and sodium hyaluronate in the phase A material into a container, heating, stirring and dissolving completely, then cooling, adding the phase A residue material, and stirring uniformly to obtain a phase A system;
obtaining a B phase system: adding the phase B material into an emulsifying pot, and stirring until the material body is uniformly dispersed to obtain a phase B system;
and adding the phase A system into the phase B system under a vacuum condition, homogenizing, uniformly stirring, then adding the phase C material, homogenizing, and uniformly stirring to obtain the whitening cosmetic composition.
8. The method for preparing a whitening cosmetic composition according to claim 7, characterized in that: in the step of obtaining the phase A system, the heating temperature is 80-90 ℃, and then the temperature is reduced to below 45 ℃ and the AC phase residual material is added; optionally, adding the phase A system into the phase B system under a vacuum condition, and after homogenizing treatment, cooling the system to below 45 ℃ and then adding the phase C material;
optionally, the homogenization treatment time is 5-10 minutes.
9. The method for preparing the whitening cosmetic composition according to claim 7 or 8, wherein: the whitening cosmetic composition is prepared by the following steps of adding a phase A system into a phase B system under a vacuum condition, homogenizing, uniformly stirring, adding a phase C material, homogenizing, uniformly stirring, and filtering; preferably, the filtration is performed by using a filter screen, and the aperture of the filter screen is 250-350 meshes.
10. Use of the whitening cosmetic composition of any one of claims 1 to 6 in the cosmetic field.
CN202210168774.XA 2022-02-23 2022-02-23 Whitening cosmetic composition and preparation method and application thereof Pending CN114533613A (en)

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