CN104389095B - 50%羊毛35%绢丝15%氨纶丝法国罗纹布及制备方法 - Google Patents
50%羊毛35%绢丝15%氨纶丝法国罗纹布及制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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Abstract
本发明涉及一种面料的制备方法。50%羊毛35%绢丝15%氨纶丝法国罗纹布的制备方法,该方法包括以下的步骤:原料准备、织造、开幅、清水定型烘干、抓毛、剪毛、空气柔软、上树脂、烫光工艺、二次定型、橡毯预缩和汽蒸预缩。制备的法国罗纹布,同时具备羊毛、绢丝和氨纶丝的特性,具有穿着柔软、光洁艳丽、手感细腻、纤细、柔软保暖,色泽自然柔和,柔韧,有弹性和弹性回复率。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种面料的制备方法,尤其涉及一种法国罗纹布的制备方法。
背景技术
绢丝具有支数高,光泽润美,手感柔和,适于制造轻软的高级织物。
羊毛具有高吸水性:羊毛为非常好的亲水性纤维,穿着非常舒适。保暖性:因羊毛具天然卷曲,可以形成许多不流动的空气区间作为屏障。耐用性:羊毛有非常好的拉伸性及弹性恢复性,并具有特殊的毛鳞结构以及极好的弯曲性,因此它也有很好的外观保持性。
羊绒具有纤细、柔软保暖,色泽自然柔和,柔韧,有弹性。
氨纶丝有很好的弹性和弹性回复率,具有纤度细、强度高、比重小、染色性和牢度较优良等的特点。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种50%羊毛35%绢丝15%氨纶丝法国罗纹布的制备方法,采用该方法制备的法国罗纹布,同时具备羊毛、绢丝和氨纶丝的特性,具有穿着柔软、光洁艳丽、手感细腻、纤细、柔软保暖,色泽自然柔和,柔韧,有弹性和弹性回复率。
为了实现上述的目的,本发明采用了以下的技术方案:
50%羊毛35%绢丝15%氨纶丝法国罗纹布的制备方法,该方法包括以下的步骤:
1)原料准备:50N/2羊毛100/绢丝50色纱,120N/20绢丝,30D氨纶丝;
2)织造:在30寸24G双面提花机,按72路以S捻纱与Z捻纱隔路均匀织入;
3)开幅;采用卧式开幅机,开幅辊线速度<50m/min;
4)清水定型烘干;
5)抓毛、剪毛;抓毛辊的直径采用170~200毫米,转速230~260转/分,线速度140~160米/分,走布速度5~7m/min,抓毛辊与走布速度之比为20:1~30:1,清洁辊直径1~2毫米,转速280~310转/分,清洁辊与抓毛辊隔距,钢针***30/1000英寸,剪毛刀速度850~900转/分,剪毛高度9~12毫米;
6)空气柔软;以30~50m/min运转机器,当前布端到达机器前部时,停机将织物前后布端缝合成环状;启动机器,加速至330~360m/min,处理温度100℃,处理时间25~40min,冷风降温至40℃,8~15min后停机,开幅出布;
7)上树脂:按重量百分比,1~2%增强树脂PM-150的水溶液,浸渍法使用上浆量为0.5~3%;
8)烫光工艺:45%甲酸-15%乙醇烫,剪毛;15%甲酸-15%乙醇烫,剪毛;10%甲酸-15%乙醇-25%甲醛烫,梳、剪;50%甲醛-20%乙醇烫,剪毛,染色,20%乙醇烫成品;9)二次定型:二次定型加40~80g/L蓬松柔软剂、冰凉整理剂58~65g/L、滑爽硅油140~160g/L,温度140~160℃,超喂25m/min;
10)橡毯预缩:橡毯温度应控制在60~70℃,车速在30~35m/min;
11)汽蒸预缩:机械速度,20-30m/min,饱和蒸汽3-3.5Bar,压缩空气5Bar,对面料的横向、纵向缩水率,织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整。
本发明的另外一个目的是提供采用上述的方法制备的法国罗纹布。
本发明由于采用了上述的技术方案,制备的法国罗纹布,同时具备羊毛、绢丝和氨纶丝的特性,具有穿着柔软、光洁艳丽、手感细腻、纤细、柔软保暖,色泽自然柔和,柔韧,有弹性和弹性回复率。
具体实施方式
1.50%羊毛35%绢丝15%氨纶丝法国罗纹布的制备方法,其特征在于该方法包括以下的步骤:
1)原料准备:50N/2羊毛100/绢丝50色纱,120N/20绢丝,30D氨纶丝;
2)织造:在30寸24G双面提花机,按72路以S捻纱与Z捻纱隔路均匀织入;
3)开幅;采用卧式开幅机,开幅辊线速度<50m/min;
4)清水定型烘干;
5)抓毛、剪毛;抓毛辊的直径采用180毫米,转速250转/分,线速度150米/分,走布速度6m/min,抓毛辊与走布速度之比为20:1~30:1,清洁辊直径1.5毫米,转速295转/分,清洁辊与抓毛辊隔距,钢针***30/1000英寸,剪毛刀速度880转/分,剪毛高度11毫米;
6)空气柔软;以40m/min运转机器,当前布端到达机器前部时,停机将织物前后布端缝合成环状;启动机器,加速至345m/min,处理温度100℃,处理时间30min,冷风降温至40℃,12min后停机,开幅出布;
7)上树脂:按重量百分比,2%增强树脂PM-150的水溶液,浸渍法使用上浆量为2%;
8)烫光工艺:45%甲酸-15%乙醇烫,剪毛;15%甲酸-15%乙醇烫,剪毛;10%甲酸-15%乙醇-25%甲醛烫,梳、剪;50%甲醛-20%乙醇烫,剪毛,染色,20%乙醇烫成品;9)二次定型:二次定型加60g/L蓬松柔软剂、冰凉整理剂60g/L、滑爽硅油150g/L,温度150℃,超喂25m/min;
10)橡毯预缩:橡毯温度应控制在65℃,车速在33m/min;
11)汽蒸预缩:机械速度,25m/min,饱和蒸汽3.3Bar,压缩空气5Bar,对面料的横向、纵向缩水率,织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整。
上述的方法制备的法国罗纹布经检测的项目如下表所示。检测标准GB/T22849-2009、GB18401-2003“B”类。
Claims (2)
1.50%羊毛35%绢丝15%氨纶丝法国罗纹布的制备方法,其特征在于该方法包括以下的步骤:
1)原料准备:50N/2羊毛100/绢丝50色纱,120N/20绢丝,30D氨纶丝;
2)织造:在30寸24G双面提花机,按72路以S捻纱与Z捻纱隔路均匀织入;
3)开幅;采用卧式开幅机,开幅辊线速度<50m/min;
4)清水定型烘干;
5)抓毛、剪毛;抓毛辊的直径采用170~200毫米,转速230~260转/分,线速度140~160米/分,走布速度5~7m/min,抓毛辊与走布速度之比为20:1~30:1,清洁辊直径1~2毫米,转速280~310转/分,清洁辊与抓毛辊钢针***30/1000英寸,剪毛刀速度850~900转/分,剪毛高度9~12毫米;
6)空气柔软;以30~50m/min运转机器,当前布端到达机器前部时,停机将织物前后布端缝合成环状;启动机器,加速至330~360m/min,处理温度100℃,处理时间25~40min,冷风降温至40℃,8~15min后停机,开幅出布;
7)上树脂:按重量百分比,1~2%增强树脂PM-150的水溶液,浸渍法使用上浆量为0.5~3%;
8)烫光工艺:45%甲酸-15%乙醇烫,剪毛;15%甲酸-15%乙醇烫,剪毛;10%甲酸-15%乙醇-25%甲醛烫,梳、剪;50%甲醛-20%乙醇烫,剪毛,染色,20%乙醇烫成品;
9)二次定型:二次定型加40~80g/L蓬松柔软剂、冰凉整理剂58~65g/L、滑爽硅油140~160g/L,温度140~160℃,超喂25m/min;
10)橡毯预缩:橡毯温度应控制在60~70℃,车速在30~35m/min;
11)汽蒸预缩:机械速度20-30m/min,饱和蒸汽3-3.5Bar,压缩空气5Bar,对面料的横向、纵向缩水率、织物花型、有效门幅作加工调整。
2.根据权利要求1所述的方法制备的法国罗纹布。
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CN101078148A (zh) * | 2006-05-26 | 2007-11-28 | 江苏丹毛纺织有限公司 | 高支单经单纬精纺面料及其加工方法 |
CN101078149A (zh) * | 2006-05-26 | 2007-11-28 | 江苏丹毛纺织有限公司 | 高支单经单纬精纺单纱及其加工方法 |
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