CN113293473A - Production process of clean jean fabric - Google Patents
Production process of clean jean fabric Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN113293473A CN113293473A CN202110695530.2A CN202110695530A CN113293473A CN 113293473 A CN113293473 A CN 113293473A CN 202110695530 A CN202110695530 A CN 202110695530A CN 113293473 A CN113293473 A CN 113293473A
- Authority
- CN
- China
- Prior art keywords
- fiber
- loose
- dyeing
- dye
- loose fiber
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 87
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 20
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 311
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 76
- 230000000694 effects Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 67
- 239000000988 sulfur dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 53
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 41
- 239000000985 reactive dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 23
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 19
- 239000000986 disperse dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 18
- 239000000980 acid dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 239000002994 raw material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000000984 vat dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 239000000982 direct dye Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 141
- 229920000742 Cotton Polymers 0.000 claims description 65
- 229920000728 polyester Polymers 0.000 claims description 20
- 239000005020 polyethylene terephthalate Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 229920000297 Rayon Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920004933 Terylene® Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000002131 composite material Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 229920001778 nylon Polymers 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000004677 Nylon Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920000433 Lyocell Polymers 0.000 claims description 9
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 229920002972 Acrylic fiber Polymers 0.000 claims description 8
- 238000009987 spinning Methods 0.000 claims description 7
- 229920006052 Chinlon® Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 claims description 6
- 108090000623 proteins and genes Proteins 0.000 claims description 6
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000009940 knitting Methods 0.000 abstract description 8
- 238000012545 processing Methods 0.000 abstract description 5
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 56
- UCKMPCXJQFINFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulphide Chemical compound [S-2] UCKMPCXJQFINFW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 53
- 230000008569 process Effects 0.000 description 45
- NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Sulfur Chemical compound [S] NINIDFKCEFEMDL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 26
- 229910052717 sulfur Inorganic materials 0.000 description 24
- 239000011593 sulfur Substances 0.000 description 24
- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 description 21
- 238000004073 vulcanization Methods 0.000 description 16
- 244000025254 Cannabis sativa Species 0.000 description 15
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 description 14
- 150000002825 nitriles Chemical class 0.000 description 11
- 235000012766 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. sativa Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 235000012765 Cannabis sativa ssp. sativa var. spontanea Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 235000009120 camo Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 235000005607 chanvre indien Nutrition 0.000 description 10
- 239000011487 hemp Substances 0.000 description 10
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 10
- 238000002474 experimental method Methods 0.000 description 8
- 235000000177 Indigofera tinctoria Nutrition 0.000 description 7
- 229940097275 indigo Drugs 0.000 description 7
- COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N indigo powder Natural products N1C2=CC=CC=C2C(=O)C1=C1C(=O)C2=CC=CC=C2N1 COHYTHOBJLSHDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 7
- 238000007378 ring spinning Methods 0.000 description 7
- 238000005562 fading Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000002156 mixing Methods 0.000 description 6
- 235000015067 sauces Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 230000007547 defect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 description 4
- 239000010977 jade Substances 0.000 description 4
- 230000000704 physical effect Effects 0.000 description 4
- 241000208202 Linaceae Species 0.000 description 3
- 235000004431 Linum usitatissimum Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 210000004243 sweat Anatomy 0.000 description 3
- 238000007382 vortex spinning Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- NLHHRLWOUZZQLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acrylonitrile Chemical compound C=CC#N NLHHRLWOUZZQLW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000005864 Sulphur Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000010521 absorption reaction Methods 0.000 description 2
- HGINCPLSRVDWNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N acrylaldehyde Natural products C=CC=O HGINCPLSRVDWNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 230000009471 action Effects 0.000 description 2
- -1 and the like) Polymers 0.000 description 2
- 238000010835 comparative analysis Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000035699 permeability Effects 0.000 description 2
- 239000004575 stone Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000012360 testing method Methods 0.000 description 2
- PGYZAKRTYUHXRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,10-dinitro-12h-[1,4]benzothiazino[3,2-b]phenothiazin-3-one Chemical compound S1C2=CC(=O)C([N+]([O-])=O)=CC2=NC2=C1C=C1SC3=CC=C([N+](=O)[O-])C=C3NC1=C2 PGYZAKRTYUHXRA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- LRBZENFZSJNJCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 5-bromo-2-(5-bromo-3-hydroxy-1H-indol-2-yl)indol-3-one Chemical compound [O-]c1c([nH]c2ccc(Br)cc12)C1=[NH+]c2ccc(Br)cc2C1=O LRBZENFZSJNJCR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 241000185686 Apocynum venetum Species 0.000 description 1
- 240000008564 Boehmeria nivea Species 0.000 description 1
- 229920004934 Dacron® Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 101001018064 Homo sapiens Lysosomal-trafficking regulator Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 206010020751 Hypersensitivity Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 102100033472 Lysosomal-trafficking regulator Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 244000038561 Modiola caroliniana Species 0.000 description 1
- 235000010703 Modiola caroliniana Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SJEYSFABYSGQBG-UHFFFAOYSA-M Patent blue Chemical compound [Na+].C1=CC(N(CC)CC)=CC=C1C(C=1C(=CC(=CC=1)S([O-])(=O)=O)S([O-])(=O)=O)=C1C=CC(=[N+](CC)CC)C=C1 SJEYSFABYSGQBG-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000004952 Polyamide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 208000026935 allergic disease Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 230000007815 allergy Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000015572 biosynthetic process Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 238000004140 cleaning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000013329 compounding Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010276 construction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000011161 development Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229920002647 polyamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 230000009467 reduction Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000717 retained effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000004513 sizing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003068 static effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000009965 tatting Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000009423 ventilation Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000009976 warp beam dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000002351 wastewater Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009970 yarn dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
Images
Classifications
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/34—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns
- D02G3/346—Yarns or threads having slubs, knops, spirals, loops, tufts, or other irregular or decorative effects, i.e. effect yarns with coloured effects, i.e. by differential dyeing process
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/02—Material containing basic nitrogen
- D06P3/04—Material containing basic nitrogen containing amide groups
- D06P3/24—Polyamides; Polyurethanes
- D06P3/241—Polyamides; Polyurethanes using acid dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
- D06P3/52—Polyesters
- D06P3/54—Polyesters using dispersed dyestuffs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
- D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
- D06P3/6025—Natural or regenerated cellulose using vat or sulfur dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
- D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
- D06P3/62—Natural or regenerated cellulose using direct dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
- D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
- D06P3/66—Natural or regenerated cellulose using reactive dyes
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/70—Material containing nitrile groups
- D06P3/76—Material containing nitrile groups using basic dyes
-
- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
Landscapes
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Dispersion Chemistry (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
- Artificial Filaments (AREA)
- Woven Fabrics (AREA)
Abstract
The application provides a production process of clean jean fabric, belonging to the technical field of knitting, weaving or warp knitting fabrics or products which are mainly characterized by adopting special yarn raw materials. The fibril of the first loose fiber is dyed by reactive dye, disperse dye, acid dye, cationic dye or vat dye, the fibril of the second loose fiber is dyed by direct dye or sulfur dye to form a second loose fiber with different color fastness and vividness from the loose fiber, the first loose fiber and the second loose fiber are blended according to a proportion to form colored yarns, and the colored yarns are woven to form the jean fabric. The application is applied to the processing of the jean fabric, the jean has the old washing effect, and the more the jean is washed, the more the jean is bright, and the jean has the advantages that the workshop environment and equipment cannot be polluted.
Description
Technical Field
The application relates to a production process of clean jean fabric, belonging to the technical field of knitting, weaving, warp knitting fabrics or products which are mainly characterized by adopting special yarn raw materials.
Background
The jean fabric is high in durability and universality, and in the processing and development process of the jean fabric, the jean fabric is generally divided into two stages:
in the first period: the indigo or the sulfur dye is used for dyeing warp yarns by a sizing and dyeing combined machine to be woven into fabric, and finally, the fabric is made into the clothes product with the jean washing effect in the modes of washing, stone grinding and the like.
And a second stage: the indigo or the sulfur dye is used for carrying out yarn dyeing through a ball warp beam dyeing machine to prepare a fabric or a product, and finally, the product with the jean washing effect is prepared through methods such as water washing, stone grinding and the like.
However, the above methods have limitations on dyeing raw materials, monotonous color and single product; the use of dyes such as indigo can be seriously retained in the surrounding environment in the dyeing and weaving process, and when the denim is dyed in the workshop, other fabrics can be dyed only if a great amount of cleaning work cannot be carried out or needs to be carried out; based on the requirement of the market for product diversity, in order to obtain clothes in a nostalgic or retro style, the dyed jean fabric dye is mostly fixed on the surface of the fiber, so that the exterior of the fiber is colored, the inner side of the fiber is always a white core, the color fastness is low/poor, natural fading forms an old-making effect in the washing process, and although the old-making effect is also achieved, the process and the old-making degree are not controllable.
Disclosure of Invention
In view of the above, the application provides a novel jean fabric weaving process, the weaving process introduces various yarns to realize composite blending and then weaving to form the jean fabric, and the requirements of old-fashioned fabric and color fastness are met.
Specifically, the method is realized through the following scheme:
a clean jean fabric production process includes dyeing fibril of a loose fiber I with reactive dye, disperse dye, acid dye, cationic dye or vat dye, dyeing fibril of a loose fiber II with direct dye or sulfur dye to form a loose fiber II with different color fastness and brightness from the loose fiber I, blending the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II according to a proportion to form colored yarns, and weaving the colored yarns to form the jean fabric.
The processing process of the application is divided into two parts: firstly, dyeing loose fibers: different loose fibers are matched with different dyeings to form two kinds of yarn forming raw materials with high color fastness and poor color fastness, thereby providing a foundation for different fibers to present different effects in the subsequent washing and whitening processes; secondly, yarn forming: according to different proportions of the two yarn forming raw materials, part of yarns of the color spun jean yarn have an old washing effect, and part of the color fastness is high, so that the integral color fastness is improved; the color that dyes dyeing such as vulcanization formed is dark partially, does not have the vividness, and the color fastness that dyeing such as reactive dye formed is good, the vividness is high, and both cooperate, and the contrast is obvious, and parts such as vulcanization fade along with the washing, and the most that finally leave are dyes such as reactive, make the surface fabric be and wash more vividly the effect more, different mill white degree, washing degree, different yarn ratios can form different surface fabric effects.
In the weaving process, after different fibers are dyed in different dyeing modes respectively, the inner layer and the outer layer of the fibers are dyed with colors, the white core phenomenon of traditional pulp dyeing, bundle dyeing and the like can not occur, and the dyeing fastness is obviously improved; the color washing is controlled by the washing degree, and is not a necessary result caused by poor color fastness, so that clean production can be realized; after weaving, the different old washing effects can be embodied by controlling the washing strength.
Further, as preferable:
the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 30-65: 70-35.
The loose fiber is dyed by reactive dye, disperse dye, vat dye, cationic dye or acid dye, and the formed loose fiber has high color fastness and is not easy to fade in subsequent washing and whitening. The fibril of the first loose fiber is selected from any one or more of plant fiber (such as cotton, hemp, and the like), terylene, modified terylene, viscose fiber, modal fiber, tencel, acrylon, chinlon, real silk, protein fiber and wool fiber.
The preferable scheme of the loose fibers is as follows:
the second loose fiber is dyed by denim dyes such as direct dyes, sulfur dyes and the like, the sulfur dyes can adopt common sulfur dyes, pre-reduction dyes and water-soluble sulfur dyes, the dry friction coefficient of the sulfur dye dyeing is high, partial color fading can occur in water washing treatment, but color fading is limited in the process of whitening, and a pollution-free processing process can be realized, so that the spinning effect is good, and the fibrils of the second loose fiber are selected from any one or more of plant fibers (such as cotton, hemp and the like), viscose fibers, modal fibers and tencel.
The second preferred scheme of the loose fiber is as follows:
the loose fiber is not subjected to a dyeing step and is directly used as a natural fiber to participate in yarn formation; the jean can also be dyed by adopting jean dye different from the loose fiber II, the color fastness of the loose fiber I, the loose fiber II and the loose fiber III is different, and the jean yarns with various color fastness can be formed. Fibril of the third loose fiber is selected from any one or more of plant fiber (such as cotton, hemp, and the like), terylene, modified terylene, viscose fiber, modal fiber, tencel, acrylon, chinlon, real silk, protein fiber and wool fiber.
The third preferred scheme of the loose fiber is as follows:
the mass ratio of the loose fiber I, the loose fiber II and the loose fiber III is 30-50:25-40: 10-30.
The conventional denim yarn color spinning process adopts a mode of multiple dye mixed dyeing, namely, after indigo or sulfur dyeing is carried out on the yarn, reactive dye is used for over dyeing, and then spinning is carried out, the effect of the mode before water washing is better, but with the increase of the water washing times, the more the indigo or sulfur dyeing color is washed, the lighter the indigo or sulfur dyeing color is, and the whole denim yarn is in an old grey state; in the scheme, the raw materials are divided into two parts, one part is dyed by reactive dye or disperse dye or vat dye or cationic dye or acid dye, the other part is dyed by jean dye (sulfur dye or direct dye), the formed two raw materials form yarns, and part of yarns of the formed colored spun jean yarns have an old washing effect, and part of yarns have high color fastness, so that the integral color fastness is improved; the color formed by dyeing with the dyes such as vulcanization is dark, has no vividness, the color formed by dyeing with the reactive dyes is good in color fastness and high in vividness, the two are matched, the contrast is obvious, when the parts such as vulcanization are washed away with water, most of the dyes such as reactive dyes are finally left, and the fabric has the effect of being more vivid after being washed.
In the process:
the dyeing process of the sulfur dye comprises the following steps: the concentration of the sulfur dye is 10-30% (owf), the pH value of the dye liquor is 10-13, and the dyeing treatment is carried out for 50-80min at the temperature of 90-120 ℃. More preferably:
the dyeing process of the sulfur dye comprises the following steps: the concentration of the sulfur dye is 16-20% (owf), the pH value of the dye liquor is 11-12.5, and the dyeing treatment is carried out for 55-65min at the temperature of 95-105 ℃.
The sulfur dye is any one of sulfur dark blue 3R, sulfur Baolan CV, sulfur red brown B3R, sulfur ash, sulfur yellow brown 5G, sulfur red LGF, sulfur dark green 511, sulfur bright green 7713, sulfur dark brown GD, sulfur grass green 715, sulfur black BR, sulfur blue BRN, sulfur red sauce 3B or sulfur red GGF.
The sulfur dye is also added with bromoindigo.
The dyeing process of the reactive dye comprises the following steps: 5-15 percent of reactive dye (owf) is used, the pH value of the dye liquor is 9-13, and the treatment is carried out for 50-80min at the temperature of 30-80 ℃. More preferably, the amount of the reactive dye is 6-8% (owf), the pH of the dye liquor is 11-12, and the treatment is carried out for 55-60min at 50-60 ℃.
The disperse dye dyeing process comprises the following steps: the dosage of the disperse dye is 0.5-7%, the pH value of the dye solution is 3-6, and the treatment is carried out at 145 ℃ for 30-80 min. More preferably: the disperse dye is a composite dye, the dosage is 0.9-5%, the pH of the dye solution is 4-5, and the treatment is carried out at the temperature of 120-135 ℃ for 40-50 min.
The cationic dye dyeing process comprises the following steps: the dosage of the cationic dye is 0.04-2.0%, the pH of the dye solution is 3-6, and the treatment is carried out for 30-80min at the temperature of 90-145 ℃. Preferably, the cationic dye is a composite dye, the pH of the dye solution is 4-5, and the treatment is carried out at the temperature of 100-130 ℃ for 30-50 min.
The dyeing process of the acid dye comprises the following steps: the acid dye is used in an amount of 1.6-8.0%, the pH of the dye solution is 3-6, and the treatment is carried out at 90-130 ℃ for 30-80 min. More preferably, the acid dye is a composite dye, the dosage is 3.5-6%, the pH of the dye solution is 4-5, and the treatment is carried out at 120 ℃ for 50-60 min.
The traditional denim is washed old through poor color fastness, the process is uncontrollable, and compared with the clean denim fabric production process, the clean denim fabric production process has the following advantages:
(1) the weaving process is pollution-free, the color washing is controlled by the washing speed, and the inevitable result caused by poor color fastness is avoided, so that the clean production can be realized.
(2) Can realize the diversification of dyeing colors and the diversification of jean components, and avoids the fiber type limitation of the traditional indigo dyeing.
(3) The inner and outer layers of the fiber can be dyed, the white core phenomenon can not occur, and the dyeing fastness is obviously improved.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a plant denim fabric in the present application;
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a cotton-polyester jean fabric in the present application;
FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a cotton nitrile denim fabric in the present application;
FIG. 4 is a schematic view of a cotton-nylon jean fabric in the present application;
FIG. 5 is a comparison graph of the washing effect of the black denim fabric;
fig. 6 is a comparison graph of the washing effect of the denim blue fabric in the application.
Detailed Description
Example 1: plant jean fabric
The processing flow of the jean fabric is summarized as follows:
1) dyeing cotton fibers by using a sulfur dye to form a loose fiber I;
2) dyeing the terylene with disperse dye to form a second loose fiber;
3) blending the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II into cotton polyester dyed yarns;
4) and (5) weaving.
The following is an analysis of specific parameters.
1) Effect of different fibers on yarn Properties
The plant fiber mainly adopts hemp fiber (in the application, the plant yarn is mainly used for spinning, therefore, the hemp fiber mainly adopts ramie, hemp, flax, apocynum venetum and the like) and cotton fiber, therefore, the plant yarn has three forms:
firstly, the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II adopt the fibrilia simultaneously to form pure fibrilia series,
secondly, the first loose fiber and the second loose fiber adopt cotton fiber at the same time to form a pure cotton series,
thirdly, the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II adopt fibrilia and cotton fiber to form a cotton-flax series.
Combining different dyeing methods, plant yarns of several compositions as shown in table 1 were formed.
TABLE 1 construction of plant yarn
The table 1 provides the dyed plant yarns of the pure cotton series, the pure linen series and the cotton linen series respectively, and the fabric formed by the pure cotton series has the advantages of good moisture absorption and heat resistance, wearing comfort and the like; the pure hemp series has the characteristics of good hygroscopicity, quick moisture permeability, allergy resistance, static resistance, light weight and the like; the cotton-flax series has soft texture, warmness in winter and coolness in summer and excellent permeability, can effectively adsorb sweat and slight sweat on human skin, really achieves the effects of ventilation and sweat absorption, endows the yarn with soft color due to the individual difference of cotton and flax in active dyeing and vulcanization dyeing, and particularly has better use effect due to the matching of cotton and flax.
2) Effect of different ratios on plant yarn Performance
In this embodiment, the plant yarn is divided into two forms:
(1) the loose fibers I and the loose fibers II; (2) the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber and the third loose fiber.
In the following, the influence of the compounding ratio was compared and analyzed, as represented by numbers 1, 2 and 11 in table 1.
1. The process flow comprises the following steps: the method is characterized in that cotton fiber is used as a raw material and divided into two parts, one part of the cotton fiber is dyed by reactive dye to form a loose fiber I, the other part of the cotton fiber is dyed by sulfur dye to form a loose fiber II, and the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II are spun by ring spinning to obtain the plant yarn.
2. Description of the parameters
(1) 1, loose fiber I: activity black W-N8% (o.w.f), pH11.5, 60 ℃, 60 min.
(2) And (2) loose fibers: black sulphide BR 18% (o.w.f), pH 12.5, 100 ℃ for 60 min.
(3) The ring spinning process conditions are as follows: the low-speed vortex spinning is adopted, the speed is controlled at 350m/min, the feeding ratio is 0.97, so that cohesive force is reduced, the glittering effect is increased, and the drafting in the rear zone is properly reduced, so that accidental drafting is controlled.
(4) The proportion of the first loose fibers to the second loose fibers is as follows: experiments were conducted in which plant yarns were constructed in two colors (two dyeing modes, i.e., active dyeing and vulcanization dyeing, and not limited to two colors for dyeing) using the respective ratios of the first loose fibers to the second loose fibers (mass ratios of the first loose fibers to the second loose fibers) as represented by 10:90, 20:80, 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30, 80:20, and 90: 10.
The experimental structure shows that: the characteristics based on different components are more obvious, such as higher color fastness and bright color of fibers dyed by the reactive dye, the fabric is suitable for being made into bright yarn and finished cloth, and the effects of fading, old color making, white grinding (which is the requirement of denim yarn on color) and the like are not ideal enough; the color of the sulfur dye is dark, and the color is not bright; the control of the ratio must therefore be very critical to ensure compatibility in appearance and compatibility in physical properties. When the mass ratio of the first loose fiber to the second loose fiber is 30-65:70-35, the first loose fiber and the second loose fiber have good matching effect, the color fastness of cloth woven by the plant yarn is more than 4 grade, the surface can realize the effects of pocking, washing and the like, in addition, in the using washing process, when parts such as vulcanization and the like are faded along with the washing, most of the finally remained dyes such as activity and the like are obvious in contrast, so that the fabric has the effect of being more bright-colored when being washed, and the defect of dark color is overcome while the effect of the vulcanized parts is exerted.
Further, experiments were also conducted on the three-color composition of the pure cotton series, and three-color (including active dyeing, vulcanization dyeing and natural color, but not limited to three colors) was performed using the ratios (mass ratios) of the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber and the third loose fiber as representatives of 10:80:10, 20:70:10, 25:65:10, 30:60:10, 30:50:20, 20:60:20, 25:55:20, 25:50:25, 30:45:25, 35:40:25, 40:35:25, 45:30:25, 45:25:30, 50:20:30 and 60:10:30, respectively. A trend similar to dichroism appears: the effect is better when the mass ratio of the loose fiber I, the loose fiber II and the loose fiber III is 30-50:25-40: 10-30.
3) Influence of different dyeing processes on performance of plant denim fabric
Taking the scheme with the number 1 in table 1 as an example,
the loose fibers are formed by dyeing cotton fibers with reactive dyes, the loose fibers are formed by dyeing the cotton fibers with sulfur dyes, the two loose fibers are blended into yarns to form the denim colored yarns, the yarns are spun by ring spinning, and then the denim fabric is woven by a warp knitting mode.
The dyeing process of the reactive dye comprises the following steps: 5-15% (such as 5%, 6%, 8%, 10%, 11.5%, 12%, 13%, 14%, 15%) of reactive dye, 9-13 (such as 9, 10, 11, 11.5, 12) of dye solution, 50-80% (such as 30 ℃, 40 ℃, 50 ℃, 55 ℃, 60 ℃, 65 ℃, 70 ℃, 80 ℃) of treatment for 50-80min (such as 50min, 55min, 60min, 65min, 70min, 80min), 6-8% (owf) of reactive dye, 11-12% of dye solution, and 55-60 ℃ of treatment for 55-60min, wherein the reactive dye dyeing process is not only suitable for the cotton fibers, but also suitable for the hemp fibers.
The dyeing process of the sulfur dye comprises the following steps: the sulfur dye concentration is 10-30% (such as 10%, 12%, 15%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 25%, 30%), the dye solution pH is 10-13 (such as 10, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13), the dyeing treatment is 50-80min (such as 50min, 55min, 60min, 65min, 70min, 80min) at 90-120 ℃ (such as 85 ℃, 90 ℃, 95 ℃, 100 ℃, 102 ℃, 105 ℃, 110 ℃, 120 ℃), the sulfur dye dosage is 16-20% (owf), the dye solution pH is 11-12.5, and the dyeing treatment is 55-65min at 95-105 ℃, the sulfur dyeing process is not only suitable for the cotton fiber, but also suitable for the hemp fiber.
Wherein the sulfur dye can be selected from any one of commercially available deep blue sulfide 3R, Baolan sulfide CV, red brown sulfide B3R, sulfur ash, yellow brown sulfide 5G, red LGF sulfide, dark green sulfide 511, bright green sulfide 7713, dark brown sulfide GD, grass green sulfide 715, black BR sulfide, blue BRN sulfide, red sauce sulfide 3B or red GGF sulfide.
The dyed yarns were subjected to a color fastness test using a black dye as an example, and the results are shown in table 2.
TABLE 2 color fastness of vegetable yarns under different dyeing processes
The color fastness of the formed cloth is more than 4 grade, the fibers dyed by different dyes by cotton and hemp have different dye uptake, the surfaces of the final plant yarns (such as the plant yarns corresponding to the serial numbers 1, 2 and 3 in the table 2) obtained by the method can have pockmarks, after weaving, the pockmarks as shown in figure 1 can be embodied in the effects of vintage, washing old and the like, in the washing process, parts such as vulcanization and the like are faded with water, most of the finally left dyes such as active dyes are obvious in contrast, and the fabric has the effect of being more bright when being washed.
The above trends have the same or less different trends for the other protocols in table 1.
The plant yarn is woven by any one of tatting, knitting, weaving or warp knitting weaving, and the plant denim fabric shown in the figure 1 can be processed and formed.
Example 2: cotton-polyester jean fabric
The flow of this example is summarized as follows:
1) dyeing cotton fibers by using a sulfur dye to form a loose fiber I; 2) dyeing the terylene with disperse dye to form a second loose fiber;
3) blending the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II into cotton polyester dyed yarns; 4) and (5) weaving.
The following is an analysis of specific parameters.
1) Effect of raw Material composition on Linear Performance of Cotton polyester yarn
In this example, cotton polyester yarn is divided into two forms:
(1) the loose fibers I and the loose fibers II; (2) the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber and the third loose fiber.
In this application, loose fiber is the cotton fiber of sulphur dye dyeing, and loose fiber is the dacron of disperse dye dyeing, carries out comparative analysis with regard to the influence of ratio below.
1. The process flow comprises the following steps: the cotton fiber is dyed by a sulfur dye to form a first loose fiber, the polyester fiber is dyed by a second loose fiber in a disperse composite dye form, and the first loose fiber and the second loose fiber are spun tightly by vortex to obtain the cotton-polyester yarn.
2. Description of the parameters
(1) 1, loose fiber I: vulcanized black BR 16% (o.w.f), pH 12, 102 ℃, 55 min; and (5) dyeing black.
(2) And (2) loose fibers: blue H-GL 2.6% (o.w.f) + orange S-EC 1.43% (o.w.f) + red jade S-5BL 0.9% (o.w.f), pH4.6, 130 ℃, 50 min; and (4) dyeing with navy blue.
(3) Vortex compact spinning process conditions: the fibers opened into single fibers are coagulated and twisted into yarn by the air vortex action, the core fibers of the yarn are arranged in parallel without twist degree, and the tail end fibers are wrapped and wound by the action of the rotating air flow and are twisted outside the core fibers to form the yarn.
(4) The proportion of the first loose fibers to the second loose fibers is as follows: experiments were conducted in which a cotton-polyester yarn was composed of two colors (two dyeing methods, i.e., disperse dye dyeing and sulfur dyeing, and not limited to two colors for dyeing) as typified by 10:90, 20:80, 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30, 80:20, and 90:10 for the ratio of the first loose fiber to the second loose fiber (mass ratio of the first loose fiber to the second loose fiber).
The experimental structure shows that: the characteristics based on different components are more obvious, such as higher fiber color fastness and bright color after dyeing by disperse dyes, the yarn is suitable for being used as bright yarn and finished cloth, and the effects of gradient color, old color, white grinding (which is the requirement of denim yarn on color) and the like are not ideal enough; the color of the sulfur dye is dark, and the color is not bright; the control of the ratio must therefore be very critical to ensure compatibility in appearance and compatibility in physical properties. When the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 30-65:70-35, the cooperation effect of the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II is better, and particularly when the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 40:60, the using effect (mechanical property and apparent effect) of the yarn is optimal. The color fastness of the cloth woven by the cotton polyester yarn is more than 4 grade, the effects of pocking marks, old washing and the like can be realized on the surface, in the using washing process, when parts such as vulcanization and the like are faded along with washing, most of the dyes such as dispersion and the like are finally left, the contrast is obvious, the fabric has the effect of being more bright when being washed, the effect of the vulcanization part is exerted, and the defect of dark color is overcome.
Further, experiments were also conducted on the three-color composition of the cotton-polyester series, and three-color (including vulcanization dyeing, dispersion dyeing, and natural color, but not limited to three colors) was performed using the ratios (mass ratios) of the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber, and the third loose fiber as representatives of 10:80:10, 20:70:10, 25:65:10, 30:60:10, 30:50:20, 20:60:20, 25:55:20, 25:50:25, 30:45:25, 35:40:25, 40:35:25, 45:30:25, 45:25:30, 50:20:30, and 60:10:30, respectively. A trend similar to dichroism appears: the effect is better when the mass ratio of the loose fiber I, the loose fiber II and the loose fiber III is 30-50:25-40:10-30, and the best ratio is 45:30: 25.
2) Influence of different dyeing processes on performance of cotton-polyester jean fabric
Taking the scheme of the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II as an example,
the loose fiber is formed by dyeing cotton fiber with sulfur dye, the loose fiber is formed by dyeing terylene with disperse dye, the two loose fibers are blended into yarn, the resultant yarn is formed by vortex compact spinning, and the cotton polyester yarn is formed into the jean fabric by knitting.
The disperse dye adopts composite dye, and the disperse dye dyeing process can adopt the following steps: dark blue H-GL 2.6% + orange S-EC 1.43% + red jade S-5BL 0.9%, pH4.6, 130 ℃, 50 min; dark blue H-GL 2.0% + orange S-EC 1.2% + red jade S-5BL 1.5%, pH4, 120 ℃, 40 min; dark blue H-GL 3.0% + orange S-EC 0.7% + red jade S-5BL 2.3%, pH5, 135 deg.C, 50 min.
The dyeing process of the sulfur dye comprises the following steps: the concentration of the sulfur dye is 10-30% (such as 10%, 12%, 16%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 25%, 30%), the pH of the dye solution is 10-13 (such as 10, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13), the dyeing treatment is carried out for 50-80min (such as 50min, 55min, 60min, 65min, 70min, 80min) at 90-120 ℃ (such as 85 ℃, 90 ℃, 95 ℃, 100 ℃, 102 ℃, 105 ℃, 110 ℃, 120 ℃), the consumption of the sulfur dye is determined to be 16-20% (owf), the pH of the dye solution is 11-12.5, and the dyeing treatment is carried out for 55-65min at 95-105 ℃.
Wherein the sulfur dye can be selected from any one of commercially available deep blue sulfide 3R, Baolan sulfide CV, red brown sulfide B3R, sulfur ash, yellow brown sulfide 5G, red LGF sulfide, dark green sulfide 511, bright green sulfide 7713, dark brown sulfide GD, grass green sulfide 715, black BR sulfide, blue BRN sulfide, red sauce sulfide 3B or red GGF sulfide.
The dyed yarns were knitted to form a denim fabric and tested for color fastness, with the results shown in table 3.
TABLE 3 color fastness of denim fabric under different dyeing processes
The color fastness of the cloth formed by the scheme is more than 4 grades, the fiber dyeing rate of cotton and polyester dyed by different dyes is different, and pockmarks exist on the surface of the final cotton-polyester yarn obtained by the method, so that the fabric shown in figure 2 is obtained.
Example 3: cotton nitrile jean fabric
The flow of this example is summarized as follows:
1) dyeing cotton fibers by using a sulfur dye to form a loose fiber I; 2) dyeing the acrylic fibers by using a cationic dye to form a second loose fiber;
3) blending the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II into cotton polyester dyed yarns; 4) and (5) weaving.
The following is an analysis of specific parameters.
1) Effect of raw Material composition on Cotton nitrile yarn Properties
Cotton nitrile yarns are divided into two forms:
(1) the loose fibers I and the loose fibers II;
(2) the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber and the third loose fiber.
In the application, the loose fibers are cotton fibers dyed by sulfur dyes, the loose fibers are acrylic fibers dyed by cationic dyes, and the loose fibers are cotton fibers in the original color, so that the influence of the mixture ratio is compared and analyzed.
1. The process flow comprises the following steps: the cotton fiber is dyed by sulfur dye to form a first loose fiber, the acrylic fiber is dyed by disperse composite dye to form a second loose fiber, and the first loose fiber and the second loose fiber are spun tightly by vortex to obtain the cotton nitrile yarn.
2. Description of the parameters
(1) 1, loose fiber I: vulcanized black BR 16% (o.w.f), pH 12, 102 ℃, 55 min; and (5) dyeing black.
(2) And (2) loose fibers: blue X-BL0.0145+ Red X-6B0.0275, pH4, 100 ℃, 30 min; and dyeing purple.
(3) The ring spinning process conditions are as follows: the low-speed vortex spinning is adopted, the speed is controlled at 350m/min, the feeding ratio is 0.97, so that cohesive force is reduced, the glittering effect is increased, and the drafting in the rear zone is properly reduced, so that accidental drafting is controlled.
(4) The proportion of the first loose fibers to the second loose fibers is as follows: the experiments of composing cotton-nitrile yarns with two colors (two dyeing modes, namely cationic dye dyeing and sulfur dyeing, but not limited to dyeing with two colors) were carried out by respectively adopting the proportion of the first loose fiber to the second loose fiber (the mass ratio of the first loose fiber to the second loose fiber) of 10:90, 20:80, 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30, 80:20 and 90:10 as representatives.
The experimental structure shows that: the characteristics based on different components are more obvious, such as higher fiber color fastness and bright color after cationic dye dyeing, the yarn is suitable for being used as bright yarn and finished cloth, and the effects of fading, old color making, white grinding (which is the requirement of denim yarn on color) and the like are not ideal enough; the color of the sulfur dye is dark, and the color is not bright; the control of the ratio must therefore be very critical to ensure compatibility in appearance and compatibility in physical properties. When the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 30-65:70-35, the cooperation effect of the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II is better, and particularly when the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 40:60, the using effect (mechanical property and apparent effect) of the yarn is optimal. The color fastness of the cloth woven by the cotton nitrile yarn is more than 4 grade, the effects of pocking marks, old washing and the like can be realized on the surface, in the using washing process, when parts such as vulcanization and the like are washed away with water, most of dyes such as cations and the like are finally left, the contrast is obvious, the fabric has the effect of being more bright when being washed, the effect of the vulcanized parts is exerted, and the defect of dark color is overcome.
Further, experiments were also conducted on the three-color composition of the cotton-polyester series, and three-color (including vulcanization dyeing, dispersion dyeing, and natural color, but not limited to three colors) was performed using the ratios (mass ratios) of the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber, and the third loose fiber as representatives of 10:80:10, 20:70:10, 25:65:10, 30:60:10, 30:50:20, 20:60:20, 25:55:20, 25:50:25, 30:45:25, 35:40:25, 40:35:25, 45:30:25, 45:25:30, 50:20:30, and 60:10:30, respectively. A trend similar to dichroism appears: the effect is better when the mass ratio of the loose fiber I, the loose fiber II and the loose fiber III is 30-50:25-40:10-30, and the best ratio is 45:30: 25.
2) Effect of different dyeing processes on denim fabric performance
Taking the scheme of the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II as an example,
the loose fiber is formed by dyeing cotton fiber with sulfur dye, the loose fiber is formed by dyeing acrylic fiber with cationic dye, the two loose fibers are blended into yarn, the finished yarn is formed into cotton nitrile yarn by ring spinning, and the cotton nitrile yarn is woven into the jean fabric.
The cationic dye adopts composite dye, and the dyeing process of the cationic dye can adopt the following steps: (1) blue X-BL0.0145+ Red X-6B0.0275, pH4, 100 ℃, 30 min; (2) blue X-BL 1.23+ red X-GRL 0.61, pH4.6, 130 ℃, 50 min.
The dyeing process of the sulfur dye comprises the following steps: the concentration of the sulfur dye is 10-30% (such as 10%, 12%, 16%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 25%, 30%), the pH of the dye solution is 10-13 (such as 10, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13), the dyeing treatment is carried out for 50-80min (such as 50min, 55min, 60min, 65min, 70min, 80min) at 90-120 ℃ (such as 85 ℃, 90 ℃, 95 ℃, 100 ℃, 102 ℃, 105 ℃, 110 ℃, 120 ℃), the consumption of the sulfur dye is determined to be 16-20% (owf), the pH of the dye solution is 11-12.5, and the dyeing treatment is carried out for 55-65min at 95-105 ℃.
Wherein the sulfur dye can be selected from any one of commercially available deep blue sulfide 3R, Baolan sulfide CV, red brown sulfide B3R, sulfur ash, yellow brown sulfide 5G, red LGF sulfide, dark green sulfide 511, bright green sulfide 7713, dark brown sulfide GD, grass green sulfide 715, black BR sulfide, blue BRN sulfide, red sauce sulfide 3B or red GGF sulfide.
The yarns formed by the above process were woven to form a face fabric and tested for color fastness, with the results shown in table 4.
TABLE 4 color fastness of cotton nitrile yarns at different dyeing processes
The color fastness of the cloth is more than 4 grade, the fiber dyeing rate of the cotton and the nitrile formed by dyeing different dyes is different, pockmarks exist on the surface of the final cotton nitrile yarn obtained by adopting the method, and the fabric shown in figure 3 is obtained by continuously weaving.
Example 4: cotton-nylon jean fabric
The flow of this example is summarized as follows:
1) dyeing cotton fibers by using a sulfur dye to form a loose fiber I;
2) dyeing chinlon by using acid dye to form a second loose fiber;
3) blending the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II into cotton-nylon colored yarns;
4) and (5) weaving.
The following combination cases were analyzed for specific parameters.
1) Influence of raw Material composition on Cotton and Nylon yarn Performance
In this embodiment, the cotton-nylon yarn is divided into two forms:
(1) the loose fibers I and the loose fibers II;
(2) the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber and the third loose fiber.
In this application, loose fiber is the cotton fiber of sulphur dye dyeing firstly, loose fiber is the polyamide fibre of acid dye dyeing secondly, and loose fiber is third true color cotton fiber, carries out comparative analysis with regard to the influence of ratio below.
1. The process flow comprises the following steps: the cotton fiber is dyed by adopting a sulfur dye to form a first loose fiber, the nylon fiber is dyed by adopting a disperse composite dye to form a second loose fiber, and the first loose fiber and the second loose fiber are tightly spun by adopting vortex to obtain the cotton-nylon yarn.
2. Description of the parameters
(1) 1, loose fiber I: 15% of vulcanized black BR (o.w.f), pH 12, 108 ℃ and 50 min; and (5) dyeing black.
(2) And (2) loose fibers: black 2-S-LD 3.8, pH4.5, 100 deg.C, 60 min; and (5) dyeing black.
(3) The ring spinning process conditions are as follows: the low-speed vortex spinning is adopted, the speed is controlled at 350m/min, the feeding ratio is 0.97, so that cohesive force is reduced, the glittering effect is increased, and the drafting in the rear zone is properly reduced, so that accidental drafting is controlled.
(4) The proportion of the first loose fibers to the second loose fibers is as follows: the experiments of forming the cotton-nylon yarn by using two colors (two dyeing modes, namely acid dye dyeing and sulfur dyeing, but not limited to dyeing colors) are carried out by respectively adopting the proportion of the first loose fiber to the second loose fiber (the mass ratio of the first loose fiber to the second loose fiber) of 10:90, 20:80, 30:70, 40:60, 50:50, 60:40, 70:30, 80:20 and 90:10 as representatives.
The experimental structure shows that: the characteristics based on different components are more obvious, such as higher color fastness and bright color of fibers dyed by acid dyes, the yarn is suitable for being used as bright yarn and finished cloth, and the effects of fading, old color making, white grinding (which is the requirement of denim yarn on color) and the like are not ideal enough; the color of the sulfur dye is dark, and the color is not bright; the control of the ratio must therefore be very critical to ensure compatibility in appearance and compatibility in physical properties. When the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 40-50:50-60, the cooperation effect of the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II is better, and particularly when the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 60:40, the use effect (mechanical property and apparent effect) of the yarn is optimal. The color fastness of the cotton-nylon yarn is in level 4, the effects of pocking marks, washing old and the like can be realized on the surface, in the using washing process, when parts such as vulcanization and the like are faded along with washing, most of the dyes such as acid and the like are finally left, the contrast is obvious, the fabric has the effect of being more bright when being washed, the effect of the vulcanized parts is exerted, and the defect of dark color is overcome.
Further, experiments were also conducted on three-color compositions of the cotton-nylon series, and three-color compositions (including, but not limited to, three colors) were conducted using the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber, and the third loose fiber in proportions (mass ratio) of 10:80:10, 20:70:10, 25:65:10, 30:60:10, 30:50:20, 20:60:20, 25:55:20, 25:50:25, 30:45:25, 35:40:25, 40:35:25, 45:30:25, 45:25:30, 50:20:30, and 60:10:30, respectively, as representatives. A trend similar to dichroism appears: the effect is better when the mass ratio of the loose fiber I, the loose fiber II and the loose fiber III is 30-50:25-40:10-30, and the best ratio is 45:30: 25.
2) Effect of different dyeing processes on denim fabric performance
Taking the scheme of the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II as an example,
the loose fiber is formed by dyeing cotton fiber with sulfur dye, the loose fiber is formed by dyeing chinlon with acid dye, the two loose fibers are blended into yarn, the finished yarn adopts ring spinning, and cotton polyester yarn is knitted to form the jean fabric.
The acid dye adopts composite dye, and the dyeing process of the acid dye can adopt the following steps: (1) black 2-S-LD 3.8%, pH4.5, 100 deg.C, 60min, black; (2) dark blue M-2GE 0.08% + yellow 3RS 1.6% + red 3BS 3.5%, pH4.5, 100 deg.C, 50min, dye mauve.
The dyeing process of the sulfur dye comprises the following steps: the concentration of the sulfur dye is 12-25% (such as 10%, 12%, 15%, 18%, 20%, 22%, 25%), the pH of the dye solution is 10-13 (such as 10, 11, 11.5, 12, 12.5, 13), the dyeing treatment is carried out for 50-80min (such as 50min, 55min, 60min, 65min, 70min, 80min) at 90-120 ℃ (such as 85 ℃, 90 ℃, 95 ℃, 100 ℃, 102 ℃, 105 ℃, 110 ℃, 120 ℃), the dosage of the sulfur dye is determined to be 16-20% (owf), the pH of the dye solution is 11-12.5, and the dyeing treatment is carried out for 55-65min at 95-105 ℃. The usage amount of the sulfur dye is 15-20%, the pH value of the dye solution is 11-12.5, and the dyeing treatment is carried out at 100-105 ℃ for 55-65 min.
Wherein the sulfur dye can be selected from any one of commercially available deep blue sulfide 3R, Baolan sulfide CV, red brown sulfide B3R, sulfur ash, yellow brown sulfide 5G, red LGF sulfide, dark green sulfide 511, bright green sulfide 7713, dark brown sulfide GD, grass green sulfide 715, black BR sulfide, blue BRN sulfide, red sauce sulfide 3B or red GGF sulfide.
The dyed yarns were subjected to a color fastness test, and the results are shown in table 5.
TABLE 5 color fastness of denim fabric under different dyeing processes
The color fastness of the jean fabric is near 4 level, the fibers dyed by cotton and brocade with different dyes have different dye uptake, and the surface of the jean fabric obtained by the method has pockmarks.
The obtained fabric can realize the effects of vintage, washing old and the like, and in the washing process, the part such as pattern vulcanization and the like is washed away with water, most of the dyes such as dispersion and the like are remained finally, the contrast is obvious, so that the black jean fabric has the effect of washing old and old as shown in figure 5, and the color jean fabric has the effect of washing bright and bright as shown in figure 6.
Compared with the conventional dyeing (cotton fiber and cotton polyester fiber) mode, the scheme avoids the use of a large amount of sulfur dyes which are easy to discolor, not only solves the biggest problem of waste water in the printing and dyeing field, but also realizes the special effect that the final fabric is more bright when being washed more and more by keeping the special effects of the sulfur dyes in the fields of jean yarns and the like through the matching of different fibers and different dyeing methods and the matching property among the fibers after dyeing.
Claims (10)
1. The production process of the clean denim fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: loose fiber dyeing-composite spinning-weaving, wherein:
(1) dyeing loose fibers: the fibril of the first loose fiber is dyed by reactive dye, disperse dye, acid dye, cationic dye or vat dye, the fibril of the second loose fiber is dyed by direct dye or sulfur dye to form a second loose fiber with different color fastness and vividness from the loose fiber, the different loose fibers are matched with different dyes to form two yarn forming raw materials with high color fastness and poor color fastness,
(2) composite spinning: the loose fiber I and the loose fiber II are blended according to the proportion to form the dyed yarn,
(3) weaving: the dyed yarns are woven into grey cloth, and then the production of the jean fabric with different antique effects is realized through different water washing degrees.
2. The production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the mass ratio of the loose fiber I to the loose fiber II is 30-65: 70-35.
3. The production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing or directly dyeing viscose or cotton fiber, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing viscose, cotton fiber, modal or tencel with reactive dye or vat dye;
alternatively, the first and second electrodes may be,
the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing viscose or cotton fiber or dyeing with direct dye, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing polyester with disperse dye;
alternatively, the first and second electrodes may be,
the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing or directly dyeing viscose or cotton fiber, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing acrylic fiber or cationic fiber with cationic dye;
alternatively, the first and second electrodes may be,
the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing or directly dyeing viscose or cotton fiber, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing nylon or protein fiber by reactive dye or acid dye.
4. The production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing or directly dyeing plant fiber, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing the plant fiber by reactive or vat dye;
alternatively, the first and second electrodes may be,
the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing or directly dyeing plant fiber, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing terylene with disperse dye;
alternatively, the first and second electrodes may be,
the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing or directly dyeing plant fiber, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing acrylic fiber or cationic fiber with cationic dye;
alternatively, the first and second electrodes may be,
the loose fiber is formed by vulcanizing or directly dyeing plant fiber, and the loose fiber is formed by dyeing nylon, tencel or protein fiber by reactive dye.
5. The production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the fibril of the first loose fiber is selected from any one or more of plant fiber, terylene, modified terylene, viscose fiber, modal fiber, tencel, acrylic fiber, chinlon, real silk, protein fiber and wool fiber.
6. The production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the fibrils of the second loose fibers are selected from any one or more of plant fibers, viscose fibers, modal fibers and tencel fibers.
7. The production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the loose fibers are obtained by the following fibril and dyeing modes:
8. the production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the second loose fiber is obtained by the following fibril and dyeing modes:
9. the production process of the clean denim fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that: also comprises a third loose fiber which is provided with a third loose fiber,
the loose fiber III is natural fiber, and is selected from any one or more of plant fiber, terylene, modified terylene, viscose fiber, modal fiber, tencel, acrylic fiber, chinlon, real silk, protein fiber and wool fiber;
alternatively, the first and second electrodes may be,
the three-color fastness of the first loose fiber, the second loose fiber and the third loose fiber is different, and the third loose fiber is obtained by the following fibril and dyeing modes:
and the fibrils of the loose fibers III are selected from any one or more of plant fibers, viscose fibers, modal fibers and tencel fibers.
10. The production process of the clean denim fabric according to claim 9, characterized in that: the mass ratio of the loose fiber I, the loose fiber II and the loose fiber III is 30-50:25-40: 10-30.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN2020110467523 | 2020-09-29 | ||
| CN202011046752 | 2020-09-29 |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CN113293473A true CN113293473A (en) | 2021-08-24 |
| CN113293473B CN113293473B (en) | 2022-12-20 |
Family
ID=77080861
Family Applications (6)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202110695544.4A Active CN113249842B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of cotton polyester yarn |
| CN202110695527.0A Active CN113215702B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of cotton nitrile yarn |
| CN202110695530.2A Active CN113293473B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Production process of clean denim fabric |
| CN202110695537.4A Active CN113249841B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of cotton-nylon yarns |
| CN202110695543.XA Active CN113293474B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of plant yarn |
| CN202111134752.3A Active CN113638101B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-09-27 | Composite spinning process of viscose yarn |
Family Applications Before (2)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202110695544.4A Active CN113249842B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of cotton polyester yarn |
| CN202110695527.0A Active CN113215702B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of cotton nitrile yarn |
Family Applications After (3)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN202110695537.4A Active CN113249841B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of cotton-nylon yarns |
| CN202110695543.XA Active CN113293474B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-06-23 | Composite spinning process of plant yarn |
| CN202111134752.3A Active CN113638101B (en) | 2020-09-29 | 2021-09-27 | Composite spinning process of viscose yarn |
Country Status (1)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| CN (6) | CN113249842B (en) |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115595806A (en) * | 2022-10-31 | 2023-01-13 | 浙江理工大学桐乡研究院有限公司（Cn） | Multi-component blended fabric garment dyeing process |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102493067A (en) * | 2011-11-11 | 2012-06-13 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Manufacturing technology for yarn with cowboy style |
| CN104532605A (en) * | 2013-10-29 | 2015-04-22 | 泰州吉泰毛纺织染厂 | A method of preparing a color-mixed colorized pattern-carrying fabric based on color matching of primary color fibers |
| CN104878619A (en) * | 2015-04-28 | 2015-09-02 | 常州纺织服装职业技术学院 | Pre-treatment and dyeing method for natural crystal fibers and blended or interwoven products of natural crystal fibers and other fibers |
| CN106368018A (en) * | 2015-07-21 | 2017-02-01 | 肖和云 | Loose fiber dyed denim fabric production process |
| CN111364257A (en) * | 2020-04-22 | 2020-07-03 | 山东兰雁纺织服装有限公司 | Preparation process of colorfast jean fabric |
Family Cites Families (15)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP0583745A1 (en) * | 1992-08-18 | 1994-02-23 | Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft | Process for dyeing cellulose fibers with sulfur dyes |
| CN1324176C (en) * | 2003-05-08 | 2007-07-04 | 宁波百隆纺织有限公司 | Dyeing and spinning method for loose cotton fiber |
| CN202337856U (en) * | 2011-11-11 | 2012-07-18 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Yarn and fabric with jean style |
| CN102605656B (en) * | 2012-02-13 | 2013-08-14 | 杭州航民达美染整有限公司 | Staining method suitable for blended fabrics prepared from polyester fibers, viscose fibers and modified polyester fibers |
| CN102758363B (en) * | 2012-07-12 | 2014-08-27 | 浙江华孚色纺有限公司 | Multi-color blended yarn and fabric and production method thereof |
| CN103469403B (en) * | 2013-08-29 | 2016-03-09 | 浙江华孚色纺有限公司 | A kind of Novel polyester imitation cotton fiber blended color spinning yarn and production method thereof |
| CN103541081B (en) * | 2013-11-01 | 2015-11-18 | 百隆东方股份有限公司 | A kind of preparation method of heterochromatic polyester-cotton blend melange yarn |
| CN103696085A (en) * | 2013-12-16 | 2014-04-02 | 江苏波波熊纺织品有限公司 | Jean fabric and production method thereof |
| CN104480746B (en) * | 2014-12-01 | 2017-07-18 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | A kind of cotton and polyamide fibre blending or interwoven fabric one-bath one-step dyeing dyeing |
| CN104862870A (en) * | 2015-06-03 | 2015-08-26 | 邱平 | Blended yarn weaving and ecological finishing method for silk-ramie fibers colored by vegetable dyes |
| CN107938107A (en) * | 2017-11-26 | 2018-04-20 | 新乡市护神特种织物有限公司 | A kind of nitrile cotton anti-static inflaming-retarding fabric and its manufacture method |
| CN110616578A (en) * | 2019-10-28 | 2019-12-27 | 百隆东方股份有限公司 | Method for manufacturing colored spun yarn for washing jean |
| CN110924189B (en) * | 2019-12-26 | 2024-05-28 | 利郎(中国)有限公司 | Cotton/polyester/acrylic blended fabric and production method thereof |
| CN111455518A (en) * | 2020-01-19 | 2020-07-28 | 苏州中纺学面料产业研究院 | Method for manufacturing colorful jean yarns, and fabric and garment manufactured by using yarns |
| CN113355926B (en) * | 2021-06-23 | 2022-11-04 | 绍兴国周纺织整理有限公司 | Continuous vulcanization dyeing process for loose fibers |
-
2021
- 2021-06-23 CN CN202110695544.4A patent/CN113249842B/en active Active
- 2021-06-23 CN CN202110695527.0A patent/CN113215702B/en active Active
- 2021-06-23 CN CN202110695530.2A patent/CN113293473B/en active Active
- 2021-06-23 CN CN202110695537.4A patent/CN113249841B/en active Active
- 2021-06-23 CN CN202110695543.XA patent/CN113293474B/en active Active
- 2021-09-27 CN CN202111134752.3A patent/CN113638101B/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN102493067A (en) * | 2011-11-11 | 2012-06-13 | 绍兴国周针织科技有限公司 | Manufacturing technology for yarn with cowboy style |
| CN104532605A (en) * | 2013-10-29 | 2015-04-22 | 泰州吉泰毛纺织染厂 | A method of preparing a color-mixed colorized pattern-carrying fabric based on color matching of primary color fibers |
| CN104878619A (en) * | 2015-04-28 | 2015-09-02 | 常州纺织服装职业技术学院 | Pre-treatment and dyeing method for natural crystal fibers and blended or interwoven products of natural crystal fibers and other fibers |
| CN106368018A (en) * | 2015-07-21 | 2017-02-01 | 肖和云 | Loose fiber dyed denim fabric production process |
| CN111364257A (en) * | 2020-04-22 | 2020-07-03 | 山东兰雁纺织服装有限公司 | Preparation process of colorfast jean fabric |
Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN115595806A (en) * | 2022-10-31 | 2023-01-13 | 浙江理工大学桐乡研究院有限公司（Cn） | Multi-component blended fabric garment dyeing process |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN113638101A (en) | 2021-11-12 |
| CN113249841A (en) | 2021-08-13 |
| CN113249841B (en) | 2022-10-28 |
| CN113249842B (en) | 2022-10-28 |
| CN113249842A (en) | 2021-08-13 |
| CN113293474A (en) | 2021-08-24 |
| CN113215702A (en) | 2021-08-06 |
| CN113638101B (en) | 2023-03-24 |
| CN113293474B (en) | 2022-12-20 |
| CN113215702B (en) | 2022-12-20 |
| CN113293473B (en) | 2022-12-20 |
Similar Documents
| Publication | Publication Date | Title |
|---|---|---|
| CN102493067B (en) | Manufacturing technology for yarn with cowboy style | |
| CN103952845B (en) | Moisture absorption heating quick-drying moisturizing thermal fabric and preparation method thereof | |
| CN102758363B (en) | Multi-color blended yarn and fabric and production method thereof | |
| CN105586687A (en) | Cotton-covered spandex T400 twin-core elastic series shell fabric | |
| CN101424053B (en) | Dyeing method | |
| KR20210122294A (en) | Denim fabric and uses thereof | |
| CN111534900A (en) | Production process of cool thin wool-like spinning fabric | |
| CN113293473B (en) | Production process of clean denim fabric | |
| CN202337856U (en) | Yarn and fabric with jean style | |
| CN112725969B (en) | Yarn for color-spun jean product, production method thereof and jean fabric formed by same | |
| CN104947274A (en) | Rayon fabric and preparation method thereof | |
| CN109554939B (en) | Indigo dyeing method of polyamide 56 fiber or polyamide 56/cotton blended fabric and product thereof | |
| CN106351028A (en) | Preparation and dyeing method for polyester fiber-flax fiber blended and dyed yarn | |
| CN113897797A (en) | Ancient silk weaving process | |
| CN113481740A (en) | Dyed jean fabric and preparation method thereof | |
| CN205420678U (en) | Indigo core dyeing cowherd cloth that does not pass through of polyester -cotton blend blending | |
| CN115369548A (en) | Active vintage color jean fabric and production process thereof | |
| CN112301501B (en) | Preparation method of easily-degradable differential auxiliary material and auxiliary material | |
| CN101403197B (en) | Colorful yarn | |
| CN212000073U (en) | Low shrinkage webbing | |
| CN113174679A (en) | Stock solution coloring bamboo fiber fabric and production method thereof | |
| CN214168266U (en) | Multi-component fiber colored spun fabric | |
| CN215850011U (en) | Double-layer printed corrosion-resistant composite fabric | |
| CN110735212A (en) | Weaving method of multicolor blended fabrics | |
| CN108411449A (en) | The production method of elastic force yarn-dyed flannel made of a kind of non-sanding finishing |
Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| PB01 | Publication | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| SE01 | Entry into force of request for substantive examination | ||
| TA01 | Transfer of patent application right | ||
| TA01 | Transfer of patent application right |
Effective date of registration: 20221101 Address after: 312000 plot 19, Keqiao Economic and Technological Development Zone (2019), Ma'an Town, Keqiao District, Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province Applicant after: Shaoxing Guozhou textile finishing Co.,Ltd. Address before: 312000 north of Haitang nanheng Road, Mashan Town, Yuecheng District, Shaoxing City, Zhejiang Province Applicant before: SHAOXING GUOZHOU TEXTILE NEW MATERIALS CO.,LTD. |
|
| GR01 | Patent grant | ||
| GR01 | Patent grant | ||
| PE01 | Entry into force of the registration of the contract for pledge of patent right | ||
| PE01 | Entry into force of the registration of the contract for pledge of patent right |
Denomination of invention: A production process for clean denim fabric Effective date of registration: 20231204 Granted publication date: 20221220 Pledgee: Zhejiang Shaoxing Hengxin Rural Commercial Bank Co.,Ltd. Mashan sub branch Pledgor: Shaoxing Guozhou textile finishing Co.,Ltd. Registration number: Y2023980068935 |