CN111364257A

CN111364257A - Preparation process of colorfast jean fabric

Info

Publication number: CN111364257A
Application number: CN202010322557.2A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 姜明; 刘霞; 贾科; 李辉; 陈联明; 杨帅; 张艳; ***
Original assignee: Shandong Lanyan Textile Garment Co ltd
Current assignee: Shandong Lanyan Textile Garment Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-04-22
Filing date: 2020-04-22
Publication date: 2020-07-03

Abstract

A preparation process of a colorfast jean fabric belongs to the technical field of jean fabric preparation. The main technical problems to be solved are that the existing jean fabric is single in color and not bright, or has no special white core effect of jeans under the condition of bright color, the pollution emission is high, and the color fastness is poor. The preparation method of the jean fabric which can be used as high-grade clothing and has the fashionable feeling of jeans under certain conditions has the advantages of high color fastness, rich colors and low pollution emission. The direct dye can be applied to the preparation of the jean fabric by mainly utilizing the coordination of a cation modifier, a penetrating agent, salt, a color fixing agent, a dry-wet rubbing fastness improver and a washing and dyeing textile process to improve the influence of the direct dye on the jean fabric, so that the colorfast jean fabric is prepared.

Description

Preparation process of colorfast jean fabric

Technical Field

A preparation process of a colorfast jean fabric belongs to the technical field of jean fabric preparation.

Background

The jean fabric is widely applied to daily leisure life. The common preparation process of the jean fabric comprises pretreatment, wetting, dyeing, water washing, weaving and finishing. Reactive dyes or sulfur dyes are commonly used as dyes for dyeing.

For a long time, the main color tone of the denim is unified with indigo, and the denim has the defects of serious pollution, huge emission and single color. The commonly used vulcanized dyeing varieties have dark color and poor fastness. The black color is the most main color spectrum, and the second color is blue, olive color and brown color, the color spectrum is few, the requirements of people in modern society on colorful colors are difficult to meet, meanwhile, the color light of the sulfur dye is not stable enough, the reproducibility is poor, and the colorful jean with bright color and good depth is difficult to obtain. Although the reactive dyeing has good color fastness, the reactive dyeing has no stereoscopic impression of the denim fabric, and has no white core effect after the warp yarn is rubbed by hands, so that the fashion sense of the denim fabric is lost.

The direct dye has the phenomena of serious color change and great color fastness loss caused by the damage of molecular structures in the conventional concept in various physical and chemical reactions, and is generally considered to be not suitable for dyeing high-grade jean fabrics.

In conclusion, the existing denim fabric preparation industry has the defects of single coloring color or dark color, unstable color light or lack of three-dimensional sense; amplifying pollution discharge; either having a white core effect but poor color fastness or good color fastness without the problem of a white core effect.

Disclosure of Invention

The technical problem to be solved by the invention is as follows: overcomes the defects of the prior art, and provides a preparation process of the jean fabric which has high color fastness, rich and bright colors, stable color light, and stereoscopic impression and white core effect.

The technical scheme adopted by the invention for solving the technical problems is as follows:

a preparation process of a colorfast jean fabric adopts a sheet dyeing mode and comprises the following steps:

1) boiling; 2) washing with water; 3) dyeing; 4) soaping; 5) washing with water; 6) fixing color; 7) drying; 8) weaving and finishing.

Wherein, a cation modifier is added in the boiling process, so that the concentration of the cation modifier in boiling water is 30-50 g/L, and the boiling time is 20 s.

The direct dye is subsequently adsorbed to the surface by the fiber in solution and then continuously diffuses toward the amorphous regions of the fiber, forming hydrogen bonds and van der waals bonds with the fiber macromolecules. By adding the cationic modifiers with different concentrations, the direct dye is only impregnated and diffused on the surface of the fiber, so that the white core effect is increased, and meanwhile, the hydrogen bonds and van der Waals forces of the direct dye and the cellulose fiber on the surface are enhanced, and the color fastness is improved.

Wherein the dyed dye component comprises: direct dye, dry and wet rubbing fastness improver, penetrant and salt, wherein the dyeing temperature is 90-100 ℃.

Wherein, the concentration of the direct dye is 5-20 g/L, the concentration of the penetrating agent is 3-7 g/L, the concentration of the salt and the concentration of the direct dye are 1: 1.

wherein the salt comprises anhydrous sodium sulphate or common salt or a mixture of the anhydrous sodium sulphate and the common salt in any proportion.

Wherein the dye-uptake passes through two dye baths.

The concentration of the direct dye and the dip dyeing time can be adjusted according to the depth and the required white core effect.

The direct dye is not hard water resistant, most of the direct dye can be combined with calcium and magnesium ions to generate insoluble precipitates, so that stains are generated on dyed fabrics, and therefore the direct dye needs to be dissolved by soft water. The addition of soda ash can improve the solubility of direct dye and soften hard water.

The direct dye dissociates into pigment anion in the solution to dye the cellulose fiber, the cellulose fiber also has negative charge in water, charge repulsion exists between the dye and the fiber, and the salt is added into the dye liquor, so that the charge repulsion can be reduced, and the dye-uptake rate and the dye-uptake percentage can be improved. The salt has obvious dyeing promotion effect, and the salt is added in batches during dyeing promotion so as to ensure that the dye is uniformly dyed. The direct dye with low dye-uptake percentage needs to add more salt, and the specific dosage can be determined according to the variety of the dye and the dyeing depth. The light color product with high level dyeing requirement should reduce the salt dosage properly to avoid uneven local dyeing and dyeing defects such as dyeing defects, etc., and the anhydrous sodium sulphate is selected to achieve the best dyeing effect in the process, and the dosage is adjusted according to the color and the depth.

Wherein, the cloth is soaked in a wet-dry friction fastness improver with the concentration of 25-35 g/L in a preshrinking machine in the post-finishing process.

Preferably, the color fixing agent is used for fixing color at a concentration of 30-50 g/L for 20-25 s after twice color fixing.

Preferably, the concentration of the cationic modifier in the scouring water is 30-50 g/L.

Preferably, the concentration of the cationic modifier in the scouring water is 40 g/L.

Preferably, the yarn is a pure cotton yarn or a viscose yarn.

Preferably, the yarn dyeing temperature is 95 ℃. The dyeing rate and the color fastness can be influenced by overhigh or overlow temperature, the physical structure performance of the denim fabric fiber can be influenced by overhigh temperature, and the fiber has serious hairiness.

Preferably, the direct dye is dissolved with soft water having a hardness of less than 60 ppm.

Preferably, the penetrating time of the penetrating agent is 7-9 min. The performance parameters of the penetrant can influence the depth of the fibers dyed by the direct dye, and the penetrant with short penetration time can lead the direct dye to quickly dip-dye the outer fibers to cause the outer fibers to lose white cores and lose the old whitening feeling of the jean fabric, and has thick and uneven color; the penetrant with excessive penetration time has insufficient fiber dip dyeing, poor color fastness, white core too large to be white, and low fabric appearance grade.

Preferably, the yarns are dip-dyed in each groove for 20-25 s in the dyeing process.

Preferably, the weaving in the step 8) adopts a rapier machine.

The traditional air-jet loom weaves the fabric, because the yarn has detwisted when the weft is inserted, the yarn hairiness is more, the cloth surface lines are not clear, the rapier loom is changed to increase the fabric tension by adjusting the height of the heald frame and the back beam or the on-machine tension, the texture and the stereoscopic impression between the warp and the weft are highlighted, and the fabric impression grade is increased.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the beneficial effects that: breaks through the concept that the traditional direct dye is not suitable for high-grade jean fabric, and ensures that the direct dye is applied to the jean fabric to achieve and exceed the color fastness of the traditional dye without influencing the texture; the denim fabric with rich colors and bright colors can be prepared by changing the color of the direct dye, so that the grade of the denim fabric is increased, and the denim fabric can be used for manufacturing high-end customized clothes such as business formal dresses; meanwhile, the proper white core effect of the denim fabric is kept, the layering sense of the fabric is increased, the denim sense can be reflected by the mechanical grinding and distressing at the downstream, and the same fabric can be used as a high-grade fabric and can be used as fashionable and casual clothes through treatment; the penetrant, the cation modifier and the dry-wet rubbing fastness improver are used in a matching manner, so that the fabric is less faded in frequent washing, the sulfur impurities or dyes dissolved in water are greatly reduced, COD (chemical oxygen demand) emission is reduced by 10-30%, the water change amount of a washing process is further saved, 20-50% of water can be saved, and the dye is uniform in color and high in color fastness.

Detailed Description

Example 1 is the best embodiment of the present invention, and the present invention will be further explained with reference to the following examples.

The modifier used in the following examples is a cationic modifier FST IND NEW from the Jiang industry (Zhuhai) Co., Ltd, direct dye from the Jiang industry (Zhuhai) Co., Ltd, dye liquor to bath ratio of 1: 10, the penetrant is ZD-128 produced by Yixing Zhongda chemical industry, the foamless soaping agent, the color fixing agent and the dry-wet rubbing fastness improver are purchased from BOXING HONGQING worker and trade company Limited, the model of the foamless soaping agent is TS-XH, the model of the color fixing agent is TS-LX, the model of the dry-wet rubbing fastness improver is TS-890, all water is from a hard water softening pool for weaving wild gooses, all used weaving machines are YidaR 9500 rapier machines, and the hardness average value is 50ppm by EDTA titration detection.

Example 1

A preparation method of a colorfast jean fabric adopts GREY MILITARY C-D OVD military gray as a direct dye.

The dye uptake dye concentrations were as follows:

military ash 8.3g/L

8.3g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate

Sodium carbonate 5g/L

3g/L penetrant

The preparation steps are as follows:

1) boiling: scouring the pure cotton yarn for 20s at 60 ℃ and 0.4psi, wherein a cation modifier is added into scouring water to ensure that the concentration of the cation modifier is 40 g/L;

2) washing with water, namely washing the three grooves with room temperature water, then floating the five empty grooves, and then dyeing the dye in a direct dye bar;

3) dyeing: dyeing twice at 95 ℃ for 22s each time;

4) soaping, namely entering a soaping tank, wherein the concentration of a foamless soaping agent is 5g/L,

5) washing and color fixing: then the mixture enters a color fixing agent with the concentration of 40g/L after two times of water washing, and the color is fixed for 22s each time;

6) drying: finally drying for 70s at 120 ℃ in a drying barrel;

7) weaving: the rapier loom is an R9500 rapier loom and is woven and formed by warp yarns 12+ R11 and bamboo weft yarns T/C18+40 DD.

8) And (3) after finishing: and (3) after finishing the cloth in a pre-shrinking machine, and adding 30g/L of dry and wet rubbing fastness improver into the pre-shrinking machine.

And (5) drying and forming.

Example 2

A preparation method of a colorfast jean fabric is characterized in that a BROWN DIRTY C-D OVD DIRTY BROWN direct dye is selected as a direct dye.

The dye uptake dye concentrations were as follows:

dirty brown 20g/L

20g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate

Sodium carbonate 5g/L

Penetrant 7g/L

1) Boiling: scouring the pure cotton yarn for 20s at 60 ℃ and 0.4psi, wherein a cation modifier is added into scouring water to ensure that the concentration of the cation modifier is 50 g/L;

2) washing with water, namely washing the three grooves with room temperature water, then floating the five empty grooves, and then feeding the dye into a direct dye bar for dyeing;

3) dyeing: dyeing twice at 100 ℃ for 22s each time;

4) soaping, namely entering a soaping pool, wherein the concentration of a foamless soaping agent is 5 g/L;

5) washing and color fixing: after two times of washing, the mixture enters a color fixing agent with the concentration of 40g/L, and after two times of color fixing, each time lasts for 20 s;

6) drying: finally drying the mixture for 80s at 110 ℃ in a drying barrel;

7) weaving: the rapier loom is characterized in that a rapier loom meeting the requirements of R9500 is used, and is formed by weaving warp yarns 12+ R11 and bamboo weft yarns T/C18+40 DD;

8) and (3) after finishing: and (3) after finishing the cloth in a preshrinking machine, and adding 25g/L of dry and wet rubbing fastness improver into the preshrinking machine.

And (5) drying and forming.

Example 3

A method for preparing colorfast jean fabric uses Venice red, dark blue and blackberry as direct dyes.

The dye uptake dye concentrations were as follows:

venice Red 3.75g/L

Dark blue 3.375 g/L

Blackberry 0.375 g/L

Anhydrous sodium sulphate 7.5g/L

Sodium carbonate 5g/L

3g/L penetrant

1) Boiling: scouring viscose yarn for 20s at 60 ℃ and 0.4psi, wherein a cation modifier is added into scouring water to ensure that the concentration of the cation modifier is 30 g/L;

3) dyeing: dyeing twice at 90 ℃ for 22s each time;

5) washing and color fixing: after two times of washing, the mixture enters a color fixing agent with the concentration of 40g/L, and after two times of color fixing, 22s are carried out each time;

6) drying: finally drying the mixture for 60s at 120 ℃ in a drying barrel;

8) and (3) after finishing: and (3) after finishing the cloth in a preshrinking machine, and adding 35g/L of dry and wet rubbing fastness improver into the preshrinking machine.

And (5) drying and forming.

Example 4

A method for preparing a colorfast jean fabric.

Other conditions were the same as in example 1, except that the direct dye was changed to indigo

Comparative example 1

The dye uptake dye concentrations were as follows:

military ash 8.3g/L

8.3g/L of anhydrous sodium sulphate

Sodium carbonate 5g/L

3g/L penetrant

Boiling pure cotton yarns for 20s at 60 ℃ and 0.4psi pressure, adding a cationic modifier into boiling water to enable the concentration of the cationic modifier to be 20g/L, washing the pure cotton yarns with room-temperature water for three times, then floating the pure cotton yarns through five empty grooves, feeding the pure cotton yarns into a direct dye bar for dyeing twice at 95 ℃ for 22s each time, feeding the pure cotton yarns into a soaping tank, washing the pure cotton yarns with 5g/L of a foamless soaping agent, then washing the pure cotton yarns with two times, feeding the pure cotton yarns into a color fixing agent with 40g/L concentration, fixing the pure cotton yarns for 22s twice, and finally drying the pure cotton yarns in a drying barrel for 70s at 120 ℃.

The rapier loom is an R9500 rapier loom and is woven and formed by warp yarns 12+ R11 and bamboo weft yarns T/C18+40 DD.

And (3) after finishing the cloth in a pre-shrinking machine, and adding 30g/L of dry and wet rubbing fastness improver into the pre-shrinking machine.

And (5) drying and forming.

Comparative example 2

A method for preparing a colorfast jean fabric.

The other conditions were the same as in example 2 except that the concentration of the cationic modifier was changed to 60 g/L.

Comparative example 3

A method for preparing a colorfast jean fabric.

The other conditions were the same as in example 1 except that the penetrant concentration was changed to 10 g/L.

Performance testing

The detection method comprises the following steps: and (3) detecting the rubbing fastness: ISO105-X12

And (3) detecting the white core effect: the cloth sample is subjected to hand rubbing treatment before washing, and subjective manual observation and detection are carried out.

The results of the crockfastness test are shown in Table 1 below.

The white core can not be leaked by hand rubbing in the white core effect test of the comparative example 2 and the comparative example 3, the old-fashioned function of the denim fabric is completely lost, and the fabrics obtained by final drying have the phenomena of uneven dyeing and spots.

The final products of examples 1 and 4 were most vivid and bright in color, best meeting the intended target color, as observed by the naked eye.

The imported rapier loom is used instead, so that the phenomenon of fabric hairiness is reduced, the tension is increased to enable fibers to be protruded, the texture feeling, the stereoscopic impression and the integral flatness of the fabric are increased, and the integral grade of the fabric is improved.

The foregoing is directed to preferred embodiments of the present invention, other and further embodiments of the invention may be devised without departing from the basic scope thereof, and the scope thereof is determined by the claims that follow. However, any simple modification, equivalent change and modification of the above embodiments according to the technical essence of the present invention are within the protection scope of the technical solution of the present invention.

Claims

1. A preparation process of a colorfast jean fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: adopting a piece dyeing process, comprising the following steps:

1) boiling; 2) washing with water; 3) dyeing; 4) soaping; 5) washing with water; 6) fixing color; 7) drying; 8) weaving and finishing;

adding a cationic modifier into the boiling in the step 1);

the dyed dye component in the step 3) comprises: direct dye, penetrating agent and salt, wherein the dyeing temperature is 90-100 ℃;

wherein the salt comprises anhydrous sodium sulphate or common salt or a mixture of the anhydrous sodium sulphate and the common salt in any proportion;

the concentration of direct dye in the dye is 5-20 g/L, the concentration of penetrating agent is 3-7 g/L, and the concentration ratio of salt to direct dye is 1: 1;

and 8) adding a dry-wet rubbing fastness improver with the concentration of 25-35 g/L into the pre-shrinking machine for soaking.

2. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the concentration of the cationic modifier in the boiling water is 30-50 g/L.

3. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the concentration of the cation modifier in the boiled water is 40 g/L.

4. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the yarn uses pure cotton yarn or viscose yarn.

5. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the yarn dyeing temperature was 95 ℃.

6. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the penetrating time of the penetrating agent is 7-9 min.

7. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: the direct dye is dissolved by soft water, and the hardness of the soft water is lower than 60 ppm.

8. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: in the dyeing process, yarns pass through two dye baths and are dip-dyed in each dye bath for 20-25 s.

9. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: and 6), fixing color by adopting a fixing agent with the concentration of 30-50 g/L, and passing through two fixing tanks for 20-25 s each time.

10. The preparation process of the colorfast jean fabric according to claim 1, wherein: and 8) weaving by using a rapier machine.