CN106012552B - 丝麻交织面料 - Google Patents

丝麻交织面料 Download PDF

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CN106012552B
CN106012552B CN201610609236.4A CN201610609236A CN106012552B CN 106012552 B CN106012552 B CN 106012552B CN 201610609236 A CN201610609236 A CN 201610609236A CN 106012552 B CN106012552 B CN 106012552B
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fabric
softening agent
concise
silk
polyoxyethylene ether
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CN106012552A (zh
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李水云
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Hangzhou All Hang Garments Co Ltd
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D06M16/003—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic with enzymes or microorganisms
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    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B15/00—Removing liquids, gases or vapours from textile materials in association with treatment of the materials by liquids, gases or vapours
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B3/00—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating
    • D06B3/10—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics
    • D06B3/18—Passing of textile materials through liquids, gases or vapours to effect treatment, e.g. washing, dyeing, bleaching, sizing, impregnating of fabrics combined with squeezing, e.g. in padding machines
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06C—FINISHING, DRESSING, TENTERING OR STRETCHING TEXTILE FABRICS
    • D06C9/00—Singeing
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
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    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
    • D06M11/83—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising with metals; with metal-generating compounds, e.g. metal carbonyls; Reduction of metal compounds on textiles
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/10—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with compounds containing oxygen
    • D06M13/184—Carboxylic acids; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D06M13/207—Substituted carboxylic acids, e.g. by hydroxy or keto groups; Anhydrides, halides or salts thereof
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M13/50—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with organometallic compounds; with organic compounds containing boron, silicon, selenium or tellurium atoms
    • D06M13/51—Compounds with at least one carbon-metal or carbon-boron, carbon-silicon, carbon-selenium, or carbon-tellurium bond
    • D06M13/513—Compounds with at least one carbon-metal or carbon-boron, carbon-silicon, carbon-selenium, or carbon-tellurium bond with at least one carbon-silicon bond
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    • D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
    • D06M15/19—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment with synthetic macromolecular compounds
    • D06M15/37—Macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • D06M15/53—Polyethers
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    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M16/00—Biochemical treatment of fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, e.g. enzymatic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/04—Vegetal fibres
    • D06M2101/06—Vegetal fibres cellulosic
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
    • D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
    • D06M2101/02—Natural fibres, other than mineral fibres
    • D06M2101/10—Animal fibres
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
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    • D06M2200/00—Functionality of the treatment composition and/or properties imparted to the textile material
    • D06M2200/50—Modified hand or grip properties; Softening compositions

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  • Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Organic Chemistry (AREA)
  • Treatments For Attaching Organic Compounds To Fibrous Goods (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

本发明公开了一种丝麻交织面料，其以桑蚕丝为经纱、苎麻为纬纱交织而成，且其按如下方法依次处理：A、烧毛：取坯布，以50‑55m/min速度进行烧毛处理；B、精练：在45‑50℃下，于0.8‑1.1g/l的精练液中二浸二轧，水洗，烘干；精练剂由70‑77wt%的果胶酶和23‑30wt%的聚氧乙烯醚组成，精练时间为30‑45min且浴比1：18‑21；C、整理：在25‑30℃下，于8‑11g/l的柔软液中二浸二轧，柔软剂包括聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸，整理时间为2‑10min且浴比1：18‑21；D、干燥：于45‑50℃下烘至干燥，然后在125‑130℃下焙烘1‑2min；具有提高强度的效果。

Description

丝麻交织面料
技术领域
本发明涉及一种丝麻交织面料。
背景技术
丝麻交织面料，即丝/麻交织面料，是以桑蚕丝为经纱、苎麻为纬纱交织而成的一种面料。丝麻交织面料，既具有麻织物挺括凉爽的风格，又有丝绸般的光泽，是高档的夏季服装面料。但是，因为苎麻纤维结晶度高，刚性大，造成丝麻交织物手感粗糙并有刺痒感。
黄翠蓉在《丝/麻交织物的抗皱柔软整理》(摘自《丝绸》2002年第6期P18-19页)中提出了一种丝/麻交织物的抗皱柔软整理，该整理工艺包括如下步骤：洗涤(皂粉20g/l，浴比1:20，30min)→浸轧整理液(二浸二轧，30-40℃浸5min，布速40-70m/min，轧余率80％，浴比1:20)→预烘(80℃烘至干燥)→烘培(150℃烘5min)，且整理液的配方为：2D树脂+水溶性聚氨酯WPU、催化剂10g/l、氨基硅乳液25g/l、MgCl2用量20g/l。
现有技术的不足之处在于，经上述方式处理后，丝麻交织物的强度下降。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种丝麻交织面料，其解决了强度下降的问题，具有提高强度的效果。
本发明的上述技术目的是通过以下技术方案得以实现的：
一种丝麻交织面料，其以桑蚕丝为经纱、苎麻为纬纱交织而成，所述丝麻交织面料按如下方法依次进行处理：
A、烧毛：取检验合格的坯布，以50-55m/min速度进行烧毛处理；
B、精练：将烧毛后的坯布在45-50℃的精练液中二浸二轧，水洗，烘干；其中，精练液中精练剂的浓度为0.8-1.1g/l且精练剂由70-77wt％的果胶酶和23-30wt％的聚氧乙烯醚组成，精练时间为30-45min且浴比1：18-21；
C、整理：将精练后的坯布在25-30℃的柔软液中二浸二轧；其中，柔软液中柔软剂的浓度为8-11g/l，柔软剂包括聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸且所述聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸的质量比为4-7：12-16：1，整理时间为2-10min且浴比1：18-21；
D、干燥：将整理后的坯布于45-50℃下烘至干燥，然后在125-130℃下焙烘1-2min。
采用上述技术方案，果胶酶是指分解果胶质的酶类，其与聚氧乙烯醚组成本申请的精练剂，聚氧乙烯醚能降低表面张力并促进果胶酶、聚氧乙烯醚和坯布表面的杂质结合，同时在45-50℃且浴比1：18-21时本申请的精练剂还能对坯布内的杂质进行清洗，进一步去除杂质；聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸组成的柔软液，使得坯布能溶胀在其内，同时对坯布表面和内部结构进行变动，提高伸长和弯曲强度，同时保持较好的面料强度。
进一步优选为：所述精练剂的浓度为1.0g/l且精练剂由75wt％的果胶酶和25wt％的聚氧乙烯醚组成。
采用上述技术方案，还能进一步改善体感，即手感柔软，无刺痒感，具有较好的抗敏感作用。
进一步优选为：所述柔软液中柔软剂的浓度为10g/l，所述柔软剂包括聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸且所述聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸的质量比为5：14：1。
采用上述技术方案，还能进一步改善体感，即手感柔软，无刺痒感，具有较好的抗敏感作用。
进一步优选为：所述柔软剂还包括纳米银，所述纳米银和柠檬酸的质量比为0.05-0.1：1。
采用上述技术方案，纳米银具有较好的抗菌性，而将纳米银置于柔软液中并经整理过程与面料作用，整理过程中纳米银与进入面料内部，其结合力强，随着水洗次数的增加，仍能保持较高的抑菌率。
综上所述，本发明具有以下有益效果：
1、本申请的伸长有了较大提高，弯曲刚度也大幅下降，面料手感变得柔软，与皮肤接触后无刺痒感；本申请的丝麻交织面料的剪切刚度下降不大，仍能保持较好的面料强度；2、本申请的抑菌率高，且其随着水洗次数的增加，仍能保持较高的抑菌率。
具体实施方式
本具体实施例仅仅是对本发明的解释，其并不是对本发明的限制，本领域技术人员在阅读完本说明书后可以根据需要对本实施例做出没有创造性贡献的修改，但只要在本发明的权利要求范围内都受到专利法的保护。
实施例1-5：丝麻交织面料，选用以桑蚕丝为经纱、苎麻为纬纱交织而成且桑蚕丝纤度44dtex(40D)、苎麻纱278dtex(36Nm)的交织物为坯布，丝麻交织面料按如下方法依次进行处理：
A、烧毛：取检验合格的坯布，以50-55m/min速度进行烧毛处理；
B、精练：将烧毛后的坯布在45-50℃的精练液中二浸二轧，水洗，烘干，精练时间为30-45min；
C、整理：将精练后的坯布在25-30℃的柔软液中二浸二轧，整理时间为2-10min；
D、干燥：将整理后的坯布于45-50℃下烘至干燥，然后在125-130℃下焙烘1-2min；
其中，实施例1-5中各具体参数如表1所示。
表1实施例1-5中的处理参数
实施例6：丝麻交织面料，与实施例1的不同之处在于，将精练剂改成80wt％的果胶酶和20wt％的聚氧乙烯醚的混合物。
实施例7：丝麻交织面料，与实施例1的不同之处在于，将精练剂改成60wt％的果胶酶和40wt％的聚氧乙烯醚的混合物。
实施例8：丝麻交织面料，与实施例1的不同之处在于，将柔软剂改成18.2wt％的聚氧乙烯醚、72.7wt％的八甲基环四硅氧烷和9.1wt％的柠檬酸的混合物。
实施例9：丝麻交织面料，与实施例1的不同之处在于，将柔软剂改成32.3wt％的聚氧乙烯醚、64.5wt％的八甲基环四硅氧烷和3.2wt％的柠檬酸的混合物。
实施例10：丝麻交织面料，与实施例4的不同之处在于，将柔软剂改成34.3wt％的2D树脂、34.3wt％的水溶性聚氨酯WPU、5.7wt％的催化剂、14.3wt％的氨基硅乳液和11.4wt％的一水合氯化镁的混合物。
实施例11：体感和机械性能表征
采用PhabroMeter织物风格仪进行机械性能指标测试，测试结果见表2。
如表2所示，研究发现，本申请的丝麻交织面料伸长有了较大提高，弯曲刚度也大幅下降，面料手感变得柔软，与皮肤接触后无刺痒感；本申请的丝麻交织面料的剪切刚度下降不大，仍能保持较好的面料强度。
表2体感和机械性能表征结果
实施例12：抗菌性能评价
采用国家标准GB/T20944.3-2008《纺织品抗菌性能的评价第3部分：振荡法》进行抗菌性定量测试，采用耐洗色牢度试验机洗涤方法，分别测试未水洗、水洗30次和水洗100次后织物的抑菌率，测试结果见表3。
如表3所示，研究发现，实施例4和实施例5抑菌率高，且其随着水洗次数的增加，仍能保持较高的抑菌率。
表3抗菌性测试结果

Claims (4)

1.一种丝麻交织面料，其特征在于，其以桑蚕丝为经纱、苎麻为纬纱交织而成，所述丝麻交织面料按如下方法依次进行处理：
A、烧毛：取检验合格的坯布，以50-55m/min速度进行烧毛处理；
B、精练：将烧毛后的坯布在45-50℃的精练液中二浸二轧，水洗，烘干；其中，精练液中精练剂的浓度为0.8-1.1g/L且精练剂由70-77wt％的果胶酶和23-30wt％的聚氧乙烯醚组成，精练时间为30-45min且浴比1：18-21；
C、整理：将精练后的坯布在25-30℃的柔软液中二浸二轧；其中，柔软液中柔软剂的浓度为8-11g/L，柔软剂包括聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷、纳米银和柠檬酸且所述聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸的质量比为4-7：12-16：1，整理时间为2-10min且浴比1：18-21；
D、干燥：将整理后的坯布于45-50℃下烘至干燥，然后在125-130℃下焙烘1-2min。
2.根据权利要求1所述的丝麻交织面料，其特征在于，所述精练剂的浓度为1.0g/L，且精练剂由75wt％的果胶酶和25wt％的聚氧乙烯醚组成。
3.根据权利要求1所述的丝麻交织面料，其特征在于，所述柔软液中柔软剂的浓度为10g/L，所述柔软剂包括聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸且所述聚氧乙烯醚、八甲基环四硅氧烷和柠檬酸的质量比为5：14：1。
4.根据权利要求1所述的丝麻交织面料，其特征在于，所述纳米银和柠檬酸的质量比为0.05-0.1：1。
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