CN113925824B

CN113925824B - Relief repair composition and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN113925824B
Application number: CN202111352026.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 苏晋峰; 李菊兰; 曹冬妮; 邓伟健; 刘立侠; 陈嘉欣
Original assignee: Youyan Dermatology Research Guangzhou Co ltd
Current assignee: Youyan Dermatology Research Guangzhou Co ltd
Priority date: 2021-11-15
Filing date: 2021-11-15
Publication date: 2023-05-09
Anticipated expiration: 2041-11-15
Also published as: CN113925824A

Abstract

The invention discloses a soothing and repairing composition and a preparation method thereof, and belongs to the technical field of cosmetics. The product provided by the invention can effectively relieve and inhibit skin sensitivity discomfort caused by multiple factors aiming at multiple targets by compounding various natural plant efficacy components, so that the skin is restored to a healthy state from inside to outside; in addition, the product can effectively improve the water content of skin and the skin elasticity; the obtained product has high stability, and no need of adding other preservative components, thereby further reducing the irritation of the product to skin. The invention also discloses a preparation method of the soothing and repairing composition and application of the soothing and repairing composition in preparation of anti-allergic and soothing skin care products.

Description

Relief repair composition and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of cosmetics, in particular to a soothing and repairing composition and a preparation method thereof.

Background

As the largest organ of human body, the skin has important protection function to human body. However, since the skin is in contact with the external environment at any time, various kinds of irritation (such as bacterial invasion, sun exposure, etc.) are received, and various skin problems are easily generated during the stress.

The sensitive muscle refers to a high reaction state of skin under physiological or pathological conditions, mainly occurs on the face, and clinically presents subjective symptoms such as burning, stinging, itching, tightness and the like, with or without objective signs such as erythema, scales, telangiectasia and the like, when the skin is stimulated by physical, chemical, mental and other factors. The proportion of sensitive muscles and allergic people has also grown rapidly and continuously in recent years with factors such as recent technological development and exacerbation of environmental deterioration.

Most of the products which are currently on the market and claim the effect of relieving sensitive muscles are mainly used for blocking inflammation by adding various anti-sensitive components, and the products can temporarily eliminate uncomfortable feelings such as itching and the like when being used, but only release of inflammatory factors is inhibited to relieve symptoms mechanically, and the acting path is relatively single. In addition, the pharmacological treatment-based product has very weak repairing and nursing effects on skin, can only solve the appearance problems of the skin, and can not restore the healthy state of the skin by radically adjusting the barrier function and microecological balance. For example, common skin problems-skin itch is classified into common type itch, which is generally caused by dry weather in autumn and winter or low moisture content of skin, and allergic type itch, which is caused by skin contact with allergens; however, with respect to pruritus caused by the general type, the problem cannot be fundamentally solved by simply adding an anti-inflammatory component.

Therefore, the research on the skin care product with multiple mechanism comfort and repair effects is of great significance in relieving skin problems and promoting the comprehensive recovery of the skin.

Disclosure of Invention

Based on the shortcomings of the prior art, the invention aims to provide a soothing and repairing composition, which is used for repairing and relieving various passages and targets through different production mechanisms (such as reduced barrier function, enhanced nerve signal transmission, increased inflammation and vascular reaction, skin microecological imbalance, externally caused oxidative stress reaction and the like) of sensitive skin according to the routes of soothing (analgesia, itching relieving and inflammation diminishing), repairing (strengthening skin barrier) and maintaining (restoring skin microecological balance and reducing percutaneous water loss), and the skin after use is in a healthy state from inside to outside; in addition, the product has excellent moisturizing effect, and can effectively improve the moisture content of skin and increase the skin elasticity.

In order to achieve the above purpose, the invention adopts the following technical scheme:

a soothing and repairing composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.1 to 2 percent of anti-allergic efficacy agent, 0.5 to 2 percent of inonotus obliquus (INONOTUS OBLIQUUS) extract, 0.2 to 5 percent of norway spruce (PICEA EXCELSA) leaf extract, 0.1 to 2 percent of Italian chamomile (HELICHRYSUM ITALICUM) extract, 0.1 to 1 percent of kava (PIPER METHYSTICUM) extract, 0.25 to 5 percent of gentiana SCABRA extract, 0.25 to 2 percent of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate and the balance of solvent; the antiallergic agent comprises hydroxy phenyl propionamide benzoic acid.

Preferably, the components of the anti-allergic agent further comprise at least one of 1, 2-pentanediol, ascorbyl palmitate and butanediol.

More preferably, the antiallergic agent comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 25 to 50 percent of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 to 5 percent of hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, 0.1 percent of ascorbyl palmitate and the balance of butanediol.

Among the components of the soothing and repairing composition, the hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid contained in the anti-allergic efficacy agent has remarkable antipruritic, red dispelling and detumescence effects, and after the preferable proportion of the solvent and the efficacy components is adopted, the 1, 2-pentanediol and the butanediol are compounded to dissolve the functional components, and the ascorbyl palmitate can play an antioxidant role, so that the compounded material has more stable properties and can play a role in cooperation with other components in the soothing and repairing composition.

The inonotus obliquus extract is a wild inonotus obliquus extract, has higher antioxidant capacity than vitamin C, has high polyphenol content, has excellent anti-inflammatory effect, and can improve sensitive muscle symptoms and strengthen skin barrier when applied to skin care products.

The Norway spruce leaf extract has rich fragrance of the tree, can endow the product with certain natural plant smell when being used in skin care products, and has the effects of resisting bacteria, relieving, and smoothing and softening skin.

The guayule is called as "permanent flower" and is mostly produced in sunny dunes, and is often used for preparing essential oil or extract for cosmetics or skin care products, while the guayule extract is mainly used as an antioxidant and an anti-inflammatory agent, and has obvious effects of anti-inflammation and skin relief (the active ingredient can promote the release of beta-endorphin); in addition, the component has antibacterial and mite-killing effects, and has rich effects.

The kava extract comprises the leaf/root/stem extract of kava, has the effects of easing pain, resisting bacteria, resisting inflammation and relieving skin, is widely applied to nutritional supplements and herbal preparations in Europe and America, mainly contains kavalactone, kavalanone and other functional compounds, and is commonly used as skin conditioning agents in the field of cosmetic skin care products.

The gentian extract has good activation effect on luciferase, which shows that the gentian extract has remarkable inhibition effect on specific allergy (or itch) of skin and is used for relieving itching and swelling caused by allergic muscles; in addition, the component has an effect of regulating the estrogen level of local skin, and shows a certain skin anti-aging effect; has effect in promoting secretion of epidermal cell cholesterol (skin softening component), and can also be used for effectively lubricating skin and improving skin elasticity.

The lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate is a product obtained by fermenting soybean milk under the action of lactobacillus, is rich in various nutritional ingredients such as amino acid, polypeptide, vitamin and the like, and can not only endow the product with soft touch when being applied to skin care products, but also effectively relieve sensitive skin, repair skin barrier and maintain microecological balance on the skin surface.

Through the compounding of the natural plant efficacy components, the obtained product can effectively relieve and inhibit skin sensitivity discomfort (symptoms such as itching, red swelling, fever, dryness and the like) caused by multiple factors aiming at multiple targets (inhibiting inflammatory factor release, avoiding excessive activation of TRPV1 receptors and the like), so that the skin is restored to a healthy state from inside to outside; in addition, the product can also effectively improve the water content and the skin elasticity of the skin after being used.

Preferably, the solvent is butanediol.

The inventor finds that each group of functional components in the soothing and repairing composition is divided into an oil-soluble component and a water-soluble component, when butanediol is used as a solubilization solvent, the two functional components with different polarities can be effectively and stably stored in the same system, no precipitation phenomenon occurs in the later stage, secondary solubilization is not needed, and the convenience is high; the antibacterial capability of the obtained product can be effectively ensured by compounding the butanediol with other plant extracts and other components, and other preservative components are not required to be additionally added, so that the irritation of the product to the skin is further reduced.

Preferably, the inonotus obliquus extract, norway spruce leaf extract, italian chamomile extract, kava pepper extract, gentian extract or lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate contains a compound solvent for dissolving the active substances in addition to the active substances, wherein the compound solvent comprises at least one of water, glycerin, butanediol and 1, 2-pentanediol.

The components of the soothing and repairing composition can be directly selected from natural plant extracts or processed products, or can be selected from secondary products obtained by further compounding the functional components with solvents, and cosmetics or skin care products applied to different parts and different preservation environments can be prepared through compounding of the single-element/multi-element solvents according to actual production requirements, so that long-term stability and effectiveness of the products are ensured.

Preferably, the soothing and repairing composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 0.8 to 1.2 percent of anti-allergic efficacy agent, 0.8 to 1.2 percent of inonotus obliquus extract, 2.5 to 3.5 percent of Norway spruce leaf extract, 0.8 to 1.2 percent of Italian chamomile extract, 0.5 to 0.7 percent of kava pepper extract, 1.5 to 2.5 percent of gentian extract, 0.8 to 1.2 percent of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate and the balance of butanediol;

more preferably, the soothing and repairing composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1% of an antiallergic agent, 1% of an inonotus obliquus extract, 3% of a norway spruce leaf extract, 1% of an italian chamomile extract, 0.6% of a kava pepper extract, 2% of a gentian extract, 1% of a lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate and the balance of butanediol.

The inventor screens the formula for multiple times, and the soothing and repairing composition obtained by the preferable formula has the optimal anti-allergic and soothing effects and the optimal moisturizing effect and skin elasticity increasing effect.

It is still another object of the present invention to provide a method for preparing the soothing and repairing composition, comprising the steps of:

the anti-allergic efficacy agent, the inonotus obliquus extract, the norway spruce leaf extract, the italian chamomile extract, the kava extract, the gentian extract, the lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate and the solvent are mixed and stirred uniformly according to the proportion to form transparent liquid, and the relief repair composition is obtained.

The preparation method of the soothing and repairing composition has simple operation steps, low equipment requirement and realization of industrialized mass production.

Preferably, the stirring speed is 20-60 rpm, and the stirring time is 5-10 min.

It is a further object of the present invention to provide the use of said soothing composition for the preparation of anti-allergic soothing skin care products.

The invention has the beneficial effects that: the invention provides a soothing and repairing composition, which can effectively relieve and inhibit skin sensitivity discomfort caused by multiple factors aiming at multiple surface targets through the compounding of multiple natural plant efficacy components, so that the skin is recovered to a healthy state from inside to outside; in addition, the product can effectively improve the water content of skin and the skin elasticity; the obtained product has high stability, and no need of adding other preservative components, thereby further reducing the irritation of the product to skin. The invention also provides a preparation method of the soothing and repairing composition and application of the soothing and repairing composition in preparation of anti-allergic and soothing skin care products.

Detailed Description

The objects, technical solutions and advantages of the present invention will be further described with reference to specific examples, which are intended to be illustrative of the contents of the present invention in detail, not limiting the present invention.

Examples 1 to 5

Examples of the soothing repair composition of the present invention the formulation of the soothing repair composition in each example is shown in table 1.

The anti-allergic efficacy agent comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 30-40% of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1-5% of hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, 0.1% of ascorbyl palmitate and the balance of solvent;

the inonotus obliquus extract comprises the following components in percentage by mass: (pure plant extract) Inonotus obliquus extract 0.8-1.2%, glycerin 80% and the balance water;

the Norway spruce leaf extract is a commercially available pure plant Norway spruce leaf extract product;

the italian chamomile extract comprises the following components in percentage by mass: glycerol 1%, water 98.9% and (pure plant extract) guayule extract 0.1%;

the kava pepper extract comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 54.45% of water, 44.55% of butanediol and 1.0% of kava extract (pure plant extract);

the gentian extract comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 45% of water, 50% of butanediol and 5% of gentian extract (pure plant extract);

the lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 78% of water, 10% of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate (filtrate obtained by fermenting and processing pure lactobacillus and soybean milk), 10% of butanediol and 2% of 1, 2-pentanediol;

the solvent is butanediol.

The preparation method of the soothing and repairing composition comprises the following steps of:

mixing the antiallergic agent, the inonotus obliquus extract, the Norway spruce leaf extract, the Italian chamomile extract, the kava pepper extract, the gentian extract, the lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate and the solvent according to a proportion, and stirring at a speed of 20-60 rpm for 5-10 min until the mixture is uniformly transparent, thus obtaining the soothing and repairing composition.

TABLE 1

Raw materials (%) total 100%	Example 1	Example 2	Example 3	Example 4	Example 5
						Antiallergic agent	0.80	1.00	0.10	2.00	1.50
Inonotus obliquus extract	0.50	1.00	1.30	2.00	0.80
						Norway spruce leaf extract	1.00	3.00	5.00	0.20	0.60
Italian chamomile extract	0.60	1.00	0.10	2.00	1.60
						Kava pepper extract	0.10	0.60	0.40	1.00	0.50
Gentian extract	1.00	2.00	0.25	5.00	3.50
						Lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate	1.20	1.00	0.25	2.00	0.80
Butanediol (butanediol)	Allowance of	Allowance of	Allowance of	Allowance of	Allowance of

Comparative examples 1 to 4

Comparative examples of soothing compositions according to the present invention, the products of each comparative example differ from the products of examples 1 to 5 only in the formulation shown in Table 2, and the preparation method of the products is the same as examples 1 to 5.

TABLE 2

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Comparative example 5

The only difference between this comparative example and example 1 is that the norway spruce leaf extract was replaced by a commercially available purslane extract (pure plant extract) with an equivalent added content.

Comparative example 6

The only difference between this comparative example and example 1 is that the antiallergic agent was replaced with a commercially available centella asiatica extract (pure plant extract) of the same additive content.

Effect example 1

To verify the stability of the products of the soothing composition obtained according to the invention, a series of stability tests were carried out on the products obtained in each example and comparative example:

(1) The pH of the products obtained in examples and comparative examples was measured at normal temperature after mixing and dilution with water in a volume ratio=1:10, respectively.

(2) The products obtained in the examples and the comparative examples were subjected to heat resistance, cold resistance and thermal cycle tests under the following conditions: (a) Respectively preserving heat for 3 months at 48+/-2 ℃, and performing physicochemical test after recovering room temperature; (b) Respectively preserving heat for 3 months at-15+/-2 ℃, and performing physicochemical test after recovering room temperature; (c) Respectively and sequentially preserving heat at 48 ℃ and normal temperature and-15 ℃ for 24 hours, circulating for three times according to the sequence, and carrying out physicochemical test after the room temperature is recovered, wherein the test method is QB/T2660. The results are shown in Table 3 after testing.

TABLE 3 Table 3

As can be seen from Table 3, the soothing and repairing composition provided by the invention is slightly acidic, has a faint yellow transparent liquid appearance, does not generate turbidity or precipitation phenomenon under different temperature environments, and has higher stability under a system without adding a preservative; in contrast, the products obtained in comparative examples 1 to 6 exhibited a decrease in transparency or precipitation in different environmental tests, and were not stable enough.

Effect example 2

In order to verify the use effect of the soothing and repairing composition, the products obtained in the examples and the comparative examples are subjected to an anti-allergic and soothing effect test, and the use effect of the composition on various sensitive muscle symptoms is verified:

group of subjects: 120 volunteers, each volunteer has different degrees of sunburn on the face, are randomly divided into 10 groups of the same people, and respectively correspond to the products of the tested examples and the comparative examples by taking the groups as units, and are called test groups; the remaining group was treated with a commercially available anti-inflammatory antipruritic plaster as a control group.

The testing method comprises the following steps: all volunteers apply the test samples to the whole face at an amount of 1+/-0.05 g/time according to the corresponding groups, and use the samples for 14 days each time in the morning and evening continuously without using other skin care products or products with similar efficacy; after the use, the curative effect of the product is evaluated by adopting a scoring system, the improvement condition of various symptoms (including red swelling, burning sensation, tingling sensation, itching and dryness, and 5 symptoms are not scored if the symptoms are absent) is adopted, the score is 5 minutes full, the higher the score is, the better the effect of relieving and repairing the symptoms is, the average score is calculated after the highest score and the lowest score are removed from each group, and the comprehensive effect of the statistical test sample is calculated by the average score of each symptom.

The test results are shown in Table 4.

TABLE 4 Table 4

As can be seen from Table 4, the soothing and repairing composition has very excellent anti-allergic and soothing effects, can effectively relieve and inhibit redness, burning sensation, tingling sensation, itching and dryness phenomena of sensitive muscles, and is far superior to the existing products of the same type and obtained in comparative examples 1-6; among them, the total evaluation of the soothing composition obtained in example 2 was the highest.

(2) Skin moisturizing and moisturizing conditions

In addition to the anti-allergy soothing effect, the products obtained in examples and comparative examples were also subjected to a moisture retention degree test after direct use.

The testing method comprises the following steps: the skin moisture content of the face of the subject before and after the test (1) was measured by using a skin moisture loss measuring instrument Vapometer (model: SWL5201, delfin, finland), and the skin moisture loss of the subject before and after the use was compared with the TEWL parameters. Wherein Δtewl= (TEWL) ₁ -TEWL ₂ )/TEWL ₁ ×100％，TEWL ₁ TEWL is the test value before the product is not used ₂ For the test values after use of the product, the larger the resulting Δtewl value, the greater the reduction in transdermal water loss after use of the product by the test skin, the better the barrier repair and moisturizing effect of the product.

The average value was recorded and calculated for each group, and the results are shown in table 5.

TABLE 5

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As shown in table 5, the soothing and repairing compositions obtained in examples 1 to 5 not only have the anti-allergy and soothing effects, but also can significantly improve the moisturizing effect of the skin and repair the skin water retention barrier, and the percutaneous water retention rate of each product is more than 35%; in contrast, commercial products with anti-inflammatory efficacy clearly do not have significant moisturizing efficacy, and the moisturizing efficacy of the products obtained in comparative examples 1-6 is also significantly less than that of the examples.

(3) Improvement of skin elasticity

Similar to the skin moisturizing test, the skin elasticity values R2 before and after the use of the test parts were respectively tested by using a skin elasticity tester (model: MPA580, germany CK company) before and after the use of the sample, the degree of change in skin elasticity was evaluated based on the difference in the values before and after the skin elasticity values, Δr2=r2 (after use) R2 (before use), and the greater the Δr2 value, the more the elasticity enhancement.

The test results were averaged for each group and recorded as shown in table 6.

TABLE 6

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As shown by the statistical results in Table 6, similar to the moisturizing effect test, the similar anti-inflammatory products in the prior art have no obvious skin elasticity increasing effect, while the soothing and repairing composition provided by the invention has excellent skin elasticity increasing function, and the skin elasticity increasing value of the soothing and repairing composition is more than 0.3.

Finally, it should be noted that the above embodiments are only for illustrating the technical solution of the present invention and not for limiting the scope of the present invention, and although the present invention has been described in detail with reference to the preferred embodiments, it should be understood by those skilled in the art that the technical solution of the present invention may be modified or substituted equally without departing from the spirit and scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. The soothing and repairing composition is characterized by comprising the following components in percentage by mass: 0.8 to 1.2 percent of anti-allergic efficacy agent, 0.8 to 1.2 percent of inonotus obliquus extract, 2.5 to 3.5 percent of Norway spruce leaf extract, 0.8 to 1.2 percent of Italian chamomile extract, 0.5 to 0.7 percent of kava pepper extract, 1.5 to 2.5 percent of gentian extract, 0.8 to 1.2 percent of lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate and the balance of butanediol; the anti-allergic efficacy agent comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 25 to 50 percent of 1, 2-pentanediol, 1 to 5 percent of hydroxyphenyl propionamide benzoic acid, 0.1 percent of ascorbyl palmitate and the balance of butanediol.

2. The soothing repair composition of claim 1, wherein the soothing repair composition comprises the following components in percentage by mass: 1% of an antiallergic agent, 1% of an inonotus obliquus extract, 3% of a norway spruce leaf extract, 1% of an italian chamomile extract, 0.6% of a kava pepper extract, 2% of a gentian extract, 1% of a lactobacillus/soybean milk fermentation product filtrate and the balance of butanediol.

3. A process for the preparation of a soothing repair composition according to any one of claims 1 to 2, comprising the steps of:

4. A process for preparing a soothing composition according to claim 3 wherein the stirring is at a rate of 20 to 60rpm for a period of 5 to 10 minutes.

5. Use of a soothing composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 for the preparation of an anti-allergic soothing skin care product.