CN107007492A - A kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof - Google Patents
A kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof Download PDFInfo
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- CN107007492A CN107007492A CN201710258305.6A CN201710258305A CN107007492A CN 107007492 A CN107007492 A CN 107007492A CN 201710258305 A CN201710258305 A CN 201710258305A CN 107007492 A CN107007492 A CN 107007492A
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/86—Polyethers
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/342—Alcohols having more than seven atoms in an unbroken chain
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/98—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
- A61K8/987—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin of species other than mammals or birds
- A61K8/988—Honey; Royal jelly, Propolis
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/14—Preparations for removing make-up
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
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Abstract
The invention discloses a kind of makeup remover, by weight, including following component:50 85 parts of grease;5 30 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/0.1 3 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;Glyceryl behenate/0.1 4 parts of 20 acid esters;0.1 5 parts of water;0.01 0.2 parts of antioxidant;0.01 0.2 parts of skin conditioning agent;0.01 1.0 parts of essence;0.001 2 parts of plant extraction liquid.The present invention is by the way that the acid esters of glyceryl behenate/20 of phytosterol/docosyl alcohol of certain content/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester, certain content is added in the Polyglycerol emulsifiers and grease of plant origin, there is provided has excellent moisturizing effect after use, but not it is greasy, and will not cause allergic and stimulate, there is thixotropy simultaneously, so as to provide the patch skin impression as the shusu unique when facial skin is massaged.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to cosmetic field, more particularly to a kind of makeup remover and preparation method thereof.
Background technology
Makeup remover is typically the oily flowable liquids mixed by grease and water bag emulsifying agent.The conventional oil of makeup remover
Ester refers generally to mineral oil, synthesis grease, cyclomethicone, dimethyl silicone polymer, vegetable oil and their mixture.
Emulsifying agent in makeup remover is often referred to polysorbas20, PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearates, PPG-26- butylol polyethers -26, PEG-40
Rilanit special, PEG-60 rilanit specials and their mixture.In makeup removing, a small amount of makeup remover is generally taken on palm, so
The cosmetic such as face, lip, eye region is applied to afterwards to be massaged.Makeup remover first with the similar characteristic mixed between grease,
Grease in oil-soluble film forming agent and pigment that dissolving color make-up is included, and the grease that human body skin is secreted, the action for passing through massage are helped
The pigment in color make-up is helped from being removed on skin and being blended in makeup remover, when massage cleans face after terminating using water, is contained in makeup remover
Some oil-water emulsifiers, can be formed easily in water rapidly in spontaneous emulsification when water is run into, through slight massage effect
In the mobility very strong oil-in-water emulsion that disperses so that the grease in the makeup remover that face is remained, grease and face that color make-up contains
Material, the grease of human body skin secretion is dispersed in rinse water and is removed in the lump, thus serves the effect of makeup removing and cleaning.
The emulsifying agent of " oil " and " profit two is molten " in makeup remover is the key of removal color make-up, utilizes basic " with oily molten oil "
Most grease class color make-up can be dissolved.However, grease used at present is Synthetic Oil and mineral oil, they are in dissolving
While color make-up, its powerful degreasing power will also result in dry skin, destroy the barrier function of skin.In addition, makeup remover makes
Emulsifying agent is generally the synthetic emulsifier containing EO groups, and such as isostearic acid of PEG-20 glycerine three often contains nitrosamine and two
Oxane equivalent risk material, there is certain excitant and anaphylaxis to skin.Further, present makeup remover is all the strong liquid of mobility
Oil, easily comes off when using from facial surface, causes to stain clothes and causes loss.
Therefore, develop a kind of makeup removing ability strong, there is moisten effect to skin, it is low using anaphylaxis using rear non-greasy,
The thixotropic makeup remover tool for having certain viscosity is of great significance.
The content of the invention
It is contemplated that providing a kind of makeup removing ability by force, there is moisten effect to skin, using rear non-greasy, allergy is used
Property is low, there is thixotropic makeup remover of certain viscosity.
Makeup remover of the present invention, by weight, including following component:
50-85 parts of grease;
5-30 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/0.1-3 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;
Glyceryl behenate/0.1-4 parts of 20 acid esters;
0.1-5 parts of water;
0.01-0.2 parts of antioxidant;
0.01-0.2 parts of skin conditioning agent;
0.01-1.0 parts of essence;
0.001-2 parts of plant extraction liquid.
Preferably, the makeup remover, by weight, including following component:
65-80 parts of grease;
15-25 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/0.5-2.5 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;
Glyceryl behenate/1.0-2.5 parts of 20 acid esters;
0.5-2 parts of water;
0.01-0.2 parts of antioxidant;
0.01-0.2 parts of skin conditioning agent;
0.01-1.0 parts of essence;
0.001-2 parts of plant extraction liquid.
It is highly preferred that the makeup remover, by weight, including following component:
75.77 parts of grease;
20 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/1.0 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;
Glyceryl behenate/1.5 parts of 20 acid esters;
1 part of water;
0.1 part of antioxidant;
0.01 part of skin conditioning agent;
0.6 part of essence;
0.02 part of plant extraction liquid.
Phytosterol/the docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester is by Pidolidone, laurate, plant steroid
Alcohol, 2- octyldodecanols, docosyl alcohol and vitamin E are through obtained by four-step reaction.Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/the octyl group prepared
Decyl alcohol lauroyl glutamate ester can effectively strengthen and rebuild the barrier function of skin surface, improve skin moisture content, reduction
Skin TEWL values.
Wherein, phytosterol is to be obtained from corn and soybean by physical purification, with being of high nutritive value, physiologically active
Strong the features such as.Phytosterol has good inoxidizability, has very high permeability to skin, can keep skin surface water
Part, promote skin metabolism, suppress scytitis, can anti-sunburn, skin aging.Octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester
It is a kind of whole plant acidic amino acid derivative(Carboxylic acid amide esters), with being constructed with ceramide identical, tabular liquid crystal structure can be formed
Make.Long-term use can improve the tabular liquid crystal configuration of cuticula, improve cuticlar water component, there is obvious suppression effect to TEWL
Really, so as to be obviously improved dermatoglyph, anti-aging effects.
Wherein, docosyl alcohol, as docosanol, the effect with good skin care are commonly used for profit in cosmetics
Skin agent and viscosity stabiliser.
The acid esters of the glyceryl behenate/20 is the oligoester being made up of behenic acid, arachic acid and last of the ten Heavenly stems glycerine;Fusing point
For 60-70 DEG C, with good treatability during fusing.Gelation efficiency is respectively provided with for the finish in extremely broad range, can
Being formed has thixotropic gel(Can be variant according to its different character that oil is planted).The acid esters of the glyceryl behenate/20
Thixotropic oleogel can be formed with grease, but this denseness is thixotropic, therefore the oil product that can solve commonly to remove ornaments and formal dress makes
Used time mobility is too strong, the problem of material body is easily dripped, while the patch as the shusu unique when facial skin is massaged can be provided
Skin is experienced.
The grease is oil-soluble grease, selected from hydro carbons, fatty alcohol, aliphatic acid, fatty acid ester, fatty alcohol ether, glyceride
One or more in class, silicone oil, silicon wax;Preferably cetanol ethylhexoate, rice bran oil, pentaerythrite four(Thylhexoic acid)
Ester, the heptanoate of neopentyl glycol two, jojoba seed oil, myristic acid, wheat-germ oil, pentaerythrite four(Thylhexoic acid)Ester, angle
It is one or more of in shark alkane.
The polyglycereol and aliphatic acid of the Polyglycerol emulsifiers are plant origins, fool proof to human body, biology drop
Solution property is good, can be used as food additives, while there is splendid performance of keeping humidity to skin.Selected from the oleate of polyglycereol -2, gather
It is the isostearate of glycerine -2, Natrulon H-10 linoleate, the isostearate of polyglycereol -2 three, the oleate of polyglycereol -4, poly-
The isostearate of glycerine -10, Natrulon H-10 oleate, Natrulon H-10 diisopstearate, the oleic acid of Natrulon H-10 three
Ester, the isostearate of Natrulon H-10 five, the oleate of Natrulon H-10 five, Natrulon H-10 dioleate, the sesquialter of polyglycereol -2
Caprylate, the laurate of polyglycereol -6, the myristinate of polyglycereol -6, Natrulon H-10 myristinate, polyglycereol -6 two
Decylate, the myristinate of Natrulon H-10 two, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, the oleate of polyglycereol -5
In one or more.Using plant origin Polyglycerol emulsifiers as makeup remover of the present invention surfactant, greatly
The excitant to skin is reduced, while significantly improving the moisture-retaining capacity of skin.
The one kind of the antioxidant in butylated hydroxytoluene, tertiary butylated hydroquinone, vitamin E, tocopherol acetate
Or several, preferably vitamin E/tocopherol;The skin conditioning agent is selected from bisabolol, fanesol, two(Lauramide
Glutamine)Sodium lysinate, propane diols, glycerine, butanediol, pentanediol, menthanol lactic acid ester, menthol, ascorbic acid four are different
One or more in palmitate.
The plant extraction liquid is selected from aloe barbadensis Miller(ALOE BARBADENSIS)Leaf extract, hamamelis
(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)Extract, glycyrrhiza glabra(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root extract, jujube(ZIZYPHUS
JUJUBA)Berry extract, Artemisia capillaris(ARTEMISIA CAPILLARIS)Flower extract, radix scutellariae(SCUTELLARIA
BAICALENSIS)Root extract, mulberry(MORUS ALBA)Root extract, purslane(PORTULACA OLERACEA)Extract,
Cynara scolymus(CYNARA SCOLYMUS)Leaf extract, satsuma orange(CITRUS UNSHIU)Pericarp extract, artemia(ARTEMIA)
Extract, trembling poplar(POPULUS TREMULOIDES)Bark extract, fragrant citrus(CITRUS JUNOS)Berry extract, Huang
Tiller(PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE)Bark extract, white willow(SALIX ALBA)Bark extract, white fungus(TREMELLA
FUCIFORMIS)Extract, soapberry(SAPINDUS MUKUROSSI)Pericarp extract, multiflora rose(ROSA
MULTIFLORA)Berry extract, rosemary(ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS)Leaf extract, emblic(PHYLLANTHUS
EMBLICA)Berry extract four-o'clock(MIRABILIS JALAPA)Extract, ginger(ZINGIBER OFFICINALE)Root is extracted
Thing, glycyrrhiza glabra(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root extract, starfish tap algae(CLADOSIPHON NOVAE-
CALEDONIAE)Extract, beet(BETA VULGARIS)Root extract, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA
RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, lichee(LITCHI CHINENSIS)Pericarp extract, common milfoil(ACHILLEA
MILLEFOLIUM)Extract, Crithmum maritimum(CRITHMUM MARITIMUM)Extract, northern sea-tangle(LAMINARIA
HYPERBOREA)Extract, Antarctic Continent clump stalk algae(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)Extract, Saponaria officinalis(SAPONARIA
OFFICINALIS)Extract, rye(SECALE CEREALE)Seed extract, Mel extract, golden yellow chamomile
(CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM)Extract, European horse-chestnut(AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM)It is seed extract, white
Flower yellow chamomile(ANTHEMIS NOBILIS)Flower extract, plum(PRUNUS MUME) berry extract, Cymbidium hookerianum(CYMBIDIUM
GRANDIFLORUM)Flower extract, Nasturtium officinale(NASTURTIUM OFFICINALE)Extract, chlorella(CHLORELLA
VULGARIS)Extract, pomegranate (PUNICA GRANATUM) berry extract, wedge base sea-tangle(LAMINARIA OCHROLEUCA)
Extract, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, great Hua cactuses(CEREUS
GRANDIFLORUS)Flower extract, daisy(BELLIS PERENNIS)One or more in flower extract.
The invention also discloses the preparation method of above-mentioned makeup remover, comprise the following steps:
Grease, Polyglycerol emulsifiers, phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester, glycerine are weighed according to proportioning
The acid esters of behenate/20, antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, mix at 70-75 DEG C and are sufficiently stirred for 5-10 minutes, until shape
Into the liquid of stable homogeneous, and cool to 50-55 DEG C under agitation, add the water weighed according to proportioning, essence, plant extract
Liquid, insulated and stirred 5-10 minutes, thermal-insulating filling produces makeup remover.
Compared with prior art, the present invention has following excellent effect:
The present invention by by phytosterol/docosyl alcohol of certain content/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester, certain content it is sweet
The acid esters of oily behenate/20 is added in the Polyglycerol emulsifiers and grease of plant origin, and is aided with the antioxygen of certain content
Agent, skin conditioning agent, water, essence, plant extraction liquid, by the coordinated of each component, have good makeup removing as overall
Effect can reach skin moisturizing degree and skin refreshing degree there is provided having excellent moisturizing effect but non-greasy after use
Balance, and will not cause allergic and stimulate, while have thixotropy, so as to provide the uniqueness when facial skin massage
Shusu as patch skin impression.
Embodiment
The present invention is further illustrated below by embodiment, following examples are the present invention preferably embodiment party
Formula, but embodiments of the present invention are not limited by following embodiments.
The raw material such as table 1 that embodiments of the invention and comparative example are used, but it is not limited only to these raw materials:
The stock chart of table 1
Embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2:The preparation of makeup remover
Proportioning according to table 2 weighs grease, Polyglycerol emulsifiers, phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate
The acid esters of ester, glyceryl behenate/20, antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, mix at 70-75 DEG C and are sufficiently stirred for 5-10 minutes,
Until forming the liquid of stable homogeneous, and cool to 50-55 DEG C under agitation, add according to table 2 match the water weighed, essence,
Plant extraction liquid, insulated and stirred 5-10 minutes, thermal-insulating filling produces makeup remover.
The embodiment 1-7 of table 2 and comparative example 1-2 each group distribution ratio(Parts by weight)
Preservation challenge test, sensitive skin test are carried out, using moist degree pair to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover
Tested than test, using rear fat content contrast test and thixotropy:
First, preservation challenge test is done to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover:It is satisfied by USP 32 and requires that product has good
Good antiseptic effect.
2nd, sensitive skin test is done to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover:
1)Test method and number:Cutaneous safety assessment is carried out using the test method of normal individual trial, the people of number 40 is tested.Its
The people of septum reset sensitivity skin quality is more than 30 people.
2)Subject selects:The healthy women subject at 18 to 35 years old ages;
3)Product application method and pot life:By product operation instruction, please first shaken up before use, the dry hand of this product, wet hand are all
It can be used, it is better under dry hand state.
【Removal eye lip Cosmetics】
Appropriate makeup remover is taken in cotton pads, is closed one's eyes, about 20 seconds are lightly spread at eye color make-up, from top to bottom wiped clean;
Appropriate makeup remover is taken in cotton pads, being lightly spread in lip about 10 seconds, from labial angle toward middle wiped clean.
【Removal face color make-up】
Appropriate makeup remover is taken in the centre of the palm;
Makeup remover is uniformly applied to face and neck, is softly massaged with finger pulp about 60 seconds, makeup remover is fully dissolved color make-up;
Both hands are bedewed with warm water, continue to massage about 30 seconds, until makeup remover emulsification completely is soft and smooth emulsion;
Face is rinsed well with a large amount of warm water;
With cotton pads Qing Shigan faces moisture, and check color make-up dirt whether removal is clean, without secondary cleaning.
4)Observing time:
Observe 4 weeks altogether.Subject is before research is included(0th day), the 14th day and face the 7th day after Clinical practice, after Clinical practice
The 28th day after bed use, 4 follow-ups have been carried out altogether.
5)Sensitiveness skin quality selection standard:
Subjective assessment:
Head examine day doctor to subject's recipient site to weather (cold and dry), skin care product, cleaning agent, textile and
The sensitiveness of abrasive articles is scored respectively:0 point is insensitive;1 point is sometimes sensitive;2 points are sensitivity;5 are commented
Split-phase adds, and it is sensitive that total score, which is more than 4 points of persons,.
For example:Patient's A readmes are insensitive to weather(0 point), it is sometimes sensitive to skin care product(1 point), it is quick to cleaning agent
Sense(2 points), it is sometimes sensitive to textile(1 point), it is sometimes sensitive to abrasive articles(1 point);Five additions:0+1+2+1+1=5 point,
Therefore, it is determined that being sensitive.
Lactic acid irritant test:
Selection semar technique is tested, and 10% lactic acid is applied into nasolabial groove and any side cheek at room temperature, respectively 2.5
And 5 minutes sensitivity responses to subject carry out 4 grades of evaluations, then will score addition twice, and it is sensitiveness skin that score value, which is more than 3,
Skin.
0 point is without shouting pain;1 point is slight shouting pain;2 points are moderate shouting pain;3 points are severe shouting pain
Subjective assessment is more than 4 points or lactic acid irritant test is positive, all can determine that as sensitive.
6)Safety evaluation:
By normal individual trial experiment come viewing test product to human body skin security, especially to face skin sensitive subjects.By
When examination person pays a return visit, any adverse events that subject occurs during test products are used carefully are inquired, checked and record, are wrapped
Include the performances of adverse events, time of origin, treatment measures and lapse to, and to adverse events with made and sentencing using the relation of product
It is disconnected.
The adverse events order of severity is judged by following grade III Standard:
Slightly-subject can stand, and be not required to especially processing, the normal life of subject is not influenceed;
Moderate-subject is difficult to stand, it is necessary to disable product or do specially treated, influences the normal life of subject;
Severe-obstruction normal life, product need to be disabled immediately or do emergent management.
The versions in 2015 that skin adverse reaction classification is issued according to the Ministry of Public Health《Cosmetics safety technical specification》Specified in
Normal individual trial tests skin adverse reaction grade scale to judge:
0 grade(Dermoanergy);
1 grade(There is faint erythema in skin);
2 grades(There is erythema, infiltration and papule in skin);
3 grades(There is erythema, oedema, papule and blister in skin);
4 grades(There is erythema, oedema and bleb in skin)
Adverse events and the criterion of test products relation:
A is certainly reasonable using test products and reacting generating time order, stops using test products reaction stopping, or subtract rapidly
Light or improvement, reuses test products reaction reproduction, while have documents and materials evidence, and except other Confounding Factors influence;
B is reasonable most likely with test products and reacting generating time order, stops using test products reaction stopping, or rapidly
Mitigate or take a turn for the better, other factorses influence can be excluded substantially;
C may use test products and reacting generating time in close relations, but cause the product more than one of adverse reaction, or have
Other factorses can not be excluded;
The possible unrelated use test products of D and adverse reaction occur, far, reaction performance and the known cosmetic of time
The adverse reaction of product is misfitted;
E data to be evaluated is not complete, is revalued after waiting updates, or causality is difficult to come to a conclusion, and lacks documents and materials evidence;
F can not evaluate lacuna too much, and causality is difficult to come to a conclusion, and data can not be supplemented.
7)Test result:
Subject's ordinary circumstance:The age of selected subject between 20 years old to 34 years old, is selected in 40 subjects, wherein women altogether
40 people, the people of male 0, average age 24.98 years old, complete cost study.In selected subject, it is sensitiveness skin to have 30 people,
Wherein 3 points of persons of lactic acid irritant test score value > are 30 people, and 7 people have using cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis history, and 7 people are to daily cleaning product
Sensitivity, 4 people are sensitive to climate change or Exposure to Sunlight, and 7 people are to containing wool, cotton, and the clothing such as terylene is sensitive, and 4 people are to abrasive articles
Sensitivity, 0 people is sensitive to metal objects.
Safety evaluation:40 subjects(The wherein sensitive people of skin person 30)Normal individual trial experimental study in 4 weeks, without it is any not
Good reaction.Product is suitable to sensitive skin.
3rd, to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover, and certain extraordinary commercially available makeup remover product F XXXX of sales volume
FC is carried out using moist degree and fat content contrast test:
Pilot project:
Skin moisture content measuring(Moisture of skin tester Corneometer CM825 are used to detect that keratoderma is aqueous
Amount.Corneometer values are higher, illustrate that keratoderma water content is higher);
Percutaneous water loss test(Skin water loss test probe Tewameter TM300 are used to detect skin through epidermis
Percentage of water loss.TEWL values are higher, illustrate that skin barrier function is poorer);
Skin oil and fat content measuring(Skin oil and fat content measuring probe Sebumeter, for detecting that the grease of skin surface contains
Amount.Moisture of skin is easy to run off when skin oil and fat content is too low, and skin can feel greasy uncomfortable during skin oil and fat too high levels);
Experimental condition:
1)Subject characteristics:30;
2)Recipient site:Surveyed in the forearm of left and right;
Test environment:20 DEG C~25 DEG C of temperature, humidity 45% ~ 65%.
3)Conceptual design:
( 1)First have to clean test position with clear water;
( 2)Sat quietly in constant-temperature constant-humidity environment 30 minutes, skin is reached a poised state;
( 3)To the first blank testing value in different 3cm × 3cm regions, then correspond to and smear test sample, 0.2g amounts are in regulation area
In domain, massaged in the way of looping after 30 seconds, plus the emulsification of 0.2 clear water is massaged 30 seconds;
( 4)Rinsed well, wiped with cotton pads with clear water;
( 5)By testing time section test data, and make a record;
4)Result of the test
( 1)Water content is tested
The subjects skin's water content test data record sheet (temperature of table 3:20.1 DEG C humidity:58%)
( 2)Percutaneous water loss test
The percutaneous water loss test data record sheet (temperature of the subject of table 4:20.1 DEG C humidity:58%)
( 3)Skin oil and fat content measuring
The subjects skin's fat content test data record sheet (temperature of table 5:20.1 DEG C humidity:58%)
From the comparison of the experimental data of table 3- tables 5:
1. after using the makeup remover of embodiment 1 and FXXXX FC makeup removers, according to data above it can be found that using embodiment 1
The moisture content of skin of makeup remover is slightly above the skin using FXXXX FC makeup removers, and the percutaneous water loss of skin is also slightly good
In using the skin after FXXXX FC makeup removers, in summary, the makeup remover moistening effect of embodiment 1 is better than FXXXX FC and unloaded
Adornment oil.
2. after the makeup remover using embodiment 1-7, moisture content of skin is in normal level after testing, and moisture of skin scatters and disappears
TEWL values are normal or health, normal using rear skin oil and fat content separately from the point of view of fat content data, in summary, are made
After makeup remover with embodiment 1-7, skin moisturizing but non-greasy can reach the balance of skin moisturizing degree and skin refreshing degree,
Meet demand of most consumers to oil product of removing ornaments and formal dress.
3. after comparative example 1-2 makeup remover, from data, this two makeup remover can not reach skin moisturizing degree with
And the balance of skin refreshing degree.Wherein comparative example 1 is but partially greasy using rear skin moisturizing, and the grease of comparative example 2 is moderate but to be dried partially,
This two makeup remover use feeling is poor, it is impossible to meet use requirement of the consumer to oil product of removing ornaments and formal dress.
In summary, embodiment 1-7 makeup remover, moistens but non-greasy after use, can reach skin moisturizing degree and skin
The balance that skin is clearly spent, meets demand of most consumers to oil product of removing ornaments and formal dress.
4th, to embodiment 1-7 and comparative example 1-2 makeup remover, and certain extraordinary commercially available makeup removing oil product of sales volume
FXXXX FC carry out thixotropy test:
Use instrument:NDJ-1 type viscosimeters
Conceptual design:Sample is taken, respectively using No. 4 rotors, and different rotating speeds is adjusted, 1 point is being started using code by viscosimeter
Its viscosity data is read after clock;
Result of the test is as follows:
The sample of table 6 and certain extraordinary commercially available makeup remover product F XXXX FC viscosity tests data logger (material body of sales volume
Temperature: 20.1℃)
From the comparison of the experimental data of table 6:
Embodiment 1-7 sample itselfs have certain viscosity, and more obvious than commercially available product higher, and patch skin is stronger when using, and is more convenient for making
With;Sample is using same rotor, but during different rotating speeds, viscosity is rendered obvious by the lower trend of the bigger viscosity of rotating speed, and material body has
Obvious thixotropy, through massaging viscosity reduction when using, while the patch skin impression as shusu can be provided.
Claims (10)
1. a kind of makeup remover, it is characterised in that by weight, including following component:
50-85 parts of grease;
5-30 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/0.1-3 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;
Glyceryl behenate/0.1-4 parts of 20 acid esters;
0.1-5 parts of water;
0.01-0.2 parts of antioxidant;
0.01-0.2 parts of skin conditioning agent;
0.01-1.0 parts of essence;
0.001-2 parts of plant extraction liquid.
2. makeup remover according to claim 1, it is characterised in that the makeup remover, by weight, including following component:
65-80 parts of grease;
15-25 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/0.5-2.5 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;
Glyceryl behenate/1.0-2.5 parts of 20 acid esters;
0.5-2 parts of water;
0.01-0.2 parts of antioxidant;
0.01-0.2 parts of skin conditioning agent;
0.01-1.0 parts of essence;
0.001-2 parts of plant extraction liquid.
3. makeup remover according to claim 2, it is characterised in that the makeup remover, by weight, including following component:
75.77 parts of grease;
20 parts of Polyglycerol emulsifiers;
Phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/1.0 parts of octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester;
Glyceryl behenate/1.5 parts of 20 acid esters;
1 part of water;
0.1 part of antioxidant;
0.01 part of skin conditioning agent;
0.6 part of essence;
0.02 part of plant extraction liquid.
4. the makeup remover according to claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl group last of the ten Heavenly stems
Alcohol lauroyl glutamate ester is through four by Pidolidone, laurate, phytosterol, 2- octyldodecanols, docosyl alcohol and vitamin E
Step reaction gained.
5. the makeup remover according to claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the acid esters of the glyceryl behenate/20
It is the oligoester being made up of behenic acid, arachic acid and last of the ten Heavenly stems glycerine;Fusing point is 60-70 DEG C.
6. the makeup remover according to claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the grease is oil-soluble grease, is selected from
One or more in hydro carbons, fatty alcohol, aliphatic acid, fatty acid ester, fatty alcohol ether, glyceride type, silicone oil, silicon wax;Preferably
Cetanol ethylhexoate, rice bran oil, pentaerythrite four(Thylhexoic acid)Ester, the heptanoate of neopentyl glycol two, jojoba seed oil, meat
Myristic acid, wheat-germ oil, pentaerythrite four(Thylhexoic acid)It is one or more of in ester, saualane.
7. the makeup remover according to claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the Polyglycerol emulsifiers are selected from poly- sweet
It is oily -2 oleates, the isostearate of polyglycereol -2, Natrulon H-10 linoleate, the isostearate of polyglycereol -2 three, poly- sweet
It is oily -4 oleates, Natrulon H-10 isostearate, Natrulon H-10 oleate, Natrulon H-10 diisopstearate, poly- sweet
Oily -10 trioleates, the isostearate of Natrulon H-10 five, the oleate of Natrulon H-10 five, Natrulon H-10 dioleate,
The sesquialter of polyglycereol -2 caprylate, the laurate of polyglycereol -6, the myristinate of polyglycereol -6, Natrulon H-10 myristic acid
It is ester, the dicaprate of polyglycereol -6, the myristinate of Natrulon H-10 two, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, the caprylate of polyglycereol -6, poly-
One or more in the oleate of glycerine -5.
8. the makeup remover according to claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the antioxidant is selected from butylhydroxy first
One or more in benzene, tertiary butylated hydroquinone, vitamin E, tocopherol acetate, preferably vitamin E/tocopherol;The skin
Skin conditioner is selected from bisabolol, fanesol, two(Lauramide glutamine)Sodium lysinate, propane diols, glycerine, fourth two
One or more in alcohol, pentanediol, menthanol lactic acid ester, menthol, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate.
9. the makeup remover according to claim any one of 1-3, it is characterised in that the plant extraction liquid is selected from Curacao reed
Luxuriant growth(ALOE BARBADENSIS)Leaf extract, hamamelis(HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA)Extract, glycyrrhiza glabra
(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root extract, jujube(ZIZYPHUS JUJUBA)Berry extract, Artemisia capillaris(ARTEMISIA
CAPILLARIS)Flower extract, radix scutellariae(SCUTELLARIA BAICALENSIS)Root extract, mulberry(MORUS ALBA)Root is carried
Take thing, purslane(PORTULACA OLERACEA)Extract, cynara scolymus(CYNARA SCOLYMUS)Leaf extract, satsuma orange
(CITRUS UNSHIU)Pericarp extract, artemia(ARTEMIA)Extract, trembling poplar(POPULUS TREMULOIDES)Tree
Bark extract, fragrant citrus(CITRUS JUNOS)Berry extract, amur cork tree(PHELLODENDRON AMURENSE)It is bark extract, white
Willow(SALIX ALBA)Bark extract, white fungus(TREMELLA FUCIFORMIS)Extract, soapberry(SAPINDUS
MUKUROSSI)Pericarp extract, multiflora rose(ROSA MULTIFLORA)Berry extract, rosemary(ROSMARINUS
OFFICINALIS)Leaf extract, emblic(PHYLLANTHUS EMBLICA)Berry extract four-o'clock(MIRABILIS
JALAPA)Extract, ginger(ZINGIBER OFFICINALE)Root extract, glycyrrhiza glabra(GLYCYRRHIZA GLABRA)Root
Extract, starfish tap algae(CLADOSIPHON NOVAE-CALEDONIAE)Extract, beet(BETA VULGARIS)Root is carried
Take thing, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, lichee(LITCHI CHINENSIS)Pericarp is extracted
Thing, common milfoil(ACHILLEA MILLEFOLIUM)Extract, Crithmum maritimum(CRITHMUM MARITIMUM)Extract, north sea
Band(LAMINARIA HYPERBOREA)Extract, Antarctic Continent clump stalk algae(DURVILLEA ANTARTICA)Extract, Saponaria officinalis
(SAPONARIA OFFICINALIS)Extract, rye(SECALE CEREALE)Seed extract, Mel extract, golden yellow ocean
Camomile(CHRYSANTHELLUM INDICUM)Extract, European horse-chestnut(AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM)Seed is extracted
Thing, Roman chamomile(ANTHEMIS NOBILIS)Flower extract, plum(PRUNUS MUME) berry extract, Cymbidium hookerianum
(CYMBIDIUM GRANDIFLORUM)Flower extract, Nasturtium officinale(NASTURTIUM OFFICINALE)Extract, chlorella
(CHLORELLA VULGARIS)Extract, pomegranate (PUNICA GRANATUM) berry extract, wedge base sea-tangle(LAMINARIA
OCHROLEUCA)Extract, Balkan lettuce tongue(HABERLEA RHODOPENSIS)Leaf extract, great Hua cactuses(CEREUS
GRANDIFLORUS)Flower extract, daisy(BELLIS PERENNIS)One or more in flower extract.
10. the preparation method of a kind of makeup remover as described in claim any one of 1-9, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps:
Grease, Polyglycerol emulsifiers, phytosterol/docosyl alcohol/octyl decanol lauroyl glutamate ester, glycerine are weighed according to proportioning
The acid esters of behenate/20, antioxidant, skin conditioning agent, mix at 70-75 DEG C and are sufficiently stirred for 5-10 minutes, until shape
Into the liquid of stable homogeneous, and cool to 50-55 DEG C under agitation, add the water weighed according to proportioning, essence, plant extract
Liquid, insulated and stirred 5-10 minutes, thermal-insulating filling produces makeup remover.
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