CN113712872A - Essence emulsion composition containing liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects and preparation method thereof - Google Patents

Essence emulsion composition containing liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects and preparation method thereof Download PDF

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CN113712872A
CN113712872A CN202111126547.2A CN202111126547A CN113712872A CN 113712872 A CN113712872 A CN 113712872A CN 202111126547 A CN202111126547 A CN 202111126547A CN 113712872 A CN113712872 A CN 113712872A
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skin
liposome
whitening
brightening
composition containing
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CN113712872B (en
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杨帆
周紫燕
李沫
郭苗
周正
郭阳
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Hubei Maishite Biotechnology Co Ltd
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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14Liposomes; Vesicles
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/673Vitamin B group
    • A61K8/675Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9706Algae
    • A61K8/9722Chlorophycota or Chlorophyta [green algae], e.g. Chlorella
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59Mixtures
    • A61K2800/592Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

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Abstract

The invention discloses an essence emulsion composition containing liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects and a preparation method thereof. The essence milk composition comprises the following raw material components: 1.0-45.0% of liposome with the effects of brightening and whitening skin, 5.0-40.0% of emollient, 0.5-30.0% of emulsifier, 0.5-20.0% of filler, 0.1-10.0% of thickening agent, 0.3-5.0% of preservative, 0.01-5% of pH regulator, 0.01-1.0% of essence for daily use and the balance of deionized water. The liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects comprises the following main effective components: white willow bark extract, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, nicotinamide, and Codium spinulosum extract. A plurality of different functional components are delivered together through the liposome in a transdermal way, so that the whitening synergy of multiple effects and multiple targets can be realized in the aspects of inhibiting the generation, the transportation, the metabolism and the like of melanin.

Description

Essence emulsion composition containing liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects and preparation method thereof
Technical Field
The invention relates to a skin care product and a preparation method thereof, belongs to the technical field of daily chemicals, and particularly relates to an essence emulsion composition of liposome with skin whitening and brightening effects and a preparation method thereof.
Background
At present, people's pursuit of whitening is never stopped, and whitening can prevent skin from being dark and enables the skin to become fresh and transparent, just like a sentence of ' white covering ugly '. Although the skin of a person can be whitened temporarily by cosmetics such as a make-up cream, a foundation, a loose powder and the like, the skin of the person is preferably white, so that the burden of the cosmetics on the skin can be reduced. How to effectively whiten and care skin is a problem which is continuously explored at present.
Recently, many companies have developed some whitening and skin care product compositions to achieve whitening effects by interfering with the production, transportation and accumulation of melanin. However, most of the currently marketed functional cosmetic products have single functional components or have large difference of physical and chemical properties of different added functional components, so that the problems of poor compatibility and poor transdermal absorption are caused. When the functional components are difficult to enter target sites and target cells to act, the skin brightening and whitening effect of the product is not ideal.
How to scientifically design the transdermal co-delivery of different whitening functional components to achieve the multi-effect and multi-target whitening and skin-brightening synergistic effect is a technical problem which needs to be solved urgently by technical personnel in the field.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide an essence emulsion composition containing liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects, which can achieve the effects of brightening and whitening skin and is greatly favored by consumers.
The invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin-brightening and whitening effects.
The essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects comprises the following components in parts by weight:
1.0-45.0% of skin-brightening and whitening efficacy liposome, which comprises the following main efficacy components: 0.1-10% of white willow bark extract, 0.1-10% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.1-5% of nicotinamide, 0.2-10% of Codium spinulosum extract;
5.0-40.0% of an emollient;
0.5-30.0% of emulsifier;
0.5-20.0% of a filler;
0.1-10.0% of a thickening agent;
0.3-5.0% of preservative;
0.01-5% of pH regulator;
0.01-1.0% of daily essence;
the balance being deionized water.
Preferably, the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin-lightening and whitening effects comprises the following components in percentage by weight of the total composition:
2.0-25.0% of the liposome with the effects of brightening and whitening skin comprises the following main effective components: 0.2-5% white willow bark extract, 0.2-8% undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.5-5% nicotinamide, 0.25-5% spiny algae extract;
5.0-30.0% of an emollient;
0.5-25.0% of emulsifier;
0.5-15.0% of a filler;
0.5-10.0% of a thickening agent;
0.3-4.0% of preservative;
0.05-4% of pH regulator;
0.01-0.5% of daily essence;
the balance being deionized water.
Preferably, the skin-lightening and whitening efficacy liposome formula comprises the following components in percentage by weight of the total weight of the essence emulsion composition:
0.5-3.5% white willow bark extract; 0.2-4% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine; 0.5-3.5% niacinamide; 0.5-4% of Codium spinulosum extract.
Most preferably, the composition is composed of the following components by weight of the total weight of the essence milk composition:
4.0-18.0% of skin-lightening and whitening liposome, which comprises the following main functional components: 0.5-3.5% of white willow bark extract, 0.2-4% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.5-3.5% of nicotinamide, 0.5-4% of Botrytis spinosa extract;
5.0-20.0% of an emollient;
0.5-10.0% of emulsifier;
0.5-10.0% of a filler;
0.5-8.0% of a thickening agent;
0.3-1.0% of preservative;
0.1-4% of pH regulator;
0.01-0.1% of daily essence;
the balance being deionized water.
Preferably, the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin-lightening and whitening effects comprises the following components in percentage by weight of the total composition:
5.0-8.0% of skin-brightening and whitening efficacy liposome, which comprises the following main efficacy components: 1-3.5% of white willow bark extract, 0.5-3% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 1-3% of nicotinamide, and 1-3% of Codium spinulosum extract;
8.0-18.0% of an emollient;
1-5.0% of an emulsifier;
0.5-5.0% of a filler;
0.5-5.0% of a thickening agent;
0.3-4.0% of preservative;
0.1-1.2% of pH regulator;
0.1-0.5% of daily essence;
the balance being deionized water.
Specifically, the ratio of the main functional components in the liposome with the skin-lightening and whitening effects is selected from: undecylenoyl phenylalanine: nicotinamide: white willow bark extract: the codium spiniferum extract is prepared from 1: 1: 1: 1 to 1: 4: 5: 5.
specifically, the preparation method of the liposome with the skin-brightening and whitening effects comprises the following steps:
1) fully dissolving 1-5 g of phospholipid in 5-50 mL of ethanol, stirring until the phospholipid is fully dissolved, transferring to a rotary evaporator, and evaporating at low temperature to remove ethanol to form a uniform phospholipid membrane on the bottom surface of a container;
2) stirring and uniformly mixing 20-50 mL of phosphoric acid buffer solution and the whitening functional component;
3) transferring the mixed solution in the step 2) to a container of a rotary evaporator to carry out water treatment on the phospholipid film, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 3-5 minutes after the film completely falls off, thereby obtaining the skin-brightening and whitening liposome with small particle size.
Preferably, the membrane material such as phospholipid is selected from one of soybean phospholipid, lecithin and cephalin; the particle size of the skin-brightening and whitening effect liposome is between 0.1 and 1 micron.
Preferably, the skin-lightening and whitening effect liposome-containing essence emulsion composition has an emollient selected from one or more of caprylic/capric triglyceride, squalane, avocado oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, glycerin, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, PEG-11 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, phytosterol/octyldodecyl lauroyl glutamic acid, hydrogenated polyisobutene, rapeseed oil, polydecene, soybean oil, olive oil, isododecane, isohexadecane, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. The content is selected from the range of 5-40%, preferably 15-40%, most preferably 15-35%.
The emulsifier is selected from one or more of olive oil PEG-7 esters, PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides, sorbitan olive oleate, polysorbate-20, laureth-23, PEG-40 stearate, steareth-21, palmityl alcohol and PEG-75 stearate and a mixture of glyceryl stearate and steareth-20, polysorbate-80, soya lecithin PC60, a mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-75 stearate, poloxamer 407, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate and ceteareth-25. The content is selected from the range of 0.5-30%, preferably 0.5-25%, most preferably 5-25%.
The filler is selected from one or more of titanium dioxide, mica, boron nitride, polymethylsilsesquioxane, diatomite, kaolin, cellulose acetate, starch octyl aluminum succinate, talcum powder, barium sulfate and volcanic ash. The content is selected from the range of 0.5-20%, preferably from the range of 0.5-15%, and most preferably from the range of 0.5% -10%.
The thickening agent is selected from one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/copolymer, polymer EMT-10, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylic ester/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, polyethylene, gum arabic and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate. The content is selected from the range of 0.1-10%, preferably from the range of 0.5-10%, and most preferably from 0.5-8%.
The preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, pentanediol, hexanediol, jasmone, sodium benzoate, triclosan and chlorphenesin.
The pH regulator is selected from one or more of lactic acid and arginine.
Specifically, the essential emulsion composition of the liposome with the skin-lightening and whitening effects has a pH value within a range of 4-10, preferably a pH value within a range of 5-8, and most preferably a pH value within a range of 5-7.
Specifically, the essential emulsion composition of the liposome with the skin-lightening and whitening effects can be in a solvent dispersion or suspension mode, can also be in an emulsified particle mode, or can be in a polymer-coated mode.
Specifically, the essence emulsion composition of the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects is a skin care product and can be used for products such as essence emulsion, essence liquid, essence oil and the like.
Specifically, the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects comprises the following main effective components: undecylenoyl phenylalanine, nicotinamide, white willow bark extract, and Codium spinulosum extract.
(ii) undecylenoyl phenylalanine
Undecylenoyl phenylalanine is a melanotropin (alpha-MSH) receptor antagonist, and effectively inhibits the activity of tyrosinase by competitively binding to melanin-stimulating hormone receptor MC1-R on melanocytes, thereby reducing melanin production. The undecylenoyl phenylalanine can block alpha-MSH under the concentration of 0.001%, and the optimal use concentration is 1%, so that the production of melanin can be prevented from the source, and the problems of dark yellow skin, melanin deposition and the like can be effectively solved.
(II) Nicotinamide
Niacinamide is also a derivative of vitamin B3. Nicotinamide is a white crystalline powder, slightly or almost odorless, bitter in taste, is vitamin PP, and belongs to azacyclic pyridine derivatives. It is easily soluble in water or ethanol, and soluble in glycerol. The whitening mechanism of niacinamide comprises the following three aspects:
inhibiting the formation of melanin granules; inhibiting the transfer of melanin to keratinocytes; accelerate the transfer of melanin to the stratum corneum in keratinocytes and promote stratum corneum exfoliation.
③ white willow bark extract
The main active ingredients in the white willow bark extract are salicin and glucan, wherein the salicin slowly releases salicylic acid in the digestive tract of a human body, and the salicin is called as natural salicylic acid and has certain effects of resisting inflammation, soothing the allergy, conditioning the cutin, controlling oil, resisting acne and the like. The cutin conditioning effect is that the saligenin can promote epidermal cells to be rapidly renewed after being converted into salicylic acid, and promotes old cutin to be exfoliated, at the moment, the epidermal cells are all fresh and tender cells, melanin is exfoliated along with the old cutin, and the effects of whitening and brightening the skin are achieved naturally.
(iv) Codium spinulosum extract
The Codium spinulosum extract can stimulate the activity of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, promote cell proliferation, accelerate the renewal rate of cells, and promote the metabolism of melanin while the keratinocytes are renewed. In addition, the codiales extract can supplement moisture for the skin, improve the dryness due to water shortage, improve the moisture retention capacity of the skin, improve the dark yellow skin and uneven skin color, improve the softness of skin cells and improve the skin brightness.
By means of the technical scheme, the invention has the following beneficial effects:
1) the inventive skin-brightening and whitening component has the advantages that the white willow bark extract can condition cutin, promote old cutin to peel off and promote cells to renew simultaneously, so that the skin color is lightened; the undecylenoyl phenylalanine can effectively inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, thereby inhibiting the formation of melanin and playing a role in whitening; the nicotinamide can interfere the transportation of melanin to the horny layer and accelerate the metabolism of the melanin horny layer so as to play a whitening role; the Codium spinulosum extract can supplement skin moisture and improve the problems of dark yellow skin and uneven skin color.
2) The white willow bark extract, the undecylenoyl phenylalanine, the nicotinamide and the codium spinulosum extract are compounded for use, the transfer of melanin (the nicotinamide) can be inhibited from the source of melanin generation (the undecylenoyl phenylalanine), the metabolism of the melanin (the white willow bark extract and the codium spinulosum extract) is promoted, the melanin generation is inhibited or the melanin metabolism is promoted in multiple directions, and the four components are compounded and applied to the milk to achieve the synergistic whitening and skin brightening effects.
3) The inventive skin-brightening and whitening liposome can effectively solve the problem of difficult transdermal absorption by wrapping the skin-brightening and whitening active components with the liposome, so that the whitening components can effectively penetrate through the skin and enter a target part to act, and the application range of the whitening components in cosmetics is expanded.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the results of efficacy tests of skin lightening and whitening components;
FIG. 2 is the result of measurement of melanin content in skin after 56 days in example 1;
FIG. 3 is the rate of change of skin melanin after 56 days in example 1;
FIG. 4 is the result of measuring skin glossiness after 56 days in example 1;
FIG. 5 is the skin gloss change rate after 56 days for example 1;
FIG. 6 is the rate of change of skin darkness after 56 days for example 1;
FIG. 7 is the skin brightness change rate after 56 days for example 1;
FIG. 8 is the skin whiteness rate after 56 days in example 1.
Detailed Description
The invention discloses an essence emulsion composition containing liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects. The essential milk composition mainly comprises the following whitening components: white willow bark extract, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, nicotinamide, and Codium juniperi extract, which have effects of brightening skin and whitening skin. Through the preferable combination and efficacy test, the most preferable composition proportion is found to obtain the efficacy of synergy whitening and skin brightening.
The invention can inhibit tyrosinase activity, reduce melanin generation, inhibit melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes, promote old cell shedding, accelerate melanin metabolism and other multi-directional synergistic effects, and has the effects of improving skin glossiness and whitening skin.
The present invention is illustrated by the following examples, which are provided for the purpose of further illustration only and are not intended to limit the scope of the present invention. Other insubstantial modifications and adaptations of the present invention can be made without departing from the scope of the present invention. Unless otherwise specified, the following percentages (%) are mass percentages. All the raw material components used in the invention are commercial products.
Examples 1 to 3
An essence emulsion composition containing liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects comprises the following raw material components in proportion as shown in the following table 1.
TABLE 1 raw material component ratios (% by mass) of examples 1 to 3
Figure BDA0003278965310000071
Example 1 a preparation process of essence emulsion containing liposome having skin-lightening and whitening effects includes the following steps:
1) preparing a liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects: dissolving 1000mg lecithin in 10mL ethanol, stirring to dissolve completely, transferring to a rotary evaporator, slowly evaporating ethanol under 65 deg.C water bath condition to form uniform lecithin membrane on the container wall; stirring and uniformly mixing 20mL of phosphoric acid buffer solution with 665mg of white willow bark extract, 333mg of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 665mg of nicotinamide and 665mg of codium spinulosum extract, transferring the mixed solution into a container of a rotary evaporator to carry out hydration treatment on a lecithin film for 20min, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 3min after the film is completely removed to obtain the skin-lightening and whitening effect liposome; the particle size is 0.1-1 micron.
2) Wetting and completely dispersing the thickening agent in water to obtain a mixed solution;
3) adding emollient, filler, preservative and pH regulator into the mixed solution obtained in step 2), heating to 65 deg.C, homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3min to completely disperse;
4) adding an emulsifier and a daily essence in the step 3), homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3min to completely emulsify, stirring and cooling, and adding the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects to obtain the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects. The pH value is 5.5-6.5.
Example 2 a process for preparing an essence emulsion containing liposomes having skin lightening and whitening effects, comprising the steps of:
1) preparing a liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects: dissolving 1200mg of lecithin in 15mL of ethanol, stirring until the lecithin is fully dissolved, transferring the solution to a rotary evaporator, and slowly evaporating the ethanol under the water bath condition of 65 ℃ to form a uniform lecithin film on the wall of a container; stirring and uniformly mixing 25mL of phosphoric acid buffer solution with 515mg of white willow bark extract, 257mg of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 515mg of nicotinamide and 515mg of codium spiniferum extract, transferring the mixed solution into a container of a rotary evaporator to hydrate a lecithin film for 30min, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 5min after the film is completely removed to obtain the skin-lightening and whitening effect liposome; the particle size is 0.1-1 micron.
2) Wetting and completely dispersing the thickening agent in water to obtain a mixed solution;
3) adding emollient, filler, preservative and pH regulator into the mixed solution obtained in step 2), heating to 65 deg.C, homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3min to completely disperse;
4) adding an emulsifier and a daily essence in the step 3), homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3min to completely emulsify, stirring and cooling, and adding the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects to obtain the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects. The pH value is 5.5-6.5.
Example 3 a preparation process of an essence emulsion containing liposomes having skin lightening and whitening effects, comprising the steps of:
1) preparing a liposome with skin brightening and whitening effects: dissolving 2000mg lecithin in 20mL ethanol, stirring to dissolve completely, transferring to a rotary evaporator, slowly evaporating ethanol in 70 deg.C water bath to form uniform lecithin film on the container wall; uniformly stirring 30mL of phosphoric acid buffer solution, 630mg of white willow bark extract, 315mg of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 630mg of nicotinamide and 630mg of codium spinulosum extract, transferring the mixed solution into a container of a rotary evaporator to carry out hydration treatment on a lecithin film for 25min, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 8 min after the film is completely removed to obtain the skin-lightening and whitening effect liposome; the particle size is 0.1-1 micron.
2) Wetting and completely dispersing the thickening agent in water to obtain a mixed solution;
3) adding emollient, filler, preservative and pH regulator into the mixed solution obtained in step 2), heating to 65 deg.C, homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3min to completely disperse;
4) adding an emulsifier and a daily essence in the step 3), homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3min to completely emulsify, stirring and cooling, and adding the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects to obtain the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects. The pH value is 5.5-6.5.
Test example for Effect verification
1. Safety test
Test samples: example 1;
the test method comprises the following steps: and (4) testing the safety by adopting a third-party detection mechanism. The selection area is not more than 50mm2And a suitable patch device having a depth of about 1mm, wherein about 0.02 to about 0.025ml (g) of the test substance is applied to the patch device in a closed patch test. The patch tester is attached to the curved side of the forearm of the subject, the subject is removed 24h later, the skin reaction is observed 0.5h, 24h and 48h after removal, and the result is recorded according to the skin reaction grading standard in the technical regulation for cosmetic safety 2015.
TABLE 2 Patch test results
Figure BDA0003278965310000091
Figure BDA0003278965310000101
Remarking: grading standard of skin reaction
Level 0: negative reaction;
level 1: carrying out suspicious reaction; only faint erythema;
and 2, stage: weak positive reaction (erythema reaction); erythema, infiltration, edema, and possibly papules;
and 3, level: strong positive reaction (herpes reaction); erythema, infiltration, edema, pimples, herpes; the reaction may be beyond the test area;
4, level: very strong response (fusional herpes response); erythema, severe infiltration, edema, fusional herpes, and response beyond the test area.
As can be seen from table 2 above, the prepared essence milk showed no irritation and passed safety.
2. Stability test
Test samples: example 1;
the test method comprises the following steps: and (5) observing the appearance color, viscosity and pH value for three months according to internal control standard.
Table 3 stability test results
Time 45℃ 40℃ 37℃ 25℃ 5℃ -15℃ CYCLE Illumination of light
1W
2W
3W
4W
2M
3M
From the above table 3, the prepared essence milk has no significant changes in color, viscosity and pH value within three months under high and low temperature or illumination conditions, which indicates that the essence milk has better stability.
3. Skin lightening and whitening component melanin deposition test
Test samples: the skin-lightening and whitening efficacy liposome of example 1;
the test method comprises the following steps: samples were used twice daily, morning and evening, and tried for 12 weeks. Volunteers applied appropriate amounts of test samples to the pigmented areas of their faces. The melanin index (melaninindex) was measured using a Mexameter melanin tester. The results were tested at the following 3 time periods, respectively: before use of the sample (D0), after use of the sample for 56 days (D56), after use of the sample for 84 days (D84).
And (3) testing results:
as shown in FIG. 1, melanin granules (D-Squames) on the surface of the skin are depigmented at the pigmentation sites of the volunteers. At day 56, the melanin index is significantly reduced by 50%, and the brightness is significantly improved by 75%; melanin index was significantly reduced by 68% and brightness was significantly improved by 78% on day 84. The prepared skin-brightening and whitening efficacy component can effectively reduce the deposition of melanin in the skin.
4. Evaluation of whitening effect of essence milk
Test samples: example 1;
the test method comprises the following steps: the samples were used twice daily, morning and evening, and tried for 8 weeks. A random side was smeared with the appropriate amount of test sample and the other side was left without the test sample as a control around the eye. The sunscreen product is applied to the whole face every morning.
The results were tested at the following 4 time periods, respectively: before use of the sample (D0), after use of the sample for 14 days (D14), after use of the sample for 28 days (D28) and after use of the sample for 56 days (D56).
The detection items are as follows:
1) skin melanin tester
Figure BDA0003278965310000111
MX18 is used to detect skin melanin;
2) skin color tester
Figure BDA0003278965310000112
CL200 is used to detect skin glossiness;
3) skin color tester
Figure BDA0003278965310000113
CR400 is used to detect skin color.
And (3) testing results:
as shown in fig. 2-3 and tables 4-5, which are the results of clinical efficacy testing experiments of the test samples, the test of melanin in the target area of the subject (the measured value is reduced, which indicates that the skin melanin content is less) was performed 56 days after the use of the sample, the skin melanin value of the control area is significantly increased by 4.52%, and the melanin value of the area using the sample is only increased by 2.86%. The prepared skin-brightening and whitening essence milk can effectively reduce the generation of skin melanin.
TABLE 4 results of measurement of melanin content in skin after 56 days in sample group and control group
Time Before use After 14 days of use After 28 days of use After 56 days of use
Sample (I) 183.65 183.03 184.90 188.90
Control 182.97 183.08 186.77 191.23
TABLE 5 rate of change of melanin in skin after 56 days in sample group and control group
Time After 14 days of use After 28 days of use After 56 days of use
Sample (I) -0.34% 0.68% 2.86%
Control 0.06% 2.08% 4.52%
Referring to fig. 4-5 and tables 6-7, the results of the clinical efficacy test experiments of the test samples were obtained, and the skin glossiness of the target part of the subject was measured 56 days after the use of the sample (the measured value was increased, which indicates that the skin glossiness is better), the skin glossiness of the control area was decreased by 5.46%, and the skin glossiness of the sample area was increased by 1.43%, which indicates that the prepared skin lightening and whitening essence cream is effective in lightening the skin glossiness.
TABLE 6 measurement results of skin glossiness after 56 days for the sample group and the control group
Time Before use After 14 days of use After 28 days of use After 56 days of use
Sample (I) 10.08 10.20 10.16 10.22
Control 10.23 9.97 9.79 9.67
TABLE 7 skin gloss Change Rate after 56 days for the sample group and the control group
Time After 14 days of use After 28 days of use After 56 days of use
Sample (I) 1.20% 0.85% 1.43%
Control -2.57% -4.27% -5.46%
As shown in FIGS. 6-8, tables 8-10 are the results of clinical evaluations by dermatologists:
1) dark skin color: a score of 0 indicates a dark, dim color, and a score of 9 indicates a bright color.
2) Brightness of skin: a score of 0 indicates that the skin is opaque and not reflective, and a score of 0 indicates that the skin is transparent and reflective.
3) Whiteness of skin: score 0 indicates a pale, dark skin color, and score 9 indicates a very pale, porcelain-like skin color.
Change rate ═ (post sample measurement-pre sample measurement used)/pre sample measurement 100%.
The mean value of the skin darkness clinical score of the sample area is remarkably increased by 40.65% after the subjects use the sample for 56 days, and the mean value of the skin darkness clinical score of the control area is remarkably increased by 19.20%; the mean value of the skin brightness clinical scores in the sample area is remarkably increased by 11.36 percent, and the mean value of the skin brightness clinical scores in the control area is remarkably increased by 2.31 percent; the mean of the skin whiteness clinical scores in the sample area were significantly increased by 33.33%, and the mean of the skin whiteness clinical scores in the control area were significantly increased by 20.45%.
Table 8 rate of change of mean value of clinical scores of skin darkness after 56 days for examples and comparative examples
Time After 14 days of use After 28 days of use After 56 days of use
Sample (I) 23.58% 33.33% 40.65%
Control 6.40% 14.40% 19.20%
TABLE 9 rate of change of mean values of skin brightness clinical scores after 56 days in examples and comparative examples
Time After 14 days of use After 28 days of use After 56 days of use
Sample (I) 24.24% 31.82% 11.36%
Control 7.69% 15.38% 2.31%
TABLE 10 rate of change in mean value of skin whiteness clinical scores in examples and comparative examples after 56 days
Time After 14 days of use After 28 days of use After 56 days of use
Sample (I) 20.00% 27.41% 33.33%
Control 6.82% 16.67% 20.45%
5. Synergistic interaction experiment of main functional components in skin-brightening and whitening essence milk
A skin-brightening and whitening essence milk composition is prepared into whitening essence milk, and the contents of the raw material components in comparative examples 1-15 are shown in the following tables 11-12.
TABLE 11 ingredient ratio Table (unit: mass%) of skin-lightening and whitening essence milks of comparative examples 1 to 7
Figure BDA0003278965310000131
Figure BDA0003278965310000141
TABLE 12 ingredient ratio Table (unit: mass%) of skin-lightening and whitening essence milks of comparative examples 8 to 15
Figure BDA0003278965310000142
Figure BDA0003278965310000151
The preparation process of the essence milk with the functions of whitening and brightening the skin comprises the following steps:
1) wetting and completely dispersing the thickening agent in water to obtain a mixed solution;
2) adding the skin brightening and whitening functional components, the emollient, the filler, the preservative and the pH regulator into the mixed solution obtained in the step 1), heating to 65 ℃, and homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3 minutes to completely disperse the mixed solution;
3) adding an emulsifier and a daily essence into the step 2), homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3 minutes to completely emulsify the mixture, and heating to 65 ℃ to obtain the essence emulsion composition with the effects of brightening the skin and whitening the skin. (comparative examples 1 to 15).
The effects of example 1 and comparative examples 1 to 15 of the skin lightening and whitening composition synergy test were verified (whitening evaluation), with the following test procedures and results:
1. the tester: 160 healthy women (25-45 years old) divided into 16 groups of 10 persons each; each group used the same formulation.
2. Test area: face (left face blank, right face control sample or example sample);
3. use of: twice a day in the morning and evening for 4 weeks
4. Testing an instrument: delfin SkinColorCatch (Finland)
5. The effect indexes are as follows: measuring the change in color lightness (. DELTA.L)*) ITA degree, L in the present invention*The values (brightness), ITA degrees (color individual type angle), are mainly used as indices.
Equation (1): Δ L*=[L*(after 1 month of test on the control or example products) -L*(before starting the test)]-[L*(blank product after 1 month of testing) -L*(before starting the test)]
Figure BDA0003278965310000152
(2): the ITA degrees (representing the overall change in chroma, with higher ITA ° values and lighter skin colors) are shown in table 13 below.
TABLE 13 skin color classifications corresponding to different ITA DEG Range values
ITA degree range Skin color classification
55–90 Very shallow Very light
41–54 Light shallow
28–40 Intermediate, etc
10–27 Tanned tanning
-30–9 Brown color of Brown
-90–-29 -29Dark color of Dark color
Figure BDA0003278965310000161
6. The test effects are shown in table 14 below.
TABLE 14 test group Effect
Figure BDA0003278965310000162
Figure BDA0003278965310000171
As seen from the results of table 14, the brightening ability: example 1> comparative example 15> comparative examples 11-14> comparative examples 5-10> comparative examples 1-4; whitening capacity: example 1> comparative example 15> comparative examples 11 to 14> comparative examples 5 to 10> comparative examples 1 to 4.
The skin-lightening and whitening essence emulsion composition has the effects of whitening and brightening skin through the synergistic effect of the components wrapped by the liposome, and has more obvious effect than the effect of using a single whitening component or two or three components simultaneously. In addition, the components are simultaneously encapsulated in the liposome, so that the transdermal efficiency of the active ingredients can be increased, the active ingredients can be more efficiently delivered to the skin to locally act, and the active ingredients are difficult to really act at a target position due to the fact that the active ingredients are directly coated on the surface of the skin. In conclusion, the prepared skin-brightening and whitening lipidosome essence emulsion composition has the capabilities of efficiently brightening the skin and increasing the fair degree of the skin.
The above description is only a preferred embodiment of the present invention, and is not intended to limit the present invention in any way, so that any simple modification, equivalent change and modification made to the above embodiment according to the technical spirit of the present invention are within the scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims (10)

1. The essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects is characterized by comprising the following components in parts by weight:
1.0-45.0% of skin-brightening and whitening efficacy liposome, which comprises the following main efficacy components: 0.1-10% of white willow bark extract, 0.1-10% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.1-5% of nicotinamide, 0.2-10% of Codium spinulosum extract;
5.0-40.0% of an emollient;
0.5-30.0% of emulsifier;
0.5-20.0% of a filler;
0.1-10.0% of a thickening agent;
0.3-5.0% of preservative;
0.01-5% of pH regulator;
0.01-1.0% of daily essence;
the balance being deionized water.
2. The essential milk composition containing the liposome having the skin-lightening and whitening effects as claimed in claim 1, wherein the essential milk composition is composed of the following components by weight:
2.0-25.0% of the liposome with the effects of brightening and whitening skin comprises the following main effective components: 0.2-5% white willow bark extract, 0.2-8% undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.5-5% nicotinamide, 0.25-5% spiny algae extract;
5.0-30.0% of an emollient;
0.5-25.0% of emulsifier;
0.5-15.0% of a filler;
0.5-10.0% of a thickening agent;
0.3-4.0% of preservative;
0.05-4% of pH regulator;
0.01-0.5% of daily essence;
the balance being deionized water.
3. The essential milk composition containing the liposome having the skin-lightening and whitening effects as claimed in claim 1, wherein the essential milk composition is composed of the following components by weight:
4.0-18.0% of skin-lightening and whitening liposome, which comprises the following main functional components: 0.5-3.5% of white willow bark extract, 0.2-4% of undecylenoyl phenylalanine, 0.5-3.5% of nicotinamide, 0.5-4% of Botrytis spinosa extract;
5.0-20.0% of an emollient;
0.5-10.0% of emulsifier;
0.5-10.0% of a filler;
0.5-8.0% of a thickening agent;
0.3-1.0% of preservative;
0.1-4% of pH regulator;
0.01-0.1% of daily essence;
the balance being deionized water.
4. The essential milk composition containing the liposome having the skin-lightening and whitening effects as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein:
the skin-brightening and whitening efficacy liposome comprises the following main efficacy components in percentage by mass: undecylenoyl phenylalanine: nicotinamide: white willow bark extract: the codium spiniferum extract is prepared from 1: 1: 1: 1 to 1: 4: 5: 5.
5. the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin lightening and whitening effects as claimed in claim 3, wherein the preparation method of the liposome with the skin lightening and whitening effects comprises the following steps:
1) fully dissolving 1-5 g of phospholipid in 5-50 mL of ethanol, stirring until the phospholipid is fully dissolved, transferring to a rotary evaporator, and evaporating at low temperature to remove ethanol to form a uniform phospholipid membrane on the bottom surface of a container;
2) uniformly stirring and mixing 20-50 mL of phosphoric acid buffer solution and the skin-brightening and whitening functional components;
3) transferring the mixed solution in the step 2) to a container of a rotary evaporator to carry out water treatment on the phospholipid film, and carrying out ultrasonic treatment for 3-5 minutes after the film completely falls off, thereby obtaining the skin-brightening and whitening liposome with small particle size.
6. The essential milk composition containing the liposome having the skin-lightening and whitening effects as claimed in claim 5, wherein: the phospholipid film is selected from one of soybean phospholipid, lecithin and cephalin;
the particle size of the skin-brightening and whitening effect liposome is between 0.1 and 1 micron.
7. The essential milk composition containing the liposome having the skin-lightening and whitening effects as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein:
the emollient is selected from one or more of caprylic capric triglyceride, squalane, avocado oil, shea butter, jojoba oil, glycerol, butanediol, hexanediol, pentanediol, polydimethylsiloxane, dimethiconol, PEG-11 methyl ether polydimethylsiloxane, phytosterol/octyl dodecyl lauroyl glutamic acid, hydrogenated polyisobutene, rapeseed oil, polydecene, soybean oil, olive oil, isododecane, isohexadecane, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol.
8. The essential milk composition containing the liposome having the skin-lightening and whitening effects as claimed in claim 4, wherein:
the emulsifier is selected from one or more of olive oil PEG-7 esters, PEG-8 caprylic/capric glycerides, sorbitan olive oleate, polysorbate-20, laureth-23, PEG-40 stearate, steareth-21, palmitol and PEG-75 stearate and mixtures of glyceryl stearate and steareth-20, polysorbate-80, soya lecithin PC60, mixtures of glyceryl stearate and PEG-75 stearate, poloxamer 407, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, ceteareth-25;
the filler is selected from one or more of titanium dioxide, mica, boron nitride, polymethylsilsesquioxane, diatomite, kaolin, cellulose acetate, starch octyl aluminum succinate, talcum powder, barium sulfate and volcanic ash;
the thickening agent is selected from one or more of hydroxyethyl cellulose, xanthan gum, carbomer, acrylic acid (ester)/copolymer, polymer EMT-10, polyacrylate cross-linked polymer-6, sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer, acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer, acrylic ester/C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-linked polymer, polyethylene, gum arabic and hydroxypropyl starch phosphate;
the preservative is selected from one or more of phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyl glycerol, pentanediol, hexanediol, jasmone, sodium benzoate, triclosan and chlorphenesin;
the pH regulator is selected from one or more of lactic acid and arginine.
9. The method for preparing the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin-lightening and whitening effects according to any one of claims 4 to 8, wherein the method comprises the following steps: the method comprises the following steps:
1) wetting and completely dispersing the thickening agent in water to obtain a mixed solution;
2) adding an emollient, a filler, a preservative and a pH regulator into the mixed solution obtained in the step 1), heating to 65 ℃, and homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3 minutes to completely disperse the mixed solution;
3) adding an emulsifier and a daily essence in the step 2), homogenizing at 3000r/min for 3 minutes to completely emulsify, stirring and cooling, and adding the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects to obtain the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin brightening and whitening effects.
10. A cosmetic characterized by: the cosmetic comprises the essence emulsion composition containing the liposome with the skin-brightening and whitening effects prepared by the preparation method of claim 9.
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