CN112469302A

CN112469302A - Method for making jewelry containing natural plants and jewelry made by same

Info

Publication number: CN112469302A
Application number: CN201980044128.9A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 奥利维尔·波德特; 克莱门特·迪雷
Original assignee: Boucheron SA
Current assignee: Boucheron SA
Priority date: 2018-06-29
Filing date: 2019-06-27
Publication date: 2021-03-09
Also published as: FR3083057B1; JP7410892B2; WO2020002849A1; FR3083057A1; JP2021529601A

Abstract

The invention relates to a manufacturing method of jewelry, which comprises the following steps: providing a jewelry piece body (30) made of a noble metal alloy; providing at least one stable plant (10); providing at least one plant support (20); assembling the stabilized plant with a plant support, comprising the step of adhering the stabilized plant on one face of the plant support; and (3) mounting and fixing the plant support member adhered with the stable plant on the jewelry main body. The application also relates to jewelry made therefrom.

Description

Method for making jewelry containing natural plants and jewelry made by same

Technical Field

The present invention relates to a piece of jewellery, in particular a piece of jewellery comprising at least one natural plant, and to a method for making such a piece of jewellery.

Background

In the jewelry industry, particularly in the field of high-grade jewelry, the manufacture of jewelry requires sophisticated techniques and the use of precious and rare materials.

In order to diversify the work, plants have obviously become a raw material of interest: although not rare in themselves, their beauty is short lived and requires elaborate techniques to be developed to make use of them in such situations.

Thus, the use of such materials in jewelry items means that they can be made durable and stable for extended periods of time.

For this reason, plant stabilization techniques have been developed.

However, in the jewelry industry, the installation or assembly of stable plants on metal holders, in particular holders made of noble metal alloys, remains a major difficulty.

Finally, it would be desirable if such jewelry could also withstand various factors related to the behavior of the wearer of the jewelry, such as perspiration, various types of physical activity, and even the use of perfumes. For this reason, it is desirable that such jewelry be able to withstand testing such as heat and humidity (e.g., exposure to temperatures of about 40 ℃ and humidity of about 90% for hours or even days).

Disclosure of Invention

The present application aims to address at least some of the above disadvantages and to address other advantages.

To this end, according to a first part of the invention, a method of making a piece of jewellery is proposed, comprising the following steps:

-providing a jewellery body made of a noble metal alloy;

-providing at least one stable plant;

-providing at least one plant support;

-assembling the stabilized plant with a plant support, comprising the step of gluing the stabilized plant on one face of the plant support;

-mounting and fixing the plant support, to which the stable plant has been glued, on the jewellery body.

For example, the term "noble metal alloy" is understood herein to mean any alloy containing gold in an amount of at least 375 parts per thousand (375 thousandths, i.e. 9 carats), or preferably at least 583 parts per thousand (583 thousandths, i.e. 14 grazes), or preferably at least 750 parts per thousand (750 thousandths, i.e. 18 grazes); or any titanium-containing alloy; or any silver-containing alloy; or any platinum-containing alloy.

The appearance of the jewelry main body can be matte or bright.

The types of jewelry bodies include rings, earrings, brooches, bracelets, watches, necklaces, pendants, headwear, and even belt buckles or other objects.

Plant here means any natural plant element: such as petals, leaves, grass stems, ears, etc.

Plants are herein referred to as stabilized, i.e. have been subjected to a known stabilizing treatment, which allows the plant to retain an approximately original appearance for years, as soon as it is harvested.

The step of assembling the stable plant with the plant support comprises the step of conveniently gluing the stable plant on one face of the plant support.

The plant support may be a precious metal alloy, for example any alloy containing gold in an amount of at least 375 parts per thousand (375 thousandths, i.e. 9 carats), or preferably at least 583 parts per thousand (583 thousandths, i.e. 14 carats), or preferably at least 750 parts per thousand (750 thousandths, i.e. 18 carats); or any titanium-containing alloy; or any silver-containing alloy; or any platinum-containing alloy.

For example, it uses the same alloy as the jewelry body.

For example, the plant support should be at least surface treated.

For example, the plant support is made of anodized titanium.

This treatment can give the plant support a unique colour, for example different from that of titanium alloy which has not been specially treated.

Thus, the plant support may be given different colours depending on the stable plant to be adhered to.

The plant support can preferably comprise at least one contoured face designed to receive a stable plant.

For example, this part of the plant support has a profile, even with a larger body shape, similar to a stable plant to be glued to.

For example, at least the face of the plant support is machined (e.g. bent and/or engraved) to form a relief similar to the natural curve of a stable plant to be adhered thereto.

The step of providing at least one plant support thus relates in particular to a plant support with a machined surface to form a relief similar to the natural curve of a stable plant to be glued thereto.

In a preferred embodiment, the method may include the step of scanning the plant in three dimensions and finally stabilizing it.

For this purpose, it is possible to use a scanner or the like.

Followed by the step of retrieving the corresponding digital file.

The digital file contains information showing the digital model of the plant in three dimensions.

Then, the method comprises the steps of: the digital file is provided to an additive manufacturing machine in three dimensions.

Such machines are also commonly referred to as rapid prototyping machines.

The method also includes the step of forming a pattern, such as a wax pattern.

In a particularly common embodiment, the step of replicating the model by plaster is preceded by a step of heating the mould to melt the wax, thereby obtaining a shaped mould to form the face of at least one plant support for receiving the corresponding stable plant.

In addition, all plants of the same category may have very similar curves and reliefs, and the mould thus obtained may be used to make the faces of the same plant support for a plurality of plants of the same category.

For example, the contour of the face of the plant support has a shape similar to the contour of a stable plant to be adhered thereto.

For example, the face of the plant support is larger than the stable plant to which it is to be adhered, so that when adhering the stable plant, there is room around the outline of the stable plant. The blanks may then be draped.

Thus, the plant support comprises at least one portion similar to the target plant.

In one interesting embodiment, the plant support further comprises a portion, herein referred to as a fixing plate, for fixing the plant support to the jewelry body.

Thus, in embodiments, the plant support comprises one fixing plate and one part for receiving a stabilizing plant, or two parts for receiving a stabilizing plant, or three parts for receiving a stabilizing plant, or even more.

The various parts for receiving the stabilizing plants may be distributed around the fixing plate as desired.

According to the method of the invention, in a particular step, the stabilized plants are glued to the respective faces of the plant support.

For this purpose, glue is applied to the surface of the plant support, and the stabilized plant is then glued to the glued surface.

According to a interesting alternative, the method further comprises the step of painting the stabilized plants.

This step further protects the stable plants.

In particular, if this is a piece of jewellery that is very close to the skin, such as a ring or necklace, this step can further protect the stabilizing plant from external influences, such as those associated with the sweating or the spraying of perfumes by the jewellery wearer.

The painting step includes the step of painting and even further includes the step of encapsulating the stabilized plant.

The painting step here means the step of applying a paint to give the plant and jewelry body better durability in use.

Clear lacquers are preferably used to avoid as much as possible altering the natural colour of the plant.

According to one possible option, the raw lacquer may contain gold powder or other glitter.

According to another possible option, the raw lacquer may be formulated to give the stable plant a relatively matt appearance, thereby helping to maintain its more natural appearance.

If desired, the encapsulation step is carried out as an additional layer after painting to further enhance the long term durability of the jewelry.

The encapsulation step may also improve the robustness of the stabilized plant, which is a very fragile item in nature, e.g. susceptible to tearing.

Also, the material used for encapsulation is preferably transparent to avoid as much as possible altering the natural color of the plant.

Therefore, if desired, the encapsulation step is preferably carried out after the painting step.

At least part of the painting step, or even the entire step, is preferably carried out before the step of mounting and fixing the plant support on the jewellery body, in order to better protect the stable plant during this step.

According to another interesting option, the method may further comprise the step of finishing at least a portion of the back side of the plant support.

The back side of the plant support means here a side of the plant support which is different from the side to which the stabilized plants adhere (or the side which receives the stabilized plants).

The step of laying is referred to herein as the step of setting a plurality of stones, in particular stones of very small diameter, for example less than 2 mm, even less than 1 mm in diameter.

This may refer to various types of precious stones (e.g., diamonds, ruby, sapphire, emerald) or fine stones (topaz, sapphire, amethyst, tourmaline, amethyst, etc.).

The step of applying the dressing is preferably carried out before the plants are adhered.

According to the method of the invention, in a particular example, the step of mounting and fixing the plant support on the jewellery body further comprises the steps of providing a connecting rod and inserting the plant support (with the stabilized plant) into the connecting rod.

In this case, the plant support comprises an aperture for receiving the connecting rod.

By definition, the aperture should be located on the fixed plate of the plant support.

The connecting rod is preferably fixed to the jewellery body before or after assembly of the connecting rod with the plant support; in other words, the method comprises the step of fixing the connecting rod to the jewellery body.

In an embodiment, the method further comprises the step of providing a central gemstone.

The central jewel here means a single jewel (precious or fine) with a holder, or a part in which several jewels are inlaid.

The central jewel helps to hold the plant support on the jewelry body and/or hide the connecting rod or any other assembly.

This arrangement can hide various components of the jewelry and make the jewelry look like a plant.

In the field of floral preparations, their effect has proven satisfactory.

The method includes the step of disposing a plant support between the jewelry body and the central gemstone.

In other words, the plant support is inserted between the jewellery body and the central jewel.

The central jewel may be fixed to the connecting rod and/or to the jewelry body by means of a plant support.

In an embodiment, the central gemstone carries a connecting rod; that is, a central jewel is provided with a connecting rod previously installed.

If desired, the method includes the steps of providing a central jewel with a connecting rod, inserting the plant support on the connecting rod and fixing the connecting rod to the jewelry body.

In such embodiments, the fixation of the connecting rod may be achieved by: the rod is inserted into a bore of the jewelry body, or the rod is glued or screwed and then screwed into the bore, or even may be drilled into the jewelry body by a pin or screw or other means.

In another embodiment, the jewelry body is provided with a connecting rod; that is, the jewelry body that provides has installed the connecting rod in advance.

If desired, the method includes the steps of providing a jewelry body with a connecting rod, inserting the plant support on the connecting rod, and securing the plant support to the jewelry body.

In such embodiments, the fixation of the connecting rod may be achieved as described above: the rod is inserted into a boring hole of the jewelry body, or the rod is glued or screwed and then screwed into the boring hole, and even can be drilled into the jewelry body through a pin or a screw or other components; or the rod may be made with the jewelry body, for example by moulding.

In embodiments, the step of securing the plant support to the jewelry body may comprise the step of securing the central gemstone to the jewelry body, even to the connecting rod.

The connecting rods and apertures of the respective plant supports preferably have complementary shapes.

They can assume various types of shapes (circular, polygonal, etc.), but their shape is preferably error-proof, that is to say the connecting rods can only be inserted in one way into the apertures of the plant support. Thus, the orientation and/or specific arrangement of the plant supports, and thus of the jewelry body to which the connecting rod is secured, can be predetermined according to the connecting rod.

In one interesting embodiment, there may be at least two plant supports. As previously mentioned, each plant support may comprise one, two or three parts for receiving a stable plant, or even more.

In this case, the method further comprises:

-a step of providing at least a second stable plant;

-a step of providing at least a second plant support; and

-a step of assembling a second stable plant with a second plant support, comprising the step of gluing the second stable plant on one face of the second plant support.

These steps can be carried out independently (i.e. subsequently or simultaneously), i.e. independently of the steps associated with the previous stable plant (i.e. the first stable plant) and with the corresponding plant support (i.e. the first plant support).

In this case, the method also comprises the step of mounting a second plant support (already glued to the second middle stable plant) on the jewelry body after the first plant support.

In an embodiment, the second plant support further comprises a fixing plate.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fixing plate of the second plant support further comprises an aperture for inserting the above-mentioned connecting rod.

The aperture of the second plant support has the same shape as the aperture of the first plant support.

The aperture of the second plant support is preferably disposed within the second plant support to prevent the second plant support from completely covering the first plant support.

In other words, although the fixing plate of the second plant support may be superposed on the fixing plate of the first plant support, it is worth noting that a portion of the second plant support receiving the second stable plant and a portion of the first plant support receiving the first stable plant partially overlap, i.e. are offset from each other, most.

In embodiments where the first and second stable plants are petals, such an arrangement gives the impression that the second petals partially overlap the first petals, thereby giving the crown a more realistic effect.

Preferably, the method further comprises the step of securing a second plant support.

This step may be carried out independently of the step of fixing the first plant support, or by conventional means.

For example, in the case of a connecting rod passing through two plant supports (or all if more than two), all of the plant supports may be held in place by a central jewel.

According to another option, the fixing plates of the plant support (first and second if two, all if more) comprise at least one aperture and are distinct from the apertures receiving the connecting rods.

The apertures are designed to receive locating pins, such as those of a crown, so that the crown can be placed between the central gemstone and the plant support.

In an embodiment, the crown is designed to carry parts of the pistil of the flower.

Preferably there are a plurality of apertures, for example three or four.

They are distributed around the aperture for inserting the connecting rod.

Thus, the crown preferably has as many pins as there are apertures, each pin mating with an aperture.

Thus, even if the aperture of the plant support and the connecting rod are both circular in cross-section, the pin of the corolla and the small hole of the plant support have a mistake-proofing effect.

They also help to maintain the set orientation of the plant supports in the jewelry.

At the end of the method, the jewelry made and finished may be a ring, earring, brooch, bracelet, watch, necklace, pendant, headwear, belt buckle or other article.

Thus, according to another aspect of the invention, there is also provided a piece of jewellery made according to the above method.

The jewellery comprises at least one jewellery body made of a noble metal alloy and is characterized in that it comprises at least one stabilizing plant.

In a particular embodiment, the item of jewellery further comprises at least one plant support and a stable plant already glued, or glued, to one face of the plant support, the plant support preferably being made of a noble metal alloy.

And the stabilized plants are best painted or even encapsulated.

Such jewelry also includes all or part of the features described in connection with the corresponding embodiments and provides similar advantages.

For example, one side of the plant support is machined to form a relief similar to the natural curve of the stable plant to which it is to be adhered.

For example, the plant support includes a portion, referred to herein as a mounting plate, for securing the plant support to the jewelry body (30).

Drawings

The invention will be better understood and its advantages will be better apparent from a reading of the following detailed description, given by way of reference only and given without limitation, with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which:

figure 1 shows a painted and encapsulated stabilized plant made according to an embodiment of the present invention,

figure 2 shows a plant support made according to a first embodiment of the invention,

figure 3 shows a plant support made according to a second embodiment of the invention,

figure 4 shows a body of jewelry made in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention,

FIG. 5 shows a top view of jewelry made in accordance with an embodiment of the present invention, an

Fig. 6 shows a bottom view of the jewelry of fig. 5, and shows the appliqu é on the back of the plant support.

Detailed Description

Like parts shown in the foregoing drawings are identified by like reference numerals.

Fig. 1 shows in schematic form a stable plant 10 which has been painted and encapsulated, the plant selected here being a petal.

In this case, for the purpose of illustration, the plants have been treated without any support, indicating that the painting step and the encapsulation step allow the plants to obtain a firm stability, even for the finest and most fragile plants.

According to an embodiment of the present invention, it is preferred to adhere the stabilized plants to a support, referred to as plant support 20, as shown in fig. 2.

The plant support 20 of fig. 2 here comprises a fixing plate 21 and two

parts

22, 23, each for receiving a stable plant, in this case a petal.

The

parts

22, 23 for receiving the stabilizing plants are distinct from each other and are both connected to the fixing plate 21.

Each of these two parts comprises a

face

22a, 23a on which the stable plants are to be glued, which is delimited by a

contour

22b, 23b, which is similar to the contour of the stable plants to be glued thereto.

Each

portion

22, 23 is preferably able to form the

same contour

22b, 23b as the plant it receives, in other words so that their contours coincide as much as possible.

Furthermore, each portion is curved here, so that the respective faces form a relief similar to the natural curve of the stable plant to which it is intended to adhere.

The fixing plate 21 mainly comprises an aperture 24, here a rectangular aperture. The aperture 24 is intended to mate with a connecting rod 40 (see fig. 4).

Alternatively, the fixing plate 21 here also comprises small holes 25, in this case four small holes distributed around the aperture 24.

These apertures 25 are designed to receive locating pins, such as those of a crown, so that the crown can be placed between the central gemstone and the plant support.

In an embodiment not shown, the crown can be designed to carry the components of the pistil of the flower.

The plant support 20' in fig. 3 is functionally identical to that of fig. 2. Parts having the same function bear the same numerical designation and bear a prime (apostrophe) designation.

Structurally, it also comprises here a fixing plate 21 ' and 22 ', 23 ', each of the two parts being intended to receive a stabilizing petal.

The fixing plate 21' of the plant support in fig. 3 is the same as the fixing plate of the plant support in fig. 2.

It therefore comprises a rectangular aperture 24 'for mating with the connecting rod 40 shown in figure 4, and four small holes 25' distributed around the aperture in the same way as in figure 2.

Thus, if the plant support 20 ' of figure 3 is stacked on the plant support 20 of figure 2, the two apertures 24, 24 ' are superimposed and the apertures 25, 25 ' are also superimposed.

In contrast, unlike the plant support 20 of fig. 2, the two portions 22 ', 23 ' for receiving the stabilizing petals of the plant support of fig. 3 are each arranged according to a fixing plate 21 '.

Thus, if the plant support 20 'of figure 3 were to be stacked on the plant support 20 of figure 2, the portions for receiving the stabilizing petals would not overlap, but would partially overlap, at least the apertures 24, 24' would overlap.

Thus, plant support 20 of fig. 2 constitutes a first plant support, while plant support 20' of fig. 3 constitutes a second plant support.

Therefore, the jewelry manufacturing method according to the embodiment of the invention comprises the following steps:

a step of providing a first plant support 20, as shown in the example of figure 2;

-providing at least two stable plants 10, 10', such as stable petals;

a step of gluing the stable plants 10, 10' to one face of the

plant support

22a, 23a, respectively.

The same is true of the second plant support 20', as shown in the example of fig. 3.

Once the respective plant has been glued to the plant support, the method preferably comprises a painting step, even an encapsulation step, in order to better protect the plant and make the whole more durable.

The plant support of fig. 2 and 3, to which the stable plant has been adhered and possibly painted and encapsulated, is then mounted on the jewelry body 30, as shown in the example of fig. 4.

The jewelry body of fig. 4 is here a ring, or mainly a circular ring 31.

In particular, in this embodiment, the jewelry body is provided with the aforementioned connecting rod 40.

The connecting rod 40 is shown here as a circular section for the purpose of illustrating that it may have a cross-section of various shapes.

In practice, the connecting rods preferably have a rectangular cross section, according to the shape of the apertures 24, 24' of each plant support, with which the connecting rods 40 are then assembled.

Further, in this embodiment, the jewelry main body 30 and the connecting rod 40 are shown as a whole.

Of course, the connecting rod 40 may be a separate component or may be pre-mounted on a central jewel (as described below) that is attached to the jewelry body 30 before or after passing through the apertures 24, 24 'of the different plant supports 20, 20' to be assembled.

For example, the method may include the step of inserting the connecting rod 40 into the jewelry body 30.

Thus, in a preferred embodiment, the method comprises an assembly step, wherein the connecting rod 40 is passed in sequence through the apertures 24, 24 'of the provided plant supports 20, 20'.

In the illustrated embodiment, a first plant support 20 (shown in fig. 2) passes through the connecting rod 40, and then a second plant support 20 '(shown in fig. 3) passes through the connecting rod 40 with its mounting plate 21' overlapping the mounting plate of the first plant support.

Thus, the first plant support 20 is here in close proximity to the jewelry body 30 and between the jewelry body 30 and the second plant support 20'.

In a preferred embodiment, the method further comprises the step of providing a central gemstone 50.

The central gemstone 50 is seen in fig. 5, which shows an example of jewellery obtained at the end of the method.

In this example, this is a triangular gemstone inlaid at the apex of each of the three claws 51.

For this case, the method comprises the step of arranging the

plant support

20, 20', 20 "between the jewellery body 30 and the central jewel 50.

In addition, the method includes the step of securing the central jewel 50 to the connecting rod 40.

In the embodiment of fig. 5, the jewelry piece is a ring representing a flower.

In particular, the jewellery presents five petals, here superimposed by three plant supports 20, 20', 20 ".

Finally, the central jewel 50 here represents the core of the flower.

Fig. 6 shows in schematic form a partial back of the

plant support

20, 20', 20 "receiving the stable plant.

These are usually metallic surfaces.

Thus, according to one interesting option, these backs are provided with a finish 60. The drape 60 is present here only on a partial back of a plant support for receiving a stabilization plant, but the drape may be present on all backs, or only on a partial back of a plant support for receiving a stabilization plant 10, 10'.

The drape 60 is preferably completed prior to assembly of the

plant support

20, 20', 20 "to the jewelry body 30.

Of course, in this description, the connecting rod 40 is shown already previously integrated with the jewellery body 30, but it could equally be arranged below the central jewel 50, or be separate and fixed to the jewellery body 30 and the central jewel 50 during the manufacturing process.

In addition, the plant supports 20, 20', 20 "can be assembled to the jewelry body 30 by other means.

Finally, the description refers to the case where the jewellery is a ring, but can be any other type of jewellery, such as earrings, brooches, bracelets, watches, necklaces, pendants, headwear, belt buckles or other items.

Claims

1. A method of making jewelry, the method comprising the steps of:

-providing a jewellery body (30) made of a noble metal alloy;

-providing at least one stable plant (10);

-providing at least one plant support (20);

-assembling the stabilized plant (10) with the plant support, comprising the step of gluing the stabilized plant (10) on one face (22a) of the plant support (20);

-mounting and fixing the plant support (20) to which the stable plant (10) has been glued, on the jewellery body (30).

2. The method according to claim 1, further comprising the step of painting the stable plant (10).

3. The method according to claim 2, further comprising the step of encapsulating the stable plant (10) after the painting step.

4. Method according to one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising the step of three-dimensional scanning of the plant and eventually stabilizing it.

5. Method according to one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising the step of finishing at least a portion of the back side of the plant support (20).

6. Method according to one of claims 1 to 5, further comprising the step of providing a central jewel (50) and the step of arranging the plant support (20) between the jewellery body (30) and the central jewel (50).

7. Method according to one of claims 1 to 6, the step of mounting and fixing the plant support (20) on the jewellery body (30) further comprising the steps of providing a connecting rod (40) and inserting the plant support (20) with the stabilized plant (10) into the connecting rod (40).

8. The method according to claims 6 and 7, further comprising the step of fixing the central jewel (50) to the connecting rod (40).

9. The method of one of claims 7 or 8, further comprising the step of fixing the connecting rod (40) to the jewelry body (30).

10. The method according to one of claims 1 to 9, further comprising:

-a step of providing at least a second stable plant (10');

-a step of providing at least a second plant support (20');

-a step of assembling a second stable plant (10 ') with a second plant support (20 '), comprising a step of gluing the second stable plant (10 ') on one face (22a ') of the second plant support (20 '); and

-a step of mounting a second plant support (20 ') to which a second stable plant (10 ') has been adhered on the jewellery body (30), and a step of fixing the second plant support (20 ').

11. Jewellery made by a method according to one of claims 1 to 10, comprising at least one jewellery body (30) made of a noble metal alloy, characterized in that it comprises at least one plant support (20) and at least one stabilizing plant (10), and in that the stabilizing plant (10) has been adhered to a face (22a) of the plant support (20).

12. The jewellery according to claim 11, wherein at least the face (22a) of the plant support (20) is machined to form a relief similar to the natural curve of a stable plant (10) to be bonded thereto.

13. The jewellery according to one of claims 11 or 12, wherein the profile of the face (22a) of the plant support (20) has a shape similar to the profile of a stable plant (10) to be glued thereto.

14. The jewellery according to one of claims 11 to 13, wherein the plant support comprises a portion, herein referred to as fixing plate (21), for fixing the plant support (20) to the jewellery body (30).