CN111051588B - Double-sided knitted fabric - Google Patents
Double-sided knitted fabric Download PDFInfo
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- CN111051588B CN111051588B CN201880056063.5A CN201880056063A CN111051588B CN 111051588 B CN111051588 B CN 111051588B CN 201880056063 A CN201880056063 A CN 201880056063A CN 111051588 B CN111051588 B CN 111051588B
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- knitted fabric
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
- D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
- D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
- D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
- D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
- D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
Abstract
The invention provides a double-sided knitted fabric which is formed by plating a 1 st knitting yarn and a 2 nd knitting yarn, wherein the 1 st knitting yarn comprises a composite yarn, the composite yarn comprises a 1 st polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the 1 st polyurethane yarn, and the 2 nd knitting yarn comprises a 2 nd polyurethane yarn.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a double-sided knitted fabric knitted by plating.
Background
When a knitted fabric containing a polyurethane yarn and a yarn other than the polyurethane yarn is used for clothing, the knitted fabric has high stretchability and design properties, and provides excellent wearing feeling.
Patent document 1 discloses a double-sided knitted fabric obtained by plating and knitting a polyurethane yarn having a heat distortion starting temperature of 150 to 190 ℃ and a yarn of synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, and polyvinyl alcohol, regenerated fibers, and natural fibers. According to patent document 1, a knitted fabric in which yarns other than elastic yarns are present on both sides of the knitted fabric and elastic yarns are present on the inner side of the knitted fabric is knitted, whereby the cut portion does not require the occurrence of ending (no hem), stringing, or curling is suppressed.
Documents of the prior art
Patent document
Patent document 1: international publication No. 2009/011440 pamphlet
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In recent years, in order to add value to a knitted fabric, a technique for further improving the stretching force of the knitted fabric has been demanded. In order to increase the stretching force of the knitted fabric of patent document 1, it is considered to increase the content of the polyurethane yarn. However, polyurethane yarns are not easily dyed. Therefore, if the content of the polyurethane yarn in the knitted fabric is increased, a white background exposure phenomenon (japanese original text "mesh ムキ") due to insufficient dye penetration, in which the polyurethane yarn is exposed on the surface of the knitted fabric, tends to occur. Further, the mass per unit area of the knitted fabric is easily increased. In order to reduce the mass per unit area or thickness of the knitted fabric while maintaining the stretching force of the knitted fabric, it is necessary to reduce the yarn other than the polyurethane yarn. In this case, as a result, the content ratio of the polyurethane yarn increases, and therefore, the white background exposure phenomenon is likely to occur.
The invention aims to provide a double-sided knitted fabric which is not easy to generate a white bottom exposure phenomenon, has an expansion force equal to or more than that of a conventional knitted fabric, and can reduce the mass per unit area and the thickness of the knitted fabric.
Means for solving the problems
The present invention relates to a double-sided knitted fabric obtained by plating a 1 st knitting yarn and a 2 nd knitting yarn, wherein the 1 st knitting yarn includes a composite yarn including a 1 st polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the 1 st polyurethane yarn, and the 2 nd knitting yarn includes a 2 nd polyurethane yarn.
According to this double-sided knitted fabric (hereinafter, may be simply referred to as "knitted fabric"), the white background exposure phenomenon is less likely to occur, and the double-sided knitted fabric has durability and stretching force equal to or higher than those of conventional knitted fabrics, and can be reduced in mass and thickness per unit area.
The fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 19 to 112dtex from the viewpoint of improving knitting properties and obtaining a double-sided knitted fabric having a high elastic force.
From the same viewpoint, the fineness of the 1 st polyurethane yarn is preferably 11 to 56 dtex.
The fineness of the non-elastic yarn is preferably 8 to 56dtex from the viewpoint of easily preventing the white bottom exposure or the laddering of the double-sided knitted fabric.
The heat distortion starting temperature of the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ℃. This is because when the double-sided knitted fabric is heat-set, the 1 st polyurethane yarns or the 2 nd polyurethane yarns are easily deformed by being in contact with each other, and are easily appropriately fixed in this state.
The double-sided knitted fabric was stretched to an elongation of 80% at a stretching speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min in the weft direction, and then returned to the original state at a speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min, and this treatment was carried out 3 times to obtain a stress ST1 at the time of stretching to an elongation of 30% at the time of the 3 rd treatment(30)Stress SR1 at the time when shrinkage recovered to 30% elongation in the 3 rd treatment(30)Is divided by 2 to obtain a power value P1(30)Preferably 70 to 180 cN. In this case, the double-sided knitted fabric has a high stretching force.
The power value P1 is compared(30)The value obtained by dividing the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 0.55 to 1.1 cN.m2/g。
Further, the double-sided knitted fabric was stretched to 80% elongation at a stretching speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min in the weft direction, and then returned to the original state at a speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min, and this treatment was carried out 3 times, and stress SR1 at the time of recovering shrinkage to 15% elongation in the 3 rd treatment was carried out(15)Preferably 20 to 100 cN. In this case, the double-sided knitted fabric has a high contractive force even in the low elongation region.
Stress SR1(15)The value obtained by dividing the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 0.07-1 cN.m2/g。
The mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 100-260 g/m2. Even such a light double-faced knitted fabric has a high stretching force.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
According to the present invention, a double-sided knitted fabric is obtained which is less likely to cause a white background exposure phenomenon and has a stretching force equal to or greater than that of a conventional knitted fabric.
Detailed Description
The double-sided knitted fabric of the present embodiment includes the 1 st knitting yarn and the 2 nd knitting yarn. The 1 st knitting yarn includes a composite yarn including a 1 st polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the 1 st polyurethane yarn, and the 2 nd knitting yarn includes a 2 nd polyurethane yarn. The double-sided knitted fabric is plated knitted so that the 1 st knitting yarn appears on both surfaces of the double-sided knitted fabric and the 2 nd knitting yarn is arranged inside the double-sided knitted fabric.
In the present specification, the non-elastic yarn means a yarn other than the elastic yarn. Here, the elastic yarn is a yarn having an elongation of 100% or more under a 5cN load and a recovery rate of 90% or more after 100% elongation.
By plating knitting the composite yarn including the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the inelastic yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn, the ratio of the polyurethane yarn included in the double-sided knitted fabric can be increased without increasing the mass per unit area as compared with a double-sided knitted fabric knitted by plating the polyurethane yarn and the inelastic yarn in the related art. In other words, in order to reduce the mass per unit area and the thickness while maintaining the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric, it is not necessary to reduce the yarn other than the polyurethane yarn as in the conventional double-sided knitted fabric. Therefore, the white bottom exposure phenomenon generated by the increase of the proportion of the polyurethane yarn can be inhibited. Therefore, according to the present embodiment, a double-sided knitted fabric having a stretching force equal to or greater than that of the conventional one and in which the white background exposure phenomenon is suppressed can be obtained.
When the double-sided knitted fabric is heat-set, the 1 st polyurethane yarns or the 2 nd polyurethane yarns are brought into contact with each other and deformed, and are appropriately fixed in this state. Therefore, the double-sided knitted fabric can maintain a high stretching force. Further, the double-sided knitted fabric is less likely to be deformed, yarn displacement, fraying, unraveling, laddering, curling, and the like, and is excellent in durability. Therefore, even after cutting the sheet into an arbitrary shape such as a straight line, a curved line, or a combination of a curved line and a straight line, the edge folding step of tying the cut portion can be omitted.
[ 1 st knitting yarn ]
The 1 st knitting yarn includes a composite yarn including a non-elastic yarn other than the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 1 st polyurethane yarn.
In the 1 st knitting yarn, in addition to the composite yarn including the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the non-elastic yarn, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, polyvinyl alcohol, and the like; regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon; natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk and the like; and composite fibers thereof. Polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulose fibers are particularly preferred. These yarns may be interlaced on the surface on which the 1 st knitting yarn is arranged. In particular, when the same yarn as the yarn selected as the inelastic yarn is used as the yarn other than the composite yarn, the cost required for manufacturing the fabric can be reduced. However, from the viewpoint that the white-bottom exposure phenomenon is less likely to occur and the stretching force equivalent to or greater than that of the conventional double-faced knitted fabric is easily obtained, the ratio of the composite yarn (the sum of the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the non-elastic yarn) in the 1 st knitting yarn is preferably 90 mass% or more.
(composite yarn)
The composite yarn includes a 1 st polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn other than the 1 st polyurethane yarn.
The form of the composite yarn is not particularly limited, and examples thereof include a core yarn, a twisted yarn, and a braided yarn (for example, an air-braided yarn). In particular, the composite yarn is preferably a core spun yarn. This makes it easy to develop the stretchability of the 1 st polyurethane yarn.
The core yarn may be a Single Core Yarn (SCY) in which the non-elastic yarn is wound in a single layer around the 1 st polyurethane yarn, or may be a Double Core Yarn (DCY) in which the non-elastic yarn is wound in two layers in different directions around the 1 st polyurethane yarn. In particular, the single core yarn is preferable from the viewpoint that the obtained double-sided knitted fabric is easily thinned and the air permeability of the double-sided knitted fabric is easily improved.
When the composite yarn is a core spun yarn or a twisted yarn, the number of twists is preferably 100 to 1800T/m. When the number of twists is 100T/m or more, the processing stability in knitting the double-sided knitted fabric is easily improved, the ratio of the 1 st polyurethane yarn to be coated is increased, and the white background exposure phenomenon is less likely to occur. When the yarn thickness is 1800T/m or less, the 1 st polyurethane yarn is less likely to be restrained and the stretchability is less likely to be impaired.
When the composite yarn is a union yarn, the number of the union yarns is preferably 30 to 150/m. If the number of interweaving is 30/m or more, the processing stability at the time of knitting is high, and if it is 150/m or less, the ratio of the 1 st polyurethane yarn to be covered does not become excessively high, and the 1 st polyurethane yarns are easily appropriately fixed to each other.
In the case of producing the covering yarn and the interlaced yarn, the ratio (draw ratio) at which the 1 st polyurethane yarn is drawn is preferably 1.8 to 3.8. When the draw ratio is 1.8 or more, the fineness of the composite yarn becomes too large, or the yarn length becomes too short, which is suppressed. When the draw ratio is 3.8 or less, the occurrence of fuzz and yarn breakage is prevented, and troubles during knitting of the double-jersey knitted fabric and other processing are easily suppressed.
The fineness of the composite yarn is preferably 19 to 112dtex, and more preferably 34 to 67 dtex. When the fineness is 19dtex or more, yarn breakage is easily suppressed when the double-sided knitted fabric including the 1 st knitting yarn and the 2 nd knitting yarn is heat-set, and the elongation recovery and the reduction in the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric are less likely to occur. Further, when the fineness is 112dtex or less, the knitting property is easily improved, and the phenomenon that the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric becomes excessive is suppressed.
(1 st polyurethane yarn)
The fineness of the 1 st polyurethane yarn is preferably 11 to 56dtex, and more preferably 15 to 44 dtex. When the fineness is 11dtex or more, yarn breakage is easily suppressed when the double-sided knitted fabric including the 1 st knitting yarn and the 2 nd knitting yarn is heat-set, and the elongation recovery property or the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric is hardly reduced. If the fineness is 56dtex or less, the knitting property is easily improved, and the phenomenon that the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric becomes excessive is suppressed.
The heat distortion starting temperature of the 1 st polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ℃. Thus, when the double-sided knitted fabric is subjected to heat setting or the like, the 1 st polyurethane yarns come into contact with each other and are easily deformed. On the other hand, the deformed 1 st polyurethane yarns are not completely fixed to each other, but can be appropriately fixed. Further, even when the double-sided knitted fabric is heat-set at a high temperature of 195 to 205 ℃, the 1 st polyurethane yarn is less likely to be brittle, and therefore the stretchability or strength is less likely to be impaired. Here, the heat distortion starting temperature of the polyurethane yarn can be measured, for example, as follows.
(Heat distortion initiation temperature)
The measurement can be carried out using a thermal stress tester (for example, KE-2S available from old-fashioned Engineering Co., Ltd.). A jig having hooks was installed above and below the tester, and the polyurethane yarn to be measured was twisted (hank yarn) 10 times between the upper and lower hooks. The periphery of the twisted polyurethane yarn was heated at 2.2 ℃/sec in a state where an initial load of 20cN was applied to the twisted polyurethane yarn, and the temperature at which the load applied to the twisted polyurethane yarn became 20cN again was measured. This measurement was performed twice, and the average of the two measurements was defined as the heat distortion starting temperature.
The 1 st polyurethane yarn may be used alone, or two or more kinds of polyurethane yarns may be used in combination.
(non-elastic yarn)
The non-elastic yarn included in the 1 st knitting yarn is, for example, a fiber having an elastic modulus smaller than that of the 1 st polyurethane yarn. As such fibers, synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon, acrylic, polyvinyl alcohol, and the like; regenerated cellulose fibers such as rayon; natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, silk and the like; and composite fibers thereof. Polyester, nylon and regenerated cellulose fibers are particularly preferred. The non-elastic yarn may be used alone or in combination of two or more. In particular, when the double-sided knitted fabric is subjected to the sulfonate treatment and the heat setting treatment described later, the non-elastic yarn preferably contains polyester, nylon, and regenerated cellulose fibers. This is because embrittlement of the yarn, such as yellowing, is easily suppressed even when heat-setting is performed at a high temperature (for example, 195 to 205 ℃) after the sulfonate-containing treatment liquid is applied.
The fineness of the non-elastic yarn is preferably in a range of 0.3 to 3 in terms of the fineness ratio of the 1 st polyurethane yarn to the non-elastic yarn, i.e., the non-elastic yarn/the 1 st polyurethane yarn. When the fineness ratio is 0.3 or more, the white background is less likely to be exposed, and the appearance or hand of the double-faced knitted fabric is improved. When the fineness ratio is 3 or less, the occurrence of laddering is easily suppressed.
The fineness of the non-elastic yarn is preferably 8 to 56dtex, and more preferably 15 to 44 dtex. When the fineness is 8dtex or more, the yarn breakage is not likely to occur, and the ratio of the 1 st polyurethane yarn exposed to the surface of the composite yarn is easily suppressed from being too large. When the fineness is 56dtex or less, the stretchability of the 1 st polyurethane yarn is easily exhibited, and the stretchability of the entire composite yarn is improved. In addition, the case where the exposure ratio of the 1 st polyurethane yarn is excessively small is suppressed, and the effect of preventing yarn drawing is easily obtained.
[ 2 nd knitting yarn ]
The 2 nd knitting yarn includes a 2 nd polyurethane yarn. The 2 nd knitting yarn may include, in addition to the 2 nd polyurethane yarn, a yarn exemplified as a yarn other than the composite yarn in the 1 st knitting yarn. Among them, the ratio of the 2 nd polyurethane yarn in the 2 nd knitting yarn is preferably 90 mass% or more from the viewpoint that the white bottom exposure phenomenon is less likely to occur and the stretching force equivalent to or higher than that of the conventional double-faced knitted fabric is easily obtained.
(No. 2 polyurethane yarn)
The fineness of the 2 nd polyurethane yarn is preferably 11 to 56dtex, and more preferably 17 to 44 dtex. When the fineness is 11dtex or more, yarn breakage is easily suppressed when the double-sided knitted fabric including the 1 st knitting yarn and the 2 nd knitting yarn is heat-set, and the elongation recovery property or the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric is hardly reduced. If the fineness is 56dtex or less, the knitting property is easily improved, and the phenomenon that the stretching force of the double-sided knitted fabric becomes excessive is suppressed.
The heat distortion starting temperature of the 2 nd polyurethane yarn is preferably 150 to 190 ℃. Thus, when the double-sided knitted fabric is subjected to heat setting or the like, the 2 nd polyurethane yarns are easily deformed by contacting each other, and the deformed 2 nd polyurethane yarns are appropriately fixed without being completely fixed to each other. Further, even when the double-sided knitted fabric is heat-set at a high temperature of 195 to 205 ℃, the 2 nd polyurethane yarn is not easily embrittled, and therefore the stretchability or the strength is not easily impaired.
[ double-sided knitted Fabric ]
The double-sided knitted fabric of the present embodiment is a double-sided knitted fabric which is plated knitted so that the 1 st knitting yarn is disposed on both surfaces of the double-sided knitted fabric and the 2 nd knitting yarn is disposed inside the double-sided knitted fabric.
The fineness ratio of the composite yarn to the 2 nd polyurethane yarn in the double-sided knitted fabric, namely the 2 nd polyurethane yarn/composite yarn, is preferably 0.3-3, and more preferably 0.5-2. When the fineness ratio is less than 0.3, the white background is likely to be exposed, and the appearance and texture of the double-knit fabric may be deteriorated. When the fineness ratio is more than 3, the occurrence of laddering is not easily suppressed.
In the double-sided knitted fabric as a whole, the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn, that is, the non-elastic yarn/the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn is preferably 0.75 to 4, and more preferably 1 to 3. When the mass ratio is less than 0.75, the white background is easily exposed, and the appearance or hand of the double-sided knitted fabric is impaired. If the mass ratio is greater than 4, the occurrence of yarn threading is not easily suppressed.
The thickness of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 380 to 600 μm. If the thickness is within the above range, the wearing feeling of the double-sided knitted fabric when used as clothing is easily improved.
In addition, the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 100 to 260g/m2More preferably 120 to 200g/m2. The mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric was 100g/m2In the above case, sufficient strength can be obtained. Further, the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric was 260g/m2In the following, the wearing feeling of the double-sided knitted fabric when used as clothing is easily improved.
The product of the warp density and the weft density of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 5000/square inch or more. The greater the product of the warp density and the weft density, the more easily the tension applied to each stitch is reduced when the double-sided knitted fabric is stretched in the warp direction and the weft direction. Therefore, even when the force (restraining force) for maintaining the coil is small, the occurrence of the yarn breakage is easily suppressed.
The elongation of the clothing (knitted fabric) when worn is generally 20 to 30%. Therefore, the double-sided knitted fabric preferably exhibits sufficient tightness (tightening force) at such an elongation. Further, it is preferable that sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained even in the case of a lower elongation (for example, in the case of an elongation of 10 to 15%).
Double-sided knitted fabric on both sidesThe weft direction of the knitted fabric is elongated to 80% elongation at a tensile rate of 300 + -20 mm/min, and then is returned to the original state at a rate of 300 + -20 mm/min, and the treatment is performed 3 times, and the stress ST1 at the time of elongation to 30% in the 3 rd treatment is obtained(30)Stress SR1 at the time when shrinkage recovered to 30% elongation(30)Is divided by 2 to obtain a power value P1(30)Preferably 70 to 180 cN. Power value P1(30)Within this range, a sufficient tightening feeling can be easily obtained from the double-sided knitted fabric.
Power value P2 determined in the same manner as described above, except that the double-sided knitted fabric was stretched in the warp direction(30)Also preferably 70 to 180 cN. In addition, the power value P1 in the weft direction may be set(30)And power value P2 of warp direction(30)Collectively referred to as power value P(30). Similarly, the weft direction stress ST1 may be set(30)And the warp direction ST2(30)Overall called stress ST(30)Stress SR1 in weft direction(30)And SR2 of warp direction(30)Generally referred to as stress SR(30)。
When the double-sided knitted fabric is stretched in the weft direction, the power value P1 is set(30)The value obtained by dividing the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 0.55 to 1.1 cN.m2(ii) in terms of/g. When the value is within this range, sufficient tightening can be obtained even when the fabric is lightweight.
The double-sided knitted fabric was stretched to 80% elongation at a stretching speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min in the weft direction, and then returned to the original state at a speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min, and this treatment was carried out 3 times, and in the 3 rd treatment, the stress SR1 at the time when the shrinkage was returned to 15% elongation was obtained(15)Preferably 20 to 100cN, more preferably 25 to 50 cN. In this case, the double-sided knitted fabric has a high contractive force even in the low elongation region.
Further, in order to obtain a good wearing feeling, stress SR1 was applied to the warp direction of the double-faced knitted fabric(15)Stress SR2 determined in the same manner(15)Preferably 10 to 100cN, more preferably 25 to 50 cN. In addition, stress SR1 is sometimes set(15)And SR2(15)Generally referred to as stress SR(15)。
And power value P(30)Likewise, power value P(15)Stress ST at the time of elongation to 15% elongation in the 3 rd treatment(15)Stress SR at the time when shrinkage recovered to 15% elongation(15)Is divided by 2. Power value P1 when double-sided knitted fabric is extended and restored in weft direction(15)Preferably 38 to 80 cN. Power value P1(15)Within this range, a sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained. Further, the power value P2 when the double-sided knitted fabric is stretched and restored in the warp direction(15)Preferably 15 to 55 cN. Here, stress ST(15)Stress in the weft direction ST1(15)And the warp direction ST2(15)General term of (1), power value P(15)Is the power value P1 of the weft direction(15)And power value P2 of warp direction(15)Is a general term for (1).
When the double-sided knitted fabric is stretched in the weft direction, the power value P1 is set(15)The value obtained by dividing the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 0.2 to 0.5 cN.m2(ii) in terms of/g. When the above value is within this range, a sufficient tightening feeling can be obtained even when the fabric is lightweight.
In addition, when the double-sided knitted fabric is stretched in the weft direction, the stress SR1 is set to be the stress(15)The value obtained by dividing the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is preferably 0.07-1 cN.m2(ii) in terms of/g. When the above value is within this range, the double-sided knitted fabric is light in weight and can exhibit a sufficient sense of compression.
(Power value)
The power value can be determined, for example, in the following manner.
3 test pieces having a width of 2.5cm and a length of 16cm were cut out from the double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction, respectively. The test piece having a length of 16cm in the weft direction was used for determining the power value in the weft direction, and the test piece having a length of 16cm in the warp direction was used for determining the power value in the warp direction. When a test piece having such a size cannot be cut out of the double-sided knitted fabric to be measured, a test piece smaller than this size may be used. However, since the measurement error increases as the test piece becomes smaller, it is preferable to cut out and collect a test piece having a size close to the above size within a possible range to measure.
Each stress was measured using a constant-speed elongation tensile tester (Autograph, AG-500D, manufactured by Shimadzu corporation). When the test piece was mounted on the testing machine, the length of the portion of the test piece gripped by the upper grip (hereinafter referred to as the upper grip length) was 2.5cm, the length of the portion of the test piece gripped by the lower grip (hereinafter referred to as the lower grip length) was 3.5cm, and the interval between the upper grip and the lower grip (hereinafter referred to as the grip interval) was defined as 10 cm. The gripping interval was elongated to 80% elongation at a drawing speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min in the weft direction or the warp direction, and then returned to the original state at a speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min, and the treatment was performed 3 times, and the stress ST at the time of elongation to 30% (or 15%) elongation at the 3 rd treatment was measured(30)(or ST)(15)) Stress SR at the time when shrinkage returns to 30% (or 15%) elongation(30)(or SR)(15)). By applying stress ST(30)(or ST)(15)) And stress SR(30)(or SR)(15)) The power value is obtained by dividing the sum of (2). The average value of 3 test pieces was defined as power value P(30)(or P)(15))。
The double-sided knitted fabric preferably has an elongation (constant load elongation) of 100% or more when a 14.7N load is applied in both the warp direction and the weft direction. When the constant load elongation is 100% or more, the wearing feeling of the garment obtained from the double-sided knitted fabric is easily improved. The stretch recovery rate of the double-sided knitted fabric, which is determined based on the constant load elongation, is preferably 90% or more. When the stretch recovery rate of the double-sided knitted fabric is 90% or more, the wearing feeling and the shape retention property are easily improved. The constant-load elongation and the elongation recovery of the double-sided knitted fabric can be measured by the following methods, for example.
(elongation at constant load)
3 test pieces having a width of 2.5cm and a length of 16cm were cut out from the double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction, respectively. A test piece having a length of 16cm in the weft direction was used for the measurement of the elongation at constant load in the weft direction, and a test piece having a length of 16cm in the warp direction was used for the measurement of the elongation at constant load in the warp direction. The constant load elongation was measured using a constant-speed elongation tensile tester (AG-500D, manufactured by Autograph, Shimadzu corporation). The test piece was mounted on a test piece grip part of a tensile testing machine at a gripping interval of 10cm, and then the elongation at which a load of 14.7N was applied to the test piece in the weft direction or the warp direction at an elongation rate of 300 mm/min was measured. The environment for the measurement was set to 20 ℃ and 65% relative humidity.
(elongation recovery rate)
3 test pieces having a width of 2.5cm and a length of 16cm were cut out from the double-faced knitted fabric in the weft direction and the warp direction, respectively. A test piece having a length of 16cm in the weft direction was used for the measurement of the weft-direction elongation recovery rate, and a test piece having a length of 16cm in the warp direction was used for the measurement of the warp-direction elongation recovery rate. The elongation recovery was measured using a constant-speed elongation tensile tester (Autograph, AG-500D, manufactured by Shimadzu corporation). A toothed jig was used as a test piece jig part of the testing machine. The test piece was mounted to a testing machine in such a manner that the upper grip length was 2.5cm and the lower grip length was 3.5cm, and the elongation was measured under the conditions of table 1 from the constant load elongation. The recovery from elongation was repeated 3 times at a rate of 30. + -.2 cm/min, and the recovery from elongation was plotted. The set elongation and the residual elongation were read, and the recovery ratio was calculated from the following formula (1).
Recovery (%) - (L-L0)/L.times.100 (1)
(wherein L represents a predetermined elongation and L0 represents a residual elongation.)
[ Table 1]
Distinguishing | Set elongation |
Elongation at constant load of 80% or more | 80% |
The elongation at constant load is more than 60 percent and less than 80 percent | 60% |
The elongation at constant load is more than 40 percent and less than 60 percent | 40% |
[ knitting of double-knit Fabric ]
The double-sided knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be knitted appropriately by weft knitting such as plain knitting, rib knitting, reversible knitting, circular knitting, and interlock knitting. In particular, the double knit fabric is preferably knitted on the basis of a interlock knit. Thus, a double-sided knitted fabric having the same texture in the front and back, smoothness, and a moderate stretching force can be obtained.
[ sulfonate treatment of double-knit Fabric ]
In the double-sided knitted fabric, the sulfonate treatment is preferably performed in view of suppressing yellowing or embrittlement of the non-elastic yarn at the time of heat setting.
The sulfonate treatment is performed by immersing the double-sided knitted fabric in a treatment liquid containing sulfonate. The treatment liquid containing a sulfonate is an aqueous solution containing a sulfonate, a nonvolatile acid, a chelating agent, and the like. Sodium benzenesulfonate or the like can be used as the sulfonate. Tartaric acid or the like can be used as the nonvolatile acid. As the chelating agent, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) or the like can be used. The composition of the treatment liquid and the concentration thereof can be appropriately adjusted depending on the kind of yarn contained in the double-sided knitted fabric and the like. For example, an aqueous solution containing 4 mass% of sodium benzenesulfonate, 1 mass% of tartaric acid, and 0.1 mass% of EDTA can be used as the treatment solution.
The treatment time, treatment temperature, and the like of the sulfonate treatment are not particularly limited, and may be appropriately determined depending on the type of yarn included in the double-sided knitted fabric, and the like.
[ Heat setting of double-knit Fabric ]
The double knit fabric is preferably heat set. By performing heat setting, the 1 st polyurethane yarns or the 2 nd polyurethane yarns are brought into contact with each other and are appropriately fixed in a deformed state. Thus, a double-sided knitted fabric free from laddering or curling can be obtained.
The temperature conditions for heat setting may be set appropriately according to the type of yarn contained in the double-sided knitted fabric. For example, when the heat distortion starting temperature of the 1 st and 2 nd polyurethane yarns is 150 to 190 ℃, the heat setting is preferably performed under the condition of 195 to 205 ℃. Further, by performing the sulfonate treatment before the heat setting, embrittlement and yellowing of the non-elastic yarn included in the composite yarn can be suppressed even when the heat treatment is performed at a high temperature of 195 to 205 ℃. The heat setting may be dry heat setting or wet heat setting.
[ others ]
The double-sided knitted fabric can be processed by a conventionally known method, which is usually performed on knitted fabrics, such as refining, dyeing, resin processing, napping, and finishing with a wax. Finally, final setting such as heat treatment is performed in such a manner that the density of the finished product reaches the design value.
The present invention will be described in further detail with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to the examples.
[ example 1]
(1) Production of composite yarn
A core spun yarn was produced as a composite yarn. As the core yarn of the covering yarn, 22dtex polyurethane yarn (No. 1 polyurethane yarn, manufactured by Toyo Opelontex Co., Ltd., LYCRA (registered trademark) T-127C, heat distortion starting temperature 178 ℃ C.) was used, and as the sheath yarn, 22dtex/7f nylon filament (non-elastic yarn) was used. The core yarn was extended at a draw ratio of 2.3 by using a covering machine, and the sheath yarn was wound around the core yarn with a twist number of 300T/m and a Z twist to obtain a single core-covered yarn (composite yarn). The fineness of the composite yarn was 28.6 dtex.
(2) Knitting of double-sided knitted fabric
The composite yarn obtained in (1) and a nylon filament of 22dtex/7f were used as the 1 st knitting yarn, and a polyurethane yarn of 33dtex (the 2 nd polyurethane yarn, heat distortion starting temperature 178 ℃ C.) was used as the 2 nd knitting yarn.
The 1 st knitting yarn and the 2 nd knitting yarn were fed simultaneously from the same yarn feeding frame to the needles on both sides of the disc/cylinder using a double circular knitting machine (diameter 303.07cm, gauge 40) manufactured by fujiuchi corp, incorporated by plating knitting, and knitted into a double-sided knitted fabric by a interlock structure so that the 2 nd polyurethane yarn is arranged on the inner side of the knitted fabric. The 22dtex/7f nylon filaments were interlaced in a manner alternating one by one with the composite yarn obtained in (1).
(3) Treatment of double-sided knitted fabrics
The obtained double-sided knitted fabric was refined and then immersed in an aqueous solution containing 4 mass% of sodium benzenesulfonate, 1 mass% of tartaric acid (non-volatile acid), and 0.1 mass% of EDTA (chelating agent) at room temperature for 5 seconds. Then, the double knit fabric was dry-heat-set at 195 ℃ for 1 minute.
Then, as the dye, using amyl yellow FD-3RL (manufactured by sumitomo chemical industries co., ltd., 0.3% o.w.f.), (onweight textile), amyl Red FD-GL (manufactured by sumitomo chemical industries co., ltd., 0.3% o.w.f.), and amyl Blue FD-GL (manufactured by sumitomo chemical industries co., ltd., 0.3% o.w.f.), a double-sided knitted fabric was dyed by a flow dyeing machine at 100 ℃ according to a usual recipe.
Subsequently, the double-sided knitted fabric was brought into contact with a wet pad containing 0.6 mass% of a finishing resin Parasilicon G-284 (manufactured by Dayu Paragalium Chemicals) at 170 ℃ for 1 minute to perform final setting. The resulting double knit fabric had a finished density of 126 courses/inch and 55 wales/inch, and the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the 1 st and 2 nd polyurethane yarns was 3.9 in the entire double knit fabric. The double-sided knitted fabric had a thickness of 560 μm and a mass W per unit area of 173g/m2。
(4) Evaluation of
The obtained double-sided knitted fabric was evaluated as follows. The results are shown in table 2.
(Power value)
From the obtained double-sided knitted fabric, 3 test pieces each having a width of 2.5cm and a length of 16cm were cut in the weft direction and the warp direction. The test piece having a length of 16cm in the weft direction was used to determine the power value in the weft direction, and the test piece having a length of 16cm in the warp direction was used to determine the power value in the warp direction. The upper nip length was determined to be 2.5cm, the lower nip length was determined to be 3.5cm, and the nip interval was determined to be 10cm, and the measurement was carried out using a constant-speed elongation tensile tester (AG-500D, manufactured by Autograph, Shimadzu corporation).
The obtained double-sided knitted fabric was stretched at a pick-up interval to 80% at a stretching speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min in the weft direction or warp direction, and then restored to the original state at a speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min, and the treatment was carried out 3 times, and the stress ST at the time of stretching to 30% (or 15%) elongation at the time of the 3 rd treatment was measured(30)(or ST)(15)) Stress SR at the time of recovery to elongation 30% (or elongation 15%)(30)(or SR)(15)) The power value is obtained by dividing the sum of (2). The average power value of the 3 test pieces in the weft direction was defined as power value P1(30)(or P1(15)) The average power value of the 3 test pieces in the meridian direction was defined as power value P2(30)(or P2(15))。
In addition, when the weft direction is elongated, the power value P1 obtained is obtained(30)And P1(15)A value obtained by dividing the weight W per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric by SR1(15)Divided by the mass per unit area W of the double knit fabric.
(elongation at constant load)
From the obtained double-sided knitted fabric, 3 test pieces each having a width of 2.5cm and a length of 16cm were cut in the weft direction and the warp direction. A test piece having a length of 16cm in the weft direction was used for the measurement of the elongation at constant load in the weft direction, and a test piece having a length of 16cm in the warp direction was used for the measurement of the elongation at constant load in the warp direction. A test piece was mounted on a constant-speed elongation tensile tester (AG-500D, Shimadzu corporation) at a nip interval of 10cm, and the elongation of the test piece in the weft direction or warp direction under a load of 14.7N was measured at an elongation rate of 300 mm/min. The environment was measured at 20 ℃ and 65% relative humidity.
(elongation recovery rate)
From the obtained double-sided knitted fabric, 3 test pieces each having a width of 2.5cm and a length of 16cm were cut in the weft direction and the warp direction. A test piece having a length of 16cm in the weft direction was used for the measurement of the weft-direction elongation recovery rate, and a test piece having a length of 16cm in the warp direction was used for the measurement of the warp-direction elongation recovery rate. The elongation recovery was measured by a constant-speed elongation tensile tester (Autograph, AG-500D, manufactured by Shimadzu corporation). A toothed jig was used in the test piece jig portion of the testing machine. The test piece was mounted on a testing machine so that the upper grip length was 2.5cm and the lower grip length was 3.5cm, and the elongation was measured under the conditions shown in Table 1. Then, elongation recovery was repeated 3 times at a rate of 30. + -.2 cm/min, and an elongation recovery curve was plotted. The set elongation and the residual elongation were read, and the recovery ratio was calculated from the formula (1).
(tightening feeling)
Stress SR1 from weft direction(15)The tightening feeling was evaluated according to the following criteria.
Optimally: SR1(15)Is 25 to 50cN
Good: SR1(15)Is 20cN or more and less than 25cN, or more than 50cN and less than 100cN
Poor: SR1(15)Less than 20cN, or greater than 100cN
(feeling of wearing)
In the above evaluation of the shrinkage feeling, stress SR2 in the warp direction was evaluated according to the following criteria(15)As a result of the evaluation, the wearing feeling was evaluated. Specifically, with respect to stress SR1(15)The above evaluation and stress SR2(15)Among the following evaluations of (a), a low evaluation was taken as an evaluation of the wearing sensation.
Optimally: SR2(15)Is 25 to 50cN
Good: SR2(15)Is 10 or more and less than 25cN, or more than 50cN and less than 100cN
Poor: SR2(15)Less than 10cN, or greater than 100cN
(phenomenon of white background exposure)
The double-sided knitted fabric was elongated by 30% in the longitudinal and lateral directions, and the white bottom exposure phenomenon was judged to be optimum by visual observation: the white background was less exposed and little glaring glitter was observed.
Good: a little dazzling glitter was observed due to the white background exposure phenomenon.
Poor: a strong glare was observed due to the white background exposure phenomenon.
[ example 2]
A double-sided knitted fabric was produced in the same manner as in example 1, except that a 22dtex polyurethane yarn (2 nd polyurethane yarn, heat distortion starting temperature 178 ℃) was used as the 2 nd knitting yarn, and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn was disposed on the inner side of the knitted fabric. The double-sided knitted fabric had a finished density of 134 courses/inch and 57 wales/inch, a thickness of 440 μm, and a mass W per unit area of 135g/m2. In the double-sided knitted fabric as a whole, the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn was 2.2. The results of evaluation of the obtained double-sided knitted fabric are shown in table 2.
[ example 3]
A double-sided knitted fabric was produced in the same manner as in example 1, except that the composite yarn obtained in example 1 was defined as the 1 st knitting yarn, and the 22dtex polyurethane yarn (the 2 nd polyurethane yarn, heat distortion starting temperature 178 ℃) was defined as the 2 nd knitting yarn, so that the 2 nd polyurethane yarn was disposed on the inner side of the knitted fabric. The double-sided knitted fabric had a finished density of 138 courses/inch, 57 wales/inch, a thickness of 410 μm, and a mass W per unit area of 179g/m2. In the double-sided knitted fabric as a whole, the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn was 1.1. The results of evaluation of the obtained double-sided knitted fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 1
The 1 st knitting yarn comprising the composite yarn obtained in example 1 and a nylon filament of 22dtex/7f and a nylon filament of 56dtex/48f were used as the knitting yarns. The 1 st knitting yarn was simultaneously fed from the same yarn feeding frame as that of the 56dtex/48f nylon filament yarn to a double circular knitting machine (diameter 271.17cm, gauge 40) manufactured by Fuyuanjing Mill, K.K.The needles on both sides of the disc/cylinder were knitted by plating knitting, and a double-sided knitted fabric was produced by interlock knitting so that 56dtex/48f nylon filaments were arranged on the inner side of the knitted fabric. The 22dtex/7f nylon filaments were interwoven in an alternating arrangement one by one with the composite yarn obtained in example 1. The double-sided knitted fabric had a finished density of 102 courses/inch, 56 wales/inch, a thickness of 570 μm, and a mass W per unit area of 250g/m2. The results of evaluation of the obtained double-sided knitted fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 2
A44 dtex polyurethane yarn and a 33dtex/34f nylon yarn were used as knitting yarns. A 44dtex polyurethane yarn and a 33dtex/34f nylon filament were fed from the same yarn feeding frame to needles on both sides of a disc/cylinder at the same time by a double circular knitting machine (diameter 303.07cm, gauge 40) manufactured by fujiro co, and knitted by plating knitting, and a double knit fabric was manufactured in a interlock structure such that the polyurethane yarn was disposed on the inner side of the knitted fabric. The double-sided knitted fabric had a finished density of 112 courses/inch, 77 wales/inch, a thickness of 595 μm and a mass W per unit area of 254g/m2. The results of evaluation of the obtained double-sided knitted fabric are shown in table 2.
Comparative example 3
In the same manner as in comparative example 2 except that 22dtex/20f nylon filaments were used instead of 33dtex/34f nylon filaments, the yarns were fed from the same yarn feeding frame to the needles on both sides of the disc/cylinder at the same time, and knitted by plating, and a double-sided knitted fabric was produced in a interlock structure such that the polyurethane yarn was arranged on the inner side of the knitted fabric. The double-sided knitted fabric had a finished density of 120 courses/inch, 63 wales/inch, a thickness of 510 μm, and a mass W per unit area of 183g/m2. The evaluation results of the obtained double-sided knitted fabric are shown in table 2.
[ Table 2]
Industrial applicability
The double-sided knitted fabric of the present invention is a double-sided knitted fabric which is less likely to cause a white-bottom exposure phenomenon, has a stretching force equal to or greater than that of a conventional double-sided knitted fabric, and can reduce the mass and thickness per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric. Therefore, it is suitable for use as a fabric for clothing having excellent wearability and durability.
Claims (9)
1. A double-sided knitted fabric produced by plating knitting a 1 st knitting yarn and a 2 nd knitting yarn,
the 1 st knitting yarn comprises a composite yarn, the composite yarn comprises a 1 st polyurethane yarn and a non-elastic yarn except the 1 st polyurethane yarn, the fineness of the non-elastic yarn is 8-56 dtex,
the 2 nd knitting yarn comprises a 2 nd polyurethane yarn,
the mass ratio of the non-elastic yarn to the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn in the whole double-sided knitted fabric is 0.75-4.
2. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the fineness of the composite yarn is 19 to 112 dtex.
3. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fineness of the 1 st polyurethane yarn is 11 to 56 dtex.
4. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the 1 st polyurethane yarn and the 2 nd polyurethane yarn have a heat distortion starting temperature of 150 to 190 ℃.
5. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1, which has a power value P1(30)70 to 180cN, the power value P1(30)Obtained according to the following method: the double-sided knitted fabric was stretched to an elongation of 80% at a stretching speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min in the weft direction, and then returned to the original state at a speed of 300. + -.20 mm/min, and this treatment was carried out 3 times, and the elongation at the time of the 3 rd time of the treatment was 30% of the elongationStress ST1(30)Stress SR1 at the time when shrinkage recovered to 30% elongation in the 3 rd treatment(30)Is divided by 2 to obtain the power value P1(30)。
6. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 5, wherein the power value P1 is set(30)The value obtained by dividing the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is 0.55-1.1 cN.m2/g。
7. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the double-sided knitted fabric is stretched at a stretching speed of 300 ± 20 mm/min to an elongation of 80% in the weft direction, then returned to the original state at a speed of 300 ± 20 mm/min, and subjected to the treatment 3 times, and the stress SR1 at the time when the shrinkage is returned to an elongation of 15% in the treatment 3 times is obtained(15)Is 20 to 100 cN.
8. The double-sided knitted fabric of claim 7, wherein the stress SR1 is adjusted(15)The value obtained by dividing the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is 0.07-1 cN.m2/g。
9. The double-sided knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the mass per unit area of the double-sided knitted fabric is 100 to 260g/m2。
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PCT/JP2018/028007 WO2019044293A1 (en) | 2017-09-01 | 2018-07-26 | Double knit |
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