CN106939515B - 一种牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺及高效丝光渗透剂的制备 - Google Patents
一种牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺及高效丝光渗透剂的制备 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺及高效丝光渗透剂的制备，其特征在于，在牛仔面料生产的前道工序中，将整经后的经纱制成束经，每束卷绕在一个经轴上制备成球经；不经精炼工序，直接对球经进行丝光整理，丝光处理后不经染色前浸轧碱液工序，直接进行球经染色。本发明的生产工艺，将传统牛仔面料后丝光整理改进为在前道工序中预先对经纱进行丝光处理，在保证牛仔面料生产质量的前提下，省去了2道染整加工工序，丝光效果更好、染色后纱线表面光泽好，色光均匀，且适用节能减排清洁生产。
Description
技术领域：
本发明涉及一种牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺及高效丝光渗透剂的制备，属于纺织染整技术领域。
背景技术：
自美国发明牛仔服装以来，牛仔以其粗犷、豪放、潇洒、大方、自然的风格和结构紧密厚实、穿着柔软舒适、质地坚固耐磨的特点，为广大青少年及众多消费者所喜爱，成为世界服装业史上最成功和最广为人知的服装产品，在国际纺织品市场上占有十分巨大的市场份额。牛仔行业产品正向高档化、个性化、功能化、时尚化方向发展。
近年来，人们发现牛仔布经过丝光整理后布面手感舒适、光泽较好、鲜明的磨白效果和清晰的布面风格，赋予了牛仔面料高附加值，是高档牛仔服装的首选面料。但是在牛仔面料生产过程中一般是经轴染色上浆后再与纬纱进行织造，后进行丝光整理。因常规牛仔面料一般使用靛蓝染料染色，而靛蓝染料牢度较差，后丝光整理会使布面染好的颜色变浅，浪费染料且对色不易控制，丝光液因含有颜色不能再回收利用，有色废水排放量增大，不利于节能减排清洁生产。且现有牛仔面料丝光整理技术中，需添加一定量的渗透剂。目前使用的磷酸酯类的耐碱渗透剂因还有磷的成分，在当前环保要求下其应用受到了限制；还有些渗透剂因丝光液中含有高浓度的碱，短时间内渗透效果不佳，使得丝光后面料光泽度和柔软度不理想，且颜色不均匀出现色差，影响牛仔面料质量。
发明内容：
针对上述现有技术存在的问题，本发明的第一方面目的在于提供一种丝光效果良好、染色后纱线表面光泽好，色光均匀，且适用节能减排清洁生产的牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺。
为了实现上述目的，本发明采用的技术方案为：
一种牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺，其特征在于，在牛仔面料生产的前道工序中，将整经后的经纱制成束经，每束卷绕在一个经轴上制备成球经；不经精炼工序，直接对球经进行丝光整理，丝光处理后不经染色前浸轧碱液工序，即直接进行球经染色。
本发明的生产工艺，将传统牛仔面料后丝光整理改进为在前道工序中预先对经纱进行丝光处理，后进行染色，织造。在保证牛仔面料生产质量的前提下，省去了2道染整加工工序，其中：在前道工序中，将整经后的经纱制成束经，每束卷绕在一个经轴上制备成球经，直接对球经进行丝光整理，省去了传统的精炼工序；经丝光处理后，直接进行经轴染色工序，经多道氧化工序完成球经染色，再经织造成成品，后道省去了传统的染色前浸轧碱液工序。同时，节省了很大一部分染料和助剂的使用，减少了废水的排放，达到节能减排的目的，有效降低了生产成本。
改进后的牛仔面料的生产工艺过程如下：纱线——整经——球经——丝光——染色——分纱——上浆——织造——-烧毛——酶退浆——后整理——成品。
作为进一步的设置：
本发明所述的球经纱线规格涉及10s、12s、16s的全棉，棉/粘80/20，棉/天丝80/20、70/30、60/40等；
所述的每个球经束纱含有400-500根经纱；
所述的球经丝光工艺配方为：
本发明的第二方面目的在于，提供一种适用上述球经丝光工艺的高效丝光渗透剂，改善纱线丝光效果，提高面料质量。
一种高效丝光渗透剂，包括按重量百分比计的下述组成：
一种高效丝光渗透剂的制备方法，其特征在于，包括以下步骤：
一种高效丝光渗透剂的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)准确称取重量份的异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚置于完全干燥的带有温度计的三口烧瓶中；
(2)装上搅拌装置，启动搅拌器，搅拌均匀后开始升温至100-160℃，再逐滴加入计量好的氨基磺酸，恒温反应120min；
(3)反应后将体系降温到50℃加入一定量的乙二醇丁醚和十二烷基磺酸钠搅拌30min；
(4)将体系温度降至室温，加入量好的去离子水高速搅拌30min后出料。
本发明的有益效果在于：
1、本发明在传统牛仔布生产工艺的基础上，采用新型加工技术，在前道工序中对球经进行丝光，经染色后色泽鲜艳度、深度较常规纱线要好得多。织造的面料具有较好的光泽、鲜明的磨白效果、清晰的布面风格和舒适的手感。牛仔纱线丝光与牛仔面料后丝光整理相比较，成品质量相接近，属中高档面料，提高了附加值；且球经丝光较传统牛仔面料加工工艺省去了一道精炼工序和一道染色前浸碱工序，使得一次对色成功率提高，节省了染料和助剂，染色前球经丝光后残液中不含染料，可回收利用，减少了废水排放量，降低了生产成本,有利于节能减排清洁生产。
2、本发明还提供了一种新型制备的高效丝光渗透剂，替代了磷酸酯类耐碱型渗透剂，耐高浓度碱液性能良好，使碱液的表面张力降低，促进碱液的渗透，使丝光作用均匀，缩短丝光的时间。在生产中球经浸轧碱液后能够在短时间内快速向纱线内部渗透，提高了生产速度，且丝光效果良好，经染色后纱线表面光泽好，色光不匀率减少，提高了成品面料的质量稳定性。
下面结合具体实施方式对本发明作进一步的详细说明，但本发明的保护范围不限于此。
具体实施方式：
实施例1：
将16s棉/天丝70/30纱线通过整经卷绕在经轴上，将经轴上的纱线施加一定张力制成束纱，每个束纱含有400-500根纱线，后将每个束纱卷绕在一个经轴上制备成球经，将12-25个球经上的束纱整体排列，同时喂入导纱辊，直接对球经进行丝光整理，后进行经轴染色工序，经多道氧化工序最终完成球经染色。
上述方案中球经丝光工艺配方为：
上述方案中的高效丝光渗透剂的制备方法为：
准确称取30g异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚置于完全干燥的带有温度计的三口烧瓶中；装上搅拌装置，启动搅拌器，搅拌度为,800r/min，搅拌均匀后开始升温至100-160℃，再逐滴加入25g的氨基磺酸，恒温反应120min；反应后将体系降温到50℃加入5.5g乙二醇丁醚和6.5g十二烷基磺酸钠搅30min；
将体系温度降至室温，加入33g去离子水高速搅拌30min后出料。
性能检测：
分别对上述经过球经丝光的实施例，与未经过丝光整理的纱线进行对比，对比结果如表1所示。
表1、各项性能测试结果：
从表1可以看出：
添加的高效丝光渗透剂能够在8s内快速向纱线内部渗透，经过丝光的16s棉/天丝70/30，丝光钡值达136％，获得较好的光泽，经染色后色泽鲜艳度、深度较常规纱线要好得多。织造的牛仔面料获得较好的光泽、鲜明的磨白效果、清晰的布面风格和舒适的手感。
实施例2：
将12s棉/粘80/20纱线通过整经卷绕在经轴上，将经轴上的纱线施加一定的张力制成束纱，每个束纱含有400-500根纱线，后将每个束纱卷绕在一个经轴上制备成球经，将12-25个球经上的束纱整体排列，同时喂入导纱辊，直接对球经进行丝光整理，后进行经轴染色工序，经多道氧化工序最终完成球经染色。
上述方案中球经丝光工艺配方为：
上述方案中的高效丝光渗透剂的制备方法为：
准确称取36g异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚置于完全干燥的带有温度计的三口烧瓶中；装上搅拌装置，启动搅拌器，搅拌度为,800r/min，搅拌均匀后开始升温至100-160℃，再逐滴加入28g的氨基磺酸，恒温反应120min；反应后将体系降温到50℃加入6.5g乙二醇丁醚和7g十二烷基磺酸钠搅拌30min；
将体系温度降至室温，加入22.5g去离子水高速搅拌30min后出料。
性能检测：
分别将上述经过丝光的实施例，与未经过丝光处整理的纱线进行对比，对比结果如表2所示。
表2各项性能测试结果：
从表2可以看出：
添加的高效丝光渗透剂能够在10s内快速向纱线内部渗透，经过球经丝光的16s棉/粘80/20，丝光钡值达118％，获得较好的光泽，经染色后色泽鲜艳度、深度较常规纱线要好得多。织造的牛仔面料获得较好的光泽、鲜明的磨白效果、清晰的布面风格和舒适的手感。
显然，本发明的上述实施例仅为清楚地说明本发明所做的举例，并非对本发明实施方式的限定。对于所属领域的普通技术人员来说，在上述说明的基础上还可以做出其他不同形式的变化或变动。这里无法对所有的实施方式予以穷举。凡是属于本发明的技术方案所引伸出的显而易见的变化或变动仍处于本发明的保护范围之列。
Claims (3)
1.一种牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺，其特征在于：将16s棉/天丝70/30纱线通过整经卷绕在经轴上，将经轴上的纱线施加一定张力制成束纱，每个束纱含有400-500根纱线，后将每个束纱卷绕在一个经轴上制备成球经，将12-25个球经上的束纱整体排列，同时喂入导纱辊，直接对球经进行丝光整理，后进行经轴染色工序，经多道氧化工序最终完成球经染色；
上述方案中球经丝光工艺配方为：
上述方案中的高效丝光渗透剂的制备方法为：
准确称取30g异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚置于完全干燥的带有温度计的三口烧瓶中；装上搅拌装置，启动搅拌器，搅拌速度为800r/min，搅拌均匀后开始升温至100-160℃，再逐滴加入25g的氨基磺酸，恒温反应120min；反应后将体系降温到50℃加入5.5g乙二醇丁醚和6.5g十二烷基磺酸钠搅拌30min；将体系温度降至室温，加入33g去离子水高速搅拌30min后出料。
2.一种牛仔面料生产中球经丝光工艺，其特征在于：12s棉/粘80/20纱线通过整经卷绕在经轴上，将经轴上的纱线施加一定的张力制成束纱，每个束纱含有400-500根纱线，后将每个束纱卷绕在一个经轴上制备成球经，将12-25个球经上的束纱整体排列，同时喂入导纱辊，直接对球经进行丝光整理，后进行经轴染色工序，经多道氧化工序最终完成球经染色；
上述方案中球经丝光工艺配方为：
上述方案中的高效丝光渗透剂的制备方法为：
准确称取36g异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚置于完全干燥的带有温度计的三口烧瓶中；装上搅拌装置，启动搅拌器，搅拌速度为800r/min，搅拌均匀后开始升温至100-160℃，再逐滴加入28g的氨基磺酸，恒温反应120min；反应后将体系降温到50℃加入6.5g乙二醇丁醚和7g十二烷基磺酸钠搅拌30min；将体系温度降至室温，加入22.5g去离子水高速搅拌30min后出料。
3.一种高效丝光渗透剂，其特征在于：包括按重量百分比的下述组成：
所述高效丝光渗透剂的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)准确称取重量份的异构十三醇聚氧乙烯醚置于完全干燥的带有温度计的三口烧瓶中；
(2)装上搅拌装置，启动搅拌器，搅拌均匀后开始升温至100-160℃，再逐滴加入计量好的氨基磺酸，恒温反应120min；
(3)反应后将体系降温到50℃加入乙二醇丁醚和十二烷基磺酸钠搅拌30min；
(4)将体系温度降至室温，加入去离子水高速搅拌30min后出料。
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