CN113152119A - 一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的工艺及面料 - Google Patents

一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的工艺及面料 Download PDF

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CN113152119A
CN113152119A CN202110495174.XA CN202110495174A CN113152119A CN 113152119 A CN113152119 A CN 113152119A CN 202110495174 A CN202110495174 A CN 202110495174A CN 113152119 A CN113152119 A CN 113152119A
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scutching
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田剑
黄锡忠
陈荣洪
陈俊坚
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Guangdong King Rong Hua Industry Co ltd
Shantou Dingtaifeng Industrial Co ltd
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Shantou Dingtaifeng Industrial Co ltd
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Abstract

本发明实施例公开了一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法，包括以下步骤：将坯布进缸抛光处理，加入中性抛光酶处理，并通过灭活洗净；开幅轧水后开幅定型烘干，稳定门幅克重，以±3％缩率保布面平整下机；对折钉边保护正面进缸，在染涤分散染料时加入吸湿排汗助剂，待皂洗检验牢度与pH值达到要求时出缸；染后开幅轧水开幅定型，加入亲水性硅油与硬挺剂；预缩压光；检验包装。本发明实施例还公开了上述方法制得的面料。采用本发明，能够有效解决商务装针织面料两面色及色泽不饱和缺点、解决产生物理性碰伤激光痕、并保障不易吸附毛灰，且具有手感挻滑柔软的优点。

Description

一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的工艺及面料
本申请是申请日为2017年03月01日、申请号为201710115904.2、发明名称为《一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的工艺及面料》的分案申请。
技术领域
本发明涉及一种服装布料染色工艺，尤其涉及一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法及面料。
背景技术
现有的商务装采用梭织物，由于针织布料的弹性较梭织物好、更柔和、舒适透气性好、断裂延伸率、弹性回复率好；染整工艺中，加工难度较高、布面光泽度好，现有技术中存在将针织布料作为商务装的面料，现有的采用针织布加工工艺为：坯布剖布-烧毛-丝光-进缸中和洗布-开幅轧水-烘干-进缸染涤-抛光酶处理-还原洗-染棉-皂洗-开幅轧水-开幅定型加手感-预缩压光-检验包装，此加工过程中存在缺陷：经烧毛处理布，因涤纶纤维高温烧毛产生结晶后，有序排列，饱和度降低，经分散染料染色产生光泽，与棉纤维上色后形成正反色差；经开幅定型加大分子链硅油，在织物表面形成膜，用手触碰后易产生激光痕，生产过程中因需丝光及抛光处理，棉纤维内部易受损伤，布质***，另布在染缸里运行，易产生擦伤；预缩压光后表面形成光泽，与原色差相比，色变浅，不饱和，且易吸附灰尘，影响服用效果；染色每次重现性差，cvc烧毛后上色不同等。
发明内容
本发明实施例所要解决的技术问题在于，提供一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法。可解决两面色及色泽不饱和缺点、解决产生物理性碰伤激光痕、并保障不易吸附毛灰，手感挻滑柔软。
为了解决上述技术问题，本发明实施例提供了一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法，包括以下步骤：
S1：将坯布进缸抛光处理，加入中性抛光酶处理，并通过灭活洗净；
S2：开幅轧水后开幅定型烘干，稳定门幅克重，以±3％缩率保布面平整下机；
S3：对折钉边保护正面进缸，在染涤分散染料时加入吸湿排汗助剂，待皂洗检验牢度与pH值达到要求时出缸；
S4：染后开幅轧水开幅定型，加入亲水性硅油与硬挺剂；
S5：预缩压光；
S6：检验包装。
进一步地，步骤S1前还包括将坯布进行丝光的步骤，步骤S1包括加入酸中和的步骤。
更进一步地，所述丝光的步骤使用液碱浓度24-26°Bé，温度18-22℃下收缩，速度18-24m/min。
更进一步地，所述中性抛光酶活力单位2000，用量0.3％-0.4％。
进一步地，所述步骤S3的吸湿排汗助剂对布重加入量为1％-1.5％，保持温度130℃±2℃，作用时间30-45min。
更进一步地，所述步骤S3还包括用保险粉2-2.5g/L与纯碱4-5g/L，使用80℃±5℃作用20-25min，还原洗后染棉。
更进一步地，所述步骤S3还包括在对色达到要求后对布重加入浴中柔软剂1％-1.5％。
更进一步地，所述步骤S2采用180℃±5℃过水烘干，稳定门幅克重，以≤3％缩率保布面平整下机。
更进一步地，所述步骤S4所加入亲水性硅油为对布重4％±0.5％，硬挺剂1％±0.5％，两者混合液输入轧槽，在温度150℃±3℃，轧车压力2.5kg±0.5kg，速度18±2m/min，风量80％进行加工。
本发明实施例还公开了一种由上述的商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法加工所制得的面料。
实施本发明实施例，具有如下有益效果：本发明能够有效解决商务装针织面料两面色及色泽不饱和缺点、解决产生物理性碰伤激光痕、并保障不易吸附毛灰，且具有手感挻滑柔软的优点。
具体实施方式
为使本发明的目的、技术方案和优点更加清楚，下面将对本发明作进一步地详细描述。
本发明实施例的一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法，包括以下工艺步骤：坯布剖布-丝光-进缸抛光处理-开幅轧水-烘干-缝边保护正面-染涤-还原清洗-染棉-皂洗-开幅轧水-开幅定型-预缩压光-检验包装。
具体操作步骤如下：
1、坯布织造落布时剖开卷装：展开卷装减少坯布中折痕。
2、每批布丝光工艺统一稳定，制定标准作业规范，液碱浓度24-26°Bé，速度22±2m/min。使织物在浓碱液体，温度18-22℃下收缩，速度18-24m/min,采用四辊张力水槽，保持布平面松驰展开，60℃热水洗，再经胶辊压吸出机，使织物光泽提高、内应力消除、尺寸稳定性好、染料吸附能力高、织物平整度高、强力及延伸性服用性能改变；并记录进机出机门幅克重，便于成品规格的控制。
3、将坯布进缸抛光处理，在经地浓碱液丝光后，需酸中和(醋酸HAc，1g/L)，洗布后中性抛光处理，用中性抛光酶(诺维信)活力单位2000-2200，用量0.3％-0.4％对布重进行抛光处理，将表面毛羽去除，不损伤纤维强力，检测顶破强力≥300N以上，再灭活洗净(纯碱Na2CO3，0.5g/L)，检测pH值6-7.5出缸；与染色分开，布面毛灰等杂质洗净，进入后工序，减少毛灰杂质类与染色同浴产生染色不匀等现象。
可优选的是，在缸煮布加浴中柔软剂对布重为1％，中和洗布并抛光处理，并用纯碱灭活后洗干净出缸，减少布毛在缸内与布的磨擦产生擦伤。
4、开幅轧水后开幅定型烘干，采用180℃±5℃过水烘干，稳定门幅克重，以≤3％缩率保布面平整下机。
5、对折钉边保护正面进缸，以保护正布，减少布正面与染缸在运行过程的磨擦产生擦伤，染涤选用高牢度分散染料(安诺其品牌PUD系列)时加入吸湿排汗助剂(非离子高分子聚酯型分散液)，使织物软化，减少缸内磨擦产生擦伤痕；保险粉2g/L与纯碱4g/L，85℃/20min还原清洗完，检测牢度OK，再染棉，保证面相色差，形成色泽饱满，皂洗检验牢度pH值等达到要求时出缸。
在上述染涤时加吸湿排汗助剂1％(对布重)同浴，在130℃下作用30-45min，使涤纶纤维软化，减少缸内磨擦，用保险粉2g/L与纯碱4g/L，80℃/20min，还原洗后染棉，对色OK后皂洗加浴中柔软1％，减少染缸磨擦。
6、染后开幅轧水开幅定型，加入德美亲水性硅油DM-1274(对布重4％±0.5％)，改善织物的抗静电性及舒适性，同时加入德美硬挺剂DM-3568:1％±0.5％(对布重)，定型前料桶先进三分之的水，先加硬挻剂DM-3568，边加边搅匀，再加入亲水硅油DM-1274，化匀后输入轧槽，设置定型工艺，温度150℃±3℃，轧车压力2.5kg±0.5kg，速度18±2m/min，风量80％，在此工艺下经胶联作用后，起到挺滑弹性好的作用，同时亲水性好，达到防止吸附毛灰。
7、预缩压光：经预缩压光后，织物表面光泽增加、手感更好、缩率好。
8、检验包装：最后成品包装前检验项目门幅、克重、缩率、pH值、耐洗牢度等合格，包装入库。
在上述过程中，本发明相对梭织物减少烧毛工序，节省成本，杜绝因高温烧毛使聚酯纤维分子有序排列产生光泽，形成两面色。
经过上述过程，即可得到本发明商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法加工所制得的面料。
以上所揭露的仅为本发明一种较佳实施例而已，当然不能以此来限定本发明之权利范围，因此依本发明权利要求所作的等同变化，仍属本发明所涵盖的范围。

Claims (2)

1.一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
S1：将坯布进行丝光，完成后进行加入酸中和；所述丝光的步骤使用液碱浓度24-26°Bé，温度18-22℃下收缩，速度18-24m/min；所述酸为醋酸；
S2：将坯布进缸抛光处理，加入中性抛光酶处理，并通过灭活洗净，所述中性抛光酶活力单位2000，用量0.3％-0.4％；所述灭活洗净用试剂为纯碱；
S3：开幅轧水后开幅定型烘干，稳定门幅克重，以±3％缩率保布面平整下机；所述烘干采用180℃±5℃过水烘干；
S4：对折钉边保护正面进缸，在染涤分散染料时加入吸湿排汗助剂，用保险粉2g/L与纯碱4g/L，使用80℃作用20min，染棉后在对色达到要求后对布重加入浴中柔软剂1％，待皂洗检验牢度与pH值达到要求时出缸；所述吸湿排汗助剂对布重加入量为1％，保持温度130℃，作用时间30-45min；
S5：染后开幅轧水开幅定型，加入亲水性硅油为对布重4％±0.5％，硬挺剂1％±0.5％，两者混合液输入轧槽，在温度150℃±3℃，轧车压力2.5kg±0.5kg，速度18±2m/min，风量80％进行加工；所述亲水性硅油为德美亲水性硅油DM-1274；所述硬挺剂为德美硬挺剂DM-3568；
S6：预缩压光；
S7：检验包装。
2.一种根据权利要求1所述的商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的方法加工所制得的面料。
CN202110495174.XA 2017-03-01 2017-03-01 一种商务装针织面料染色保持光泽的工艺及面料 Pending CN113152119A (zh)

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