CN110629363A - 一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料及其制备方法 - Google Patents

一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料及其制备方法 Download PDF

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CN110629363A
CN110629363A CN201910792684.6A CN201910792684A CN110629363A CN 110629363 A CN110629363 A CN 110629363A CN 201910792684 A CN201910792684 A CN 201910792684A CN 110629363 A CN110629363 A CN 110629363A
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fabric
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knitted fabric
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钟国能
王健刚
林浩
司冠锋
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Ningbo Daqian Textile Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02—Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04—Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/32—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic
    • D02G3/328—Elastic yarns or threads ; Production of plied or cored yarns, one of which is elastic containing elastane
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/40—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/47—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the structure of the yarns or threads multicomponent, e.g. blended yarns or threads
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D15/00—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used
    • D03D15/50—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads
    • D03D15/56—Woven fabrics characterised by the material, structure or properties of the fibres, filaments, yarns, threads or other warp or weft elements used characterised by the properties of the yarns or threads elastic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D03—WEAVING
    • D03D—WOVEN FABRICS; METHODS OF WEAVING; LOOMS
    • D03D21/00—Lappet- or swivel-woven fabrics
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B9/00—Solvent-treatment of textile materials
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    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
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    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/445—Use of auxiliary substances before, during or after dyeing or printing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
    • D06P1/44—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using insoluble pigments or auxiliary substances, e.g. binders
    • D06P1/653—Nitrogen-free carboxylic acids or their salts
    • D06P1/6533—Aliphatic, araliphatic or cycloaliphatic
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    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
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    • D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]

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Abstract

本发明涉及一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料及其制备方法，该针织面料由经纱和纬纱交织的双面结构织物经染色后整理制成，双面结构一面为交错波纹立体结构，另一面为平整光滑的线性直条结构；经纱为PTT弹性记忆长丝，纬纱为PTT/PET复合混纺纱。本发明记忆型高档弹性针织面料，经纱选用PTT弹性记忆长丝，纬纱选用PTT/PET复合混纺成具有特殊弹性的双组分纤维材料，由于这两种聚酯纤维的收缩比不同，该纤维可以产生永久的立体卷曲，从而使纤维自身具有优良的弹性；利用设定温度的湿处理使织物适度收缩、降低织物内部应力，然后通过制定合适的预热定型和选用适当的染色过程，避免了PTT弹性记忆长丝在经受高温的时候，因面料收缩差异而导致染色不均的问题。

Description

一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料及其制备方法
技术领域
本发明涉及面料领域，尤其涉及一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料及其制备方法。
背景技术
随着经济的不断发展以及生活水平的逐渐提高，以及针织服装向高档化和多功能化方向的发展，人们对服装的要求也相应提高，记忆型高档弹性针织面料具有柔软滑爽、光滑亮丽、吸湿导湿、抗绉免烫、易于打理，受到人们的欢迎。但由于现有记忆面料在生产工艺方法上有一些欠缺，生产出的记忆面料存在手感板硬，舒适性不够的问题。
PTT纤维是一种新型的聚酯类纺织纤维材料，具有良好的弹性、柔软性及染色性能等，是织造记忆型高档弹性针织面料的主要材料。但PTT纤维受热会发生收缩，这种收缩的大小会影响到织物的结构及产品的物理机械性能，相对于其短纤维混纺织物，PTT长丝在复合织物中收缩较大。通常，为了保证织物的结构、尺寸、面料风格和优良的弹性，需要对织物进行热处理定型加工。因此，如何通过合理的织造、热处理、染色工艺织造PTT纤维记忆型高档弹性针织面料是本领域技术人员需要解决的问题。
发明内容
为了解决现有记忆面料手感板硬、舒适性不够的问题，本发明提供一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料及其制备方法。
为了实现上述的目的，本发明采用如下技术方案：
本发明第一个方面是提供了一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料，其由经纱和纬纱交织的双面结构织物经染色后整理制成，其特征在于，所述双面结构一面为交错波纹立体结构，另一面为平整光滑的线性直条结构；所述经纱为PTT弹性记忆长丝，所述纬纱为PTT/PET复合混纺纱；按质量百分比计，所述双面结构织物中所述PTT弹性记忆长丝用量为50-60％，所述PTT/PET复合混纺纱的用量为 40-50％。
进一步地，按质量百分比计，所述双面结构织物中所述PTT弹性记忆长丝用量为55％，所述PTT/PET复合混纺纱的用量为45％。
本发明第二个方面是提供一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备方法，包括步骤：
(1)面料织造：采用喷水织机或喷气织机织造一面为交错波纹立体结构、另一面为平整光滑的线性直条的双面结构织物；
(2)湿热处理：将所述双面结构织物浸入含渗透剂的95℃水浴中，进行湿处理30min；
(3)预热定型：采用轧水处理湿热预定型，工艺为150℃、车速30m/min、超喂1％、纬向拉伸0-6％；
(4)染色：将预热定型后的面料，采用分散染料，分段控温染色，染色后还原清洗；
(5)热定型：采用针板热定型机热定型，工艺为150-170℃、车速35m/min、超喂1％、纬向或纬向拉伸2-8％。
进一步地，步骤(2)中所述渗透剂为渗透剂SP-2，在水浴中含量为0.5-1g/L。
进一步地，步骤(2)中所述水浴还包括2-3g/L的氢氧化钠、3g/L的双氧水和1-1.5g/L的双氧水稳定剂。
进一步地，步骤(4)中所述分散染料包括：染料2-3％、匀染剂2-3g/L、螯合分散剂1.5-3g/L、醋酸钠3-5g/L和HAc(pH 4.5-5)。
进一步地，步骤(4)中所述分段控温工艺为：从常温按0.65℃/min升温至 85℃，保温5min，再按0.85℃/min继续升温至120℃，保温40-50分钟，按0.85 ℃/min降温至70℃。
进一步地，步骤(4)中所述还原清洗的清洗液包括：2.5g/L的Na2CO3和 2.5g/L的保险粉。
与现有技术相比，本发明具有以下优点：
本发明的记忆型高档弹性针织面料，经纱选用PTT弹性记忆长丝，纬纱选用PTT/PET复合混纺成具有特殊弹性的双组分纤维材料，由于这两种聚酯纤维的收缩比不同，该纤维可以产生永久的立体卷曲，从而使纤维自身具有优良的弹性；利用设定温度的湿处理使织物适度收缩、降低织物内部应力，然后通过制定合适的预热定型和选用适当的染色过程，避免了PTT弹性记忆长丝在经受高温的时候，因面料收缩差异而导致染色不均的问题。
具体实施方式
下面通过具体实施例对本发明进行详细和具体的介绍，以使更好的理解本发明，但是下述实施例并不限制本发明范围。
实施例1
一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备，包括如下步骤：
首先，面料织造，采用喷水织机或喷气织机织造一面为交错波纹立体结构、另一面为平整光滑的线性直条的双面结构记忆型高档弹性针织面料；所述经纱为 PTT弹性记忆长丝，所述纬纱为PTT/PET复合混纺纱；按质量百分比计，所述双面结构织物中所述PTT弹性记忆长丝用量为50％，所述PTT/PET复合混纺纱的用量为50％。
其次，湿热处理，将所述记忆型高档弹性针织面料浸入含有渗透剂SP-2的 95℃水浴中，进行湿处理30min；所述渗透剂SP-2在水浴中含量为0.5-1g/L，所述水浴还包括2-3g/L的氢氧化钠、3g/L的双氧水和1-1.5g/L的双氧水稳定剂。
再次，预热定型，采用轧水处理湿热预定型，工艺为150℃、车速30m/min、超喂1％、纬向拉伸2％。
再次，染色，将预热定型后的面料放入包括染料2％、匀染剂2g/L、螯合分散剂1.5g/L、醋酸钠3g/L和HAc(pH 4.5-5)的分散染料中，分段控温染色，染色后还原清洗；
其中，所述分段控温工艺为：从常温按0.65℃/min升温至85℃，保温5min，再按0.85℃/min继续升温至120℃，保温40分钟，按0.85℃/min降温至70℃；所述还原清洗的清洗液包括：2.5g/L的Na2CO3和2.5g/L的保险粉。
最后，热定型，采用针板热定型机热定型，工艺为150℃、车速35m/min、超喂1％、纬向或纬向拉伸2％。
实施例2
一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备，包括如下步骤：
首先，面料织造，采用喷水织机或喷气织机织造一面为交错波纹立体结构、另一面为平整光滑的线性直条的双面结构记忆型高档弹性针织面料；所述经纱为 PTT弹性记忆长丝，所述纬纱为PTT/PET复合混纺纱；按质量百分比计，所述双面结构织物中所述PTT弹性记忆长丝用量为55％，所述PTT/PET复合混纺纱的用量为45％。
其次，湿热处理，将所述记忆型高档弹性针织面料浸入含有渗透剂SP-2的 95℃水浴中，进行湿处理30min；所述渗透剂SP-2在水浴中含量为0.5-1g/L，所述水浴还包括2-3g/L的氢氧化钠、3g/L的双氧水和1-1.5g/L的双氧水稳定剂。
再次，预热定型，采用轧水处理湿热预定型，工艺为150℃、车速30m/min、超喂1％、纬向拉伸4％。
再次，染色，将预热定型后的面料放入包括染料2％、匀染剂2g/L、螯合分散剂2g/L、醋酸钠4g/L和HAc(pH 4.5-5)的分散染料中，分段控温染色，染色后还原清洗；
其中，所述分段控温工艺为：从常温按0.65℃/min升温至85℃，保温5min，再按0.85℃/min继续升温至120℃，保温45分钟，按0.85℃/min降温至70℃；中所述还原清洗的清洗液包括：2.5g/L的Na2CO3和2.5g/L的保险粉。
最后，热定型，采用针板热定型机热定型，工艺为160℃、车速35m/min、超喂1％、纬向或纬向拉伸4％。
实施例3
一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备，包括如下步骤：
首先，面料织造，采用喷水织机或喷气织机织造一面为交错波纹立体结构、另一面为平整光滑的线性直条的双面结构记忆型高档弹性针织面料；所述经纱为 PTT弹性记忆长丝，所述纬纱为PTT/PET复合混纺纱；按质量百分比计，所述双面结构织物中所述PTT弹性记忆长丝用量为60％，所述PTT/PET复合混纺纱的用量为40％。
其次，湿热处理，将所述记忆型高档弹性针织面料浸入含有渗透剂SP-2的 95℃水浴中，进行湿处理30min；所述渗透剂SP-2在水浴中含量为1g/L，所述水浴还包括2g/L的氢氧化钠、3g/L的双氧水和1g/L的双氧水稳定剂。
再次，预热定型，采用轧水处理湿热预定型，工艺为150℃、车速30m/min、超喂1％、纬向拉伸6％。
再次，染色，将预热定型后的面料放入包括染料3％、匀染剂3g/L、螯合分散剂3g/L、醋酸钠5g/L和HAc(pH 4.5-5)的分散染料中，分段控温染色，染色后还原清洗；
其中，所述分段控温工艺为：从常温按0.65℃/min升温至85℃，保温5min，再按0.85℃/min继续升温至120℃，保温50分钟，按0.85℃/min降温至70℃；中所述还原清洗的清洗液包括：2.5g/L的Na2CO3和2.5g/L的保险粉。
最后，热定型，采用针板热定型机热定型，工艺为170℃、车速35m/min、超喂1％、纬向或纬向拉伸8％。
以上所述仅为本发明较佳的实施例，并非因此限制本发明的实施方式及保护范围，对于本领域技术人员而言，应当能够意识到凡运用本发明说明书内容所作出的等同替换和显而易见的变化所得到的方案，均应当包含在本发明的保护范围内。

Claims (8)

1.一种记忆型高档弹性针织面料，其由经纱和纬纱交织的双面结构织物经染色后整理制成，其特征在于，所述双面结构一面为交错波纹立体结构，另一面为平整光滑的线性直条结构；所述经纱为PTT弹性记忆长丝，所述纬纱为PTT/PET复合混纺纱；按质量百分比计，所述双面结构织物中所述PTT弹性记忆长丝用量为50-60％，所述PTT/PET复合混纺纱的用量为40-50％。
2.根据权利要求1所述的记忆型高档弹性针织面料，其特征在于，按质量百分比计，所述双面结构织物中所述PTT弹性记忆长丝用量为55％，所述PTT/PET复合混纺纱的用量为45％。
3.一种如权利要求1或2所述记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备方法，其特征在于，包括如下步骤：
(1)面料织造：采用喷水织机或喷气织机织造一面为交错波纹立体结构、另一面为平整光滑的线性直条的双面结构织物；
(2)湿热处理：将所述双面结构织物浸入含渗透剂的95℃水浴中，进行湿处理30min；
(3)预热定型：采用轧水处理湿热预定型，工艺为150℃、车速30m/min、超喂1％、纬向拉伸0-6％；
(4)染色：将预热定型后的面料，采用分散染料，分段控温染色，染色后还原清洗；
(5)热定型：采用针板热定型机热定型，工艺为150-170℃、车速35m/min、超喂1％、纬向或纬向拉伸2-8％。
4.根据权利要求3所述的记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤(2)中所述渗透剂为渗透剂SP-2，在水浴中含量为1g/L。
5.根据权利要求3所述的记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤(2)中所述水浴还包括2g/L的氢氧化钠、3g/L的双氧水和1g/L的双氧水稳定剂。
6.根据权利要求3所述的记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤(4)中所述分散染料包括：染料2-3％、匀染剂2-3g/L、螯合分散剂1.5-3g/L、醋酸钠3-5g/L和HAc(pH 4.5-5)。
7.根据权利要求3所述的记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤(4)中所述分段控温工艺为：从常温按0.65℃/min升温至85℃，保温5min，再按0.85℃/min继续升温至120℃，保温40-50分钟，按0.85℃/min降温至70℃。
8.根据权利要求3所述的记忆型高档弹性针织面料的制备方法，其特征在于，步骤(4)中所述还原清洗的清洗液包括：2.5g/L的Na2CO3和2.5g/L的保险粉。
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