CN103696080B - Production method for superfine mulberry silk colored silk long scarf - Google Patents

Production method for superfine mulberry silk colored silk long scarf Download PDF

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CN103696080B
CN103696080B CN201310634249.3A CN201310634249A CN103696080B CN 103696080 B CN103696080 B CN 103696080B CN 201310634249 A CN201310634249 A CN 201310634249A CN 103696080 B CN103696080 B CN 103696080B
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silk
temperature
cocoon
superfine
cocoons
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CN103696080A (en
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时连根
沈利伟
宋秋亚
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Zhejiang University ZJU
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Zhejiang University ZJU
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Abstract

The invention discloses a production method for a superfine mulberry silk colored silk long scarf. The method comprises the steps of inducing four-moultinism silkworms into three-moultinism with the medicine of a superfine agent, and producing excellent superfine-fineness silkworm cocoons with the filament number of 1 denier; drying the cocoons into dry cocoons with a hot-air redrying method at the lower temperature for a longer time, boiling the dry cocoons into cooked cocoons with a steam cocoon boiling method at the lower temperature for a shorter time, setting 8 cocoons, and reeling the cocoons into 7/9D standard superfine raw silks under the conditions of small-aperture magnetic holes, lower machining speed and manual cocoon setting and end feeding; weaving one 7/9D standard superfine raw silk into a superfine mulberry silk fabric, coloring and fixing a dye onto fibers with steaming; finishing to form the superfine mulberry colored silk long scarf product. The colored silk long scarf produced according to the invention is superfine, has unique luster and flavor, is anti-wrinkling, good in dyeing property, high in color fastness and bright-colored, and has large economical values. The traditional silk industry is improved and international and domestic diversified market demands can be met.

Description

The production method of the long towel of a kind of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk
Technical field
The present invention relates to the production method of the long towel of a kind of colored silk, especially relate to the production method of the long towel of a kind of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk.
Background technology
Silk fabric is thin only bright and clean, has that gloss is soft, quality is frivolous, soft and high resilience, strong, the magnificent noble quality of hygroscopicity, to characteristics such as body-cares, can be made into clothes, ornament, indoor article, handicraft etc.The long towel of silk is a kind of ornament be made into by silk fabric, it can be used as and intersperses thing or match thing, and allow woman show fully graceful tender pretty, elegant and poised, be the fashionable element of current popular, dark lovers like.The long towel of traditional silk is 2.8 ~ 3.0 DENIER (Denier by filament number, be called for short D) 20/22D, 27/29D, 28/30D, 34/36D equal-specification raw silk weaving of making of common silk cocoon reel silk from cocoons common silk fabrics of going out produce, its wrinkle resistance and dyeability poor, simultaneously because of non-ultra-thin and summer or Tropical Africa result of use poor, this does not meet the multiple demand of society.
The fabric that fine denier raw silk is made into has the characteristics such as thin, wrinkle resistance strong, be rich in gloss, Color is good.Chinese scholars is devoted to study in this respect always, mainly take the fine denier silkworm breeding such as " dawn ", " silver ", " SG ", " 305 ", " 853 is white ", " 543B ", with the medicine such as SD-III, KK-42, KK-22, common four moultinism kind silkworm mutagenesis are become these 2 approach of trimolter, produce the fine denier raw silk of 13/15D, 15/17D specification.Although these two kinds of specification raw silk sizes of 13/15D, 15/17D are thinner than traditional raw silk size, the needs of specific use still can not be met by the long towel products proterties of silk that it is produced.
Summary of the invention
The object of the present invention is to provide the production method of the long towel of a kind of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk, induce four molt silkworm three dormancyizatioies with medicine " ultra-fine element ", manufacture order silk size is 1 DENIER (Denier, be called for short D) the ultra-fine silk cocoon of high-quality, the ultra-fine raw silk of high-quality making 7/9D specification with this silk cocoon reel silk from cocoons, become ultrafine mulberry silk fabric with this raw silk weaving, produce the long towel products of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk with this fabric.
In order to achieve the above object, the step of the technical solution used in the present invention is as follows:
1) at 25 ~ 28 DEG C, raise with proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf the four moultinism kind silkworms to 4 producing upper practicality and play silkworm age, employing is sprayed at the continuous feeding method of 24 ~ 48 hours after on proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf, to the medicine " ultra-fine element " playing silkworm 4 ages and freshen food 0.1 mg/ bar silkworm dosage, induce its three dormancyization, continuing to raise at 24 ~ 25 DEG C to ripe with not spraying medicine proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf, cocooing and producing the high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon that filament number is 1 DENIER;
2) high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon is dried 1.5 hours at 89 ~ 91 DEG C, then go out returning property of stove Long Dui 12 hours, then enter stove and dry 2 hours from the mode that 90 DEG C are at the uniform velocity reduced to 75 DEG C, bake dried cocoon;
3) by dried cocoon priority seeping at high temperature section temperature 94 ~ 96 DEG C, low temperature osmotic section temperature 54 ~ 56 DEG C, steaming stage temperature 94 ~ 96 DEG C, adjustment section temperature 80 ~ 90 DEG C, outlet protection section temperature 49 ~ 51 DEG C of difference cocoon cooking 2 minutes, 1 minute, 2 minutes, 1 minute, 1 minute, ripe cocoon is cooked into;
4) girth is become by ripe cocoon reel silk from cocoons on reeling machine to be the little silk sheet of 0.65 ~ 0.7 meter, its technique is: select thin magnetic eyelet diameter to be the collection thread device of 60 μm, determine grain 8, cocoon 3 ~ 5 is joined newly in center, and manually determining grain adds thread, beating temperature 87 ~ 93 DEG C, filature soup temperature 33 ~ 39 DEG C, the filature speed of a motor vehicle 80 ~ 100 revs/min, flow 700 mL/min, croisure length 14 cm;
5) by little silk sheet in vacuum barrel with dewing under 0.082 mpa vacuum pressure 4 times, workshop temperature 25 ~ 27 DEG C with humidity 65%, compartment temperature 38 ~ 40 DEG C and return into the large silk sheet that girth is 1.3 ~ 1.5 meters under humidity 39%, the speed of a motor vehicle 140 ~ 145 revs/min, 30 minutes are balanced 75% time in temperature 26 ~ 28 DEG C and humidity, then carry out volume inspection, hank knotting, color matching, packing, member, be produced into the ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification;
6) with 1 ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification, Weaving-machine is made into ultrafine mulberry silk fabric, and its process conditions are: Winding Tension is 1.5 ~ 2.0 CN, become cylinder thread tension be in 2.5 ~ 3.5 CN, warping skewer tension force be 0.5 ~ 1.5 CN, be organized as plain weave, density high density 38# reed, through close be 38 ~ 40 centimetres, filling density is 39 ~ 41 centimetres;
7) take water as medium, modulate acid red respectively, dyeing liquor that Huang, blue dyestuff become mass percent 1.0 ~ 2.6%;
8) press selected color scheme, painted by ultrafine mulberry silk fabric in dyeing liquor, its technique is: temperature 95 ~ 98 DEG C, colouring time 50 ~ 60 min;
9) use continuous steaming machine in pressure 0.5 kg/cm 2lower decatize 45 min, is bonded to dyestuff on fiber;
10) use clear water rinsing, remove the slurry, the loose colour that evaporate on rear fabric;
11) according to specification cutting, top, the long towel products of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is made.
Described " ultra-fine element " synthesizes imidazoles by weight: o-phenylenediamine: POCl 3: HCl=3:1:30:0.1 mixes, back flow reaction 1 ~ 1.5 hour at 60 ~ 85 DEG C, purifies with recrystallization method, vacuumize and obtaining.
The beneficial effect that the present invention has is:
Adopt the long towel of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk that the present invention produces, ultrathin, compared with the long towel products of common mulberry silk colored silk, local flavor, gloss, dyeability, COLOR FASTNESS, chromaticness vividness, wrinkle resistance etc. significantly improve, economic worth is large, traditional Silk Industry can be promoted simultaneously, meet the multiple demand of domestic and international market.
Detailed description of the invention
Embodiment 1:
1) at 25 DEG C, raise with proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf the four moultinism kind silkworms to 4 producing practicality and play silkworm age, adopt the continuous feeding method of 24 hours after on proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf that is sprayed at, to the medicine " ultra-fine element " playing silkworm 4 ages and freshen food 0.1 mg/ bar silkworm dosage, induce its three dormancyization, continue to raise to ripe at 25 DEG C with not spraying medicine proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf, cocoon and produce the high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon that filament number is 1 DENIER (Denier, D);
2) high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon is dried 1.5 hours at 90 DEG C, then go out returning property of stove Long Dui 12 hours, then enter stove and dry 2 hours from the mode that 90 DEG C are at the uniform velocity reduced to 75 DEG C, bake dried cocoon;
3) by dried cocoon priority seeping at high temperature section temperature 95 DEG C, low temperature osmotic section temperature 55 DEG C, steaming stage temperature 95 DEG C, adjustment section temperature 80 DEG C, outlet protection section temperature 50 C difference cocoon cooking 2 minutes, 1 minute, 2 minutes, 1 minute, 1 minute, ripe cocoon is cooked into;
4) girth is become by ripe cocoon reel silk from cocoons on reeling machine to be the little silk sheet of 0.65 meter, its technique is: select thin magnetic eyelet diameter to be the collection thread device of 60 μm, determine grain 8, cocoon 3 is joined newly in center, and manually determining grain adds thread, beating temperature 90 DEG C, filature soup temperature 36 DEG C, the filature speed of a motor vehicle 90 revs/min, flow 700 mL/min, croisure length 14 cm;
5) by little silk sheet in vacuum barrel with dewing under 0.082 mpa vacuum pressure 4 times, workshop temperature 26 DEG C with humidity 65%, compartment temperature 39 DEG C and return into the large silk sheet that girth is 1.4 meters under humidity 39%, the speed of a motor vehicle 140 revs/min, 30 minutes are balanced 75% time in temperature 27 DEG C and humidity, then carry out volume inspection, hank knotting, color matching, packing, member, be produced into the ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification.
6) with 1 ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification, Weaving-machine is made into ultrafine mulberry silk fabric, and its process conditions are: Winding Tension is 1.5 CN, become cylinder thread tension be in 2.5 CN, warping skewer tension force be 0.5 CN, be organized as plain weave, density high density 38# reed, through close be 38 centimetres, filling density is 39 centimetres;
7) take water as medium, modulate the dyeing liquor that acid red dye becomes mass percent 1.0% respectively;
8) press selected color scheme, painted by ultrafine mulberry silk fabric in dyeing liquor, its technique is: temperature 95 DEG C, colouring time 50 min;
9) use continuous steaming machine in pressure 0.5 kg/cm 2lower decatize 45 min, is bonded to dyestuff on fiber;
10) use clear water rinsing, remove the slurry, the loose colour that evaporate on rear fabric;
11) according to the cutting of 57cm × 180cm specification, on top top on machine, the long towel products of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is made.
The creasy recovery angle of the long towel of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is 286o, and dye-uptake is 98%, and soaping fastness is 4 grades, reflection integral area 24819.Test 3 batches and all obtain identical result.
Embodiment 2:
1) at 27 DEG C, raise with proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf the four moultinism kind silkworms to 4 producing practicality and play silkworm age, adopt the continuous feeding method of 36 hours after on proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf that is sprayed at, to the medicine " ultra-fine element " playing silkworm 4 ages and freshen food 0.1 mg/ bar silkworm dosage, induce its three dormancyization, continue to raise to ripe at 24 DEG C with not spraying medicine proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf, cocoon and produce the high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon that filament number is 1 DENIER (Denier, D);
2) high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon is dried 1.5 hours at 91 DEG C, then go out returning property of stove Long Dui 12 hours, then enter stove and dry 2 hours from the mode that 90 DEG C are at the uniform velocity reduced to 75 DEG C, bake dried cocoon;
3) by dried cocoon priority seeping at high temperature section temperature 96 DEG C, low temperature osmotic section temperature 56 DEG C, steaming stage temperature 96 DEG C, adjustment section temperature 85 DEG C, outlet protection section temperature 51 DEG C of difference cocoon cooking 2 minutes, 1 minute, 2 minutes, 1 minute, 1 minute, ripe cocoon is cooked into;
4) girth is become by ripe cocoon reel silk from cocoons on reeling machine to be the little silk sheet of 0.7 meter, its technique is: select thin magnetic eyelet diameter to be the collection thread device of 60 μm, determine grain 8, cocoon 4 is joined newly in center, and manually determining grain adds thread, beating temperature 93 DEG C, filature soup temperature 39 DEG C, the filature speed of a motor vehicle 100 revs/min, flow 700 mL/min, croisure length 14 cm;
5) by little silk sheet in vacuum barrel with dewing under 0.082 mpa vacuum pressure 4 times, workshop temperature 27 DEG C with humidity 65%, compartment temperature 40 DEG C and return into the large silk sheet that girth is 1.5 meters under humidity 39%, the speed of a motor vehicle 143 revs/min, 30 minutes are balanced 75% time in temperature 28 DEG C and humidity, then carry out volume inspection, hank knotting, color matching, packing, member, be produced into the ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification.
6) with 1 ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification, Weaving-machine is made into ultrafine mulberry silk fabric, and its process conditions are: Winding Tension is 1.8 CN, become cylinder thread tension be in 3.0 CN, warping skewer tension force be 1.0 CN, be organized as plain weave, density high density 38# reed, through close be 39 centimetres, filling density is 40 centimetres;
7) take water as medium, modulate the dyeing liquor that acid yellow dye becomes mass percent 1.8% respectively;
8) press selected color scheme, painted by ultrafine mulberry silk fabric in dyeing liquor, its technique is: temperature 97 DEG C, colouring time 55 min;
9) use continuous steaming machine in pressure 0.5 kg/cm 2lower decatize 45 min, is bonded to dyestuff on fiber;
10) use clear water rinsing, remove the slurry, the loose colour that evaporate on rear fabric;
11) according to the cutting of 57cm × 180cm specification, on top top on machine, the long towel products of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is made.
The creasy recovery angle of the long towel of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is 290o, and dye-uptake is 97%, and soaping fastness is 4 grades, reflection integral area 24868.Test 4 batches and all obtain identical result.
Embodiment 3:
1) at 28 DEG C, raise with proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf the four moultinism kind silkworms to 4 producing practicality and play silkworm age, adopt the continuous feeding method of 48 hours after on proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf that is sprayed at, to the medicine " ultra-fine element " playing silkworm 4 ages and freshen food 0.1 mg/ bar silkworm dosage, induce its three dormancyization, continue to raise to ripe at 25 DEG C with not spraying medicine proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf, cocoon and produce the high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon that filament number is 1 DENIER (Denier, D);
2) high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon is dried 1.5 hours at 89 DEG C, then go out returning property of stove Long Dui 12 hours, then enter stove and dry 2 hours from the mode that 90 DEG C are at the uniform velocity reduced to 75 DEG C, bake dried cocoon;
3) by dried cocoon priority seeping at high temperature section temperature 94 DEG C, low temperature osmotic section temperature 54 DEG C, steaming stage temperature 94 DEG C, adjustment section temperature 90 DEG C, outlet protection section temperature 49 DEG C of difference cocoon cooking 2 minutes, 1 minute, 2 minutes, 1 minute, 1 minute, ripe cocoon is cooked into;
4) girth is become by ripe cocoon reel silk from cocoons on reeling machine to be the little silk sheet of 0.7 meter, its technique is: select thin magnetic eyelet diameter to be the collection thread device of 60 μm, determine grain 8, cocoon 5 is joined newly in center, and manually determining grain adds thread, beating temperature 87 DEG C, filature soup temperature 33 DEG C, the filature speed of a motor vehicle 80 revs/min, flow 700 mL/min, croisure length 14 cm;
5) by little silk sheet in vacuum barrel with dewing under 0.082 mpa vacuum pressure 4 times, workshop temperature 25 DEG C with humidity 65%, compartment temperature 38 DEG C and return into the large silk sheet that girth is 1.3 meters under humidity 39%, the speed of a motor vehicle 145 revs/min, 30 minutes are balanced 75% time in temperature 26 DEG C and humidity, then carry out volume inspection, hank knotting, color matching, packing, member, be produced into the ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification.
6) with 1 ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification, Weaving-machine is made into ultrafine mulberry silk fabric, and its process conditions are: Winding Tension is 2.0 CN, become cylinder thread tension be in 3.5 CN, warping skewer tension force be 1.5 CN, be organized as plain weave, density high density 38# reed, through close be 40 centimetres, filling density is 41 centimetres;
7) take water as medium, modulate the dyeing liquor that acid blue dyestuff becomes mass percent 2.6% respectively;
8) press selected color scheme, painted by ultrafine mulberry silk fabric in dyeing liquor, its technique is: temperature 98 DEG C, colouring time 60 min;
9) use continuous steaming machine in pressure 0.5 kg/cm 2lower decatize 45 min, is bonded to dyestuff on fiber;
10) use clear water rinsing, remove the slurry, the loose colour that evaporate on rear fabric;
11) according to the cutting of 57cm × 180cm specification, on top top on machine, the long towel products of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is made.
The creasy recovery angle of the long towel of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is 291o, and dye-uptake is 98%, and soaping fastness is 4 grades, reflection integral area 24898.Test 5 batches and all obtain identical result.

Claims (1)

1. a production method for the long towel of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk, is characterized in that:
1) at 25 ~ 28 DEG C, raise with proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf the four moultinism kind silkworms to 4 producing upper practicality and play silkworm age, employing is sprayed at the continuous feeding method of 24 ~ 48 hours after on proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf, to the medicine " ultra-fine element " playing silkworm 4 ages and freshen food 0.1 mg/ bar silkworm dosage, induce its three dormancyization, continuing to raise at 24 ~ 25 DEG C to ripe with not spraying medicine proper mature (ripe) mulberry leaf, cocooing and producing the high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon that filament number is 1 DENIER;
2) high-quality ultrafine-titer silk cocoon is dried 1.5 hours at 89 ~ 91 DEG C, then go out returning property of stove Long Dui 12 hours, then enter stove and dry 2 hours from the mode that 90 DEG C are at the uniform velocity reduced to 75 DEG C, bake dried cocoon;
3) by dried cocoon successively with the cocoon cooking 2 minutes, 1 minute, 2 minutes, 1 minute, 1 minute respectively of seeping at high temperature section temperature 94 ~ 96 DEG C, low temperature osmotic section temperature 54 ~ 56 DEG C, steaming stage temperature 94-96 DEG C, adjustment section temperature 80 ~ 90 DEG C, outlet protection section temperature 49 ~ 51 DEG C, be cooked into ripe cocoon;
4) girth is become by ripe cocoon reel silk from cocoons on reeling machine to be the little silk sheet of 0.65 ~ 0.7 meter, its technique is: select thin magnetic eyelet diameter to be the collection thread device of 60 μm, determine grain 8, cocoon 3 ~ 5 is joined newly in center, and manually determining grain adds thread, beating temperature 87 ~ 93 DEG C, filature soup temperature 33 ~ 39 DEG C, the filature speed of a motor vehicle 80 ~ 100 revs/min, flow 700 mL/min, croisure length 14 cm;
5) by little silk sheet in vacuum barrel with dewing under 0.082 mpa vacuum pressure 4 times, workshop temperature 25 ~ 27 DEG C with humidity 65%, compartment temperature 38 ~ 40 DEG C and return into the large silk sheet that girth is 1.3 ~ 1.5 meters under humidity 39%, the speed of a motor vehicle 140 ~ 145 revs/min, 30 minutes are balanced 75% time in temperature 26 ~ 28 DEG C and humidity, then carry out volume inspection, hank knotting, color matching, packing, member, be produced into the ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification;
6) with 1 ultra-fine raw silk of 7/9D specification, Weaving-machine is made into ultrafine mulberry silk fabric, and its process conditions are: Winding Tension is 1.5 ~ 2.0 CN, become cylinder thread tension be in 2.5 ~ 3.5 CN, warping skewer tension force be 0.5 ~ 1.5 CN, be organized as plain weave, density high density 38# reed, through close be 38 ~ 40 centimetres, filling density is 39 ~ 41 centimetres;
7) take water as medium, modulate acid red respectively, dyeing liquor that Huang, blue dyestuff become mass percent 1.0 ~ 2.6%;
8) press selected color scheme, painted by ultrafine mulberry silk fabric in dyeing liquor, its technique is: temperature 95 ~ 98 DEG C, colouring time 50 ~ 60 min;
9) use continuous steaming machine in pressure 0.5 kg/cm 2lower decatize 45 min, is bonded to dyestuff on fiber;
10) use clear water rinsing, remove the slurry, the loose colour that evaporate on rear fabric;
11) according to specification cutting, top, the long towel products of ultrafine mulberry silk colored silk is made;
Described " ultra-fine element " synthesizes imidazoles by weight: o-phenylenediamine: POCl 3: HCl=3:1:30:0.1 mixes, back flow reaction 1 ~ 1.5 hour at 60 ~ 85 DEG C, purifies with recrystallization method, vacuumize and obtaining.
CN201310634249.3A 2013-12-03 2013-12-03 Production method for superfine mulberry silk colored silk long scarf Expired - Fee Related CN103696080B (en)

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CN105274705B (en) * 2015-11-24 2017-07-18 杭州万事利丝绸文化股份有限公司 The silk scarf that a kind of gossamer preparation method and this method make
CN106400125A (en) * 2016-10-24 2017-02-15 苏州维度丝绸有限公司 Silk processing method
CN106592051A (en) * 2016-12-26 2017-04-26 广西江缘茧丝绸有限公司 Production method of colorful silk quilt

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CN1268804C (en) * 2004-04-02 2006-08-09 江苏华艺服饰有限公司 Artistic dyeing-collating technique for integrated dyeing and patterning process for ready-made clothes
CN100412265C (en) * 2005-04-01 2008-08-20 深圳市厚裕时装有限公司 Method for hand-painted coloration and dyeing of textile
CN1943332B (en) * 2006-10-26 2010-05-19 浙江大学 Method for producing super fine silk yarn
CN102828307B (en) * 2012-08-09 2015-04-29 浙江大学 Production method for ultrafine raw silks of 7/9D specifications
CN103004707A (en) * 2012-12-20 2013-04-03 江苏华佳丝绸有限公司 Production method for optimizing and regulating fine denier/ultra-fine denier silkworm cocoon silks in different specifications
CN103243447B (en) * 2013-04-18 2014-09-03 达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司 Production process of superfine mulberry silk fiber woven fabric
CN103243446B (en) * 2013-04-18 2014-09-17 达利丝绸(浙江)有限公司 Thin-texture woven fabric formed by superfine mulberry silk fibers

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