CN112107526A - 一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物及其制备方法，该护肤品组合物包括类神经酰胺Ⅱ、植物甾醇、硬脂酸、红没药醇、白花百合鳞茎提取物、玫瑰花提取物、香根鸢尾根提取物、1,2‑戊二醇、4‑叔丁基环已醇、以及β‑葡聚糖。本发明的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物同时具备止痒、祛红消炎、抗刺痛与灼烧、屏障修复等综合功效，特别对于婴童的皮肤具有深层修复皮肤屏障的效果，对婴童的皮肤温和无刺激。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及护肤品，特别涉及一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物及其制备方法。
背景技术
皮肤是人体最大的器官，皮肤的屏障是人体的第一道防线。目前化妆品领域中，很多具有美白效果的产品是通过去除角质层，从而让皮肤显得水嫩。而角质层是皮肤的重要屏障，对于保持皮肤的健康有重要作用。
婴童的皮肤厚度远远不及成年人，并且皮肤的天然屏障发育不完全，在寒冷、干燥、沙尘等恶劣环境中，婴童的皮肤角质层容易受到损坏，从而对皮肤造成更深的伤害。如果缺乏皮肤屏障的保护，空气中的污染物以及皮肤接触的物品上的污染物容易进入皮肤，造成炎症等更加严重的健康问题。
另外，由于婴童分泌油脂的能力不强，出现皮肤屏障受损的情况时，往往很难通过自身修复，因此开发一种专门供婴童使用的，修复皮肤屏障的护肤品具有重要的意义。
中国专利CN108969446A公开了一种增强皮肤屏障功能的婴幼儿防皴护肤组合物，但是其作用原理是在皮肤表面形成保湿复合层，对皮肤深层的修复作用较弱。
因此开发一种真正能够修复深层皮肤屏障的护肤品具有紧迫而重要的意义。
发明内容
本发明要解决的技术问题是为了克服现有技术中不能深层修复婴童皮肤屏障的缺陷，提供一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物及其制备方法。
本发明是通过下述技术方案来解决上述技术问题：
一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，所述组合物的活性成分包括以下重量百分数的组分：
类神经酰胺Ⅱ0.075％-0.1％
植物甾醇0.5％-2％
硬脂酸0.425％-1.7％
红没药醇0.15％-0.2％
白花百合鳞茎提取物0.01％-3％
玫瑰花提取物0.01％-3％
香根鸢尾根提取物0.01％-3％
1,2-戊二醇0.5％-3％
4-叔丁基环已醇0.5％-3％
β-葡聚糖0.3％-0.5％。
优选地，所述类神经酰胺Ⅱ为合成类神经酰胺Ⅱ。
优选地，所述红没药醇为合成红没药醇。
优选地，所述类神经酰胺Ⅱ的用量为0.09％-0.1％。
优选地，所述植物甾醇的用量为0.5％-1.5％，例如1％。
优选地，所述硬脂酸的用量为1.5％-1.7％。
优选地，所述红没药醇的用量为0.35％-0.4％。
优选地，所述1,2-戊二醇的用量为2％-3％。
优选地，所述4-叔丁基环已醇的用量为0.5％-1％。
优选地，所述β-葡聚糖的用量为0.4％-0.5％。优选地，所述组合物的活性成分包括以下重量百分数的组分：
类神经酰胺Ⅱ0.075％；
植物甾醇2％；
硬脂酸0.45％；
红没药醇0.25％；
白花百合鳞茎提取物2％
玫瑰花提取物0.1％
香根鸢尾根提取物1％
1,2-戊二醇0.5％；
4-叔丁基环已醇2％；
β-葡聚糖0.5％；
优选地，所述组合物还包括保湿剂、油脂、增稠剂、防腐体系、乳化剂以及去离子水中的一种或几种。
保湿剂是一类亲水性的润肤物质，本发明中的美白祛斑复合物配方对于保湿剂及其含量没有特殊限制。理论上，化妆品中常用的保湿剂，如多元醇类、天然保湿因子、氨基酸类及高分子生化类均可用于本发明的技术方案中。本发明的技术方案优选的保湿剂可以选自甘油、1,3-丁二醇、丙二醇、戊二醇、己二醇、山梨醇等多元醇，酰胺类、海藻糖、葡萄糖/葡萄糖酯类、果糖等多糖类，尿素、尿囊素、乳酸/乳酸钠、PCA钠等天然保湿因子、甜菜碱、聚乙二醇类、泛醇、烟酰胺、壳聚糖类、维生素E乙酸酯、三乙醇胺中的一种或几种。进一步，从保湿效果和节约原料的角度，以该美白祛斑复合物总质量为基准，本发明保湿剂的添加比例优选范围是0.1-30wt％。
油脂类是组成膏霜类化妆品的基本原料，主要起着护肤、柔滑、滋润等作用。甘油脂肪酸是组成动植物油脂的主要成分。在常温时呈液态的称为油，呈固态的称为脂。根据来源可分为植物性油脂，如椰子油、蓖麻油、橄榄油、杏仁油、花生油、大豆油、棕榈油等。动物油脂有牛脂、猪油、貂油、海龟油等，这些动植物油脂加氢后的产物称为硬化油。在化妆品中常用的硬化油有：硬化椰子油、硬化牛脂、硬化蓖麻油、硬化大豆油等。本发明油脂的添加比例优选范围是2-10wt％。
增稠剂是一种使用无机盐氯化钠的增稠剂体系，在化妆品中，增稠剂可以跟其它原材料一起添加搅拌，在水溶液中会形成胶束，电解质的存在使胶束的缔合数增加，导致球形胶束向棒状胶束转化，使运动阻力增大，从而使体系的黏稠度增加。本发明的技术方案优选的增稠剂可以选自蜂蜡、黄原胶、丙烯酰二甲基牛磺酸铵/VP共聚物的一种或多种。本发明增稠剂的添加比例优选范围是2-5wt％。
防腐体系是一类用于保障化妆品免受微生物污染、或者阻止微生物生长的物质，可以起到延长产品货架寿命的作用。需要说明的是，原则上本发明的美白祛斑复合物配方对于防腐体系及其含量(在法定要求范围内)没有特殊的限制，化妆品中常用的防腐体系均可用于本发明的技术方案中。本发明方案的防腐体系可以选自对羟基苯乙酮、山梨酸/山梨酸钾、苯氧乙醇、对羟基苯甲酸酯类、多元醇类、氯苯甘醚、辛酸甘油酯、癸酸甘油酯、亚丁香基丙二酸二乙基己酯、脱氢乙酸及其盐类、水杨酸/水杨酸钠、苯甲酸、碘丙炔醇丁基氨甲酸酯、山梨坦辛酸酯、茴香酸中的一种或几种。所述防腐体系的重量百分比为0.1％-10％。
乳化剂是指能够使乳浊液稳定的表面活性剂。因此，在油水体系中加入乳化剂后，水和油就能相互混合，形成完全分散的乳浊液。乳化剂不仅仅能够提高乳浊液的稳定性，还能够决定乳浊液的类型。乳化剂根据其来源可分为天然乳化剂和合成乳化剂；按照作用类型可以分为表面活性剂、黏度增强剂和固体吸附剂；按其亲油亲水性可分为亲油型和亲水型。本发明方案的乳化剂可以选自鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾、氢化棕榈油甘油酯类、甘油硬脂酸酯柠檬酸酯以及甘油硬脂酸酯中的一种或几种。所述乳化剂的重量百分比为2％-5％。
优选地，在所述组合物中，所述类神经酰胺Ⅱ、所述植物甾醇、所述硬脂酸和所述红没药醇的质量百分比之和为3％-4％。
进一步优选地，在所述组合物中，采用
100来替代所述类神经酰胺Ⅱ、所述植物甾醇、所述硬脂酸和所述红没药醇。
进一步优选地，所述
100的用量可为3％、3.5％或4％。
优选地，在所述组合物中，所述1,2-戊二醇和所述4-叔丁基环已醇的质量百分比之和为1％-3％。
进一步优选地，在所述组合物中，采用
1609来替代所述1,2-戊二醇和所述4-叔丁基环已醇。
进一步优选地，所述
1609的用量可为1％、1.5％、1.7％或2％。
优选地，在所述组合物中，采用
来替代所述β-葡聚糖，所述
的用量为6％-10％。
进一步优选地，所述
的用量可为6％、7％、8％或10％。
一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物的制备方法，包括下述步骤：以占组合物总重量的重量百分数计，将0.075％-0.1％的类神经酰胺Ⅱ、0.5％-2％的植物甾醇、0.425％-1.7％的硬脂酸和0.25％-0.4％的红没药醇的水溶液加热到80-85℃，均质3-7分钟，冷却到40-45℃，依次加入0.01％-3％的白花百合鳞茎提取物、0.01％-3％的玫瑰花提取物、0.01％-3％的香根鸢尾根提取物、0.5％-3％的1,2-戊二醇、0.5％-3％的4-叔丁基环已醇以及0.3％-0.5％的β-葡聚糖，加入助剂补足到100％，调节pH为5.5-6即可，所述助剂包括保湿剂、油脂、增稠剂、防腐体系、乳化剂以及去离子水中的一种或几种。
优选地，采用3％-4％的
100来替代0.075％-0.1％的类神经酰胺Ⅱ、0.5％-2％的植物甾醇、0.425％-1.7％的硬脂酸和0.25％-0.4％的红没药醇；
采用1％-2％的
1609来替代0.5％-3％的1,2-戊二醇、0.5％-3％的4-叔丁基环已醇；
采用6％-10％的
来替代0.3％-0.5％的β-葡聚糖
在符合本领域常识的基础上，上述各优选条件，可任意组合，即得本发明各较佳实例。
本发明的积极进步效果在于：本发明的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物同时具备止痒、祛红消炎、抗刺痛与灼烧、屏障修复等综合功效，特别对于婴童的皮肤具有深层修复皮肤屏障的效果，对婴童的皮肤温和无刺激。
具体实施方式
下面通过实施例的方式进一步说明本发明，但并不因此将本发明限制在所述的实施例范围之中。
本发明所用原料的来源说明如下：
类神经酰胺Ⅱ可以采用Symrise公司生产的合成类神经酰胺Ⅱ，商品型号为Ceramide BIO391(160106)。Ceramide BIO391是一种新型的合成神经酰胺其结构与天然神经酰胺2的结构相似。Ceramide BIO391采用L-羟脯氨酸、鲸蜡醇和棕榈酸作为原料进行合成，将鲸蜡醇和棕榈酸分别接枝到L-羟脯氨酸上，形成C16/C16的双接枝结构，而天然存在的神经酰胺2为C16/C18的双接枝结构。经过SDS模型的IN VIVO试验，测试参数为TEWL和红斑，试验区域为前臂，应用2％的SDS 24h破坏皮肤屏障，去除残余的SDS溶液，每天应用两次Ceramide BIO391(2mg/cm2)，持续应用9天。证明Ceramide BIO391功效与天然神经酰胺相当，经SDS处理后第五天，基于TEWL值的皮肤屏障完整度与天然神经酰胺相比差距小于8％。
植物甾醇可以采用常规的油菜甾醇。
红没药醇可以采用Symrise公司生产的合成红没药醇，商品型号为
100。
Symrepaire 
为商品名，购自Symrise，商品型号为Symrepiar100(445662)，国际化妆品原料名称为己基癸醇、红没药醇、N-棕榈酰羟基脯氨酸鲸蜡醇、硬脂酸、油菜甾醇类。
Symsitive 
为商品名，购自Symrise，商品型号为SymSitive 1609(399944)，国际化妆品原料名称为1,2戊二醇、4-叔丁基环己醇。
所述白花百合(LILIUM CANDIDUM)花提取物一般是通过浸泡白花百合花于水-丙二醇混合介质中获得。所述浸泡的操作和条件均为本领域常规。所述水和所述丙二醇的配比可为本领域常规。
含有白花百合花提取物的外用组合物，具有保湿、舒缓、杀菌和愈合等作用。所述白花百合花提取物的性能参数优选为：颜色(Gardner指数)为8.0-12.0，20℃时比重(D20/4)为1.025-1.055，20℃时折光率为1.375-1.405，pH值为5.6-7.2，干提取物含量为0.30-2.00g/100g，总需氧菌含量为<100/g，重金属含量(铅)<20ppm，砷含量<1ppm。所述白花百合花提取物可购于嘉法狮(上海)贸易有限公司(GATTEFOSSECHINATRADINGCO.,LTD)产品VEGETOL LILY MCF1968HYDRO。
所述玫瑰(ROSA RUGOSA)花提取物一般是通过浸泡来浅色玫瑰花瓣于水-丙二醇混合介质中获得。所述浸泡的操作和条件均为本领域常规。所述水和所述丙二醇的配比可为本领域常规。
含有玫瑰花提取物的外用组合物，具有滋养、收敛和舒缓等特性。所述玫瑰花提取物的性能参数优选为：颜色Gardner指数6.0-9.0，20℃时比重(D20/4)为1.030-1.050，20℃时折光率为1.383-1.396，pH值4.5-6.0，干提取物含量0.20-1.50g/100g，总需氧菌含量<100/g，重金属含量(铅)<20ppm，砷含量<1ppm。所述玫瑰花提取物可购于嘉法狮(上海)贸易有限公司(GATTEFOSSECHINATRADINGCO.,LTD)产品VEGETOL ROSE MCF789HYDRO。
所述香根鸢尾(IRIS FLORENTINA)提取物一般是通过浸泡来香根鸢尾于水-丙二醇-乙醇混合介质中获得。所述浸泡的操作和条件均为本领域常规。所述水、所述丙二醇、所述乙醇的配比可为本领域常规。
含有香根鸢尾提取物的外用组合物，具有保湿、舒缓、收敛和净化的功效。优选，所述香根鸢尾提取物中还包括0.2～0.4％锌和2UI/mL维他命A(棕榈酸视黄酯)。所述香根鸢尾提取物可购于嘉法狮(上海)贸易有限公司(GATTEFOSSECHINATRADINGCO.,LTD)产品CytobiolTMIris A2。
实施例1-10以及对比例1-10的组分配比见表1-表4。
表1实施例1-5的活性成分的组分
表2对比例1-5的活性成分的组分
表3实施例6-10的组分
表4对比例6-10的组分
实施例1-5以及对比例1-5的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物的制备方法包括以下步骤：将类神经酰胺Ⅱ、植物甾醇、硬脂酸和红没药醇的水溶液加热到80-85℃，均质3-7分钟，冷却到40-45℃，依次加入白花百合鳞茎提取物、玫瑰花提取物、香根鸢尾根提取物、1,2-戊二醇、4-叔丁基环已醇、以及β-葡聚糖，加入助剂，用去离子水补至100％，调节pH为5.5-6即可。
实施例6-10以及对比例6-10的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物的制备方法包括以下步骤：将
100加热到80-85℃，均质3-7分钟，冷却到40-45℃，依次加入VEGETOL LILY MCF1968HYDRO、VEGETOL ROSE MCF789HYDRO、CytobiolTMIris A2、
1609以及
调节pH为5.5-6即可。
效果实施例1
安全性评价，采用人体皮肤斑贴实验测试实施例1-10以及对比例1-10的组合物的安全性。试验方法依据《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)。以封闭式斑贴试验方法，选取50名20-40岁皮肤健康的志愿者参加斑贴测试，将受试样品和空白对照(不置任何物质)样品50mg随机加入到斑贴器中。将加有受试物的斑贴器用专用胶带贴敷于受试者的前臂内侧，用手掌轻压使之均匀地贴敷于皮肤上，24小时后去除受试物，分别于去除受试物斑试器后0.5、12、24、48小时观察皮肤反应，按照《化妆品卫生规范》中皮肤反应分级标准记录其结果。判断标准为：
(？)——可疑反应；仅有微弱的(不清楚的)红斑。
(+)——弱(无疱的)阳性反应；红斑、浸润、可能有小红疹。
(++)——强(水疱)阳性反应；红斑、浸润、丘疹非小水疱。
(+++)极度阳性反应；红肿并有大疱。
(-)——无反应
实施例1-10以及对比例1-10的试验结果见下表5：
表5人体皮肤斑贴试验结果
人体皮肤斑贴试验结果显示：在0.5、12、24、48小时观察皮肤反应，其中实施例1-10所有受试者皮肤反应均为阴性。实施例1-10未出现不良反应，说明本发明的组分安全温和，特别是对婴幼儿的皮肤温和无刺激，适用于婴幼儿产品。对比例中，对比例9由于缺少CytobiolTMIris A2，导致可能出现不良反应。
效果实施例2
采用Comermeter CM825测试皮肤角质层的水合状态：将50mg样品均匀涂抹于测试区域内，在涂抹后l、3、6h测试皮肤的水合状态，测试数据见表6。水合状态值越大，水分含量越大，反之，水分含量越小。考虑到水合状态示数在个体绝对值方面的差异，测算水合状态示数的变化率为评价参数。水合状态示数的变化率为水合状态示数变化率＝(测量值-空白对照值)/空白对照值*100％。水合状态示数变化率越高，保持皮肤水合状态能力越强，保湿效能越强。
表6皮肤角质层的水合状态示数变化率测试结果
表6中可以看出，实施例1-10表现出优异的保持皮肤水合状态的能力。
效果实施例3
通过德国CK公司MC900皮肤评价中心仪器，用不同测试探头，在温度25±2℃，湿度50±10％的测试条件下，测试皮肤角质层的经皮水分散失量(TEWL)：将50mg样品均匀涂抹于测试区域内，测试1、2、6小时TEWL值，并计算TEWL变化率，从而得到经皮水分散失(TEWL)变化率，测试结果见表7。TEWL值单位为g/(m2·h)，皮肤的TEWL值越低，降低的变化率越大，说明防止水分散失的屏障功能越好，反之则越差。TEWL值的变化率为TEWL＝(测量值-空白对照值)/空白对照值*100％，例如1小时水分散失量变化量＝使用产品1个小时后水分含量-使用产品前水分含量。
表7皮肤角质层的经皮水分散失量变化率
表7的结果显示：相对于对比例，本发明皮肤屏障修复制剂的皮肤经皮水分流失值大幅度降低，对皮肤屏障修复的显著效果，因此，本发明皮肤屏障修复制剂在皮肤屏障修复、保湿及持续滋润能力测试结果均较理想。
虽然以上描述了本发明的具体实施方式，但是本领域的技术人员应当理解，这仅是举例说明，本发明的保护范围是由所附权利要求书限定的。本领域的技术人员在不背离本发明的原理和实质的前提下，可以对这些实施方式做出多种变更或修改，但这些变更和修改均落入本发明的保护范围。
Claims (10)
1.一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，所述组合物包括以下重量百分数的组分：
类神经酰胺Ⅱ 0.075％-0.1％
植物甾醇 0.5％-2％
硬脂酸 0.425％-1.7％
红没药醇 0.15％-0.2％
白花百合鳞茎提取物 0.01％-3％
玫瑰花提取物 0.01％-3％
香根鸢尾根提取物 0.01％-3％
1,2-戊二醇 0.5％-3％
4-叔丁基环已醇 0.5％-3％
β-葡聚糖 0.3％-0.5％
余量用水和/或醇类溶剂补足至100％。
2.如权利要求1所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，在所述组合物中，所述类神经酰胺Ⅱ、所述植物甾醇、所述硬脂酸和所述红没药醇的质量百分比之和不超过4％。
3.如权利要求2所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，在所述组合物中，采用
100来替代所述类神经酰胺Ⅱ、所述植物甾醇、所述硬脂酸和所述红没药醇。
4.如权利要求1所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，在所述组合物中，所述1,2-戊二醇和所述4-叔丁基环已醇的质量百分比之和为1％-3％。
5.如权利要求4所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，在所述组合物中，采用
1609来替代所述1,2-戊二醇和所述4-叔丁基环已醇。
6.如权利要求1所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，在所述组合物中，所述白花百合鳞茎提取物的含量1％-3％。
7.如权利要求1所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，在所述组合物中，所述玫瑰花提取物的含量0.01％-1％。
8.如权利要求1所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物，其特征在于，在所述组合物中，采用
来替代所述β-葡聚糖，所述
的用量为6％-10％。
9.一种修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，包括下述步骤：以占组合物总重量的重量百分数计，将0.075％-0.1％的类神经酰胺Ⅱ、0.5％-2％的植物甾醇、0.425％-1.7％的硬脂酸和0.25％-0.4％的红没药醇的水溶液加热到80-85℃，均质3-7分钟，冷却到40-45℃，依次加入0.01％-3％的白花百合鳞茎提取物、0.01％-3％的玫瑰花提取物、0.01％-3％的香根鸢尾根提取物、0.5％-3％的1,2-戊二醇、0.5％-3％的4-叔丁基环已醇以及0.3％-0.5％的β-葡聚糖，加入醇溶剂补足到100％，调节pH为5.5-6即可。
10.如权利要求9所述的修复皮肤屏障的婴童护肤品组合物的制备方法，其特征在于，以占组合物总重量的重量百分数计，采用3％-4％的
100来替代0.075％-0.1％的类神经酰胺Ⅱ、0.5％-2％的植物甾醇、0.425％-1.7％的硬脂酸和0.25％-0.4％的红没药醇；
采用1％-2％的
1609来替代0.5％-3％的1,2-戊二醇、0.5％-3％的4-叔丁基环已醇；
采用6％-10％的
来替代0.3％-0.5％的β-葡聚糖。
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| JP2023016710A (ja) * | 2021-07-21 | 2023-02-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Ｏｂｐ促進剤 |
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| JP2023016710A (ja) * | 2021-07-21 | 2023-02-02 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Ｏｂｐ促進剤 |
| JP7333854B2 (ja) | 2021-07-21 | 2023-08-25 | 株式会社 資生堂 | Ｏｂｐ促進剤 |
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