CN112877852A - 合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法 - Google Patents
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Abstract
本发明属于纺织面料技术领域,具体涉及一种合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,包括:原料选取:选用纯棉强捻经纬纱线;纱线定型:单纱/股线均需要蒸纱定型;染色:对纱线进行染色;织造:利用丰田喷气多臂织机进行织造;烧毛退浆:在烧退机上对面料进行烧毛并退浆;丝光:在直辊丝光机上对面料进行丝光;拉幅:对面料浸轧防水助剂;预缩:对面料进行预缩整理。本发明提供了一种具有防水功能的合股强捻纱色织外套面料的生产方法,所得面料纹路清晰,色泽均匀,不仅具有良好的垂感和质感,还兼具了特别的附加功能,从而打破人们对普通强捻纱面料特性的认知,以获得更多的市场机会。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于纺织面料技术领域,具体涉及一种合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法。
背景技术
一般的强捻纱面料强调的是面料的轻薄透气性和凉爽感,多作为夏季裙装面料的开发,但是近年来为了满足客户及市场对于强捻纱外套面料的开发追求,要求成衣具有垂感、质感并兼具一些附加功能,这需要适当增加面料的经纬密,采用合适的组织规格,注重捻系数及蒸纱定型温度和时间的选用,以及后续漂染、织造、整理工艺的制定。从而使面料具有较好的悬垂感和独特的手感,与普通的强捻纱面料区分开来,以获得市场的青睐。
发明内容
本发明要解决的技术问题是:克服现有技术的不足,提供一种区别于普通轻薄强捻纱面料的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法。
本发明所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,包括如下步骤:原料选取→纱线定型→染色→织造→烧毛退浆→丝光→拉幅→预缩;其中:
原料选取:选用纯棉强捻经纬纱线;
纱线定型:单纱/股线均需要蒸纱定型;
染色:对纱线进行染色;
织造:利用丰田喷气多臂织机进行织造;
烧毛退浆:在烧退机上对面料进行烧毛并退浆;
丝光:在直辊丝光机上对面料进行丝光;
拉幅:对面料浸轧防水助剂;
预缩:对面料进行预缩整理。
原料选用纯棉60S/2~120S/2的股线;单纱捻度为40~60捻/英寸,股线捻度为30~40捻/英寸。
纱线定型工序,单纱和股线的蒸纱定型温度为90~100℃,定型时间为40~60min。
染色工序,先进行松式纱煮纱定型,定型温度为130~140℃,定型时间为20~40min,然后重倒染色,前处理助剂为:螯合剂:0.3~1g/L,精炼剂:1.5~5g/L,烧碱(优选48波美度):1~5g/L,27.5%的双氧水:5~10g/L,除氧酶:0.2~0.5g/L,前处理温度为100~110℃,时间为60min;接下来进行染色,染色采用活性染料,99%的元明粉:40~80g/L,纯碱:10~40g/L,浴比为1:10~1:20,染色温度为50~90℃,棉保温时间60min,接着进行水洗和皂洗,去除浮色。
织造工序,采用丰田喷气多臂织机进行织造,2/2右斜组织,织机车速为610~660m/min,上机张力为300~400kg,综平时间290°~300°。
烧毛工序,使用2号火口位置,火焰强度为10mbar,车速:80~100m/min。
退浆工序,使用助剂:高温酶:10~40g/L,精炼剂:3~10g/L,渗透剂:1~5g/L,除蜡剂:10~20g/L,加料时温度为30~40℃,进入蒸箱温度为95~100℃,堆置5~10min,接着进行水洗,水洗温度为90~95℃,最后烘干,第一部分烘筒温度为75~85℃,第二部分烘筒温度为100~105℃。
丝光工序,碱液浓度为18~25波美度,对面料采用两浸两轧工艺,并淡碱冲洗,进行五喷五吸,温度为70~80℃,然后进入水洗槽进行中和水洗,水洗温度为60~80℃,进入烘筒烘干,烘干温度为120~130℃,最后打卷落布。
拉幅工序,使用防水助剂:50~100g/L,交联剂:15~30g/L,树脂:60~100g,强力保护剂:10~40g/L,对面料两浸两轧,然后在100~130℃条件下烘干。
预缩工序,橡胶毯压力:1~1.5kg,温度:110~120℃,车速40~50m/min。
与现有技术相比,本发明的有益效果如下:
本发明通过纱线选择、织物结构设计、捻系数及蒸纱定型温度和时间的选用、以及后续漂染、织造、整理等优良工艺的制定使面料具有较好的悬垂感和独特手感。同时,经过后整理工艺还使面料具有良好的防水性能,使之适合当做外套面料使用,与普通强捻纱面料风格迥异,及时响应了市场需求。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例对本发明做进一步的说明。
实施例1
浅绿色合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,包括如下步骤:原料选取→纱线定型→染色→织造→烧毛退浆→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
纱线选用纯棉80S/2的股线;单纱捻度为50捻/英寸,股线捻度为30捻/英寸。
纱线定型:单纱/股线均需要蒸纱定型,单纱/股线的蒸纱定型温度为95℃,定型时间为50min。
染色:先进行松式纱煮纱定型,定型温度为135℃,定型时间为30min,然后重倒染色,前处理助剂为:螯合剂:0.6g/L,精炼剂:3g/L,烧碱(48波美度):3g/L,27.5%的双氧水:8g/L,除氧酶:0.3g/L,前处理温度为105℃,时间为60min;接下来进行染色,染色是采用活性染料,99%的元明粉:40g/L,纯碱:10g/L,浴比为1:20,染色温度为50℃,棉保温时间60min,接着进行水洗和皂洗,去除浮色。
织造:采用丰田喷气多臂织机进行织造,2/2右斜组织,织机车速为640m/min,上机张力为330kg,综平时间290°。
烧毛:在烧退机上对面料进行烧毛并退浆,使用2号火口位置,火焰强度为10mbar,车速:90m/min;
退浆:使用助剂:高温酶:30g/L,精炼剂:6g/L,渗透剂:3g/L,除蜡剂:15g/L,加料时温度为35℃,进入蒸箱温度为98℃,堆置9min,接着进行水洗,水洗温度为92℃,最后烘干,第一部分烘筒温度为80℃,第二部分烘筒温度为100℃。
丝光:在直辊丝光机上对面料进行丝光,碱液浓度为21波美度,对面料采用两浸两轧工艺,并淡碱冲洗,进行五喷五吸,温度为75℃,然后进入水洗槽进行中和水洗,水洗温度为70℃,进入烘筒烘干,烘干温度为125℃,最后打卷落布。
拉幅:对面料浸轧防水助剂,使用防水助剂:80g/L,交联剂:20g/L,树脂:80g,强力保护剂:30g/L,对面料两浸两轧,然后在120℃条件下烘干。
预缩:对面料进行预缩整理,橡胶毯压力:1.5kg,温度:115℃,车速:45m/min。
所生产面料防水等级洗前90分,10次洗后90分。
实施例2
深蓝色防水合股强捻色织纱外套面料的生产方法,包括如下步骤:原料选取→纱线定型→染色→织造→烧毛退浆→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
纱线选用纯棉100S/2的股线;单纱捻度为55捻/英寸,股线捻度为36捻/英寸。
纱线定型:单纱/股线均需要蒸纱定型,单纱/股线的蒸纱定型温度为100℃,定型时间为60min。
染色:先进行松式纱煮纱定型,定型温度为140℃,定型时间为40min,然后重倒染色,前处理助剂为:螯合剂:0.3g/L,精炼剂:1.5g/L,烧碱(48波美度):1g/L,27.5%的双氧水:5g/L,除氧酶:0.2g/L,前处理温度为100℃,时间为60min;接下来进行染色,染色是采用活性染料,99%的元明粉:80g/L,纯碱:40g/L,浴比为1:10,染色温度为90℃,棉保温时间60min,接着进行水洗和皂洗,去除浮色。
织造:采用丰田喷气多臂织机进行织造,2/2右斜组织,织机车速为610m/min,上机张力为300kg,综平时间290°。
烧毛:在烧退机上对面料进行烧毛并退浆,使用2号火口位置,火焰强度为10mbar,车速:100m/min;
退浆:使用助剂:高温酶:40g/L,精炼剂:10g/L,渗透剂:5g/L,除蜡剂:20g/L,加料时温度为30℃,进入蒸箱温度为95℃,堆置5min,接着进行水洗,水洗温度为90℃,最后烘干,第一部分烘筒温度为75℃,第二部分烘筒温度为100℃。
丝光:在直辊丝光机上对面料进行丝光,碱液浓度为20波美度,对面料采用两浸两轧工艺,并淡碱冲洗,进行五喷五吸,淡碱温度为75℃,然后进入水洗槽进行中和水洗,水洗温度为70℃,进入烘筒烘干,烘干温度为125℃,最后打卷落布。
拉幅:对面料浸轧防水助剂,使用防水助剂:100g/L,交联剂:30g/L,树脂:100g,强力保护剂:40g/L,对面料两浸两轧,然后在100℃条件下烘干。
预缩:对面料进行预缩整理,橡胶毯压力:1kg,温度:110℃,车速50m/min。
所生产面料防水等级洗前90分,10次洗后90分。
实施例3
卡其色合股强捻色织纱防水外套面料的生产方法,包括如下步骤:原料选取→纱线定型→染色→织造→烧毛退浆→丝光→拉幅→预缩。
纱线选用纯棉60S/2的股线;单纱捻度为40捻/英寸,股线捻度为30捻/英寸。
纱线定型:单纱/股线均需要蒸纱定型,单纱/股线的蒸纱定型温度为90℃,定型时间为40min。
染色:先进行松式纱煮纱定型,定型温度为130℃,定型时间为20min,然后重倒染色,前处理助剂为:螯合剂:1g/L,精炼剂:5g/L,烧碱(48波美度):5g/L,27.5%的双氧水:10g/L,除氧酶:0.5g/L,前处理温度为110℃,时间为60min;接下来进行染色,染色是采用活性染料,99%的元明粉:60g/L,纯碱:30g/L,浴比为1:15,染色温度为60℃,棉保温时间60min,接着进行水洗和皂洗,去除浮色。
织造:采用丰田喷气多臂织机进行织造,2/2右斜组织,织机车速为660m/min,上机张力为400kg,综平时间300°。
烧毛:在烧退机上对面料进行烧毛并退浆,使用2号火口位置,火焰强度为10mbar,车速:80m/min;
退浆:使用助剂:高温酶:10g/L,精炼剂:3g/L,渗透剂:1g/L,除蜡剂:10g/L,加料时温度为40℃,进入蒸箱温度为100℃,堆置10min,接着进行水洗,水洗温度为95℃,最后烘干,第一部分烘筒温度为85℃,第二部分烘筒温度为105℃。
丝光:在直辊丝光机上对面料进行丝光,碱液浓度为23波美度,对面料采用两浸两轧工艺,并淡碱冲洗,进行五喷五吸,温度为75℃,然后进入水洗槽进行中和水洗,水洗温度为70℃,进入烘筒烘干,烘干温度为125℃,最后打卷落布。
拉幅:对面料浸轧防水助剂,使用防水助剂:50g/L,交联剂:15g/L,树脂:60g,强力保护剂:10g/L,对面料两浸两轧,然后在130℃条件下烘干。
预缩:对面料进行预缩整理,橡胶毯压力:1.5kg,温度:120℃,车速:40m/min。
所生产面料防水等级洗前90分,10次洗后80分。
当然,上述内容仅为本发明的较佳实施例,不能被认为用于限定对本发明的实施例范围。本发明也并不仅限于上述举例,本技术领域的普通技术人员在本发明的实质范围内所做出的均等变化与改进等,均应归属于本发明的专利涵盖范围内。
Claims (10)
1.一种合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:包括如下步骤:原料选取→纱线定型→染色→织造→烧毛退浆→丝光→拉幅→预缩;其中,原料选用纯棉强捻经纬纱线,纱线定型中单纱和股线均需要蒸纱定型。
2.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:原料选用纯棉60S/2~120S/2的股线;单纱捻度为40~60捻/英寸,股线捻度为30~40捻/英寸。
3.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:单纱和股线的蒸纱定型温度为90~100℃,定型时间为40~60min。
4.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:染色工序,先进行松式纱煮纱定型,定型温度为130~140℃,定型时间为20~40min,然后重倒染色,前处理助剂为:螯合剂:0.3~1g/L,精炼剂:1.5~5g/L,烧碱:1~5g/L,27.5%的双氧水:5~10g/L,除氧酶:0.2~0.5g/L,前处理温度为100~110℃,时间为60min;接下来进行染色,染色采用活性染料,99%的元明粉:40~80g/L,纯碱:10~40g/L,浴比为1:10~1:20,染色温度为50~90℃,棉保温时间60min,接着进行水洗和皂洗,去除浮色。
5.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:织造工序,采用丰田喷气多臂织机进行织造,2/2右斜组织,织机车速为610~660m/min,上机张力为300~400kg,综平时间290°~300°。
6.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:烧毛工序,火焰强度为10mbar,车速:80~100m/min。
7.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:退浆工序,使用助剂:高温酶:10~40g/L,精炼剂:3~10g/L,渗透剂:1~5g/L,除蜡剂:10~20g/L,加料时温度为30~40℃,进入蒸箱温度为95~100℃,堆置5~10min,接着进行水洗,水洗温度为90~95℃,最后烘干,第一部分烘筒温度为75~85℃,第二部分烘筒温度为100~105℃。
8.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:丝光工序,碱液浓度为18~25波美度,对面料采用两浸两轧工艺,并淡碱冲洗,进行五喷五吸,温度为70~80℃,然后进入水洗槽进行中和水洗,水洗温度为60~80℃,进入烘筒烘干,烘干温度为120~130℃,最后打卷落布。
9.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:拉幅工序,使用防水助剂:50~100g/L,交联剂:15~30g/L,树脂:60~100g,强力保护剂:10~40g/L,对面料两浸两轧,然后在100~130℃条件下烘干。
10.根据权利要求1所述的合股强捻纱色织防水外套面料的生产方法,其特征在于:预缩工序,橡胶毯压力:1~1.5kg,温度:110~120℃,车速40~50m/min。
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