CN104313769A - Crinkled crepe fabric and weaving process thereof - Google Patents
Crinkled crepe fabric and weaving process thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN104313769A CN104313769A CN201410496421.8A CN201410496421A CN104313769A CN 104313769 A CN104313769 A CN 104313769A CN 201410496421 A CN201410496421 A CN 201410496421A CN 104313769 A CN104313769 A CN 104313769A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a crinkled crepe fabric, which has the innovation points that warp and weft yarns respectively adopt a pair of fiber material yarns formed by cotton fiber yarns and viscose staple fiber spun yarns, and the crinkled crepe fabric is formed through weaving. The production method of the crinkled crepe fabric comprises the following steps of warping, sizing, reeding and weaving, and has the innovation points that the cotton fiber and the viscose fiber are subjected to warping in batch; during the sizing step, the cotton fiber yarns are sized on a front size box, the viscose staple fiber spun yarns are sized on a rear size box, acidic color is dyed, and the viscose fiber is placed on a warp beam close to the rear size box; the warp yarns are reeded and drafted to array to be a warp direction structure, and the weft yarns adopt a two-tone free weft selecting procedure to be fed in according to an array structure. The crinkled crepe fabric has full crinkled crepes and indistinctly appeared checks at the same time, is provided with the crinkled crepes which are arrayed regularly and unevenly, is concave-convex romantic, is full of poetry, is soft in hand feeling, has breathable and moisture absorption caabilities, is comfortable in use and attractive in appearance, is elegant and eye-pleasing in array, is lighter, is cool and comfortable to wear, and is very popular.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of bubble crepe fabric, the invention still further relates to a kind of production method and the special effect yarn thereof that steep crepe fabric, belong to textile weaving field.
Background technology
Bubble crepe fabric is commonly called as " seersucker ", mainly refers to the slim cotton textiles or the cotton fabric that present concavo-convex bubble crape.Its manufacturing technique method comprises and traditional mainly contains five classes with novelty:
(1) weaving process: adopt when weaving through, bubble through two kinds of different warp beams, to bubble through warp let-off speed than ground through fast 30%, grey cloth becomes concavo-convex bubble, becomes cloth through loose formula Final finishing;
(2) chemical method: A, COTTON FABRIC directly prints alkali, and foaming is the seersucker utilizing fiber to meet the concentrated base characteristic that can expandedly concentrate and obtain, and is called alkali seersucker; B, in COTTON FABRIC, local stamps anti-colorable resin, comprehensive alkali immerging, and the seersucker that fiber chance concentrated base expandedly can shrink generation is called resin seersucker;
(3) two kinds of fiber thermal contraction performance differences method are utilized: high-shrinkage polyester is different from ordinary polyester percent thermal shrinkage and make cloth cover form concavo-convex bubble;
(4) thread count method is changed: adopt and be staggered through weft yarn high density area and low density area, around high density area, form bubble;
(5) utilizing elastomeric yarn and non-resilient method: warp thread (A) steeps warp, is non-elastic yarn, and (B) ground warp is elastomeric polyurethane fiber cladded yarn; Weft yarn (c) is elastomeric polyurethane fiber cladded yarn; Foamed portion divides longitudinally into strips.
As everyone knows, because bubble crepe fabric, outward appearance is unique, and quality is frivolous, and cloth cover regularity presents even stereo concave-convex vesicle, and not glutinous body when wearing, cool and comfortable, does not need flatiron after washing, people were mainly used to make children's garment in summer, female's shirt, clothing skirt, nightwear etc. in the past.Current, seersucker is promoted as the new fashion of dress ornament in summer, except the beautiful comfortable seersucker suit of skirt of women, suit, also has short-sleeved shirt for men etc.; Client it is also proposed new demand to bubble crepe fabric fabric: requires more novel, more ecological, to contact human body more pro-skin fabric.
Inventor meets consumer demand to produce better bubble crepe fabric, new bubble crepe shell fabric production method and fibrous material are sought in research, by furtheing investigate cotton and this pair fiber of viscose glue, the chemical composition of viscose is identical with cotton fiber, the product of complete hydrolysis is all β-D-Glucose, but the molecule aggregation degree of viscose glue is more much lower than cotton fiber, the cotton degree of polymerization reaches several thousand even up to ten thousand; The degree of polymerization of common viscose fiber but only has 300-400, and the polynosic fibre degree of polymerization is at about 500-600.The large molecule of viscose contains a lot of hydrophilic radical, the hydroxyl that these large molecules expose and aldehyde radical more than cotton fiber, so the very strong (regain 8.5% of cotton fiber of its hygroscopicity, viscose 13%), simultaneously because viscose has more unsetting district and supramolecular structure than cotton, this just makes the hygroscopicity of viscose greatly increase, and nature elongation can not be there is after soaking in yarn, also untwisting its length can not be increased, by force, anisotropic swelling is there is after moisture absorption, directly a lot of through increasing, also the straight through becoming the length that can only shorten very much greatly yarn of yarn is made, larger shrinkage is produced than cotton fiber yarn.Although performance that is cotton and viscose glue is known, the moistening after-contraction of viscose is large, originally be a difficult problem for large moderns' headache of ready-made clothes clothes, but inventor finds mucilage glue fiber yarn and cotton fiber yarn two kinds of fiber yarns value as a pair shrinkage factor difference, make full use of the shrinkage difference of these two kinds of fibers, carry out yarn design and Dobby Weave Design, the production method that research and design is new and take correlation technique, be formed as novel bubble crepe fabric.
Cotton fiber moisture absorption, ventilative, soft, pro-skin are the natural dress ornament fibers that people advocate most; Viscose mainly with the regenerated celulose fibre that the natural fabrics such as cotton or wood are produced for raw material, has excellent moisture permeability, soft smooth, dyes gorgeous, comfortable and easy to wear, be the important fiber of people's modern garment, these two kinds of fibers are renewable, degradable, resource is sustainable, ecological.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to for deficiency of the prior art, a kind of bubble crepe fabric and production method thereof are provided, make use of many features that viscose imbibition washing shrinkage is larger than cotton, weave in pairs and form new bubble crepe fabric, renewable, degradable, resource is sustainable.
For solving the problems of the technologies described above, the technical solution used in the present invention is:
A kind of bubble crepe fabric, comprise warp thread and weft yarn, its innovative point is: the fibrous material all adopting a pair shrinkage formed with cotton fiber yarn and viscose staple fibre spun yarn two kinds of yarns to differ greatly through weft yarn; The twist factor of design cotton fiber yarn is in 370-390 scopes; The twist factor of design viscose yarn is in 340-360 scopes, and in same fabric, cotton used is identical with the twist direction of spun rayon, is namely all Z and twists with the fingers or S sth. made by twisting; Twist CV%≤4.6% of each yarn simultaneously.
Further, fabric structure designs: fabric structure is designed to through weft yarn property arrangement according to certain rules, cotton fiber yarn and viscose staple fibre spun yarn warp-wise and broadwise all a small group a small group be spaced; Warp-wise and broadwise cotton fiber yarn JC, mucilage glue fiber yarn R line arrange than being JC:R=∑ (a
1-a
n): ∑ (b
1-b
n) (n>=1, " 1-n " represents 1 to group), systemic circulation equals ∑ (a
1-a
n)+(b
1-b
n) root; (a
1-a
nrepresent the radical of warp thread in circulation group, b
1-b
nrepresent the radical of weft yarn in circulation group), systemic circulation number of repetition is determined by cloth width, but differs and be decided to be integer, reaches cloth fabric width degree and namely stops.
Example: the order through the systemic circulation of weft yarn institutional framework of certain fabric, arrangement following (such as getting n=1-10):
Present invention also offers a kind of manufacture craft of steeping crepe fabric, comprise warping, sizing, warp thread denting, weft yarn of weaving cotton cloth enter latitude step, its innovative point is:
Described warping step is cotton fiber yarn and mucilage glue fiber yarn batch warping respectively, make warp beam separately, so that the differentiation of institutional framework two kinds of yarns in sizing, in warping step, yarn arrays is even, winding evenly, even tension, regulation speed 500m/min, hundred myriametre end breakage rates are within 0.6;
Described sizing color separation step is double flute sizing, at a stock tank slurry cotton fiber yarn, and Plus acidic look in another stock tank, look good spun rayon inhaled by sizing also dyeing;
Warp thread denting: the cotton yarn of starching is carried out denting with the spun rayon that starching is also dyeed and gaited; Its order of wearing is and arranges by warp thread design sequence;
Weave cotton cloth: adopt intelligent shuttleless loom, double-colored intelligent free weft selecting, by weft yarn project organization order feeding weft weaving become cloth.
Further; the concrete steps of described sizing color separation step are: at front stock tank slurry cotton fiber yarn; at rear stock tank slurry spun rayon; and warp beam is positioned over close rear stock tank, while rear stock tank adds deployed slurry, add acid dyeing material; give viscose glue starching and dyeing simultaneously; and the mucilage glue fiber yarn fabric width of colouring is slightly narrow in cotton fiber yarn, before doff, place twice leased line at 1m and 2m place, in later process color separation denting; Wet expansion is controlled within 1.5% in sizing.
Beneficial effect of the present invention is as follows:
(1) bubble crepe fabric of the present invention, crape steep full while have again check wherein dimly visible, bubble like rule and irregular, concavo-convex romance and be full of poetic atmosphere, feel is soft, moisture absorption is breathed freely, and take comfortable and attractive in appearance total, arrangement is graceful eye-candy, quality is frivolous, wear cool and comfortable, constant product quality, meet the demand of the new fashion of people's dress ornament in summer.
(2) the present invention has all selected a pair reproducible biomass fiber material-cotton and viscose through weft yarn, and make use of the viscose imbibition washing shrinkage many feature larger than cotton cleverly, and form new bubble crepe fabric material, renewable, degradable, resource is sustainable.
(3) in the present invention, in cotton fiber yarn and viscose staple fibre spun yarn, twist design is determined, compare through multiple contrived experiment and finally determine, this is the scope that a pair fibrous material steeps crape best results on this series of products, for the product quality in later stage is guaranteed.
(4) the washing shrinkage differential effect of cotton fiber and viscose and plant tissue design combine by the present invention, form best Pao Zhou organizational effect, the organization design of this series of bubble crape product, Warp Tension Test circulates, weft yarn arrangement circulates, and find through many money experiments, the sense of cloth cover stereo concave-convex is strong, bubble crape corresponding to hidden lattice, romance and be full of poetic atmosphere.
(5) the present invention is in weaving method, and warp-wise takes acid look on a kind of silvalin to distinguish, and solves through weft yarn color separation and arrangement circulatory problems.
Detailed description of the invention
Below in conjunction with specific embodiment, technical scheme of the present invention is elaborated.
Embodiment 1
One, design, produce the yarn of two kinds of fibers:
(1) Pure Cotton Combed Yarn JC14.5tex, the design twist is 99/10cm;
(2) viscose glue general comb yarn R14.8tex, the design twist is 92/10cm;
The production key of two kinds of yarns is: (1) twist CV% value controls within 4.6%.(2), twist with the fingers to identical.
Two, the design of crape weave specification is steeped
Woven cotton sticky bubble crepe fabric product:
167.5、 R14.8+JC14.5/R14.8+JC14.5 256/285 1/1；
All adopt two kinds of yarns through weft yarn: Pure Cotton Combed Yarn JC14.5tex and viscose glue R14.8tex, arrange ratio, JC:R=80:56, systemic circulation 136 through broadwise cotton and people cotton, arrange as follows:
| R | JC | R | JC | R | JC | R | JC | R | JC | R | JC | R | JC | R | JC | R | JC | R | JC |
| 12 | 4 | 3 | 4 | 3 | 18 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 18 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 4 | 12 | 10 | 6 | 10 |
Three, weaving process step:
Main flow line: ASGA(180) type beam warper------gait machine---ZAX-N-2C type air-jet loom---GA1801 type cloth inspecting machine---G841 type folding machine---A752 type baling press the two oar groove Sizing machines of ASGA365C-S type by G177 type.
Concrete steps:
Warping: warping is the basis of sizing, the quality of warp beam directly has influence on beam of a loom quality, and warp beam answers yarn flake tension even, and yarn file leader is even, and reel smooth no concave-convex bar.Warping process is cotton fiber yarn and mucilage glue fiber yarn batch warping respectively, makes warp beam separately, does the differentiation of institutional framework two kinds of yarns in sizing, in warping step, yarn arrays is even, and winding is even, even tension, regulation speed 500m/min, hundred myriametre end breakage rates are within 0.6.
Sizing: sizing step is double flute sizing, at a stock tank slurry cotton fiber yarn, additive color in another stock tank, look good spun rayon inhaled by sizing also dyeing;
The concrete steps of described color separation step are: at front stock tank slurry cotton fiber yarn; at rear stock tank slurry spun rayon; and warp beam is positioned over close rear stock tank; while rear stock tank adds deployed commercially available slurry; also will add acid dyeing material (commercially available), give viscose glue starching and dyeing simultaneously, and the mucilage glue fiber yarn fabric width of colouring is slightly narrow in cotton fiber yarn; twice leased line is placed at 1m and 2m place, in later process color separation denting before doff; Wet expansion is controlled within 1.5% in sizing;
Effect: (1) in order to stick filoplume, activeness and quietness, guarantor stretch, wear-resisting, for being applicable to this function, major control constant volume 0.7m
3, the rate of sizing 10%, within percentage elongation 1.5%;
(2) color separation: become to be furnished with well bubble crape effect in order to ensure rear road, reduce the elongation of viscose glue R14.8 yarn as far as possible, its warp beam is positioned over close rear size box sizing, consider that this kind warp-wise adopts vast scale cycle arrangement, for avoiding beam of a loom two kinds of yarn twisted wires, file leader must be even, and the viscose glue R14.8 yarn of colouring is slightly narrow in combed cotton JC14.5 yarn, at 1 meter and 2 meters of Party A's twice leased lines before doff.
Warp thread denting: the cotton yarn of starching is carried out denting with the spun rayon that starching is also dyeed and gaited; In strict accordance with specifications design order, radical wears menopause tablet, comprehensive, reed, and respectively stays 2 viscose glue R14.8 yarns, combed cotton JC14.5 yarn at 1/3 and 2/3 place of view picture, for the ease of borrowing head in weaving process, retain nexine leased line, when unloading axle, two people coordinate, handle with care, prevent Yarn break.
Weave cotton cloth: adopt air-jet loom, double-colored free weft selecting, by weft yarn project organization order feeding weft weaving become cloth.This is operating as routine operation, is not repeated at this.
To weave cotton cloth after conventional Final finishing to obtain product.
The present embodiment product quality is up to the standards through textile product quality supervision and test research institute of Jiangsu Province, and report sees the following form.
Cotton sticky bubble cotton crepe 167.5, R14.8+JC14.5/R14.8+JC14.5 256/285 testing result are as follows:
The washing shrinkage differential effect of a pair cotton fiber and viscose is combined with Dobby Weave Design by the bubble crepe fabric of the present embodiment, and preferably Warp Tension Test circulation, weft yarn arrangement circulation, form best Pao Zhou organizational effect; The sense of cloth cover stereo concave-convex is strong, and bubble crape is corresponding to hidden lattice, romance and be full of poetic atmosphere.
In weaving method, warp-wise takes acid look on a kind of silvalin to distinguish, broadwise takes two throw sequence feeding, solve and circulate through weft yarn arrangement, the washing shrinkage effect of viscose glue and fabric tissue effect is utilized to realize designing and steep crape effect, ecology, environmental protection, energy-conservation, both ensure that bubble crape effect, in turn ensure that cloth cover and ready-made clothes dimensionally stable.
Adopt fabric of the present invention, its version is also not limited to the version of the present embodiment, can be the arbitrary like configurations based on the present embodiment.
Claims (4)
1. steep a crepe fabric, comprise warp thread and weft yarn, it is characterized in that: the fibrous material all adopting a pair shrinkage formed with cotton fiber yarn and viscose staple fibre spun yarn two kinds of yarns to differ greatly through weft yarn; The twist factor of design cotton fiber yarn is in 370-390 scopes; The twist factor of design viscose yarn is in 340-360 scopes, and in same fabric, cotton used is identical with the twist direction of spun rayon, is namely all Z and twists with the fingers or S sth. made by twisting; Twist CV%≤4.6% of each yarn simultaneously.
2. bubble crepe fabric according to claim 1, is characterized in that:
Fabric structure designs: fabric structure is designed to through weft yarn property arrangement according to certain rules, cotton fiber yarn and viscose staple fibre spun yarn warp-wise and broadwise all a small group a small group be spaced; Warp-wise and broadwise cotton fiber yarn JC, mucilage glue fiber yarn R line arrange than being JC:R=∑ (a
1-a
n): ∑ (b
1-b
n) (n>=1, " 1-n " represents 1 to group), systemic circulation equals ∑ (a
1-a
n)+(b
1-b
n) root; (a
1-a
nrepresent the radical of warp thread in circulation group, b
1-b
nrepresent the radical of weft yarn in circulation group), systemic circulation number of repetition is determined by cloth width, but differs and be decided to be integer, reaches cloth fabric width degree and namely stops.
3. realize a manufacture craft for bubble crepe fabric according to claim 2, comprise warping, sizing, warp thread denting, weft yarn of weaving cotton cloth enter latitude step, it is characterized in that:
Described warping step is cotton fiber yarn and mucilage glue fiber yarn batch warping respectively, make warp beam separately, so that the differentiation of institutional framework two kinds of yarns in sizing, in warping step, yarn arrays is even, winding evenly, even tension, regulation speed 500m/min, hundred myriametre end breakage rates are within 0.6;
Described sizing color separation step is double flute sizing, at a stock tank slurry cotton fiber yarn, and Plus acidic look in another stock tank, look good spun rayon inhaled by sizing also dyeing;
Warp thread denting: the cotton yarn of starching is carried out denting with the spun rayon that starching is also dyeed and gaited; Its order of wearing is and arranges by warp thread design sequence;
Weave cotton cloth: adopt intelligent shuttleless loom, double-colored intelligent free weft selecting, by weft yarn project organization order feeding weft weaving become cloth.
4. the production method of bubble crepe fabric according to claim 3; it is characterized in that: the concrete steps of described sizing color separation step are: at front stock tank slurry cotton fiber yarn; at rear stock tank slurry spun rayon; and warp beam is positioned over close rear stock tank; while rear stock tank adds deployed slurry; add acid dyeing material; give viscose glue starching and dyeing simultaneously; and the mucilage glue fiber yarn fabric width of colouring is slightly narrow in cotton fiber yarn; twice leased line is placed at 1m and 2m place, in later process color separation denting before doff; Wet expansion is controlled within 1.5% in sizing.
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| CN104313769A true CN104313769A (en) | 2015-01-28 |
| CN104313769B CN104313769B (en) | 2016-09-28 |
Family
ID=52369073
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| CN105133126A (en) * | 2015-08-22 | 2015-12-09 | 徐州斯尔克纤维科技股份有限公司 | Double-layer elastic fabric |
| CN105463886A (en) * | 2015-12-31 | 2016-04-06 | 郑州德惠纺织科技有限公司 | Digital inkjet printing method employing compact siro spinning viscose fabric |
| CN105839324A (en) * | 2016-05-30 | 2016-08-10 | 山东黄河三角洲纺织科技研究院有限公司 | Processing method of seersucker fabric |
| CN106544775A (en) * | 2016-10-18 | 2017-03-29 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth |
| CN106757657A (en) * | 2016-12-31 | 2017-05-31 | 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 | Two-way high convergency sanding man textile fabric |
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| CN107142588A (en) * | 2017-06-21 | 2017-09-08 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of two-sided foaming functional fabric of multilayer and its production technology |
| CN107475856A (en) * | 2017-09-08 | 2017-12-15 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of design and its production technology of star rain crepe fabric |
| CN107675334A (en) * | 2017-08-31 | 2018-02-09 | 长春市久丽日用品有限公司 | Utilize the method for viscose staple fibre and the viscose filament yarn production cellular cloth of 3 D stereo |
| CN108360119A (en) * | 2018-03-26 | 2018-08-03 | 上海阪神服装进出口有限公司 | A kind of denim and preparation method thereof of the uneven blistering blister of cloth cover |
| CN108468230A (en) * | 2018-03-12 | 2018-08-31 | 南通楠桥纹织有限公司 | A kind of cotton yarn high temperature heavy colour dyeing and printing process |
| CN110184713A (en) * | 2019-06-20 | 2019-08-30 | 南通悦业纺织有限公司 | The different production technology and its stripped crepe that stripped crepe is knitted through different latitude color |
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| CN105133126A (en) * | 2015-08-22 | 2015-12-09 | 徐州斯尔克纤维科技股份有限公司 | Double-layer elastic fabric |
| CN105463886A (en) * | 2015-12-31 | 2016-04-06 | 郑州德惠纺织科技有限公司 | Digital inkjet printing method employing compact siro spinning viscose fabric |
| CN105839324A (en) * | 2016-05-30 | 2016-08-10 | 山东黄河三角洲纺织科技研究院有限公司 | Processing method of seersucker fabric |
| CN105839324B (en) * | 2016-05-30 | 2018-04-10 | 山东黄河三角洲纺织科技研究院有限公司 | A kind of processing method of seersucker fabric |
| CN106544775A (en) * | 2016-10-18 | 2017-03-29 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of process for producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard cloth |
| CN106544775B (en) * | 2016-10-18 | 2019-02-12 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of process producing all-cotton yarn-dyed bubble jacquard fabric |
| CN106757657B (en) * | 2016-12-31 | 2018-08-03 | 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 | Two-way high convergency sanding man textile fabric |
| CN106757657A (en) * | 2016-12-31 | 2017-05-31 | 江苏悦达家纺有限公司 | Two-way high convergency sanding man textile fabric |
| CN106835466A (en) * | 2017-01-12 | 2017-06-13 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | One kind discoloration three-dimensional shell fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN106835466B (en) * | 2017-01-12 | 2018-11-02 | 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 | A kind of discoloration three-dimensional shell fabric and preparation method thereof |
| CN107142588A (en) * | 2017-06-21 | 2017-09-08 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of two-sided foaming functional fabric of multilayer and its production technology |
| CN107675334A (en) * | 2017-08-31 | 2018-02-09 | 长春市久丽日用品有限公司 | Utilize the method for viscose staple fibre and the viscose filament yarn production cellular cloth of 3 D stereo |
| CN107475856A (en) * | 2017-09-08 | 2017-12-15 | 江苏工程职业技术学院 | A kind of design and its production technology of star rain crepe fabric |
| CN108468230A (en) * | 2018-03-12 | 2018-08-31 | 南通楠桥纹织有限公司 | A kind of cotton yarn high temperature heavy colour dyeing and printing process |
| CN108360119A (en) * | 2018-03-26 | 2018-08-03 | 上海阪神服装进出口有限公司 | A kind of denim and preparation method thereof of the uneven blistering blister of cloth cover |
| CN110184713A (en) * | 2019-06-20 | 2019-08-30 | 南通悦业纺织有限公司 | The different production technology and its stripped crepe that stripped crepe is knitted through different latitude color |
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