CN108396447A - 一种高机号单面纬编针织物 - Google Patents
一种高机号单面纬编针织物 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种高机号单面纬编织物,包括织物本体,该织物本体为纬平针添纱组织结构的织物,其特征在于,所述织物具体为以120S长绒棉纱为面纱,20D低温型氨纶为地纱,经纬平针添纱组织编织成毛坯织物,毛坯织物经多道后处理工序,制成光坯织物;所述后处理工序包括烧毛、酶处理、柔软拉幅定型及轧光工艺。本发明制得的高机号单面纬编织物,织物密度高,手感柔软、滑爽,织物表面光滑有垂感,且具有良好弹性和延伸性,制作工艺简单,适于高档针织内衣。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及针织面料技术领域,具体涉及一种高机号单面纬编织物,适用高档针织内衣用面料。
背景技术
针织服装具有良好的服用舒适性,针织内衣面料轻薄滑爽、触感柔软、弹性延伸性佳、吸湿透气是发展趋势。轻薄型针织面料,一般采用高支纱线,在高机号针织机上形成高密度产品。市场上已有的高支高密纬编面料,大多采用化纤长丝编织,而采用天然纤维制备的高密织物,手感硬挺柔软性较差,不适于内衣产品。本发明以高支棉纱,经特殊的编织工艺和后整理工艺,开发了集手感柔软、滑爽、吸湿透气,具有良好弹性和延伸性的高密度纬编织物,适于高档针织内衣。
发明内容
本发明所要解决的问题是:天然纤维制备的高密织物手感差的问题。
为了解决上述问题,本发明提供了一种高机号单面纬编织物,包括织物本体,该织物本体为纬平针添纱组织结构的织物,其特征在于,所述织物具体为以120S长绒棉纱为面纱,20D低温型氨纶为地纱,经纬平针添纱组织编织成毛坯织物,毛坯织物经多道后处理工序,制成光坯织物;所述后处理工序包括烧毛、酶处理、柔软拉幅定型及轧光工艺。
优选地,所述120S长绒棉纱的纱线捻系数为1400-1500捻/m。
优选地,所述毛坯织物的横密为185-188线圈/5cm,纵密为145-148线圈/cm,克重为260g/m2。
优选地,所述光坯织物的横密为150线圈/5cm,纵密为115线圈/cm,克重为145g/m2。
优选地,所述后处理工序依序为剖幅、预定型、烧毛、酶处理、前处理、染色、平幅轧水、柔软烘燥、静置、柔软拉幅定型、轧光和检验打卷工艺。
更优选地,所述烧毛工艺采用双喷射火口的平幅烧毛机对织物进行烧毛处理,工艺参数为:车速60-80m/min、火口温度900-1100℃、火焰高度11-12cm、火焰喷射速度12-14cm/s。
更优选地,所述酶处理工艺采用的助剂为pH值为5.5的酶处理液,其包括占织物重量1.1-1.3%的DM-8637纤维素酶及占织物重量0.4-0.6%的冰醋酸;具体步骤为:按照浴比1∶10-12,在溢流常温染色机中室温注水,放入织物,运转10min后放入冰醋酸,运转10min后以3℃/min升温至50℃并保温,10min后加入DM-8637纤维素酶,保温30min后直接排液;5min后室温下注入冷水,水洗10min后排液;5min后再次注入冷水,以3℃/min升温速率升温至90℃,保温10min后以1℃/min降温速率降温至60℃后直接排液;注入冷水,冷水洗10min后排液;再次注入冷水,冷水洗10min后排液。
更优选地,所述染色工艺采用助剂和活性染料进行染色,助剂为占织物重量80%的元明粉、占织物重量30%的纯碱、占织物重量1.4-1.6%的皂洗酶、占织物重量0.9-1.0%的冰醋酸、占织物重量0.3-0.5%的固色剂和占织物重量0.4-0.6%的柔软剂;活性染料为占织物重量0.7-0.8%的活性红、占织物重量1.5-1.6%的活性黄和占织物重量3.2-3.3%的活性蓝;具体步骤为:按照浴比1∶10-12,在溢流常温染色机的缸中注入冷水,放入织物,运转20min后加入活性染料,运转20min后加入50%的元明粉,运转5min后加入剩余50%元明粉,运转15min后加入30%的纯碱,运转20min后加入剩余70%纯碱,运转5min后以3℃/min升温速率升温至60℃,保温60min后以2℃/min降温速率降温至45℃后直接排液;5min后注入冷水,洗涤10min后直接排液;5min后加入冰醋酸,运行10min后以3℃/min升温速率升温至50℃,加入皂洗酶,再以3.0℃/min升温速率升温至95℃,保温20min后以2℃/min降温速率降温至50℃后直接排液;室温下注入冷水,洗涤10min后排液;5min后再次室温下注入冷水,运转5min后放入柔软剂和固色剂,5min后直接升温至30℃,保温15min后直接排液。
更优选地,所述柔软拉幅定型工艺采用浸轧法,浸轧液采用浓度为35-45g/L的高弹力膨松剂硅油和浓度为65-55g/L的挺滑硅油,轧液率为65-75%;浸轧后用热风拉幅定型机对织物进行拉幅定型,拉幅定型温度为160-165℃,拉幅定型速度为18-20m/min,上下超喂量为30-35/0%,上下风量为60/70%,落机门幅为173-175cm,落机克重为155-160g/m2。
更优选地,所述轧光工艺采用连续加压蒸呢机进行轧光,工艺参数为:车速13-16m/min,超喂量1-3%,烫轧温度125-135℃,整箱温度95-105℃。
本发明提供了一种集手感柔软、滑爽、吸湿透气,具有良好弹性和延伸性的高密度纬编织物,制备工艺简单。
与现有技术相比,本发明具有以下有益效果:
(1)高密、轻薄:采用120S棉纱为面纱,20D氨纶为地纱,经高机号单面圆纬机编织成添纱组织结构的织物,所交织的氨纶具有收紧底布形成高密织物效应;同时本发明织物再经拉幅定型处理和扎光处理工艺,制得的光坯织物横密150线圈/5cm,纵密115线圈/cm,平方米克重145g/m2,织物密度高,平方米克重轻;
(2)手感柔软:本发明织物,在后整理过程中经复配的生物酶整理剂和相应的整理工艺,提升棉织物的触感柔软性能;采用二次不同阶段的柔软整理,即染色后烘燥时的第一次柔软烘燥整理和拉幅定型时的第二次柔软拉幅定型整理,手感柔软度佳;两次不同的柔软整理之间增设一个织物静置处理工序,使针织物充分松弛、柔软剂充分渗透,效果更佳,织物手感更柔软舒适;
(3)表面光滑、悬垂性好:选用120S棉为面纱进行添纱编织,坯布纹路清晰、光洁;织物在后整理过程中运用烧毛处、轧光处理工艺,有效减少棉纤维织物表面茸毛,增加织物丝质感和垂感;
(4)优良弹性:选用20D氨纶为地纱进行添纱编织,有效提高了织物的弹性和延伸性能。
附图说明
图1为本发明提供的高机号单面纬编针织物的结构示意图。
具体实施方式
为使本发明更明显易懂,兹以优选实施例,并配合附图作详细说明如下。
实施例
本实施例提供了一种高机号单面纬编织物,如图1所示,包括织物本体,该织物本体为纬平针添纱组织结构的织物,以120S长绒棉纱为面纱1,20D氨纶为地纱2,经纬平针添纱组织编织成毛坯织物,将该毛坯织物依次经剖幅、预定型、烧毛、酶处理、前处理、染色、平幅轧水、柔软烘燥、静置、柔软拉幅定型、轧光、检验打卷等后整理工艺,制成光坯织物。
上述高机号单面纬编织物的制备方法具体步骤如下:
1):选用120S长绒棉纱为面纱,20D氨纶为地纱,在筒径34英寸、机号42G、成圈***数72路的单面圆纬机上编织;控制120S长绒棉纱平均线圈长度为3.8mm,编织张力3.5g,20D氨纶编织张力;
2):下机后的毛坯织物横密187线圈纵行/5cm,纵密146线圈横列/5cm,平方米克重260g/m2;
3):下机后的毛坯织物,经剖幅、预定型、烧毛、酶处理、前处理、染色平幅轧水、柔软烘燥、静置、柔软拉幅定型、轧光、检验打卷,其中:
(1)烧毛工艺:选用双喷射火口的平幅烧毛机对织物进行烧毛处理,优选车速70m/min、火口温度1000℃、火焰高度11.5cm、火焰喷射速度13cm/s;
(2)酶处理工艺:选用助剂为:占织物重量比1.2%的DM-8637纤维素酶、占织物重量比0.5%的冰醋酸,控制酶处理液pH值为5.5,按照浴比1∶10,在溢流常温染色机中室温注水,放入织物,运转10min后放入冰醋酸,运转10min后以3℃/min升温至50℃并保温,10min后加入DM-8637纤维素酶,保温30min后直接排液;5min后室温下注入冷水,水洗10min后排液;5min后再次注入冷水,以3℃/min升温速率升温至90℃,保温10min后以1℃/min降温速率降温至60℃后直接排液;注入冷水,冷水洗10min后排液;再次注入冷水,冷水洗10min后排液;
(3)染色工艺:选用助剂为:占织物重量比80%的元明粉、占织物重量比30%的纯碱、占织物重量比1.5%的皂洗酶、占织物重量比1.0%的冰醋酸、占织物重量比0.4%的固色剂、占织物重量比0.5%的K-Soft柔软剂;选用活性染料为:占织物重量比0.71%的活性红、占织物重量比1.52%的活性黄、占织物重量比3.27%的活性蓝,按照浴比1∶10,在溢流常温染色机的缸中注入冷水,放入织物,运转20min后加入活性染料,运转20min后加入50%元明粉,运转5min后加入剩余50%元明粉,运转15min后加入30%纯碱,运转20min后加入剩余70%纯碱,运转5min后以3℃/min升温速率升温至60℃,保温60min后以2℃/min降温速率降温至45℃后直接排液;5min后注入冷水,洗涤10min后直接排液;5min后加入冰醋酸,运行10min后以3℃/min升温速率升温至50℃,加入皂洗酶,再以3.0℃/min升温速率升温至95℃,保温20min后以2℃/min降温速率降温至50℃后直接排液;室温下注入冷水,洗涤10min后排液;5min后再次室温下注入冷水,运转5min后放入柔软剂和固色剂,5min后直接升温至30℃,保温15min后直接排液;
(4)柔软拉幅定型工艺,采用浸轧法进行柔软整理,优选二种硅油拼混而成的柔软剂:柔软整理液总浓度为100g/L,其中二种硅油的拼混比例是40g/L的高弹力膨松剂硅油、60g/L的挺滑硅油,轧液率70%;选用热风拉幅定型机对织物进行拉幅定型,拉幅定型温度165℃,拉幅定型速度18m/min,上下超喂量为33/0%,上下风量为60/70%,落机门幅为174cm,落机平方米克重为158g/m2;
(5)轧光工艺:选用连续加压蒸呢机进行轧光,工艺参数为:车速15m/min,超喂量2%,烫轧温度130℃,整箱温度100℃。
其它后整理工序为常规工艺。
利用上述工艺,制得的光坯布门幅161cm,横密150线圈纵行/5cm,纵密115线圈横列/5cm,平方米克重145g/m2。
该织物纵向缩水率4.0%,横向缩水率2.8%,符合针织产品质量标准。
参照GB/T 18318-2009国家标准,采用LLY-01型电子硬挺度仪测试织物的弯曲长度和弯曲刚度;参照ENISO 9237标准,采用YG461G全自动透气量仪测试织物的透气性能;在KES表面摩擦测试仪上测试织物的摩擦系数和表面粗糙度,测试结果如表1所示。
表1
由表1可见,本发明织物的弯曲刚度小,平均摩擦系数小,表面粗糙度数低,显示该产品不仅高密、轻薄,且手感柔软,表面光滑。
Claims (10)
1.一种高机号单面纬编织物,包括织物本体,该织物本体为纬平针添纱组织结构的织物,其特征在于,所述织物具体为以120S长绒棉纱为面纱(1),20D低温型氨纶为地纱(2),经纬平针添纱组织编织成毛坯织物,毛坯织物经多道后处理工序,制成光坯织物;所述后处理工序包括烧毛、酶处理、柔软拉幅定型及轧光工艺。
2.如权利要求1所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述120S长绒棉纱的纱线捻系数为1400-1500捻/m。
3.如权利要求1所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述毛坯织物的横密为185-188线圈/5cm,纵密为145-148线圈/cm,克重为260g/m2。
4.如权利要求1所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述光坯织物的横密为150线圈/5cm,纵密为115线圈/cm,克重为145g/m2。
5.如权利要求1所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述后处理工序依序为剖幅、预定型、烧毛、酶处理、前处理、染色、平幅轧水、柔软烘燥、静置、柔软拉幅定型、轧光和检验打卷工艺。
6.如权利要求5所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述烧毛工艺采用双喷射火口的平幅烧毛机对织物进行烧毛处理,工艺参数为:车速60-80m/min、火口温度900-1100℃、火焰高度11-12cm、火焰喷射速度12-14cm/s。
7.如权利要求5所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述酶处理工艺采用的助剂为pH值为5.5的酶处理液,其包括占织物重量1.1-1.3%的DM-8637纤维素酶及占织物重量0.4-0.6%的冰醋酸;具体步骤为:按照浴比1∶10-12,在溢流常温染色机中室温注水,放入织物,运转10min后放入冰醋酸,运转10min后以3℃/min升温至50℃并保温,10min后加入DM-8637纤维素酶,保温30min后直接排液;5min后室温下注入冷水,水洗10min后排液;5min后再次注入冷水,以3℃/min升温速率升温至90℃,保温10min后以1℃/min降温速率降温至60℃后直接排液;注入冷水,冷水洗10min后排液;再次注入冷水,冷水洗10min后排液。
8.如权利要求5所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述染色工艺采用助剂和活性染料进行染色,助剂为占织物重量80%的元明粉、占织物重量30%的纯碱、占织物重量1.4-1.6%的皂洗酶、占织物重量0.9-1.0%的冰醋酸、占织物重量0.3-0.5%的固色剂和占织物重量0.4-0.6%的柔软剂;活性染料为占织物重量0.7-0.8%的活性红、占织物重量1.5-1.6%的活性黄和占织物重量3.2-3.3%的活性蓝;具体步骤为:按照浴比1∶10-12,在溢流常温染色机的缸中注入冷水,放入织物,运转20min后加入活性染料,运转20min后加入50%的元明粉,运转5min后加入剩余50%元明粉,运转15min后加入30%的纯碱,运转20min后加入剩余70%纯碱,运转5min后以3℃/min升温速率升温至60℃,保温60min后以2℃/min降温速率降温至45℃后直接排液;5min后注入冷水,洗涤10min后直接排液;5min后加入冰醋酸,运行10min后以3℃/min升温速率升温至50℃,加入皂洗酶,再以3.0℃/min升温速率升温至95℃,保温20min后以2℃/min降温速率降温至50℃后直接排液;室温下注入冷水,洗涤10min后排液;5min后再次室温下注入冷水,运转5min后放入柔软剂和固色剂,5min后直接升温至30℃,保温15min后直接排液。
9.如权利要求5所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述柔软拉幅定型工艺采用浸轧法,浸轧液采用浓度为35-45g/L的高弹力膨松剂硅油和浓度为65-55g/L的挺滑硅油,轧液率为65-75%;浸轧后用热风拉幅定型机对织物进行拉幅定型,拉幅定型温度为160-165℃,拉幅定型速度为18-20m/min,上下超喂量为30-35/0%,上下风量为60/70%,落机门幅为173-175cm,落机克重为155-160g/m2。
10.如权利要求5所述的高机号单面纬编织物,其特征在于,所述轧光工艺采用连续加压蒸呢机进行轧光,工艺参数为:车速13-16m/min,超喂量1-3%,烫轧温度125-135℃,整箱温度95-105℃。
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