CN104726982A - High-elongation skin-friendly cashmere yarn - Google Patents
High-elongation skin-friendly cashmere yarn Download PDFInfo
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- CN104726982A CN104726982A CN201510108785.9A CN201510108785A CN104726982A CN 104726982 A CN104726982 A CN 104726982A CN 201510108785 A CN201510108785 A CN 201510108785A CN 104726982 A CN104726982 A CN 104726982A
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Abstract
The invention discloses a preparation method of high-elongation skin-friendly cashmere yarn. Basically no chemical agents are added in the whole processing process of the high-elongation skin-friendly cashmere yarn. Biological enzymes especially papain and bromelain are fully utilized in the process. Operation is easy, and the optimal parameters of the technique are verified through a large number of experiments. Compared with indexes of cashmere yarn in the prior art, multiple indexes of the prepared cashmere yarn are greatly improved, and especially the advantages of the high elongation and the skin-friendly effect are achieved.
Description
Technical field
The invention belongs to knitting yarn and technical field of producing thereof, be specifically related to a kind of cashmere yarn and production technology thereof of high elongation rate pro-skin.
Background technology
Goat cashmere is the title have " diamond fiber " in wool industry.It belongs to special fibre, has light, soft, bath, glutinous feature.Fleece fabrics soft smooth, comfortable and easy to wear, warming, feel is sliding glutinous, and fine and smooth, vision is graceful, luxurious, gloss is soft, beautiful.Cashmere fiber fineness is thin, and length is short, and usual average fineness is 13 ~ 16 μm, average length is 30 ~ 60mm, and monofilament strength is not high, and average single fiber brute force is 3.0 ~ 4.5CN.Therefore, in processing process, reduce fibre damage, most important to raising yarn quality.Cashmere knit product also exists distinct issues always: fabric wet elasticity is poor, rebound performance difference (elongation at break of cashmere yarn generally only has 10% ~ 15%), make the dimensional stability of product lower, especially repeatedly easily distortion after washing.According to national textile industry standard and International Wool Secretariat's standard, carded cashmere yarn, in scourability, belongs to hand washing class knitwear.At present, domestic wool spinning knitting industry usually adopt auxiliary agent anti-shrinking (one, slubbing knitwear that treated wool fibre is made, two, to the carded woollen knitwear made through methods such as row anti-shrinkings) to improve the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of product.And cashmere fibres is unfit to do anti-shrinking, because anti-shrinking can reduce the intrinsic good characteristic of goat cashmere to a certain extent.
For reducing common process to the damage of cashmere fiber, current enterprise generally utilizes low-temp dyeing accelerant to reduce dyeing temperature, optimizes the intensity that textile technology carrys out reinforcing fibre.
Enzyme is a kind of pure biologic product, health environment-friendly noresidue, and ferment treatment temperature is low, less energy consumption, can not cause environmental pollution, belongs to green technology, and abundant, the not easily advantage such as yellowing of cashmere feel softness after process, its application in textile industry will be more and more wider.Protease can make-the CONH in cashmere fiber scale layer in cornified gal4 amino acid be hydrolyzed gradually, make scale structure local occur that crackle even damages, along with the growth of enzyme processing time, scale there will be and comes off, lipid layer is destroyed, the class lipid layer of more than 61% can be removed, improve the hydrophily of fiber, be beneficial to dyestuff to cashmere fiber diffusion inside, increase dyestuff dyeing rate, during dyeing, low temperature dyeing can be carried out between 75-85 DEG C, and after-dyeing K/S value is higher; Thus cashmere low temperature dyeing is achieved.Between the general 40-50 of ferment treatment temperature DEG C, the mechanism of enzyme is slow, but short dye is effective, but there is Fruit variety and practical operation is not easy to the problems such as control.Prior art has disclosed the cashmere through ferment treatment, not only has the performance of anti-fulling milling, and reduces the rigidity of cashmere, make it to be easy to stretch and do not bounce back, add the elasticity of cashmere, its feel also flexible relative simultaneously, thus make cashmere become sliding and carefully, be rich in cashmere sense.Under the prerequisite as far as possible reducing the damage of cashmere cortical layer, ferment treatment partly or entirely divests cashmere scale, brings gratifying change to cashmere wearability, processing characteristics, as spinning high-count yarn, knit cloister fabric processed, improve gloss, feel, wettability power.And there is people papain to be used for the anti-shrinking of cashmere.
But enzyme is strong as a kind of substrate specificity, requires high pure biologic product to reaction environment, now its to be applied to natural fabric process also very immature, there is many problems, range of application is wideless.
The present invention aims to provide the processing technology that a kind of whole process does not add the cashmere yarn of the high elongation rate pro-skin of chemical reagent, this process takes full advantage of biology enzyme, and it is simple to operate, and passing through the lot of experiment validation the most optimized parameter of technique, the cashmere yarn of made cashmere yarn many index hinge structure is greatly improved.
Summary of the invention
Based on the technical problem that background technology exists, the present invention is directed to the shortcoming of the processing method of current cashmere yarn, provide a kind of newly, make full use of biology enzyme, whole process does not add the processing technology of the cashmere yarn of the environmental protection high elongation rate pro-skin of chemical reagent.
Biology enzyme used by the present invention mainly contains two kinds, bromelain and papain.
Papain is the neutral protease utilizing the milk in immature papaya fruit to refine, belong to peptide protease in sulfydryl, there is wider substrate specificity, act on the peptide bond that L-arginine in protein, 1B, glycine and Cit residue carboxyl participate in being formed, the polypeptide class of holoprotein intramolecule peptide chain-CO-NH-generation molecular weight can be cut, be applied to the process such as medicine, food, feed, leather and weaving.As a kind of plant rennet, when it is shrinkproof for cashmere, equal with globular preteins hydrolysis rate or close to the hydrolysis rate of epicuticula albumen, reach the hydrolysis pattern effect of uniform treatment, and this hydrolysis pattern concentrates on cashmere surface by making the effect of protease, there is not " rotten core " phenomenon, thus the mechanical property damage of cashmere is less.
Bromelain (Bromelain, be called for short bromelain, also be called bromelin or Bromelain) be extract from pineapple stem end, leaf, skin, through refining, purify, concentrated, enzyme immobilization, freeze drying and a kind of natural plant enzyme of obtaining.Its outward appearance is light gray powder, and molecular weight is 33000, and isoelectric point is 9.55.The bromelain of performance optimal is the middle stem processing utilizing pineapple, adopt hyperfiltration process to carry out filtering and concentrating, frozen drying and obtaining.Product has been widely used in the industry such as food, medicine.
Although two kinds of enzymes all belong to plant rennet, its molecular structure is not identical, and applicant finds, under certain step and ratio, can reach good cashmere treatment effect.
Technical scheme of the present invention is as follows:
(1) select suede, open suede: the cashmere fiber selecting about 16 μm, adopt pashmina setting wheel machine to carry out out suede in the cashmere chosen, cross turbine by cashmere shredding through multiple tracks tip-tap.
(2) ferment treatment washing:
First pass: the aqueous solution of the sodium hydrogensulfite of 1% papain+1%, water temperature remains on 50 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
Second time: 1.5% bromelain, water temperature remains on 55 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
Described ratio is mass percent
After ferment treatment, adopt clear water rinsing, temperature controls at 55 DEG C;
Cashmere after ferment treatment can remove various dirt, and chemical property there occurs change;
(3) low temperature dyeing:
Select reactive dye for wool to carry out dyeing process to cashmere, dyeing temperature controls at 70-80 DEG C, and the time is 10-12 minute;
(4) suede is dried: utilize baking oven to be dried by cashmere, temperature 40 DEG C, the time is 5min;
(5) dewing, point comb: spray into clear water in raw material, put standing 1 day by fully vexed for cashmere, it is carried out to wet process;
(6) and suede: the woolenless cloth after point comb process is added 5-6g/m
3soybean oil and water carry out and suede process;
(7) comb suede: utilize carding machine to suede process after cashmere carry out comb suede;
(8) spun yarn, winder, doubling: utilize fine spining machine coarse yarn and spinning fine yarn;
(9) double twisting: by and the cashmere of good line utilizes two-for-one twister to carry out double twisting process, the twist is 269-280 twist/m.
Described step (2), is preferably papain and bromelain is food-grade, and vigor is 500,000 u/g.
Described step (3), dyeing recipe is preferably, according to mass percent:
All the other are light color or middle look dyestuff;
Described step (7) is preferably, and adopts Britain TATHAM 15507 type combing machine for fur to carry out the process of comb suede, feed quantity 400 grams/bucket, feed 90 seconds hair cycles, shaping number 20.1, shaping is fixed weighs 1.6 grams/30 meters, shaping length 2355 meters, sliver exporting speed 23 ms/min.
Usefulness of the present invention is:
1, in cashmere yarn processing method of the present invention except dyeing, substantially do not add chemical assistant, belong to the production and processing method of pure natural, so obtained cashmere yarn does not all damage health and skin, really accomplish green ecological environmental protection;
2, the present invention takes full advantage of the biology enzyme of natural environmental-protective noresidue, and optimizes reaction condition, and dyeing time is short, and temperature is low, can also obtain the high-grade cashmere yarn goods of indices excellence;
3, ferment treatment temperature is low, less energy consumption, can not cause environmental pollution, belongs to green technology;
4, consider from yarn yarn fineness angle, just twist factor should percentage elongation can be high greatly a bit, be conducive to improving brute force, but fleece fabrics is in order to reach plentiful feel, Final finishing process wants fulling milling to arrange, so twist factor should be smaller, is just conducive to napping.The present invention have selected the suitable twist of 269-280 twist/m, reaches powerful high, the effect of good hand touch;
5, enzymatic process destroys little to cashmere fiber, and not only intensity is high to make the cashmere yarn that obtains, and reaches unexpected pro-skin effect, fully demonstrate fleece fabrics soft smooth, more comfortable, ventilative, more warming than the dress of common cashmere sweater, feel is more sliding glutinous, fine and smooth.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment 1:
(1) select suede, open suede: the cashmere fiber selecting about 16 μm, adopt pashmina setting wheel machine to carry out out suede in the cashmere chosen, cross turbine by cashmere shredding through multiple tracks tip-tap.
(2) ferment treatment washing:
Select papain and bromelain to be food-grade, vigor is 500,000 u/g.
First pass: the aqueous solution of the sodium hydrogensulfite of 1% papain+1%, water temperature remains on 50 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
Second time: 1.5% bromelain enzyme solutions, water temperature remains on 55 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
After ferment treatment, adopt clear water rinsing, temperature controls at 55 DEG C;
Cashmere after ferment treatment can remove various dirt, and chemical property there occurs change;
(3) low temperature dyeing:
Select reactive dye for wool to carry out dyeing process to cashmere, dyeing temperature controls at 70 DEG C, and the time is 10-12 minute
Dyeing recipe is, according to mass percent:
All the other are light color or middle look dyestuff; ;
(4) suede is dried: utilize baking oven to be dried by cashmere, temperature 40 DEG C, the time is 5min;
(5) dewing, point comb: spray into clear water in raw material, put standing 1 day by fully vexed for cashmere, it is carried out to wet process;
(6) and suede: the woolenless cloth after point comb process is added 5g/m
3soybean oil and water carry out and suede process;
(7) comb suede: utilize carding machine to suede process after cashmere carry out comb suede;
The present invention adopts Britain TATHAM 15507 type combing machine for fur to carry out the process of comb suede, feed quantity 400 grams/bucket, feeds 90 seconds hair cycles, shaping number 20.1, and shaping is fixed weighs 1.6 grams/30 meters, shaping length 2355 meters, sliver exporting speed 23 ms/min.
(8) spun yarn, winder, doubling: utilize fine spining machine coarse yarn and spinning fine yarn;
(9) double twisting: by and the cashmere of good line utilizes two-for-one twister carry out double twisting process and be woven into cashmere sweater, the twist is 269 twists/m.
Embodiment 2:
(1) select suede, open suede: the cashmere fiber selecting about 16 μm, adopt pashmina setting wheel machine to carry out out suede in the cashmere chosen, cross turbine by cashmere shredding through multiple tracks tip-tap.
(2) ferment treatment washing:
Select papain and bromelain to be food-grade, vigor is 500,000 u/g.
First pass: the aqueous solution of the sodium hydrogensulfite of 1% papain+1%, water temperature remains on 50 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
Second time: 1.5% bromelain enzyme solutions, water temperature remains on 55 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
After ferment treatment, adopt clear water rinsing, temperature controls at 55 DEG C;
Cashmere after ferment treatment can remove various dirt, and chemical property there occurs change;
(3) low temperature dyeing:
Select reactive dye for wool to carry out dyeing process to cashmere, dyeing temperature controls at 80 DEG C, and the time is 10-12 minute
Dyeing recipe is, according to mass percent:
All the other are light color or middle look dyestuff; ;
(4) suede is dried: utilize baking oven to be dried by cashmere, temperature 40 DEG C, the time is 5min;
(5) dewing, point comb: spray into clear water in raw material, put standing 1 day by fully vexed for cashmere, it is carried out to wet process;
(6) and suede: the woolenless cloth after point comb process is added 6g/m
3soybean oil and water carry out and suede process;
(7) comb suede: utilize carding machine to suede process after cashmere carry out comb suede;
The present invention adopts Britain TATHAM 15507 type combing machine for fur to carry out the process of comb suede, feed quantity 400 grams/bucket, feeds 90 seconds hair cycles, shaping number 20.1, and shaping is fixed weighs 1.6 grams/30 meters, shaping length 2355 meters, sliver exporting speed 23 ms/min.
(8) spun yarn, winder, doubling: utilize fine spining machine coarse yarn and spinning fine yarn;
(9) double twisting: by and the cashmere of good line utilizes two-for-one twister carry out double twisting process and be woven into cashmere sweater, the twist is 280 twists/m.
Embodiment 3:
(1) select suede, open suede: the cashmere fiber selecting about 16 μm, adopt pashmina setting wheel machine to carry out out suede in the cashmere chosen, cross turbine by cashmere shredding through multiple tracks tip-tap.
(2) ferment treatment washing:
Select papain and bromelain to be food-grade, vigor is 500,000 u/g.
First pass: the aqueous solution of the sodium hydrogensulfite of 1% papain+1%, water temperature remains on 50 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
Second time: 1.5% bromelain enzyme solutions, water temperature remains on 55 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
After ferment treatment, adopt clear water rinsing, temperature controls at 55 DEG C;
Cashmere after ferment treatment can remove various dirt, and chemical property there occurs change;
(3) low temperature dyeing:
Select reactive dye for wool to carry out dyeing process to cashmere, dyeing temperature controls at 75 DEG C, and the time is 10-12 minute
Dyeing recipe is, according to mass percent:
All the other are light color or middle look dyestuff; ;
(4) suede is dried: utilize baking oven to be dried by cashmere, temperature 40 DEG C, the time is 5min;
(5) dewing, point comb: spray into clear water in raw material, put standing 1 day by fully vexed for cashmere, it is carried out to wet process;
(6) and suede: the woolenless cloth after point comb process is added 5.5g/m
3soybean oil and water carry out and suede process;
(7) comb suede: utilize carding machine to suede process after cashmere carry out comb suede;
The present invention adopts Britain TATHAM 15507 type combing machine for fur to carry out the process of comb suede, feed quantity 400 grams/bucket, feeds 90 seconds hair cycles, shaping number 20.1, and shaping is fixed weighs 1.6 grams/30 meters, shaping length 2355 meters, sliver exporting speed 23 ms/min.
(8) spun yarn, winder, doubling: utilize fine spining machine coarse yarn and spinning fine yarn;
(9) double twisting: by and the cashmere of good line utilizes two-for-one twister carry out double twisting process and be woven into cashmere sweater, the twist is 270 twists/m.
Embodiment 4: index is tested and assessed
The cashmere yarn that embodiment 1-3 obtains is all soft, plentiful, and pro-skin sense is obviously better than common cashmere yarn, and good luster.
In addition other indexs are tested, as follows:
Ultimate strength and elongation at break:
Table 1 is for detect to the cashmere yarn that embodiment 1-3 prepares the result obtained.
Table 1 performance measurement
| Test item | Embodiment 1 | Embodiment 2 | Embodiment 3 |
| Ultimate strength/CN | 385 | 398 | 393 |
| Elongation at break/% | 38.6 | 37.9 | 35.8 |
This detects data only for above-mentioned detection sample.
Can see, cashmere yarn provided by the invention having very outstanding index performance from experimental data, its infringement is little, soft, plentiful, and pro-skin sense is obviously better than common cashmere yarn, and good luster.And ultimate strength is large, and elongation at break is high, is not easy distortion after being woven into cashmere sweater and breaks.
The above; be only the present invention's preferably detailed description of the invention; but protection scope of the present invention is not limited thereto; anyly be familiar with those skilled in the art in the technical scope that the present invention discloses; be equal to according to technical scheme of the present invention and inventive concept thereof and replace or change, all should be encompassed within protection scope of the present invention.
Claims (5)
1. a preparation method for the cashmere yarn of high elongation rate pro-skin, is characterized in that its preparation method is as follows:
(1) select suede, open suede: the cashmere fiber selecting about 16 μm, adopt pashmina setting wheel machine to carry out out suede in the cashmere chosen, cross turbine by cashmere shredding through multiple tracks tip-tap;
(2) ferment treatment washing:
First pass: 1% papain, water temperature remains on 50 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
Second time: 1.5% bromelain, water temperature remains on 55 DEG C; PH controls 7, and the processing time is 15min;
After ferment treatment, adopt clear water rinsing, temperature controls at 55 DEG C;
Cashmere after ferment treatment can remove various dirt, and chemical property there occurs change;
(3) low temperature dyeing:
Select reactive dye for wool to carry out dyeing process to cashmere, dyeing temperature controls at 70-80 DEG C, and the time is 10-12 minute;
(4) suede is dried: utilize baking oven to be dried by cashmere, temperature 40 DEG C, the time is 5min;
(5) dewing, point comb: spray into clear water in raw material, put standing 1 day by fully vexed for cashmere, it is carried out to wet process;
(6) and suede: the woolenless cloth after point comb process is added 5-6g/m
3soybean oil and water carry out and suede process;
(7) comb suede: utilize carding machine to suede process after cashmere carry out comb suede;
(8) spun yarn, winder, doubling: utilize fine spining machine coarse yarn and spinning fine yarn;
(9) double twisting: by and the cashmere of good line utilizes two-for-one twister to carry out double twisting process, the twist is 269-280 twist/m.
2. preparation method according to claim 1, wherein step (2), be preferably papain and bromelain is food-grade, and vigor is 500,000 u/g, is made into aqueous solution post processing.
3. preparation method according to claim 2, described step (3), dyeing recipe is, according to mass percent:
Glauber salt 5%
Ammonium sulfate 3%
Levelling agent 2%
Bleeding agent 1%
Wool protective agent 1.6%
ph 5～5.5
Bath raio 1: 16
All the other are light color or middle look dyestuff.
4. preparation method according to claim 2, described step (7) is, adopts Britain TATHAM 15507 type combing machine for fur to carry out the process of comb suede, feed quantity 400 grams/bucket, feeds 90 seconds hair cycles, shaping number 20.1, shaping is fixed weighs 1.6 grams/30 meters, shaping length 2355 meters, sliver exporting speed 23 ms/min.
5. the cashmere yarn of the high elongation rate pro-skin that the preparation method described in claim 1-4 prepares.
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Cited By (9)
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| CN105239391A (en) * | 2015-11-13 | 2016-01-13 | 浙江森悦纺织科技有限公司 | Anti-solarization antibacterial cashmere sweater |
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| CN107361411A (en) * | 2017-06-28 | 2017-11-21 | 任新庄 | A kind of preparation method of wool flocking thermal underwear face fabric |
| CN108085817A (en) * | 2018-02-05 | 2018-05-29 | 康赛妮集团有限公司 | A kind of method for weaving of bumps cashmere fiber |
| CN108611867A (en) * | 2018-03-19 | 2018-10-02 | 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of hair washs the two-sided production technology of blended suitable hair |
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| CN111139571A (en) * | 2020-01-21 | 2020-05-12 | 温州市海球服饰有限公司 | Process and equipment for preparing shrink-proof machine-washable cashmere sweater |
| CN115897002A (en) * | 2022-11-24 | 2023-04-04 | 桐乡市华家那羊绒服饰有限公司 | Chitosan/cashmere blended yarn roving production process |
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Cited By (10)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN105239391A (en) * | 2015-11-13 | 2016-01-13 | 浙江森悦纺织科技有限公司 | Anti-solarization antibacterial cashmere sweater |
| CN105256570A (en) * | 2015-11-13 | 2016-01-20 | 长兴华海纺织有限公司 | Finishing auxiliary of woolen sweater |
| CN105442318A (en) * | 2015-11-13 | 2016-03-30 | 浙江森悦纺织科技有限公司 | Sun-protecting and antibacterial finishing auxiliary agent for cashmere sweaters |
| CN107361411A (en) * | 2017-06-28 | 2017-11-21 | 任新庄 | A kind of preparation method of wool flocking thermal underwear face fabric |
| CN108085817A (en) * | 2018-02-05 | 2018-05-29 | 康赛妮集团有限公司 | A kind of method for weaving of bumps cashmere fiber |
| CN108611867A (en) * | 2018-03-19 | 2018-10-02 | 江阴市长泾花园毛纺织有限公司 | A kind of hair washs the two-sided production technology of blended suitable hair |
| CN110714347A (en) * | 2019-10-12 | 2020-01-21 | 博森织染（嘉兴）有限公司 | Low-temperature high-pressure spray cylinder dyeing process for wool |
| CN111139571A (en) * | 2020-01-21 | 2020-05-12 | 温州市海球服饰有限公司 | Process and equipment for preparing shrink-proof machine-washable cashmere sweater |
| CN111139571B (en) * | 2020-01-21 | 2020-08-04 | 温州市海球服饰有限公司 | Process and equipment for preparing shrink-proof machine-washable cashmere sweater |
| CN115897002A (en) * | 2022-11-24 | 2023-04-04 | 桐乡市华家那羊绒服饰有限公司 | Chitosan/cashmere blended yarn roving production process |
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Application publication date: 20150624 |