CN108498368A - The cosmetic composition for improving the percutaneous permeability of substance for enhancing skin - Google Patents
The cosmetic composition for improving the percutaneous permeability of substance for enhancing skin Download PDFInfo
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/361—Carboxylic acids having more than seven carbon atoms in an unbroken chain; Salts or anhydrides thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/42—Amides
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
- A61K8/65—Collagen; Gelatin; Keratin; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic compositions for promoting percutaneous permeability.More specifically, the present invention relates to the cosmetic compositions of a kind of creams, lotion, essential oil containing self assembly surfactant cyclic peptide (SASCP) and fatty acid mixt etc., to improve the high percutaneous permeability of substance with low irritant and skin.
Description
Technical field
Improving the percutaneous permeability of substance for enhancing the skin for improving skin the present invention relates to a kind of
Cosmetic composition.More particularly it relates to a kind of cosmetic composition promoting ingredient containing Cutaneous permeation, the skin
Skin infiltration, which promotes ingredient to be used to enhance skin, improves the percutaneous permeability of substance, wherein the skin improves substance
For the macromolecular that can be incorporated into cosmetics for improving various skins.
Background technology
From histology, skin is made of epidermis, corium, subcutaneous fat etc., and skin thickness is according to position, age
It is varied from gender.Despite the presence of various skins, but these skins are played such as respectively to external environment
The functions such as barrier function and other physiologic functions.Cuticula has a structure in which：Keratinization dead cell is deposited in as fat
Between the intercellular lipid bilayer of matter thin layer, in keratinization dead cell, the water containing highdensity opposite high hydrophobicity
Insoluble keratin.Unique level (hierarchical) structure possessed by matrix rich in lipid and insoluble protein generates
To the impenetrability of the various chemokines including the compound from external environment.Specifically, due to cuticula
Hydrophobicity multilayered structure, hydrophihc bioactive substance is very difficult to infiltrate into skin.Therefore, in general, in health
In skin, substance by the skin of the transport of keratin, especially macromolecular form improve the Cutaneous permeation of substance due to
The various protective effects of skin and be not easily accomplished, and even when they penetrate to the skin it is middle when, also only oozed with extremely low concentration
Thoroughly.However, in the case of cosmetics, physiological activator contained in cosmetics has to pass through as the outermost cutin of skin
Layer, to play its effect, but due to the hydrophobicity multilayered structure of cuticula and thus caused by barrier function, result in
Skin contained in cosmetics improves the problem of substance cannot give full play to their functions.In order to make contained in cosmetics
Skin improves substance and plays its function, while meeting skin barrier function, and skin improves substance must be with high concentration
Included in cosmetics.In this case, when containing expensive skin improvement substance with high concentration, they will become
The factor that product price goes up, and improve substance due to containing skin with high concentration, lead to skin irritation potential
Increase.In addition, a large amount of skin, which improves substance, has the characteristic for inhibiting cosmetics stability, and therefore, when they with
In the presence of high concentration, the problem of bringing in terms of commodity production.Therefore, in order to overcome the problems, such as these, it is essential that exploitation
A kind of cosmetics promoting Cutaneous permeation, can steadily mix a small amount of skin improves substance, to effectively make
It is absorbed into skin.Pass through various researchs, it has been reported that the Cutaneous permeation of the percutaneous permeability for improving active constituent promotees
Into agent, and infiltrative promotion is broadly divided into following mechanism：I) intercellular lipid bilayer is acted on；Ii ginseng) is acted on
With the desmosome and GAP-associated protein GAP of Cell tracking；And iii) directly act on the internal structure of horn cell.For iuntercellular
The delivering hardening agent effect of lipid bilayer mainly makes the loosely organized of lipid dual sub-layers and thus active material is promoted to pass
The mechanism sent, and it is known that most of dermal osmosis accelerator promotes to deliver by these functions.In some skins
In the case of penetration enhancer, it is known that they act on the desmosome and GAP-associated protein GAP for the intercellular connection for participating in horn cell,
And to by making the connection between horn cell separate or loosely or make the mechanism that iuntercellular interval broadens and promote to pass
It send.In the case of other dermal osmosis accelerators, it is known that they are by penetrating into inside horn cell and therefore making angle
Albumen degenerates or influences internal structure to promote to deliver via transcellular pathway.That is, dermal osmosis accelerator can not be kept away
Change skin outermost layer cuticula structure with exempting from, to promote the percutaneous permeability of physiological activator.Therefore, mostly
Dermal osmosis accelerator has to the high toxicity of Skin Cell and induces skin irritatin, such as calcination skin when application to skin
The feature of skin sense and erythema.Therefore, it is necessary to find the measure for alleviating skin irritatin, such as promoted by effectively mixing Cutaneous permeation
Usage amount is reduced to the maximum extent into agent.
In addition, being that 500 dalton or higher macromolecular are difficult to replacing for cuticula across skin as molecular weight is avoided
For means, the method that usually such as forms in cuticula pore using micropin and required ingredient delivery is made to pass through the skin.To the greatest extent
Pipe has partly been commercialized using the method for micropin, but it still has various problems in use.For example, working as micropin
When application to skin, pain can be caused, although may vary with each individual.Alternatively, there is also the amounts of the ingredient accommodated in micropin
It is limited this problem.Therefore, there is an urgent need to develop a kind of Cutaneous permeation methods or one kind in improving skin
It shows active macromolecular Cutaneous permeation and promotes substance.
About this point, Korean Patent No.10-1193606 discloses a kind of makeup for the skin permeation rates for having and improving
Product composition and the method for preparing the composition, which contains pH response nanos particle and bionic surface is lived
Property agent, wherein be mixed with the active constituent of skin.Similarly, Korean Patent No.10-1609041, which is disclosed, a kind of having merged use
In promote Cutaneous permeation peptide and epithelial cell growth factor (EGF) fusion protein, by using phage library and thoroughly
The combination of skin agent elutes test method to be selected, and discloses the makeup for improving skin containing fusion protein
Product composition, and utilize the pharmaceutical composition used for external skin containing above-mentioned fusion protein.
In these cases, the present inventor expends a tremendous amount of effort to communicate can promote macromolecular Cutaneous permeation to research and develop one kind
Property method and substance, the macromolecular show the activity for improving skin etc., and it was found that, when mixing and use self assembly
When surfactant cyclic peptide (SASCP) and fatty acid mixt, such cosmetic composition is provided：It can be straight by macromolecular
It connects and is delivered to skin, show excellent percutaneous permeability and pain will not be caused, so as to complete the present invention.
Invention content
【Technical problem】
It is an object of the present invention to provide a kind of cosmetic composition, which includes that self assembly surface is lived
Property agent cyclic peptide and fatty acid mixt, improve the percutaneous permeability of substance to enhance skin and reduce to the maximum extent
Lead to the possibility of skin irritatin.
【Technical solution】
According to the one aspect of the present invention for realizing above-mentioned purpose, the present invention relates to a kind of cosmetic composition, the makeups
Product composition includes self assembly surfactant cyclic peptide (SASCP) and fatty acid mixt, is improved to enhance skin
The percutaneous permeability of substance and skin irritatin is reduced to the maximum extent.Preferably, cosmetic composition can be creams, lotion or
Essential oil.
Cosmetic composition according to the present invention, which has, to be characterized as：The cosmetic composition contains the work of self assembly surface
Property agent cyclic peptide (SASCP) and saturated fatty acid and unsaturated fatty acid by making the method that macromolecular percutaneous permeability enhances with spy
The mixture (being hereinafter referred to as fatty acid mixt) of certainty ratio mixing, wherein macromolecular has 500 dalton or higher
Molecular weight.SASCP is made of l-amino acid and D- amino acid, and amino acid contained quantity can be 3~9.
Herein, SASCP refers to having surface-active and the cyclic peptide by capableing of self assembly (that is, self aggregation).SASCP
Have and is characterized as its tool there are two region：The two regions have and can form hydrophobic interaction and electrostatic interaction
Functional group, and specifically comprising amino acid region and hydrocarbon chain region.Amino acid region corresponds to the header area in cyclic peptide
Domain, and be with can static electrification lotus or play electrostatic interaction functional group region, due to intramolecular and adjacent point
Electrostatic attraction between son can form hydrogen bond.In addition, it contains 3~9 l-amino acids and D- amino acid for being applicable in cyclization, example
Such as, L-Leu, D-Leu, Valine, l-Isoleucine etc., and further include carbonyl and amino.Carbonyl can with-
COO-M+(metal ions such as M=Na, K, Ca) form exists, and is the functional group with electrostatic charge.
In addition, hydrocarbon chain region corresponds to tail region.With adjacent molecule hydrophobic interaction occurs for the region, and by having
It is made of the hydrocarbon chain of 9~19 carbon atoms.
In addition, SASCP may include hydrophobic alkyl or closed chain in its side chain.Side chain may include 5~15 hydrocarbon.When
When SASCP includes hydrophobic alkyl in its side chain, intracellular or iuntercellular hydrophobic interaction occurs, and due to ammonia in peptide
The presence of base and carboxyl and help to be stably formed finer ring-type by the hydrogen bond between intramolecular or adjacent molecule
Structure.
In a specific embodiment, SASCP is the compound represented by following formula 1.
[chemical formula 1]
Wherein, * indicates that optical activity site, L-Leu are L-Leu, and D-Leu is D-Leu and L-val is L-
Valine；
X is selected from least one of the group being made of L-Leu, l-Isoleucine or Valine amino acid；
R be with 9~13 carbon atoms and may replace there are one or multiple substituent groups straight chained alkyl or branched alkyl,
In, the substituent group may include amino, hydroxyl, phenyl, aryl, alkanoyl (alkanoyl group), alkenyl, alkynyl, alcoxyl
Base, nitro, halogen group etc.；And
M is hydrogen, alkali metal, alkaline-earth metal, optionally substituted amine (including ammonium)；Wherein, the example packet of the alkali metal
Include but be not limited to lithium, sodium and potassium, the example of alkaline-earth metal includes but not limited to that the example of beryllium, magnesium, calcium etc. and amine includes first
Amine, ethamine, benzylamine, aniline, diethylamine, dicyclohexylamine, pyrrolidines, morpholine, N- benzyl-N-ethylamines, N-ethylaniline, three second
Amine, pyridine etc..
In a specific embodiment, the total weight of the cosmetic composition based on 100 parts by weight, the content of the SASCP
Can be 0.1~5 parts by weight.When the amount of SASCP is less than 0.1 parts by weight, the enhancing effect of Cutaneous permeation is insufficient.When SASCP's
When amount is more than 5 parts by weight, the Economic Inferior Position for not only causing production cost high, but also since SASCP can lead to skin irritatin.It is preferred that
Ground, content can be 0.1~3.5 parts by weight.
Similar to these peptides, fatty acid mixt is by with the official that can form hydrophobic interaction and electrostatic interaction
Two regions that can be rolled into a ball are constituted.
The interaction (hydrogen bond, hydrophobic interaction) of both types in SASCP is changed in various skins
Into generable interaction between substance or other additives, wherein it includes for cosmetics group that various skins, which improve substance,
Close cellulose, hydrophobic fat acid, hydrophobicity oil, hyaluronic acid and its salt, the collagen of other components contained in object
The functional group of this interaction can be carried out by having Deng, other additives.
Meanwhile cosmetic composition according to the present invention has the characteristic that：The cosmetic composition is simultaneously including fat
Acid blend and SASCP, the skin to promote and enhance the macromolecule contained in composition promote the skin of substance
Permeability.
Saturated fatty acid contained in fatty acid mixt specifically for the saturated fatty acid with 10~18 carbon atoms, and
And for example its can be selected from by capric acid, hendecanoic acid, lauric acid, pentadecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and they
The group that is formed of combination, but not limited to this.
Meanwhile unsaturated fatty acid contained in fatty acid mixt is specifically for the unsaturation with 12~24 carbon atoms
Aliphatic acid, and for example its can be selected from by palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid (ω 3), gamma-linoleic acid and they
The group that is formed of combination, but not limited to this.These saturated fatty acids and unsaturated fatty acid are to constitute lipid (for the master of skin
Want ingredient) aliphatic acid, or be chain length and the closely similar aliphatic acid of shape.Structure and the phosphatide for constituting skin are most like
Saturated fatty acid includes myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid etc..In addition, unsaturated fatty acid packet similar with the ingredient of skin
Include palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid (ω 3), gamma-linoleic acid etc..
The present invention has the feature that fatty acid mixt utilizes in saturated fatty acid and unsaturated fatty acid at least
One kind forms, and there is no special the number of the type and mixed aliphatic acid of saturated fatty acid and unsaturated fatty acid
Limitation.
In a preferred embodiment, the total weight of the composition based on 100 parts by weight, the content of fatty acid mixt are
0.1~30 parts by weight.Mixed weight ratio between saturated fatty acid and unsaturated fatty acid is 8:2~2:8.When weight ratio is upper
When stating except range, skin permeation rates can reduce, or skin irritatin can occur.
In another preferred embodiment, SASCP:Aliphatic acid is with 0.5:99.5~20:80 mixed weight is than carrying out
Mixing.
In head zone, aliphatic acid contains carboxyl, and tail region is made of linear alkyl chain, and themselves is in water
It is used as surfactant in property solution.The fatty acid mixt is saturated fatty acid similar with the ingredient of skin and unsaturated lipid
Fat acid is with specific blend than mixed mixture.The fatty acid mixt being made of saturated fatty acid and unsaturated fatty acid passes through
Electrostatic attraction and carry out Hydrogenbond, and carried out together with self assembly surfactant cyclic peptide (SASCP) by hydrocarbon chain hydrophobic
Effect, is enable to form more stable fine structure, thus provides the mixing uniformity and liquid of cosmetic composition
Phase stability.In addition, when the cosmetic composition applied, improve substance containing skin in such as creams, lotion, essential oil
When, it plays a significant role in terms of enhancing percutaneous permeability.
As described above, self assembly surfactant cyclic peptide (SASCP) is made of 3~9 amino acid, correspond to header area
Domain, and hydrocarbon chain corresponds to tail region.Size possessed by the head zone being made of 3~9 amino acid is that conventional surface is lived
Twice of the head zone of property agent.Structure possessed by SASCP is at least twice that fatty acid mixt is formed by structure.Cause
This, the specific mixture being made of SASCP and fatty acid mixt, which can have, makes molecular dimension be 500 dalton~10000
The skin that you pause improves the feature of the percutaneous permeability enhancing of substance.
In addition, in the interaction of both types in SASCP, when with cosmetic composition, such as creams, breast
Collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salt contained in liquid, essential oil, or with skin that molecular dimension is 500 dalton or bigger
Situation improves substance when Hydrogenbond interacts, and forms fine cyclic structure, and therefore, it is possible to enhance
These skins improve the percutaneous permeability of substance.
In yet another embodiment, the present invention can further include penetrates into skin together with SASCP and fatty acid mixt
" substance for improving skin " or " drink edible material from soybeans (diet substance) " in skin, to show improvement skin
The effect of skin situation.
As used herein, term " improving skin " typically refers to treat, slow down or alleviate by internal factor
Or the process of the skin injury caused by external factor, or thus generated effect.For example, its can be anti-aging, it is crease-resistant,
Elastic enhancing, moisturizing (keeping the skin wet), nutrition, improves atopic dermatitis, excoriation, alleviates skin problem (such as Cuo whitening
Sore) etc..Therefore, the use of " skin improvement substance " and/or " drink edible material from soybeans " is unrestricted, as long as it is that can present
Go out to improve the effect of skin and/or diet.As described above, the skin improvement substance used in the present invention can
Improve substance for the skin of macromolecular, the molecular dimension with the dalton of preferably 500 dalton~10000.For example, it can
Be preferably selected from by following item group in groups in one or more substances：Ursin；Niacinamide；Vitamin C；Vitamin B5；
Vitamin E；Retinol；Co-Q10；Adenosine；Elastin laminin；Collagen；Hyaluronic acid；Chitosan；Natural extract and
Combination thereof.Wherein, the example of natural extract includes aloe, green tea, ginseng, red ginseng, pyroligneous liquor (pyroligneous
Liquor), pine tree leaf, ginkgo leaf, propolis, mulberry leaf, silkworm, snail mucus (snail slime), Ka Kaduli (kakadu
Plum), Ka Muguo (camu camu), A Sayi palms (acai palm), saualane, caviar (caviar), broccoli, indigo plant
The certain kind of berries, witch hazel (witch hazel), golden tail brave (acerola), chlorella (chlorella), mangosteen, guava, Fructus Corni
Fragrant (hamamelis), spirulina, salmon roe (salmon in (Cornus officinalis), carrot, caffeine, wood
Roe), chamber kelp (Ecklonia cava), bulk kelp, areschoung kelps (Laminaria japonica
Areschoung), common purslane (common purslane), green laver, agar (Gelidium amansii), Sang Gen
(mulberry root), raspberry, wild strawberry, sargassum fusifome (hijiki), sargassum, edelweiss (edelweiss), chamomile,
Lavender, peppermint, eucalyptus, lemon mint (lemon balm), wild marjoram (lemon balm), tea tree, scutellaria
(skullcaps), cordate houttuynia, sea-buckthorn (sea buckthorn), citron (citron), albumin, yolk, milk proem；And its
It includes capsaicine, conjugate linolenic acid, caffeine, Garcinia Cambogia (HCA), pyruvic acid, inulin propionic ester that its lipolytic, which promotes substance,
And other steatolysis (lipolytic) substances, but not limited to this.Cosmetic combinations according to the present invention based on 100 parts by weight
Skin actives can be added with the amount of 0.01~5 parts by weight in the total weight of object.
The cosmetic composition of Cutaneous permeation according to the present invention for promoting skin to improve substance can be made into
Any preparation routinely prepared in this field.For example, in addition to the conventional cosmetic compositions such as lotion, toner, essential oil, creams it
Outside, the various functions cosmetics that can be applied to including anti-senescence function chemicals and whitening function cosmetics
Composition.In addition, cosmetic composition can be made into various preparations, and in the formulation without specific limitation, can be made into creams,
The dosage forms such as toner, lotion, essential oil.More specifically, it can be prepared into makeup soft water (soft cosmetic water), makeup
Nutritive water, essential oil, nutritional emulsions, nourishing cream, eye cream, massage cream, face cleaning foam, makeup remover, loose powder, facial mask, for hair
Cosmetics, body lotion, body creams, body oily (body oil), body essential oil (body essence), body clean skin dew
Deng.In a preferred embodiment, cosmetic composition of the invention can be creams, lotion or essential oil formulation.Institute in the present invention
The carrier or additive used can be optionally added into according to the formula of cosmetic composition.
Therefore, cosmetic composition as used in the present invention can further comprise in cosmetics, such as emulsifiable paste, breast
Conventional use of component in liquid, essential oil etc., for example, oil component, moisturizer, emollient, surfactant, organic and inorganic face
Material, organic dust (organic powders), ultraviolet absorber, antiseptic, disinfectant, antioxidant, plant extracts, pH
Conditioning agent, alcohols, pigment, flavouring agent, blood circulation accelerant, freshener, antiperspirant, antiseptic and solvent and according to preference
It can further comprise flavouring agent.
In addition, if the present invention preparation be paste, cream or gel, can contain animal origin, plant fiber, wax,
The works such as paraffin, starch, tragacanth, fiber derivative, polyethylene glycol, silicone, bentonite, silica, talcum powder, zinc oxide
For carrier component.If the preparation of the present invention is powder or spray, lactose, talcum powder, silica, hydroxide can be contained
Aluminium, calcium silicates or polyamide powder are as carrier component.Specifically, if preparation is spray, it can extraly contain and promote
Agent, such as chlorofluorocarbons, propane/butane or dimethyl ether.If the preparation of the present invention is solution or lotion, solvent can be contained, increased
Solvent or emulsifier are as carrier component.Their example includes water, ethyl alcohol, isopropanol, ethyl carbonate, ethyl acetate, benzene first
The fat of alcohol, Ergol, propylene glycol, 1,3 butylene glycol oil, glycerine-aliphatic ester, polyethylene glycol or sorbitan
Acid esters.If the preparation of the present invention is suspension, it may include liquid diluent, such as water, ethyl alcohol or propylene glycol；Suspending agent,
Such as ethoxylated isostearyl alcohols, polyoxyethylene sorbitol ester and polyoxyethylene mountain sorbitan ester；Microcrystalline cellulose；
Inclined aluminium hydroxide；Bentonite；Agar or tragacanth etc. are used as carrier component.
【Advantageous effect】
Cosmetic composition present invention as described above has excellent skin permeability so that contained is used to change
The macromolecular skin of kind skin improves penetration to skin, to effectively permeate and be delivered to each for providing
In skin actives necessary to kind cosmetic result and improvement skin problem, and then improvement skin can be showed
Excellent effect.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is HA-F penetration testing (embodiments when showing using SASCP according to the present invention and fatty acid mixt
1) fluorescent image of result.
Fig. 2 is HA-F penetration testing (comparative examples when showing using SASCP according to the present invention and fatty acid mixt
1) fluorescent image of result.
Fig. 3 is the fluorescent image for the result for showing HA- blank penetration testing (comparative example 2).
Specific implementation mode
Hereinafter, the composition that the present invention will be more fully described by specific embodiment.However, for skill belonging to the present invention
The those of ordinary skill in art field is it is clear that the scope of the present invention is not limited to these examples.
[embodiment 1] carries out Cutaneous permeation test using fluorescent material to improve substance to the skin of the present invention
It is contemplated that being lived by combining self assembly surface in the cosmetic compositions such as creams, lotion, essential oil
Property agent cyclic peptide and fatty acid mixt, the percutaneous permeability that the skin for skin improves substance will be enhanced.Therefore,
As follows the conclusion is confirmed using fluorescent material.
Using the Hyalo-oligo that the average molecular wt provided by QP is 5000 dalton as hyaluronic acid, and
It is tested by Incospharm mark fluorescent substances on it, and for Cutaneous permeation.
It in order to carry out Cutaneous permeation test, forms, prepare according to the present invention and compares according to shown in the following table 2 to table 4
SASCP and fatty acid mixt contained in the cosmetic compositions such as creams, lotion, the essential oil of example.In embodiment and
In comparative example, SASCP and fatty acid mixt are with mixed weight ratio for 11:89 to prepare, and is embezzled in fatty acid mixt
Mixed weight ratio between aliphatic acid and unsaturated fatty acid is 35:65.
Using myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid etc. as saturated fatty acid, and use palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, sub- oil
Acid, leukotrienes etc. are used as unsaturated fatty acid.Specific mixed proportion is shown in the following table 1.
[table 1]
In addition, the human cadaver skin bought from Hans Biomed Corporation is stored in -75 DEG C, and
Naturally to thaw is carried out to it immediately using preceding.The phosphate buffer filling for being 7.4 with pH is spread in the pond Forlan thatch (franz) simultaneously
It uses.It is 37.5 DEG C identical with human body temperature by temperature setting, and the human cadaver skin of suitable size is placed on expansion
The top of arching pushing Forlan Ci Chi covers Forlan Ci Chigai and is fixed with fixture.Composition to be tested with viscosity is loaded to
It on human cadaver skin, closes the lid, and the expertly bubble of removal phosphate buffer bottom.Then, start infiltration to survey
Examination, while being stirred with the constant rate of speed of 50rpm, and after 0.5h, 1h, 3h, 5h, 8h, collecting each skin-like
Product.The skin histology collected in each sample time is pre-processed, and passes through Abion Inc microscopic slide systems
At sample.The fluorescent material for penetrating into skin histology is shot with Laser Scanning Confocal Microscope.As a result show Fig. 1 to Fig. 3 and under
In table 5.
[table 2] HA-F (hyaluronic acid-fluorescent material) penetration testing (embodiment 1)
[table 3] HA-F (hyaluronic acid-fluorescent material) penetration testing (comparative example 1)
| Ingredient | Content (wt%) |
| HA-F (hyaluronic acid-fluorescent material) | 2% |
| SASCP- fatty acid mixts | 15% |
| Polysorbate60 | 2% |
| Propylene glycol | 14% |
| Xylose glucose glycosides (Aquaxyl) | 1% |
| Distilled water | 66% |
[table 4] HA-F (hyaluronic acid-fluorescent material) blank penetration testing (comparative example 2)
| Ingredient | Content (wt%) |
| HA-F (hyaluronic acid-fluorescent material) | 2% |
| Distilled water | 98% |
The result of the penetration testing of [table 5] fluorescent material
Compared with HA-F blank (Blank) penetration testing (comparative example 2), such as creams, lotion, essential oil of the present invention are used
The combination of self assembly surfactant cyclic peptide (SASCP) and fatty acid mixt contained in equal cosmetic compositions carries out
Opposite excellent skin permeability is shown in HA-F (hyaluronic acid-fluorescent material) penetration testing.Specifically, it was confirmed that with blank
It compares, the composition of the fatty acid mixt containing SASCP+ makes the percutaneous permeability of the substance (such as hyaluronic acid) of high molecule mass
Enhancing 200% or more.
In addition, in order to which the more commercially available and known percutaneous permeability for making high molecular weight material (such as hyaluronic acid) enhances
Space peptide (CTX Technology etc.) with the present invention the cyclic peptide of surfactant containing self assembly (SASCP) and aliphatic acid mix
The composition of object, to the HA-F penetration testing of HA-F (hyaluronic acid-fluorescent material) penetration testing and comparative example 2 of embodiment 1
It is compared.Therefore, as demonstrated in table 4, the penetration depth of the fluorescent material of embodiment and comparative example 1 shows almost phase
As be worth.That is, with using SASCP and fatty acid mixt to be used only compared with the combination of space peptide and contain SASCP and fat
The skin penetration results of the composition of fat acid blend show that essentially identical or similar skin penetration results are horizontal, with regard to skin
There is no essence difference for permeability.Therefore, it can be verified that, the Cutaneous permeation effect of space peptide is relatively low, and this
The Cutaneous permeation effect for inventing the SASCP and fatty acid mixt that use is far superior to the Cutaneous permeation effect of space peptide.
In addition, according to shown in table 5 as a result, after this Cutaneous permeation lasts are increased up 3 hours, and then
It is maintained at constant level.
[preparation example 1] prepares the essential oil formulation with the present composition
Cosmetic composition according to the present invention is mixed to prepare essential oil formulation according to being formed shown in the following table 6.With
Identical mode prepares SASCP+ fatty acid mixts in table 6 in embodiment 1 and table 1.
The composition of the essential oil formulation of [table 6] cosmetic composition according to the present invention
| Component | Content (%) |
| HA | 5.0% |
| SASCP+ fatty acid mixts | 0.5% |
| Polysorbate60 | 2.0% |
| Xylose glucose glycosides (Aquaxyl) | 14.0% |
| Distilled water | 64.15% |
| Xanthans | 0.1% |
| Carbomer (Carbomer) | 0.3% |
| Ethyl alcohol | 3.0% |
| 1,3 butylene glycol | 5.0% |
| Glycerine | 5.0% |
| Phenoxyethanol | 0.2% |
| Sodium citrate | 0.1% |
| EDTA-2Na | 0.05% |
| Triethanolamine | 0.3% |
| East wood (Oriental Wood) | 0.3% |
As shown in table 6, cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also be fabricated which the cyclic peptide of surfactant containing self assembly
(SASCP) and the essential oil formulation of fatty acid mixt.These self assembly surfactants (SASCP) and aliphatic acid not only facilitate
Stable essential oil formulation is formed, the percutaneous permeability of the active constituent for skin is additionally aided.
Claims (13)
1. a kind of cosmetic composition of percutaneous permeability for promoting skin to improve substance, the cosmetic composition
Containing self assembly surfactant cyclic peptide (SASCP) and fatty acid mixt,
Wherein, the SASCP is the compound represented by following chemical formula 1：
[chemical formula 1]
Wherein, * indicates that optical activity site, L-Leu are L-Leu, and D-Leu is D-Leu and L-val is L- figured silk fabrics ammonia
Acid；
X is selected from least one of the group being made of L-Leu, l-Isoleucine or Valine amino acid；
R is with 9~13 carbon atoms and there are one capable of replacing or the straight chained alkyl or branched alkyl of multiple substituent groups, wherein
The substituent group may include amino, hydroxyl, aryl, alkanoyl, alkenyl, alkynyl, alkoxy, nitro or halogen group；And
M is hydrogen or alkali metal, wherein the alkali metal is lithium, sodium or potassium.
2. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition further contains skin
Improve substance and/or drink edible material from soybeans.
3. cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein it is selected from by following item that the skin, which improves substance,
One or more substances in the group formed：Collagen；Hyaluronic acid；Ursin；Niacinamide；Vitamin C；Vitamin
B5；Vitamin E；Retinol；Co-Q10；Adenosine；Elastin laminin；Chitosan；Selected from by aloe, green tea, ginseng, red ginseng, the wooden vinegar
Acid solution, pine tree leaf, ginkgo leaf, propolis, mulberry leaf, silkworm, snail mucus, Ka Kaduli, Ka Muguo, A Sayi palm, saualane, fish
Sub- sauce, broccoli, blueberry, witch hazel, golden tail tiger, chlorella, mangosteen, guava, Fructus Corni (Cornus officinalis),
Fragrant (hamamelis) in carrot, caffeine, wood, spirulina, salmon roe, chamber kelp (Ecklonia cava), bulk kelp,
Areschoung kelps (Laminaria japonica areschoung), common purslane, green laver, agar
It is (Gelidium amansii), Sang Gen, raspberry, wild strawberry, sargassum fusifome, sargassum, edelweiss, chamomile, lavender, thin
Lotus, eucalyptus (Eucalyptus), lemon mint, wild marjoram, tea tree, scutellaria, cordate houttuynia (Houttuynia cordata), sand
The natural extract of the material for the group that spine, citron, albumin, yolk and milk proem are formed；And combination thereof.
4. cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the drink edible material from soybeans following item selected from being made of
One or more substances in group：Capsaicine, conjugate linolenic acid, caffeine, Garcinia Cambogia (HCA), pyruvic acid, inulin propionic ester with
And combination thereof.
5. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the cosmetic composition is creams, lotion or essential oil
Preparation.
6. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein all compositions based on 100 parts by weight, it is described
The content of SASCP is 0.1~5 parts by weight.
7. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the fatty acid mixt includes having 10~18 carbon
The mixture of the saturated fatty acid of atom and the unsaturated fatty acid with 12~24 carbon atoms.
8. cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the saturated fatty acid with 10~18 carbon atoms
It is one or more in the group being made of following item：Capric acid, hendecanoic acid, lauric acid, pentadecanoic acid, nutmeg
Acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and combination thereof.
9. cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the unsaturated fat with 12~24 carbon atoms
Acid is one or more in the group being made of following item：Palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid (ω 3),
Gamma-linoleic acid and combination thereof.
10. cosmetic composition according to claim 7, wherein the saturated fat with 10~18 carbon atoms
The sour mixed weight ratio between the unsaturated fatty acid with 12~24 carbon atoms is 8:2~2:8.
11. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein used SASCP:The weight of fatty acid mixt
Than being 0.5:99.5~20:80.
12. cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein the skin improves substance and/or diet object
Matter has the molecular weight of the dalton of 500 dalton~10000.
13. cosmetic composition according to claim 1, the cosmetic composition further contains selected from by following item
One or more additives in the group formed：Lubricant component, moisturizer, emollient, surfactant, organic and inorganic face
Material, organic dust, ultraviolet absorber, antiseptic, disinfectant, antioxidant, plant extracts, pH adjusting agent, alcohols, dyestuff,
Flavouring agent, blood circulation accelerant, freshener, antiperspirant, antiseptic, flavouring agent, solvent and combination thereof.
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| KR1020170025038A KR101786913B1 (en) | 2017-02-24 | 2017-02-24 | Cosmetic composition for enhancing skin permeation of active ingredient |
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Cited By (4)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN110179716A (en) * | 2019-07-03 | 2019-08-30 | 香港康美国际贸易有限公司 | A kind of makeup removing condensation and preparation method thereof with care action |
| CN110638732A (en) * | 2019-10-30 | 2020-01-03 | 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 | Oil-in-water cosmetic composition containing powder and preparation method thereof |
| CN112076145A (en) * | 2020-08-30 | 2020-12-15 | 荣鼎(广东)生物科技有限公司 | Cosmetic with black eye and pouch removing effects and preparation method thereof |
| CN114569503A (en) * | 2020-12-02 | 2022-06-03 | 蔻诗曼嘉韩国股份公司 | Cosmetic composition for improving scalp state comprising natural complex extract |
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| WO2020009548A1 (en) * | 2018-07-06 | 2020-01-09 | 애니젠 주식회사 | Cosmetic composition for removing or adsorbing particulate matter containing peptide complex as active ingredient |
| KR102286969B1 (en) * | 2019-06-21 | 2021-08-06 | (주) 바이텍 | Composition for improving skin conditions comprising omega-7 derived from refined fish oil and red ginseng |
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Cited By (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN110179716A (en) * | 2019-07-03 | 2019-08-30 | 香港康美国际贸易有限公司 | A kind of makeup removing condensation and preparation method thereof with care action |
| CN110638732A (en) * | 2019-10-30 | 2020-01-03 | 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 | Oil-in-water cosmetic composition containing powder and preparation method thereof |
| CN110638732B (en) * | 2019-10-30 | 2020-12-01 | 彭氏(惠州)实业发展有限公司 | Oil-in-water cosmetic composition containing powder and preparation method thereof |
| CN112076145A (en) * | 2020-08-30 | 2020-12-15 | 荣鼎(广东)生物科技有限公司 | Cosmetic with black eye and pouch removing effects and preparation method thereof |
| CN114569503A (en) * | 2020-12-02 | 2022-06-03 | 蔻诗曼嘉韩国股份公司 | Cosmetic composition for improving scalp state comprising natural complex extract |
| CN114569503B (en) * | 2020-12-02 | 2024-01-02 | 蔻诗曼嘉韩国股份公司 | Cosmetic composition for improving scalp condition comprising natural complex extract |
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| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| CN108498368B (en) | 2019-10-01 |
| KR101786913B1 (en) | 2017-10-17 |
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