CN108625169A - 全真丝色织经编制备工艺 - Google Patents
全真丝色织经编制备工艺 Download PDFInfo
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- CN108625169A CN108625169A CN201810497252.8A CN201810497252A CN108625169A CN 108625169 A CN108625169 A CN 108625169A CN 201810497252 A CN201810497252 A CN 201810497252A CN 108625169 A CN108625169 A CN 108625169A
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- silk
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- warp knit
- preparation process
- temperature
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种全真丝色织经编制备工艺,属于真丝纺织技术领域,其技术方案要点是包括以下步骤:(1)选纱、(2)预处理、(3)精炼、(4)捻丝、(5)染色、(6)织造、(7)后整理、(8)成品,在预处理时采用油酸聚氧乙烯酯、月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚、硅酸钠以及水对蚕丝浸泡,使丝胶溶胀,有利于精炼剂的渗入而与丝胶充分反应,缩短丝胶的溶解时间,达到了能够减少精炼剂对丝素的损伤的技术效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及真丝纺织技术领域,特别涉及一种全真丝色织经编制备工艺。
背景技术
真丝一般指蚕丝,包括桑蚕丝、柞蚕丝、蓖麻蚕丝、木薯蚕丝等,属于蛋白质纤维,丝素中含有18种对人体有益的氨基酸。蚕丝纤维是唯一得到实际应用的天然长丝纤维,由蚕改粘液凝固而成。蚕丝纤维因蚕的食性不同分成多种,其中有食桑叶形成的桑蚕丝纤维、食柞树叶形成的柞蚕丝纤维以及食木薯叶、马桑叶、蓖麻叶形成的其他野蚕丝纤维;桑蚕丝纤维和柞蚕丝纤维可以把长丝纤维的形态保留到集束形成的长丝纱中,其他的几种野蚕丝纤维只能被改形为短纤维用纺织加工;在用桑蚕丝纤维和柞蚕丝纤维集束形成的长丝纱中,桑蚕丝纤维的长丝纱最重要,占天然长丝纱的大部分。
蚕丝的主要成分是丝胶和丝素,丝胶大约占到蚕丝重量的25%-30%,丝胶包裹在丝素的外层,对丝素起到保护作用,蚕茧缫制的蚕丝中有丝胶和杂质残留,不仅会影响丝织品染色效果,而且会影响丝织品的光泽、手感和质地,因此蚕丝表面残余的丝胶和杂质必须在染色前去除;丝素和丝胶分离的原理是丝素不溶于水,而丝胶具有水溶性;采用酸、碱、皂、高温高压以及酶处理在一定条件下都能达到去除丝胶的目的。
现有技术可参考申请公布号CN106757384A的专利申请文件,其公开了一种弹性膨化蚕丝被的生产方法,包括选茧、煮茧、脱胶、除蛹、套环、丝套、拉丝,还包括以下步骤:A、煮茧前先将茧浸泡在纯净水中,水温为50-70℃,浸泡时间为3-5分钟,浸泡完成后将茧与纯净水放入真空容器内并加入PH值为9-10的碱性膨化剂一起进行蒸煮,蒸煮温度为90-100℃,蒸煮时间为5-10分钟。B、拉丝完成后将蚕丝浸泡在纯净水中,水温为70-80℃,浸泡时间为3-5分钟,然后再将蚕丝浸泡在放有酸性膨化剂的纯净水中,水温为20-30℃,浸泡时间为2-4分钟,最后将蚕丝烘干整理即得。
碱精炼蚕丝的原理是碱剂作用于丝胶蛋白的肽键,使其水解,该反应是非专一性的,主要作用的氨基酸是半胱氨酸、丝氨酸、苏氨酸和精氨酸;在碱剂脱胶后,蚕丝的平均纤度会下降大约7dtex,断裂强度、断裂伸长率和初始模量均会有所下降,由于蚕丝的纤度明显降低,会使丝织物的柔软性、白度、光泽度和手感都变差。
其他方法中酸精炼法的优势是易于控制脱胶率,可以进行部分脱胶加工,但是酸精炼不能去除蚕丝上的油脂等杂质,对加工设备要求高,且有机酸会被丝素纤维吸附,极难除尽,影响蚕丝纤维的利用;皂精炼法的优势是可以使蚕丝上的丝胶解离,防止丝胶在蚕丝上再附着的乳化、分散,能提高丝织物的蓬松度、白度和光泽度,但是耗皂量大,生产成本高,脱胶时间长,不适用于均匀脱胶;高温高压法无化学试剂的加入,可以直接由精炼液回收丝胶再利用,但是该法需要高温高压设备,增加生产成本;酶精炼法对环境污染小,脱胶对蚕丝限位的损伤小,但是酶作用的条件比较复杂,产酶菌的培养花费大,生产成本高;各种方法均有利弊,因此,如何能在蚕丝精炼加工中尽可能脱去丝胶,又尽可能降低脱胶过程中对丝素纤维的损伤,是一个需要解决的问题。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其在精炼的过程中,采用皂碱精炼法对蚕丝进行脱胶处理,能够降低单纯的碱精炼法对蚕丝丝素的损伤,提高脱胶效率,减少浸泡时间,降低精炼剂对丝素的损伤。
本发明的上述技术目的是通过以下技术方案得以实现的:
一种全真丝色织经编制备工艺,包括以下步骤:
(1)选纱:挑选完整、形态饱满且为白色的蚕茧,然后将挑选后的蚕茧缫丝;
(2)预处理:将蚕丝浸入至预处理液中,浴比为1:30,在60-70℃的温度下浸泡30-40min;
(3)精炼:然后将蚕丝放入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:60,保持PH为9-10.5,在96-98℃的温度下浸泡20-25min,然后将蚕丝用去离子水冲洗3-5min后,再将蚕丝浸入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:40,保持PH为9-10.5,在96-98℃的温度下浸泡10-15min后用去离子水冲洗干净,在35-40℃的温度下烘干60-90min得到脱胶蚕丝;
(4)捻丝:将脱胶后的蚕丝经过络丝、合丝以及捻丝得到丝线;
(5)染色:将丝线浸入染料中染色45min,然后再通过纯碱固色30min,再经过水洗使颜料充分固化在丝线上;
(6)织造:将丝线经过整经、经编织造得到全真丝面料;
(7)后整理:将全真丝面料浸入抗菌剂中;
(8)成品:在35-40℃的温度下烘干60-90min得到全真丝面料成品。
通过采用上述方案,在对蚕丝进行精炼前,先将蚕丝进行预处理,在60-70℃,使丝胶吸湿溶胀,有利于精炼剂的渗入而与丝胶充分反应,缩短丝胶的溶解时间;精炼时在96-98℃的温度下,有利于丝胶的溶解,温度过高,会损伤丝素,温度过低,丝胶溶解效果不好,第一次浸泡能够去除蚕丝上的大部分丝胶,通过用去离子水去蚕丝进行冲洗,能够去除附着在蚕丝表面的水解产物,有利于第二次浸泡时精炼剂对剩余丝胶充分去除,减少蚕丝在精炼剂中的浸泡时间,能够减轻精炼剂对丝素的损伤,使得脱胶效果更好;由于蚕丝经过精炼脱胶后,其质量会减少约25%,纤维变细,丝之间的空隙增大,织物变薄、***,因此需要将单丝进行合丝、捻丝得到丝线;再将丝线浸入染料中染色,染色后的丝线的织造为色织过程,经编形成的线圈沿垂直方向或经纱方向排列,由相邻的纱线相互套接而成,具有纵尺寸稳定性好、织物挺括、脱散性小、不会卷边、透气性好等优点;由于蚕丝是蛋白纤维,在存放的过程中易受细菌污染而腐蚀发臭,因此在其中加入抗菌剂进行抗菌处理,然后经过低温烘干可以得到全真丝面料。
较佳的,以重量份数计,所述步骤(2)中的预处理剂包括油酸聚氧乙烯酯3-5份、月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚5-7份、硅酸钠10-15份以及水30-40份。
通过采用上述方案,油酸聚氧乙烯酯是一种非离子表面活性剂,具有低泡和生物降解性好的特点,用于纺织柔软剂、润滑剂;月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚具有优良的洗涤、乳化、分散、润湿、增溶等功能,且起泡力强,易漂洗,去污力优异,是表面活性剂中对皮肤刺激性最低的品种之一,它能与油酸聚氧乙烯酯表面活性剂复配,改善产品的性能,可以作为乳化剂、柔软剂、润湿剂、发泡剂等;硅酸钠能够增加预处理剂的碱度,使蚕丝处于弱碱性条件下,有利于丝胶的溶胀;通过预处理剂能够去除蚕丝中的油脂等杂质,减弱丝胶与丝素的结合力,能够减少蚕丝在精炼剂中浸泡的时间,减少精炼剂对丝素的损伤。
较佳的,以重量份数计,所述步骤(3)中的精炼剂包括油酸钠30-40份、月桂酸单甘油酯10-20份、硅酸钠2-4份、碳酸钠6-8份、三聚磷酸钠2-3份、丝素保护剂1-3份、低亚硫酸钠2-3份以及水70-90份。
通过采用上述方案,油酸钠为憎水基和亲水基两部分构成的化合物,有优良的乳化力、渗透力和去污力,在水中能发生水解作用,生成游离碱和脂肪酸,游离碱能够促进丝胶水解,提高丝胶的溶解度,达到脱胶的目的,同时油酸钠又具有良好的润湿、乳化和净洗性能,用作阴离子型表面活性剂和织物防水剂;月桂酸单甘油酯由月桂酸和甘油直接酯化合成,它既是优良的乳化剂,又是安全高效广谱的抗菌剂,在中性或微碱性条件下,仍有较好的抗菌效果;硅酸钠能够增加精炼剂的碱度,同时其水解产生的硅酸具有保护胶体的能力,防止脱落的丝胶及其水解产物等杂质重新粘附到织物上,并能吸附铜、铁离子防止产生锈斑,有利于提高织物的白度;碳酸钠能够补充精炼剂中的碱度,并且具有软化水质的作用;三聚磷酸钠用作洗涤品助剂,用于油酸钠增效剂和防止油酸钠的油脂析出和起霜,对润滑油和脂肪有强烈的乳化作用,可用于调节缓冲精炼剂的PH值,此外三聚磷酸钠作为一种螯合剂,能够提高硅酸钠的分散性;丝素保护剂能够降低精炼剂中碱性物质对丝素的损伤,有利于保持丝素的力学性能;低亚硫酸钠作为脱氧剂和漂白剂,可防止蚕丝纤维局部氧化而影响纤维强度,在碱性溶液中可与还原分解织物上的着色染料及天然色素起到漂白的作用。
较佳的,所述步骤(5)中染料包括酸性染料以及活性染料。
通过采用上述方案,酸性染料是指在染料分子中含有酸性基团,又称阴离子染料,能与蛋白质纤维分子中的氨基以离子键相结合,对蚕丝的染色效果最好;活性染料的化学结构同酸性染料相似,染色性能较好,色泽鲜艳,能与纤维发生化学结合,色牢度好,采用酸性染料与活性染料的方式对丝线进行染色能够增加染料的色牢度。
较佳的,所述步骤(6)中整经速度为250-350m/min,整经张力为5-7cN,温度为16-20℃,相对湿度为65-70%。
通过采用上述方案,整经是将一定根数的经纱按规定的长度和宽度平行卷绕在经轴或织轴上的工艺过程,经过整经的经纱供浆纱和穿经之用,整经要求各根经纱张力相等,在经轴或织轴上分布均匀,整经速度为250-350m/min,整经张力为5-7cN,温度为16-20℃,相对湿度为65-70%,适用于蚕丝的整经,能够减少对丝线的损伤。
较佳的,所述步骤(7)中抗菌剂包括单宁、甲壳素、纳米二氧化钛;所述单宁、甲壳素以及纳米二氧化钛的质量比分别是3:1:1,将甲壳素、纳米二氧化钛按照比例加入到单宁中,以100-140r/min的速度搅拌20-30min。
通过采用上述方案,蚕丝对单宁具有较强的吸附性能,因此将甲壳素以及纳米二氧化钛与单宁混合,有利于蚕丝上抗菌剂的附着;单宁可以用作蚕丝的增重处理,能够增加丝织物的悬垂性,赋予丝织物柔软而蓬松的手感,改善其抗皱性、耐紫外线性、耐洗性和强度,由于其是植物增重,相比矿物增重更加温和,此外单宁对多种细菌、真菌和微生物有显著的抑制效果,在相同的抑制浓度下,不会影响人体细胞的生长发育,单宁又有独特的抗氧化性,能有效抵御生物氧化作用,它还有清除活性氧的功能;甲壳素是一种天然抗菌剂,易降解,安全无毒,但是其抗菌作用有限,因此需要和其他抗菌剂共同使用;纳米二氧化钛是一种无机抗菌剂,具有抗菌、自洁净、抗老化性能,防止感染、除臭除味,能够有效杀灭等等有害细菌,纳米二氧化钛既能吸收紫外线,又能反射、散射紫外线,可以减少丝织物的老化。
较佳的,所述纳米二氧化钛的粒径为20-30nm。
通过采用上述方案,纳米二氧化钛的粒径为20-30nm,有利于其与单宁的充分混合。
较佳的,所述蚕丝的纤度为24/26D。
通过采用上述方案,纤度是表示纤维粗细的单位,数值越大,表示蚕丝越粗,蚕丝的纤度为24/26D,使其能够保持一定的强度的同时又能保持良好的弹性。
综上所述,本发明具有以下有益效果:
1.在对蚕丝进行精炼前,先将蚕丝进行预处理,能够去除蚕丝中的油脂等杂质,减弱丝胶与丝素的结合力,能够减少蚕丝在精炼剂中浸泡的时间,使丝胶吸湿溶胀,有利于精炼剂的渗入而与丝胶充分反应,缩短丝胶的溶解时间,减少精炼剂对丝素的损伤;精炼时第一次浸泡能够去除蚕丝上的大部分丝胶,通过用去离子水去蚕丝进行冲洗,能够去除附着在蚕丝表面的水解产物,有利于第二次浸泡时精炼剂对剩余丝胶充分去除,减少蚕丝在精炼剂中的浸泡时间,能够减轻精炼剂对丝素的损伤,使得脱胶效果更好;
2.油酸聚氧乙烯酯具有低泡和生物降解性好的特点,用于纺织柔软剂、润滑剂;月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚具有优良的洗涤、乳化、分散、润湿、增溶等功能,且起泡力强,易漂洗,去污力优异,与油酸聚氧乙烯酯表面活性剂复配,改善产品的性能;硅酸钠能够增加预处理剂的碱度,使蚕丝处于弱碱性条件下,有利于丝胶的溶胀;
3.油酸钠有优良的乳化力、渗透力和去污力,在水中能发生水解作用,生成游离碱和脂肪酸,游离碱能够促进丝胶水解,提高丝胶的溶解度,达到脱胶的目的,同时油酸钠又具有良好的润湿、乳化和净洗性能,用作阴离子型表面活性剂和织物防水剂;月桂酸单甘油酯既是优良的乳化剂,又是安全高效广谱的抗菌剂,在中性或微碱性条件下,仍有较好的抗菌效果;硅酸钠能够增加精炼剂的碱度,同时其水解产生的硅酸具有保护胶体的能力,防止脱落的丝胶及其水解产物等杂质重新粘附到织物上,并能吸附铜、铁离子防止产生锈斑,有利于提高织物的白度;碳酸钠能够补充精炼剂中的碱度,并且具有软化水质的作用;三聚磷酸钠用于油酸钠增效剂和防止油酸钠的油脂析出和起霜,对润滑油和脂肪有强烈的乳化作用,可用于调节缓冲精炼剂的PH值,此外三聚磷酸钠作为一种螯合剂,能够提高硅酸钠的分散性;丝素保护剂能够降低精炼剂中碱性物质对丝素的损伤,有利于保持丝素的力学性能;低亚硫酸钠作为脱氧剂和漂白剂,可防止蚕丝纤维局部氧化而影响纤维强度,在碱性溶液中可与还原分解织物上的着色染料及天然色素起到漂白的作用;
4.蚕丝对单宁具有较强的吸附性能,因此将甲壳素以及纳米二氧化钛与单宁混合,有利于蚕丝上抗菌剂的附着;单宁可以用作蚕丝的增重处理,能够增加丝织物的悬垂性,赋予丝织物柔软而蓬松的手感,改善其抗皱性、耐紫外线性、耐洗性和强度,单宁对多种细菌、真菌和微生物有显著的抑制效果,其独特的抗氧化性,能有效抵御生物氧化作用,它还有清除活性氧的功能;甲壳素是一种天然抗菌剂,易降解,安全无毒;纳米二氧化钛是一种无机抗菌剂,具有抗菌、自洁净、抗老化性能,防止感染、除臭除味,能够有效杀灭等等有害细菌,纳米二氧化钛既能吸收紫外线,又能反射、散射紫外线,可以减少丝织物的老化。
具体实施方式
以下对本发明作进一步详细说明。
一、实施例1-3
实施例1:一种全真丝色织经编采用如下工艺制备而得:
(1)选纱:挑选完整、形态饱满且为白色的蚕茧,然后将挑选后的蚕茧缫丝,蚕丝的纤度为24/26D;
(2)预处理:将蚕丝浸入至预处理液中,浴比为1:30,在65℃的温度下浸泡35min;预处理剂包括油酸聚氧乙烯酯4kg、月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚6kg、硅酸钠13kg以及水35kg;
(3)精炼:然后将蚕丝放入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:60,保持PH为9-10.5,在97℃的温度下浸泡23min,然后将蚕丝用去离子水冲洗4min后,再将蚕丝浸入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:40,保持PH为9-10.5,在97℃的温度下浸泡13min后用去离子水冲洗干净,在38℃的温度下烘干75min得到脱胶蚕丝;精炼剂包括油酸钠35kg、月桂酸单甘油酯15kg、硅酸钠3kg、碳酸钠7kg、三聚磷酸钠2.5kg、丝素保护剂2kg、低亚硫酸钠2.5kg以及水80kg;
(4)捻丝:将脱胶后的蚕丝经过络丝、合丝以及捻丝得到丝线;
(5)染色:将丝线浸入染料中染色45min,然后再通过纯碱固色30min,再经过水洗使颜料充分固化在丝线上;
(6)织造:将丝线经过整经、经编织造得到全真丝面料;其中整经速度为300m/min,整经张力为6cN,温度为18℃,相对湿度为68%;
(7)后整理:将全真丝面料浸入抗菌剂中;抗菌剂包括单宁、甲壳素、纳米二氧化钛,将10kg甲壳素、10kg粒径为20-30nm的纳米二氧化钛加入30kg单宁中,以120r/min的速度搅拌25min;
(8)成品:在38℃的温度下烘干75min得到全真丝面料成品。
实施例2:一种全真丝色织经编采用如下工艺制备而得:
(1)选纱:挑选完整、形态饱满且为白色的蚕茧,然后将挑选后的蚕茧缫丝,蚕丝的纤度为24/26D;
(2)预处理:将蚕丝浸入至预处理液中,浴比为1:30,在60℃的温度下浸泡40min;预处理剂包括油酸聚氧乙烯酯3kg、月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚5kg、硅酸钠10kg以及水30kg;
(3)精炼:然后将蚕丝放入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:60,保持PH为9-10.5,在96℃的温度下浸泡25min,然后将蚕丝用去离子水冲洗3min后,再将蚕丝浸入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:40,保持PH为9-10.5,在96℃的温度下浸泡15min后用去离子水冲洗干净,在35℃的温度下烘干90min得到脱胶蚕丝;精炼剂包括油酸钠30kg、月桂酸单甘油酯10kg、硅酸钠2kg、碳酸钠6kg、三聚磷酸钠2kg、丝素保护剂1kg、低亚硫酸钠2kg以及水70kg;
(4)捻丝:将脱胶后的蚕丝经过络丝、合丝以及捻丝得到丝线;
(5)染色:将丝线浸入染料中染色45min,然后再通过纯碱固色30min,再经过水洗使颜料充分固化在丝线上;
(6)织造:将丝线经过整经、经编织造得到全真丝面料;其中整经速度为250m/min,整经张力为5cN,温度为16℃,相对湿度为65%;
(7)后整理:将全真丝面料浸入抗菌剂中;抗菌剂包括单宁、甲壳素、纳米二氧化钛,将10kg甲壳素、10kg粒径为20-30nm的纳米二氧化钛加入30kg单宁中,以100r/min的速度搅拌30min;
(8)成品:在35℃的温度下烘干90min得到全真丝面料成品。
实施例3:一种全真丝色织经编采用如下工艺制备而得:
(1)选纱:挑选完整、形态饱满且为白色的蚕茧,然后将挑选后的蚕茧缫丝,蚕丝的纤度为24/26D;
(2)预处理:将蚕丝浸入至预处理液中,浴比为1:30,在70℃的温度下浸泡30min;预处理剂包括油酸聚氧乙烯酯5kg、月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚7kg、硅酸钠15kg以及水40kg;
(3)精炼:然后将蚕丝放入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:60,保持PH为9-10.5,在98℃的温度下浸泡20min,然后将蚕丝用去离子水冲洗5min后,再将蚕丝浸入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:40,保持PH为9-10.5,在98℃的温度下浸泡10min后用去离子水冲洗干净,在40℃的温度下烘干60min得到脱胶蚕丝;精炼剂包括油酸钠40kg、月桂酸单甘油酯20kg、硅酸钠4kg、碳酸钠8kg、三聚磷酸钠3kg、丝素保护剂3kg、低亚硫酸钠3kg以及水90kg;
(4)捻丝:将脱胶后的蚕丝经过络丝、合丝以及捻丝得到丝线;
(5)染色:将丝线浸入染料中染色45min,然后再通过纯碱固色30min,再经过水洗使颜料充分固化在丝线上;
(6)织造:将丝线经过整经、经编织造得到全真丝面料;其中整经速度为350m/min,整经张力为7cN,温度为20℃,相对湿度为70%;
(7)后整理:将全真丝面料浸入抗菌剂中;抗菌剂包括单宁、甲壳素、纳米二氧化钛,将10kg甲壳素、10kg粒径为20-30nm的纳米二氧化钛加入30kg单宁中,以140r/min的速度搅拌20min;
(8)成品:在40℃的温度下烘干60min得到全真丝面料成品。
二、对比例1-3
对比例1:采用申请公布号CN106757384A的专利申请文件,其公开了一种弹性膨化蚕丝被的生产方法,包括选茧、煮茧、脱胶、除蛹、套环、丝套、拉丝,还包括以下步骤:A、煮茧前先将茧浸泡在纯净水中,水温为50-70℃,浸泡时间为3-5分钟,浸泡完成后将茧与纯净水放入真空容器内并加入PH值为9-10的碱性膨化剂一起进行蒸煮,蒸煮温度为90-100℃,蒸煮时间为5-10分钟。B、拉丝完成后将蚕丝浸泡在纯净水中,水温为70-80℃,浸泡时间为3-5分钟,然后再将蚕丝浸泡在放有酸性膨化剂的纯净水中,水温为20-30℃,浸泡时间为2-4分钟,最后将蚕丝烘干整理即得。
对比例2:采用申请公布号CN102660781A的专利申请文件,其公开了一种桑蚕丝筒子染色方法,它包括以下步骤:桑蚕丝绞丝原料的准备、桑蚕丝绞丝预处理、桑蚕丝绞丝浸泡脱胶、桑蚕丝纹丝精炼脱胶、烘干、络筒、染色;在浸泡脱胶时,采用的脱胶助剂由纯碱0.3%-0.5%、六偏磷酸钠I.5%-1.8%、油酸钠0.4%-0.5%和蛋白水解酶30%组成,以上百分比为相对于浸泡液的重量百分比;精炼脱胶时采用以下脱胶助剂:碱性内切蛋白酶量0.2%-0.6%、纯碱0.8%和非离子渗透剂0.8%,以上百分比为相对于精炼液的重量百分比;精炼脱胶后,丝线的脱胶率为23%-25%。
对比例3:采用授权公告号CN102534818B为的中国专利,其公开了一种制丝工艺,该发明所述制丝工艺是通过抽丝-浸泡-清洗-柔顾-凉干的工艺过程完成,具体步骤是先将蚕茧边经解丝脱脂液喷淋解丝,边经抽丝机制成已脱脂丝胶仍粘附丝上的片状蚕丝,然后再将得到的已脱脂丝胶仍粘附丝上的片状蚕丝经洗洁液浸泡、清水清洗和浸泡后,获得已脱脂而粘附丝上丝胶已分离的蚕丝,再用柔顺液浸泡,最后将柔顺后的蚕丝脱干、凉干。
三、将实施例1-3以及对比例1-3制备的丝织物的性能进行测试。
1、生丝胶脱胶程度检验
用苦味酸胭脂红法定性判断实施例1-3以及对比例1-3中不同脱胶方法的脱胶程度,将1g胭脂红溶于10mL、25%氨水中,再加入20mL去离子水,搅拌混合、加热;冷却后加入45mL饱和苦味酸溶液,再加水至100mL,并用盐酸溶液pH值调为8-9,形成苦味酸胭脂红呈色试剂,用该试剂检验脱胶是否完全。其原理为:在弱碱性条件下,苦味酸将丝素染成黄色,而丝素与胭脂红的作用既不灵敏又不牢固,经水洗后立即除去。当丝胶未脱尽时,胭脂红将丝胶染成红色,苦味酸的黄色被掩盖,脱胶后如果丝胶脱尽,经呈色试剂试验样品就染成黄色。
脱胶率(%)=(W0-W1)/W0100%
式中:W0为生丝脱胶前干重;W1为生丝脱胶后干重。
表1实施例1-3以及对比例1-3中生蚕丝的脱胶率的对比表
测试项目 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施3 | 对比例1 | 对比例2 | 对比例3 |
脱胶率(%) | 25.13 | 25.12 | 25.21 | 25.17 | 24.00 | 24.75 |
由以上数据可以看出,本发明对生蚕丝的丝胶脱胶率与传统方法对丝胶的脱胶率相近,说明本发明的方法丝胶有较优的脱胶效果。
2、力学性能检测
将实施例1-3以及对比例1-3制备的丝织物在室温和相对湿度50%的条件下,采用万能材料试验机对丝织物的轴向(与丝纤维排列方向平行)和横向(与丝纤维排列方向垂直)拉伸性能进行测试;夹具距离为20mm;拉伸速率分别为2mm/min(横向)和0.2mm/min(横向),所有试样的拉伸强度、断裂强度取十次试验结果的平均值。
表2实施例1-3以及对比例1-3的丝织物的性能测试表
检测项目 | 实施例1 | 实施例2 | 实施例3 | 对比例1 | 对比例2 | 对比例3 |
拉伸强度,MPa | 31.13 | 31.27 | 31.22 | 20.02 | 22.31 | 19.87 |
拉断伸长率,% | 1.8 | 1.9 | 1.8 | 1.3 | 1.4 | 1.1 |
由以上数据可以看出,本发明制备的丝织物的拉伸强度以及拉断伸长率明显高于传统方法制备的丝织物,说明本发明在对蚕丝精炼脱胶的过程中对丝素纤维的损伤较小。
综上所述,本发明制备的的蚕丝除了脱胶效果比较好之外,在脱胶的过程中对丝素纤维的损伤也比较小,丝织物的力学性能较优;并且由于增加了后整理的工艺,添加的单宁能对蚕丝起到增重的作用,增加蚕丝的悬垂感,改善其抗皱能力;此外,单宁、甲壳素以及纳米二氧化钛均对抗菌的作用,能够降低微生物对丝织物的损坏。
本具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释,其并不是对本发明的限制,本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改,但只要在本发明的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。
Claims (8)
1.一种全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:包括以下步骤:
(1)选纱:挑选完整、形态饱满且为白色的蚕茧,然后将挑选后的蚕茧缫丝;
(2)预处理:将蚕丝浸入预处理液中,浴比为1:30,在60-70℃的温度下浸泡30-40min;
(3)精炼:然后将蚕丝放入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:60,保持PH为9-10.5,在96-98℃的温度下浸泡20-25min,然后将蚕丝用去离子水冲洗3-5min后,再次将蚕丝浸入精炼剂中,脱胶浴比为1:40,保持PH为9-10.5,在96-98℃的温度下浸泡10-15min后用去离子水冲洗干净,在35-40℃的温度下烘干60-90min得到脱胶蚕丝;
(4)捻丝:将脱胶后的蚕丝经过络丝、合丝以及捻丝得到丝线;
(5)染色:将丝线浸入染料中染色45min,然后再通过纯碱固色30min,再经过水洗使颜料充分固化在丝线上;
(6)织造:将丝线经过整经、经编织造得到全真丝面料;
(7)后整理:将全真丝面料浸入抗菌剂中;
(8)成品:在35-40℃的温度下烘干60-90min得到全真丝面料成品。
2.根据权利要求1所述的全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:以重量份数计,所述步骤(2)中的预处理剂包括油酸聚氧乙烯酯3-5份、月桂醇聚氧乙烯醚5-7份、硅酸钠10-15份以及水30-40份。
3.根据权利要求1所述的全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:以重量份数计,所述步骤(3)中的精炼剂包括油酸钠30-40份、月桂酸单甘油酯10-20份、硅酸钠2-4份、碳酸钠6-8份、三聚磷酸钠2-3份、丝素保护剂1-3份、低亚硫酸钠2-3份以及水70-90份。
4.根据权利要求1所述的全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(5)中染料包括酸性染料以及活性染料。
5.根据权利要求1所述的全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(6)中整经速度为250-350m/min,整经张力为5-7cN,温度为16-20℃,相对湿度为65-70%。
6.根据权利要求1所述的全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:所述步骤(7)中抗菌剂包括单宁、甲壳素、纳米二氧化钛;所述单宁、甲壳素以及纳米二氧化钛的质量比分别是3:1:1,将甲壳素、纳米二氧化钛按照比例加入到单宁中,以100-140r/min的速度搅拌20-30min。
7.根据权利要求6所述的全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:所述纳米二氧化钛的粒径为20-30nm。
8.根据权利要求1所述的全真丝色织经编制备工艺,其特征在于:所述蚕丝的纤度为24/26D。
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