CN105433488B - Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes - Google Patents
Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes Download PDFInfo
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- CN105433488B CN105433488B CN201510786115.2A CN201510786115A CN105433488B CN 105433488 B CN105433488 B CN 105433488B CN 201510786115 A CN201510786115 A CN 201510786115A CN 105433488 B CN105433488 B CN 105433488B
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- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000005520 cutting process Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 230000006378 damage Effects 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 208000035824 paresthesia Diseases 0.000 claims description 3
- 230000002035 prolonged effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 210000003739 neck Anatomy 0.000 description 111
- 230000000630 rising effect Effects 0.000 description 6
- 238000010586 diagram Methods 0.000 description 3
- 241001269238 Data Species 0.000 description 2
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 2
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 230000009286 beneficial effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006467 substitution reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41H—APPLIANCES OR METHODS FOR MAKING CLOTHES, e.g. FOR DRESS-MAKING OR FOR TAILORING, NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- A41H3/00—Patterns for cutting-out; Methods of drafting or marking-out such patterns, e.g. on the cloth
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Abstract
The invention discloses an original-value designing and clipping method for determining the fixed-value-free crimp amount of a closed collar of a piece of clothes. Relevant specification original values including collar middle width and the like are determined according to a garment style, a collar base line is determined according to the collar middle width, and the fixed-value-free crimp amount is obtained. The problem that the position designing method in the prior art consumes longer time, cannot meet the requirements for the accuracy and speed of garment style change in the garment market and enables garment comfort to be poor is solved. The accurate, simple and quick original-value designing effect enabling the garment comfort to be good is achieved.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to dress designing manufacture method, is changed based on clothes fashion and human body comfort more particularly, to a kind of
The clothing of demand are closed the door the former number design cutting-out method that neck warps without definite value.
Background technology：
Garment collar piece style is mainly closed the door neck, two big class of turndown collar, folded door head do not follow it is leading rout up be referred to as close the door
Neck.Neck of closing the door leads the width of piece, style shape can be independently changeable, how accurately to determine that bottom collar rises according to neck different in width of closing the door
The amount of sticking up, becomes a knotty problem of clothing.Current most representational Japanese prototyping：The fixation only estimated by rule of thumb
Value, the neck rising quantity of closing the door that width is not waited, style type is different cannot directly determine do not have unified calculating according to clothes fashion
Method of cutting out, it is impossible to solve the problem.Therefore prior art is needed by test of many times just in clothing close the door neck tailoring process
Can determine that neck rising quantity of closing the door, the time-consuming longer, problem that cutting precision is not high and comfortable features of clothing is poor of generally existing.
Publication date is on June 11st, 2003, and the Chinese patent document of Publication No. CN1422567A discloses a kind of clothing
Conventional turning over is refuted, rolls over and refute, bend the method for cutting out for refuting lapel, be with collar rear center size and neck side parallel to CB
Neck shape it is equal sized for principle, directly the length dimension from before and after collar needed for periphery is foundation, according to refuting broken line and predecessor
Neck shape, the relation of collar hole, find the corresponding point being connected with rear neck, the length of collar hole size, rear collar after being determined with center of circle method
And rear center's size.A kind of computing formula of rear collar length is provided, can be according to the top collar width at neck side, neck waist and neck width chi
Very little substitution can be obtained, and be a kind of straightforward method.But said method is not suitable for closing the door the design cutting of neck, it is impossible to meet clothes
The problem of precision, rate request and comfortable features of clothing difference that dress market is converted to dress ornament.
The content of the invention
The purpose of the present invention is to solve the neck rising quantity of closing the door that prior art is closed the door existing for neck tailoring process in clothing
Directly accurately cannot determine, dress designing it is time-consuming it is longer, cannot meet precision rate request that garment market converted to dress ornament and
The problem of comfortable features of clothing difference, there is provided a kind of cutting is quick, can meet garment market closes the door to dress ornament the essence of neck style-changeable
Degree rate request and a kind of good clothing of comfortable features of clothing neck of closing the door designs cutting-out method without the former number that definite value warps.
What the above-mentioned technical problem of the present invention was mainly addressed by following technical proposals：One kind closes the door neck without definite value
Warp clothing original number design cutting-out method, comprises the following steps：
A. the numerical value of wide, leading wide and folded gate-width in wide, lower neck in upper neck is determined according to clothes fashion.The step is root
The corresponding clothing initial datas such as the width of collar different parts, folded gate-width degree are determined according to clothes fashion and specification；These data
It is that designer is predetermined according to different clothing specifications.
Design clothing must require to determine that the initial data of gauge type and region of interest, i.e. clothing are former according to clothes fashion
Number；The present invention pertains only to the clothing original number for leading piece and folded door position；Neck piece has a difference of lapel, stand-up collar, and lapel routs up part
It is referred to as upper to lead, part is not routed up for lower neck or lead seat,（Such as close the door neck overcoat）, the only lower neck piece for leading, not going up neck is referred to as vertical
Neck；Closing the door, possessing up and down for neck is separating, have what is do not separated, and this depends primarily on customer requirement, and the present invention is described
Do not separate；Wide, folded gate-width wide in neck, leading be not be drawn as how much can, but will be according to predetermined original number
According to design.
After pattern design is completed in front and back, door line is folded parallel to line drawing in front clothing according to the width value of folded door, it is determined that closing the door
Button point；The different clothes fashion such as single-breasted, double-breasted, needs different folded gate-widths, and the technology of the present invention is not limited to certain
A kind of style, the position of button point of closing the door routinely determined on the front cut pieces that design is completed, here front clothing center line and folded door line
The distance between as folded gate-width degree.
Based on collar-shoulder point（That is front cut pieces collar peak）To the right（That is clothing center line direction forward）Flat picture control over-lapping stitch, controls over-lapping stitch
Wide * 0.8 in length=lower neck；Here flat picture refers to the horizontal setting-out in plane graph.
Clothing center line upper extreme point was starting point in the past, to control over-lapping stitch right-hand member strokes and dots collar line, the upper end of collar line was upwardly extended,
Which extends the length of segment length=rear collar line, from the extension upper extreme point is for starting point and lower section is drawn to the left perpendicular to the extension
Control baseline, it is wide in width+lower neck in the control length of base=upper neck.
Line drawing neck base datum line in front clothing is mutually switched to by control baseline lower-left end and front neck contour, by neck base datum line bottom righthand side
Neck baseline is determined to left upper end, lead the length of base=front neck contour+rear collar line.
Arise from neck baseline upper left point, draw neck center line to upper right side perpendicular to neck baseline, wide * 2 in neck midline length=upper neck,
Be coupled with collar line, fold line for lapel drawn according to the flexibility of style requirement to over-lapping stitch right endpoint is controlled at neck center line midpoint；Along neck center line
Midpoint down determines wide lower extreme point in lower neck, according to the flexibility that style is required, by wide lower extreme point in lower neck to front neck contour
It is tangent at 1/3 length of top, it is then Chong Die with front neck contour, terminate in front clothing center line upper end strokes and dots bottom collar line, bottom collar line left upper end
It is to warp line without definite value to neck baseline.It is collar rising quantity that i.e. bottom collar line left upper end extremely leads the distance between baseline.Here it is vertical
Neck center line is drawn in neck baseline, can ensure that neck center line with neck baseline into 90 degree of right angles.
To leading line drawing, stopper line, upper neck stopper line is led to press concrete clothes fashion with leading wire shaped by neck center line upper end
It is determined that.
Neck piece figure is replicated, net neck model is cut out, it is in the past on the basis of collar line value+rear collar line value, left in bottom collar line
End determines that bottom collar line, because of the long amount being bent to form, deducts long amount according to bottom collar line and draws accurate neck center line.
Material of piece or so is led to lead center line to be placed under net neck model, lead center line to be aligned accurately to folding preparation cutting clinking
Neck center line, needing plus tape edge according to manufacturing process then according to tape edge line clipping, that is, obtain the neck clinking up and down that left and right is launched
Neck piece.
In above-mentioned steps h, replicate, cut out net neck example edition, it is to avoid based on shoulder point cutting garment piece to leading piece design result
Destruction, clinking neck piece base is accurately sutured with garment piece collar, the neck that makes to close the door produces corresponding fan quantity of margin, neck in satisfaction
Width gives people the comfortableness demand at body shoulder, back.
The lower bottom collar line interlude arc that warps is stretched, upper neck seam is presented S formula fan quantity of margin, and this exactly goes up neck and turns over
After purgation required for human body comfort；Upper neck is wider, and the quantity of margin is more big, and the lower bottom collar line interlude radian that warps more will
Greatly, this is the basic norm closed the door and lead design；The former number design cutting-out method of the present invention：Lower bottom collar line interlude warp radian=on
In neck, wide original numerical value in wide original numerical value-lower neck, meets basic norm, simply simply instead of computing formula by design procedure e, f,
Instead of the fixed value estimated by rule of thumb to warp.
Method for designing of the present invention can be accurately determined according to the pre-determined clothing initial data such as wide specification in garment collar
The neck rising quantity of closing the door of different in width, without solving the value that warps, and corresponding quantity of margin can be given meet human body comfort demand；
Size used all is passed through to be calculated by clothing original number, without artificial empirical estimating composition, method of cutting out simple and fast.In addition,
The present invention is not related to other positions of clothing and designs or improve, and unspecified part of the invention is pressed at the method for prior art
Reason, denomination of invention and code name are intended merely to the convenient difference with other method of cutting out.
The invention has the beneficial effects as follows：Solve prior art to close the door closing the door and lead existing for neck tailoring process in clothing
The amount of sticking up directly cannot determine, dress designing it is time-consuming it is longer, cannot meet precision rate request that garment market converted to dress ornament and
The problem of comfortable features of clothing difference, there is provided a kind of cutting is quick, can meet garment market closes the door to dress ornament the essence of neck style-changeable
Degree rate request and a kind of good clothing of comfortable features of clothing neck of closing the door designs cutting-out method without the former number that definite value warps.
Description of the drawings
Fig. 1 is that clothing of the present invention neck of closing the door designs a kind of cutting schematic diagram of cutting-out method without the former number that definite value warps.
Fig. 2 is a kind of schematic diagram of the net neck model that the present invention cuts out.
Fig. 3 is that clothing of the present invention are closed the door a kind of schematic diagram of neck.
In figure：1. clothing center line before, 2. folds a line, and button point of 3. closing the door, 4. collar-shoulder point are 5. controlled over-lapping stitch, 6. collar line, 7. controlled
Baseline, 8. front neck contour 9. lead baseline, 10. lead center line, 11. fold line for lapels, 12. bottom collar lines, and 13. warp line without definite value, 14. necks
Head line, leads stopper line on 15., collar line after N., 16. net neck models, 17. tape edges, about 18. neck clinking neck pieces, and 10 '. it is accurate
Neck center line, 12 '. long amount.
Specific embodiment
Below by embodiment, and accompanying drawing is combined, technical scheme is described in further detail.
Embodiment 1
In embodiment 1 as shown in Figure 1, a kind of clothing are closed the door the former number design cutting-out method that neck warps without definite value, including
Following steps：
A. the numerical value of wide, leading wide and folded gate-width in wide, lower neck in upper neck is determined according to clothes fashion；The step is root
The corresponding clothing initial datas such as the width of collar different parts, folded gate-width degree are determined according to clothes fashion and specification；These data
It is that designer is predetermined according to different clothing specifications.
After pattern design is completed in front and back, folded door line 2 is drawn parallel to front clothing center line 1 according to the width value of folded door, it is determined that closing
Doorknob button point 3；The close the door position of button point routinely determined on the front cut pieces that complete of design, here front clothing center line and folded door line
The distance between as folded gate-width degree.
Based on collar-shoulder point 4（That is the peak of front cut pieces collar）To the right（That is clothing center line direction forward）Flat picture control over-lapping stitch 5, control
Wide * 0.8 in over-lapping stitch length=lower neck.
Clothing center line upper extreme point was starting point in the past, to control over-lapping stitch right-hand member strokes and dots collar line 6, the upper end of collar line was prolonged upwards
Stretch, its extend segment length=rear collar line N length, from the extension upper extreme point be starting point and perpendicular to the extension to left down
Control baseline 7 is drawn by side, wide in width+lower neck in the control length of base=upper neck.
Line drawing neck base datum line in front clothing is mutually switched to by control baseline lower-left end and front neck contour 8, by neck base datum line bottom right
Hold to left upper end and determine neck baseline 9, lead the length of base=front neck contour+rear collar line.
Arise from neck baseline upper left point, draw neck center line 10, in neck midline length=upper neck width * to upper right side perpendicular to neck baseline
2, be coupled with collar line, fold line for lapel 11 drawn according to the flexibility of style requirement to over-lapping stitch right endpoint is controlled at neck center line midpoint；Along neck
Center line midpoint down determines wide lower extreme point in lower neck, according to the flexibility that style is required, by wide lower extreme point in lower neck to front collar
It is tangent at 1/3 length of top of line, it is then Chong Die with front neck contour, terminate in front clothing center line upper end strokes and dots bottom collar line 12, bottom collar line
Left upper end is to warp line 13 without definite value to baseline is led；It is collar rising quantity that i.e. bottom collar line left upper end extremely leads the distance between baseline.
Neck stopper line 15 is drawn by neck center line upper end to leading line 14, upper neck stopper line presses concrete clothing with leading wire shaped
Style determines.
Neck piece figure is replicated, net neck model 16 is cut out, in the past on the basis of collar line value+rear collar line value, in bottom collar line
Left end determines that bottom collar line, because of the long amount 12 ' being bent to form, deducts long amount according to bottom collar line and draws accurate neck center line 10 '.
Material of piece or so is led to lead center line to be placed under net neck model, lead center line to be aligned accurately to folding preparation cutting clinking
Neck center line, needing plus tape edge 17 according to manufacturing process then according to tape edge line clipping, that is, obtain the neck hair up and down that left and right is launched
Seam neck piece 18（See Fig. 2）.
In above-mentioned steps h, replicate, cut out net neck example edition, it is to avoid based on shoulder point cutting garment piece to leading piece design result
Destruction, clinking neck piece base is accurately sutured with garment piece collar, the neck that makes to close the door produces corresponding fan quantity of margin, neck in satisfaction
Width gives people the comfortableness demand at body shoulder, back（See Fig. 3）.
Technical scheme directly accurately can be determined according to the pre-determined clothing initial data of width etc. in neck
Close the door neck baseline, reach and warp without definite value, acquisition is closed the door, and neck is due, the fan quantity of margin that human body comfort needs.Solve
Prior art clothing close the door neck tailoring process existing for it is time-consuming longer, the precision that garment market is converted to dress ornament cannot be met
The problem of rate request and comfortable features of clothing difference.Realizing a kind of cutting is quick, can meet garment market, dress ornament closed the door neck
The good one kind of the precision rate request of style-changeable and comfortable features of clothing close the door neck without definite value warp clothing original number design cutting-out method.
Claims (2)
1. a kind of clothing are closed the door the former number design cutting-out method that neck warps without definite value, it is characterised in that comprise the following steps：
A. the numerical value of wide, leading wide and folded gate-width in wide, lower neck in upper neck is determined according to clothes fashion；
B. after before and after, pattern design completes, according to the width value of folded door parallel to front clothing center line（1）Draw folded door line（2）, it is determined that
Close the door button point（3）；
C. it is based on collar-shoulder point（4）Flat picture control over-lapping stitch to the right（5）, wide * 0.8 in control over-lapping stitch length=lower neck；
D. before, clothing center line upper extreme point is starting point, to control over-lapping stitch right-hand member strokes and dots collar line（6）, the upper end of collar line is prolonged upwards
Stretch, which extends segment length=rear collar line（N）Length, from the extension upper extreme point be starting point and perpendicular to the extension to the left
Draw control baseline in lower section（7）, it is wide in width+lower neck in the control length of base=upper neck；
E. by control baseline lower-left end and front neck contour（8）Line drawing neck base datum line in front clothing is switched to mutually, by neck base datum line bottom right
Hold to left upper end and determine neck baseline（9）, lead the length of base=front neck contour+rear collar line；
F. arise from neck baseline upper left point, draw neck center line to upper right side perpendicular to neck baseline（10）, width * in neck midline length=upper neck
2, be coupled with collar line, fold line for lapel drawn according to the flexibility of style requirement to over-lapping stitch right endpoint is controlled at neck center line midpoint（11）；Edge
Neck center line midpoint down determines wide lower extreme point in lower neck, according to the flexibility that style is required, by wide lower extreme point in lower neck to front neck
It is tangent at 1/3 length of top of contour, it is then Chong Die with front neck contour, terminate in front clothing center line upper end strokes and dots bottom collar line（12）, neck
Bottom line left upper end is to warp line without definite value to baseline is led（13）；
G. by neck center line upper end to leading line（14）Draw neck stopper line（15）, upper neck stopper line is with leading wire shaped by concrete clothes
Dress style determines；
H. neck piece figure is replicated, net neck model is cut out（16）, in the past on the basis of collar line value+rear collar line value, in bottom collar line
Left end determines bottom collar line because of the long amount being bent to form（12’）, long amount is deducted according to bottom collar line draw accurate neck center line（10’）；
I. material of cutting clinking neck piece or so will be prepared, and to folding, neck center line is placed under net neck model, neck center line alignment is accurate leads
Center line, needing plus tape edge according to manufacturing process（17）, then according to tape edge line clipping, that is, obtain the neck hair up and down that left and right is launched
Seam neck piece（18）.
2. clothing according to claim 1 are closed the door the former number design cutting-out method that neck warps without definite value, it is characterised in that step h
In：Replicate, cut out net neck example edition, it is to avoid based on destruction of the shoulder point cutting garment piece to neck piece design result, make clinking neck piece bottom
Side accurately sutured with garment piece collar, the neck that makes to close the door produces corresponding fan quantity of margin, leads width to give people body shoulder, back in satisfaction
Comfortableness demand.
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| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| CN201510786115.2A CN105433488B (en) | 2015-11-16 | 2015-11-16 | Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes |
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| CN201510786115.2A CN105433488B (en) | 2015-11-16 | 2015-11-16 | Original-value designing and clipping method for determining fixed-value-free crimp amount of closed collar of clothes |
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| CN105433488B true CN105433488B (en) | 2017-04-12 |
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Families Citing this family (3)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| CN107411207B (en) * | 2017-07-11 | 2018-12-18 | 胡亨有 | Clothes connect collar NG original number design cutting-out method |
| CN108681642A (en) * | 2018-05-18 | 2018-10-19 | 西京学院 | A kind of garment standing collar and preparation method thereof |
| CN109344441A (en) * | 2018-09-04 | 2019-02-15 | 四川大学 | One kind turning over stand-up collar three-dimensional digital method for customizing |
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| SU933070A2 (en) * | 1980-10-30 | 1982-06-07 | Московский Ордена Трудового Красного Знамени Технологический Институт Легкой Промышленности | Man suit collar template construction method |
| CN1098610A (en) * | 1993-08-09 | 1995-02-15 | 杨海峰 | The formation of garment collar type and changing skill |
| CN1422567A (en) * | 2001-11-25 | 2003-06-11 | 葛俊康 | Cutting-out method for lapel |
| CN1762270A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining flat collar size of clothes with collar stand |
| RU2295898C2 (en) * | 2005-03-17 | 2007-03-27 | Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования "Ивановская государственная текстильная академия" | Method for plotting of collar pattern |
Family Cites Families (1)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPS5217948A (en) * | 1975-07-30 | 1977-02-10 | Reiko Sakuma | Collar drawing method |
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2015
- 2015-11-16 CN CN201510786115.2A patent/CN105433488B/en active Active
Patent Citations (6)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| SU858738A2 (en) * | 1979-07-13 | 1981-08-30 | Центральный Научно-Исследовательский Институт Швейной Промышленности | Method of constructing pattern of man suit collar |
| SU933070A2 (en) * | 1980-10-30 | 1982-06-07 | Московский Ордена Трудового Красного Знамени Технологический Институт Легкой Промышленности | Man suit collar template construction method |
| CN1098610A (en) * | 1993-08-09 | 1995-02-15 | 杨海峰 | The formation of garment collar type and changing skill |
| CN1422567A (en) * | 2001-11-25 | 2003-06-11 | 葛俊康 | Cutting-out method for lapel |
| CN1762270A (en) * | 2004-10-20 | 2006-04-26 | 葛俊康 | Method for determining flat collar size of clothes with collar stand |
| RU2295898C2 (en) * | 2005-03-17 | 2007-03-27 | Государственное образовательное учреждение высшего профессионального образования "Ивановская государственная текстильная академия" | Method for plotting of collar pattern |
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Effective date of registration: 20210617 Address after: 528400 the 2 building of the giant Bang Industrial Park, Longsheng Road, Shaxi, Zhongshan, Guangdong. Patentee after: ZHONGSHAN JUBANG TECHNOLOGY GROUP Co.,Ltd. Address before: 322009 Yiwu Hushi fashion design studio, No.2, building 9, lanfan a, huzhai, Suxi Town, Yiwu City, Jinhua City, Zhejiang Province Patentee before: Hu Hengyou |