CN111350085A - Production process of denim - Google Patents
Production process of denim Download PDFInfo
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- CN111350085A CN111350085A CN201911338167.8A CN201911338167A CN111350085A CN 111350085 A CN111350085 A CN 111350085A CN 201911338167 A CN201911338167 A CN 201911338167A CN 111350085 A CN111350085 A CN 111350085A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/22—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using vat dyestuffs including indigo
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/14—De-sizing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/32—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond
- D06M11/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with oxygen, ozone, ozonides, oxides, hydroxides or percompounds; Salts derived from anions with an amphoteric element-oxygen bond with hydrogen peroxide or peroxides of metals; with persulfuric, permanganic, pernitric, percarbonic acids or their salts
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
- D06M11/73—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof
- D06M11/76—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with carbon or compounds thereof with carbon oxides or carbonates
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
- D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
- D06P1/673—Inorganic compounds
- D06P1/67333—Salts or hydroxides
- D06P1/6735—Salts or hydroxides of alkaline or alkaline-earth metals with anions different from those provided for in D06P1/67341
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
- D06P5/02—After-treatment
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
- D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Microbiology (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Coloring (AREA)
Abstract
A production process of denim fabric relates to a textile dyeing and finishing technology, in particular to a dyeing process of denim fabric. The method comprises the steps of grey cloth weaving, desizing, mercerizing, coloring, color development and shaping, wherein a Vaseline dye is adopted during coloring. And (4) making the shaped product into clothes, and washing the clothes with ready-made clothes to obtain the clothes with a good version. The fabric formed by the invention has all styles of common jean fabric, also has various colors, the dry and wet wear-resistant color fastness can reach 3-4 grades, the soaping color fastness is good, the color does not fall off, other clothes cannot be stained, the dye has no harm to people, the environmental protection property is good, and the detection is carried out to reach the infant detection standard.
Description
Technical Field
The invention relates to a textile dyeing and finishing technology, in particular to a dyeing process of jean fabric.
Background
Most of the existing jean fabrics are indigo systems, and the process is as follows: dyeing the yarn, weaving, making into garment, washing, and shaping. The dye is prepared from indigo dye, sulfur dye, reactive dye and direct dye.
Therefore, the existing production process has the following problems:
1. the color fastness of the product is poor due to the poor color fastness of the dye, and is only grade 1-2.
2. Due to the fact that the dyes have non-environmental protection factors, serious pollution exists in the whole production process, particularly in the yarn dyeing and washing process links.
3. The fabric is not finished but directly made into clothes and then washed and finished, so that the clothes are not in the right shape, and the clothes are easy to lose shape after being washed and worn, and the wearing effect of the clothes is influenced.
4. Due to poor dye fastness, the color of ready-made clothes is seriously faded, the labor intensity is very high in the washing process, and the production cost is increased.
5. Some high-fastness jean fabrics popular in the market are fixed on the surface of fabrics through strong cross-linking agents, and the cross-linking agents contain heavy metal ions, so that the jean fabrics are extremely harmful to human bodies.
Disclosure of Invention
Aiming at the defects of the existing jean fabric production, the invention aims to provide an environment-friendly and low-cost jean fabric production process.
The method comprises the steps of grey cloth weaving, desizing, mercerizing, coloring, color development and shaping, wherein a Vaseline dye is adopted during coloring.
The shaped product of the invention is made into clothes, and then the clothes are washed by ready-made clothes, thus obtaining the clothes with good model. The method is characterized in that:
1. the coloring method and the steps are different in sequence: the common jean fabric is woven after yarn dyeing; the invention weaves grey cloth of natural color first and then colors the grey cloth, and the formed fabric has all styles of common jean fabric.
2. The type of dye used is different: the common jean fabric adopts the matching use of indigo dye, sulfur dye, reactive dye and direct dye, and the formed color is single; the invention adopts the series of Vaseline dyes, has complete and rich color spectrum and can produce fabrics with various colors.
3. The color fastness is significantly different: the dry and wet wear-resistant color fastness of the common jean fabric only reaches 1-2 grades, the soaping color fastness is very poor, the color is removed once after washing, other clothes can be polluted if the common jean fabric is washed with other clothes in one bath, the dye formula is harmful to operators, and the environment is not protected. The jean fabric has the advantages of 3-4-grade dry and wet wear resistance color fastness, good soaping color fastness, no color loss, no contamination to other clothes, no harm to people due to dyes, good environmental friendliness, and capability of reaching the infant detection standard after detection.
Furthermore, when coloring, the invention adopts a coating machine for coloring, and the drying temperature condition of the coating machine is 150-160 ℃. The adoption of the temperature can ensure that the dye of the Surlyn dye is uniformly distributed on the cloth surface, and the color difference between the front and the back can not be generated.
The Vaseline dye is formed by mixing Vaseline pigment, a thickening agent and water. According to the invention, the color depth and the chromatic light of the vaseline pigment are adjusted according to the requirements of customers so as to meet any color requirement of the customers; the formula also adopts thickening agent and water, the surlyn pigment is mixed into solution by water, and then the solution is adjusted into slurry by the thickening agent, so that the solution can be conveniently and uniformly spread on the cloth surface by a spreading machine.
During color development, the colored cloth is padded in color development liquid, and the Vaseline dye is reduced and developed in a steaming box at 102 ℃, washed and dried; the coloring liquid consists of NaoH, sodium hydrosulfite and water. Firstly, the Vaseline dye can be colored only under the action of NaoH and sodium hydrosulfite, and secondly, the Vaseline dye can be fully colored under the condition of 102 ℃.
In the coloring liquid, the NaoH accounts for 30-50 g/L, and the sodium hydrosulfite accounts for 30-50 g/L. The material proportion can ensure that the Vaseline dye fully reacts to achieve good coloring quality.
The temperature condition for setting is 185 ℃. The sizing at the temperature can ensure the dimensional stability of the jean fabric in the process of making clothes and after making, and can effectively prevent the jean fabric from washing and deforming after wearing.
During desizing, the grey cloth is padded by desizing liquid formed by mixing enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, soda ash and water, and then is cold piled for 24 hours at normal temperature, and then is washed and dried.
The concrete desizing process and temperature have the advantages that:
1. the size on the grey cloth can be removed.
2. Removing grease and vinegar on the cotton yarn.
3. Washing off stains generated during weaving on the grey cloth.
4. Energy conservation and environmental protection.
In addition, when the grey cloth is woven, pure cotton yarns are used as the warp direction, and core-spun cotton yarns formed by using spandex yarns as core yarns and pure cotton yarns as cladding yarns are used as the weft direction for weaving.
The pure cotton yarn is spun by cotton with the fiber length of 32mm, the specific strength of 32cN/tex and the micronaire value of A grade.
The invention selects the cotton with the micronaire value of A grade as the raw material of the cotton yarn, which can greatly improve the yield, the yield is increased from 95 percent to 98 percent, and the loss is smaller.
Detailed Description
Firstly, a denim production process:
the first embodiment is as follows:
1. preparing a grey fabric:
the cotton with the fiber length of 32mm, the specific strength of 32cN/tex and the micronaire value of A grade is taken, and the combed compact siro spinning is adopted to respectively obtain 7 pure cotton yarns and 12 pure cotton yarns.
And then using 70D spandex yarn as core yarn, and coating 12 pure cotton yarns outside the core yarn to obtain the core-spun cotton yarn.
1 piece of 7 count pure cotton yarn and 1 piece of 12 count pure cotton yarn are combined to be used as warp yarn, core-spun cotton yarn is used as weft yarn, and a 230cm imported air jet loom is adopted to weave the warp yarn and the core-spun cotton yarn to form grey cloth.
The specification of the formed grey cloth is as follows: (7s+12s）×（12s+70D）。
Gray fabric gram weight: 300g/m2。
Breadth: 84'.
2. The desizing process comprises the following steps:
the grey cloth is padded by desizing liquid formed by mixing enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, soda ash and water, then cold piled for 24 hours at normal temperature, and then washed and dried.
In the above desizing liquid, enzyme: 35g/L, hydrogen peroxide: 15g/L, soda: 5 g/L.
3. The mercerizing process comprises the following steps:
the operation is carried out according to the sequence steps of liquid rolling, cold heaping, water washing and drying in the conventional process.
Wherein the content of NaoH in the rolling liquid is 180-200 g/L, and the cold stacking time is 4 hours.
4. Coloring process:
preparation of 50kg of indigo paste: respectively weighing blue No. 1: 2 kg; 0.17kg of No. 2 red; no. 3 black 1 kg; 10kg of thickening agent and 36.83kg of water are mixed to prepare 50kg of slurry for later use.
Equipment: ordinary coating machine, cloth speed: 35 m/min, oven temperature 165 ℃.
The process comprises the following steps: and (4) uniformly coloring the slurry on the cloth surface by a coating machine through a scraper.
5. Color development process:
mixing NaoH, sodium hydrosulfite and water to prepare a hair color liquid, wherein the weight ratio of NaoH: 30g/L, sodium hydrosulfite: 30 g/L. And placing the color solution in a water tank for later use.
Equipment: a reduction washing machine.
Cloth speed: 40 m/min, steaming box temperature 102 ℃.
The process comprises the following steps: and (3) padding the cloth obtained after the coloring process with a coloring solution, placing the cloth in a steaming box at 105 ℃ for coloring, washing with water, and drying.
6. A shaping process:
equipment: and (5) setting machine.
Temperature: 185 ℃ C.
Cloth speed: 35 m/min.
7. And (3) finished fabric:
effective width: 145 cm.
Example two:
1. preparing a grey fabric:
the cotton with the fiber length of 32mm, the specific strength of 32cN/tex and the micronaire value of A grade is taken, and the combed compact siro spinning is adopted to respectively obtain 6 and 10 pure cotton yarns.
And then using 70D spandex yarn as core yarn, and coating 10 pure cotton yarns outside the core yarn to obtain the core-spun cotton yarn.
1 piece of 6 pure cotton yarns and 1 piece of 10 pure cotton yarns are combined to be used as warp yarns, core-spun cotton yarns are used as weft yarns, and a 230cm imported air jet loom is adopted to weave the warp yarns and the core-spun cotton yarns to form grey cloth.
The specification of the formed grey cloth is as follows: (6s+10s）×（10s+70D）。
Gray fabric gram weight: 400g/m2。
Breadth: 82'.
2. The desizing process comprises the following steps:
the grey cloth is padded by desizing liquid formed by mixing enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, soda ash and water, then cold piled for 24 hours at normal temperature, and then washed and dried.
In the above desizing liquid, enzyme: 35g/L, hydrogen peroxide: 15g/L, soda: 5 g/L.
3. The mercerizing process comprises the following steps:
the operation is carried out according to the sequence steps of liquid rolling, cold heaping, water washing and drying in the conventional process.
Wherein, the content of NaoH in the mangle is 200g/L, and the cold batch time is 4 hours.
4. Coloring process:
preparing 50kg of deep blue color paste: respectively weighing 2kg of No. 1 blue; 0.17kg of No. 2 red; no. 3 black 2kg of thickener 10kg and 35.831g of water were mixed to prepare 50kg of slurry for later use.
Equipment: ordinary coating machine, cloth speed: 30 m/min, oven temperature 165 ℃.
The process comprises the following steps: and (4) uniformly coloring the mixed slurry on the cloth surface by using a coating machine through a scraper.
5. Color development process:
mixing NaoH, sodium hydrosulfite and water to prepare a hair color liquid, wherein the weight ratio of NaoH: 50g/L, sodium hydrosulfite: 50 g/L. And placing the color solution in a water tank for later use.
Equipment: a reduction washing machine.
Cloth speed: 35 m/min, steaming box temperature 102 ℃.
The process comprises the following steps: and (3) padding the cloth obtained after the coloring process with a coloring solution, placing the cloth in a steaming box at 105 ℃ for coloring, washing with water, and drying.
6. A shaping process:
equipment: and (5) setting machine.
Temperature: 185 ℃ C.
Cloth speed: 35 m/min.
7. And (3) finished fabric:
effective width: 145 cm.
II, garment preparation:
and respectively making clothes on the finished fabrics prepared in the three examples, and then obtaining the washed ready-made clothes through a washing process.
Thirdly, performing various color fastness tests on the ready-made clothes, wherein the results are as follows:
dry and wet abrasion resistance color fastness: 3-4 grade.
Soaping color fastness: and 4, level.
Color fastness to sunlight: 4-5 grade.
Example three:
1. preparing a grey fabric:
the cotton with the fiber length of 32mm, the specific strength of 32cN/tex and the micronaire value of A grade is taken, and 8 and 10 pure cotton yarns are respectively obtained by adopting high-distribution fluid spinning.
And then using 70D spandex yarn as core yarn, and coating 10 pure cotton yarns outside the core yarn to obtain the core-spun cotton yarn.
The grey cloth is woven by a rapier machine by using 2 pieces of 8 pure cotton yarns combined as warp yarns and core-spun cotton yarns as weft yarns.
The specification of gray fabric is as follows: (8s+8s）×（10s+70D）。
Gray fabric gram weight: 344g/m2。
The width of the grey cloth: 192 cm.
2. The desizing process comprises the following steps:
the grey cloth is padded by desizing liquid formed by mixing hydrogen peroxide, liquid caustic soda (NaoH) and water, and then is subjected to wet cold piling for 24 hours, and then is washed and dried.
In the above desizing liquid: 60g/L of NaoH, hydrogen peroxide: 10 g/L.
3. The mercerizing process comprises the following steps:
the operation is carried out according to the sequence steps of liquid rolling, cold heaping, water washing and drying in the conventional process.
Wherein, the content of NaoH in the rolling liquid is 180-200 g/L, and the cold piling time is 4 hours.
4. Coloring process:
preparation of 50kg dark black color paste: respectively taking: 3# Black 6kg thickener 10kg and water 34kg, mixing the above, and making into 50kg slurry for use.
Equipment: the common coating machine is used for coating; the oven temperature of 35 m/min 165 ℃.
The technological process is that a coating machine is adopted to uniformly color the mixed slurry on the cloth surface through a scraper.
5. Color development process:
mixing NaoH, sodium hydrosulfite and water to prepare a hair color liquid, wherein the weight ratio of NaoH: 50g/L of sodium hydrosulfite and 50g/L of color solution are put in a water tank for standby.
Equipment: a reduction washing machine.
Cloth speed: 40 m/min, steaming box temperature 102 ℃.
The process comprises the following steps: and (3) padding the cloth obtained after the coloring process with a coloring liquid, placing the cloth in a steam box at 105 ℃ for coloring, washing with water and drying.
6. A shaping process:
equipment: and (5) setting machine.
Temperature: 185 ℃ C.
Cloth speed: 35 m/min.
7. And (3) finished fabric:
effective width: 145 cm.
II, garment preparation:
and respectively making clothes on the finished fabrics prepared in the three examples, and then obtaining the washed ready-made clothes through a washing process.
Thirdly, performing various color fastness tests on the ready-made clothes, wherein the results are as follows:
dry and wet abrasion resistance color fastness: 3-4 grade.
Soaping color fastness: and 4, level.
Color fastness to sunlight: 4-5 grade.
Claims (9)
1. The production process of the denim is characterized by comprising the following steps: the method comprises the steps of grey cloth weaving, desizing, mercerizing, coloring, color development and shaping, wherein a Vaseline dye is adopted during coloring.
2. The process for producing denim according to claim 1, wherein: the Vaseline dye is formed by mixing Vaseline pigment, a thickening agent and water.
3. The process for producing denim according to claim 2, wherein: and during coloring, a coating machine is adopted for coloring, and the drying temperature condition of the coating machine is 150-160 ℃.
4. The process for producing denim according to claim 1, wherein: during color development, the colored cloth is padded in color development liquid, and Vaseline dye is reduced and developed in a steaming box at 102 ℃, washed and dried; the coloring liquid consists of NaoH, sodium hydrosulfite and water.
5. The process for producing denim according to claim 4, wherein: in the coloring liquid, the NaoH accounts for 30-50 g/L, and the sodium hydrosulfite accounts for 30-50 g/L.
6. The process for producing denim according to claim 1, wherein: the temperature condition for setting is 185 ℃.
7. Process for the production of denim according to claim 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 or 5 or 6, characterized in that: during desizing, the grey cloth is padded by desizing liquid formed by mixing enzyme, hydrogen peroxide, soda ash and water, and then is cold piled for 24 hours at normal temperature, and then is washed and dried.
8. The process for producing denim according to claim 1, wherein: when the grey cloth is woven, pure cotton yarns are used as warp direction, and core-spun cotton yarns formed by using spandex yarns as core yarns and pure cotton yarns as cladding are used as weft direction for weaving.
9. The process for producing denim according to claim 8, wherein: the pure cotton yarn is spun by cotton with the fiber length of 32mm, the specific strength of 32cN/tex and the micronaire value of A grade.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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| CN201811578370 | 2018-12-24 | ||
| CN2018115783708 | 2018-12-24 |
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| CN111350085A true CN111350085A (en) | 2020-06-30 |
| CN111350085B CN111350085B (en) | 2022-08-23 |
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Cited By (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113564790A (en) * | 2021-07-21 | 2021-10-29 | 孙新玲 | Single-layer fabric and sports wear |
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|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113564790A (en) * | 2021-07-21 | 2021-10-29 | 孙新玲 | Single-layer fabric and sports wear |
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| CN111350085B (en) | 2022-08-23 |
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