Summary of the invention
The object of this invention is to provide a kind of open country silk borcade velvet and weaving method thereof, with the same raw material silk borcade velvet that just the woven third dimension of energy is strong, without bobbin cradle, floor space is little, and different acid-base method, does not pollute the environment, need not draw latitude, labour intensity reduces, and greatly reduces cost.
The technical solution adopted for the present invention to solve the technical problems is:
A kind of open country silk borcade velvet, comprise lower floor's base cloth of top line, the upper strata Ji Bu of upper layer weft yarns composition and lower layer warp yarns, lower floor weft yarn composition, and weave with upper strata Ji Bu weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth weft yarn consolidation the velvet warp yarn that upper strata Ji Bu, lower floor's base cloth are linked up, form finally by cut pile Final finishing; When weaving, top line also comprises upper strata and assists warp thread, and lower layer warp yarns comprises lower floor and assists warp thread, and upper layer weft yarns comprises upper strata auxiliary weft, and lower floor's weft yarn comprises lower floor's auxiliary weft; Described top line, can be divided into again upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread and upper strata and assist warp thread; Described lower layer warp yarns, can be divided into again lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, lower floor's base cloth second warp thread and lower floor to assist warp thread; Described upper layer weft yarns, can be divided into again upper strata Ji Bu first weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu second weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu tri-weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu tetra-weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu five weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu six weft yarn and upper strata first auxiliary weft, upper strata second auxiliary weft, upper strata the 3rd auxiliary weft, upper strata the 4th auxiliary weft; Described lower floor's weft yarn, can be divided into again lower floor's base cloth first weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth second weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 3rd weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 4th weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 5th weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 6th weft yarn and lower floor first auxiliary weft, lower floor second auxiliary weft, lower floor the 3rd auxiliary weft, lower floor the 4th auxiliary weft; Described upper strata Ji Bu warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth warp thread, lower floor's base cloth weft yarn and velvet warp yarn are same raw material, and warp thread, upper strata auxiliary weft are assisted in described upper strata, warp thread is assisted by lower floor, lower floor's auxiliary weft is all water-soluble fibre.
A kind of weaving method of open country silk borcade velvet comprises the following steps:
The first step: upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, lower floor's base cloth first warp rolls are decided to be bright thread on a beam of a loom; Warp thread is assisted on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, upper strata, lower floor assists warp rolls around on another beam of a loom, be decided to be loose warp yarn; Velvet warp yarn is wound on the 3rd beam of a loom.
Second step: string is combined and plugged in reed; By upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, warp thread is assisted on upper strata, warp thread is assisted by lower floor and velvet warp yarn amount to seven successively string combine and insert same dent.
3rd step: shedding beats up and weaves;
A kind of open country silk borcade velvet pile matte has four kinds of situations to exist:
One, the velvet flowers district of suede is had;
Two, lint-free open country district;
Three, from there being the velvet flowers district of suede to convert lint-free open country district to;
Four, the velvet flowers district of suede is transformed into from lint-free open country district;
Our subregion is described below below:
One, the velvet flowers district of suede is had to weave situation as follows:
First shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata first auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
Second shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu first weft yarn, beat up and weave;
3rd shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
4th shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu tri-weft yarn, beat up and weave;
5th shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata second auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
6th shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor first auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
7th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth first weft yarn, beats up and weave;
8th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
9th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 3rd weft yarn, beats up and weave;
Tenth shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor second auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
11 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata the 3rd auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
12 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu tetra-weft yarn, beat up and weave;
13 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu five weft yarn, beats up and weave;
14 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu six weft yarn, beat up and weave;
15 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata the 4th auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
16 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor second auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
17 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 4th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
18 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 5th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
19 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 6th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
20 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor the 4th auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
Two, it is as follows that situation is weaved in lint-free open country district:
First shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata first auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
Second shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu first weft yarn, beat up and weave;
3rd shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
4th shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu tri-weft yarn, beats up and weave;
5th shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata second auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
6th shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor first auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
7th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth first weft yarn, beats up and weave;
8th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
9th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 3rd weft yarn, beats up and weave;
Tenth shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor second auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
11 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata the 3rd auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
12 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu tetra-weft yarn, beats up and weave;
13 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu five weft yarn, beats up and weave;
14 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu six weft yarn, beats up and weave;
15 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata the 4th auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
16 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor the 3rd auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
17 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 4th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
18 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 5th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
19 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 6th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
20 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor the 4th auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
Three, from there being the velvet flowers district of suede to convert lint-free open country district to:
First shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata first auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
Second shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu first weft yarn, beat up and weave;
3rd shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
4th shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu tri-weft yarn, beat up and weave;
5th shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata second auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
6th shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor first auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
7th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth first weft yarn, beats up and weave;
8th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
9th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 3rd weft yarn, beats up and weave;
Tenth shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor second auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
11 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata the 3rd auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
12 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu tetra-weft yarn, beats up and weave;
13 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu five weft yarn, beats up and weave;
14 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu six weft yarn, beats up and weave;
15 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata the 4th auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
16 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor the 3rd auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
17 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 4th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
18 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 5th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
19 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 6th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
20 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor the 4th auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
Four, the velvet flowers district of suede is transformed into from lint-free open country district:
First shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata first auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
Second shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu first weft yarn, beats up and weave;
3rd shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
4th shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu tri-weft yarn, beats up and weave;
5th shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into upper strata second auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
6th shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor first auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
7th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth first weft yarn, beats up and weave;
8th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth second weft yarn, beats up and weave;
9th shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 3rd weft yarn, beats up and weave;
Tenth shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread up to carry lower floor, drops into lower floor second auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
11 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata the 3rd auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
12 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu tetra-weft yarn, beat up and weave;
13 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread up to carry on upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata, drops into upper strata Ji Bu five weft yarn, beats up and weave;
14 shuttle: knit upper strata, assists warp thread by upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, upper strata, velvet warp yarn up carries, drop into upper strata Ji Bu six weft yarn, beat up and weave;
15 shuttle: knit upper strata, up carries upper strata Ji Bu first warp thread, upper strata Ji Bu second warp thread, drops into upper strata the 4th auxiliary weft, beats up and weave;
16 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor the 3rd auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
17 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 4th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
18 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth second warp thread, velvet warp yarn, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 5th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
19 shuttle: knit lower floor, up carries lower floor's base cloth first warp thread, drops into lower floor's base cloth the 6th weft yarn, beats up and weave;
20 shuttle: knit lower floor, assists warp thread, velvet warp yarn up carries by lower floor, drop into lower floor the 4th auxiliary weft, beat up and weave;
So far, the four kinds of sheddings situation of beating up of throwing a spear matte existed because of jacquard weave is all introduced complete.
4th step, cut pile; Velvet warp yarn upper strata Ji Bu, lower floor's base cloth linked up cuts open in the middle of two layers of base cloth, forms two layers of aspectant velvet grey cloth.
5th step, drops into velvet grey cloth in specified water, with water-soluble fall water-soluble silk; By be woven in grey cloth auxiliary warp thread, auxiliary weft with water-soluble fall, to dissolve one hour when improving 10 DEG C with the temperature that water-soluble silk is specified with the ratio of 40:1 in water and grey cloth, can obtain without auxiliary warp thread, velvet grey cloth without auxiliary weft.
6th step, brushing, comb suede; With water-soluble fall velvet grey cloth after water-soluble silk, every velvet warp yarn with base cloth weft yarns, Yin Jibu weft yarn consolidation, and still stand erect on base cloth, become the velvet flowers district having suede, every velvet warp yarn interweaved with auxiliary weft, because of auxiliary weft dissolve after be not present in, so these piles have been illusory, once brushing comb suede, just all float in water or curry, becoming lint-free open country district.
7th step, sizing, Final finishing, inspection, warehouse-in.
So far, You Rong district and lint-free district, through sizing and Final finishing, just become a kind of open country silk borcade velvet of the present invention.The three-dimensional flower pattern of suede is pressed in You Rong district, and lint-free district just exposes with knitting, phase mapping of a set onto another brightness.Without bobbin cradle, without etching, need not latitude be drawn, namely become a kind of open country silk borcade velvet of the present invention.
The present invention compared to the prior art, have the following advantages and effect: owing to have employed the weaving method of tight end and loose warp, and combine shedding of the present invention and weave, not only by upper strata Ji Bu second weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu five weft yarn, and lower floor's base cloth second weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 5th weft yarn is isolated in the inner side of bright thread, by upper strata Ji Bu first weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu tri-weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu tetra-weft yarn, upper strata Ji Bu six weft yarn, and lower floor's base cloth first weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 3rd weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 4th weft yarn, lower floor's base cloth the 6th weft yarn is isolated in the outside of bright thread, increase the flexural wave height of consolidation suede through pile like this, add fine hair fastness.And, by upper strata first auxiliary weft, upper strata second auxiliary weft, upper strata the 3rd auxiliary weft, upper strata the 4th auxiliary weft, and lower floor first auxiliary weft, lower floor second auxiliary weft, lower floor the 3rd auxiliary weft, lower floor the 4th auxiliary weft all divide and are interposed between inside bright thread, and repel on the downside of the Ji Bu of upper strata, on the upside of lower floor's base cloth, make all to be free in outside base cloth through pile with the suede of its intertexture.These auxiliary wefts dissolve away once water-soluble, and it is just floating by water or curried that these piles just naturally lose binding, defines lint-free open country region, reach effect of the present invention.