CN111455521A - Crease-resistant satin gloss fabric and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
Crease-resistant satin gloss fabric and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN111455521A CN111455521A CN202010223685.1A CN202010223685A CN111455521A CN 111455521 A CN111455521 A CN 111455521A CN 202010223685 A CN202010223685 A CN 202010223685A CN 111455521 A CN111455521 A CN 111455521A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D13/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft
- D03D13/008—Woven fabrics characterised by the special disposition of the warp or weft threads, e.g. with curved weft threads, with discontinuous warp threads, with diagonal warp or weft characterised by weave density or surface weight
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D03—WEAVING
- D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
- D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
- D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
- D03D15/44—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads with specific cross-section or surface shape
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
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Abstract
The invention discloses a crease-resistant satin gloss fabric and a preparation method thereof, wherein warp yarns of the fabric are made of polyester filaments with special-shaped cross sections, weft yarns are made of two-component different-shrinkage polyester filaments by weaving, the two-component different-shrinkage polyester filaments are made of high-viscosity polyester and low-viscosity polyester, and the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 55-75% of the two-component different-shrinkage polyester filaments; the fabric comprises the following preparation steps in sequence: twisting warp and weft yarns, warping, drafting and reeding, weaving, detecting cropping, turning over and sewing ends, presetting, pre-treating, dyeing and fixing color, and softening and setting. The warp yarns adopt the polyester filament yarns with the special-shaped cross sections and the double-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarns, and the twisting coefficient, the warp density and the weft density are controlled during preparation, so that the fabric has good hand feeling, good rebound resilience and satin-like luster.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a preparation method of a fabric, in particular to a crease-resistant satin gloss fabric and a preparation method thereof.
Background
The silk satin fabric is popular with consumers because of smooth feeling, softness and brightness, but the silk satin fabric is made of mulberry silk, so that the cost is high, the management is difficult, and the consumption market is limited. The patent CN102704144A discloses a composite silk imitated fabric and a process thereof, wherein the composite silk uses cation differential shrinkage composite silk as a raw material, the composite silk is processed by taking cation slices and polyethylene terephthalate slices as main raw materials and adding master batch, the differential shrinkage of the two raw materials enables the shaped silk to have elasticity, and the imitated silk fabric has surface velvet feeling and wrinkle feeling. The simulated silk fabric with the surface having the velvet feeling and the wrinkle feeling is formed by the differential shrinkage composite silk, but the cloth surface is easy to wrinkle, hook silk, pilling and other quality problems. Patent CN102330247A discloses crease-resistant pure silk fabric, and the warp adopts mulberry silk/spandex covering yarn, and the weft is cotton/polyester fiber covering yarn, and the fabric tissue is twill or satin to realize existing pure silk feel and outward appearance, have elasticity crease-resistant performance again. However, because the bedding fabric is subjected to large friction force and tensile force in use and has high washing frequency, the bedding fabric is required to have good friction resistance, snagging resistance and washing resistance, and cannot have large elasticity. The anti-wrinkle real silk fabric woven by adopting the spandex core-spun yarns has higher elasticity, is easy to wrap under the stress action, and is not suitable for being used as bedding fabric.
Disclosure of Invention
The purpose of the invention is as follows: the invention provides the crease-resistant satin gloss fabric which is not easy to wrinkle and pilling, good in rebound resilience and soft in gloss; the invention also aims to provide a preparation method of the anti-wrinkle satin gloss fabric.
The technical scheme is as follows: according to the crease-resistant satin gloss fabric, warp yarns of the fabric are made of polyester filaments with special-shaped cross sections, and weft yarns of the fabric are made of bicomponent different-shrinkage polyester filaments; the two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarn consists of high-viscosity polyester and low-viscosity polyester, wherein the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 55-75% of the two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarn.
According to the research of the invention, the low-viscosity polyester in the bicomponent different shrinkage polyester filament yarn accounts for less than 55%, the softness and elasticity of the fabric are reduced, and if the low-viscosity polyester accounts for more than 75%, the pilling resistance of the fabric is poor and the elasticity of the fabric is also reduced. Therefore, the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 55-75% of the bicomponent different shrinkage polyester filament yarn, and can ensure high fuzzing and pilling resistance, and good softness and shrinkage of the fabric.
Preferably, the polyester filament with the special-shaped cross section is a polyester filament with an octagonal cross section.
The invention further researches and discovers that compared with the polyester filament with the triangular, trilobal and pentagonal sections, the gloss reflected by the octagonal sections is softer, but on the basis, when the sections of the special-shaped section filaments are divided into more corners, the gloss is greatly reduced, so that the special-shaped section polyester filament is set as the polyester filament with the octagonal sections.
Preferably, the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 60-70% of the bicomponent different shrinkage polyester filament yarns. Researches find that the ratio of the low-viscosity polyester to the bicomponent different-shrinkage polyester filament yarn is in the range, so that the fuzzing and pilling resistance, the softness and the shrinkage of the fabric can be further improved.
Preferably, the cross section of the bicomponent differential shrinkage polyester filament yarn is in an asymmetric parallel type.
According to the preparation method of the anti-wrinkle satin gloss fabric, warp yarns and weft yarns are twisted firstly and then the fabric is prepared, wherein the twisting coefficient of the twisting of the weft yarns is 1500-2000.
The research of the invention further discovers that the double-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarns can be subjected to bending shrinkage in the printing and dyeing process, and the specific expression is that high-viscosity polyester is positioned on the outer side of the bending and low-viscosity polyester is positioned on the inner side of the bending. After the double-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarns are twisted, the bending direction of the fibers is changed, and the fibers are enabled to present a three-dimensional spiral structure along the axial direction, so that the resilience performance of the fabric is improved. On the basis, the twisting coefficient of the twisting of the weft yarn is set in the range, so that the fabric has good rebound resilience and soft hand feeling, and the problems of pilling, fluffing, hard hand feeling and the like of the fabric can be solved. If the twist factor is less than 1500, the obtained fabric has insufficient resilience and is easy to fluff and pilling, and if the twist factor is more than 2000 m/twist, the hand feeling of the obtained fabric is hard.
Preferably, the twist factor of the weft yarn twist is 1800-1900. Through research, the twisting coefficient of the twisting of the weft yarn is in the range, so that the rebound resilience and the hand feeling of the fabric can be further enhanced.
Preferably, the twist factor of the twisting of the warp yarn is 900-1000. The twist factor of the warp yarn twisting is set in the range, so that the scattering direction of fibers can be further disturbed, the reflected light of the fabric is soft and not stiff, if the twist factor is less than 900, the obtained fabric has poor pilling performance and poor gloss, and if the twist factor is more than 1000, the obtained fabric has hard hand feeling and poor gloss.
Preferably, the fabric is prepared by the steps of warping, drafting and denting, weaving, cropping detection, cloth turning and sewing, pre-setting, pre-processing, dyeing and color fixing, and softening and setting. According to the application, the fabric is pre-formed and then is printed and dyed, the printing and dyeing shrinkage rate between the finished product width and the grey fabric width is controlled to be 15-25%, the resilience and the wrinkle resistance of the fabric can be further enhanced, if the fabric is printed and dyed first and then is pre-formed, and in the process, the fabric is not flat, so that the elasticity of the fabric is poor.
Preferably, the warp density of the fabric in the weaving process is 800-900 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 400-500 pieces/10 cm. The warp and weft density is set in the range, so that the brightness of each scattering point of the fabric and the smoothness of the cloth surface can be improved. When the warp density is less than 800 pieces/10 cm, weft yarns of the fabric are easy to expose on the surface, the silk satin feeling of the fabric surface is influenced, and when the warp density is more than 900 pieces/10 cm, the warp density of the fabric is too large, and the fabric cannot shrink during printing and dyeing, so that the resilience performance of the fabric is influenced.
Has the advantages that: compared with the prior art, the invention has the following remarkable effects: (1) the warp yarns of the fabric are made of polyester filaments with special-shaped cross sections, the weft yarns are made of bicomponent different-shrinkage filaments, the bicomponent different-shrinkage filaments are made of high-viscosity polyester and low-viscosity polyester, the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 55-75% of the bicomponent different-shrinkage filaments, and the prepared fabric is not easy to wrinkle, high in fuzzing and pilling resistance, soft in luster and good in hand feeling. (2) In the preparation method, the warp yarns and the weft yarns are firstly twisted to prepare the fabric, and the twisting coefficient of the twisting of the weft yarns is controlled, so that the prepared fabric is good in crease resistance, difficult to pilling, good in resilience, soft and bright as silk satin and suitable for bedding fabrics.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a weave diagram of the present invention wherein ■ represents warp knit points and □ represents weft knit points;
FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional structural view of the weft yarn of the present invention, wherein 1 represents a low-viscosity polyester and 2 represents a high-viscosity polyester.
Detailed Description
The present invention will be described in detail with reference to examples.
Example 1
The preparation method comprises the following steps of: twisting warp and weft yarns, warping, drafting and reeding, weaving, detecting cropping, turning over and sewing ends, presetting, pre-treating, dyeing and fixing color, and softening and setting.
A yarn preparation process: the warp yarn of the fabric is octagonal special-shaped cross section polyester filament yarn, the longitudinal direction is smooth, obvious grooves are formed, the yarn count is 40D, the yarn is subjected to twisting processing, the twisting direction is S twisting, and the twisting coefficient is 900. The weft yarn is made of two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarns, the two components are high-viscosity polyester and low-viscosity polyester respectively, the proportion of the low-viscosity polyester in the two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarns is 55%, the yarn count of the weft yarn is 150D, the yarn is subjected to twisting processing, the twisting direction is divided into an S direction and a Z direction, and the twisting coefficients are 1500 respectively. And performing beating-up weaving on the weft yarns in the two twisting directions according to the arrangement ratio of 1: 1.
Weaving: the warp density of the fabric is 800 threads/10 cm, and the weft density is 400 threads/10 cm. The fabric is woven by a rapier loom or a heavy-duty air jet loom, and the fabric tissue is eight-flyer warp surface satin weave.
Other procedures are conventional processes.
Through detection, the prepared fabric has the gloss, fluffing and pilling performance and softness, and the table 1 shows.
Example 2
The preparation method comprises the following steps of: twisting warp and weft yarns, warping, drafting and reeding, weaving, detecting cropping, turning over and sewing ends, presetting, pre-treating, dyeing and fixing color, and softening and setting.
A yarn preparation process: the warp yarn of the fabric is octagonal special-shaped cross section polyester filament yarn, the longitudinal direction is smooth, obvious grooves are formed, the yarn count is 75D, the yarn is subjected to twisting processing, the twisting direction is S twisting, and the twisting coefficient is 1000. The weft yarn is made of two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarns, the two components are high-viscosity polyester and low-viscosity polyester respectively, the proportion of the low-viscosity polyester in the two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarns is 75%, the yarn count of the weft yarn is 200D, the yarn is subjected to twisting processing, the twisting direction is divided into an S direction and a Z direction, and the twisting coefficient is 2000. And performing beating-up weaving on the weft yarns in the two twisting directions according to the arrangement ratio of 2: 2.
Weaving: the warp density of the fabric is 900 threads/10 cm, and the weft density is 500 threads/10 cm. The fabric is woven by a rapier loom or a heavy-duty air jet loom, and the fabric tissue is eight-five-fly-warp-surface satin weave.
Other procedures are conventional processes.
Through detection, the prepared fabric has the gloss, fluffing and pilling performance and softness, and the table 1 shows. It can be seen that the fabrics prepared in examples 1 and 2 within the parameters defined in the present invention have good rebound resilience, high pilling resistance, excellent softness, and satin-like soft and bright gloss.
TABLE 1 analysis table of gloss, pilling and softness of fabrics
Example 3
The preparation procedure is the same as that of example 1, except that three sets of tests are designed according to different proportions of the low-viscosity polyester in the weft yarn in the bicomponent different shrinkage polyester filament yarn. The test group 3-1 was 60%, the test group 3-2 was 65%, and the test group 3-3 was 70%.
The prepared fabric has the gloss, fluffing and pilling performance and softness through detection, and the table 2 shows. Therefore, within the parameter range limited by the invention, especially when the proportion of the low-viscosity polyester in the bicomponent different shrinkage polyester filament yarn is 60-70%, the rebound resilience, the pilling resistance, the softness and the gloss of the prepared fabric can be further improved.
TABLE 2 analysis table of gloss, pilling and softness of fabric
Example 4
The preparation procedure was the same as in example 1, except that three sets of tests were designed with different weft twist factors. The test group 4-1 was 1600, the test group 4-2 was 1800, and the test group 4-3 was 1900.
The prepared fabric has the gloss, fluffing and pilling performance and softness through detection, and the table 3 shows. Therefore, within the parameter range defined by the invention, especially when the weft yarn twisting coefficient is 1800-1900, the rebound resilience, pilling resistance, softness and gloss of the prepared fabric can be further improved.
TABLE 3 analysis table of gloss, pilling and softness of fabric
Comparative example 1
The warp yarns are respectively a triangular special-shaped section, a trilobal special-shaped section, a pentagonal section and a decagonal section in 4 groups of comparison tests.
The effect on the gloss of the face fabric was compared by changing the profile cross section of the warp yarns in example 1 and comparative example 1, and the results are shown in table 4. Therefore, compared with the filament with the triangular, trilobal and pentagonal cross section, the reflected gloss is softer. When the cross section of the profiled filament is divided into more corners, the gloss is greatly reduced.
Table 4 gloss sense analysis table for fabric
| Irregular cross-sectional shape | Triangle shape | Trefoil shape | Pentagonal | Decagonal shape |
| Sense of luster | Light brightness | Twinkling and shining | Is brighter | Darkness and lightness |
Comparative example 2
The same as example 1, except that the low-viscosity polyester in the bicomponent different-shrinkage polyester filament yarn accounts for different percentages of the bicomponent different-shrinkage polyester filament yarn, 6 groups of comparative tests were designed, and the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 20%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 80% and 90% of each fiber respectively.
The influence of the fuzzing and pilling resistance, softness and resilience of the fabric is compared by changing the percentage of the low-viscosity polyester in the two-component differential shrinkage polyester filaments in the example 1 and the comparative example 2, and the result is shown in the table 5. Therefore, the anti-pilling energy level, the softness and the contractibility of the fabric with the low-viscosity polyester accounting for 55-75% of each fiber are improved, and when the accounting ratio is 60-70%, the anti-pilling energy level, the softness and the contractibility of the fabric can be further improved. If the low-viscosity polyester accounts for less than 55% of each fiber, the softness of the fabric decreases and the elasticity also decreases, and if the low-viscosity polyester accounts for more than 75% of each fiber, the pilling resistance of the fabric becomes poor and the elasticity also becomes poor.
TABLE 5 analysis table for fuzzing and pilling resistance, softness and resilience of fabric
Comparative example 3
The twist factor of the weft yarn twist is not twist, 1200, 1300, 1400, 2100, 2200, 2300, respectively, as in example 1, except that the twist factor of the weft yarn twist is different.
The effects of the level of pilling resistance, softness and resilience of the face fabric were compared by varying the weft twisting coefficients in example 1 and comparative example 3, and the results are shown in table 6. Therefore, the twisting coefficient of the weft twisting is set to 1500-2000, so that the fabric has good rebound resilience and soft hand feeling, and the problems of pilling, fluffing, hard hand feeling and the like can be solved. The two-component differential shrinkage fibers are matched in the twist factor range, so that the fabric has proper resilience and hand feeling, if the resilience is lower than 1500, the obtained fabric is insufficient and easy to fluff and pilling, and if the resilience is higher than 2000, the hand feeling of the obtained fabric is hard. When the twist factor of the weft yarn twisting is set at 1800-1900, the obtained fabric has the best rebound resilience and hand feeling.
TABLE 6 analysis table for fuzzing and pilling resistance level, softness and resilience of fabric
Comparative example 4
The same as example 1, except for the difference in the twist factor of the warp, 10 sets of comparative tests were designed, the twist factors of the twists being no twist, 500, 600, 700, 800, 1100, 1200, 1300, 1400, 1500 respectively. The effect on gloss of the finish was compared by varying the yarn twist factor in example 1 versus comparative example 4 and the results are shown in table 7. Therefore, the twist coefficient of the twisting of the warp yarns is set to 900-1000, so that the scattering direction of the fibers can be further disturbed, the reflected light of the fabric is soft and not stiff, the pilling performance is good, and the hand feeling is soft. When the twist coefficient is less than 900, the obtained fabric has poor fuzzing and pilling performance and bright luster, and if the twist coefficient is more than 1000, the obtained fabric has hard hand feeling and dark luster.
TABLE 7 analysis table for gloss, pilling and softness of fabrics
The fabric prepared by the invention is verified in four aspects of fuzzing and pilling resistance, softness, resilience and luster, and specifically comprises the following steps: determination of pilling Performance of textile fabrics part 2: the modified martindale method, the Phabrometer fabric style instrument and the method for measuring the recovery angle of the wrinkle recovery of the textile fabrics are used for testing, and the gloss is subjectively evaluated by multiple persons and observed by naked eyes. The detection result is that the higher the anti-pilling grade is, the better the anti-pilling performance of the fabric is represented, and the larger the softness and resilience detection result value is, the better the softness and resilience is represented.
Claims (9)
1. The crease-resistant satin gloss fabric is characterized in that: warp yarns of the fabric are made of polyester filaments with special-shaped cross sections, and weft yarns are made of bicomponent different-shrinkage polyester filaments; the two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarn consists of high-viscosity polyester and low-viscosity polyester, wherein the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 55-75% of the two-component differential shrinkage polyester filament yarn.
2. The crease-resistant satin gloss fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the polyester filament with the special-shaped section is a polyester filament with an octagonal section.
3. The crease-resistant satin gloss fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the low-viscosity polyester accounts for 60-70% of the bicomponent differential shrinkage polyester filament.
4. The crease-resistant satin gloss fabric according to claim 1, characterized in that: the cross section of the bicomponent different shrinkage polyester filament yarn is asymmetric and parallel.
5. A preparation method of a crease-resistant satin gloss fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps: the fabric is prepared by twisting warp yarns and weft yarns, wherein the twisting coefficient of twisting the weft yarns is 1500-2000.
6. The preparation method of the crease-resistant satin gloss fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: the twist factor of the weft yarn twist is 1800-1900.
7. The preparation method of the crease-resistant satin gloss fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: the twist factor of the warp yarn twisting is 900-1000.
8. The preparation method of the crease-resistant satin gloss fabric according to claim 5, characterized in that: the fabric preparation process comprises the steps of warping, drafting and reeding, weaving, cropping detection, cloth turning and sewing, pre-setting, pre-processing, dyeing and color fixing and soft setting.
9. The method for preparing the crease-resistant satin gloss fabric according to claim 8, characterized in that: the warp density of the fabric in the weaving procedure is 800-900 pieces/10 cm, and the weft density is 400-500 pieces/10 cm.
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Cited By (2)
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| CN114164587A (en) * | 2021-12-07 | 2022-03-11 | 江苏金太阳纺织科技股份有限公司 | Preparation method of silk-like satin home textile fabric |
| CN115142172A (en) * | 2022-06-01 | 2022-10-04 | 南通帝人有限公司 | Elastic fabric |
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