CN114340587A - 微胶囊和毛发护理组合物 - Google Patents
微胶囊和毛发护理组合物 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN114340587A CN114340587A CN202080061670.8A CN202080061670A CN114340587A CN 114340587 A CN114340587 A CN 114340587A CN 202080061670 A CN202080061670 A CN 202080061670A CN 114340587 A CN114340587 A CN 114340587A
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- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- shell
- core
- microcapsules
- piroctone
- isocyanate
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims description 94
- -1 piroctone compound Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 78
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- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 claims description 8
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- NIMLQBUJDJZYEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N isophorone diisocyanate Chemical compound CC1(C)CC(N=C=O)CC(C)(CN=C=O)C1 NIMLQBUJDJZYEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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Abstract
一种具有液体核芯和外壳的核壳微胶囊,其中该液体核芯包含溶剂和吡罗克酮化合物,并且该壳包含含有氨基磺酸的聚脲。
Description
发明领域
本发明涉及包含吡罗克酮化合物的微胶囊、制备包含吡罗克酮化合物的微胶囊的方法以及去头屑毛发护理组合物。特别地,涉及包含表面活性剂和作为去头屑活性物质的吡罗克酮化合物的组合物。
发明背景
头皮屑是一个影响全球许多人的问题。这种情况表现为从头皮上脱落的死皮肤细胞的团块。它们是白色的,并提供了一种美学上令人不愉快的外观。导致头皮屑的一个因素是马拉色氏菌(Malassezia)酵母的某些成员。为了解决这些问题,开发了包含各种活性成分的头发处理组合物以发挥其去头屑的功效。吡罗克酮化合物如吡罗克酮乙醇胺就是这样一种活性物质。
为了帮助沉积和增加去头屑活性物质的有效性,在某些情况下,去头屑剂可以包封。
在EP 1 702 674(Cognis)中公开了去头屑剂的包封。
WO 2017/084826(Unilever)公开了一种核壳微胶囊,其中微胶囊的液体核芯包含溶剂,并且去头屑剂氯咪巴唑溶解在溶剂中。
然而,仍然需要一种稳定的***来包封吡罗克酮化合物,且其在干燥时缓慢释放吡罗克酮。据信在干燥时活性物质的缓释给出持续更久的去头屑益处。
发明概述
根据本发明,提供了一种核壳微胶囊,其具有液体核芯和外壳,其中液体核芯包含溶剂和吡罗克酮化合物,并且壳包含含有氨基磺酸的聚脲。
不受理论的束缚,据认为将氨基磺酸加入到壳聚合物中具有降低微胶囊在头皮上干燥时塌陷的程度的作用,并因此增加皮脂可溶性去头屑活性物质的作用的持久。
本发明还涉及一种毛发护理组合物,其包含表面活性剂和总组合物的至少0.05重量%的上述核壳微胶囊。
发明详述
本发明的组合物包含核壳微粒,其中壳的聚脲由氨基磺酸形成。
优选地,除了氨基磺酸之外,聚脲壳包含异氰酸酯和胺的单体单元。优选的是异氰酸酯是脂族的,更优选它是脂族的和是环状或支化的。
用于形成聚脲的胺单元性质上可以是单体或聚合胺。。
优选地,用于制备聚脲的脂族异氰酸酯单体包含异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯和/或六亚甲基二异氰酸酯。
聚脲壳包含氨基磺酸,优选地氨基磺酸是牛磺酸。
优选地,氨基磺酸在聚脲壳的制备过程中以相对于异氰酸酯至少0.1重量%,更优选地相对于异氰酸酯至少1重量%,并且最优选地相对于异氰酸酯5重量%的水平添加。
优选地,用于制备聚脲的胺还包含二亚乙基三胺、三(2-氨基乙基)胺、双(六亚甲基)三胺和/或聚乙烯亚胺。
聚合工艺可以使用Pickering乳液型方法。在WO 2008/145547中教导了这种方法。本领域技术人员已知的基于Pickering乳液法的壳化学物质是三聚氰胺甲醛、脲甲醛和三聚氰胺乙二醛。或者,可以通过界面聚合进行聚合过程。在US 2013/330292中教导了用于制造聚脲微胶囊的合适方法。形成本发明的聚脲的壳化学是技术人员已知的,其基于界面聚合,是通过多异氰酸酯和多胺的反应形成的聚脲。
核壳微胶囊的直径优选为至少5微米。直径应小于50微米,因为如果大于该直径,则颗粒变得肉眼可见。优选地,微胶囊直径在5至20微米的范围内,更优选地在10至15微米的范围内。
可以将对发根或头皮具有亲和力的沉积助剂接枝到微胶囊壳的外部。优选的沉积助剂和优选壳材料的接枝方法在别处教导并且是技术人员已知的。最优选的是:接枝葡聚糖;HPC(和其他疏水改性多糖);更优选的是壳聚糖盐。WO 14/064121公开了使用壳聚糖盐作为沉积助剂用于增加微胶囊在头发上的沉积,WO 13/026656公开了使用葡聚糖作为沉积助剂以用于从洗发剂沉积微胶囊,和WO 13/026657公开了HPMC和HEMC作为沉积助剂以帮助微胶囊从洗发剂沉积的用途。
有利地,沉积助剂在步骤(d)之前或期间添加,以共价键合到微胶囊的表面。或者,可以将隔离物结合到微胶囊的表面,然后将沉积助剂反应到隔离物上。聚乙二醇是合适的间隔物。优选的沉积助剂选自:接枝葡聚糖、HPC(和其他疏水改性的多糖)和肽。优选阳离子聚合物,特别是壳聚糖。
而且,根据本发明,提供了一种洗发剂,其包含表面活性剂和总组合物至少0.05重量%的核壳微胶囊,优选0.1至1.0重量%。
壳微胶囊内包含的溶剂与吡罗克酮化合物的比率为至少15:1,优选至少11:1。
用于本发明的吡罗克酮化合物包含吡罗克酮酸、吡罗克酮酸的伯、仲和叔醇胺盐(例如二乙醇胺和三乙醇胺盐)以及它们的混合物,优选吡罗克酮酸、吡罗克酮酸的伯醇胺盐(即吡罗克酮乙醇胺,也称为)及其混合物,更优选吡罗克酮酸。
溶剂
关键的是核壳微粒内的溶剂可以有效地溶解吡罗克酮化合物,否则毛发护理组合物中所需的微胶囊的数量将变得不可忍受地高。优选的溶剂是芳族的。本发明优选的最小溶解能力是使得在吡罗克酮化合物溶解时使用至多8倍,优选至多5倍的溶剂。一旦溶解,重要的是,一旦微囊破裂并输送其液体核芯有效载荷,吡罗克酮化合物保留在溶液中,因为这有助于吡罗克酮化合物的输送。优选的溶剂包含香料组分,并且在这种情况下,它们将包含至少50重量%的中香和低香以得到低挥发性,使得溶解的吡罗克酮化合物在微胶囊破裂后保留在溶液中。因此,溶剂体系应避免其使用导致吡罗克酮化合物在25℃下在少于1小时内从开放的测试溶液中结晶出来的挥发性溶剂。溶剂的cLog P应优选大于1.8,更优选大于2,最优选大于3。可以以混合物或单独使用的合适溶剂是庚酮。
吡罗克酮化合物水平
微胶囊中吡罗克酮化合物的水平应尽可能高而不使其从溶液中析出。对于优选的溶剂***,每颗粒的水平通常至少是现有技术的胶乳颗粒的两倍。这意味着与该现有技术相比,递送***的量减少了。
优选地,吡罗克酮化合物以组合物的0.01至1重量%,更优选以组合物的0.05至0.6重量%,最优选0.01至0.5重量%存在。
表面活性剂体系
该组合物可以是用作毛发护理产品以处理头发的任何常见产品形式。优选地,它是洗去型组合物,和最优选地,它是去头屑洗发剂组合物。
取决于产品形式,该组合物可以包含常见于毛发护理产品中的任何成分。
例如,当组合物是洗发剂时,它将包含表面活性剂体系,该体系包含至少一种适用于洗发剂的清洁表面活性剂。当它是旨在提供调理益处的组合物时,它将包含调理活性物质。合适的调理活性物质包含脂肪醇、硅酮和阳离子表面活性剂。
合适的阴离子清洁表面活性剂的实例是烷基硫酸盐、烷基醚硫酸盐、烷芳基磺酸盐、烷酰基羟乙基磺酸盐、烷基琥珀酸盐、烷基磺基琥珀酸盐、烷基醚磺基琥珀酸盐、N-烷基肌氨酸盐、烷基磷酸盐、烷基醚磷酸盐和烷基醚羧酸及其盐,尤其是它们的钠、镁、铵和单-、二-和三乙醇胺盐。烷基和酰基通常含有8-18,优选10-16个碳原子并且可以是不饱和的。烷基醚硫酸盐、烷基醚磺基琥珀酸盐、烷基醚磷酸盐和烷基醚羧酸及其盐每分子可含有1至20个环氧乙烷或环氧丙烷单元。
用于本发明组合物的典型阴离子清洁表面活性剂包括油基琥珀酸钠、月桂基磺基琥珀酸铵、月桂基硫酸钠、月桂基醚硫酸钠、月桂基醚磺基琥珀酸钠、月桂基硫酸铵、月桂基醚硫酸铵、十二烷基苯磺酸钠、十二烷基苯磺酸三乙醇胺、椰油酰基羟乙基磺酸钠、月桂基羟乙基磺酸钠、月桂基醚羧酸和N-月桂基肌氨酸钠。
优选的阴离子表面活性剂是烷基硫酸盐和烷基醚硫酸盐。这些材料具有相应的式ROSO3M和R-O(C2H4O)xSO3M,其中R是具有8至18个碳原子的烷基或烯基,x是具有约1至约10的值的整数,并且M是阳离子,例如铵、烷醇胺如三乙醇胺、一价金属如钠和钾,以及多价金属阳离子如镁和钙。最优选地,R具有12至14个碳原子,呈直链而不是支链。
优选的阴离子清洁表面活性剂选自月桂基硫酸钠和月桂基醚硫酸钠(n)EO,(其中n为1至3);更优选月桂基醚硫酸钠(n)EO,(其中n为1至3);最优选月桂基醚硫酸钠1EO。
优选烷基醚硫酸盐的含量为总组合物的0.5重量%至25重量%,更优选3重量%至18重量%,最优选总组合物的6重量%至15重量%。
本发明组合物中阴离子清洁表面活性剂的总量通常为0.5重量%至45重量%,更优选1.5重量%至20重量%的范围。
本发明的组合物可以包含非离子表面活性剂。最优选地,非离子表面活性剂以0至5重量%的范围存在。
可包含在本发明组合物中的非离子表面活性剂包含脂族(C8-C18)直链或支链伯或仲醇或酚与环氧烷(通常环氧乙烷)的缩合产物,并且通常具有6至30个环氧乙烷基团。特别优选烷基乙氧基化物。最优选的是具有式R-(OCH2CH2)nOH的烷基乙氧基化物,其中R是C12-15烷基链并且n是5至9。
其他合适的非离子表面活性剂包含单或二烷基链烷醇酰胺。实例包含椰油单或二乙醇酰胺和椰油单异丙醇酰胺。
可包含在本发明的洗发剂组合物中的其他非离子表面活性剂是烷基多糖苷(APG)。通常,APG是其中包含连接(任选地通过桥接基团)至一个或多个糖基的嵌段的烷基的APG。优选的APG由下式定义:
RO—(G)n
其中R是可以是饱和或不饱和的支链或直链烷基,G是糖基。R可代表平均长度为约C5至约C20的烷基链。最优选R代表平均长度为约C9.5至约C10.5的烷基链。G可以选自C5或C6单糖残基,并优选为糖苷。G可选自葡萄糖、木糖、乳糖、果糖、甘露糖及其衍生物。优选G是葡萄糖。
聚合度n可具有约1至约10或更大的值。优选地,n的值介于约1.1至约2之间。最优选地,n的值介于约1.3至约1.5之间。
用于本发明的合适的烷基多糖苷是可商购的并且包含例如被确定为以下的那些材料:来自Seppic的Oramix NS10;来自BASF(DeWolf)的Plantaren 1200和Plantaren2000。
可以包含在本发明组合物中的其他糖衍生的非离子表面活性剂包含C10-C18 N-烷基(C1-C6)多羟基脂肪酸酰胺,例如,C12-C18 N-甲基葡糖酰胺,例如,如在WO 92/06154和US5 194 639中所描述的,以及N-烷氧基多羟基脂肪酸酰胺,如C10-C18 N-(3-甲氧基丙基)葡糖酰胺。
可包含范围为总洗发剂组合物的0.5重量%至约8重量%,优选1重量%至4重量%的量的两性或两性离子表面活性剂。
两性或两性离子表面活性剂的实例包括烷基胺氧化物、烷基甜菜碱、烷基酰胺丙基甜菜碱、烷基磺基甜菜碱(sultaines)、烷基甘氨酸盐、烷基羧基甘氨酸盐、烷基两性乙酸盐、烷基两性丙酸盐、烷基两性甘氨酸盐、烷基酰胺丙基羟基磺基甜菜碱、酰基牛磺酸盐和酰基谷氨酸盐,其中烷基和酰基具有8至19个碳原子。用于本发明洗发剂的典型两性和两性离子表面活性剂包括月桂基氧化胺、椰油二甲基磺基丙基甜菜碱、月桂基甜菜碱、椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱和椰油两性乙酸钠。
特别优选的两性的或两性离子表面活性剂是椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱。
任何前述两性或两性离子表面活性剂的混合物也可以是合适的。优选的混合物是椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱与如上所述的另外的两性或两性离子表面活性剂的混合物。优选的另外的两性或两性离子表面活性剂是椰油两性乙酸钠。
特别优选的组合物包含表面活性剂体系,其包含:组合物的10-20重量%的月桂基硫酸钠或月桂基醚硫酸钠(n)EO,(其中n的范围为1至3);组合物的0.5至5重量%的椰油酰胺丙基甜菜碱;和组合物的0.5至5重量%的椰油两性乙酸钠或月桂基椰油两性乙酸钠。
其他成分
所述组合物还可包含一种或多种以下非必需成分:
pH调节剂
组合物的pH优选在5至8的范围内,更优选在6至7的范围内,例如6.5。可以使用本领域众所周知的碱性试剂(例如,如氢氧化钠)或酸性试剂(例如,柠檬酸)来调节组合物的pH。
阳离子聚合物
阳离子聚合物是根据本发明的毛发护理组合物中优选的成分,用于增强组合物的调理性能。
阳离子聚合物可以是均聚物或由两种或更多种类型的单体形成。聚合物的分子量通常在5,000和10,000,000,通常至少10,000,和优选在100,000至约2,000,000的范围内。聚合物将具有阳离子含氮基团,例如季铵或质子化氨基,或它们的混合物。
阳离子含氮基团通常作为取代基存在于阳离子聚合物的总单体单元的一部分上。因此,当聚合物不是均聚物时,它可以包含间隔非阳离子单体单元。在CTFA CosmeticIngredient Directory,第3版中描述了此类聚合物。选择阳离子与非阳离子单体单元的比率以得到具有在所需范围内的阳离子电荷密度的聚合物。
合适的阳离子调理聚合物包括例如,具有阳离子胺或季铵官能团的乙烯基单体与水溶性间隔单体的共聚物,其中所述水溶性间隔单体如(甲基)丙烯酰胺、烷基和二烷基(甲基)丙烯酰胺、烷基(甲基)丙烯酸酯、乙烯基己内酯和乙烯基吡咯烷。烷基和二烷基取代的单体优选具有C1-C7烷基,更优选C1-3烷基。其他合适的间隔物包括乙烯基酯、乙烯醇、马来酸酐、丙二醇和乙二醇。
阳离子胺可以是伯胺、仲胺或叔胺,这取决于组合物的特定种类和pH值。通常,优选仲胺和叔胺,尤其是叔胺。
胺取代的乙烯基单体和胺可以以胺的形式聚合,然后通过季铵化转化为铵。
阳离子调理聚合物可包含衍生自胺取代和/或季铵取代的单体和/或相容的间隔单体的单体单元的混合物。
合适的阳离子调理聚合物包括,例如:
a)1-乙烯基-2-吡咯烷和1-乙烯基-3-甲基-咪唑鎓盐(例如盐酸盐)的共聚物,在行业上按照Cosmetric,Toiletry,and Fragrance Association(CTFA)称为聚季铵盐(Polyquaternium)-16。该材料可以LUVIQUAT商品名(例如,LUVIQUAT FC 370)从BASFWyandotte Corp.(Parsippany,NJ,USA)商购;
b)1-乙烯基-2-吡咯烷和甲基丙烯酸二甲氨基乙酯的共聚物,在行业(CTFA)中称为聚季铵盐-11。该材料可以GAFQUAT商品名(例如,GAFQUAT 755N)从Gaf Corporation(Wayne,NJ,USA)商购获得;
c)含阳离子二烯丙基季铵的聚合物,包括例如,二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵均聚物以及丙烯酰胺和二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵的共聚物,在行业(CTFA)中分别称为聚季铵盐6和聚季铵盐7;
d)具有3至5个碳原子的不饱和羧酸的均聚物和共聚物的氨基烷基酯的无机酸盐(如在美国专利4,009,256中所述);
e)阳离子聚丙烯酰胺(如WO 95/22311中所述)。
可以使用的其他阳离子调理聚合物包括阳离子多糖聚合物,例如阳离子纤维素衍生物、阳离子淀粉衍生物和阳离子瓜尔胶衍生物。合适地,此类阳离子多糖聚合物具有0.1至4meq/g范围内的电荷密度。
适用于本发明组合物的阳离子多糖聚合物包括下式的那些:
A-O-[R-N+(R1)(R2)(R3)X-],
其中:A是脱水葡萄糖残基,例如,淀粉或纤维素脱水葡萄糖残基。R是亚烷基、氧化烯、聚氧化烯或羟基亚烷基,或它们的组合。R1、R2和R3独立地代表烷基、芳基、烷芳基、芳烷基、烷氧基烷基或烷氧基芳基,每一个基团含有最多约18个碳原子。每一个阳离子部分的总碳原子数(即,R1、R2和R3中的碳原子总和)优选为约20或更少,并且X是阴离子抗衡离子。
阳离子纤维素可从Amerchol Corp.(Edison,NJ,USA)以其Polymer JR(商标)和LR(商标)系列聚合物获得,作为羟乙基纤维素与三甲基铵取代的环氧化物反应的盐,行业(CTFA)上称为聚季铵盐10。另一种类型的阳离子纤维素包括羟乙基纤维素与月桂基二甲基铵取代的环氧化物反应的聚合季铵盐,在行业(CTFA)上称为聚季铵盐24。这些材料可以商品名Polymer LM-200从Amerchol Corp.(Edison,NJ,USA)获得。
其他合适的阳离子多糖聚合物包括含季氮的纤维素醚(例如,如美国专利3,962,418中所述),以及醚化纤维素和淀粉的共聚物(例如,如美国专利3,958,581中所述)。
可以使用的特别合适类型的阳离子多糖聚合物是阳离子瓜尔胶衍生物,例如瓜尔胶羟丙基三甲基氯化铵(可从Rhone-Poulenc以其JAGUAR商标系列商购)。
实例是JAGUAR C13S,它具有低阳离子基团取代度和高粘度。JAGUAR C15,具有中等取代度和低粘度;JAGUAR C17(高取代度,高粘度);JAGUAR C16,它是一种含有低水平的取代基以及阳离子季铵基团的羟丙基化阳离子瓜尔胶衍生物;以及JAGUAR 162,它是一种高透明度、中等粘度的瓜尔胶,其具有低取代度。
优选地,阳离子调理聚合物选自阳离子纤维素和阳离子瓜耳胶衍生物。特别优选的阳离子聚合物是JAGUAR C13S、JAGUAR C15、JAGUAR C17和JAGUAR C16和JAGUAR C162。据信阳离子聚合物的存在增强包含接枝HPC沉积助剂的包封物的沉积。
阳离子调理聚合物通常以组合物的0.01至5,优选0.05至1,更优选0.08至0.5重量%的水平存在于本发明的组合物中。
当阳离子调理聚合物存在于根据本发明的毛发护理组合物中时,优选的是共聚物作为平均直径(D3,2,如使用Malvern粒度仪通过光散射测量的)2微米或更小的乳液颗粒存在。
本发明的毛发护理组合物优选是水性的,即它们具有水或水性溶液或易溶液晶相作为它们的主要组分。合适地,该组合物将包含基于该组合物的总重量的50至98重量%,优选60至90重量%的水。
硅酮
去头屑头发组合物可另外包含0.1至10重量%,优选0.1至约8重量%,更优选约0.3至约5重量%的硅酮。
优选的合适的硅酮可以包括聚烷基硅氧烷、聚芳基硅氧烷、聚烷基芳基硅氧烷、聚醚硅氧烷共聚物、氨基硅酮和它们的混合物。
硅酮可以以游离硅油的形式存在,或以乳化硅油的形式存在。
优选地硅酮以乳化硅油的形式存在,更优选硅酮颗粒的水性表面活性剂稳定乳液,其数均粒度范围为10至1,000nm,最优选约100至约500nm。
氨基硅酮通常配制在毛发组合物中。氨基硅酮是含有至少一个伯胺、仲胺、叔胺或季铵基团的硅酮。也可以使用高分子量硅酮橡胶。另一种有用的类型是交联硅酮弹性体,例如聚二甲基硅氧烷/乙烯基/聚二甲基硅氧烷交联聚合物(例如,Dow Corning 9040和9041)。
合适的预成型乳化硅油的实例包括乳液DC2-1766、DC2-1784、DC-1785、DC-1786、DC-1788和微乳液DC2-1865和DC2-1870,均可从Dow Corning获得。这些都是聚二甲基硅氧烷醇的乳液或微乳液。同样合适的是氨端聚二甲基硅氧烷乳液,例如,DC939(来自DowCorning)和SME253(来自GE Silicones)。
悬浮剂
优选地,本发明的毛发护理组合物还包含悬浮剂。合适的悬浮剂选自于聚丙烯酸、丙烯酸的交联聚合物、丙烯酸与疏水单体的共聚物、含羧酸单体和丙烯酸酯的共聚物、丙烯酸和丙烯酸酯的交联共聚物、杂多糖胶和结晶长链酰基衍生物。长链酰基衍生物理想地选自乙二醇硬脂酸酯、具有16至22个碳原子的脂肪酸的链烷醇酰胺及其混合物。乙二醇二硬脂酸酯和聚乙二醇3二硬脂酸酯是优选的长链酰基衍生物,因为它们赋予组合物珠光。聚丙烯酸可作为Carbopol 420、Carbopol 488或Carbopol 493商购获得。也可使用丙烯酸与多官能试剂交联的聚合物;它们可作为Carbopol 910、Carbopol 934、Carbopol 941和Carbopol 980商购获得。含羧酸单体和丙烯酸酯的合适共聚物的实例是Carbopol 1342。所有Carbopol(商标)材料都可从Goodrich获得。
合适的丙烯酸和丙烯酸酯的交联聚合物是Pemulen TR1或Pemulen TR2。合适的杂多糖胶是黄原胶,例如,可作为Kelzan mu获得的。
可以使用任何上述悬浮剂的混合物。优选的是丙烯酸的交联聚合物和结晶长链酰基衍生物的混合物。
如果包含悬浮剂的话,悬浮剂通常以基于组合物总重量的0.1至10重量%,优选0.5至6重量%,更优选0.9至4重量%的水平存在于本发明的毛发护理组合物中。
非硅酮油性调理组分
根据本发明的组合物还可以包含分散的、非挥发性的、水不溶性的油性调理剂。
该组分将以液滴的形式分散在组合物中,其形成与组合物的水性连续相分离的不连续相。换言之,油性调理剂将以水包油乳液的形式存在于洗发剂组合物中。
“不溶性的”是指该材料在25℃下不以0.1%(w/w)的浓度溶于水(蒸馏水或等同物)中。合适地,油性调理组分的D3.2平均液滴尺寸为至少0.4,优选至少0.8,和更优选至少1微米。此外,油性调理组分的D3.2平均液滴尺寸优选不大于10,更优选不大于8,更优选不大于5,还更优选不大于4,和最优选不大于3.5μm。
油性调理剂可适当地选自油性或脂肪性材料及其混合物。
油性或脂肪性材料是本发明洗发剂组合物中优选的调理剂,用于增加头发的光泽,并且还增强干梳理和干发感觉。
优选的油性和脂肪性材料的粘度通常小于5Pa.s,更优选小于1Pa.s,和最优选小于0.5Pa.s,例如,0.1Pa.s及以下,如使用Brookfield粘度计(例如,Brookfield RV)在25摄氏度下使用以100rpm运行的主轴3所测量的。
可以使用具有较高粘度的油性和脂肪性材料。例如,可以使用粘度高达65Pa.s的材料。此类材料(即,粘度为5Pa.s及更高的材料)的粘度可以通过1970年7月20日DowCorning公司测试方法CTM004中进一步给出的玻璃毛细管粘度计的方法来测量。
合适的油性或脂肪材料选自烃油、脂肪酯及其混合物。
烃油包括环状烃、直链脂族烃(饱和或不饱和)和支链脂族烃(饱和或不饱和)。直链烃油优选含有约12至约30个碳原子。支链烃油可以并且通常可以包含更多的碳原子。烯基单体如C2至C6烯基单体的聚合烃也是合适的。这些聚合物可以是直链或支链聚合物。直链聚合物通常长度相对较短,一般具有如上文针对直链烃所描述的碳原子总数。支链聚合物可以具有显著更高的链长。此类材料的数均分子量可以在很大范围内变化,但通常高达约2000,优选约200至约1000,更优选约300至约600。
合适的烃油的具体实例包括石蜡油、矿物油、饱和和不饱和十二烷、饱和和不饱和十三烷、饱和和不饱和十四烷、饱和和不饱和十五烷、饱和和不饱和十六烷,以及它们的混合物。也可以使用这些化合物的支链异构体以及更高链长的烃。示例性支链异构体是高度支化的饱和或不饱和烷烃,例如,全甲基取代的异构体,例如,十六烷和二十烷的全甲基取代的异构体,例如,2,2,4,4,6,6,8,8-二甲基-10-甲基十一烷和2,2,4,4,6,6-二甲基-8-甲基壬烷,由Permethyl Corporation出售。烃聚合物的另一个实例是聚丁烯,例如,异丁烯和丁烯的共聚物。这种类型的市售材料是来自Amoco Chemical Co.(Chicago,Ill.,U.S.A.)的L-14聚丁烯。
特别优选的烃油是各种等级的矿物油。矿物油是从石油中获得的透明油状液体,其中蜡已被去除,而更易挥发的部分通过蒸馏去除。在250摄氏度到300摄氏度之间蒸馏的部分被称为矿物油,且它由C16H34到C21H4范围内的烃的混合物组成。这种类型的合适的市售材料包括Sirius M85和Sirius M125,它们都可以从Silkolene获得。
合适的脂肪酯的特征在于具有至少10个碳原子并且包括具有衍生自脂肪酸或醇的烃基链的酯,例如单羧酸酯、多元醇酯以及二羧酸酯和三羧酸酯。本文的脂肪酯的烃基还可以包括或具有与其共价键合的其他相容官能团,例如酰胺和烷氧基部分,例如乙氧基或醚键。单羧酸酯包括式R'COOR的醇和/或酸的酯,其中R'和R独立地表示烷基或链烯基,并且R'和R中的碳原子之和至少为10,优选至少为20。
具体实例包括,例如,具有约10至约22个碳原子的脂族链的脂肪酸的烷基酯和链烯基酯,以及具有约10至约22个碳原子的烷基和/或链烯醇衍生的脂族链的烷基和/或链烯基脂肪醇羧酸酯,具有约12至20个碳原子的脂肪醇的苯甲酸酯。
单羧酸酯不必然需要包含至少一个具有至少10个碳原子的链,只要脂族链碳原子的总数至少为10。实例包括异硬脂酸异丙酯、月桂酸己酯、月桂酸异己酯、棕榈酸异己酯、棕榈酸异丙酯、油酸癸酯、油酸异癸酯、硬脂酸十六烷基酯、硬脂酸癸酯、异硬脂酸异丙酯、己二酸二己基癸酯、乳酸月桂酯、乳酸肉豆蔻酯、乳酸鲸蜡酯、硬脂酸油酯、油酸油酯、肉豆蔻酸油酯、乙酸月桂酯、丙酸鲸蜡酯和己二酸油酯。也可以使用羧酸的二和三烷基和烯基酯。这些包括例如C4至C8二羧酸的酯,例如,琥珀酸、戊二酸、己二酸、己酸、庚酸和辛酸的C7至C22酯(优选C1至C9)。实例包括己二酸二异丙酯、己二酸二异己酯和癸二酸二异丙酯。其他具体实例包括异十六烷基硬脂酰硬脂酸酯和柠檬酸三硬脂酰酯。
多元醇酯包括亚烷基二醇酯,例如,乙二醇单和二脂肪酸酯、二乙二醇单和二脂肪酸酯、聚乙二醇单和二脂肪酸酯、丙二醇单和二脂肪酸酯、聚丙二醇单油酸酯、聚丙二醇单硬脂酸酯、乙氧基化丙二醇单硬脂酸酯、聚甘油聚脂肪酸酯、乙氧基化甘油单硬脂酸酯、1,3-丁二醇单硬脂酸酯、1,3-丁二醇二硬脂酸酯、聚氧乙烯多元醇脂肪酸酯、脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯、聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇脂肪酸酯和甘油单酯、甘油二酯和甘油三酯。
特别优选的脂肪酯是甘油单酯、二酯和三酯,更具体地,甘油和长链羧酸如C7至C22羧酸的单酯、二酯和三酯。多种这些类型的材料可以从植物和动物脂肪和油获得,例如,椰子油、蓖麻油、红花油、葵花油、棉籽油、玉米油、橄榄油、鱼肝油、杏仁油、鳄梨油、棕榈油、芝麻油、花生油、羊毛脂和大豆油。合成油包括三油精和三硬脂精甘油二月桂酸酯。
优选材料的具体实例包括可可脂、棕榈硬脂、葵花油、大豆油和椰子油。油性或脂肪材料适当地以0.05至10,优选0.2至5,更优选约0.5至3重量%的水平存在。
本发明的组合物优选含有不超过3重量%的定型聚合物,更优选低于1重量%的定型聚合物,优选含有低于0.1重量%的定型聚合物,并且最佳地不含定型聚合物。
在含有调理剂的头发处理组合物中,优选还存在阳离子聚合物。
辅助剂
本发明的组合物还可包含适用于毛发护理的辅助剂。通常这些成分单独地以总组合物的最多2,优选最多1重量%的水平包含。
合适的毛发护理辅助剂包括:
(i)天然发根营养素,例如氨基酸和糖。合适的氨基酸的实例包括精氨酸、半胱氨酸、谷氨酰胺、谷氨酸、异亮氨酸、亮氨酸、甲硫氨酸、丝氨酸和缬氨酸,和/或其前体和衍生物。可以单独、以混合物或以肽(例如,二肽和三肽)的形式添加氨基酸。也可以蛋白质水解物(例如,角蛋白或胶原蛋白水解物)的形式添加氨基酸。合适的糖是葡萄糖、右旋糖和果糖。这些可以单独添加或以例如水果提取物的形式添加。包含在本发明组合物中的天然发根营养素的特别优选组合是异亮氨酸和葡萄糖。特别优选的氨基酸营养物是精氨酸。
(ii)毛发纤维有益剂。例如:神经酰胺,用于纤维保湿和保持角质层完整性。神经酰胺可从天然来源通过提取获得,或作为合成神经酰胺和假神经酰胺获得。优选的神经酰胺是来自Quest的Ceramide II。神经酰胺的混合物也可能是合适的,例如来自Laboratoires Serobiologiques的Ceramides LS。
次要成分
该组合物还可以包含用于提高性能和/或消费者接受性的其他成分。这些成分包括香料(包封的或游离的或两者)、着色剂、染料和颜料、珠光剂或遮光剂、粘度调节剂、稳定剂和防腐剂。合适的防腐剂体系包含苯甲酸钠和水杨酸钠,使用氢氧化钠和柠檬酸H2O调节pH。包含甲醛的可选的防腐***包含:MIT和DMDM乙内酰脲。
产品形式
毛发护理组合物可以合适地为洗发剂、调理剂、发胶、摩丝、凝胶、发蜡或洗剂。特别优选的产品形式是洗发剂、洗后调理剂(免洗型和洗去型)和头发处理产品如头发精华素。优选洗去产品,特别优选洗发剂。
优选地,组合物不含或基本上不含头发定型聚合物。
该组合物优选配制成用于处理头发和随后漂洗的组合物。
特别优选的毛发护理组合物是洗发剂组合物。本发明的洗发剂组合物中表面活性剂(包括任何辅助表面活性剂和/或任何乳化剂)的总量通常为组合物的5至30重量%,优选10至25重量%,更优选15至20重量%。
现在将参考以下非限制性实施例进一步描述本发明。
实施例
实施例
A.胶囊的制备
使用以下材料制备胶囊。材料细节和制备方法概述如下。
材料参考 | 化学名称 |
IDI | 异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯 |
DETA | 二乙基三胺 |
Mowiol 8-88 | 聚(乙烯醇) |
苯甲酸丙酯 | 苯甲酸丙酯 |
吡罗克酮 | 吡罗克酮 |
Tween-40 | 聚氧乙烯脱水山梨糖醇单棕榈酸酯 |
甲醇 | 甲醇 |
牛磺酸 | 牛磺酸 |
制备方法I
制备以下溶液:
溶液A:0.4g Mowiol 8-88在39.6g去矿物质水中的溶液。
溶液B:吡罗克酮(0.225g)、苯甲酸丙酯(2.25g)和异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯(0.45g)。
溶液C:在去矿物质水(1mL)中的10%DETA。
将溶液A加入60mL玻璃广口瓶中。将溶液B加入到广口瓶中,然后用IKA ultraturrax T25 basic以设置1在11,000rpm下均质化2分钟(在该时间内轻轻涡旋广口瓶本身以帮助均质化)。滴加溶液C,同时轻轻搅拌。将乳液在室温下温和搅拌1h,然后在35℃下搅拌5h,然后冷却。
制备方法II
制备以下溶液:
溶液A:0.4g Mowiol 8-88在39.6g去矿物质水中的溶液。
溶液B:吡罗克酮(0.225g)、苯甲酸丙酯(2.25g)和异佛尔酮二异氰酸酯(0.45g)。
溶液C:去矿质水(1mL)中的10%DETA。
溶液D:去矿物质水(1mL)中的2%牛磺酸。
将溶液A加入60mL玻璃广口瓶中。将溶液B加入到广口瓶中,然后用IKA ultraturrax T25 basic以设置1在11,000rpm下均质化2分钟(在该时间内轻轻涡旋广口瓶本身以帮助均质化)。滴加溶液C,同时轻轻搅拌。滴加溶液D,同时轻轻搅拌。将乳液在室温下温和搅拌1h,然后在35℃下搅拌5h,然后冷却。
B.用于测定干燥时胶囊塌陷的方法
形成胶囊的致密包装膜,并使用具有交叉偏振滤光器的亮场模式的显微镜湿成像,其给出完全黑色的图像,因为没有光被晶体偏振。在干燥时,破裂或塌陷的胶囊释放结晶的吡罗克酮,从而呈现白色。这些图像的二元分析给出了白和黑的%覆盖率,这可以推断干样品中塌陷胶囊的比例。
在imagej软件上运行以下程序以进行该二元区域分析。
1.打开图像
2.图像>类型>8位
3.过程>二进制>选项-检查黑色背景
4.图像>调整>阈值-(确保白色和黑色区域正确对应于偏振。)
5.编辑>选择>创建选择
6.分析测量(这给出了以像素计的白色区域)
7.白色像素/总像素=塌陷%。
实施例 | 实施例A | 实施例1 |
塌陷,% | 84.48 | 3.36 |
这些结果表明牛磺酸的存在可以减少干燥时微胶囊的塌陷,并因此减少吡罗克酮的释放。
C.用于测定在表面活性剂溶液中胶囊的吡罗克酮释放的方法
制备以下溶液:
溶液A;加入到95mL甲醇中的5mL水。
制备校准曲线:
在100mL容量瓶中,将0.0562g吡罗克酮溶于溶液A中。通过在10mL规模上以56.2、44.96、33.72、22.48、11.24、5.62、2.81、1.40μg/mL的浓度连续稀释制备用于校准曲线的样品。在λmax=303nm处测量每种溶液的吸光度。
吡罗克酮浓度,mg/mL | 吸光度(303nm) |
56.2 | 1.706708 |
44.96 | 1.3673724 |
33.72 | 1.0280368 |
22.48 | 0.6887012 |
11.24 | 0.3493656 |
5.62 | 0.1796978 |
2.81 | 0.0948639 |
1.4 | 0.052296 |
校准曲线确定为Abs 300nm=0.03019[吡罗克酮]-0.01003
胶囊泄漏的测量
合成后立即获取1mL微胶囊分散体并加入到8mL琥珀色小瓶中。向其中加入5mL的1w/w%TWEEN-40溶液并将小瓶密封48小时。48小时后,用0.45μm PTFE注射器式过滤器过滤分散体,并将100uL加入到900uL溶液A中。
使用Cary 60UV-vis分光光度计在303nm下通过UV-vis分光光度法分析该溶液。将吸光度结果转化为浓度(mg/mL,通过此处未报告的校准曲线)和通过除以总吡罗克酮的浓度(5.62mg/mL)得到%泄漏。
实施例 | 实施例A | 实施例1 |
泄漏,% | 1.2 | 1.28 |
实施例2
实施例2是根据本发明的洗发剂组合物。
成分 | 重量% |
SLES | 14.00 |
Carbopol 980 | 0.60 |
Tego甜菜碱(CAPB) | 1.60 |
硅酮DC1788 | 2.20 |
瓜尔胶羟丙基氯化物 | 0.20 |
香料和次要成分 | 2.35 |
根据实施例1的包封吡罗克酮 | 0.3 |
水 | 至100 |
Claims (15)
1.一种具有液体核芯和外壳的核壳微胶囊,其中所述液体核芯包含溶剂和吡罗克酮化合物,并且所述壳包含含有氨基磺酸的聚脲。
2.根据权利要求1所述的核壳微胶囊,其中所述聚脲壳还包含异氰酸酯和胺。
3.根据权利要求2所述的核壳微胶囊,其中所述异氰酸酯是脂族异氰酸酯。
4.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的核壳微胶囊,其中所述氨基磺酸是牛磺酸。
5.根据权利要求2-4中任一项所述的核壳微胶囊,其中所述氨基磺酸在制备过程中以相对于异氰酸酯至少0.1wt%,优选相对于异氰酸酯至少1wt%和最优选相对于异氰酸酯至少5wt%的水平添加。
6.根据权利要求3-5中任一项所述的核壳微胶囊,其中所述脂族异氰酸酯是环状的。
7.根据权利要求3-5中任一项所述的核壳微胶囊,其中所述脂族异氰酸酯是支化的。
8.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的核壳微胶囊,其中所述溶剂包含芳族化合物。
9.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的核壳微胶囊,其中在所述壳微胶囊中溶剂与吡罗克酮化合物的比率为至少11:1。
10.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的微胶囊,其中所述壳具有固定在其外表面的沉积助剂,所述沉积助剂增加所述微胶囊在头皮和/或头发,特别是发根上的沉积和保留。
11.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的微胶囊,其中所述沉积助剂是阳离子聚合物。
12.根据前述权利要求中任一项所述的微胶囊,其中所述壳是通过界面聚合制备的。
13.一种毛发护理组合物,其包含表面活性剂和总组合物的至少0.05重量%的如前述权利要求中任一项所述的核壳微胶囊。
14.根据权利要求13所述的毛发护理组合物,其中吡罗克酮化合物的水平为总组合物的0.01至1.0重量%。
15.根据权利要求13-14中任一项所述的毛发护理组合物,其中所述毛发护理组合物是去头屑洗发剂。
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BR112022002286A2 (pt) | 2022-04-26 |
US20220331227A1 (en) | 2022-10-20 |
AR119892A1 (es) | 2022-01-19 |
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