CN103610251A - JFT original number tailoring method of clothing sleeve top shape - Google Patents
JFT original number tailoring method of clothing sleeve top shape Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
The invention relates to a JFT original number tailoring method of a clothing sleeve top shape. Clothing original numbers of specifications such as the armhole perimeter, the sleeve length and the chest circumference are determined according to human body measurement data and clothing styles. The sleeve shape is finished by arranging a sleeve top base line J, a sleeve width line F and a sleeve top guiding line T. The method is proved to be reasonable and feasible according to practice. According to the JFT original number tailoring method for the clothing sleeve top shape, sleeve top shapes needed by various clothing styles and sizes can be obtained according to the clothing original numbers directly, and the JFT original number tailoring method of the clothing sleeve top shape is simple, practical and convenient to use.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing manufacture method, especially relate to a kind of former figure tailoring method of JFT of the garment sleeve mountain moulding based on human body raw measurement data.
Background technology
Garment sleeve mountain line is unique key element of sewing up with armhole perimeter line, determines that whether the moulding of sleeve mountain and the armhole form of sleeve mountain line morphology be supporting, and this is to human comfort, all very important to tailoring manufacture.Empirical value for prior art, by methods such as half chest measurement/4, solve the high value in sleeve mountain and form and tuck inside the sleeve mountain moulding or first draw fundamental mode figure; The most representative is the new cultural prototype of Japan, find out and be less than the numerical computations that clothing specification is greater than human body surface and draw cut out the dress model plate without style name, contrast is estimating to draw sanction clothes profiled sheeting again, result makes prototype board become waste paper, the whether supporting only judgement by rule of thumb of profiled sheeting sleeve mountain moulding and armhole.These technology make the trial-manufacturing process of clothes spend larger manpower and materials and time, the style that is not suitable with market-oriented clothes changes demand, cannot meet the problems such as precision rate request of garment market to dress ornament conversion, limit to a great extent the development of clothing industry.Open day is on September 19th, 2007, publication number is that the Chinese patent document of CN101036537A discloses a kind of 180 ° of digitalized clothing plate making technical schemes, it adopts angle, numeral, equation to calculate, and makes clothing plate making technology have science, regularity, broad spectrum activity.Its core technology is: shoulder moulding is with 180 °, 181 °, and 182 °, 183 ° ... angle represents or 6.8,6.7,6.6,6.5 ... numerical calculation, armhole is used equation deeply: and average armhole is dark * and calculate on the best sleeve of 0.85=mountain, and sleeve mountain BICEP can be determined by ideal simultaneously.
There is the problem of the direct ratio growth that sleeve mountain is high and armhole is dark in above-mentioned technical method, run counter to more dark looser, the more high more close-fitting apparel construction rule in sleeve mountain of armhole, the mountain variation in moulding design that makes to tuck inside the sleeve is subject to many limitations, there is larger shortcoming to the comfort level of human body in its clothes, cannot meet the cutting requirement of the supporting variation of style of loose type clothes needs loose type armhole, needs loose type sleeve mountain BICEP width.
Summary of the invention
The object of the invention is to solve the sleeve mountain formative method of prior art existing time-consuming long, cannot meet precision rate request and the comfortable features of clothing poor problem of garment market to dress ornament conversion, provide a kind of cutting quick, can meet the JFT former figure tailoring method of garment market to the precision rate request of dress ornament conversion and the good garment sleeve mountain moulding of comfortable features of clothing.
Above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention is mainly solved by following technical proposals: the former figure tailoring method of JFT of a kind of garment sleeve mountain moulding, comprises the following steps:
A. according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion, determine the former number of clothes of armhole girth, sleeve length, chest measurement.The former number of clothes is to add and put loose measure and the definite clothing product specification value of style variable quantity based on human body raw measurement data, is comprising that clothes fashion changes and human comfort two factor greatly.Former figure tailoring method is newly-created tailoring basic theory, and its strong adaptability is used widely, relates to many positions in tailoring field.Such as, for arm rhizosphere, be two kinds of people of 46,48, China travelling trader can be written as 52 by the armhole girth them in shirt clothes order, in easy dress order, armhole girth is all written as to 54, the travelling trader of middle east is defined as 55 to I haven't seen you for ages this class people's shirt armhole girth, the armhole girth of easy dress is defined as to 58, but under not marking, the actual arm rhizosphere of the human body of specification is how many, clothes amplification quantity is how many.And prior art is the same with Chinese < < garment size standard > >, never establish armhole week long size, do not establish human body arm rhizosphere radix yet.Therefore, does is the style variable quantity comprising in each specification how many in the face of a clothes order? not had can be for the numerical basis of separated answer.So, prior art first draws the dress model plate cut out without style name, draw fundamental mode figure be less than clothing specification, be greater than human body surface, without the clothes numerical value of style variable quantity, dream up out, being the numerical value that lacks clothes two large factors, is to cause dress model plate, fundamental mode figure to lack one of key factor of practical use.And former figure tailoring method is according to the former number design of armhole girth cutting sleeve line, can meets various crowds' dressing habit and the style of clothes is changed and comfort level demand.
B. establishing sleeve mountain baseline code name is J, and BICEP line code name is F, and sleeve mountain moulding guide line code name is T, determines that the length of sleeve mountain baseline J is armhole girth/2.
C. determine: the fit type BICEP of chest measurement * 0.2=width, before and after determining, the overlapping picture of sleeve sheet is cut out, drawing the material left and right doubling of cutting out sleeve sheet, on broken line, determine sleeve length line, the upper extreme point of sleeve length line is the high point in sleeve mountain, according to the sleeve mountain flat picture of the high some BICEP wide line vertical with sleeve length line, by BICEP wide line end, drawn and sleeve length line parallel and isometric BICEP line, by holding picture cuff line connection sleeve length line lower end under BICEP line level with both hands.The fit type BICEP of the chest measurement * 0.2=width here, refers to the BICEP of standard type clothes fashion, and the BICEP width of loose type or close-fitting type clothes can change on this basis suitably increase and decrease according to clothes fashion.
D. by the high point in sleeve mountain, aim at BICEP line and tiltedly draw sleeve mountain baseline, by the intersection point of sleeve mountain baseline and the BICEP line mountain line endpoints that is defined as tucking inside the sleeve, sleeve mountain line endpoints is high for sleeve mountain to the vertical range of BICEP wide line, from sleeve mountain line endpoints to sleeve length line drawing, goes out the sleeve mountain bottom line parallel with BICEP wide line.This is actually the high automatically definite method in a kind of sleeve mountain, the variation of this sleeve mountain height, be the ratio of armhole girth and BICEP, if armhole girth and BICEP width are determined according to loose type clothes fashion, BICEP line F just can be high with the sleeve mountain of sleeve mountain baseline J formation loose type, otherwise the sleeve mountain that can form close-fitting type is high, this process is calculated or empirical value without relying on, and needn't solve the high value in sleeve mountain in practical operation.
E. at sleeve 1/3 length place, baseline top, mountain, upwards draw the sleeve mountain moulding guide line vertical with BICEP wide line, by the mid point of the sleeve mountain moulding guide line mountain moulding point that is defined as tucking inside the sleeve, from sleeve mountain height, put sleeve mountain moulding point, smoothly drew sleeve mountain line to baseline bottom, mountain 1/3 length of tucking inside the sleeve, and along sleeve mountain baseline draw to the crossing sleeve mountain line endpoints of BICEP line, during setting-out, keep upper and lower two-part sleeve mountain line in smoothing junction, complete thus the moulding of sleeve mountain line.Because sleeve mountain line is in the technique with the stitching of armhole perimeter line, sleeve mountain line needs corresponding loose amount, sleeve mountain line amount crooked and that exceed the length of base equals this and loosely measures, so, this sleeve mountain baseline develops and comes from the former number of armhole girth, very high by sleeve mountain its accuracy of line of this sleeve mountain control line.
F. determine cuff width=2/3 BICEP width, from sleeve mountain line endpoints to cuff line 2/3, draw sleeve bottom line, according to sleeve mountain line, sleeve bottom line, cuff line is put seam cutting sleeve sheet, then, overlapping sleeve sheet left and right is opened, the left side is as rear sleeve sheet, the right is as front sleeve piece, the line length place, sleeve mountain that determines the high point 2/3 in distance sleeve mountain on the sleeve mountain line of front sleeve piece is that maximum prune node carries out arc pruning to line inner side, sleeve mountain, its maximum pruning rate is the 0.04* sleeve mountain length of base, during pruning, keep upper and lower two-part sleeve mountain line in smoothing junction, pruning completes the profiled sheeting that obtains whole sleeve sheet.Due to BICEP line and sleeve length line parallel and equal length, by the method for 2/3 BICEP width, determine that cuff width size is more convenient, easily clothes fashion changing factor is delivered to cuff from BICEP part always, thereby makes clothes comfortable and easy to wear.The pruning at line 2/3 place, foresleeve mountain is here further to prune on the basis of former foresleeve mountain line and rear sleeve mountain line symmetry, and this pruning result is: the front sleeve piece at this position is less than rear sleeve sheet.Because of the arm motion for people, at this position, to the pulling force of sleeve sheet, be the sheet of tucking inside the sleeve after front sleeve piece is less than, it is that before and after making, sleeve mountain line all adapts to the requirement of human body to the comfortableness of clothes that object is pruned at sleeve mountain line 2/3 place of front sleeve piece, improved the comfort level of clothes, actual pruning rate is no more than 0.04 times of the sleeve mountain length of base conventionally, its lower end of curved line after pruning extends to sleeve mountain line endpoints, and Yu Yuanxiu mountain, upper end line is in smoothing junction.The pruning rate is here the maximum deviation amount of circular arc and its string of a musical instrument, the i.e. distance of circular arc line mid point and mid-chord.
The BICEP width of loose type or close-fitting type clothes changes and to add and subtract on the basis of the fit type BICEP of chest measurement * 0.2=width according to clothes fashion, loose type BICEP width be chest measurement * 0.21 to chest measurement * 0.23, close-fitting type BICEP width is that chest measurement * 0.17 is to chest measurement * 0.19.Loose type or close-fitting type BICEP width are fixed according to factors such as clothes fashion variation, dress materials and dressing habits, in the situation that also not determining these factors, just can not make concrete final conclusion for the decrement that adds of loose type, close-fitting type BICEP width, can only be its according to fit type BICEP width as the suitable increase and decrease of reference point, conventionally loose type BICEP width be chest measurement * 0.21 to selecting between chest measurement * 0.23, close-fitting type BICEP width is that chest measurement * 0.17 is to selecting between chest measurement * 0.19.
As preferably, in steps d, determine that sleeve mountain line endpoints is high to vertical range=sleeve mountain of BICEP wide line, no matter be loose type or close-fitting type BICEP width, can be on the diverse location of BICEP line by the rising of sleeve baseline lower end, mountain or decline and determine sleeve mountain line endpoints, obtain thus with clothes fashion template, with the suitable sleeve mountain moulding of armhole metamorphosis.
By method of the present invention, can draw and be cut into template as the model of batch production, also can on cloth, directly cut out out clothes, garment piece of the present invention can be the material that is made into template, can be also the cloth of making clothes.In addition, in cut-out method of the present invention, cross three definite strokes and dots cut lines, can adopt the level and smooth setting-out method that apparel industry is traditional, also can adopt the circular arc line technique of painting of 3, all the other setting-outs (or cutting out) method all adopts the Smoothing Method For Drawing that apparel industry is traditional; The former figure tailoring method of JFT that the present invention names is in order to distinguish with other tailoring method for clothes.Flat picture of the present invention, refers to that horizontal direction setting-out is perpendicular to sleeve length line drawing line; In the junction of two lines, the present invention all adopts mode in smoothing junction; When the present invention relates to length of curve and measuring, all adopt apparel industry general can be crooked dip stick measure length, the not marked long measure of the present invention is centimetre.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows: existing time-consuming precision rate request and the comfortable features of clothing poor problem of garment market to dress ornament conversion of growing, cannot meet of sleeve mountain formative method that has solved prior art, method cutting of the present invention is quick, can meet the precision rate request of garment market to dress ornament conversion, comfortable features of clothing is good, is worthy of popularization.
Accompanying drawing explanation
Fig. 1 is a kind of schematic diagram of garment sleeve of the present invention mountain moulding cutting-out method.
In figure: 1. sleeve length line, 2, the high point in sleeve mountain, 3, BICEP wide line, 4, cuff line, 5, sleeve mountain line endpoints, 6, sleeve mountain bottom line, 7, sleeve mountain moulding point, 8, sleeve mountain line, 9, sleeve bottom line, 10, maximum prune node, J sleeve mountain baseline, F, BICEP line, T, sleeve mountain moulding guide line.
The specific embodiment
Below by embodiment, and by reference to the accompanying drawings, technical scheme of the present invention is described in further detail.
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, the former figure tailoring method of JFT of a kind of garment sleeve mountain moulding, comprises the following steps:
A. according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion, determine the former number of clothes of armhole girth, sleeve length, chest measurement;
B. establishing sleeve mountain baseline code name is J, and BICEP line code name is F, and sleeve mountain moulding guide line code name is T, determines that the length of sleeve mountain baseline J is armhole girth/2;
C. determine: the fit type BICEP of chest measurement * 0.2=width, before and after determining, the overlapping picture of sleeve sheet is cut out, drawing the material left and right doubling of cutting out sleeve sheet, on broken line, determine sleeve length line 1, the upper extreme point of sleeve length line is the high point 2 in sleeve mountain, according to the sleeve mountain flat picture of the high some BICEP wide line 3 vertical with sleeve length line, by BICEP wide line end, drawn and sleeve length line parallel and isometric BICEP line F, by holding picture cuff line 4 connection sleeve length line lower ends under BICEP line level with both hands;
D. by the high point in sleeve mountain, aim at BICEP line and tiltedly draw sleeve mountain baseline J, by the intersection point of sleeve mountain baseline and the BICEP line mountain line endpoints 5 that is defined as tucking inside the sleeve, sleeve mountain line endpoints is high for sleeve mountain to the vertical range of BICEP wide line, from sleeve mountain line endpoints to sleeve length line drawing, goes out the sleeve mountain bottom line 6 parallel with BICEP wide line;
E. at sleeve 1/3 length place, baseline top, mountain, upwards draw the sleeve mountain moulding guide line T vertical with BICEP wide line, by the mid point of the sleeve mountain moulding guide line mountain moulding point 7 that is defined as tucking inside the sleeve, from sleeve mountain height, put sleeve mountain moulding point, smoothly drew sleeve mountain line 8 to baseline bottom, mountain 1/3 length of tucking inside the sleeve, and along sleeve mountain baseline draw to the crossing sleeve mountain line endpoints of BICEP line, during setting-out, keep upper and lower two-part sleeve mountain line in smoothing junction, complete thus the moulding of sleeve mountain line;
F. determine cuff width=2/3 BICEP width, from sleeve mountain line endpoints to cuff line 2/3, draw sleeve bottom line 9, according to sleeve mountain line, sleeve bottom line, cuff line is put seam cutting sleeve sheet, then, overlapping sleeve sheet left and right is opened, the left side is as rear sleeve sheet, the right is as front sleeve piece, the line length place, sleeve mountain that determines the high point 2/3 in distance sleeve mountain on the sleeve mountain line of front sleeve piece is that maximum prune node 10 carries out arc pruning to line inner side, sleeve mountain, its maximum pruning rate is the 0.04* sleeve mountain length of base, during pruning, keep upper and lower two-part sleeve mountain line in smoothing junction, pruning completes the profiled sheeting that obtains whole sleeve sheet.
The clothes of embodiment 2 are loose type or close-fitting type clothes, and BICEP width changes and increases on the basis of the fit type BICEP of chest measurement * 0.2=width according to clothes fashion, and its BICEP width is chest measurement * 0.22, and all the other are identical with embodiment 1.
The clothes of embodiment 3 are close-fitting type clothes, and BICEP width changes and reduces on the basis of the fit type BICEP of chest measurement * 0.2=width according to clothes fashion, and its BICEP width is chest measurement * 0.18, and all the other are identical with embodiment 1.
Determine that sleeve mountain line endpoints is high to vertical range=sleeve mountain of BICEP wide line, no matter be loose type or close-fitting type BICEP width, can be on the diverse location of BICEP line by the rising of sleeve baseline lower end, mountain or decline and determine sleeve mountain line endpoints, obtain thus with clothes fashion template, with the suitable sleeve mountain moulding of armhole metamorphosis.
How much all applicable method of the present invention no matter armhole girth, BICEP size is, there is the simple feature such as accurate of definite method easy to operate, sleeve mountain moulding, solved the sleeve mountain formative method of prior art existing time-consuming long, cannot meet the problem of garment market to the precision rate request of dress ornament conversion, realize a kind of cutting quick, can meet the JFT former figure tailoring method of garment market to a kind of garment sleeve mountain moulding of the precision rate request of dress ornament conversion.The present invention does not want the contrast of another paper cutting board and estimates, according to the former number of clothes of armhole girth and chest measurement specification, just can obtain JFT data, can determine the sleeve mountain moulding of various clothes fashion types needs, is a kind of simple and practical sleeve mountain moulding cutting-out method.
Claims (3)
1. the former figure tailoring method of the JFT of garment sleeve mountain moulding, is characterized in that comprising the following steps:
A. according to anthropometric data and predetermined clothes fashion, determine the former number of clothes of armhole girth, sleeve length, chest measurement;
B. establishing sleeve mountain baseline code name is J, and BICEP line code name is F, and sleeve mountain moulding guide line code name is T, determines that the length of sleeve mountain baseline J is armhole girth/2;
C. determine: the fit type BICEP of chest measurement * 0.2=width, before and after determining, the overlapping picture of sleeve sheet is cut out, drawing the material left and right doubling of cutting out sleeve sheet, on broken line, determine sleeve length line (1), the upper extreme point of sleeve length line is the sleeve high point in mountain (2), according to the sleeve mountain flat picture of the high some BICEP wide line (3) vertical with sleeve length line, by BICEP wide line end, drawn and sleeve length line parallel and isometric BICEP line (F), by holding picture cuff line (4) connection sleeve length line lower end under BICEP line level with both hands;
D. by the high point in sleeve mountain, aim at BICEP line and tiltedly draw sleeve mountain baseline (J), by the intersection point of sleeve mountain baseline and the BICEP line mountain line endpoints (5) that is defined as tucking inside the sleeve, sleeve mountain line endpoints is high for sleeve mountain to the vertical range of BICEP wide line, from sleeve mountain line endpoints to sleeve length line drawing, goes out the sleeve mountain bottom line (6) parallel with BICEP wide line;
E. at sleeve 1/3 length place, baseline top, mountain, upwards draw the sleeve mountain moulding guide line (T) vertical with BICEP wide line, by the mid point of the sleeve mountain moulding guide line mountain moulding point (7) that is defined as tucking inside the sleeve, from sleeve mountain height, put sleeve mountain moulding point, smoothly drew sleeve mountain line (8) to baseline bottom, mountain 1/3 length of tucking inside the sleeve, and along sleeve mountain baseline draw to the crossing sleeve mountain line endpoints of BICEP line, during setting-out, keep upper and lower two-part sleeve mountain line in smoothing junction, complete thus the moulding of sleeve mountain line;
F. determine cuff width=2/3 BICEP width, from sleeve mountain line endpoints to cuff line 2/3, draw sleeve bottom line (9), according to sleeve mountain line, sleeve bottom line, cuff line is put seam cutting sleeve sheet, then, overlapping sleeve sheet left and right is opened, the left side is as rear sleeve sheet, the right is as front sleeve piece, the line length place, sleeve mountain that determines the high point 2/3 in distance sleeve mountain on the sleeve mountain line of front sleeve piece is that maximum prune node (10) carries out arc pruning to line inner side, sleeve mountain, its maximum pruning rate is the 0.04* sleeve mountain length of base, during pruning, keep upper and lower two-part sleeve mountain line in smoothing junction, pruning completes the profiled sheeting that obtains whole sleeve sheet.
2. the former figure tailoring method of JFT of garment sleeve according to claim 1 mountain moulding, the BICEP width that it is characterized in that loose type or close-fitting type clothes changes and adds and subtracts on the basis of the fit type BICEP of chest measurement * 0.2=width according to clothes fashion, loose type BICEP width be chest measurement * 0.21 to chest measurement * 0.23, close-fitting type BICEP width is that chest measurement * 0.17 is to chest measurement * 0.19.
3. the former figure tailoring method of JFT of garment sleeve according to claim 1 and 2 mountain moulding, it is characterized in that determining that sleeve mountain line endpoints is high to vertical range=sleeve mountain of BICEP wide line, no matter be loose type or close-fitting type BICEP width, can be on the diverse location of BICEP line by the rising of sleeve baseline lower end, mountain or decline and determine sleeve mountain line endpoints, obtain thus with clothes fashion template, with the suitable sleeve mountain moulding of armhole metamorphosis.
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| CN201310228104.3A CN103610251B (en) | 2013-06-08 | 2013-06-08 | JFT original number tailoring method of clothing sleeve top shape |
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| CN201310228104.3A CN103610251B (en) | 2013-06-08 | 2013-06-08 | JFT original number tailoring method of clothing sleeve top shape |
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Cited By (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN113057391A (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2021-07-02 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
| CN113749339A (en) * | 2021-08-23 | 2021-12-07 | 周斌 | Plate making method for flexible and loose body and sleeve clothes |
| CN114246380A (en) * | 2021-12-24 | 2022-03-29 | 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 | Pattern structure process for increasing sleeve movement amount of shirt |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| CN113057391A (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2021-07-02 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
| CN113057391B (en) * | 2021-03-31 | 2023-01-24 | 黎明职业大学 | Method for manufacturing Huoding-Po clothing |
| CN113749339A (en) * | 2021-08-23 | 2021-12-07 | 周斌 | Plate making method for flexible and loose body and sleeve clothes |
| CN114246380A (en) * | 2021-12-24 | 2022-03-29 | 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 | Pattern structure process for increasing sleeve movement amount of shirt |
| CN114246380B (en) * | 2021-12-24 | 2023-10-27 | 江苏红豆实业股份有限公司 | Shaping structure process for increasing sleeve activity of shirt |
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| CN103610251B (en) | 2015-04-22 |
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